Thoughts about the new River Royale

[pacmom]

We have just returned from a delightful 2 weeks in France. We began with the 3 nite stay pre-cruise in Paris. We were met at the airport by a driver and were taken to the lovely Concorde St. Lazare. It was adjacent to the Gare St. Lazare, but no noise filtered thru to our room. The 2 Uniworld hostesses, Dorothy and Sylvie were very knowledgeable. They took us on a neighborhood walk to show us all the important things: atm, druggist, bus stops, metro stop and a few restaurants. We had already been on the Paris tour, Giverney and Versailles on a previous tour. Since there were only 10 of us, Sylvie took us to Lyon on the TVG. 2 hours later we were in Lyon and transported to the brand new River Royale. Our group were probably the last to board, so there was not a lot of time til the cruise briefing. Our cruise director was Christian Basil. We were his last of 5 groups. He was so good about telling us about the ship and her crew. He also gave the briefing for the next day, which would be Beaune--pronouned Bon and Chalon sur Saone. We sailed thru the nite to reach these destinations. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Dinner was served in the dining room, decore light blue and white, very pleasant. All meals were open seating with 4 tables of 8 on down to a few tables for 2. We all seemed willing to mix and mingle at meals. After dinner it was time to unpack---ample storage space. If your luggage didn't fit under the bed, it was stoed for you until the end of the cruise. Then off to the lounge for a drink and to listen to the hotel manager re: safety and some of the amenities on board. We spent time up on deck, then off to bed because we had an early start in the am.

Breakfast was served buffet style with a chef ready to make your eggs any way, very fresh. The usual, fruit, yogurt, hams and cheeses and of course the remarkable French pastry. The pastry chef was sooo good at his art.

This morning we boarded one of 2 coaches for the drive to Beaune. It took about 30 min. We then broke up into 4 small groups. Our guide was Paul--retired from the wine industry. The Hospice de Beaune was fascinating (I'm a retired nurse). The remarkable thing was it only closed about 20-30 years ago. The poor were well taken care of when ill. The museum shop offered some very nice items. We then went to a wine tasting--Don't know which I liked more the wine or the cheese puffs. We bought some wine and some of the mustards. We had a bit of free time, but I could have spent the entire day in that lovely village. Back on the bus to return to the ship for lunch. When we arrived back, we were greated by the hotel manager and some of his staff. They offered us peach iced tea and the most wonderful frozed wash clothes to apply to our necks and faces. Lunch was also served buffet style, with both hot and cold options. On the top shelf of the buffet, there was always a wonderful sandwich. Usually cut into small portions, so that you could take a taste. There were hot entrees and usually a pasta dish being wokked by the chef. Oh yes, the pastry chef was busy while we gone. Everything was cut in small portions--even the clafouti and cheesecake slices were only about an inch wide. After lunch we were free to wander Chalon-sur-Saone. Not as neat as Beaune, but interesting none the less. They do take siesta seriously--most shops don't open back up til 2pm.

The captain's reception and welcome dinner were that nite. We were introduced to the entire crew, except for the 2nd captain. He was busy guiding us back down stream to Lyon. Dress varied for the dinner--some of the men wore jackets, some only short sleeve dress shirts. The ladies looked very summery--some in the usual black, some in lighter weight linens. More time up on deck--in front of the wheelhouse only. The bridges are quite low on the Saone

Sat. am found us still sailing towards Lyon. They didn't serve breakfast. Instead a brunch buffet was served between 10am and 1pm. They had the usual early bird breakfast. Coffee, tea and pastries were served daily in the patio area in front of the dining room. Champagne, eggs benedict, various other items and . of course, the breads and pastries.

Sat. afternoon, we had a bus tour of Lyon with stops at the usual tourist places. We didn't stop long, because there would be a walking tour the next am.

Will stop for now----the dining experience at Paul Bocuse will fill tomorrow's installment. Pat

[cruisencrazy]

We are leaving for our Uniworld Cruise next week. Love reading what you wrote, especially Uniworld specific things. Can't wait for your next installment! Glad you had such a great time!

[pacmom]

Phase 2-----Sat. nite dinner on board. The bartenders on board were so right for their jobs. Oliver was great--name a drink and he could make it. The day we left the boat, he went on vacation for a few weeks.. Veronika the othe bartender was a delight. Her smile lit the room. Sun. am , time for the walking tour of Lyon. The heat was building. We had the same guide, Mary, as on our bus tour of the city. We stopped at church--missed the remainder of the guided tour. There are covered passages that were used by the silk merchants to keep the silk from the elements. They also proved useful during WW11 avoiding the Germans. Those in our group thought they were very interesting. After church, we walked through the arts and craft market--found a necklace that just called my name. We then walked back to the ship--very hot by then. We passed on the resistance and deportation museum--others that went said it was quite good. Sunday eening, we again sailed up the Saone to the Paul Bocuse dinner. Please don't eat much that day!!! It was held at a catering establishment of his. Much like a wedding reception, the first room was before dinner drinks and hors d'orvers and canapes. The great man(83 years old) made an appearance and posed for pictures. Then the dining room doors were opened to what sounded like calliope music. We marched in, found seats and the food procession began. A wonderful multi-course meal followed. We had 3 couples celebrating wedding anniversaries---2, 40 years and one 62 years. They received special desserts. Forgot to mention, we walked from the ship to the dinner in a fairly heavy rain. Those umbrellas in our room came in handy. By the time dinner was over, the rain had stopped. We were all groaning on our way back.

Mon am. Tain l'HermitageOne side of the river) and Tournon(the other side. We were the lucky group. We did the walking tour of Tournon first while is was still cool. On Monday, most shops are closed. Interesing little town. Next on to Valhrona and a lesson on Chocolate tasting. So dear to a chocoholic's heart. In Jan., the River Royale will be used as a floating dorm for the students at the chocolate school--we did not tour. Didn't have to think about trying to buy any goods, they had them in the shop on board. The wine tasting at Ferraton was very interesting. We were served an orange flavored brioche between wines. Our guide that morning was Jeanette. She did the translating for Madame Farraton--we all thought that Madame understood Eng. We asked about the recipe for the bread. Jeanette said that she would see us that evening and bring her own recipe for this bread. She did. Christian, our tour director, made copies for all of us. This wine cellar was marvelous.

Back on board for lunch and an enjoyable afternoon cruising down the Rhone. Early evening found us in Viviers. We went to an organ concert in this medieval town. The walk was straight up--so those with bad knees(us) took the cab. We returned to a late dinner. There was a very small restaurant right across from the dock that served frog's legs. There was a great gathering of crew and passengers later that nite.

Avignon and Arles will be the next installment. Pat

[holomuku]

Pat-

 

thanks so much for sharing!! The friends that we are travelling with owned a restaurant in Princeville, Kauai for many years so hopefully we too will get to meet Mr. Bocuse. That would be such a thrill for them!

 

appreciate your posting even if exhausted-- we can hardly wait, hopefully we'll have slightly cooler weather early Sep.

 

sally

[pacmom]

Avignin and Arles. If this was Tues., it must be Avignon. We docked right near downtown. After breakfast, two options were available: ride the small train(think of Disney's parking lot) around town or do the walking tour. Since we wanted to go inside the Pope's Palace, we opted for the walking. Since the heat of the day hadn't arrived yet, the walk was fine. Yes, there are stairs in the palace, but no one rushed. Our quide, a youg woman named Laurence, was excellent. She spoke English with a Brooklyn accent---had taught French in a Quaker school in Brooklyn. The palace was very interesting archecturally speaking. The French Revolution cut off more than peoples' heads. Even the statues in the palace lost theirs. The walls had been plastered over and now the daunting job of restoring the original frescoes has begun. Where the work has been finished, the walls are beautiful in a primitive way. In the Pope's study, the frescoes show not perspective, beautiful non the less. Tour over, back to the boat and those blessedly cold towels. After lunch, DH and I walked back thru town on our own. He was trying to find a wine store, but it kept eluding him. The town sponsors afestival of the arts during July--sort of like the fringe festival in Scotland. There were stages all over--even in the Palace courtyard. While we were touring, costumes were brought in, so beautiful. Can't imagine wearing the heavy velvets and brocades in the heat we were experiencing. The gift shop at the museum had some very interesting pendants---miniature tiles, repilcas of the tiles on the floors in the palace. They were 5 euros, and only sold at that shop.

The Captain's farewell dinner was that evening---definitely not as dressey as the welcome. There was entertainment on board--a good keyboard player who sang. At about 10pm we were treated to a passenger choir rendition of "Sur le pont". When that was over, a large group of us went across the street to ride on the ferris wheel. It was beautiful, seeing everything lit up. One of the couples went in the late afternoon and said you could see for miles.

Wed.----Arles. None of us wanted to arrive here. It was the final stop on the cruise. At 9am, one of the guides, Nina, gave a lecture and slide presentation about VanGogh, or as she called him, Vincent. This is Vincent's town. We were fortunate to have Nina as our guide thru Arles. The Roman ampitheater was magnificent. We did not go in as part of the tour, but there was plenty of time to do it on your own. The night cafe is still there and a functioning cafe. Also the hospital where Vincent stayed after he cut off his earlobe. We ended the tour at the daily market--the fruits and vegs so fresh--the smell so inticing. There was also a "craft" part of the market---found a great source for lavendar. Back on board for lunch. After a bit of feet up time, we trekked back to town. Dh found his wine store this time--blessedly A/C. Also found the other daily necessity--gelato. Back to the ship for some cold drinks---then the work, organizing for packing. Early dinner--6:30 pm. Some of the group would be leaving at 4:15am. All transfers done well. Breakfast was available for those who could eat that early, and a full breakfast for those of us leaving at a nicer time of day. We left about 9am---on our for a 3 day trip to Nice. It was not part of the tour, so I won't include it here. Happy to answer any questions about Nice---great place to visit. Will address the crew and various briefings in the next and hopefully last installment. Pat

[holomuku]

Pat-

 

thanks for all the great info- appreciate it!

 

couple of ?'s- any tips on clothing, something you did/didn't bring that you wished you had/hadn't?

 

also, were you able to purchase wine at the places you did the wine tastings to take back to the ship to drink onboard (paying corkage of course). Sounds like you had a challenge finding wine stores!

 

thanks again!

[pacmom]

Homoluku,

 

Terry was looking for specific wine stores--not the Monoprix type. There was wine available at both tastings for purchase and he did. They only charged corkage in the dining room. If you were drinking it on the sun deck, there was no charge. If you normally don't travel with a corkscrew, bring one.

 

About the only thing i wish I had brought was woolite for rinsing things in the bathroom. Since we were 3 days in Paris and then 3 days in Nice, we needed to rinse out some things. I also forgot to pack my portable CD player for the plane rides. The cane seats we bought at the last minute were a great purchase. In the heat, it gave us a place to sit while the guide was talking. Don't bring travelers checks. You pay a fee when you buy them, and the same when you cash in. We were never not able to find an ATM at any places we stopped.

 

Remember to squirrel away the necessary money, in euros, for the tips. Don't put it on your credit card, it takes weeks before the crew gets their money. Plus then it is not anonymous.

 

READ ALL YOUR DOCUMENTS CAREFULLY. tHERE WERE QUITE A FEW MISTAKES FOR OUR GROUP!!!!!!!!!! Pat

[pacmom]

The MS River Royale is shiny new. She was carried by ship from the Netherlands, thus calling her a boat. The cabins, cat 2 & 3 are sized the same. Cat2 has a picture window and Cat3 has 2 portholes--never heard any complaints about cabins. Cat1 has sliding glass doors and a French balcony, but you loose about a foot in length. The cabins are all in the back half of the boat, with the public rooms in the front. The sun deck goes the length of the boat. The lounge is very comfortable with Roman shades that are user friendly. The bar is located here. The dining room and kitchen are below the lounge. It was good to see the kitchen on the same level as the dining room.

The crew was fantastic. There are two first captains. The one on our cruise was the older of the two. He left when we did and his younger counterpart came on board. There is a second captain. Between these 2 men the ship glided over the water. Only once did we feel a bump going thru a lock. The 2 "able seamen" kept us from being decapitated by the very low bridges on the Saone.

The hotel manager, Erick, so young looking for such a reaponsible position saw to all our needs "hotelwise". The purser, Dominick, was from Switzerland and a temporary replacement for the regular purser, a young woman on vacation. Dominick is going to be working in the main European office in Basel. He will spend one week a month on one of the boats.

The maitre d', Julian, ran a smooth dining room. During the "fancy" evenings he wore tails and did a great penguin walk. The wait staff quickly got to know who drank, tea or iced tea. The wine list was good, concentrating on the wines of the region. The first evening we left 1/2 of a bottle with our room # on it. The next evening no one could find it, So we were given a new bottle on the house.

The chef and his staff were wonderful. The menues were regional french. The pastry chef must have worked 20 hrs. per day. All the breads and sweets were made on board. We were given the opportunity to visit the galley---so new, so clean. Even were given a cooking lesson on making crepes suzette.

The 2 bartenders were a perfect foil for one another. Olivier was the drink master and Veronika's smile sold a lot of drinks. Olivier was going on leave when we left the boat. The drinks were reasonably priced, and served with the usual chips and peanuts, In one corner of the lounge there was a table that held an urn of very cold water---available 24/7. Downsatirs in fron of the dining was an area called the patio. There coffee, tea and hot chocolate were available 24/7. It was here that the early bird break-fast was served---small pastries and croissants.

The houskeeping staff was remarkable--sometimes the room was done while we were at breakfast--always by our late am return to the boat.

The laundry service was goo and promptly returned. Because our documents told of self-service facilities, they reduced the prices. My hus-band could have quicklu gotten used to ironed t-shirts. Towels and washclothes and personal laundry were done on the boat. Smartly, they sent the bed linens out.

The sundeck remained open the entire trip. While we were on the Saone with its very low bridges only the area in front the wheelhouse was available. Along the Rhone there were umbrellas and canopies for shade---very important in the heat. One afternoon while up on deck, my husband peeked in the wheelhouse. The captain inveited him in and showed him the various new aids in navigation--made my retired USNavy captain happy.

Of course the World Cup was going on while we were there. Every evening after they finished for the day, the crew was aft on the sundeck witha large screen TV. There was a Chinese-American group with 4 college students. They were invited to watch with the crew.

I know more things will come to mind as my mind comes back to Ohio.

Pat

[cruisencrazy]

Pac Mom,

I was not planning on doing laundry, bought tons of "undies" for myself and kids, but hubby insists he'll do laundry on board. We will be on River Queen.

Curious, what do they charge to wash the unmentionables?

[pacmom]

Don't remember exactly, but it was too much---easy to wash out and hang. We brought some of those plastic hangers--great clothes lines.

Pat

[pacmom]

More thoughts---our cruise director--a gentleman named Christian Basil from Vienna. He was a wealth of information about all of our stops. Those who went to the Resistance Museum were treated to a history of Europe from about 1930 til the end of WW11. He also went on leave at the end of our cruise. He handled all the problems with transfers and wrong tickets with patience and a smile. His port talks were informative. If he said that it was a strenuous walk, it was. Early on, he taught us a simple bon jour would go a long way towards a better relationship with clerks and waiters. It worked. We all felt that he treated us as thinking travelers--not tourists to be herded about. He really was very patient with our questions--rather glad we would ask about places and not sit like lumps. Even tho we found out that he teaches languages in Vienna, we said his nite job moght be a stand up comic. Well, bon nuit. Pat

[cruisr]

I'm going on the July 20 sailing from Lyon to Arles. Lots of great info. I will bring my own wine onboard. I always carry a corkscrew (it is actually one I got from Seabourn ages ago) and good to know I can bring a bottle up on deck. Any problems bringing my own rum onboard.

 

Did a lot of people use the jacuzzi? I always like to get in the hot tub to relax at the end of the day and just hang out.

 

You mentioned dinner is open seating. What times is the dining room open? Do you have to come down the minute the DR opens? I am use to Seabourn and you can come in anytime between 7:00PM and 9:00PM. Is there any flexibilty to arrival time in the dining room?

 

How was the A/C on the ship? Too cold or just right? DId you need a shawl or sweater in the dining room or public rooms?

 

I'm spending 4 nights in Paris on my own and will be taking TGV down to Lyon. Iam spending a couple nights in Nimes afterward.

 

Did you go to Pont du Gard?

 

Thanks again for all your help.

Bon voyage

[pacmom]

Cruisr,

 

You may bring any alcohol on board for use in your cabin or on the sundeck. Any wine you bring to the dining room incurs a $7 corkage fee.

 

DH and I never used the hottub---but enough did and enjoyed. I have fairly short hair and never used the salon--the manicures looked wonderful. The people who used the massuer loved it.

 

We kept our cabin fairly cold. There is a duvet on the bed. If you wany a top sheet, just ask. there are individual controls.

 

We did not go to Pont du Gard.

 

It was in the 90's by the time we got to arles, so my ventures out were limited to the mornings.

 

We also took the TGV to Lyons. Great and fast. Paris was Paris--a lovely city. We had been before so we opted to walk the Marais and take a cruise on the Canal St. Martin. Takes you from the center of Paris to the Northern suburbs. Then you take the Metro back. Just watch your purse on the Metro. We still have not seen all we would like to see. If you like Monet, there is a museum devoted to his work, located out towards to Bois--well worth going to.

 

Bon voyage--enjoy the trip. Pat

[pacmom]

Just realized I didn't answer about dinner. The cruise director would usually give the port talk (the next day's adventure) about 20 min. before dinner was scheduled. Then the bell would sound for dinner and people would wander on down. There is just one seating and they pretty much expect you to be there within about 15 min after the bell. There was never a mad dash for the dining room or a line up outside. Pat

[ailmod]

Thanks so much for your wonderful account of your trip! I am so excited- I had heard good things about Uniworld from friends,but you really clinched it for me. You should become a travel writer.My husband and I are on the July 20 sailing,and really looking forward to it.We're usually cruise ship passengers,but have done a river cruise in China,and really enjoyed that as well.It's nice to have only 100 passengers as opposed to 3000! I just visited the Paul Bocuse website-Collonges looks to be huge! Was the food good?We are spending 3 days in Paris first,then a gite in the Loire valley,and then the cruise.We live in Florida now,and thought we'd get away from the summer heat,but I guess it was quite hot there from what you describe.If you can handle Florida heat,you can handle anything! Thanks again for your entertaining and enlightening review-will write upon our return.

[cruisr]

Well, looks like I will be with you and your DH on this sailing. I am spending 4 nts in Paris, leaving a week from tonight. I'm really looking forward to it. I usually cruise on Seabourn and having done all the big ships. I am convinced that small is better.

 

Send me a private email at luvcruisesathotmail.com if you want to chat.

Bon voyage

Cruisr

[cruisr]

Thanks for all the info. I have been to Paris 10 times but have never done the Canal St. Martin. It is on my list to do this time. The museum you refer to that has the Monet's is the Marmottan. It is in the Passy area and is amazing. I have also been to Giverny and loved visting Monet's house.

 

It sounds like you had a great time. I leave a week from tonight. I'll post a report when I get back.

 

BTW, that corkage fee is a bargain.

Bon voyage

[jgnova]

The issue of Porthole magazine that just arrived today (August 2006) features the River Royale on the cover and an 8 page spread inside with photos and text.

S

[holomuku]

Does anyone know if that can be found on newsstands or is it subscription only?

 

thanks

[mymk4u]

Pacmom,

Merci for the lowdown on this boat and the trip. My mother in law is taking my hubby, me and my sis & brother in law on this cruise next June. All she said when she invited us was that it was a group riverboat cruise in Southern France. When I got the paperwork from the travel agency and it said Uniworld and River Royale I immediately jumped onto their website. Wow! I can't wait for this trip!!! My girlfriend, who happens to be a travel agent specializing in cruises, said Uniworld runs great trips. Sounds like she's right...as usual.

 

Hubby and I did our first cruise, Royal Caribbean, last year. It was fun but I think I'd prefer smaller and more intimate groups like this one. (One thing I won't miss is the annoying CD with her bullhorn on the sun deck) The group we'll be traveling with is going to all be much older than us but what the heck...I'm going to celebrate my birthday next year in France. Whoo hoo! And, I have a year to brush up on my 37 year old high school French. ;)

 

Linda

[TerryG]

“The cane seats we bought at the last minute were a great purchase. In the heat, it gave us a place to sit while the guide was talking.”

Please tell use more about these cane seats.

Where did you buy them? Did you carry them on the walking tours?

[pacmom]

We bought the cane seats at Dick's sporting goods here in Ohio. They are actual canes with what looks a paddle about 1/3 of the way down. This releases, slids down to form the seat and the 3 legs splay out. We were able to get one in the 29in. checked bag, but mine wouldn't fit in the 26in. bag. They cost about $20. Ours are aluminium--very lightweight-- great for walking on the cobbles and going up steps. We have seen them made of wood and costing upwards of $60. I'm sure that any sporting goods store with a camping section will have them. Pat

 

P.S. We're not lite weights---held us just fine.

[pacmom]

Found a copy of Porthole at Barnes & Noble. The pictures are beautiful. It really did look like the photos. The write-up was right on. The only thing they don't mentin is that when you open the sliding door, it shuts off the a/c and at this time of year invites in the small winged beings. Pat