Review and Photos of Denali May 18-19 and Carnival Spirit Cruise SB, May 20-27, 2009

[bimmermom]

Hi, Islanders! And thank you :) I am using a Nikon D60, with the standard 18 to 55mm VR lens and an additional 70-300 mm VR lens. Got it especially for the trip! Here's wishing you a wonderful cruise, you're gonna love it...

[Naomi John]

Just marking my spot to get to the end. What a wonderful review and great pictures. This trip is on my bucket list now.

[bimmermom]

On Sunday we docked at Skagway under bright blue skies. Our good luck with weather was holding! Walking down the pier and checking through security at the end was quick, and we met our Chilkoot guide, Sean. Sean drove our small group of about 14 folks over to the WPYR railroad cars and told us that our train ride up into the mountains would end at Fraser, and he would meet us there in his small tour bus. Terry and Carl, our CC buds, were with us on this tour and we also happened to finally find Roger and Emily, our "missing" CCers. It was great to have a group of friends to enjoy this beautiful day with.

 

We got comfortable in our assigned car of the train. Seats were nicely padded and there was a large water cooler. There was also a convenient bathroom. Although we really had wanted to get seats on the left side of the train, as so many on this board have recommended, that entire side was taken up by a large tour group that had arrived just before us. Oh, well, no matter. As it turned out, hubby and I spent most of our time standing on the platform between cars anyway, just to breathe in all that beauty and to take lots of photos. DD stayed inside the car, along with Terry and Carl and they enjoyed views even from the right side. Besides, we figured that we would catch any scenery we might miss on the train from the bus ride later.

 

The green and yellow train pulled out on schedule and started its slow climb up and up and up. We passed parts of the town, an old gold prospectors' cemetery, and an antique railcar. Pretty soon, we were high up in the sky and could catch just an occasional glimpse of Skagway far below. The train would stop occasionally to let out hikers. We traveled over several bridges and tressels and went through a tunnel. Eventually we were up high enough and into the snowline. As hubby and I stood on the platform to take photos, it was like being on a gigantic rollercoaster only the scenery was out of this world beautiful. We marveled at this engineering feat and thought about how hard it must have been to build this railroad in the rugged terrain. Again, I won't even try to describe our exhilarating train ride, I'll just include photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

After 1 1/2 hours on the train, we stopped at Fraser on the Yukon border. We waited in the train car until the customs officer had checked our passports and then we left the train to meet Sean, who was waiting for us in the parking lot.

 

Sean was an outstanding guide and we were so glad he had been assigned to our group! He was young, had a great sense of humor and a real appreciation for this part of the world. We could tell he loved talking about the surrounding nature, beauty and history and also seemed to enjoy meeting new people. Sean shared with us that he lives in Skagway 6 months of the year and goes back to Texas for the other part of the time to finish a degree in music. He said he wants to bring back old time 40s bands -- like the old swing type music. Very cool!

 

Sean with Chilkoot Tours

 

 

We loaded ourselves into the comfortable mini-bus for our ride up to Carcross and Emerald Lake. We passed easily through the Canadian border station and proceeded to drive uphill. By now, we were surely on top of the world! Sean told us he would be narrating what we were seeing and he would be making stops as necessary for certain vantage points and for wildlife viewing. Almost immediately, he pulled over for us to observe a big black bear right next to the road. The big black bear was very close to the guard rail and our windows, calmly munching away on dandelions. Unperturbed by our presence, he just gazed back at us while continuing to snack.

 

Next thing we knew, a small caravan of rented jeeps had pulled over in front of us to see the bear. Instead of watching and taking photos from inside their cars like we were doing, these tourists decided to get out and point at the bear from the side of the road just a few feet away! One man even held his small child over the railing for a closer look. We all noticed at this point that the bear stopped munching his dandelions to have a closer look at these clueless, rude tourists.

 

Sean apologized to us, but said that as a member of Skagway's search-and-rescue team, he had an obligation to herd these people back to safely. So he got out of the bus to have a serious conversation with those folks. I'm not sure what he told them, but they evidently got the message and retreated to their cars in a hurry. When Sean got back into our bus, we could see how frustrated he was and how often this kind of mistake is made by tourists who think "oh what a cute bear!"

 

Mr. Bear, in the meantime, had gone back to focus on his dandelion dessert, since the child that had been held over his head was no longer available :) We snapped a few more photos before driving on again.

 

Mr. Bear -- Beware of crazy tourists!

 

 

The next few stops were made to gaze up at the mountain goats overhead. We passed through many different micro-climates, from drier scenery with scrub vegetation to forests and lots of snow and ice and then back to dry again. The mountains were incredibly beautiful and varied. We stopped to take photos at the Yukon Territory sign, at one of the many glacial lakes and again at the "smallest" desert in the world. This little desert was once a glacial lake but when the prehistoric glaciers retreated, they left behind the fine silt and sand that we see today.

 

 

 

 

Next up and the farthest northern point of our excursion was Emerald Lake. All I can say is WOW. This sparkling little gem was too beautiful for words and is everything and more that you see in all the photos. Needless to say, we took photos there before heading back to eat lunch at Caribou Crossing. And not once did my dd say, "Oh mom, ANOTHER mountain/lake photo." This time, she was too busy taking a gajillion photos with her own camera!

[bimmermom]

 

[bimmermom]

Hi, Naomi! Thanks for reading my review. I know it's gotten way too long but what the heck, I just can't stop! As I go thru my notes and my "gajillion" pictures, I keep remembering more details. I'll try to finish up with Skagway later tonight or tomorrow. :D

[crazycath]

It is NOT too long, keep it just the way you are... love to read it!

 

Cathy

[islandersx4]

more please, more

[jrmende63]

Your review is definately NOT too long! Keep it up...we are enjoying!

[Naomi John]

Hi, Naomi! Thanks for reading my review. I know it's gotten way too long but what the heck, I just can't stop! As I go thru my notes and my "gajillion" pictures, I keep remembering more details. I'll try to finish up with Skagway later tonight or tomorrow. :D

 

Oh no, it's not too long to me. Wonderfully detailed. My DH coonass said it would be too cold for us. But i'm working on it. wonderful pictures.

[woowoochick]

Your review is not too long. I love all the details and the pictures. Actually I feel like I'm a bimmermom addict. I keep coming back to the boards just to see if you added more to your review.

[bimmermom]

Thanks guys!

 

Naomi -- Tell that coon a$$ hubby of yours that if my redneck hubby can handle the cold, so can he. Tell him to suck it in and go for the trip of a lifetime!

 

WooWoo -- You are hilarious. I'm a CC addict for sure, so I know the feeling. I tried for a long time to post Skagwag photos last night, but my web host was down. So, I'm gonna try again in just a bit. ;)

[bimmermom]

Our next stop before our drive back down the mountains to Skagway was lunch, petting the sled puppies, a dog cart ride and viewing the Wildlife Museum at Caribou Crossing. We had about 1 1/2 hours at this fun and interesting place. Lunch was very good and consisted of bbq chicken, baked potato, slaw and delicious donuts for dessert. Our group sat together in the large pioneer-style dining hall, but you could also sit outside in covered wagons.

After eating, we went for our dog cart ride with the sled dogs that train and live at Caribou Crossing. These dogs were so energetic! We watched one team come back from taking folks on their ride through pathways in a neighboring forest and the lead dog immediately dropped himself into the mud where the water troughs were to cool himself. When he was finished, the other dogs would follow his lead. They certainly followed the pack order! We noticed quite a lot of snapping and growling at each other, as the newer dogs tried to move up in the hierarchy. No dog actually drew blood, but it got quite loud at times.

For our ride, another lead dog and fresh team was hitched up. And off we flew! This was a fast ride and I held onto my camera for dear life. At one point, the cart driver made the dogs stop to have water from kiddy pools set up in the forest. While the dogs on one side would drink, the other dogs couldn't stand still, so they were jumping up and down like kangaroos. It's so obvious that the dogs live to run, run, run. The trainer explained to us that the Alaskan sled dogs are interbred with many different breeds of dogs, from greyhounds for speed, shepards for intelligence, labs for energy and loyalty, and of course the usual husky and malamutes, along other breeds as well. That is why these dogs all look different from each other and far different from how they are look in Hollywood films.

 

 

After 20 minutes of dog carting, we were delivered back to the camp safe and sound. We walked around the dog houses and found the latest litter of 2-month-old puppies. Mama Dog was nearby but she was letting us pet the pups and she even let my dd pick one up to cuddle, although Mama was keeping a close watch on her young 'uns. We had to pull dd away from the pups because dogs are her real loves (she has rescued 3 of them back home) and she is a real sucker for puppies. But then who isn't? Look at those faces:

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

We next headed over the Wildlife Museum which is in one of the many separate buildings of Caribou Crossing. This is an interesting exhibit of the animals of Yukon, both of prehistoric and modern times. The centerpiece of all the animals is a huge wooly mammoth. There is great detail in all these animal display, both in the animals themselves and their habitats. I wish we had had a little more time in the museum but it was time to get back to the minibus.

 

 

Sean drives us just down the road to Carcross, which is a village of about 430 people that is located next to Lake Bennett. Historically, Carcross (called Caribou Crossing back then) was an important home to the native Tagish population and later an important stop for the Klondike Gold Rush prospectors. Today, the town caters to tourists and with an old Wild West look and atmosphere. Again, I wish we had time to stop here but we need to keep moving back to Skagway. I'll be back (fingers crossed!)

 

 

 

On the ride back down to Skagway, the scenic views are different and maybe even more spectacular than on the way up. We passed so many glacial lakes that I lost count. The reflection of the mountains in the glassy lakes is so very colorful that the scenes looked like paintings. Every turn brought a new view and another wonder of sky, mountain and lake.

 

[bimmermom]

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once back down in Skagway, Sean drove us through the town streets where the setting is postcard perfect. It looked exactly as if we were transported back in time to the old Gold Rush days. But instead of the old steam ships docked at the harbor, there were 2 beautiful modern cruise ships (the Seven Seas Mariner was docked with us). It was already close to 4:00 pm and time to get back onboard. I wish we had been able to visit the Red Onion Saloon and have a walk through the town, but there just wasn't enough time left. As we walked back down the pier to the Spirit, we all took note of the ship logos and trademarks and dates that had been painted on the rocky wall bordering the harbor. It's an interesting kind of guestbook for ships that dock at Skagway and has been a tradition for decades.

[bimmermom]

 

 

 

Back "home" on the Spirit, our CC group got together with many of use just too pooped to participate in the cruise's 2nd formal night. We made plans to go the lido deck instead. But before we eat, the Spirit would be sailing through Lynn Canal, which runs from Skagway southward for about 90 miles toward Juneau. It is one of the longest and deepest fjords in the world and also one of the most scenic. We opted to hang out on our balcony and listen to Dirk's commentary as we sailed through this beautiful canal. We were treated to wonderful sights, from a huge seal colony (or were they sea lions?) sunning on the rocks, lots of waterfalls and the 100-year old octagonal Eldred Lighthouse sitting on a tiny island in the middle of the Canal. And as if that wasn't enough, we also encountered one of the Alaskan ferries, several sail boats, fishing boats and a couple of humpback whales and an orca. It's very true that sailing through the Lynn Canal is scenic and full of wildlife and not to be missed.

 

 

[bimmermom]

 

 

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

 

 

 

 

 

After we finished sailing down the Lynn Canal, we joined some of our CC buds to eat at the Lido buffet. I don't remember the food being excellent, but it was still pretty good. I think I had chicken and some type of pasta, hubby had a ham dish which he said was excellent. Up next was a show, followed by karaoke. We knew that tomorrow would be a late docking at Ketchikan, so we would be able to sleep in. Besides, it was the first day in a port with no set plans and no excursion. Our plans were simply to follow our noses, do a little shopping and play the day by ear! As much as we had already planned, seen and done (with no major hitches), a day with nothing to do sounded fantastic.

Next on the agenda, Ketchikan and finally the rain caught up to us!

[Coolcruise02]

Thanks for a great review and wonderful pictures!

[Minoushka]

Loved your review .Cannot wait to see Alaska for myself in july

Thanks for GREAT PICS

 

Michele

[bimmermom]

Not too surprisingly, this morning brought gray clouds and cold Alaskan rain to Ketchikan. We had been so fortunate with fair skies since our journey began 8 days ago that this rain was almost welcomed. It made us feel like we were experiencing more of the "real" Alaska. And I think the main reason we didn't mind was because we were going to sleep late and take our time this morning. For the first time during our vacation, we didn't have to rush to be anywhere. Ah, a relaxing morning was nice for a change.

 

After eating a late breakfast (more like a brunch) up on Lido, DD and I decided to go shopping. We had purposefully waited to shop for most of our souvenirs and keepsakes until this port and now we were itching to go exploring. Hubby went ashore with Mr. and Mrs. Alaskagriz to check out the pubs and get a feel for the fun side of life in Ketchikan. Our other CC buds were doing a variety of activities, from flightseeing to ziplining to fishing. So DD and I set out by ourselves with our rain jackets on and our hoods pulled over our heads to keep the alternating rain and drizzle out.

 

 

There were 5 cruise ships in port that day and the streets were crowded with tourists like us. This was the most crowded port we had experienced to date; at the others there had only been and 1 other cruise ship beside the Spirit.

 

First we went to the Tourist Office located right next to the pier to load up on maps and advice. There were tons of booths in the office, with lots of still-available excursions and tours being sold and advertised. Of course, we weren't about to sign up, we just wanted some town maps and coupons and we were outta there!

 

The main "drag" of shops next to the pier

 

 

 

Before we could get started with our shopping, we ran into our Alaskangriz friends, who, with hubby, had just enjoyed a round of bloody marys in a very colorful bar across the street. A young local man had turned 25 and was inviting everyone to celebrate his birthday with him...but evidently he had already been celebrating for several days :)

 

Our little group decided to head over to catch the Great Alaskan Lumberjack show. I had read here on CC some varied opinions about the show, so wasn't too sure if we would enjoy it or not. Well, the show was definitely corny, but fun! It may not be to everyone's taste, being a bit more Disney than authentic, but we still had some good laughs and were able to get out of the rain in the covered stands.

 

The lumberjacks represented 2 teams: the Dawson Creek Team from Canada and the good ole US Team from Spruce Mills. The crowd was divided down the middle to root for each side. The strong young lumberjacks competed with other by sawing and chopping logs, carving "bunnies" in wood, log rolling, and the most spectacular feat of all - tree climbing. In addition to the real athleticism of the performers, there was good old fashioned cheating, clowning around and slapstick humor. Dang it, our side, the Spruce Mills team lost that day, even though we all cheated like crazy.

 

At the end of the program, when the lumberjacks posed to have their picture taken, one of them literally swept DD off her feet and carried her way. She came back though, because she still wanted to go shopping. Go figure!

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

Hi, coolcruise and mm! You're welcome and thanks for your feedback :)

[bimmermom]

DD and I shopped briefly at the Lumberjack Show Gift Shop and had some good laughs at their stuff. We started to buy some shorts that read "Dumb Axe" but figured hubby might not appreciate it. There was actually lots of silly but cute items.

 

We moved on down the road and, following the town map, walked to the beginning of Creek Street. From here we had a good glimpse of the Spirit. She is such a graceful ship and really stands out from the distance.

 

 

We entered Creek Street, famous for its historic wooden buildings that had been built on stilts over Ketchikan Creek. Later in the summer salmon will be jumping upstream below us. We went into the first of many quaint shops and galleries along the wooden pedestrian boardwalk. We were fascinated by the beautiful prints and native art.

 

Next along the way we stopped to peek at in Dolly's, a notorious brothel back in the days of old, and which today has a small, self-guided museum. We intended to come back when the little green house was a little less crowded (unfortunately we never did although hubby went in and took some photos). We had read somewhere that Dolly's and Creek Street was where "both men and salmon came upstream to spawn."

 

Scenes from Creek Street (Dolly's is the little green house on the right in the first photo)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bimmermom]

Stopping in several interesting shops, we ended up buying some natural soaps, handmade picture frames, t'shirts and a baseball cap. I also ended up buying some cans of smoked gourmet salmon to take back home as gifts. Additional purchases we made were some beautiful hand-carved pendants of ivory and malachite, tiny little bear figurines made of ivory and a few Christmas ornaments. Oh, and not to forget my silver spoon that I was told was a one-of-a-kind original designed by an artist in Ketchikan and 3 sets of wooden "claws" that can be used to toss salads or pasta. I tried to make sure that our loot was locally produced and not made in China as so many of the souvenirs are.

 

As we walked further along Creek Street, we eventually came across a big salmon statue. Large stones on the bank are covered in thick green moss and you can hear the rushing sounds of the creek. Things were much more peaceful now, since a couple of the large cruise ships had left and taken many of the tourists with them.

 

 

Along Ketchikan Creek

 

 

 

 

Well, by this time, DD and I were hungry again so we decided to track back and take the bright red funicular up the hill to the restaurant at Cape Fox Lodge. We had heard the food was good and that the view going up and down was great (at least on a clear day). So we paid the $2 and up we went. While the view was a little obscured by the low-lying clouds and drizzle, we still had a good view of the Spirit and of Creek Street below us.

 

 

The little red funicular car that goes from Creek Street to Cape Fox Lodge

 

 

 

View from the funicular toward the pier

 

 

 

Carving inside Cape Fox Lodge