South Georgia - Avian Bird Flu

[Pumblechook]

Expanding what Port power has said about Bird Flu.  SS have told us that each cruise line gets 'rated' according to their biosecurity measures, and the results of inspections.  They claim to have the top rating, and therefore have access to as many sites as are open.  At the moment that's 3 sites in all of Sth Georgia; we did 2 in one day.  At other sites we could do a zodiac 'drive by' of the beach.

 

Of course this rating/access might be a bit of puff by SilverSeas.

 

The Bird Flu has crossed into the mammal population; I believe it attacks their brain.  I have seen far, far more dead seals than dead penguins, both at landing sites and drive-bys, but possibly because of their bulk.  The only predators of dead animals here are skuas.

 

One of the Expedition team said that the bird flu usually goes in 2 year cycles; if so, this season will be the worst in this cycle, but we shall see.

 

The presence of bird flu will not lessen your enjoyment here, except for seeing seal carcases.

[Pumblechook]

On 12/26/2023 at 3:25 PM, CJL2 said:

On another note, how do you like the experience with Silversea? We went with Ponant last time and have mixed comments.

 

If I may.  I used Ponant in the Kimberlys Australia (Le Laperouse) last year, and SS (S Wind) here and now.   Both have pros and cons.  So far, Ponant had better expedition team but of course there you get calm, warm water and here its often blowing hard and there is Bird Flu affecting landings.  But the SS team seems to have a number of first timers to the area and detailed knowledge is often lacking. We don't get an evening recap of what we saw during the day, only a very general forecast of the locations for the next day, which I think is a major deficiency. I have given feedback about that.

 

Food and bev better here on the Wind (especially the wines), although again, I feel that many of the wait staff are pretty new so lack some experience.

 

Our Captain is very passenger-experience-friendly, deviating for us to see big icebergs, so far, and there have been announcements about wildlife while sailing.  The captain on Le LaPerouse last year was NOT passenger friendly and we never heard about passing wildlife.

 

So far I'm calling it a draw, but again noting different cruises and different conditions.

[labrasett]

25 minutes ago, Pumblechook said:

 

If I may.  I used Ponant in the Kimberlys Australia (Le Laperouse) last year, and SS (S Wind) here and now.   Both have pros and cons.  So far, Ponant had better expedition team but of course there you get calm, warm water and here its often blowing hard and there is Bird Flu affecting landings.  But the SS team seems to have a number of first timers to the area and detailed knowledge is often lacking. We don't get an evening recap of what we saw during the day, only a very general forecast of the locations for the next day, which I think is a major deficiency. I have given feedback about that.

 

Food and bev better here on the Wind (especially the wines), although again, I feel that many of the wait staff are pretty new so lack some experience.

 

Our Captain is very passenger-experience-friendly, deviating for us to see big icebergs, so far, and there have been announcements about wildlife while sailing.  The captain on Le LaPerouse last year was NOT passenger friendly and we never heard about passing wildlife.

 

So far I'm calling it a draw, but again noting different cruises and different conditions.

I absolutely hate comments which compare like for like in the same place at much the same time.  Who can whether Ponant have a better expedition team it is in the perception of the passengers at the time with no like for like comparison (who wouldnt be possible).  Just get on with your cruise and enjoy what YOU.  This is very personal what is great for one person is less so for another.

[CJL2]

Thanks very much for both these comments. I read that they have tested the dead seals and it was NOT bird flu, but they have not said what the cause of the mass deaths haven been. Hoping the bird flu is contained and excited at the possibility of getting to visit South Georgia on foot.

 

As for the Ponant/SS comparison - my experience is a bit tainted because it was a Solar Eclipse charter to Antarctica, during COVID (Nov 2021) and the whole thing was a complete disaster - one landing in Antarctica due to horrible weather (7m waves), four days out bof our way to chase an eclipse that didn't happen (well it of course happened, but we were completely covered in cloud). I did like the Ponant ship, and found the food excellent (if a bit repetitive). The wines however were an awful embarrassment, especially for a French cruise line, and communications from the Captain and the senior members of the crew were absolutely atrocious (non-existent). This was especially distressing since we basically spent the entire 10 days at sea - the most expensive (and rough) boat ride in history. In fact, our Captain was basically AWOL the entire trip.

 

The lectures were decent but not great, and I can't say much about the expedition team because we only got one landing! Not even any additional zodiac cruises!

 

Finally, many passengers sent letters to Ponant senior management, and they basically ignored all our concerns and blamed everybody else. 

 

So, no matter what, this trip is sure to be better than the last one! I am looking forward to a different company and to all the excursions, and free kayaking (which Ponant would have charged for had the weather made kayaking possible). Also being a bit of an admitted wine snob (life's too short to drink crap wine, and it doesn't have to be expensive!) I'm thrilled to see the huge and very decent complimentary wine list from Silversea - a huge step up from Ponant. Ditto the food menus - they look varied and amazing!

 

As for the comment about comparing like for like, I think it's what a lot of people want, and it's very helpfu for people to make their decision on future cruises based on what's important to them. It's not a matter of better or worse, but strengths and weaknesses.

 

Thanks again for your input. T minus 8 days! Can't wait!

 

CJ 

 

Edited December 29, 2023 by CJL2

[Pumblechook]

1 hour ago, labrasett said:

I absolutely hate comments which compare like for like in the same place at much the same time.  Who can whether Ponant have a better expedition team it is in the perception of the passengers at the time with no like for like comparison (who wouldnt be possible).  Just get on with your cruise and enjoy what YOU.  This is very personal what is great for one person is less so for another.

I'm not sure what you are saying here, and whether or not its for me or CJL2. I simply responded, with qualifications, to a question from CJL2, based on my experiences, no-one else's.  Hopefully CLJ2 found it useful.

[Pumblechook]

1 hour ago, CJL2 said:

The wines however were an awful embarrassment, especially for a French cruise line, and communications from the Captain and the senior members of the crew were absolutely atrocious (non-existent). This was especially distressing since we basically spent the entire 10 days at sea - the most expensive (and rough) boat ride in history. In fact, our Captain was basically AWOL the entire trip.

 

That this almost exactly mimics my experience with Ponant last year in the Kimberley is a bit alarming.

 

1 hour ago, CJL2 said:

Also being a bit of an admitted wine snob (life's too short to drink crap wine, and it doesn't have to be expensive!) I'm thrilled to see the huge and very decent complimentary wine list from Silversea - a huge step up from Ponant. Ditto the food menus - they look varied and amazing!

 

I agree about the wine.  Unlike my Ponant trip, I haven't had to resort to the "pay extra" wine list here! Solid selection of reds and whites from around the world.

 

I'm sure you will be pleased with your SS trip.  Got the best chance of seeing the good stuff, but always weather dependent!

[CJL2]

21 minutes ago, Pumblechook said:

I'm not sure what you are saying here, and whether or not its for me or CJL2. I simply responded, with qualifications, to a question from CJL2, based on my experiences, no-one else's.  Hopefully CLJ2 found it useful.

He did! Thanks 😁

[Mahogany]

My favorite trip in my lifetime was Antarctica on Le Ponant's Le Boreal 10 years ago. The Captain was a big part of that, always alerting us to a sighting, especially a humpa-backa (his pronunciation). And the expedition team was phenomenal! Also don't remember paying for wine. The voyage I was on was chartered by Abercrombie & Kent, so English the first language; maybe their involvement improved the quality. Guess I just got lucky on my voyage.

[CJL2]

2 hours ago, Mahogany said:

My favorite trip in my lifetime was Antarctica on Le Ponant's Le Boreal 10 years ago. The Captain was a big part of that, always alerting us to a sighting, especially a humpa-backa (his pronunciation). And the expedition team was phenomenal! Also don't remember paying for wine. The voyage I was on was chartered by Abercrombie & Kent, so English the first language; maybe their involvement improved the quality. Guess I just got lucky on my voyage.

I think we just got unlucky! We were on Le Boreal, but a charter out of Texas (we're from Canada) by Eclipse Tours (Paul Maley). The whole thing was a s**t show. The guest manager, who was great, said it was by far the worst voyage he's ever done. In his words "it was ridiculous".

 

Thus the return, but on a different cruise line this time!

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

18 hours ago, Pumblechook said:

But the SS team seems to have a number of first timers to the area and detailed knowledge is often lacking.

 

Thanks for your thoughtful comparisons. 

 

IMHO

It seems with the expansion of luxury expedition ships the availability of good expedition staff has spread out.  Whilst most ships will usually have a few top members with local knowledge,  the balance are now just zodiac drivers. If you're lucky you will get a good driver who is at least entertaining and made an effort to learn something of the local flora and fauna.

 

  Exceptions apply to this generality.  On a recent Fiji to Broome, the first leg was one the best expedition teams we have ever encountered, the second leg after a change in Cairns paled by comparison.  Perhaps the luck of the draw and not specific to any one cruise line.

 

Over the years we have often seen some  our favorite expedition staff bounce between Seabourn and Silversea.  We now see some on other cruise lines. Perhaps the lure of better accommodations, different itineraries, and of course money.

[Port Power]

We have not seen dead penguins so far, but definitely dead fur seals.  However, the ban on landing also means mass events are unseen.

 

There was almost another landing this morning, but it was the pack ice that prevented it.  We do not want to be stranded on land by ice.  Our zodiac driver has been through such an experience.  It took hours to get them back to the ship.

 

After landing on Elephant Island yesterday, there was a foot wash to walk through when returning to the mud room.

[highplanesdrifters]

18 hours ago, Port Power said:

After landing on Elephant Island yesterday,

 

Amazing that you got a landing on Elephant Island. Only seen it from a distance.  Gives me chills.  I'd be happy with a zodiac ride. 😃

[Port Power]

7 minutes ago, highplanesdrifters said:

 

Amazing that you got a landing on Elephant Island. Only seen it from a distance.  Gives me chills.  I'd be happy with a zodiac ride. 😃

This afternoon we will be setting foot on Antarctica proper: the actual continent.  There is also a hike for the very hardy.

[Pumblechook]

On 1/1/2024 at 8:55 AM, highplanesdrifters said:

 

Amazing that you got a landing on Elephant Island. Only seen it from a distance.  Gives me chills.  I'd be happy with a zodiac ride. 😃

 

It was the first time any of the Expedition team had landed there.  Exped leader said today that it was one of his highlights over 5 years in the business.

[highplanesdrifters]

21 hours ago, Pumblechook said:

 

It was the first time any of the Expedition team had landed there.  Exped leader said today that it was one of his highlights over 5 years in the business.

Imagine if Shackleton had found that beach instead of the little spit he landed on.