Antarctica - Small Ship Expedition

[2552phxcrzr]

and glad you enjoyed the photos. Both the journal and the photo albums on SmugMug were a labor of love.

[Peter&Bebe]

We're going to be aboard MS Fram when she heads to Antarctica at Christmas. Your excellent recount of your trip on the Профессор молчанов and advice on clothing, equipment, life aboard ship and dealing with the Drake has left us even more excited about visiting and more confident about the voyage.

Many thanks.

We'll think of you when we step ashore!

[2552phxcrzr]

Have a terrific time. We'd go back in a hearbeat, but there are so many other places we haven't seen yet that a return trip is having to take a backseat.

[roberts2005]

As to the Quark pre-trip barbecue. Was it worth going to. I'm wondering if the I would enjoy spending time in town?

 

Robert

[2552phxcrzr]

The barbecue is at the tail end of the trip to Tierra del Fuego National Park. It was nothing home to write about, and I don't think you'd miss it as it is not a barbecue in the true sense of the word. We were driven to a restaurant where we sat at long tables inside, and small grills with the meat already cooked were set at intervals on the table. (I understand, however, that this is fairly standard at asado (barbecue) restaurants.) As we had already spent quite a bit of time in town, for us the trip to TdF NP and the barbecue were a change of pace.

 

I imagine that you'd need to talk to the Quark Coordinator at the hotel on embarkation day to let them know you're going to skip the tour/barbecue. That way, you can ensure that your luggage is loaded on the bus and you could arrange to meet the group outside the port area. (I don't know that you could skip just the barbecue as the restaurant is outside town and you'd need to make your own arrangements to get downtown; i.e. ask for a cab to be called.)

 

When the bus returns downtown after lunch, it parks near the port facilities (close to where the small boat tour tickets are sold). The group is then given about 2-3 hours to wander around the main drag which is a five minute walk from the parking lot. If you do go your own way, this is where you'd want to meet your group. Although you could enter the port facilities on your own, it's easier to do it as part of the group. The bus drives through the gate and takes you to the security building where you go through metal detectors before you walk the rest of the way to the ship.

 

Before you make a final decision, I'd check with Quark (close to departure date) to find out more about the barbecue arrangements as they could always change from what our experience was.

[roberts2005]

H2so4

 

Thanks for the details. It's not so much that I don't want to do tour and barbecue, just want time to do some last minute shopping before I board. Possibly to pick up cans of diet coke etc.

[2552phxcrzr]

La Anonima is the local supermarket. At least one of them is near El Turco, a restaurant located at Avenida San Martin 1410 (San Martin is the main street downtown). It's a bit of a walk, but doable in the time you'd have before you board the ship if the schedule remains as ours was. There is another La Anonima at the opposite end of town, which might be closer to where the bus parks, but I can't recall the address. As well, there are some small stores along San Martin that probably sell sodas and the like. We didn't go into them for groceries, so I can't be sure. In any event, the locals will be happy to point you in the right direction, as I am sure would the tour guide.

[roberts2005]

Another question.

 

How comfortable is it walking around on shore using Quark's boots. Do people ever bring regular boots ashore?

 

Thanks

[2552phxcrzr]

While I wouldn't want to go hiking in them, the boots were fine on landings. They are relatively heavy, but even on the 2-3 km walks in the Falklands we were comfortable enough. The key is to make sure they fit well. Try the boots on as soon as you get on board with the socks you plan to wear on your landings. If they don't fit well, work with the staff to get them exchanged immediately from the boot locker. This is especially important if you need a small size as there are fewer of those than the larger sizes.

 

I think there were one or two people who wore their own shoes, with some kind of a waterproof overshoe, but most of the group just wore the Quark boots. The thing to remember is that in most cases you're walking on land covered in mud and guano, and you really won't want to get all that on your own shoes. Besides, your own shoes may not do well in the cleaning process (scrubbing with wire brushes and dunking your feet in knee-high water when you're back on the ship to reduce cross-contamination). And finally, if you bring your own shoes on shore, there is nowhere to leave the boots. The zodiacs don't stay ashore, they shuttle back and forth; and the expedition staff wander around the landing site, accompanying groups at times. So, you'd have to lug those boots around with you.

[Tarheelbelle]

h2so4,

Did you feel that you needed the high rubber boots on hikes in the Falklands? I see the necessity for them on the Zodiak landings in Antarctic, both due to the wet landings and the guano. I will have hiking boots with me anyway due to precruise excursions in Patagonia, so just wondering which are preferable in the Falklands. [i am also bringing my own Wellie-type boots.]

[2552phxcrzr]

I'm not sure where you will be landing in the Falklands (if I recall correctly, you're going with Discovery). A lot depends not only on the landing site(s) but how the cruiseline handles landings once on shore. I read that with some of the small ships that are more luxury-oriented, they allow pax to leave their boots/lifejackets at the landing site with a crewmember posted to stand guard. Don't know if this applies to Discovery; it did not apply to our Quark sailing.

 

It also depends on the activities once you land. You might land in a guano-free location, but if you are going to trek through penguin colonies once you land, then the boots will be essential.

 

If your Falklands stop is in Stanley, you'll be taken to the jetty and can wear your own shoes there - no problem around town. If you plan to go to Gypsy Cove while in Stanley, you'll probably be OK with your own shoes. The penguins there are mostly viewed from a distance; we didn't see much mud or guano there - but then again, it was also not raining. Not sure what the conditions might be at any other penguin colonies around Stanley.

 

However, landings at any other sites (i.e. New Island, Carcasss Island, etc.) will likely be wet landings. Unless the staff that accompanies you on shore arrranges for a specific place to drop off your boots, you will have to lug those boots around with you. As well, your landing and boarding sites might be different; in which case, you would not be able to leave the boots after you get off the zodiac anyway. On Carcass Island, for example, we were dropped off at a beach at one end of the island and the zodiacs returned to the ship, which then repositioned to the opposite end where we were picked up after our hike and tea at the McGills. Both the landing and pick-up were wet beaches.

 

The expedition staff will tell you about the specific conditions applicable to each landing during the daily briefings.

[Tarheelbelle]

Thank you, h2so4. Looks like I will need to use the Wellies in Falklands as I plan to do a pengion excursion.

[roberts2005]

A basic question. Is it a good idea to buy postcards before you board your ship. And as a follow up-- What kind of stamps are used?

[2552phxcrzr]

I didn't mail any postcards, so this is just my opinion. I understand that the postcards sold on the few occasions where shopping was available, were quite expensive. My recommendation would be to buy the postcards in advance, unless you want to be able to say, "bought this in xxxxx."

 

Depending on your itinerary, there are very few places from which to mail postcards - Stanley in the Falklands, Grytviken in S Georgia, Port Lockroy (and perhaps some of the research stations) in the Peninsula region. Each location would require you to use their own stamps. I understand cards mailed from Grytviken and the Peninsula are held (in some cases for months) and returned to the host country (i.e., for Port Lockroy, they would return the cards to England) for actual mailing. (However, they are stamped from wherever you mail them.)

 

I don't recall whether Quark ships have the facilities to mail postcards. If they do, the cards would likely be held until the ship returns to port, given to their local agent and probably mailed from Ushuaia using Argentinean stamps. (I'll check some ship info I have at home to see if there is more information.)

[roberts2005]

Thanks. Besides mailing to friends, I like to send postcards to myself (from special places) Both for the location and the special postmark.

[2552phxcrzr]

I used to do that at one time. But after too many of them started to go missing, I stopped sending cards.

 

Just know that it will take a while to receive the postcards.

 

I checked the info that was handed out on the ship. On the Molchanov, you were asked to write your cabin number and name on the top right corner and leave cards, etc. with the bartender (cost was charged to your shipboard account, I believe). Somewhere in the bar there was a box of "special stamps" and an ink pad that you could use to stamp your mail.

 

There's no explanation of what they then do with the mail or from where they are actually mailed.

[minke]

I bought postcards on the ship & stamps in the Port Lockroy shop. Posted them myself in the box there, just to get the photo of the event! They arrived safely in UK within 6 weeks.

[KANDS]

Good Afternoon h2so4!

Just wanted to let you know, after reading your journal, viewing you pictures, and quite a bit of web surfing, we have booked our February 2009 trip on Quark’s Antarctic Adventure, Akademik Shokalskiy. You spoke so highly of Quark, that in the end, it just seemed to make sense. I printed your journal, highlighted those things I want to remember to take, buy, and/or do. As the time draws closer, I’ll probably have many questions. That being said, we have signed up for the kayaking and camping, did your tour have that? If so, did anyone mention if it was worth the extra $600? 16 months, well, that should give me enough time to get ready!!:D

Thanks for you help.

[roberts2005]

As I think I've stated, I too am doing a Quark trip. The Ocena Nova on Nov. 7th of this year.

 

I know there is a lot of daylight, but was wondering what the nights are like. Is there a moon in the short night period? Are a lot of stars visable?

 

How were the sunsets?

 

Thanks,

 

Robert

[2552phxcrzr]

KANDS - you'll have a terrific time. The kayaking/camping options were not offered on our trip and no one on our trip made mention of doing it. I do remember reading an online blog at one point while I was doing my research where a couple made mention of doing it. I'll look through my notes at home and see if I can find the link.

 

Roberts2005: in all honesty, I don't remember seeing the moon at all - even when we were in Ushuaia. The days were so long (and we were on the go all day long) that we were in bed long before the moon would have been visible (probably around midnight). With the sun setting so late, we also did not see many sunsets. I stayed up a couple nights with no luck, set my alarm to get up around sunset another time - again no luck. The only time I saw a spectacular sunset was when we were leaving the peninsula - it was around midnight. We also had a nice sunrise one morning in the peninsula region - a nice golden glow all around. We were there in January, so depending on when you're there, your experience might vary.

[2552phxcrzr]

KANDS - you'll have a terrific time. The kayaking/camping options were not offered on our trip and no one on our trip made mention of doing it. I do remember reading an online blog at one point while I was doing my research where a couple made mention of doing it. I'll look through my notes at home and see if I can find the link.

 

Roberts2005: in all honesty, I don't remember seeing the moon at all - even when we were in Ushuaia. The days were so long (and we were on the go all day long) that we were in bed long before the moon would have been visible (probably around midnight). With the sun setting so late, we also did not see many sunsets. I stayed up a couple nights with no luck, set my alarm to get up around sunset another time - again no luck. The only time I saw a spectacular sunset was when we were leaving the peninsula - it was around midnight. We also had a nice sunrise one morning in the peninsula region - a nice golden glow all around. We were there in January, so depending on when you're there, your experience might vary.

[FandFmom]

h2so4

 

Loved your trip report. LOVED the pictures. I look at them over and over again. We are going on a Quark Antarctica expedition on the Orlova 12/10-21. We are starting to get excited and have begun the packing process, or rather the OMG - we need this and that process. I noticed that you flew out of Dulles airport - we do too. Do you live in the area?

 

We are having the great luggage debate - I noticed your LL Bean duffle bags in the photos - what size were they?

 

Thanks again for the detailed trip report and pictures - I can't wait to do my own.

[2552phxcrzr]

FandFmom: yes, we live in the Northern Virginia area. It was great to find a direct flight to Buenos Aires from Dulles as it made the trip a lot easier.

 

The LL Bean bags are the large and small sizes. They have the same bags with wheels, but we bought ours for an African safari where wheels were not a good idea (they have to squish bags into very small compartments, so they needed to be very 'pliable"). The duffles have turned out to be an excellent buy and we've used them a great deal since we bought them in 2004.

 

I hope you write a review of your experience and share your photos when you return. An Antarctic adventure is very special. I'd go back in a heartbeat, but there are so many other places we have yet to see that it will have to wait a while.

[dc native]

We also will be flying from Dulles. We have a couple of days in BA before our cruise How does one get in touch with Ana Luna?

 

David

[2552phxcrzr]

Her website is: http://www.ana-luna.com. Contact information is available on the info tab.

 

Her email address from the website is: ana@ana-luna.com.

 

Have a great trip.