Just returned from Radiance, 9/16/06 pacific coastal - review (long)

[IMNiles]

I'm moving this review from the 'live' thread to a new one, since I'm at home now and it's not really 'live' anymore. (sigh) As usual, I had a great trip overall, with your usual assortment of hiccups. I'll post my notes in installments, as I get them finished - please feel free to ask any questions you may have, preferably before I forget what happened!

 

Day 1 Sat - Vancouver, BC. Departure

Not wanting to spend the time and money on a hotel the night before, I opted for the first time to arrive the day of departure. Since I knew the next two stops were not far away, I didn't stress too much about missing the ship. I figured (rightly, it turns out) that the ship would probably sail late due to the easy itinerary, and that even if I missed it, it would be very easy to meet up at the next stop. I flew into Seattle and purchased the RCCL transfer to the pier from Seattle ($65). As advertised, there were plenty of cruiseline personnel at baggage claim, and although I wasn't on their list (I never am for some reason), they directed me to the desk outside (waaaaayyyyy at the end of the row of cruiseline desks) where I was promptly issued a ticket for bus #1, a small granola bar, and a bottle of water. Easy!

 

I'll fast forward past all the waiting, watching all the other busses come and go, and promises of "just 10 more minutes" to approximately 1.5 hours later when our bus arrived, a bit worse for wear. This is a bus that was clearly past it's prime, but it was comfortable enough. Unlike on some excursions, the bus was filled nearly to capacity, so luggage space inside the bus was at a premium. Aside from a spot of trouble restarting the bus at the border, and an unfortunate lady who got stuck in the steamy bathroom for awhile, the trip to Vancouver passed without serious trouble and we arrived about 3-3.5 hours after we left Seattle (give or take, I forget exactly). We did not see our luggage again after we put it on the bus in Seattle - it was checked straight in, so the lesson here is to make sure you carry anything on the bus that you want to carry on the ship (if it will fit - the 'bins' were tiny and the bus full, so a standard carryon would not fit inside). The luggage was not unloaded in our presence - it took off to the lower level to unload our bags after we got off (so don't leave your passport in your bag!). After an opportunity to use the facilities and shop duty free we went through security (past sternly worded signs warning against alcohol smuggling) and were instructed to sit in a small sea of chairs (the line was very long, and full - a single line fed all agents, there was no special line immediately in evidence for suites or C&A status). There was no special line for completed set sail passes, and I overheard a lot of grumbling about this. (it was nearly 3pm by now, so maybe they were gone by then). After we were ushered into the line and made one full switchback, I asked a couple of chatting employees about the (unmarked) line they seemed to be guarding. They informed me it was the "diamond and platinum" line. The line was empty, so I flashed my platinum card, hopped the line, and was on the ship in 5 minutes. I was informed by the agent that they had been having computer trouble, so perhaps that explains the line. It all seemed very disorganized. For me personally, it was my fastest boarding ever, but this was due entirely to the apparently-secret platinum/diamond line. Due entirely to the C&A line - Easy!

 

There was the usual embarkation photo right before stepping onto the gangway, the hand sanitizers at the entrance, and the seapass picture taking just as you board. We boarded on deck 5, and there were plenty of crewmembers on hand to direct people where they needed to go. The elevators and stairs were close at hand. The first impression when you get on the ship is a little muted, mainly because you don't walk right into the centrum, which is, as is typical of royal caribbean ships, very pretty, and particularly awe-inspiring for those who have not sailed a large cruise ship before. The centrum spans nearly 8 decks (4 to 11) and is filled with windows and a giant hanging sculpture. If you are not suitably amazed by the corridor when you walk on the ship, amble over to the centrum to set your mood before continuing.

 

I usually try to look at a deck plan before boarding so I know where my cabin is, but this time I forgot, so it took a bit of wandering and sign-reading to find my berth. My cabin, #3642, was an oceanview quite far aft. The aft stairway on radiance is crew-only, so it's a bit of a hike back to the midship stairs, but I don't mind - need to work off that buffet food somehow! I beat my luggage to the room, so I dropped off my stuff and headed to the buffet (I noted that the wine I had ordered from gifts and gear was waiting in my cabin). My cabin attendant was not in evidence - as it turns out, I would not "meet" her for several days, which I thought was odd, but she always did her job well.

 

The buffet was typically busy, but not super-crowded like I've seen it on Voyager ships. Oddly, the whole "back" of the windjammer (which is outside, but under cover) was closed off. This was my first experience with the "code red" status (there was a norovirus outbreak on the 9/2 sailing). There was staff everywhere, and hand sanitizers at the windjammer entrance. You were not allowed to touch anything - there were staff members handing out plates, serving the food, and serving drinks. There was no passenger contact with any part of the buffet, and there was a sign instructing us not to touch anything. Even after a full week, I never quite got the hang of the layout of the windjammer on this ship. Maybe it's just me, but I find the 'jammer on Voyager and Vision easier to navigate. Food was your typical buffet fare, and just fine for a midwestern boy like me.

 

As I alluded to before, we did not sail on time. Due to the recent fire on another line, RCCL had decided to replace the balcony dividers on the ship with more fire-resistant glass (I guess they were some kind of plastic before?). The captain came on the PA to announce that there were still workmen on board, and our departure would be delayed by some 3 hours (to 8 oclock). This did not impact our next port, because Nanaimo is not very far away from Vancouver. This work continued in several other ports as well. I'm told that nobody on deck 7 was able to access their cabins for several hours after boarding, and I heard a fair bit of grumbling about this.

 

As promised, we sailed away around 8, and I enjoyed this one as much as any other. A fellow CC'er had invited our roll call to a sailaway on her aft balcony, and it was just lovely (that balcony was huge!). I just love sailing up around Vancouver- it's so beautiful and peaceful (even when it's foggy and misty), and if you watch carefully, you may see a whale or dolphins swimming along with us(several did). If you are sailing into or out of BC, definitely get outside and enjoy the slow sail - it's not to be missed!

 

All in all, despite a few hiccups along the way, it was a pleasant first day. I made it to the ship with all my luggage, and the ship did not sink. What else could I ask for? ;)

[cruzingduo]

IMNiles,

We are sailing on the Radiance 9-14-07 and I look forward to the rest of your review. Also, where did you fly from?

[IMNiles]

I flew up from Phoenix. Alaska flies direct to Seattle (so does USAirways, but I avoid flying them at all costs).

[cruzingduo]

we are from the East coast and will be flying from Newark, NJ probably on Continental. Do you recommend flying in a day ahead? I found a flight that arrives in Vancouver at 10:48 am.

 

I think our itinerary is a little different. We're on the Radiance repo from Alaska to LA, 14 nights.

[IMNiles]

we are from the East coast and will be flying from Newark, NJ probably on Continental. Do you recommend flying in a day ahead? I found a flight that arrives in Vancouver at 10:48 am.

 

I think our itinerary is a little different. We're on the Radiance repo from Alaska to LA, 14 nights.

 

Is that the one that starts in YVR, pokes up into Alaska, then comes back down the coast? It looks fabulous! At any rate, I almost always fly in a day ahead, particularly when travelling cross-country when there are so many other factors that can make you late (weather, stops, etc). I chose not to this time, simply because I knew the next stop was just a short ferry ride away if I missed the ship. In any case, I like to make sure there is at least one more flight on the same airline arriving AFTER mine, so if my luggage doesn't make my flight, it has a good chance of making the next.

 

That said, I fly Continental a lot, and they have only once lost my luggage - it was a poorly packaged box of belgian beer glasses that I checked at the last minute in Brussels when I was very late for my flight. My bags made it, but not the glassware. It turned up weeks later in Houston, with all glasses intact. Ironically, we lost one glass when they double-boxed it and shipped it to me UPS. :)

[IMNiles]

Day 2 Sun - Nanaimo, BC

 

When people think "big ship" they almost certainly are thinking of Freedom of the Seas, or Voyager and one of her sisters. Make no mistake, though, Radiance is a big ship too. Weighing in at 90,000 tons, Radiance of the seas is a "Panamax" ship - the largest size that can still fit through the panama canal (barely). Although most people think of the Radiance class as having come before Voyager, that's not strictly true. Voyager first sailed in 1999, two years before Radiance first put to sea in 2001. Over the next several years, both families would grow to 4 (Radiance) or 5 (Voyager) ships before the Ultra Voyagers Freedom and Liberty came along. Spiritually, though, I think that most people place Radiance squarely between Vision and Voyager. You don't have to be on board long to find out why.

 

Like their smaller Vision cousins, Radiance ships are filled with glass. Everywhere you look, there are views of the sea. Even the elevators are glass, and one bank of them faces a giant expanse of windows, affording an unparalleled view of the sea. The light-filled centrum spans 8 decks, and completely dispels any notion that ships have to be small or cramped. On Voyager ships, the center of the action is clearly the promenade. While it's an architectural wonder, and a great central focal point for the ship, it is also almost completely divorced from the sea. Because it's surrounded by cabins, the promenade does not feature windows to the outside (with the possible exception of cafe promenade, I don't recall). While it's bright and airy, all of the light is artificial. Not so Radiance. The Centrum is clearly where it's at. There is seating on virtually all the decks that is near or overlooks the centrum, and one side is dominated by glass windows and the glass elevators, so that it's always easy to find a great vantage of the sea. The champagne bar, cafe lattetudes, the centrum bar - all overlook the centrum and have commanding views of the sea outside. The library, business center, royal caribbean online, explorers court, and yacht club (the latter two are essentially seating alcoves) all overlook the centrum. The centrum is quite literally the center of your life on the ship. I found that as the week went by, I always gravitated here.

 

Nanaimo is a tender port - there is no large dock, so the boat anchors offshore and ferries passengers to shore on several of the lifeboats that double as shore tenders. Since there is usually quite a rush to make the early tenders, and because it was raining, I decided to wait it out and get some work done. I found a seat at the centrum bar, and had a lovely conversation with the bartender who would become "my" bartender for this ship (I always choose one) - Marwin. He was a super guy, and always took good care of me (ditto his partner-in-crime, Mark). I spent the morning working and chatting with Marwin about this and that, and helping him answer the perpetual "where do we get tender tickets" questions. Those wanting to get off the ship in the first few hours needed to go to the Colony Club to get tickets, then wait for their number to be called before they made their way down to the tenders. By about 11:00, the lines had cleared and anyone who wanted to go could go. I wish I could say it had stopped raining, but 1 out of 2 aint bad. :) I grabbed my umbrella and headed ashore.

 

The tender ride was smooth and uneventful. Along the walk into to town, there were friendly locals who were there to direct you to whatever interested you -- a nice touch. I wish I could say that I saw the best the town has to offer, but really all I did was find my way to a local pub and do some more work over a local brew. The rain did eventually clear, and for those of us who suffered through brutally hot summers, the cool weather was really kind of a nice change. The "pub" was okay. It was clearly some kind of chain, and by the look of the shuttered local pub next door, it had done a fairly effective job of driving out the smaller competition.

 

The last tender back was at about 4:30, but since there really wasn't much to do, I got back to the ship in plenty of time. Tonight was the first formal night, and also the night of the captain's reception, so I had to get cleaned up anyway. I opted not to rent a tux this time, and just went in khakis and a blue blazer (gasp!). I was certainly not alone. Not only was the dining room not anywhere near full, it was far less formal that I am used to seeing. It's not like everyone was in jeans, but it was hardly a tux-fest either.

 

You can't see me doing it, but I am now referring to the compass from that night, because I can't remember what happened next. I *think* what happened is that my tablemates and I just wandered up to the viking crown where the crew was putting on an "abba" and "not quite village people" show, which was fairly entertaining. Like on Vision-class ships, the Viking Crown doubles as the nighttime disco, and there was a fairly good crowd this night. Busy enough to be lively, but not so busy we couldn't find a table. We apparently missed the "celebrity showtime" which was "dynamic entertainer" Tony Tillman. Everyone who I talked to said it was a great show. Perhaps one of them will chime in and tell us about it (hint, hint).

 

About 1am or so I pronounced Sunday a succcess, and turned in.

 

More later.

[ladylawyer]

Dan, I'm really enjoying reliving the cruise through your review. Keep 'em coming. When people ask me about the cruise, I'm just directing them to your review. It's great! ... But you haven't told them about the Cookie ****, yet ... ;) (No cookies for you!!! )

[baby]

Hi

 

Can you tell me what kind of music was playing in the lounges.

 

Which lounge had the more "upbeat" music - were there people in the disco?

 

How are the casinos? were they crowded.

 

thanks

carol in connecticut

[IMNiles]

Hi

 

Can you tell me what kind of music was playing in the lounges.

 

Which lounge had the more "upbeat" music - were there people in the disco?

 

How are the casinos? were they crowded.

 

 

There was a great variety of music all over the ship. The centrum was usually a strings group, a piano, or a fellow playing classical guitar. Schooner bar had their regular piano player/entertainer, the house band played all kinds of different music in various lounges (jazz, standards, 50s rock, ballroom, etc), and there was dj "dance" music up in the viking crown, err, sorry, "StarQuest" each night. A quick glance at my compasses shows quite a bit of variety throughout the week : string classics, standards&dancing, piano melodies, piano entertainer, late night piano, top discs music, dance music, classical guitar, ballroom dancing, show band, romantic dance hour, "top 40 hits", blue note jazz and rat pack dance hour. Many of these were just for an hour or two, so be sure to check your compass. If you're looking for your typical dj club dance scene, Starquest is the place for you at night (From 10 or 11, depending on the night).

 

There is one casino that was never crowded that I could see. You might have to wait a bit for a spot at a $5 blackjack table, but otherwise it was pretty quiet in there. Of course, the casino was not open while we were in port.

[IMNiles]

Thanks for popping in, Lorna! I haven't forgotten about our friend at Cafe Lattetudes, but I'm pretty sure that didn't happen until "today" day 3 or tomorrow, so I'm just getting to it! If that weren't enough, don't forget that today was also "fun with corkage fees!" Why don't I dive right in?

 

Day 3 Mon - Victoria, BC

 

 

I've said before that some of my favorite sailing is through the strait sailing in and out of Victoria. The ship moves very slowly, the water is like glass, and it is just unutterably peaceful. I slept a little later than I intended and missed the sail in (perhaps it was dark, I'm not sure) but if you find yourself on a ship in this region make sure to get out on deck and enjoy the view. Land is fairly nearby, and often shrouded in a little mist. If you're lucky, you'll see dolphins and/or whales swimming along. Simply stunning.

 

Victoria is a cute little town, but I had been here before, so I wasn't in a huge hurry to get off the ship. I waited until late morning before ambling off. The pier is set a ways away from the main "downtown" and there were shuttle busses available, though I can't say what, if anything, they cost as I decided to walk to town. The weather was just lovely, perhaps in the 60s or 70s, and it just seemed like a perfect day for a stroll. There's a sidewalk along the waterfront that runs to a park, and any number of roads that cut inland to the main part of town, passing through some very cute residential neighborhoods. Having come off of a particularly brutal summer at home in Phoenix, I was thrilled to be able to walk around outside for awhile. I stopped for coffee on my way in, but I'm guessing it's perhaps a 30 minute walk of quite low difficulty. The big attractions in Victoria are the Butchart Gardens (many people go for English Tea here), Craigdarroch castle, and the Empress Hotel, and there's a fairly booming business in whale-watching and other boat-based sightseeing. Having a fair bit of work to do, I headed to the Stain internet cafe on Yates, where unlimited internet is available to laptop users for a very reasonable C$2.50. No trip to British-flavored Victoria without a visit to a pub, so I made sure to save time for a beer at the Irish Times pub before heading back to the ship. All aboard was 4:30. I walked back, but I did run into some folks at the pub who were catching a shuttle back, so I know they were available. If you forget to spend all your Canadian currency, there is a little gift shop right at the pier where you can take care of that before getting back on the ship.

 

Day 3 was the day of the meeting. Not only was our Meet&Mingle this afternoon, it was also the first of the non-sanctioned friends of Dorothy meetings (check the board in the library if you're looking for one of these, as they don't like to print them in the compass). I spent so much time chatting at the M&M I missed most of the pretty scenery outside, but I did hear from another CC'er who saw a whale. Today was also our first encounter with the staff member at Cafe Lattetudes that Lorna and I affectionately referred to as the cookie.... well, actually I can't say it because it will get bleeped. Perhaps the phrase "no cookies for you!" will make it clearer. Anyway, I *love* Royal Caribbean cookies. I must gain 5 pounds in cookies alone every time I board one of these ships, and anyone familiar with the lattetudes coffee shop knows they have a fairly tempting assortment of them on display. Now, understand that these are the very same cookies that are available up in the buffet, the Solarium cafe, or would be given away at the Promenade Cafe on Voyager, so it did not seem unreasonable when the ladies from my table asked the clerk for a few cookies (the buffet is a fair hike from here, 7 decks up or so). They were frankly surprised when this one-man keeper of the bottom line informed them that they could only have cookies if they bought a coffee. Lorna was happy to oblige, but alas, even that was not enough, because they apparently wanted more cookies than he was willing to give them with the purchase of only one coffee (apparently they adhere to a very strict cookie-to-coffee ratio). I'll tell you, I sleep better at night knowing that he's doing such a good job protecting the value of my RCL stock. ;)

 

This would not be the only time we tasted controversy. It was this very same night that we also had our first run-in with the new liquor rules. If you read these boards with any regularity, you know that the new policy states that no alcoholic beverages of any kind can be brought on board. Knowing this in advance, I ordered a few bottles of wine from gifts&gear through my travel agent. Apparently, these bottles are intended for in-room consumption only, because when I brought one of these bottles to dinner I was informed that I would need to pay a $12 corkage fee (since it was only a $20 bottle of wine, I opted to leave it unopened). Now perhaps it's just me, but I simply did not grasp that when they say corkage applies to all bottles not bought "on board" they mean LITERALLY bought on board. Bought from RCCL is not good enough. I don't really mind the policy so much -- it is, after all, their ship. My objection was primarily that this was not made clear to me either at the time of purchase, or when the wine was delivered to my stateroom. Now I know.

 

Dinner in the dining room was lovely as usual (I think the only 'bad' thing we had was the completely inexplicable Lobster "bisque"). Our waiter Abel and his assistant (whose name escapes me at the moment) were starting to warm up to us now, and I think we lingered for quite awhile before wandering out for the evening's entertainment, which was heat #1 of the Karaoke Superstar competition, in the Colony Club. I think the Colony Club/Schooner bar complex was my favorite space on the ship. Positioned on deck 6 aft, just around the corner from the midship stairs, is the long-and-narrow Schooner Bar. Decorated in a nautical theme, The Schooner bar is home to a host of television sets, and piano entertainment each night. It also serves as the gateway to the two onboard added-fee specialty restaurants, Chops and Portofino. Just beyond the Schooner Bar is the Bombay Billiard Club, in which sits two of the most technically advanced gaming devices at sea - self levelling pool tables! I never quite got around to playing, but play at these adults-only tables was apparently free, any time the Schooner Bar was open (that's where the equipment was kept). The remaining space is loosely divided into several multi-purpose areas, including the Calcutta card room and Jakarta lounge. The Card room is stocked with an assortment of cards and games, and several of the tables in the lounge are equipped with chess and backgammon games. During the day, these areas play host to activities from bingo to religious services, and at night the whole space is given over to everything from music and dancing to the infamous Quest gameshow. Or Karaoke. Now, karaoke can either be really good or really bad (which can still be good if you've got the right attitude :)), and I think everyone who was there will agree that the performances tonight were really top-notch. It was thoroughly entertaining, even if the judges didn't vote me through to the finals.. (grin)

 

Another fabulous day aboard Radiance of the Seas!

[IMNiles]

Day 4 Tue 19 - Astoria, Oregon

 

Sorry it's taking me so long to get these out. I don't actually know if anyone is reading them, but it's fun to remember the trip nonetheless. So even if nobody reads them, I still get to relive it! Thanks for indulging me. :)

 

After my crushing defeat (grin) at Karaoke Superstar the previous night, I headed off to what was going to be one of the best night's sleep I'd had in a long time. I always sleep well on cruise ships, even on the older bedding (although I must admit that one advantage of being alone is that I don't have to sleep on the crack ). The gentle rocking just puts me right to sleep. This night, we had the added advantage of finally moving into the open water, so the motion was much more pronounced. I must admit that one of the reasons I like this west-coast itinerary is that the seas tend to be rougher than would be typical in the Caribbean. I'm not saying it was rough, per se, but there was enough motion to remind us all we were at sea, which is what sailing is all about if you ask me. I don't consider myself to be truly at sea until the first time I have to ask myself as I walk down the corridor - did the ship just move, or have I had too much to drink? Certainly last night I saw more behind-the-ear patches, but nobody really looked actually ill that I could see.

 

Astoria, Oregon feels like a little slice of small-town America. The ship docks in a fairly industrial area, which doesn't give much away about the town -- not much to see from the ship except the port area. The dock near the ship is set up as an outdoor market - local vendors showing handicrafts, local products, and, inexplicably, elk burgers. Some of the items were very cute, like some little wooden puzzle toys and some attractive jewelry. A nice lady approached me right away and asked me if I was going into town. I said yes, and she slapped a "special visitor" sticker on my shirt, saying I'd need that to get into town. I have no idea if she was a local trying to be friendly or another passenger trying to save me paying for a ticket (I have no idea if they were free or not) - either way, it was appreciated. I ran into LadyLawer and AllyLaw, and we rode the bus together into town. Before hopping the bus, I also grabbed a tourist-aimed paper that had a handy map of local attractions and listing of things to see and do. My agenda was pretty simple - I just wanted to sample a local beer or two. The ladies had decided they wanted to visit the Flavel house and/or visit a tearoom, both major local attractions, and I overheard some other folks who were going to go up the hill to see the "Astoria Column," a 125 foot column (that you can climb on steps) from which the view of the surrounding countryside is apparently quite nice. The bus dropped us on a small downtown "main street" that looked like it was right out of the sixties or seventies - very charming. A clutch of locals were waiting to greet us and give us directions to whatever we wanted to see. The ladies and I parted ways agreeing to meet later after they had their tea.

 

Meanwhile, I was directed to perhaps the least interesting bar in Astoria. In all fairness, the fact that it was midday on a Tuesday probably didn't help. At any rate, I had a lovely local ale, and struck up a conversation with a local fisherman, who had just come in from work for the day. I call him local, but apparently he, like most fisherman in the area, is more of a journeyman and tends to wander around wherever the fish and his feet lead him. Everyone was very nice (by everyone, I mean the two people I met in the bar), but I decided to try my hand at a different locale - I headed off to one of the other watering holes pointed out by the friendly guides. As it turns out, the first bar was not the least interesting bar in Astoria. the second one was (grin). My second attempt was largely a failure. The bartender was nice enough, but the three other occupants of the bar were clearly just-turned-21 and on a mission to get as trashed as possible - it's probably just as well they were keeping their own company. Thankfully, it was then that the ladies reached me by phone and rescued me. They had found a local brewpub that looked like just the ticket, so I did the unthinkable -- left a drink behind -- and headed out to meet them.

 

The wet dog cafe was exactly what I wish I'd found the first time around. A friendly spot with both locals and tourists, and an actual wet dog wandering around the patio (the waitress disclaimed any knowledge about the dog). I had the nicely hoppy "bitter bitch" IPA (did that get bleeped? rhymes with 'witch', and I'm sure it refers to a dog) . Ally tried the sampler selection and I think was a bit surprised at how many of them she actually liked. The sausage and cheese plate I ordered was a perfect accompaniment to the brew. We opted to sit inside, but there was a fairly well-populated patio outside that looked like it would be a great place to spend an afternoon. The patio (and our window) faced the street, and just beyond the water. The local historical trolley, which apparently runs a fair distance down the waterfront, ran directly outside.

 

On our way back to catch the bus we were charmed by the local shops, most blissfully one-of-a-kind and a world apart from the gap-and-starbucks kind of shopping we've all become used to. To walk down the main street was to step back in time twenty years or more, and it was utterly charming. According to the bartender at the first bar, it's only been recently that the "outside world" has discovered Astoria, so this stuck-in-time character may not last. I for one am glad to have seen it before it becomes just like everyplace else. The local chamber of commerce really went out of their way to make sure we were entertained, and their efforts were much appreciated. Alas, as is typical on most cruises, the day onshore ends fairly early. We all had to be back on board by 5:30, and I had more work to do, so we rode the bus back to the ship and parted ways until dinnertime.

 

Like most of Royal Caribbean's newer ships, Radiance has two specialty added-fee restaurants for those looking for something a little different. Chops and Portofino can be reached through the Schooner Bar on deck 6, and cost a fixed $20 and $15 per person, respectively, for dinner. Despite sitting at a large table for 10 in the dining room, it was just the three ladies and I who actually showed up each night, so it was easy to just transport the whole party to Chops for the evening. The level of service in the regular dining room is already quite high, but the specialty restaurants really take this up another notch. Our server was enthusiastic and attentive, and of course the food was excellent to boot. Chops is, as you might expect from the name, a steakhouse. Like your typical steakhouse, the menu is heavy on beef. Yes, there are a couple of items on the menu for those who want something that clucks or swims, but the star here is obviously the one that moos. Also like typical steakhouses, the steaks are huge. Really really big. Even the 'petite' filet looks like enough to feed a small family. Unlike your typical Mortons or Ruth's Chris, though, the side dishes aren't extra. Everything you care to order is included in your $20 cover charge, and if the four side dishes we ordered to share are any indication, they're all worth trying. I ordered a porterhouse, which was predictably huge, and very, very tasty. The porterhouse is a great choice for people like me who can't decide, since it's composed of both the tenderloin (from which filet mignon is cut), and the top loin, which is a particularly flavorful cut. It makes for a great combination. To be honest, I was so engrossed in my own steak I don't remember what the ladies ordered, but they seemed to be enjoying it a great deal.

 

Chops is not a place for a quick dinner. Dinners in the regular dining room are already fairly leisurely, but dinner at a specialty restaurant is positively glacial. It hardly felt like it, but more than two hours passed before I looked at my watch and realized that we were about to miss the Quest! Now, I'm not going to spoil the quest for those who haven't been -- there seems to be an unwritten rule of secrecy about it, and I'm not going to be the one to break it. Suffice it to say that it's a kind of treasure hunt game, is always entertaining, and is for adults only. Our server was very sympathetic, and would not hear of us leaving without dessert (we were stuffed), so she prepared four plates of dessert for us, and covered them with plastic wrap so we could take it with us. AllyLaw and Bella went out ahead to stake out seats while LadyLawyer and I settled up. Now the compass is fairly clear that your $20 cover includes gratuity, but we both agreed that the service was excellent (our server even went to the dining room to get a bottle of wine that was not available in Chops), so we added a gratuity in addition to our cover. If I had thought there was any chance I would eat it, I would have taken the leftovers, but it's hard to reheat leftovers with just a hairdryer. :)

 

On Radiance, the Quest is held in the Colony Club, which is thankfully practically right next to Chops. After settling up we dashed out, laden with desserts and cutlery for four, and arrived to find the game already in progress. Since I can't tell you what happened during the game, I'll just have to skip right to the end -- the part where we won! I should admit, though, that I had absolutely nothing to do with it. We met up with "Shameless" Dan and his buddy Jim, and they and the ladies really stepped up to the plate. All I had to do was watch and laugh. This is only the second Quest I've ever attended, and although it was very entertaining, I will say that it was a bit more low key (if Quest could be described as low key) than the one I attended on Voyager (ALSO on the winning team, natch :) ), and very, very short. I think it was over inside 40 minutes. Most of the crowd stuck around for the "50's and 60's dance party" - and it was great fun watching people of all ages really "shake it" on the dance floor. Me, I was too full to do much of anything. Well, almost anything - I did eventually find room for dessert. (urp)

 

Astoria Oregon may not be the biggest or most interesting port on the West coast, but it was charming nonetheless, and that combined with a fabulous dinner and a very entertaining nightcap was enough to make this yet another successful day aboard Radiance of the Seas.

[megr1125]

Dont stop now!

 

Hey, I thought I was alone on the cookie cop issue!! We were on Serenade the day after you left and I was annoyed that latte tudes charged for cookies well..normal coffee...

 

i wanted coconut cookies and WJ didn;t have them......my head waiter got mom and i a whole big plate...we finally finished them at the airport last thursday! (we saved them in a baggie-no mold!!) woo hoo.....

 

 

ok.....more please!!!! Great review so far...and I am reading every word to my mom too!!!

[cruzingduo]

IMNiles,

 

Great review, please continue. I had never even heard of Astoria Oregon before we booked the Alaska cruise for Sept 2007. Did I read your post correctly to say that it was $20 extra in Chops but only $15 for Portifino's?

I thought they were both $20. Sounds like you enjoyed your day in Astoria.

I anxious to hear more about your trip.

[IMNiles]

IMNiles,

 

Great review, please continue. I had never even heard of Astoria Oregon before we booked the Alaska cruise for Sept 2007. Did I read your post correctly to say that it was $20 extra in Chops but only $15 for Portifino's?

I thought they were both $20. Sounds like you enjoyed your day in Astoria.

I anxious to hear more about your trip.

 

I didn't eat in Portofino, but the compass I have right here says $20 for Chops and $15 for Portofino. That said, I believe they were both $20 the last time I was on a ship that had both, so perhaps it varies by ship.

 

Maybe LadyLawyer or Ally will chime in with their thoughts, but even though it wasn't much to look at, I guess I was just charmed by the "everyday" quality of Astoria, and everyone was so nice. So many places you go now are all chain stores, and it was just kind of refreshing to visit someplace "real."

[ladylawyer]

Hello! Ally really wanted to attend a "high tea," while we were in Victoria. Unfortunately, we arrived at the Empress Hotel too late (the first available seating was 4:30, which was the time we had to be back on board the ship). So, I promised her another shot at tea in Astoria. We'd considered the Flavel House, but a local recommended "A Victorian Tea." It was a charming little tea room, with a little shop in front, that accepted walk-ins. There were no specified sittings. Also, you had several options, from tea and scones to afternoon tea, with the cute little sandwiches and such. It turned out that the sandwiches weren't so little and, thus, provided to be an ample lunch for us.

 

While waiting for Niles, we spied the Wet Dog Cafe, which is housed with the Astoria Brewing Company. In addition to the "Bitter Bitch," that Niles enjoyed, they had other colorful names, such as "Shark Spit" and "Da Blond Bomb." Having never acquired a taste for the brew, I opted for coffee (fresh off my experience with the "Coffee N***" in Lattetudes).

 

Astoria has an area called the Riverwalk. The Wet Dog Cafe is just off the Riverwalk. Next time I'm in town, I'm definitely going to take a stroll there. It also appears that inflation has come to Astoria (along with the big ships), as we noticed condos going for $250. That's inexpensive, for San Francisco prices ... but fairly pricey for such a small burg, IMHO. However, I did notice posters advertising ballet, opera, and some lecture series in the book store we visited. It appears that Astoria is growing up.

 

Thanks, Dan, for this wonderful Review. I'm enjoying every word.

 

PS: Meg, did I read right? They're charging for cookies at Lattetudes, on the Serenade? :eek:

[Bella930]

It didn't take long once I hit land and got back to the "real world" to loose that wonderful "cruise" feeling (you know the one, no cares, no worries, no calories). I enjoy reading your postings so I can remind myself that it wasn't a dream! I can't wait for the "next chapter", keep up the good work! Cindy

[tugboat]

Waiting on the next day thanks for posting the review.

[IMNiles]

Day 5 Wed 20 - At sea

 

Ahh. Nothing like a day at sea to catch up on sleep, reading, and generally recover from all the running around in port. Looking at the compass, there was no shortage of things to do - countless trivia games, exercise classes, arts and crafts, sports competitions, you name it. On the pool deck they even had a belly flop competition. Today was also an art auction day, which I always find fairly annoying. I understand that they're trying to drum up business, but trying to jam all those people into the centrum for an auction just makes it harder for me to get through. Not to mention, it kind of spoils the ability to sit within earshot, because all the auction patter is fairly distracting. For me, this day was mostly about work.

 

One minor disappointment on this cruise was that it was a fair bit cooler than when I took the same sailing in reverse in the spring. This meant that it was just a bit too chilly for me to be comfortable sitting on the promenade for very long. This is a shame, because the promenade deck is one probably my favorite place to hang out. It has many advantages - there is ample seating, all of which faces the sea, so the view is excellent. It's outdoors, so you can hear the ocean, but it's still more sheltered than the open deck. Finally, it's almost always completely empty. Once in awhile, a smoker will come out for a puff, or a pack of deck-walkers will saunter by, but by and large you are on your own. On most RCCL ships, the promenade deck goes all the way around the ship, so it's a great place to get up and stroll, too, if you have some hard-core thinking to do and don't want to pay too much attention to where you're walking. As on Voyager, you do have to mount some steps and change decks near the bow (which will take you up to the helipad), but it's eminently possible to just keep walking around in circles to your heart's content. If you stop aft, you can look off the back of the ship at the wake and see the view all those lucky aft balconies get. Forward, you can ALMOST get close enough to the front to have your very own "I'm king of the world!" moment (note : I don't recommend actually trying to climb on or over the railing - that'll just spoil it for the rest of us when they decide it's a hazard because some twit climbed over and fell off). At night, the promenade takes on a bit of an otherworldy feel - you can hear the ocean, and if you look overboard you can see just that part of it illuminated by the ship's lights. The later it gets, the less likely you are to encounter somebody else, and the peaceful isolation is quite profound. I used to love to go up to the helipad at night and look at the stars, but since the recent rash of 'accidents' at sea, I've found that they often close off the helipad at night (it can be very windy).

 

Since the promenade deck wasn't going to work this time, my mission was to find someplace comfortable to work where I could still have a good view. Of course there are no shortage of places to sit on this ship, but I was looking for one with a direct view of the sea - so many times there's a window nearby, but you have to turn around to see it. As I noted before, the centrum was dominated by the art auction for much of the early afternoon, but up on Deck 5 in Cafe Lattetudes there is a nice variety of seating options. Among them are a small number of narrow tables against the outside glass, with chairs that face out to the sea - perfect! I could have my promenade deck view, without shivering in the wind, with the added bonus of having hot coffee available just steps away! :) I spent much of the day glued to this seat.

 

I was feeling fairly solitary this day, so I tracked down my dinner table-mates and informed them I would not be joining them for dinner. It was a formal night, and though I normally never miss a formal night, I just didn't feel like going through all the trouble. So today I ate on my own schedule. I ambled back to the Seaview Cafe for a snack mid-day, and had dinner in the buffet. Now the opinions you'll get about the buffet food will vary widely. Perhaps it's my midwestern upbringing, but I'm fairly fond of buffets. I don't go in expecting five-star cuisine, but even so I don't think I've ever really had a bad buffet experience on a ship. Sure, once in awhile there's something that isn't nearly is good as it looked, and sometimes it's downright gross, but that's the great thing about a buffet - you can just go get something else! I think it must have been a prime rib night in the dining room, because there was prime rib in the buffet. Was it great prime rib? no. But it was fine. I really only wanted a small piece anyway so I could graze some of the other fare that was available. The selection was quite good - they even had make-your-own pizzas that you could build yourself and hand off to someone behind the counter to have baked (I didn't try this). I was able to construct exactly the meal I wanted - a couple bowls of soup, some salad, a bit of this and that, without necessarily driving my waiter crazy. It was perfect for the day's mood.

 

I know I haven't said much about the production and headliner shows on this trip, and that's because I didn't go to them. Not a one. It wasn't so much for overt lack of interest, but I always seemed to be doing something else when the show was on, and not particularly inclined to stop and go back to the showroom. I heard, through the grapevine, that the vocal performer on the first night (Tony Tillman) was excellent, and Pierce the CD seemed very keen on tonight's show, "Piano Man." Even so, I just couldn't muster the interest this time. In the past, my experience with the shows has been mixed. I almost always enjoy the comedy or solo performer shows, and the production numbers are hit and miss. It just kind of depends on my mood at the time. I will say, though, that I did TRY to see the performance last night by Yacov Noy ("visual comedy"), but 5 or 10 minutes into it I was just bored, so I left.

 

In addition to "Piano Man," tonight was also the "Love and Marriage" game show, which I almost never miss. Like any audience-participation show, whether L&M works is dependent largely on the contestants. As usual, the Cruise Director will choose three couples from the audience - typically one just married, one married for a very long time, and one somewhere in the middle. The game is run pretty much like "The Newlywed Game" on tv - one half of each couple is escorted off-stage while the other answers a round of questions. When their partner comes back, they answer the same questions, and points are awarded when the answers match. Sometimes, this is a laugh riot as some hapless husband struggles to remember his wife's bra size, or winces as his wife describes their sex life as being like the movie "mission impossible." This night, unfortunately, it never quite came together. It was entertaining enough, and Pierce tried mightily to hold it together, but it just never quite got critical mass. The 'older' couple was sweet, but the husband was very quiet and not very forthcoming, and it just seems that some of the usual energy was missing. I guess what I'm saying is if you saw this show and had decided it wasn't for you, you may want to try again on another sailing, because sometimes it's the show that everyone is talking about all week.

 

The evening was capped off by the second heat of Karaoke Idol. The competition wasn't as fierce tonight, and I attribute this mostly to the fact that Karaoke started at 11:30 or so, which was only fifteen minutes before the viewing of the Gala midnight buffet, which was also tonight. Not that I'm complaining - the reduced competition allowed me to secure a spot in the finals. :) I missed the midnight buffet tonight, but I'm sure it was just as lovely as it always is. For first-timers, of course, the gala buffet is a must-see. For the first half hour or so, starting a bit before midnight, it is strictly "don't touch" so that everyone can get a look and take pictures - there is usually a very large crowd waiting outside the dining room before it opens. There would be an assortment of ice sculptures, as well as table after table of artfully displayed food. The carved fruits and vegetables are always entertaining, as are the bread creations. Some of the cakes are architectural wonders. In my personal opinion, the gala buffet is more for looking and not so much for eating. It's not that the food isn't good -- I think it's just that I'm not usually hungry enough by midnight to enjoy it.

 

By the time Karaoke was over, I was pretty bushed. We were due in San Francisco the next day (well, technically later the same morning), and I had plans for breakfast in town. I checked with Guest Relations for an update on when they thought we'd be arriving in San Francisco, hoping that we would be pulling in around sunrise, but it turns out that we were due to arrive in San Francisco sometime around 4 or 5 in the morning (long before the advertised 7am arrival). Some of my favorite cruise moments are sailing under bridges, but this time I simply could not stay awake for it. I was in bed and asleep long before we arrived, but must have been subliminally aware of a change in our motion, because I woke up at pretty much the very instant we were sailing under the Golden Gate bridge. I turned over in bed and was able to watch out my window as we slowly passed under the San Francisco landmark. The bridge is even prettier at night than in the day - all lit up, and every bit is beautiful from below as she is from above. LadyLawyer had asked me to call her if I was awake when we sailed past, so she was also able to catch a view of the bridge from her aft balcony as it retreated. Two minutes later, I was asleep.

[EggDropErin]

Wow! Great, detailed review. Thanks!

[PH8]

 

This would not be the only time we tasted controversy. It was this very same night that we also had our first run-in with the new liquor rules. If you read these boards with any regularity, you know that the new policy states that no alcoholic beverages of any kind can be brought on board. Knowing this in advance, I ordered a few bottles of wine from gifts&gear through my travel agent. Apparently, these bottles are intended for in-room consumption only, because when I brought one of these bottles to dinner I was informed that I would need to pay a $12 corkage fee (since it was only a $20 bottle of wine, I opted to leave it unopened). Now perhaps it's just me, but I simply did not grasp that when they say corkage applies to all bottles not bought "on board" they mean LITERALLY bought on board. Bought from RCCL is not good enough. I don't really mind the policy so much -- it is, after all, their ship. My objection was primarily that this was not made clear to me either at the time of purchase, or when the wine was delivered to my stateroom. Now I know.

 

Thats crazy.......I wouldnt think there would be a corkage fee.............heck,when you order them from home,you have the option of sending it to your stateroom or dining room table...........I doubt they would make you pay the corkage fee if it was sent to the dining room.............they shouldnt if you had it sent to your cabin first...........Next time,I'll just bring my own corkscrew.hahah!

 

 

GREAT review!!

[NEW 2 CRUISIN]

AWESOME trip report IMNILES!!!

 

I am taking my first cruise on the Radiance in November and your report really makes me feel like I know the place already! HAHA!

 

I'll be in the Caribbean, but the West Coast trip sounds like something we'd like to do someday soon!

 

Thanks again for sharing!

 

:)

[KatWI]

THANKS for the wonderful review! We're booked on the Radiance in Jan for our FIRST cruise!

 

I LOVE reading about the ship!

 

Thanks so much for taking the time!

[MJonTravel]

Thanks so much for your wonderful review. Now I'm really looking forward to our November 19th sailing on Radiance! Our first on the Radiance class of ships.

[crazylarry]

Niles:

 

I like your writing style very much. Your review transported me to Radiance.

 

Keep up the nice work, glad you had a great time. I'm sailing out on October 28 for 8 nights. Take care, I hope to read your reviews again soon.

 

Crazy Larry:)

[IMNiles]

Day 6 Thu - San Francisco, CA

 

San Francisco is one of my favorite cities. It's big enough to be vibrant and exciting, yet small enough that it feels manageable. There's a little something for everyone here - eco-tourists can go across the Golden Gate to tour the Marin Highlands and visit the Muir Woods, hard-core shoppers can visit Union Square and Pier 39, and of course we can't forget Alcatraz. It's impossible to see all of San Francisco in a single day, so it's best not even to try. Pick a region that suits you and get to know it in depth. Cruise ships in San Francisco dock at Pier 35, just steps from the ultra-touristy Pier 39. It's a shame that most visitors never make it past Fisherman's Wharf, Pier 39, and their collection of chain stores and chain eateries. To the area's credit, it does boast The Aquarium of the Bay, and a couple of good restaurants if you look hard enough, but the real San Francisco is so much more engaging. Why not head up to swanky Nob hill and enjoy the architecture, and pop into Chinatown for a lunch and a little adventure? Walk off those extra trips to the buffet by climbing to the Coit Tower, or do the reverse and sample a little bit of Italy in North Beach and little Italy. If you're looking for some real local color, head down market street to the Castro and Noe Valley, where rainbow flags outnumber the stars and stripes. Wherever you go, take the time to just wander and soak it in. Now I'm not saying there are no bad neighborhoods - you may not want to spend all day wandering the tenderloin for instance, but the good areas certainly outnumber the bad, and even if you find yourself someplace a little down-on-the-heels, San Francisco is so compact that if you keep walking, it won't be long before you're someplace else entirely.

 

I know that today is a long day in port, so I'm not in a super hurry to get off, but I also have a breakfast date I've been looking forward to all week, so I don't dally too much. It's become a regular tradition of mine when I visit San Francisco to visit Orphan Andy's in the Castro for breakfast. Andy's isn't much to look at - it's a tiny greasy spoon with seating for perhaps 20 or 30, right where the historic "F" streetcar turns around at Castro and Market. I suppose the food is fairly typical "diner" fare, but inexplicably, I'm extremely fond of the biscuits and gravy. So many places manage to botch either the biscuits or the gravy that I'm willing to make a destination of any place that can get it right. So, it's with a spring in my step that I disembark, walk through the cavernous port building, and exit onto the Embarcadero. I could grab a cab or tram here, but I opt instead to turn left and take a brisk walk down the Embarcadero to Market street.

 

The Embarcadero was not always a pleasant place to walk. It wasn't that log ago that it was home to an imposing double-decker freeway that blocked out much of the view, but with the help of the Loma Prieta earthquake in 1989 and the tireless efforts of Mayor Agnos, it was demolished in favor of the wide, inviting thoroughfare we see today. There is ample public transportation, but it's easy enough to walk from Pier 35 to Market Street, which is more or less even with Piers 1-5 (perhaps 1.5 miles away). The renaissance along the waterfront is ongoing. All along the Embarcadero, the old pier buildings are being remodeled and repurposed, and nowhere is this more evident than the Ferry Building at the foot of Market Street, which is now home to interesting shops and a thriving farmers market (most days). A quick turn right on Market Street takes you by the shopping and eateries at the Embarcadero Center, and into the heart of the city. While it's technically possible to walk down Market Street all the way to the Castro, it is nearly 3 miles, so I opt instead to hop the historic F Tram, which will take me straight there for a bit less than two bucks. Now, technically I could have grabbed the F all the way back on the Embarcadero, but I figured I had to get *some* exercise, and I so enjoy the walk along the waterfront, peeking in the old port/pier buildings.

 

Had I chosen to continue walking down Market Street, it wouldn't have been long before I came across one or more of the famous San Francisco cable cars. The lines at peak times can be a bit intimidating, particularly if you try to grab the California or Powell line at Market. They're certainly worth riding at least once, and if you're into such things, the cable car Museum just a few blocks from the top of the California line is a real gem. This trip, I confine myself to the equally historic "F" line tram. The F line is a rail-based tram that runs down the center of much of Market Street from the Castro to the Embarcardero. From there it turns left and heads towards fisherman's wharf. The cars themselves are historic streetcars that have been "rescued" from all over the world. Each car is unique, and bears a sign describing it's provenance. Make no mistake, despite being historic, these streetcars are not tourist traps - they represent a vital part of the excellent San Francisco public transport network, and you will almost certainly be rubbing elbows with a wide cross section of people, both locals and tourists alike. I always enjoy the view of the city passing by as I make my way down to the rainbow-draped Castro.

 

The Castro district is centered around the intersection of Market and Castro streets, and has the reputation of being one of the gayest places in America, but this doesn't mean it can't be enjoyed by everyone. Radiating out from this intersection is a vibrant collection of shops and restaurants, as well as (along with the adjacent Noe Valley) as some of the most charmingly renovated neighborhoods in the city. The nearby twin peaks offer a commanding view of the city, and the Castro Theater (on Castro Street near Market) is a true old-time "movie palace" that is simply stunning, and boasts a mighty Wurlitzer organ to boot (the organ is operational, and played before every performance). None of this is why I'm here, though. I'm here for the breakfast. The venerable streetcar comes to a stop virtually at Orphan Andy's doorstep, as the driver calls out "end of the line." (if you want to keep riding, just walk up the line of cars to the one in front, it's the next to go). It's a weekday morning, so the window table is open (bonus!), but the people watching isn't as good as it would be after dark, when this neighborhood really comes alive (Andy's is open all night). Breakfast is just as good as I remembered.

 

Were I at leisure, I would spend the rest of the day wandering the surrounding neighborhoods and perhaps hopping the muni over to the Haight-Asbury district, which despite my many visits to this fine city I still have not seen. Alas, I am working today, so I make my way to the congenial Cafe Flore on Market, and avail myself of their hospitality (and free wifi) for the bulk of the day.

 

Our next day is to be at sea, and it won't take us that long to get to Los Angeles, so today we get a rare late port day. All aboard isn't until after 2am, which gives plenty of time for a night on the town, without panicking that you're going to miss the ship. Having spent all day in the city, though, I'm ready to head in, so I'm back on the ship in time for dinner. I am clearly not in synch with my table-mates, though, as they decide to see a show in town ("Menopause, The Musical") and miss dinner. I am all alone at a table for 10. I'm accustomed to eating alone in a casual setting - I just bring a book and am perfectly self-sufficient, but in the more formal environment of the dining room I don't have that option. Despite the fact that I am alone, I have a lovely dinner, and the waitstaff is very good about stopping by and chatting, and making sure that I am entertained and that my dinner doesn't drag out any longer than it has to. Clearly my tablemates are not the only ones to have skipped dinner tonight. The crowd in the dining room is very light, as most people are still onshore.

 

After dinner I enjoy a few laps around the upper decks (with views of the city), and head off for a fairly early bedtime. Had I chosen to stay up, there would have been a "sail away" buffet on the pool deck at 1am, though I'm not sure why they call it that since sail away wouldn't be for at least another couple of hours. At any rate, I am long asleep by the time we pull away and leave our final port. If you should be in San Francisco and sail away while it's still light, I strongly recommend watching this from on-deck. The view of the city is great, and there is something very majestic about the Golden Gate Bridge as you sail underneath.