Our DIY Pre-cruise in Tokyo, Osaka & Kyoto

[cboyle]

Prior to our May, 2024, back-to-back cruises on the Ponant Le Soléal, (“The Best of Japan” and “Cultural and Natural Treasures of Japan by Sea-with Smithsonian Journeys”) we spent five nights in Tokyo and two nights in Osaka on our own. While we were in Osaka, we took a day-long guided tour of Kyoto.

 

This report is a journal of what we did each day, including web links to tourist information sites and maps. We hope that our experiences will encourage others cruising to Japan to plan a pre-cruise experience on their own.

 

ABOUT US

 

John and I (Carolyn) are retired Mississippi State University professors in our early seventies, who currently reside in central North Carolina. Both of us are natives of New Orleans and, as such, are interested in good food and wine. Fortunately, neither of us has mobility issues. We also exercise regularly, walking six miles a day for five days a week.

 

SUGGESTED RESOURCES

“History of Japan: Revised Edition Revised Edition, Kindle Edition” (2011) by Richard Mason and J. G. Caiger  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LPUEPK/)

2.  

3. "Tokyo Before Tokyo: Power and Magic in the Shogun's City of Edo” (2020)  by Timon Screech (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L6MQH41/)

 

Google Translate App (https://support.google.com/translate/answer/6350850)

 

“StreetSmart®Tokyo Map (English and Japanese Edition)” (2024) by Stephan Van Dam  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1934395684/)

 

Truly Tokyo Travel Guide (https://trulytokyo.com/) This site has valuable information on all aspects of travel to Tokyo, including suggested itineraries.

 

[cboyle]

SUNDAY, MAY 5, 2024—En route to TOKYO HANEDA

 

Despite a disappointing experience with Air Canada in the past, they had the best combination of schedule and cost for our Business Class flights from Raleigh/Durham (RDU) to Tokyo Haneda (HND), with a connection in Toronto (YYZ). We decided to carry on our luggage for the flights to Japan, but we checked it for the flights home.

 

There is no Air Canada lounge at RDU, but we could have used the United (a Star Alliance member) lounge. That is, we could have if it had opened earlier than 5 a.m. because our flight boarded at 5:30 a.m. We did have a hot breakfast on the short flight to Toronto: omelet, hash browns, chicken sausage, fruit salad, and roll.

 

Once in Toronto, only one other person joined us on the long trek to International Departures. That and the fact that we had already registered our immigration information with ArriveCAN (https://www.canada.ca/en/border-services-agency/services/arrivecan.html), made passport control trivial.

 

Flying Business Class gave us access to the Air Canada Signature Suite, but that didn't open until 10:15 am. Luckily it is right next to a Plaza Premium lounge and we have access to that through Priority Pass. We spent most of our time there dozing.

 

Once the Signature Suite opened, we moved there. There was a place to check our luggage and we were offered a complimentary three-course lunch accompanied by our choice of alcoholic beverages. We both started with foie gras and chicken liver paté with Champagne. Next was grilled flank steak with roasted fingerling potatoes and broccolini; we drank a Barbera from the Piedmont region of Italy. Finally we had a slice of olive oil lemon cake with pistachio ice cream and a glass of dessert wine. After a decaf cappuccino, we moved to the lounge area and tried a glass of Canadian Pinot Noir. This meal surpassed anything we have ever eaten in an airport lounge!

 

On the flight to Tokyo, we had another three-course meal that was no comparison to the Signature Suite lunch. Before landing, we had another breakfast that was the same as the earlier one with the addition of a bowl of muesli. As an alternative to the omelet, there was a beef and egg stir-fry option; John tried that and wasn't impressed.

Edited June 24 by cboyle
Remove boldface.

[cboyle]

MONDAY, MAY 6, 2024—Tokyo, japan

 

Immigration and customs at Tokyo's Haneda Airport were completely different from in Toronto. The humongous line wound back and forth, but went pretty quickly. We had pre-registered our information with Visit Japan Web (https://www.digital.go.jp/en/services/visit_japan_web-en), but that didn't seem to be more expeditious than filling in a physical landing card. After being photographed and fingerprinted (both index fingers), we were finally cleared to enter Japan.

 

Truly Tokyo has an excellent guide to arriving at Haneda (https://trulytokyo.com/arriving-at-tokyo-haneda-international-airport/), complete with photos. After exiting customs into the arrivals hall, we first stopped at a Seven Bank ATM to withdraw ¥30,000 (about $200) with our CapitalOne debit card. There are ATMs on both sides of the exit into the arrivals hall from customs.  Japan is more cash-oriented than we expected, but ATMs are widely available at konbini (convenience stores) like 7-Eleven, Family Mart, or Lawson.

 

Then we took the escalator one flight up to the departures hall, where we could pick up the pocket WiFi that we had rented for our week in Tokyo and Osaka. We rented from Japan Wireless through Get Your Guide (https://www.getyourguide.com/tokyo-l193/japan-unlimited-4g-pocket-wi-fi-haneda-airport-pick-up-t654734/) for $30 for seven days, which included a pre-paid, self-addressed envelope to return the device at any mailbox in Japan. This made using our cell phones really convenient without having to access an international phone package for them. We probably could have used an eSIM, but our cell phones were not unlocked. The cell phones were great for navigating the subway systems.

 

If, like us, you plan to make extensive use of the excellent transit system in Tokyo, you will want to obtain an IC (integrated circuit) card to avoid buying tickets for each ride. Visitors to Japan who want a physical card can choose either the Welcome Suica (https://www.jreast.co.jp/multi/en/welcomesuica/welcomesuica.html) or the Pasmo Passport (https://www.pasmo.co.jp/visitors/en/).

 

However, we thought it was much more convenient to use Apple Pay to load an IC card (we chose Suica) into our Apple Wallets (https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207154) before we left NC. These mobile IC cards are valid anywhere in Japan that a physical IC or prepaid card can be used. However, it is much easier to purchase them before traveling to Japan and to add additional value (any amount) to the card after arrival. Be aware that not all US credit cards can be used to buy (or reload) an IC card with Apple Pay. None of our VISA cards worked for us; we had to use American Express. YMMV.

 

We used Google Maps to find the easiest way to reach our hotel without having to change trains. In our case, that meant taking the Keikyū Airport Line to the Takarachō Station (A-12 on the Toei Asakusa Line) and walking about a quarter mile; that takes about 40 minutes. Now it was time to find out whether the mobile Suica would work on the train; it performed flawlessly. We did have a little confusion about which train to take, but there was a helpful staffer at the boarding area to help us out. You have no idea how many times we were thankful for having the Suica system on our cell phones! Tap on the screen at each ticket gate, listen for the bing, and move on; repeat upon exiting.

 

After leaving the subway, we walked to the hotel, only making a short accidental detour to Tokyo Station. Most of the streets are not labeled in English, so we missed the turn to the hotel. We only walked about four extra blocks and we needed the fresh air anyway.

 

We stayed at the Courtyard Tokyo Station (https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/tyogz-courtyard-tokyo-station/overview/) using Marriott Bonvoy points. The location is great: it is just a couple of short blocks to Tokyo Station and less than a block to Kyobashi Station (G-10 on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line), giving you easy access to the sights of Tokyo. The hotel has more going for it than just the great location though. We received a complimentary upgrade from a Cozy Double to a Creators Double. The room was tiny, but it was neat and functional. The shower was excellent and the toilet was a Japanese treat (https://allabout-japan.com/en/article/5983). Included with the room were slippers and a robe. The robe was more like a large nightshirt, but it was still a robe. For Marriott Platinum Elite and above, a superb breakfast at the Lava Rock Restaurant was included and snacks were available in the lobby 24/7. Snacks included beer, wine, soft drinks, chips, candy, and ice cream. From 5:30-9 p.m., smoked salmon, cold cuts, and edamame were added. This was an excellent perk! The staff was exceptionally nice and helpful.

 

After we got settled in our room, we set up the pocket WiFi. We had no trouble following the instructions to connect our two iPhones to the unit. It would prove to be a big help finding our way around with Google Maps. After that, we went to the complimentary happy hour for some beer and snacks. Then we tried to stay awake to reset our body clocks—John made it to 9 p.m. and I followed soon after.

[cboyle]

Tuesday, MAY 7, 2024—Tokyo, japan (Imperial Palace Area)

 

This morning we took a tour of the grounds of the Imperial Palace. On the way to the tour meeting point, we checked out Tokyo Station (https://www.tokyostationcity.com/en/), where we would be catching the Shinkansen bullet train to Osaka on Saturday. This is the busiest train station in Japan and is the hub for subways and bus lines as well. It truly is a warren, but we finally made our way to the opposite side.

 

From the station, we walked to the Kokyo Gaien National Garden (https://fng.or.jp/koukyo/en/); these are the Outer Gardens of the Imperial Palace. The Outer Gardens are more of a park than a garden with mostly Kuromatsu pine trees. In addition to the moats and the Palace walls we viewed several sites, including the statue of a famous samurai (Kusunoki Masashige), the oldest gate (Sakurada-mon, restored), and a stone bridge that is one of the main entrances to the Palace.

 

The stone bridge, Kōkyo Seimon Ishibashi, has two arches, so its reflection in the moat looks like a pair of eyeglasses; hence its nickname is the "Spectacle Bridge (Meganebashi)." That bridge is in front of the other main entrance, an iron bridge called Seimon Tetsubashi. The later is also known as the “Double Bridge (Nijubashi)” because it was originally made of wood and the structure was reinforced for support. The two bridges with an historic watchtower (Fushimi-yagura) in the background make a popular image of the Palace.

 

The meeting time for our tour of the Imperial Palace was 9:30-9:50 am, so we had time to walk around to several more gates and garden areas. Unfortunately, the East Gardens were closed today. During our walk, it started to rain, but we were prepared with umbrellas.

 

The one-hour guided tour of the Imperial Palace grounds is free, but you either have to get a permit ahead of time online (https://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp/english/guide/institution_kokyo.html) or stand in line on the day. I managed to apply for a permit for the 10 a.m. tour as soon as they became available (at 5 a.m. JST on the first day of the previous month); two days later, there was only one space left for that time slot. These tours are extremely popular, so get in line early if you have not applied online. It was raining today, so the line was not very long.

 

To enter at the Kikyō-mon Gate, I had to show our permit; we were checked off on a list and given a numbered tag. Everyone with permits was herded into a building to wait for the start of the tour. By now the rain had picked up, so the small gift shop was doing a brisk business in umbrellas. For some reason the official app (https://www.kunaicho.go.jp/e-event/app.html) with the tour description did not work: deleting and reloading the app later solved the problem. Luckily, the tours would be offered today in English, Spanish, French, and Mandarin Chinese, as well as Japanese.

 

The English-speaking group was huge. There was only one guide and the guide's microphone was not loud enough for us to hear her clearly. It helped that we were given a brochure with photos and descriptions of each building in English. This is a working palace and the home of the Imperial Family, so we could only view the various buildings from the outside. The Palace itself seems rather plain in comparison to ones like Buckingham Palace or Versailles. The architect was a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, so the Palace blends modern Western and Japanese features.

 

After the tour, we visited Hibiya Park (https://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/park/hibiya/assets/files/hibiya_eng.pdf), which is adjacent to the Imperial Palace grounds. This is a small park, but has some nice features, such as an ancient ginko tree and some interesting stone monuments. One monument is a piece of stone money from Yap and another is a stone from Antarctica that was brought back by a Japanese research team (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/hibiya-park). There was a lot of interest in Western flowers in the later part of the 19th century and the garden in Hibiya Park was the first to display plants like roses and tulips to the Japanese public.

 

By the time we got back to the hotel, we had walked 7.5 miles and were wearing down. We took what was supposed to be a 30-minute nap that ended up being 1.5 hours. This 13-hour time difference is brutal! Anyway, we both felt a lot better afterwards and decided to go out to see a couple of sights near the hotel.

 

Chuo-dori, the street where the hotel is situated, has been the center of a commercial district since Edo (now Tokyo) was just a fishing village. This street crosses the Nihonbashi River only a few blocks from the hotel. The first bridge there was ordered by Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the last shogunate in the early 17th century. The bridge is the point from which all distances from Tokyo are measured. The current bridge dates to the early 20th century and is guarded by bronze statues of mythical lion dogs and dragon-like Kirin (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kirin-statues-nihonbashi).

 

Another minor sight is a few blocks farther away, located inside the main branch of the Mitsukoshi  department store. This is a huge, seven-ton carving of the Buddhist goddess of serenity, carved from 500-year-old wood. The image is decorated with precious metals and over 12,000 gemstones. It took the artist ten years to create. There were several other tourists snapping photos of this impressive statue (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/magokoro-tennyo-goddess-sincerity). The store even had employees there to take our picture.

 

All of that walking added another 1.5 miles, for a total of 9 for the day. No wonder we are tired!

[cboyle]

Wednesday, MAY 8, 2024—Tokyo, japan (Day Tour to Mt. Fuji)

 

This morning the weather had turned colder and rainy. It did clear up later in the afternoon.

 

Today we took a private day trip with Tour Master (https://www.viator.com/tours/Tokyo/Mt-Fuji-and-Hakone-Day-Trip/d334-130384P1) to the area around the north side of Mt. Fuji, where we could hope to have several classic views of the mountain. Unfortunately Mt. Fuji was partially obscured by clouds all day, although we did get a brief glimpse of the peak at one point.

 

We had arranged for the guide, Mukarram, to pick us up at 7:30 a.m. instead of the usual 8:30 a.m. start time to avoid traffic. Mukarram said that we saved several hours of travel time by starting early and not getting stuck in the rush hour traffic, especially on the return to Tokyo. Also, we could beat the bus tours to the popular sites; we would be leaving when they were just arriving.

 

It took about two hours to reach our first stop, Oshino Hakkai (https://yamanakako.info/8lakes_top.php). This is a small village noted for its traditional setting and view of Mt. Fuji. There are eight koi ponds with rainbow and blue koi and historic buildings. The main street is lined with numerous food stalls and craft/souvenir stores. We were just leaving when a busload of tourists arrived.

 

Our next stop was in Fujiyoshida at the Kitaguchi Hongū Fuji Sengen Jinja (https://sengenjinja.jp/english/index.html) This shrine, like over a thousand others across Japan, is dedicated to Princess Konohanasakuya, the Shinto deity associated with Mt. Fuji. Fujiyoshida's Sengen Shrine is in a dense cedar forest and can be reached by a long path lined with stone lanterns. At the end of the path is the largest torii (vermillion wooden gate) in Japan. The visitor parking lot is near the torii, so we did not walk the forest path. Mukarram pointed out two cedar trees flanking the shrine: one was over 1,000 years old and the other, known as the Married Couple Tree, is actually two trees that are joined above the ground. Both of these trees are encircled by a rope of made rice straw (shimenawa), which signifies their sacred nature. He showed us the main shrine, which is over 400 years old, and explained the prayer ritual for showing devotion to the goddess.

 

Next we drove to Lake Kawaguchi. Along the way, we passed a Lawson convenience store in Fujikawaguchiko that had recently become a casualty of social media popularity. A photo of the store with Mt. Fuji in the background has come to epitomize Japan and is highly desirable. So many tourists were behaving badly by congregating in the parking lot, carelessly crossing the street, and trespassing on nearby private property, that the town was planning to erect opaque black screens to block the view.

 

Lake Kawaguchi is the second largest lake in the Mt. Fuji area and visitors can enjoy views of the mountain from a cruise on the lake or the Mt. Fuji Panoramic Ropeway (https://www.mtfujiropeway.jp/en/). We opted for the ropeway (as cable cars are called in Japan).

 

The ropeway is also called the Kachi Kachi Ropeway because it is the setting for the "Kachi-Kachi Yama," a folktale featuring a tanuki (raccoon dog) and a rabbit. Although this is a rather sordid story (involving murder, cannibalism, torture, and drowning), there are cartoon statues of the tanuki (villain) and rabbit (hero) illustrating the story and a shrine to the rabbit at the top of the ropeway. There are also an observation platform, hiking trails, and other attractions, such as a wishing bell that will ensure true love. We only spent a short time up here, hoping for a better view of Mt. Fuji. Again, the crowds were arriving as we were leaving.

 

We drove a little farther along the lake and stopped for lunch at a Japanese traditional restaurant, Shokujidokoro Tsujiya, a family operation patronized by many small tour groups (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1165976-d7486191-Reviews-Shokujidokoro_Tsujiya-Fujikawaguchiko_machi_Minamitsuru_gun_Yamanashi_Prefecture.html). We opted to sit at a low table on pillows atop tatami mats; we learned that a regular table would have been kinder to our knees. We each had a set meal that included salad, rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, tuna sashimi, and tempura (prawn and vegetables). John's meal included smoked eel, while I had traditional buckwheat noodles (soba) in a broth. We were the first lunch customers, but the place started to fill up while we were eating.

 

After lunch, we visited Oishi Park (https://en.kawaguchiko.net/park-en/oishi-park/) on the north shore of Lake Kawaguchiko, which features a promenade and flower garden along the lakefront. Theoretically, there are great views of Mt. Fuji with the lake and the flowers in the foreground; we did have slightly better views while enjoying the garden and a local specialty, blueberry soft-serve ice cream.

 

Our final stop was at Arakurayama Sengen Park (https://fujiyoshida.net/en/see-and-do/12), where you can climb 396 steps up Mt. Arakura to the five-storied Chureito Pagoda. There is an observation platform above the pagoda from which you can take a classic photo of Mt. Fuji with the red pagoda in the foreground. We climbed a little higher to reach a shrine to the Meiji Emperor, who promoted the Westernization of Japan. Higher still was another observation platform that overlooked an azalea garden.

 

We had hoped that our tour would also include a drive up Mt. Fuji to the Fuji Subaru Line 5th Station; that is the highest point on the mountain that can be reached by car. Unfortunately, a recent rock slide had closed the road.

 

Back at the hotel we intended to take a walk into the Ginza shopping district, but it was very windy and starting to rain, so we punted.

[cboyle]

Thursday, MAY 9—Tokyo, japan (Traditional Tokyo/East Side: Asakusa, Ueno)

 

After another hearty breakfast (great omelets as well as traditional Japanese fare), we took the subway to the Sensō-ji (https://www.senso-ji.jp/english/). This ancient Buddhist temple is Tokyo's oldest temple, and one of its most significant due to its auspicious location. Ki is an invisible force that pervades the universe and flows from northeast to southwest. Ki is neither good nor bad by nature, but picks up those characteristics as it flows. In an ideal city, there would be a temple located at the northeast corner to purify the ki flowing through the city. Sensō-ji served this purpose for Edo (now Tokyo), although it was later superseded by another temple that was situated even more to the northeast.

 

The temple is dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva (an enlightened person who defers Nirvana to help others achieve enlightenment) of mercy and compassion. In 628, two brothers were fishing in the nearby Sumida River and caught a statue in their net. They kept throwing the statue back and moving their boat, but they kept bringing up the statue. They took the statue to shore, where the village headman recognized the statue as an image of Kannon and built a small shrine to house it. The nearby Asakusa-jinja Shinto shrine honors these three men as deities.

 

When we reached the Kaminari-mon Gate (Thunder Gate), there was a long line of people waiting to have their photos taken in front of it. On either side of the gate are statues of Fujin (the god of wind) and Raijin (the god of thunder), who are guarding the temple from natural disasters. There is a large red lantern hanging in the middle of the gate and more guardians on the back side.

 

After passing through (or in our case around) this gate, we walked down Nakamise, one of the oldest shopping streets in Japan. This is actually three parallel streets, each lined on both sides by small stalls selling food and souvenirs. In fact, the entire area around the temple is a huge shopping district.

 

The shopping street ends at the Hozo-mon Gate. This gate is commonly called the Nio-mon Gate because of its two Nio statues, which guard and protect the temple from evil spirits and demons. When the gate was rebuilt in 1964, the models for its two Nio were 1960s sumo wrestlers. The enormous ōwaraji (rice straw sandals) hanging on the back side of the gate honor the sculptor of one of the Nio.  These giant sandals keep demons at bay and touching them is a charm for tireless endurance in walking.

 

To the right of the gate is a garden with several statues. These include two Bodhisattvas that date from 1687: Kannon (on the right) and Seishi, Bodhisattva of wisdom, strength, and power (on the left).

 

Farther to the right is Bentendo Hall, which houses a statue of Sarasvati (AKA Benten or Benzaiten in Japan), Hindu goddess of wealth, happiness, wisdom, and music. Next to the hall is a tower holding one of Edo’s six-hour bells. This huge bell is referenced in a haiku by the famous Japanese poet Matsuo Bashō: A cloud of flowers/Is that the bell from Ueno/Or Asakusa?

 

To the left of the gate is a 53 m (174 ft)-high, five-story pagoda, originally built-in 1648 and reconstructed in 1973. It is the second-highest pagoda in Japan and reportedly houses some of the Buddha’s ashes.

 

In front of the Main Hall, there is a huge incense burner. Rubbing smoke from the burner on a body part is said to relive aches. There is also an ablution fountain, topped with an intricate bronze dragon, where worshipers can purify their hands and mouth before approaching the temple.

 

Finally we reached the Main Hall (the Hondo or Kannon-do). The Kannon statue is stored in a zushi (miniature temple) with multiple locks; it is a "hidden Buddha" and is never displayed. Of course, the Main Hall is beautifully decorated, including paintings on the ceiling.

 

Next we visited the Asakusa-jinja, which is just to the right of the Main Hall and is much smaller and plainer.

 

There are more halls to the left of the Main Hall. Yogodo Hall enshrines eight Buddha statues. Each one protects one or two of the 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac and that Buddha also protects those born in the year of that animal. This hall has a beautiful little garden featuring Tokyo’s oldest stone bridge (made in 1618).

 

We also visited the Awashimado Hall, which honors three deities, before exiting the temple precincts by the East Gate. This is called the Niten-mon Gate ("the gate of the two Ten”) because of its two guardian deities, Zochoten and Jikokuten, on either side of the gate.

 

Next we walked over to Sumida River Park, which provides good views of the skyline on the east bank, including the Tokyo Skytree, the world's tallest tower. Alongside that is a tall golden building, the Asahi Beer Tower. The upper floors are white to make the building resemble a glass of beer (if you use rectangular-sided glasses). Next to that is the Asahi Beer Hall, which is supposed to resemble the Olympic cauldron. It is topped with the Asahi Flame, officially known as Flamme d’Or. Unfortunately, the locals don't think it looks like a golden flame; they call it the “Golden Turd” and the building “the Poo Building” (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/the-asahi-flame).

 

Now we were off again on the subway to Ueno Park (https://www.kensetsu.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/jimusho/toubuk/ueno/en_index.html). This park is next to the Tokyo University of the Arts and is full of museums. Being a park, there are also a number of fountains (not working), monuments to famous people, temples, shrines, and a zoo.

 

The Ueno Daibutsu is all that remains of a massive, bronze, 6 m-tall seated Buddha statue built in 1631. Over the years it suffered damage from earthquakes and fires and fell into disrepair. The head and torso were eventually melted down for munitions during World War II, but the face was preserved and is displayed at its former location. Nearby is a small temple to Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing and medicine.

 

We spent part of the afternoon visiting the Tokyo National Museum (https://www.tnm.jp/?lang=en, free for those 70+) and the National Museum of Western Art (https://www.nmwa.go.jp/en/, free for those 65+). The former is huge, with six buildings, but we concentrated on the Honiken (main building), which devotes its second floor to chronological "Highlights of Japanese Art." The latter has a small, but diverse, collection including some of our favorites: El Greco, Renoir, Monet, and Picasso.

 

The park is the former site of the extensive Toeizan Kan’eiji Temple complex (https://kaneiji.jp/pdf/english.pdf). This important temple was built in the northeast corner of Edo to overcome the geomantic deficiencies of Sensō-ji with regards to directing ki. It was devastated in the Battle of Ueno, between the imperial armies and shogunate forces resisting the Meiji Restoration of imperial rule.

 

After visiting the museums, we toured a number of buildings near the zoo that once were part of this temple complex. We walked down a path lined with stone lanterns, past a five-storied pagoda, to the Ueno Toshogu Shrine. This shrine was built in 1627 and is dedicated to the first Tokugawa Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu. It has a Chinese-style front gate that is covered in gold leaf. The shrine is also popular for its peony garden (Botan-en), but we were disappointed to find that it had closed for the season yesterday.

 

Next we climbed up to the Gojōten Shrine; it is situated on the side of a hill, with terraces sloping down towards Shinobazu Pond. This shrine dates from 1662. One of the three deities enshrined here was a great scholar, so he is worshiped by students hoping to pass exams.

 

The scenic Shinobazu Pond is actually a large lake composed of a duck pond, a boat pond, and the lotus pond. The Bentendo Temple sits on an island in the middle of the pond; it is dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of fortune.

 

Finally we visited the Kiyomizu Kannon-Do, another temple dedicated to the Bodhisattva of mercy and compassion. There is an interesting tree here that has been trained into a circle. From the terrace of the Kiyomizu Kannon-Do, the circle frames a view of the Bentendo Temple.

 

As we left the park, we passed the Tomb of the Shogitai Warriors, shogunate samurai who died in the Battle of Ueno. Nearby is the statue of Saigō Takamori, a famous samurai who supported the Restoration.

 

We returned to the hotel for a short nap. Later we took a walk through the Ginza shopping district. This is an area of high-end stores (think Gucci, Tiffany, Dior, Bvlgari, etc.) and many of the stores had guards at the door. People were lined up waiting to enter the Chanel boutique; only a few were admitted at a time.

[cboyle]

friday, MAY 10, 2024—Tokyo, japaN (Modern Tokyo/West Side: Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku)

 

This morning we took the subway to the Shibuya Station to view a few sights in that area. One popular attraction is the statue of Hachikō, an Akita pet dog; people were lined up to get a photo with the popular statue. Hachikō is famous because he would accompany his master to the train station every day and wait there until he returned in the evening after work. Unfortunately, his owner suffered a cerebral hemorrhage and died without returning to the station. However, Hachikō continued to wait at the station until his own demise nearly 10 years later.

 

Another nearby attraction is Shibuya Scramble Crossing, the main intersection of Shibuya and reputedly the busiest pedestrian intersection in the world. Every two minutes, all of the traffic lights turn red and thousands of pedestrians, surrounded by huge shopping complexes and giant video screens, cross from corner to corner and diagonally. The intersection is frequently featured in movies about Tokyo, such as "Lost in Translation." There was not a huge number of people at the time we crossed this morning.

 

Our cruise would be visiting both Hiroshima and Nagasaki, so we were interested in seeing the “Myth of Tomorrow” (1969), a huge mural displayed on the wall of an enclosed elevated walkway in the Shibuya Station. Considered one of Okamoto Tarō's greatest masterpieces, the mural portrays the detonation of an atomic bomb. Often compared with Picasso's "Guernica," the mural does not simply memorialize the tragic event. The artist's message is that human beings are capable of overcoming even the cruelest of tragedies and giving birth to ‘a myth of tomorrow’ (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/myth-of-tomorrow). The windows opposite the mural also provide an excellent view of the Shibuya Scramble Crossing from above.

 

From here, took the subway to the Omote-sandō Station. Omote-sandō is a wide avenue, lined with zelkova trees, that runs from the station to the Meiji-jingu Shrine. It is the main street of Harajuku. It is also a major shopping street, featuring high-end shops and interesting buildings (e.g., https://harakado.tokyu-plaza.com/en/).

 

Once we reached the JR Harajuku Station, we crossed the bridge over the train tracks and passed under the Main Gate (Minami Shinmon), the first of three torii leading to the Meiji-jingu Shrine (https://www.meijijingu.or.jp/en/). This torii is in the Myojin style, which is characterized by a curved upper lintel and a long tie beam.

 

This shrine in this large park honors the deified Meiji Emperor and his consort (the great-great-grandparents of the current Emperor). This is the Emperor who regained supreme rule of Japan in the 1868 Meiji Restoration and who promoted the modernization of Japan.

 

The path to the shrine runs through a large forested area. Farther along the path, we encountered racks of decorated straw-covered sake barrels. On the opposite side of the path are racks of barrels of wine from Burgundy and many come from the world's finest producers (such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti). Offerings of sake and wine are made to the shrine each year by sake and wine producers. The offerings are consecrated and offered daily to the kami (Shinto deities).

 

Next we visited the Meiji-Jingu Inner Garden (¥500 pp). This includes an iris garden, azalea garden, tea house, small paths, and ponds. We had hoped to see the irises in bloom, but we were too early and only a few had opened. The iris garden is in the shape of a stream and must be truly impressive when the flowers are in bloom. On the other hand, we were too late for the azaleas, although a few blossoms remained. The Inner Garden's ponds are fed by Kiyomasa’s well, said to have been dug by a famous feudal warlord of Edo times.

 

After exiting the garden we continued along the path to the Ootorii, the Great or Second Torii Gate. This torii is the largest wooden Myojin-style torii of its kind in Japan and has come to symbolize Meiji-Jingu for many because of its impressive size.

 

Just outside the Main Shrine is the Meoto Kusu or Camphor Tree Couple. These two trees were planted as saplings when Meiji-jingu was established in 1920, and have been growing here side by side ever since. Like the Married Couple Tree at Fujiyoshida's Sengen Shrine, they are joined by a sacred rope and are seen as a symbol of a happy, solid marriage.

 

Finally, we reached the Main Shrine (Honden), where the Imperial deities are enshrined. Many rituals are carried out daily inside the inner sanctum, including the offering of sacred food and prayers.

 

We exited the shrine precincts through the north gate and walked about 0.4 miles to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden (https://www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english/index.html, ¥250 for those 65+). This garden consists of several different areas. The traditional Japanese landscape garden features large ponds dotted with islands and bridges, together with several pavilions. There are also a formal French garden and an English landscape garden. The rest of the park consists of forested areas, lawns, and a beautiful greenhouse with many tropical and subtropical flowers. We especially enjoyed the rose garden and the greenhouse. The day we visited, the place was overrun by delightful, noisy, picnicking kindergartners.

 

Back at the hotel, we had a short nap to energize ourselves for an afternoon visit to the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo (https://www.momat.go.jp/en, free for those 65+). This museum features a chronological exhibit mainly of Japanese art after the Meiji period.

[cboyle]

SATURDAY, MAY 11, 2024—Tokyo to OSAKA, japan (Imperial Palace East Gardens)

 

Today was another warm, sunny, and windy day. The only site we planned to visit was the Imperial Palace East Gardens, which opened at 9 a.m. (https://www.kunaicho.go.jp/e-event/higashigyoen02.html). This turned out to be a highlight of our visit to Tokyo.

 

Tokyo Station is between the hotel and the gardens, so we passed through the station on the way there. That also gave us a chance to confirm the location of the Shinkansen platforms so we would know exactly where to go to catch our train later this afternoon.

 

The Imperial Palace East Gardens (Kōkyo Higashi Gyoen) were built on the grounds of Edo Castle, the residence of the Tokugawa Shoguns who ruled Japan from 1603 to 1867, before the Meiji Restoration. The remaining foundation of the former five-story castle tower is located on top of a hill, where the castle's innermost buildings once stood. None of the main buildings remain, but the moats, walls, entrance gates, and several guardhouses still exist.

 

Before the gardens were opened in 1968, this area was used for warehouses, workshops, a riding ground, and residences for members of the extended Imperial Family. Over the years, various original features of the castle grounds (such as orchards, forested areas, and flower gardens) have been restored. Today a wide lawn and a beautiful Japanese-style garden sit at the foot of the hill below the remains of the castle tower.

 

The Imperial Household Agency provides a free app (https://www.kunaicho.go.jp/e-event/app.html) to guide visitors through the gardens. This is quite well done and we used it to visit all of the 41 points of interest. We spent about two hours strolling the grounds.

 

As we were leaving the gardens, we decided to visit the Museum of the Imperial Collections, Sannomaru Shozokan (https://shozokan.nich.go.jp/en/, free for those 70+). This is a tiny museum with only two rooms. The current exhibition is "III. Artworks that Adorned the Early Modern Imperial Palaces." We particularly enjoyed the painted silk screens.

 

We had late checkout at the hotel, so we relaxed there until it was time to head over to Tokyo Station. John had followed the advice of The Man in Seat 61 (https://www.seat61.com/Japan.htm#How_to_buy_tickets) and bought our Shinkansen tickets ahead of time at https://www.baolau.com/en/. That gave us a QR code that we could scan at the fare gates instead of standing in line to exchange a voucher for tickets. It also allowed John to purchase reserved seats on the right-hand side of the Shinkansen to Shin-Osaka Station; that guaranteed we would have seats with the best chance to get a clear view of Mt. Fuji during the ride. Although it was hazy and there was not a lot of contrast between the mountain and the sky, we did get some good views at around 30 and 45 minutes into the trip. That helped to make up for the partial views we had on Wednesday. During the ride, John clocked the maximum velocity at 186 mph.

 

We would be spending the next two nights at the Courtyard Shin-Osaka Station (https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/osacy-courtyard-shin-osaka-station/overview/) using Marriott Bonvoy points. This hotel is located literally steps away from the Shin-Osaka train and subway station; just take the exit by McDonald’s and turn right. As at the Courtyard Tokyo Station, Platinum Elite and higher level Bonvoy members receive a bountiful buffet breakfast in the Lava Rock Restaurant, which includes made-to-order dishes (Eggs Benedict!) as well as local foods. Moreover, this Courtyard also has a dedicated Executive Lounge for elite members that features varying food and drink offerings throughout the day from 6:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tonight we went during the 5-7:30 p.m. “Evening Snacks” time, which included heavy appetizers such as cheese, cold cuts, spring rolls, and other hot items, plus canisters of dried fruit and nuts. During the 5-9:30 p.m. “Cocktail Hour,” there is a serve-yourself bar with alcoholic beverages including a nice Cava. Hard liquor included good brands like Chivas whisky.

[cboyle]

SUNDAY, MAY 12, 2024—OSAKA, japan (Day Trip to Kyoto, Japan)

 

Today started overcast, with rain forecast for the afternoon. We decided to take the chance that any significant rain would hold off until after we returned from Kyoto, so we didn't bother lugging the umbrellas along. We lucked out and our hats were sufficient to keep the water off our glasses.

 

John had bought tickets online for the Shinkansen to Kyoto so we would be sure not to be late for our guided tour. He did not bother to pay extra for reserved seats; the train was pretty empty on a Sunday morning. It is only a 15-minute ride on the express trains.

 

Once we arrived at Kyoto Station, we had to switch to the subway. Our digital Suica transit cards are good all over Japan, so we could use it for all the rides today. We got to the Kita-oji Station about 15 minutes early, but our guide, Akiko, was already waiting for us as we exited the fare gates.

 

With only one day to allot for Kyoto, John picked the "10 Must-see Spots in Kyoto One Day Private Tour" (https://www.viator.com/tours/Kyoto/The-10-must-see-spots-in-Kyoto-one-day-private-tour/d332-285124P1) with EE Tour. He had considered DIY touring, but the major tourist sites are spread out all over the city. This tour would use taxis as well as public transportation (all at extra cost), to get us around as expeditiously as possible. We could use the mobile Suica card to pay on the public transport, but needed cash for the taxis. Lunch and admission to the three Buddhist temples we visited was also extra; Shinto shrines have free entry. It was well worth the money to have a private guide to take care of navigating and logistics. And we hit the jackpot! Akiko was the real star of Kyoto and managed to show us ten of the highlights in a charming, entertaining, and enlightening style. She provided wonderful insights into what we were seeing and provided fantastic background information.

 

We first took a taxi to the Kinkaku-ji Temple (Sight #1), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Along the way Akiko pointed out where bonfires have left scars on the five mountains surrounding Kyoto. On each mountain, the fire is either in the shape of Kanji (Chinese characters), a boat, or a torii. These blazing symbols are meant to guide the souls of ancestors who returned to the mortal world during the Obon Festival (Festival of the Ancestors) back to the spirit world on the last day of the festival (August 16).

 

Kinkaku-ji (https://www.shokoku-ji.jp/en/kinkakuji/, ¥500 pp), or the Temple of the Golden Pavilion, is a complex of buildings and gardens built by the third Ashikaga Shogun Yoshimitsu (1358-1408) as a retirement villa. The complex was said to resemble the realm of the Pure Land. After Yoshimitsu’s death, the complex was turned into a Zen temple and given the official name Rokuon-ji.

 

The centerpiece of the complex is the temple’s Relics Hall, the three-story Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku). The shining pavilion extends over a pond that reflects the building. Here Yoshimitsu entertained prominent visitors, such as Emperor Gokomatsu. Akiko explained that the bottom floor was built in the style of an emperor’s residence, the second in the style of a shogun’s palace, and the top in the style of a temple main hall. Only the top two stories are covered in pure gold leaf; the bottom is covered in cypress wood. This emphasized that the Emperor ranked below the Shogun and the priests.

 

Akiko guided us through the gorgeously landscaped grounds with a pagoda, tea house, ponds, bridges, and monuments. In addition to the Main Hall, there are numerous temples dedicated to other deities.

 

Next we taxied to Saga Arashiyama another big sightseeing area. Our primary target was the Bamboo Forest (Sight #2), but first we passed the one and only shrine dedicated to the god of hairdressers, Fujiwara Unemenosuke Masayuki. He is venerated at the Mikami Shrine (https://mikami-jinjya-kyoto.com/) by barbers, beauticians, and anyone who is involved in the hairdressing industry or who has concerns about their hair. The amulets (omamori) sold at this shrine feature scissors, combs, and hair ornaments.

 

From here, we strolled through the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sagano-bamboo-forest), a grove of towering bamboo stalks. This is one of the most photographed sights in Kyoto and often appears in promotional material for the city. On a Sunday morning, the path through the grove was quite crowded. Akiko pointed out the various stages in the life cycle of a bamboo stalk and told us that the bamboo here grows an amazing foot a day.

 

We exited the bamboo grove to the north gate of Tenryu-ji Temple (Sight #3). Tenryu-ji Temple (https://www.tenryuji.com/en/, ¥500 pp) was built on the site of Japan's first Zen temple and is the foremost of Kyoto's five major Zen temples. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

This temple is especially noted for its outstanding pond garden, which was originally designed by one of the most famous landscape designers in Japan, Musō Soseki, a Rinzai Zen Buddhist monk and the  founding priest of Tenryu-ji in 1345. We relaxed by Soseki’s Zen garden behind the Large Hojo (Ceremonial Hall). Akiko had us try a minute of Zen meditation, which is usually practiced for an hour or more several times a day. Unfortunately, we are not very good at clearing our minds and not thinking about anything.

 

At the temple’s Hatto (Main Hall), Akiko showed us how to get a peek at the famous painting of a cloud dragon (Unryuzu) on the ceiling. The dragon is painted in happo-nirami style, so it appears to be watching you no matter where you are in the room.

 

In front of the Main Hall is the Hiun Kannon (Flying Kannon). Kannon is depicted with wings of air and floating on a cloud; she is also holding a globe topped with a cross. This statue was created by a Buddhist monk, Nishimura Kōchō, in the 1980s. Although the statue was requested by Japanese WWII air force veterans, the sculptor intended it to protect not only aviators but also those who travel by air, regardless of their religion or nationality.

 

After touring the temple precincts, we walked to the Oi (Katsura) River to view the Togetsukyo Bridge (Sight #4) or  “Crossing Moon Bridge.”  Looking west from this traditional wooden bridge, you get a beautiful view of the river and Mt. Arashiyama. There are  wooden Japanese-style boats in the river and moored at docks.  The bridge has often been used in historical films. 

 

We walked up Nagatsuji-dori Street, towards the Arashiyama Kimono Forest (Sight #5). On the way, we passed a small local shrine, the Oi-jinja Shrine (https://www.japanesewiki.com/Shinto/Oi-jinja%20Shrine%20(Kyoto%20City).html) hidden down a side street. The enshrined deity is Ukano-mitama (Ugamitama no kami), goddess of food and agriculture. We would never have discovered this shrine without Akiko.

 

The Kimono Forest (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/kimono-forest) is one of Kyoto’s most popular Instagram spots because of its picturesque 600 poles clad in acrylic-wrapped kimono fabric. The fabrics were traditionally dyed by the Kyo-Yūzen method unique to Kyoto, where the production of cloth for kimonos reached its zenith. Yūzen designs are very elaborate and include a lot of gold.

 

From the Tenryuji Temple/Randen Arashiyama Station, we first took a trolley to the Uzumasa Tenjingawa Station and then a subway to the Sanjo Keihan-mae Station. It was only a short walk from there to Ganko Sanjo Honten (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298564-d1171755-Reviews-Ganko_Sanjo_Honten-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture_Kinki.html). This is the main location of the Ganko restaurant chain, which serves traditional Japanese cuisine. We each had a fantastic lunch of 10 pieces of nigiri sushi (including shrimp, smoked eel, fatty tuna, salmon, yellowtail, scallops, and omelet (tamagoyaki)) and a bowl of miso soup. This soup was quite different from what we were used to (in a good way). Akiko told us it was akadashi  miso: the soup stock was made with chargrilled fish heads and bones.

 

After lunch, we took a taxi to Sight #6, the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, passing several other temples and shrines along the way.

 

The Kiyomizu-dera Temple (https://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp/en/, ¥500 pp) is yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is famous for the panoramic view from the vast terrace of the Main Hall, which was built on Mt. Otowa at the edge of a steep cliff. The balcony is supported by 18 pillars made from 400-year-old zelkova trees. These pillars are joined with a number of cross-beams, without using a single nail. This traditional wooden structure stands nearly 13 m (42.3 ft) high. In addition to the Main Hall, there are halls dedicated to the historical Buddha and the Amida Buddha. The latter contains an 18-foot-tall seated statue of Amida Buddha seated before a gorgeous halo that represents the world of Amida's Pure Land.

 

The principal image of the Main Hall is Kiyomizu, the statue of the Eleven-headed Thousand-armed Kannon Bodhisattva, which is enshrined in the innermost sanctum of the Main Hall. During the Edo period (1600–1868), it was believed that if you entrusted your life to Kannon and survived a leap from the terrace, your wishes would come true. A beautiful young woman making the jump with a parasol to break her fall is the subject of many paintings and woodblock prints. This practice is now banned, but Akiko told us that over 200 people had made the jump in the past and 85% had survived.

 

Akiko knows all the best spots to take photos of the colorful gates and halls in the complex and of the holy waterfall that springs from the mountain. We also had views of the  three-tiered Koyasu Pagoda on the opposite mountainside that promises a smooth delivery for expecting mothers.

 

Among the many small shrines is one dedicated to the black-skinned Daikokuten, the Buddhist deity of business and fortune, one of the seven lucky gods. He walks on two bales of rice and holds a mallet (signifying the virtue of work) and a big sack (signifying wisdom and patience).

 

Another shrine holds 200 small, stone sculptures of the Buddhist deity Jizo, the protector of miscarried or aborted fetuses, stillborn children, and children who die very young. Those children have not earned the merit needed to cross the Sanzu River into the afterlife; to earn enough merit to cross, they must pile stones by the river to build stupas. However, they must constantly start over, because the piles are knocked over by demons. Jizo guides the children to the afterlife by hiding them in his robes and telling them mantras. Grieving parents dress the statues of Jizo, usually with red bibs, as a way of thanking him for taking care of their children. 

 

As we exited the temple precincts, we walked along the south side of the Main Hall, where we could see the pillars and cross-beams that support it. Then we entered the Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka shopping districts (Sight #7). The streets here are lined with traditional wooden buildings that are now food and souvenir shops. Akiko encouraged us to try food samples at several of the shops. There are also many kimono rental shops. This area is very crowded and there was a tremendous number of tourists (both men and women) wearing kimonos. This area also contains Sight #8, the five-story Yasaka Pagoda (Hōkan-ji Temple), an iconic landmark of Kyoto.

 

From here, we walked through the Gion (Sight #9) entertainment and geisha district. Geiko (called geishas in Tokyo) are fully-trained entertainers and meiko are apprentices. Akiko pointed out the teahouses (ochaya) where geiko entertain, the exclusive traditional restaurants (ryōtei) where geiko attend banquets, and the houses (okiya) in which geiko and maiko live. Geiko and meiko have suffered such harassment from tourists trying to get selfies with them that some streets are now off-limits to outsiders. We did not encounter any actual geiko or meiko, only posters with pictures of them.

 

This area also has a number of interesting temples and shrines including the Yasui Kompira-gū Shrine (https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/yasui-kompiragu-shrine). The deities worshiped here are the poet warrior Minamoto no Yorimasa, the exiled Emperor Sutoku, and the serpentine water god Ōmononushi no Kami. However, it is not those deities that attract supplicants; it is the large power stone known as the enkiri/enmusubi (separate/marry) stone. This is a large rock with a hole in it that is entirely covered with slips of paper.

 

By performing a ritual, supplicants can break up or initiate not only human relationships but also end other harmful associations, such as bad habits or drug addiction. First the person pays their respects at the main shrine. Then they buy a paper charm (katashiro) and write down their wish. While holding the paper charm in their hand and reciting their wish, they crawl through the stone—either from front to back if they want a relationship (or to strengthen their present one) or from back to front if they want one to end. When they emerge on the other side, they bow and then crawl back through to the other side. Finally, they glue their charm to the stone. There was quite a long line of people wanting to perform this ritual.

 

As we wandered the back streets of Gioin, Akiko took us to Yuraku Inari Daimyojin, a small local shrine to Inari. Inari is an incredibly popular deity who has more shrines dedicated to them than any other kami in Japan; a third of all shrines in the country are Inari shrines. Inari is associated with foxes, rice, business prosperity, prosperity of industries, safety of households, safety in traffic, and improvement in the performing arts; they are worshiped particularly by merchants and tradesmen. Almost all Inari shrines, no matter how small, will feature a pair of guardian figures in the form of foxes (kitsune), usually flanking or on the altar or in front of the main sanctuary.

 

Finally, we took the subway from Gion-shijo Station to the Fushimi Inari Station. Sight #10 is the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine (https://inari.jp/en/), the head shrine dedicated to Inari. Of course, there are numerous fox statues, but Fushimi Inari Shrine is most famous for its many vermilion torii gates. Each torii bears the name of the person or organization that donated it, as well as the date that it was donated; the oldest gates there are said to be from the 8th century. Throughout the entire shrine precincts there are approximately 10,000 torii. About 800 of the torii form a 2.5 mile (4 km) long tunnel up Mt. Inari and back called the Senbon Torii. It takes about two hours to hike the whole trail, so we could only hike part of it today. It is surprising that this gorgeous and unique shrine is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

 

At the end of the tour, we were only expecting to have Akiko point out the direction to the nearest subway station. However, we were pleasantly surprised that she not only rode the subway with us to Kyoto Station, but also made sure we got on the correct train back to Shin-Okasa Station. We took a local train back to Okasa, which takes twice as long but costs half as much as the Shinkansen; it also is covered by the mobile Suica card.

 

Later in the evening, we packed up the mobile WiFi and deposited the package in the mailbox just outside the South Gate of the Shin-Osaka Station.

[cboyle]

MONDAY, MAY 13, 2024—OSAKA, JAPAN (Osaka Castle, Board Le Soléal)

 

This morning it was 59°F, windy, and rainy. Today was forecast to be much cooler than yesterday, with a high only around 62°F. The rain was supposed to taper off in the afternoon.

 

We had a lighter breakfast this morning so we would be able to eat dinner on the ship tonight. We relaxed in the hotel room, hoping the worst weather would pass so we could go out and see at least one sight in Osaka.

 

We finally decided the weather was not too bad, so we used the mobile Suica card to take the subway to Osaka Castle (https://www.osakacastle.net/). There was a modern building along the way that acted as a wind tunnel and destroyed my indestructible Repel umbrella. This had happened once before and the company made good on its lifetime guarantee. [Note: We received a new umbrella two days after reporting the damage.]

 

The castle was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the Imperial Regent (Kampaku), in 1583. Later it was occupied by Tokugawa Iyesau, the first Shogun of the third and last shogunate. Like many buildings in Japan, the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. After several rounds of destruction, it was reconstructed in 1997 out of ferro-concrete instead of wood.

 

We decided to visit the Castle Museum (¥600 pp) because it was less crowded today than usual due to the rain. There is a great view from the top (eighth) floor of the castle's parks and the city of Osaka. You can also see the golden Shachi—mythological creatures with the head of a dragon and the body of a carp—that were supposed to protect the building from fire. They did not work.

 

On the lower floors of the castle are a number of interesting exhibits about Hideyoshi's life and the battles he was involved in. There are painted silk screens with battle scenes and models showing the deployment of the forces.

 

On the castle grounds, there is a statue of Hideyoshi next to the Hokoku Shrine, dedicated to Hideyoshi and his family. There is also the Osaka Castle Nishinomaru Garden, which we visited (¥200 pp). Not much was in bloom right now, but there are several historic buildings and some great views of the castle.

 

Back at the hotel, we relaxed with some snacks and soft drinks in the Executive Lounge before using the mobile Suica card to take the subway to the Tempozan-Osaka Cruise Terminal; the trip takes about 45 minutes. It is short walk (1/3 mile) on level ground from the Osakako Station to the cruise terminal.

 

The terminal is adjacent to the Tempozan Harbor Village (https://www.kaiyukan.com/language/eng/), an amusement and shopping complex centered around the Osaka Aquarium. We considered a visit to the Aquarium, but decided we did not have enough time to appreciate it.

 

When we arrived at the terminal shortly before 3 p.m., there were already two other couples waiting to board. Six must be a magic number, because we had barely sat down before we were allowed to board. Our stateroom was ready, so we dropped off our hand luggage and headed to the Main Lounge for some celebratory Champagne to fête the start of our cruise.

 

That’s the pre-cruise! Stay tuned for our cruise reviews in the Ponant Le Soléal Cruiser Reviews section of Cruise Critic: https://www.cruisecritic.com/cruise/compagnie-du-ponant/le-soleal/reviews.

[ninjacat123]

Awesome review!! You have given such detail and perspective to your travels. Would you mind if I included a link to your review in my LIVE that is currently posted? Well done!

[cboyle]

6 hours ago, ninjacat123 said:

Awesome review!! You have given such detail and perspective to your travels. Would you mind if I included a link to your review in my LIVE that is currently posted? Well done!

Thank you for the compliments. 
 

I am following your LIVE and you are welcome to post a link there. 

[Hlitner]

Thanks for posting.  We enjoy reading about other DYers doing this kind of pre-post cruise journey.   Absolutely agree that having SUICA card is such an advantage when traveling around Japan.

 

Hank

[hdmiller]

Thank you for all your details!   We will be in Tokyo 3 days ahead of a 5 day land then 3 b2b2b cruises on Diamond Princess.   Planning on visiting many of the same spots!