Istanbul on your own trip report

[CoralReef]

Can anybody give me some clear directions from the port to the Spice Bazaar by foot.

 

I'll try :cool:

 

First of all, let me suggest that you print a map off Google Maps or similar, or else Xerox some maps from a good guidebook. Once you see the relative orientation of the landmarks, not only will the directions make more sense, but you'll see how impossible it is to get lost in old Istanbul.

 

1. Exit the port, turn left. Keep the Bosphorus on your left. You will probably be walking along the tram line (look for tracks running along the center of the street). Even if not, you will eventually run into water ahead of you. This is the Golden Horn.

 

2. Cross the Galata Bridge across the Golden Horn, on the tram line road. You can't miss it, it's the only bridge in the area. Plus, the Galata Tower is near the side of the bridge.

 

3. Turn right on the first major street. Keep the Golden Horn on your right.

 

4. The Spice Market is a short distance on your left. There are signs reading "Mısır Çarşısı" every so often. You can also ask any merchant or taxi driver-- we found them all to be very helpful. Best if you can point to the phrase in writing. Not everyone speaks much English, but they all read Roman letters.

 

How long a walk would it be? Thanks.

 

I'm going to say about 25 minutes for a fast walker, 45 minutes if slow. You'll want to pause on the bridge to take in the views.

[CoralReef]

has anyone visited other significant areas of Istanbul? How about St. Saviors/Chora church/museum (supposed to have the finest Byzantine mosaics anywhere), or to a synagogue (with or without a specific guide)?

 

Hi David,

I suggest starting a new thread about off-the-beaten-track Istanbul, and/or posting on the TripAdvisor Istanbul forum, where you will find knowledgeable people who've spent a lot of time in Istanbul. Most of us cruisers are lucky if we've been there long enough to see the "magic four".

[aussiecruzer]

CoralReef, thank you so much for your detailed instructions for the Spice Bazar. I shall do as you say and print off a map. I am so looking forward to experiencing Istanbul!!:) :)

[Pikachui]

Hi Susan

I was looking for info on travelling independently in Istanbul, and I just wanted to say how fab your post is. The time and effort you have put into it is so evident - thank you.

 

We will certainly be using the information you have included.

 

Many Thanks

 

Pikachui

[crazy4cruisn]

This makes me want to go back to Istanbul! Our son lived there for 2 years and visited 3 times. Our most magical moment was arriving very early in the morning. The sun was barely up and you could hear the prayer calls as we approached the dock. The mosques with their minarets were highlighted against the sky. Just marvelous!

The one place not mentioned here that we loved was the Dolmabahce Palace. The gorgeous crystal chandaliers with one the size of a VW Bug were amazing!

I want to go back!!

[cruzisme]

Thank you, CoralReef, for the wonderful info in your well written report! Very helpful to first timers to Istanbul.

We will either do the tram or hire a taxi to get us to the 'core' as we only have one day in this city. Thanks again!

[KLLund]

We spent two nights in Istanbul post a cruise and I was completely enchanted. I must second Hamdi Restaurant and especially if you are able to go at night .. it is magical.

We also spent one afternoon on the Taksim which is a street that does not allow traffic.. other than the tram and is very much populated by the locals with very colorful fruit, vegetable and fish displays as well as lovely coffee shops and even pubs. It was a delightful experience.

I said to DH .. we have to see everything because when will we ever get back here .. and of course 10 months later our cruise departed from there. Fortunately we had been there before because I was withough luggage and let me tell you trying to buy a rudimentary wardrobe at the grand bazaar was an experience .. there underwear is a bit different than ours.. LOL.

[drsb]

Coral Reef:

 

We are on the Galaxy doing the same itinerary you did. We plan on seeing the same sites you did on Saturday: Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern, Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar, have dinner then go to a hamam before heading back to the ship. How long did you spend at each place and what time did you eat dinner? Cemberlitas Hamam is open until midnight, I suspect Cagaloglu is as well, so I think I will have time. How late are the bazaars open, do you know?

 

Thanks for the great reviews, by the way!

 

Deb

[CoralReef]

How long did you spend at each place and what time did you eat dinner?

 

Our ship docked at 1 PM and we were among the first off. We saw all the sites you listed by about 6:00 or 6:15, when we stopped for dinner. I'm not sure how long we spent at each place, but well over an hour at the Haghia Sophia; slightly less at the other sites. We didn't spend much time at the Grand Bazaar, since we just wanted to get the flavor of the place and pick up a few trinkets. Also, we were afraid that if we went too far in, we couldn't find our way out!

 

We had to hustle to get from Hamdi restaurant to our 7:30 Sufi music show, but other than that, we went pretty leisurely, at our own pace. We headed back to the ship about 9:45-- would have liked to experience some of the Taksim Square nightlife, but were too tired and didn't want to miss Topkapi the next morning. I think you will be fine for time unless you were planning on serious shopping at the bazaars.

 

How late are the bazaars open, do you know?

I had read that they stay open until 7:30 M-Sat (closed Sunday).

[drsb]

Thanks so much! I feel more comfortable about my plans now.

[Sheepdog]

Just returned from the Navigator....yes, admission prices have doubled !!

Excellent directions previously given....for finding and using the tram from the port...cost 1 way..1.40 Turkish lira( about 70 cents ! ).I took Turkish Lira with me.( On that note,if you go to Ephesus, admission is paid by Turkish lira or credit card...they don't accept Euros.)

I did find that it seemed quite far between the Grand Bazaar and Galata Bridge....we got off the tram...and then back on to continue to the port.

Personally, I was not impressed with the Spice Market and wouldn't bother stopping there....Grand Bazaar was a lot of fun !!!

Enjoy..

Sharon

[Froogal]

Susan,

 

THANKS SO MUCH for taking the time to share with us excellent details of your Istanbul trip. Very timely for my forthcoming visit/rest stop on return flight. It's just what I was looking for. Now I feel pretty confident to explore Istanbul even without a map. I'm really excited to see this place judging from positive feedback on your report, and words from friends at work. Gotta print this now and convince DH that it's safe to go.

 

All the best,

Gie

[cruzisme]

Trying to decide how many YTL to get so this is what I have done:

for one person

Cistern 20 YTL

H. sofia 20 YTL

Top. Palace 20 YTL

Haren 20 YTL

 

Free for Blue Mosque an Hippodrone (sp?)

 

Tram one way 1.40 YTL

 

so, without snacks etc: one person 81.40 YTL to get into the Old City and do the major sights

Two people 162.80 YTL

so, if you don't plan to buy a lot, 200 YTL should buy a snack or two and a touch more? Is this reasonable?

[CoralReef]

Thanks, Gie and others, for the positive feedback. I'm glad this report is proving helpful for others, since I got so much good help on this site before my trip.

 

so, without snacks etc: one person 81.40 YTL to get into the Old City and do the major sights

Two people 162.80 YTL

so, if you don't plan to buy a lot, 200 YTL should buy a snack or two and a touch more? Is this reasonable?

 

Yes, I think so. I did read on several sites that the Cistern has not doubled its admission fee (and fairly so, in my opinion-- it was interesting but not as much as the Aya Sofya and Topkapi Palace!). So it may still be 10 YTL. I think your estimate is right on target.

[CintiPam]

The Cistern still is 10 YTL per person. (We were there the first week in September.) One of the most unusual sights that I ever have visited.

 

Have a great trip!

Pam

[cruzisme]

thanks to the wonderful help on this thread, yes, DH and I also rode the tram, did a taxi ride, and of course, enjoyed all the walking and the sights.

In our one day trip, we managed the Blue Mosque, H. Sofia, Topkapi Palace (not the kitchens), the Harem (wonderful), Cisterns (great too), lunch at a R. Steves' recommended restaurant, and a very short trip to the G. Bazaar (overwhelming)

 

It would be nicer to have additional time as we were really tired at the end of the day!

 

For the G. Bazaar, I would suggest doing this earlier in the day, not at the end.

 

The over zealous, pushy salesmen did bother me; I tried ignoring them but did not enjoy this aspect at all. I know some people find it fun, but I did not.

Overall, glad we visited Istanbul and yes, totally doable on your own. We did carry guide books with us, which helped!

[CintiPam]

cruzisme, thanks for posting back about your day. Istanbul was the highlight of our September Turkey/Greece cruise, and I would love to return someday.

[CathyCruises]

We, too, really enjoyed Istanbul when we were there a couple of weeks ago. We missed a lot of the sights when we decided to see about buying a rug--no such intentions when we left home, however! We learned all we could in advance and ended up buying three! Stayed away from the "ship recommend" stores--especially after checking the prices, which were 30-40% more than we paid, I guess for the ship's cut of the deal. Also, the "ship's store" didn't want to "ship" our purchase to us until after Christmas--apparently they wait until they have a big batch, then send them on a container at a much lower price.

 

In any event, we were very pleased with the store and service we got; and our rugs arrived Wednesday via DHL and look wonderful in our house! In listening to some folks on our ship who also bought, I think we got great deals--one lady bought a 3 x 5 for $950; we added one onto our purchase for $150!

 

So I guess we'll have to go back to see the sights we missed--and maybe pick up a few more rugs in the process!!

 

Cathy

[markgan]

Incredible! Your post is more helpful than any other article I found on the web.

I'm traveling next spring to Istanbul and for sure your tips will be part of my backpack!

[Froogal]

This feedback has been delayed due to work right after the visit and then got so preoccupied with the 25Nov08 Medi/Greek Isle cruise just recently on Brilliance of the Seas.

 

We were in Istanbul 1-3Nov08. Weather was soooo nice---upper 60s-70s, sun's out, comfortably breezy during the day; sometimes we took off our sweaters. On some mornings the other side of Marmara is covered with med-heavy fog, cleared out during the day.

 

We took the morning half-day "Senkron" tour (50 euros each) of Bhosporus with Golden Horn, including a short cable car ride from Pierre Loti; sailed under fair weather and clear blue skies up the strait from the European side through the Rumeli Fortress, then turned back around close to the Asian shore. This private tour gives you the chance to take photos of sights up close to the shore, not far off in the middle of the strait. They also have guides on the ferry. It wasn't chilly yet on the waters, but of course, prepare for your sweaters/jackets when out on the waters.

 

We felt safe walking around Istanbul. Turkish people speak English, harmless, and friendly (too friendly). If you want to max your time and see everything, don't let those well-dressed men take too much of your time into talking/selling you their hand-made carpets, esp if you're really not into buying one. The only unfriendly experience we had was at the Information desk, arrival area of Ataturk airport. The man (in his 50s) behind the desk wasn't helpful at all--useless. We got help instead from the transpo desk next to it, who took the initiative to call our hotel to find out if our shuttle is coming. In Sultanahmet, the tourist info staff are friendly. (We were advised to file a complaint to the governor about the airport man).

 

I should have stayed 4 days in Istanbul, instead of 3. Had we stayed one more day, we could have done the Prince's Island day trip, which we have to forego as we wanted to visit the Dolmabache Palace (in Taksim), which was closed on Mondays; Sunday was our last day. We got to the Dolmabache ticket booth outside the gate right before closing time. This was the only time we took the tram, as well as when we got extremely tired of walking and can't afford to miss the Grand Bazaar on our last day.

 

We stayed at Best Western Empire Palace on TripAdvisor (good experience for us; nice mattress beds in suites). Here's the hotel review I posted on TripAdvisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g293974-d446862-r22117870-Best_Western_Empire_Palace-Istanbul.html

The hotel is between Gulhane and Sirkeci metro/tram stops; and Sultanahmet and Eminonu districts. Because our hotel is central to major sites, we walked leisurely around. Nearby, I got 12 postcards for 1 YTL. Across the street from our hotel is the Orient Express Hotel. Everything is walkable; streets in Sultanahmet has directional signs to major sites so you won't be lost. We didn't get the chance to see the Spice Market because we felt so exhausted from walking a lot.

 

Entrance to the Cistern is 10 YTL; Aya Sofia-20; Topkapi-20; Dolmabache 15 YTL, plus 6 YTL per camera. The Palace allows cameras inside.

 

FX rate (1USD=1.50 YTL) was favourable giving us more buying power. Can't recommend any good restaurants as there were so many to choose from offering reasonable prices. I like their chocolates and missed trying their inexpensive sliced cakes (whew!). Streetvendors sell roasted corn on the cobs and chestnuts, which we enjoyed for a quick snack.

 

On our last night coming from the Grand Bazaar, we ate on the 2/F of a fast-food restaurant across the train station, near Sirkeci tram. We dawdled our time watching the sunset and panorama before us and testing our camera movie. Out through the open glass windows you hear the bustling rush hour activity on Kennedy Cadessi/Sirkeci intersection, and the coming and going of ferryboats/marine vessels until 7 pm. Just sitting there, feeling the cold sea breeze in your face, watching the traffic as the ferry lights disappear on the horizon is one experience to remember.

 

Istanbul is truly one of the safest and fascinating places to see, with the enchanting night lights of the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, and the Cistern around the Sultanahmet Square, and the bustling rush hour street activity around the Grand Bazaar and the ports.

 

Thanks to CoralReef and CintiPam who contributed their experiences to this Istanbul thread. Priceless!

[CintiPam]

Froogal, so glad to hear you enjoyed your stay in Istanbul. Thanks for posting your experiences and impressions. I agree that it is a very special city, and I look forward to returning one day.

[AussieKathy]

This is a great review on getting around Istanbul. Didn't want to see it get buried.

[CoralReef]

Thanks, AussieKathy :)

[cruzisme]

would love to go back to Istanbul!

but next time will stay closer to the pier and explore the newer Istanbul!

go up the funicular, perhaps.

just beware again: of how easy it is to wind up in a carpet store! beware the friendly men who approach you with: do you need some help with the map, etc. spiel!

 

have fun