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Live from the 2013 world cruise - on QM2


Whitemarsh

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2nd March: Cairns

 

It's only been a year since the Queen Mary last docked in Yorkey's Knob and this time no large crowds have come to see her. As there is one road from Yorkey's Knob to Carins, and there was a traffic jam on it last year, (due to all the sightseers) the local paper has apparently been encouraging people to view the ship from different vantage points to the Yorkey's Knob boat club (where all the tenders come in).

 

Today's tour is 'Sky-rail to Kuranda & Butterfly farm' which leaves around 9am. It's not a long tour and we'll be back on the ship around about 13:00. After a quick 10 minute trip to the dock (we were on a catamaran) we boarded the bus and departed for the sky-rail. Our tour guide and bus driver are (of course) Australian and it's nice to be back in one's own country. The sky-rail was okay, with plenty of wonderful views of the rainforest and the ship which was docked out at sea. After the sky-rail we walked up the main street of Kuranda (which is just like Maleny & Montville - towns on the Sunshine Coast) and visited the Butterfly enclosure. After that we had an hour for shopping. Unfortunately I had forgotten to bring any money with me and was reduced to window shopping and having a drink from the bubbler in the park. It was quite humid that day so I'm glad that bubbler was there.

 

The catamaran is in use when we return so we're directed onto a tender. I don't really mind these, they're kind of fun. However, when you're in a tropical climate and the tender has about 90 people in it the atmosphere because very hot and smelly. With no windows to speak of it, it's rather unpleasant and there is a huge sigh of relief from everyone when one of the deck hands opens the little door at the front of the tender which allows the air to rush in and through the tender. Thank goodness he did that because had he not there would have been a number of unhappy campers by the end of the tender ride. Strangely, a local pleasure craft comes within a couple of metres of the tender whilst we are tied up alongside the ship and the passengers are transiting from the tender to the ship. I've never seen a boat this close to tendering operations before. The people on the boat are having a few drinks and generally enjoying watching the scene.

 

Back on board I ordered lunch from room service and, as usual, it was brought to the room by the butler who set up the table etc etc. Since it was so hot I went for a swim at the pool on deck 8 and enjoyed it very much, although the pool could be colder in such warm weather. Strangely, there are people embarking in Cairns today as someone spotted some people with luggage and they held a lifeboat drill in the afternoon. For anyone doing next year's circumnavigation this will become a familiar sight as people will be embarking and disembarking at every single port in Australia, and probably New Zealand this year.

 

Being a little tired I decided to eat earlier tonight and ring the doctor to suggest we eat at 7:30pm. I haven't had that many pre-dinner drinks in the Queens Grill lounge so I head down there at 7pm for a few before dinner. There are no canapés being served due to the health precautions that are still in place. Speaking of these, the commodore announced earlier in the day that the precautions and protocols that have been imposed are working and the number of cases has not reached the point where they are required by maritime law to report the occurrences to the local authorities. The staff in Kings Court are working very hard and the commodore acknowledges this and thanks the passengers for their understanding and patience.

 

The doctor arrives and we wander into the Queens Grill. As it's just the two of us tonight we dine at the table for two that I dined at a couple of evenings ago. We both agree that there are advantages to 'table hopping' as you are afforded a different perspective on the restaurant. We are also both amused at how the staff come up to the side table with the lamps (our table is next to the runway) to talk to us. It's quite funny at first, but you realise that it's the most sensible place for them to approach the table from. Osman (the maitre d) comes up to say hello and see how we are. We are both good and the doctor and I put in our 'off menu' requests for the following night, which includes caviar and steamed lobster. Osman asks if we would like to have caviar tonight as well and I am delighted with this suggestion. Thanking Osman we both agree to have caviar tonight too - as you would.

 

Dinner is very enjoyable and I'm afforded an opportunity to compare the food and service from last night's meal in the Britannia Restaurant to the Queens Grill. Upon reflection, the atmosphere and pace of the Queens Grill is more relaxed and elegant. The menu in the Queens Grill is roughly four pages long as opposed to the two that the Britannia Restaurant has. The 'cuisine' in the Queens Grill (from the a la carte menu) is more involved/complex than the meals offered in Britannia - in a nutshell the food is better. Considering how good the food & service is in the Britannia Restaurant, this is great achievement for Cunard. Having said all this, I remain convinced that there is no difference between the Queens & Princess Grill restaurants (in terms of food & service) so anyone considering booking the Grills (and doesn't need all the space that a Queens Grill suite provides) will enjoy the same dining experience in the Princess Grill (for less money) as will those who've paid extra for the Queens Grill. It really comes down to whether you need the extra space or not.

 

Whilst we are having dinner the Gold Coast lady arrives and seeing no one at our old table comes and sits at the empty table for two next to the doctor and I. She's had a great time shopping in Cairns and has put her bargaining skills from Shanghai & Hong Kong to good use back in Australia. Osman comes over to say hello to the Gold Coast lady and she orders caviar as well. Our old table sure does move around a lot, and I appreciate that Osman is very understanding about this and accommodates our 'eccentricities' as it were. The spacing between the tables for two is generally nonexistent so talking to the Gold Coast lady is quite easy, it's almost like being on a table for four. Tonight I had the caviar followed by a crab dish entree, the Dartmoor lamb for a main and crepes suzette for dessert. It's all very good and I'm going to miss the food.

 

None of us feel like dancing tonight so we all head back to our respective cabins for bed. Before I retire I enjoy one final cigarette out on the balcony. :)

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The distance to the shore is quite a way and takes the tenders approximately 20 to 25 minutes each way.

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QM2 docked at Yorkeys Knob.

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The rainforest.

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The Kuranda train is another tour that people can take.

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Due to the lack of rain, this waterfall was more of a trickle.

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Approaching Kuranda.

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Hi Whitemarsh

 

I just wanted to say that I loved your last report as we've actually been to the places mentioned. We went up to Kuranda by train and then came down again via Skyrail. We have also stayed a couple of times at Montville. We didn't actually go to Yorkey's Knob but did take photos of the road sign as the name caused some amusement in the UK - a bit like one of your brands of cheese! I will be sorry when you disembark in Brisbane and your reports end.

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I disagree that it is an “age” thing. We see many times on this and other forums that “if it’s too loud you’re too old.” Horsefeathers I say. l.

 

When you have hearing damage as I do one of the peculiarities is that you are super sensitive to some types of noise, heavy bass being one of them. And the passengers who I have seen walking out of the theatre to escape the noise have all been older folk.

 

I agree with you about the overuse of amplification. In UK, lectures in quite small rooms are now all given through a sound system.

 

Sadly the people most at risk of hearing damage are the performers, particularly the dancers who perform right in front of orchestra.

 

David.

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Whitemarsh, I can't tell you how much I'm going to miss your blog when you disembark. I usually read it at work and end up giggling like a schoolgirl over your latest observations of your fellow passengers, which has reinforced my secretary's firm conviction that I'm completely mad. I had originally been tempted to do my own blog during my upcoming TA, but now I'm intimidated: I couldn't even begin to match your highly developed skill at commenting amusingly on the passing scene.

 

This evening I am again reminded of how much I enjoy the buzz of the Britannia Restaurant. The service is fast and efficient and the food is great. If there are any future reviews about the Hong Kong to Brisbane sector that say that the food in the Britannia Restaurant was inedible or terrible then I question the sanity of the reviewer - seriously. Since I embarked in Singapore on the 9th Feb I have not come across any inedible or bad food on this ship.

So glad to hear that the Britannia dining room was such a positive experience! I was really beginning to wonder after hearing from so many posters that the food there has become inedible.

 

I must admit that the crossing of the equator ceremony threw me for a loop. The whole "smearing with goo and smacking with a fish" thing seems a bit lowbrow for the world's most civilized adventure, wouldn't you say? And why are the goo smearers and fish smackers dressed as doctors? And is the swimming pool usable after participants have used it to wash off all that goo? Do you happen to know whether this ceremony is unique to Cunard or is it a universal ritual on all ships crossing the equator?

 

A question on your current cabin: did you choose twin beds? I was a bit surprised that there wasn't a queen or king bed in the Queen's Grill.

 

And now for the unanswered question:

The european and I went for a walk around deck 7. There is something particularly evocative about walking the deck when there is no one around and the night is lit only by the moon and the few stars that can be seen (due to the light emanating from the ship). On the horizon an island is barely visible and elsewhere the flickering lights of passing ships make for a very peaceful walk.

I sensed a budding romance between you and the European, but you left your readers dangling. Are you just being coy, or was there nothing further to report? ;)

 

Thanks again, Whitemarsh, for bringing so much wit and wisdom to this board. As I've said before, you sound like the ideal person to have as a fellow passenger!

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Whitemarsh, I can't tell you how much I'm going to miss your blog when you disembark. I usually read it at work and end up giggling like a schoolgirl over your latest observations of your fellow passengers, which has reinforced my secretary's firm conviction that I'm completely mad. I had originally been tempted to do my own blog during my upcoming TA, but now I'm intimidated: I couldn't even begin to match your highly developed skill at commenting amusingly on the passing scene.

 

Thank you :)

 

You should write your own blog, we will all read it.

 

So glad to hear that the Britannia dining room was such a positive experience! I was really beginning to wonder after hearing from so many posters that the food there has become inedible.

 

The food in the Britannia restaurant is not "inedible" as some like to claim. It's actually very, very good.

 

I must admit that the crossing of the equator ceremony threw me for a loop. The whole "smearing with goo and smacking with a fish" thing seems a bit lowbrow for the world's most civilized adventure, wouldn't you say? And why are the goo smearers and fish smackers dressed as doctors? And is the swimming pool usable after participants have used it to wash off all that goo? Do you happen to know whether this ceremony is unique to Cunard or is it a universal ritual on all ships crossing the equator?

 

No, it wasn't lowbrow - it was fun.

 

I don't know why they were dressed as doctors.

 

They emptied the pool and refilled it after the ceremony.

 

I imagine the ritual is universal on all cruise ships, however they probably all put a different spin on it.

 

A question on your current cabin: did you choose twin beds? I was a bit surprised that there wasn't a queen or king bed in the Queen's Grill.

 

You can have whatever bed setup you want.

 

And now for the unanswered question:

 

I sensed a budding romance between you and the European, but you left your readers dangling. Are you just being coy, or was there nothing further to report? ;)

 

Sorry, I didn't mean to give that impression, there was nothing going on. I was just in a world of my own taking in the view and the island and all that. It was my own thoughts - thoughts that I would have had even if I was walking alone.

 

Thanks again, Whitemarsh, for bringing so much wit and wisdom to this board. As I've said before, you sound like the ideal person to have as a fellow passenger!

 

I hope so. :)

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Originally Posted by charliedalrymple viewpost.gifyou sound like the ideal person to have as a fellow passenger!.....

 

exactly my thoughts- a fellow passengers with whom I could smoke my cigies without getting nasty looks...! Smokers are not very popular these days...! I find it so- well refreshing- that you speak so openly about you smoking there and there.

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Hi again Whitemarsh,

I have just been on one of the official Chinese web sites that document the current pollution levels in a number of their cities. Beijing appears to be not a place I would want to visit but we are going to Shanghai, a location you have just visited, a location where you took some very nice pictures.

 

What are your thoughts, memories and experiences of that city regarding this topic?

 

I accept you have soot clogged pipping and your lungs may well be full of all types of yukky stuff but I value your opinion and would like to hear your thoughts.

 

This is an extract from the Chinese site that describes the current conditions in Shanghai:

 

Primary PollutantPM2.5

 

Health effects Symptoms of sensitive groups may increase slightly, the general public is likely to have irritant symptoms

 

Cautionary Statements The following groups should reduce prolonged or heavy outdoor exertion:People with heart or lung disease, Children and older adults.

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Hi again Whitemarsh,

I have just been on one of the official Chinese web sites that document the current pollution levels in a number of their cities. Beijing appears to be not a place I would want to visit but we are going to Shanghai, a location you have just visited, a location where you took some very nice pictures.

 

What are your thoughts, memories and experiences of that city regarding this topic?

 

I accept you have soot clogged pipping and your lungs may well be full of all types of yukky stuff but I value your opinion and would like to hear your thoughts.

 

This is an extract from the Chinese site that describes the current conditions in Shanghai:

 

 

The sky was overcast and grey in Shanghai but I wasn't overcome from smog or general pollution. People kept mentioning the pollution but it didn't worry me and I didn't really notice it to be honest.

 

The only warning I have regarding Shanghai is to watch out for the colds & flu that people seem to pick up there and then bring back to ship. We had so many colds & flu going around the ship after Shanghai - there were even sick crew members.

 

Have a save journey home Peter- Whitemarsh- and then welcome to normal again! Thank you for letting us cruise with you!

Michael

 

Thanks, I'll do a wrap-up of the voyage soon. Along with some additional photos.

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The only warning I have regarding Shanghai is to watch out for the colds & flu that people seem to pick up there and then bring back to ship. We had so many colds & flu going around the ship after Shanghai - there were even sick crew members.

 

 

 

Thanks, I'll do a wrap-up of the voyage soon. Along with some additional photos.

Thank you and something worthy of consideration. I accept what you experienced might not be relevant in the future but it would be awful to catch the real flu whilst on holiday. (not the far worse 'man' flu)

 

Thanks for the reply

John

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Thanks Peter for the sense of feeling I was on the voyage with you.

 

As Queen Mary 2 is in Brisbane today, I feel its pull to book another QM2 cruise... However we have 2 big holidays (one a cruise) booked already. Maybe next year....

 

Thanks again:)

 

Brisbane ain't such a bad place to return too. Except for the rain....

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Whitemarsh,

Just wanted to add my thanks for the time you took out of your trip to blog to us all who have been following you every day on here - not sure what I am going to do now as it looks as if your trip is coming to an end!

Thank you for your wit & wisdom, for answering all questions with clear honesty & for making us feel we were there with you - please don't forget to do a voyage wrap up - I can feel the withdrawal symptons already. Safe journey back home & I hope it's not too long to your next trip so I can hold on to your (fashionable) coat tails again!

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Its been a real pleasure reading your diary of being onboard QM2......

 

If only you could stay onboard until the ship comes back to New York City.....I believe a Thank You Luncheon is in order( we do looooooong lunches here usually running into cocktail hour & then a supper).

 

Safe travels home...I'm sure the Countess will be happy to have you back and planning your next adventure!!!

 

Thank you once again from New York, NY!!!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

QM2 “Back of House Tour” – one passenger’s close encounter with the inner mysteries of Cunard’s great ocean liner

 

On the QM2’s recent voyage between Hong Kong and Sydney, Whitemarsh was unable to secure one of the 16 places available for passengers to do the “Back of House” tour of the ship. This tour is given once every voyage or once in every sector of a world cruise, generally towards the end of the voyage or sector. Because I secured a place on this tour, I promised to add a review to Whitemarsh’s Blog.

 

General Comments

 

Many people have commented on the small number of passengers permitted on the tour, and also the cost ($120). In relation to these matters, it seems clear to me that Cunard is not running this tour at any kind of profit, given the number of officers and crew involved, and the amount of organising that would be required in advance of each tour. As will be apparent from the summary of the tour set out below, this is a 3½ hour tour involving personnel from all manner of on-board divisions as diverse as the Environmental Compliance Officer (Garbage Department) to the Commodore, and it is wonderful that all such persons are prepared to take time out from their busy schedules to participate in the tour. Due to the nature of the confined spaces of many of the locations visited on the tour, it would not be realistic to have more than 16 people on the tour.

 

It is apparent that the officers and crew on board treat this tour very seriously and try to do their best to impart the maximum information to the participants in the time available. A waiver form received by each passenger some days prior to the tour reinforces that this tour should not be undertaken lightly, and is only for able-bodied passengers.

 

[Extract from Waiver form]

 

Carrier not liable and assumption of risk.

 

By participating in the Queen Mary 2 Back of House Tour or related activities you voluntarily assume all risk of injury, death, illness, danger or other loss and you agree Carrier is not liable or responsible for it. Workplaces visited by you are not normally accessible to guests and may involve inherent risk, danger and hazards including without limitation injury caused by exposure to high decibel levels, fumes, smoke, extreme temperatures, chemical odours, standing water, sharp pointed objects, heavy, industrial or dangerous equipment and cramped or enclosed places. These risks cannot be eliminated without altering the unique character of the Tour and Carrier cannot guarantee your safety.”

 

Description of the Tour

 

Having signed away one’s rights, the tour commences at Connexions on Deck 2 where the Entertainment Director, (in this instance Paul O’Loughlin) gives a brief welcome and hands the group over to a member of the entertainment staff as tour leader and a couple of security officers. The security officers are presumably to ensure none of us get lost, keep us in line, and ensure no photography or video recording takes place. There is nothing in the rules about not taking notes, and I do so, although one of the security men seems quite perturbed by this.

 

Our first port of call is in the domain of the Deputy Captain, Dariusz Gozdzik. We are taken up a series of steep stairways to the Mooring Deck and the Anchor Deck where Dariusz gives a talk about the operation of the equipment on those decks. Given that we are north of Brisbane at the time of the tour, the Mooring Deck is very hot and humid with a rather slippery surface to the floor. Luckily we don’t lose any passengers to mishaps. On the Mooring Deck I am interested to see the monstrous 220m long ropes on their winches all ready to secure us at the next port of call. There are 8 sets of these ropes forward, and 8 sets aft. When the ropes are secured, there are up to 25 tonnes of force applied in automatic tension to these ropes.

 

The Anchor Deck is of course dominated by the huge 24 tonne anchor and Dariusz gives a talk about the different kinds of problems encountered in anchoring in particular surfaces such as coral, sand etc.

 

We then proceed downstairs to the Medical Centre, where we are handed over to one of the two medical officers on board. The doctor shows us around the Medical Centre, where we see the intensive care room, ordinary hospital beds, the radiology section and the treatment room. As we have heard before, QM2 (unlike QE2) has no operating theatre. The explanation for this is said to be that it is too dangerous to do operations at sea. All that the medical team can do in respect of passengers that may need surgery is to stabilise and preserve them as far as possible, until the next port is reached, or if an emergency, it might be required to call for evacuation of the passenger by boat or by helicopter. We are told that evacuation by boat is relatively straightforward, but evacuation by helicopter can be very difficult and many sick passengers probably could not endure the lifting into the hovering helicopter from the decks, via a basket. The QM2’s decks are not sufficiently reinforced to take the weight of a helicopter landing.

 

Our next visit is to the crew bar, the crew mess and the officers’ bar. These are situated in relatively close proximity. We merely peek inside. The rooms appear functional, but when you are in these places it is hard to imagine it is the same vessel with the elegant Queens Room, Britannia Restaurant or Commodore Club. It is useful to see these crew amenities and realise the distinction between the two worlds on board of passengers and crew.

 

We are then handed to the Crew Housekeeper, who states he has been working for Cunard for 30 years. He is an engaging man who provides us with many statistics, particularly about the transportation of luggage. We see a large number of cages for baggage that will be in use the following day as 800 passengers leave the QM2 in Brisbane. We are told that Cunard expects each passenger will bring 1.7 to 1.9 pieces of baggage per person. However, on one memorable occasion, a couple with two children arrived for a transatlantic crossing with 224 bags.

 

Next we are introduced to the Environmental Compliance Officer, whose first love is obviously rubbish and the disposal thereof. He notes that since the QM2 left Shanghai 9 days ago, about 400 pallets of waste had been incinerated on board. The garbage room works 24 hours per day, staffed by a crew of 6, whose job seems to be mainly sorting rubbish into that which can be incinerated, that ground up and fed to the fishes (i.e. food waste) and other waste that is stored and later put ashore. He notes that Cunard remains responsible for waste put ashore until such time that the waste reaches its point of final disposal. On average, QM2 produces about 1 tonne of glass waste and 1 tonne of food waste per day, plus lesser amounts of other waste including hazardous waste, used cooking oil waste, aluminium and steel waste and plastics waste. Much waste is also recycled.

 

Our next stop is the Engine Control Room, which is manned 24 hours per day. The Chief Engineer, Phil Aldridge, gives a 15 minute talk about the work of the engineers and the relevant features of the vessel such as the propulsion system, electrical power generation and fuel consumption. He notes that between Shanghai and Brisbane, the vessel has used about 1700 tonnes of fuel, and although we are taking on fuel in Australia, this will only be to a minimum level since the cost of fuel is very high in Australia. I expect that this is due to the current exchange rate between the US and AU currencies.

 

We are then directed to the Safety Officer who gives us a demonstration of the fire-fighting equipment available on QM2. One of the specialist fire fighters is dressed up in fire fighting garb and there is a demonstration of a thermal imaging camera which is attached to his helmet. This technology was purchased by Cunard at a cost of US$24000 per helmet.

 

We are then guided to members of the food and beverage section, where we are shown inside one of the 21 large refrigerated store rooms, this one containing boxes of meat. These large store rooms are located on Deck 1 and the two decks below (Decks A and B). One of the things I find interesting in these crew areas are the plans of QM2 which are posted on walls throughout the area. The plans are in meticulous detail and it is interesting to see, for example, the cross-section of the lower decks, including the “Bottom” Deck. These lower decks are never shown on Cunard promotional materials. The placement of the pods and related propulsion systems can be seen clearly on these plans.

 

QM2 has various food preparation rooms, including those for preparation of fruit and vegetables, those for preparation of fish, a butchery and a bakery. We are shown into the butchery and are introduced to the notorious broken hamburger preparation machine that has been out of action since Shanghai, hence no hamburgers. It is revealed that Cunard wisely declined to take any hamburger meat In Shanghai due to concerns about what might be in it, and also refused to take on fresh water in Shanghai when it was tested and found to contain too many chemicals.

 

Our next stop on the tour is the Britannia Restaurant galley, where we are introduced to the Executive Chef. There are currently 162 chefs on board, and with a separate galley for each restaurant. We are shown various parts of the Britannia Restaurant galley, including the pot wash area, the production galley (vegetables) and the stands where the completed dishes are placed ready for collection by the waiters. An overhead screen comes to life during mealtimes and it displays the orders being taken by the waiters so that the chefs can keep up with demand for particular dishes.

 

Ascending the escalator to the Britannia Restaurant (upper level) we are given some afternoon refreshments of champagne, sandwiches and cakes. By this point, the tour has taken 2 hours.

 

Following afternoon tea, we are shown to the Royal Court Theatre on Deck 2, where we are asked to mount onto the stage. Two members of the entertainment staff are waiting to show us backstage, and we also meet two members of the Cunard dance troupe who are dressed in costume. The two dancers give a brief explanation of their work and the shows presented on board. It is interesting to see into the very cramped areas which are backstage of the Royal Court Theatre and seem mainly to be filled with costumes. We are shown into the sound booth and the lighting technician also explains to us his work and the technology he uses to create the best effects.

 

Our last visit of the tour is our longest, and most definitely the highlight of the tour for me. With a great sense of excitement we ascend in the lifts to Deck 12, where we are shown onto the Bridge. Commodore Rynd is waiting for us, and he also introduces us to two officers who are presently in charge of the operation of the vessel. The Commodore gives us an enthusiastic talk about the ship and her capabilities, and he demonstrates some of the navigational systems. He then advises that each person has an opportunity to sit in the Captain’s Chair, wearing the captain’s hat, and have a photograph taken with him. All this is included in the price of the tour, and the photograph is later delivered to my cabin. Following the photographic session, the Commodore shows us to the portside bridge wing where we marvel over the spectacular views of QM2 plunging through the churning seas below. I enjoy peering down through the two glass observation panels in the flooring. From this vantage point and in these somewhat rough sea conditions, that the majesty of this liner and her capabilities can truly be appreciated.

 

The Commodore demonstrates various of the navigational systems and is happy to answer every question posed. Here in the Bridge we see him in his element and his love for this ship is apparent. But as the Commodore states, although he is the public face of the ship, it is the whole team on board that makes the QM2 so special. I am sure that all those who participated in the “Back of House” Tour are grateful to have met a key selection of this dedicated team of people going about their everyday activities on this magnificent liner.

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