Review-8 night Indep Land/SB Summit: 8/05

[SEPyle]

Where does the time go. We've been home since the 13, and want to share my reflections of a wonderful trip! Of course following is what worked and what didn't work so well, for us...my opinion only! Warning: This will be long...but I will try to keep it short!

 

Background: This was our 2nd trip to Alaska. We went last year on the same ship, however NB instead of SB. We combined the cruise w/cruisetour #13 last year; a 5 night post cruise. This year we did 8 nights independent using Princess trains and some car rentals. I do have to say we loved last year; chose our cruisetour carefully making sure we mostly train w/ the only motorcoach from Seward to Anchorage. Both land tours included air thru Alaska Air; Last year Anchorage to Fairbanks; this time Fairbanks to Anchorage.

 

Last year it was just our immed family and best friend. We have traveled together before and our traveling styles are compatable. New in the mix this year was a friend of my daughters and her parents. Come to find out, her parents had never really traveled (only to golf tournaments) and therefore we had several times very real of stress. In my opinion, a an organized tour thru the cruiseline would be a better choice to for a varied group.

 

In my opinion, The air cost apprx $100 pp; well worth the cost considering cost of gas and of course precious time.

 

We also had the time to add Seward and feel the Alaska RR from Anchorage to Seward was so much more spectacular than by auto or motorcoach!

 

Because we were using trains primarily trains (except we did have a car rental for most of our time in Seward), I chose places to stay that were doable w/o a rental. In my opinion, good choices for us: They are as follows:

 

Flew into Anchorage, arriving around 8:40pm. We used the toursaver book for the Hawthorne Suites for two nights. You have to wait till you actually have luggage in hand; then use the courtesy shuttle phone to call for the van. We ended up having to wait, but that's the luck of the draw. Hawthorne is within walking distance of downtown, even for me who isn't used to a lot of walking. With any real walking challenges though I would find a place more centrally located. Rooms are nice and large; clean and the buffet breakfast was quite decent. We actually stayed there when we flew back into ANC from Fairbanks for one more night. My daughter was less than pleased that she wasn't told the wake-up call system didn't work and they had to rush like mad since we were leaving on the early morning ARR rail to Seward.

 

In Talkeetna we stayed at the Swiss Alaska Inn. What a nice charming place it turned out to be! I was most worried about this one because I hadn't heard of any reviews. It is very close to town with a nice walking path right into 'Beautiful Downtown Talkeetna'! The rooms are so quaint w/ a real European charm. The owners/family just couldn't be nicer and would stay there again in a heartbeat. They picked us up at the train station and took us back as well. We stayed there for two nights and because of scheduling of trains, didn't stay in Denali. My daughter works on the Princess trains, so going w/ her was a priority for us. The day we got to Talkeetna we did the 3 1/2 hour Jetboat tour w/ Mayhay's, using the toursaver coupon. We enjoyed our time, but the trappers cabin in my opinion is a bit 'touresty'. Walking out to a giant beaver house was really interesting. Jetting on the shallow rivers was amazing, especially knowing now how they have flooded!

 

The next morning we used Talkeetna Aero/Denali Day trip. In my opinion, a really great option! They picked us up at the Swiss Alaska Inn bright and early at 6:45AM. It was touch and go since the weather was questionable, but all of a sudden we got word that the satelite showed the MTN was out! Yeaaaah! We had an awsome flightseeing tour thru the Mtns, and then made our way to the Healy airport. On the way into town they stopped to pick up our very generous bag lunches. We had plenty to eat for our shuttle bus ride!

 

OK, now for the shuttle bus. Last year we took the Tundra Wilderness Tour so a bit more comparing: We had a good driver. He's been driving on the shuttles for either 3 or 4 seasons. He did give good information and we saw an amazing amount of wildlife. I will say: He did a lot of comparing to the Tundra Wilderness Tour and letting us know how fortunate we were to be paying less! He mentioned that the TWT is their 'cash-cow' and people pay a premium price. He also said drivers have to drive on the shuttle's for quite a few years before being able to drive on the TWT busses. OK, now here I go: I will ask for no flaming please since this is MY opinion! If your plan is to get off and on to hike various areas, then by all means the shuttle is the ONLY way to go. He spent a lot of time sharing various hiking options. Our daughters would have loved to have hiked, but since we were on the Day Trip, it wasn't advised by Talkeetna Aero. They ended up loving our day and planning on going back to hike another trip! OK, now here's where my opinion is going out on a limb: Some advise that the shuttle is the only way to go. If you don't plan on hiking and you're doing a land tour thru the cruise line, don't feel you are settling in doing the Tundra Wilderness Tour. Our driver last year had a passion for the park; for his job; and for nature in general. His dialogue during the tour was in it'self worth every penny of the cost. We had a geologist on the bus and he said the driver shared a college course of information with us, delivering it in understandable terms! Bottom line I came away feeling we had a nice personable driver on the shuttle, but his commentary was more like a commercial for camping/hiking options in the park rather than background information that makes Denali so incredible. On the other hand, if your desire is to get off and hike, again the shuttle bus is the BEST option! One more observation: We were in Denali last year the last day of May. This year we were almost exactly two months later. We saw so much more wildlife this year and went both times to Tolkat. I'm not sure if it's the luck of the draw or later in the season is better for wildlife!

 

OK, on the rails again. I love trains and for me, I absolutely loved our time on them. Observations comparring Royal Celebrity to Princess. Overall, I will have to say I preferred Royal Celebrity. The Royal Celebrity Dome cars are much newer and very much more luxurious. Princess has table sitting whereas Royal Celebrity has traditional seating in very comfortable roomy leather seats. It was however nice visiting during the trip with the table seating on Princess. I did like the outside platforms on Princess. They are roomier; and have a television telling you right where you are! OK, now for the food: On both the food is quite good w/ Royal Celebrity having a slight edge.

 

OK, on to Fairbanks: I tried to call ahead to our the Rivers Edge Resort to make sure everything was in order, but my call didn't go thru on my cell. Come to find out I found out in Alaska you don't need to use the 907, simply the number. Even though I was calling from Denali (cell coverage not a problem) I should have just dialed the 7 digit number not 10 digit. We called from the train station in Fairbanks and their used their bus to take us to the property. Adorable indiv cabins; nice and roomy with two queen beds in each. Only problem was that our reservation was somehow not showing and our long awaited river's edge cabins were replaced with cabins not next to the river. They were great though in working it out and gave us a refund for a price difference.

 

I'm going to pause now, because I know I'm being so long winded...but I also know when I was planning our trip I so appreciated other's experience-both what worked and what didn't work!

 

So I will do a 'NEXT INSTALLMENT' soon!

[NancyIL]

I knew you were back and was waiting for your review - especially of the Denali day trip out of Talkeetna! Thanks so much for the first installment. :)

[SEPyle]

Con’t:

Fairbanks: Our long awaited trip to Antuvak Pass with a phone call from Northern Alaska all of a sudden was in jeopardy – weather: bummer. The sad part is that we wasted most of the morning waiting to find out if we would be going to the Arctic or stay in Fairbanks and do the Riverboat Discovery. It was literally the last minute and I decided to use my husbands cell to call and get space confirmed on the Riverboat when they called from Northern Alaska saying we could substitute a tour to the town of Beaver with a fly above the Arctic Circle, but a tour just below. We decided to go for it and glad we did since the folks at Northern Alaska Tour Co refunded us for a less expensive tour. We really did enjoy the tour and learning about life in a small village so close to the Arctic Circle was amazing. Lesson learned again: Weather in Alaska can make a big difference in your plans – be flexible!

Our next leg of the trip was probably my most anticipated because last year we only had time to spend an hour or so in Seward. Such a shame since Seward is such a great destination. We took the train and two of my daughters drove from Anchorage, enjoying the drive. Or was the big draw that they didn’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn since they partied with youngest daughters’ Princess friends??? The train trip was so beautiful! If you want pics of the water; sit on the right side of the train from Anchorage, which we did. My plan worked great. I asked when we would be arriving at the Glaciers and about 15 minutes prior, I went up to the dome car. It worked great and I got some great shots! Upon arrival in Seward, we had it all set up for PJ’s Taxi Service (Renee) to pick us up at the train station. By the way, Renee contributes to CruiseCritic often as Glacier Lady. I’m impressed she never tries to ‘drum-up’ business! Thanks Renee for your great trips when we didn’t have the rental. We stayed at the River Valley Cabins, which is just outside Seward, not far from Exit Glacier and right around the corner from Seavy’s, where you can take a Dog Cart ride. By the time we got into our adorable well equipped cottages, I must say Mother Nature wasn’t cooperating in the weather dept. There was a steady rain, but what can I say, we were in Alaska! We went back into town for lunch and some shopping before going back out to the cabins. We ate dinner at the Salmon Bake, which was quite good! OK, now the fun part began. Thanks to the late setting sun, it wasn’t a big problem when the power went out after our food came. When we were told the power was out ALL OVER Seward, we realized we might have an interesting night! Since we knew we didn’t have power we took the opportunity to drive up to Exit Glacier, about an 8 mile drive I believe. We made as far as a nice view of the glacier and got some really nice pics. Since the light would soon be a memory I’m glad we made it back to the cabins before dark. Talk about a real Alaska experience, staying deep in the woods, in a rustic cabin, going to sleep under a comfy comforter! I’m also very grateful the electricity came back on in the middle of the night so we could get ready in the morning with all the comforts of home!

The next day we were scheduled for an all day wildlife cruise thru the Alaska Saltwater Lodge into the Kenai Fjords Nat’l Park. The weather is drizzly and after a challenge finding I went into one of the larger operators, if they knew how to find our charter. The girl told me: “One thing is for sure…you’re not going out today, the waves are very high and tours are cancelled.” Thank goodness we were booked with Jim, since we did go, however it would be a shortened trip and again a partial refund. Yes, I do wish we could have done the all day version, but we had a ball. In my opinion…oh there I go again, smaller is better! We were able to get into a cove with the most scenery; emerald green waters; 100’s orange and lighter jelly fish; eagles’ jumping salmon…and a waterfall beyond words. I was at the bow of the boat and getting a close-up of nature’s beauty. All of a sudden we were closer and I was literally wet…I was about UNDER the waterfall! That’s one of those ‘priceless’ moments! Oh yes, I can’t forget the sea otters, just ‘vegging’ in the water. They were adorable! We then crossed the bay. Remember the high waves I was warned about …Well, further out they were supposed to be at the 14 foot mark; but where we were, they were about 8 foot. Our boat took them like a champ! Instead of a terrible bumpy ride which I have experienced on bigger sightseeing boats, we felt like we were experiencing a great ride at an amusement park! We had a ball!!!! In fact I wouldn’t have missed that part for the world! Oh yes, I am one who is apt to get seasick, so I came prepared…I took my Dramamine Non-Drowsy – don’t leave home w/o it! On the way back we saw the glacier up front and personal as well as Puffins; and Porpoise too! We didn’t see any whales, but oh well…

I do want to say, we loved our Captain and Naturalist. Sorry I can’t remember their names, but our all girl crew were great! We loved our personalized tour and even though it was the shortened version, I’m so glad we were able to experience what we experienced!

After dinner since our daughter was on her way back to Anchorage to work the next early am, Renee came to the rescue again! She took us on a great tour of Seward and even took us out to Lowell Point. Originally we were supposed to stay at the Alaska Saltwater Lodge (our cruise was cancelled in May due to mechanical problems) and I will say, it is beautiful and what a view! On the way back Renee even took us to see Salmon at the end of their life cycle. It’s said to see them that way, but that’s nature, right? Bald eagles were sitting in the tree; just like they were paid to perform! Again, thanks Renee!

OK, it’s now cruise day, and we awoke to the promise of a beautiful day! We walked over and took part in Seavy’s dog cart ride…glad we did it, and the ride thru the rainforest was really beautiful and fun too! OK, now off to the ship!

Sorry again for being so long-winded...just hope it helps someone plan!

[NancyIL]

Was your scheduled Arctic trip to Anaktuvuk Pass the 5-hour flying trip, or the 14-hour trip that drives to Coldfoot, then flies to Anaktuvuk Pass and back to Fairbanks? I am considering the latter for next summer. It's too bad your preferred tour was cancelled, but nice that you were able to go on a different tour.

[tapia]

Thank you so much for posting. It seems like everything was wonderful!!!!

 

Did you use the toursaver coupon when taking the day flight from Talkeetna?

 

Really glad you posted --it will be very useful!

[SEPyle]

Ok, let me answer both questions:

 

Our Anaktuvuk Pass tour was to be the 5 hour flying trip. According to the folks at Northern Alaska often a stop at Coldfoot is included, however it's by air. I was really looking forward to Anaktuvak Pass, but that's the chance you take. When we returned from Beaver we were told the early morning tour did land in Anaktuvuk Pass, but they almost didn't make it out. The weather got worse througout the day so they made a good call.

 

The answer is no in reference to us using the toursaver coupon. The reason was that they don't honer those for a whole group. We had 8 people so I completely understand. They did give us a reduced rate though...$280 including a flightseeing over McKinley. I thought that was a decent rate. I really enjoyed the flight back to Talkeetna too. We got some really great pics!

[NancyIL]

About your Denali day trip - what time did your shuttle bus tour begin, and how far did you go into Denali? What time were you picked up for your flight back to Talkeetna?

[ACCagent]

You mentioned that your cell phone worked fine in Denali. What server do you use? Did you have good service in the other areas? Your report is wonderful and should be very helpful to many. Thanks for sharing.

[SEPyle]

OK, let me see...our shuttle bus left at 9:30am and we were back by as I remember around 5PM. They then took us back to Healy and the flight back to Talkeetna took about 45 minutes. It was a long day, but a wonderful one! The best part was that the weather was quite good in Denali (except the MTN wasn't out), however by doing the flightseeing we had great shots of Denali...oops, Mt. McKinley! Even on the way back we were able to see the MTN!

 

We have Sun Com, which was split off from ATT and Cingular. Now as far as coverage: Excellent coverage in Anchorage; Decent, but not great in Talkeetna; Excellent in Denali (by the train depot anyway); Fairbanks had good coverage; Seward coverage was only good in town. We stayed out by Exit Glacier and on the way into town around the Saveway store, coverage began to work. Hope that helps!

 

Sharon

[fti]

OK, now here's where my opinion is going out on a limb: Some advise that the shuttle is the only way to go. If you don't plan on hiking and you're doing a land tour thru the cruise line, don't feel you are settling in doing the Tundra Wilderness Tour. Our driver last year had a passion for the park; for his job; and for nature in general. His dialogue during the tour was in it'self worth every penny of the cost. We had a geologist on the bus and he said the driver shared a college course of information with us, delivering it in understandable terms! Bottom line I came away feeling we had a nice personable driver on the shuttle, but his commentary was more like a commercial for camping/hiking options in the park rather than background information that makes Denali so incredible. On the other hand, if your desire is to get off and hike, again the shuttle bus is the BEST option!

 

First of all, thanks for your excellent reviews.

 

Secondly, most people don't know this, but if you buy a ticket for the TWT, you are allowed to get off and hike and get on any shuttle bus back to the park entrance. Very few if any do this, but it is allowed. You are not allowed, however, to buy a shuttle bus ticket and get on a TWT bus.

 

I have taken camper busses (not shuttle busses) the two times I have been in Denali. I think the drivers of those have more experience (two years ago was Mona who has driven for 10-15 years and is now a supervisor) and this year was a guy who has driven for 10 years or so and on his days off, rides the shuttle busses himself! I think the camper bus drivers generally have more experience than the regular shuttle bus drivers, but I am not positive. Both my drivers from the park entrance were wonderfully informative. During one of my hiking days, I got on a shuttle bus to get me from about mile 40 Wonder Lake. That driver was not as informative as the other two I had. So I guess it depends a lot on who you get.

[SEPyle]

fti, I agree, it depends on who you get. According to our driver TWT drivers have quite a bit more years...ours last year was as I remember on year 23. He was amazing. Our's this year was personable, but amazing...not.

 

I've uploaded enough of our FlightSeeing over McKinley, that is worth sharing: the biggest problem what to leave out and what to post. So many beautiful views! Last year we did a Summit Flight and overall, more spectacular, but I sure did love our flight this year!

 

http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=553573048&security=hwdToi

[fti]

I loved your pictures. Thanks for sharing. I got a few pictures of Mt. McKinley in June that I loved. It was "out" clear as day for 18 hours straight. I stayed up almost all night:) Got a couple of great pictures with alpenglow and the reflection pond near Wonder Lake. Just can't get enough of Denali! In fact, I am going back next year.

[jjduck]

You've brought back great memories as we were in Alaska a couple of months ago. Your review is full of very useful details AND entertaining at the same time!

 

Ah, yes, that waterfall on the NW Glacier tour is beautiful. We didn't get as wet as you, but came close. :) Had my first bout with seasickness on that boat tour, full blown sick, BUT still enjoyed Nature. Oh, and Exit Glacier is a fun place too. Ahhhh, memories!

 

Glad you had such a good time.

 

Aloha,

 

Noreen.

[SEPyle]

I loved your pictures. Thanks for sharing. I got a few pictures of Mt. McKinley in June that I loved. It was "out" clear as day for 18 hours straight. I stayed up almost all night:) Got a couple of great pictures with alpenglow and the reflection pond near Wonder Lake. Just can't get enough of Denali! In fact, I am going back next year.

 

Please share your pics! It amazes me that I love to look at pics people I really don't know post on CC! Guess we share a commen bond...a love for the beauty of this great land!

 

I understand what you mean about staying up all night. When we visited Fairbanks last year, the sun was setting around midnight. I knew we had to be up early to catch the train to Talkeetna, but who could sleep with such beauty in the works. Etched in my mind is the sun setting as a couple and child were canoeing up the Chena River toward the setting sun. My husband couldn't understand when I tried to wake him up to enjoy it with me!:o

 

Sharon

[SEPyle]

You've brought back great memories as we were in Alaska a couple of months ago. Your review is full of very useful details AND entertaining at the same time!

 

Ah, yes, that waterfall on the NW Glacier tour is beautiful. We didn't get as wet as you, but came close. :) Had my first bout with seasickness on that boat tour, full blown sick, BUT still enjoyed Nature. Oh, and Exit Glacier is a fun place too. Ahhhh, memories!

Noreen.

 

Thanks for the kind words! About seasickness...I understand; I've been there done that! I did take a trusty dramimine non-drowsy before leaving and I'm sure that helped, but even with the high waves our smaller than the average seemed to take on the waves like a champ! No one else took anything and did well...THANK GOODNESS! I really don't think there's much worse than being seasick. Once you start, it just gets worse!

 

OK, I'm going to upload more pics before leaving for work...

Sharon

[NancyIL]

I have taken camper busses (not shuttle busses) the two times I have been in Denali. I think the drivers of those have more experience (two years ago was Mona who has driven for 10-15 years and is now a supervisor) and this year was a guy who has driven for 10 years or so and on his days off, rides the shuttle busses himself! I think the camper bus drivers generally have more experience than the regular shuttle bus drivers, but I am not positive. Both my drivers from the park entrance were wonderfully informative. During one of my hiking days, I got on a shuttle bus to get me from about mile 40 Wonder Lake. That driver was not as informative as the other two I had. So I guess it depends a lot on who you get.

 

Does the camper bus also take the people who are staying in the Kantishna lodges? How often does it run?

[GMoney]

 

OK, now for the shuttle bus. Last year we took the Tundra Wilderness Tour so a bit more comparing: We had a good driver. He's been driving on the shuttles for either 3 or 4 seasons. He did give good information and we saw an amazing amount of wildlife. I will say: He did a lot of comparing to the Tundra Wilderness Tour and letting us know how fortunate we were to be paying less! He mentioned that the TWT is their 'cash-cow' and people pay a premium price. He also said drivers have to drive on the shuttle's for quite a few years before being able to drive on the TWT busses. OK, now here I go: I will ask for no flaming please since this is MY opinion! If your plan is to get off and on to hike various areas, then by all means the shuttle is the ONLY way to go. He spent a lot of time sharing various hiking options. Our daughters would have loved to have hiked, but since we were on the Day Trip, it wasn't advised by Talkeetna Aero. They ended up loving our day and planning on going back to hike another trip! OK, now here's where my opinion is going out on a limb: Some advise that the shuttle is the only way to go. If you don't plan on hiking and you're doing a land tour thru the cruise line, don't feel you are settling in doing the Tundra Wilderness Tour. Our driver last year had a passion for the park; for his job; and for nature in general. His dialogue during the tour was in it'self worth every penny of the cost. We had a geologist on the bus and he said the driver shared a college course of information with us, delivering it in understandable terms! Bottom line I came away feeling we had a nice personable driver on the shuttle, but his commentary was more like a commercial for camping/hiking options in the park rather than background information that makes Denali so incredible. On the other hand, if your desire is to get off and hike, again the shuttle bus is the BEST option! One more observation: We were in Denali last year the last day of May. This year we were almost exactly two months later. We saw so much more wildlife this year and went both times to Tolkat. I'm not sure if it's the luck of the draw or later in the season is better for wildlife!

 

 

I love to hike so this sounds perfect for me. Where can I find more info on this shuttle bus? THanks!

[NancyIL]

I love to hike so this sounds perfect for me. Where can I find more info on this shuttle bus? THanks!

 

http://www.reservedenali.com/shuttle_bus.php

[NancyIL]

Does the camper bus also take the people who are staying in the Kantishna lodges? How often does it run?

 

Never mind....I see the answer on the Denali reservations site!