Reflections on April/May Insignia Cruise

[travelwell]

My husband and I just got back from the April 28th Rome to Venice cruise on the Insignia. This was our first Oceania cruise and thought that you all might enjoy our reflections. We are in our late 40’s and early 50’s.We spent a good deal of time determining that we would cruise with Oceania and had considered Regent, SeaDream and Crystal. We were intrigued with Oceania due to the port intensive itinerary, resort casual atmosphere, strictly limited smoking policy and the size of the ship. This was our first non-mainstream cruise.

 

Embarkation: We arrived to the pier at 3pm and there were only a few people in line. We were checked in and boarded in minutes. We headed straight up to the specialty restaurants for reservations, expecting a line. There was one couple ahead of us. As we were in the concierge level we got 2 reservations at each restaurant. We requested a table for 2 one night and the rest we would like to sit with others. We had a list of days we preferred to eat at these restaurants and got all the days we wanted. Added tip, we met other roll call members that afternoon who recommended trying that pm for the specialty restaurants as the first night they have found they could walk right in (the advantage of knowing seasoned Oceania travelers). We got to Polo at 6:30 and were immediately given a table, there were several empty tables that night. This did not count against our 4 reservations.

 

Room: We were in an A3 room. I knew the size of the room and bathroom was comparable to a balcony room on Celebrity Summit but my initial impression was that there was less storage space. We had over-packed for this trip with 1 large and 3 medium bags. I could not imagine where I was going to put everything. Imagine my surprise when everything was unpacked and I actually had a couple empty cabinets. We did fine in the room for the 12 days. I did take a peak in an inside room and it was livable also and not at all claustrophobic. We had friends who were in one and said it worked out fine. We also had friends in the penthouse level and their room was significantly larger. They also had full bath and shower. This may be the room we splurge for our next cruise.

 

Service: Wonderful. Friendly, easy-going staff. I had high expectations!

 

Food: Overall the food was very good. Tuscana and Polo were fabulous. Never a bad course let alone a bad meal. Breakfast at the Terrace was also consistently good. Loved the omelets! Two nights we ate at Tapas on the Terrace and were pleased both nights. Waves also had really great hamburgers. The surprise of the trip was the Grand Dining Room. Both the service and the food were inconsistent, either very good or not good at all. We learned to ask our table staff what they recommended and appreciated their candid recommendation (never knocked the food just said they thought we would prefer …). They were always right. Most of the service was good but not up to the level of the other restaurants. The servers seemed rushed at times and we were not sure if the staffing was up to par. Although we never waited in line for the Grand Dining Room it could be crowded when you were seated. My husband got hit pretty hard in the head with a serving tray one night by a staff member serving the table behind us; enough where we had the staff checking him to see if he was ok. Just an example of how it could be crowded, busy, and perhaps staff not as experienced. I had expected it to be noisy from pre-cruise reviews but did not notice this. Although this venue not up to expectations, overall the food was up to the high level of quality we were expecting. We were overall impressed, this is not a small ship, keeping quality up with 700 passengers for 12 days is no small feat. By the way, I loved afternoon tea, a quiet place to hang out after a busy day in port.

 

People: The fellow passengers make this trip. We had emailed several people from the “roll-call” on cruise critic prior to the cruise and it was fun having instant acquaintances that became friends. There was a scattering of 20’3 and 30’s, but the average age seemed to be 45-70. These were unpretentious, well traveled, genuinely nice, easy going people. Due to the dining arrangements you get to meet a bunch of people pretty quick. On the 10th night my husband and I ate alone in Tuscana per our embarkation day request. We sort of regretted that decision and wished we had dined with others:) I heard very little complaining except regarding the change in port from Sorrento to Naples and about the inability to go to Sicily. By the way, FDR, we really enjoyed meeting your niece and her new husband on this trip. They were our kids age and now have me rethinking about the age range I would recommend for this cruise. So much involved with picking a cruise includes knowing yourself and your likes and dislikes and matching it up to the personality of the cruiseline. This is not a party boat. We saw no children.

 

Entertainment: Along with Sweeterpea I enjoyed Oceania’s morning show with the cruise direct or Rob Wheatley. At 47 I am not easily entertained prior to coffee. He had a dry sense of humor. He, I am sure intentionally, wore horrendously bright and odd shirts for this program (well dressed during the day so obviously intended to get noticed).

I am afraid that due to the intensive shore excursions and the fact that we had great dining companions, we hit none of the nightly shows. The nights we were up late it was due to the delightful table companions at dinner. Our table closed the restaurant 2 nights. The string quartet with tea was great.

 

Laundry: My theory is when you are spending this much on a trip why would you waste several hours missing things doing laundry. The first week we sent several items to be laundered and pressed. Total of both was 40 dollars. I had sat in something in my favorite pair of slacks and had an unknown stain on them. Another pair of pants had a faint stain that I could not get out at home and had been washed/dried prior to the trip. On a whim I told our room stewardess about both stains prior to sending and would you believe they got both stains out. The second to the last day I buckled under and attacked the laundry room. Three hours later I had my one load of wash done. There are 4 Maytag Neptune combo washer/dryers. The dryers did not dry all the way. At one point there were 8 people either waiting in line or doing wash. To add insult to injury I found my husband afterwards by the pool, stating he had the most relaxing day of the cruise. Of the load the only things that really needed washing was a few shirts and slacks. For 20 or so additional dollars I might had said that I also had the most relaxing day. The dynamics in the laundry are odd and I fell into the trap of eyeing everyone that came in to see that my spot in line was not taken. There is a comfortable couch and a TV. I also have heard on the rough sea day this is the room to hang out in.

 

 

Internet: This was expensive. Two dollars per email. We sent an email to my mother once a day and then she would forward them on to the rest of the family. The people hired in the computer room were friendly. We did not need to use them but we witnessed them patiently help people set up email accounts for their first time.

 

Library: By far the best I have ever seen on a cruise-ship. Good selection of new releases. Very comfortable. Noticed a woman on day 2 of the cruise asleep in a chair, wrapped up in a blanket, with an empty ice cream bowl in her lap. Now that is a vacation!

 

Shore excursions:

 

Corsica: Hired taxi with another couple and drove around the island. Pretty beaches. Appears to have nice hiking. As we divided the cost with another couple, ended up 120 Euro’s per couple for around 4 or so hours and then explored Bonifacio easily on our own.

 

Livornio(Florence) Learned once in a while you get stung doing your own excursions. Rented a car to be picked up at port. Unfortunately docked at the industrial port. Took 2 hours to get from the one port to the other as security would not allow walking. Taxi’s not interested in taking us to pier as they were looking for customers interested in the long drive to Florence. Local destination guide recommended a wrong route to get there. Picture 2 people walking along a busy road getting talking directions from our portable Navigation system, “Tom-Tom” trying to find the rental car. Although my husband drives extensively in Europe for business this port town was a challenge. Lucca was wonderful except our Visa was eaten by parking meter…. We smartly had Eurocar arrange for taxi back to ship. Then long phone call home to cancel Visa… To add fuel to our one challenging day the folks that booked the Oceania shore excursion to Pisa and Lucca had a great time… and for less money!

 

Portofino: Beautiful town. We walked to the Hotel Splendido and had a drink at their restaurant on a hill overlooking the town. Expensive as they charge a premium for the view. The walk up is stunning with lemon tree groves, flowers. We had friends who walked to Santa Margarita. Said it is pretty. Long walk and you need to be in good shape.

 

Corisca: Rented a car with another couple. Easy driving with the “Tom-Tom” and road are great. Drove to the northern tip stopping occasionally at beautiful beaches. Had trouble finding a spot for lunch as most resorts not open yet. We should have thought of a picnic. Rental car was 130 Euros divided by 2 families.

 

Naples: We were supposed to dock in Sorrento but Oceania had to change to Naples. Took our one Oceania shore excursion to Pompeii and Sorrento. The guide and driver were very good. This included unadvertised stops at a wood inlay company and a cameo factory that we felt were a waste of time. Recommended a pizzeria by the guide that was wonderful. Not a bad day but we had friend who booked a day with Amalfi-Drives and it was a highlight of their trip. Divided by a few couple equals a shore excursion cost.

 

Amali: Were previously booked Emerald Grotto, canceled due to choppy seas. Ship offered a free walking tour of Amalfi that apparently was great. We did it on our own. Then we decide to take the public bus to Positano. I would not recommend this. The public bus system sold many more tickets then people could fit in the bus. During the drive a man fell in the bus and another women had the door close behind her prior to her husband getting on. The bus stops for nothing! It was a hair-raising ride along the coast standing like a sardine. Positano was charming, we left early as we were afraid the buses would be packed going back. After seeing several packed buses not stop going back we happily shared a 60 Euro cab to get back to Amalfi. Lesson learned. If you want to leave the town of Amalfi take the ships shore excursion or hire a taxi. I would not drive myself here!!!!

We had a very difficult tender ride back to the ship. Apparently they stopped allowing people off the ship at 1pm due to rough seas but we onshore had tender service to get back in until 4ish. Tenders looked like corks in the water. I was very impressed with the tender operators and the men getting us on and off the boat. The tender would bob back and forth with 4-5 feet swells. There was an officer on the tender who directed one person at a time off their seat and several to assist you to the doorway. With 2 people holding you on the tender they would hand you off to the two on the ship timing getting you in with the swells. You never had less then 2 people holding on to you at any time. The crew got everyone back in safely. Once again I was very impressed.

 

Taomina: Disappointing, seas too choppy to tender in. We had a private tour set up that was canceled. Some people upset, but after our experience with the Amalfi tenders, understood. Boat seems empty, many people seasick. I took Bonine prior to feeling sick. I also wore sea bands. Not sure why I was spared as I can get quite motion sick. Warm enough to enjoy the pool. I actually enjoyed the day at rest.

 

Corfu: Walked to the old town and up to the fort. I guess we walked several miles. My least favorite port, not bad, just not outstanding. Some folks rented a car and said outlying areas nice.

 

Kotor: I was warned to get up early and watch the ship arrive. This is the southern-most fiord in Europe. Very unspoiled. The ship went by several small towns prior to arriving. Looked like a picture –postcard. Not much to the present town of Kotor but we had a spectacular walk, 1500 stairs along a mountainside to the top of the very old fort. This is only for the fit, no step is even. Bring water and good knees. We were rewarded with a spectacular view. Allow several hours. You are not committed to going all the way up, you will be afforded nice views if you decide just to go partway up. Plus it is free!

 

Dubrovnik: We walked the entire walls. I can not remember the cost but think around 7 Euro’s. Not an overly strenuous walk but with few access points on and off and no shade. Beautiful views. So impressed with this area and the people. They have done a beautiful job rebuilding after the Croatia/Serbia war. This is one part of the world to visit before more people discover it! People really live in this town and it is worth going into the town in the evening to experience the local culture, kids playing soccer in the street and teens at the local pubs. The ship docked at the pier and we were told it was a ½ hour walk to the old town or a 15 Euro taxi. Taxi’s are the way to go. It would have really been an hour and a half plus walk and not direct. We met folks who gave up ½ way after asking directions several times.

 

Venice: We had a private guide. Interesting city. I had become sort of burnt out of going to another church. So glad I went to St. Marks. It is lit up from 11:30am to 12:30pm every day and is spectacular.

 

After thoughts…

Oceania has easily become our favorite cruise-line. We will probably cruise again with them the next 2 years. I am not looking at the other luxury cruise lines at this point due to the smoking policies, formal dress. I believe we have found the perfect cruise-line for my husband and me. Oceania has found their own niche and I am sure they will continue to do well, especially in my age bracket.

 

Room for improvement:

 

Better local destination guides. They offered little other than maps. They were unable to tell us where local car rental places were or even where the complementary trams let us off in cities and other basic knowledge. We were also discouraged from walking several hikes recommended in common guidebooks that were safe and fine as long as you know limitations. For the independent traveler, these things are invaluable.

Make bottled water in the room free or at perhaps complementary 2 bottles per room per day (I know minor detail)

Cheaper internet access.

Continue to improve shore excursion offerings.

Art auctions, personally dislike them. I guess people really buy this stuff but we did not meet anyone who went.Cluttered the ship at times.

Much less paper wasted for ship advertising then when we were on Celebrity but still too much separate paper advertising for spa and art auctions when it is already written with day programming.

 

After thoughts…

Oceania has easily become our favorite cruise-line. We will probably cruise again with them the next 2 years. I am not looking at the other luxury cruise lines at this point due to the smoking policies, formal dress. I believe we have found the perfect cruise-line for my husband and me. Oceania has found their own niche and I am sure they will continue to do well.

 

BTW, FDR, What finally tipped us over to cruising with Oceania the first time was when I read your responses to a few difficult questions posted on this site. I was really impressed!

[nowornever]

Can you post some information on (my favorite subject!) wine, bottled, by glass, etc?

[tgh]

A well balanced review .. well done

 

The evidence in favour of the Oceania "model" is compelling, and your review adds another nail to the princess/celebrity coffin (In terms of out future cruising plans... :D ).

[aunteemom]

your review states that you hired a taxi in corsica and farther down in your review, you state that you rented a car. if you rented a car, which agency did you use in corsica? i have read that the roads are very narrow and difficult to navigate but your review suggests otherwise??

[travelwell]

Thank you for your kind comments!

Yes tgh, Oceania "put the nail in the coffin" for all the mainstream cruise lines including Celebrity. I did hear one women who early on stated she liked one mainstream line better as they had bowls of peanuts sitting at all the bars for folks to munch on throughout the day and Oceania did not. I laugh, as an RN, I would not be near those peanuts:). Can you imagine how fast an illness would spread. I would only consider the mainstream lines again if I brought children along. Oceania will be and exciting line to watch over the next few years.

 

nowornever: Since we were mostly in Italy we planned to drink only Italian wine. I picked up 6 bottles of wine prior to boarding and entered the port with the boxed case. Oceania staff even helped me carry it from security to our room. What a change from other lines! We opened my favorite, a Brunello, with friends in our room the first night. Our room stewardess, Olga, kindly brought us 2 extra glasses to share this bottle. The origonal plan was to bring the bottles to the dining rooms and pay the corkage fee of 20 dollars. We figured if we were lucky we'd go thru a bottle every 2 nights. We did do this for one bottle and then saw the wine list and pricing. We found several bottles of good Italian reds for the 30-50 dollar price range and figured we would just bring home the other 5 bottles in our luggage as these wines were special and would cost us much more at home. If you have a bottle opened they will store the bottle and return the remainder to any restaurant venue, at any time, including Waves, that you want in a timely manner. We did not see many people take advantage of the corkage fee. People were happy with the wine list. Prices seemed comparable to restaurants at home. Of note, when we received the final bill someone had removed the one corkage fee. Perhaps due to the fact we bought several bottles of wine the following week plus. I never ordered by the glass because they handled the partically opened wines so well.

 

Oops, Aunteemom, thank you for catching my error with Corsica. To clarify, in Corsica we hired a cab as we really had no other choice. The tourist season did not officially open until the following week. We had 2 couples searching the internet and if my memory is correct there is a Hertz and/or an Avis that reserves cars starting May 1st and we arrived the 29th of April. Taxi's were hard to find but we got a shop owner to call one for us. This appears to be a very drivable island. We had friends who were quite disappointed with the ships shore excursion to Sartene, alot of bus time with very limited time off the bus due to a local festival in Sartene and limited parking for the bus. The scenery of Corisica was much better then Sartene itself to us. Our taxi driver stopped and let us walk around when we wanted to and took us to his favorite beach. Taxi driver spoke limited English and my husband limited French but with patience, alot of hand motions and humor on both sides we did just fine!

 

Now for Sardinia. The ship docked in Olbia for our itinerary and not Porto Cervo. We rented a car. Taxi's were readily available to take us to the rental car. Close your eyes and you think you are driving in the states. I imagine the roads might become crowded during high season. Rental cars save the most money when divided by 2 families. This was especially true when you have to take a cab to the Hertz dealer as we did. The average price of a cab each way to about anywhere was 10-15 Euro's so factor this in. We booked this car online. Please note we did not talk to anyone who had a bad time in Sardinia. The Oceania shore excursions seemed good, we also talked to a group who had hired a local guide and one who hired a taxi.

[fjdelrio]

Glad to hear that you met Alexis and Eric, they're real sweet kids and really in love and looking forward to starting their lives topgether in Richmond.

 

I enjoyed reading your review. I'll look into the Grand Dining Room situation you described.

 

No free water, I'd just have to charge you more for the cruise!!

We 're trying to make the internet faster so it becomes a better value.

 

Thanks again

FDR

[LHT28]

No free water, I'd just have to charge you more for the cruise!!

Thanks again

FDR

 

How about less expensive water then ??? ;)

[shemp2000]

Sounds great.

 

We have the same or similar itinerary next fall.

 

Which of these ports required a tender? Amali, Taomina, others??

 

Thanks

[travelwell]

Shemp2000,

 

We had such a nice time on the cruise and I know you will too! If I remember correcty we tendered at Bonifacio, Portifino, Amalfi, and should have in Taomina but this day the port was skipped due to bad weather. Our roll call was invaluable for planning and we will take advantage of it again with our next cruise.

[hyperose]

Travelwell,

Thank you for your thorough review. I am booked on a cruise on the Insignia leaving in one week, and this eased some of my anxieties. You mentioned in your post to be up early to watch the ship go through the fjord on the way to Kotor. How early would you recommend? Thanks!

[travelwell]

Hyperose,

 

I was on the top deck with the camera about 1 1/2 hours prior to docking in Kotor (with a large cup of coffee). I can not remember what time we docked but I think I was on the deck around 6:30 to 7. You will pass stunning scenery and quaint villages. If you are in good shape walk to the old fort as described in the origonal posting. I am very serious about taking water. Even walking part of the way up and turning back is worth it. The path is well marked but very uneven surfaces.

 

Have fun! I am trying not to be jealous:)