Altitude Problems - Cusco - Machu Picchu

[cruiseph]

We took an OAT trip to Galapagos Islands and Machu Picchu in November of this year. Loved the trip, but I want to recommend medication for altitude sickness. The people that took this medication did much better acclimating to the altitude than those that did not. The tour reps said drinking enough fluids and the cocoa tea would be sufficient, but it was not.

[baggirl0609]

We took an OAT trip to Galapagos Islands and Machu Picchu in November of this year. Loved the trip, but I want to recommend medication for altitude sickness. The people that took this medication did much better acclimating to the altitude than those that did not. The tour reps said drinking enough fluids and the cocoa tea would be sufficient, but it was not.

 

Exactly what medication is recommended for altitude sickness? Is it over the counter?

[greatam]

Exactly what medication is recommended for altitude sickness? Is it over the counter?

 

It is Diamox, a sulfa drug. It makes you pee A LOT. It is prescription in the USA, over the counter in Lima (and about 1/3 the price). It cannot be taken by those that have diabetes or liver or kidney problems. It MAY help some, but more than anything, you need time and LOTS of coca tea.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetazolamide

 

AGAIN, I would venture to say this was another tour that arrived in Cusco about 10:00AM, took everyone to the hotel to "acclimate", then about 2:00 or 3:00, loaded everyone on a bus for sightseeing around Cusco. This is a MAJOR cause of altitude sickness-TOO MUCH to do immediately AFTER you arrive Cusco. 3 or 4 hours IS NOT enough time-your body will fight back and you get AMS.

 

As I have posted soooo many times, get to the Cusco airport, go IMMEDIATELY to the little stands in the back of the airport parking lot. Drink a couple of cups of coca tea BEFORE you go to your hotel. Buy a bag of coca leaves so you can either chew or make your own tea anytime you want. Then go to the hotel and REST. The MOST you should do the first afternoon is walk to the Plaza and sit around watching the goings on. One big reason I heavily recommend Norton's Rat Tavern. Right on the Plaza on the second floor. You have a total view of everything that is going on. And for the cost of food or beer, you can enjoy Cusco without strenuous activity or jumping on and off buses. Any extra walking or climbing ruins makes your body fight back hard.

 

IF you go on an organized tour, they ALWAYS get everyone in the bus the first afternoon and drag them on and off the bus seeing the Sun Temple and Sacsayhuamán (which is even higher than Cusco-almost 15,000 feet). I have RARELY seen a SMART tour that allows a complete day to acclimate. But I sure have seen a lot of people on organized tours SICK as a dog and NOT enjoying their trips. Another REALLY bad thing-some of the hotels (the Monasterio in particular which is the place the cruise ship excursions stay in) have piped in oxygen. So your body NEVER acclimates to the altitude and VERY thin air.

 

TAKE IT VERY EASY the first day and KEEP drinking coca tea. I have had a severe case of AMS-it is NOT pretty and can kill you if it gets bad enough. I now do what I posted above and KEEP drinking coca tea about every 2 hours for a couple of days. IF I feel the start of the headache which signals AMS, I drink MORE tea AND CHEW coca leaves. NO, they don't taste very good, but chewing them gets the active ingredient into your body very fast.

 

On the second day, take a bus trip to the Sacred Valley from Cusco (it is about 2500 ft lower than Cusco). By the night of the second day, most will generally feel fine and their third day in MP will go fine. But trying to cram everything in on a three day trip (arrive day 1, go to MP day 2, and leave day 3) is just about a guarantee that quite a few will get AMS. Enjoy!!!!

[marazul]

Greatam,

I assume you ask for "té de coca", if not, is there a better term in Spanish?

By the way cruiseph, cocoa is chocolate, coca is the leaf from which cocaine is distilled. However, coca tea is an analgesic, not a controlled substance. I think greatam's advise of doing nothing the first day is the key to AMS.

M

[greatam]

Greatam,

I assume you ask for "té de coca", if not, is there a better term in Spanish?

By the way cruiseph, cocoa is chocolate, coca is the leaf from which cocaine is distilled. However, coca tea is an analgesic, not a controlled substance. I think greatam's advise of doing nothing the first day is the key to AMS.

M

 

Mate de coca is the correct wording, although everyone in Cusco knows coca tea/coca leaves. Usual price $1.00 per cup, $2.00 for a good sized bag of leaves-just steep the leaves in hot water for about 10 minutes. Here is an interesting article about mate de coca.

 

PS: IT is ILLEGAL to bring coca leaves into the USA. DO NOT do it.

 

http://www.peruherbals.com/3030/coca.html

[baggirl0609]

Mate de coca is the correct wording, although everyone in Cusco knows coca tea/coca leaves. Usual price $1.00 per cup, $2.00 for a good sized bag of leaves-just steep the leaves in hot water for about 10 minutes. Here is an interesting article about mate de coca.

 

PS: IT is ILLEGAL to bring coca leaves into the USA. DO NOT do it.

 

http://www.peruherbals.com/3030/coca.html

 

I would like your opinion on my itinerary as to whether we should be acclimated to the altitude by the time we get to Machu Pichu. Machu Pichu is the place at which I am most anxious to not be affected by the altitude.

Day 1...Lima

Day 2...Arequipa( with private guide, so we can rest if we need to)7700'

Day 3 and 4...Colca Canyon( also with private guide)11,000'

Day 5...travel back to Lima to meet Princess Tour

Day 6...Cusco( with Princess tour)11,500'

Day 7...Machu Pichu 9,000'

Day 8...Back to Lima through Cusco

Would being in high altitudes in Arequipa and Colca Canyon prepare our bodies for the altitude if we come back to Lima in the middle of the trip?

I am allergic to Sulfa drugs so will not be able to take any of the suggested medication.

Thanks for your help!!!!

[greatam]

I would like your opinion on my itinerary as to whether we should be acclimated to the altitude by the time we get to Machu Pichu. Machu Pichu is the place at which I am most anxious to not be affected by the altitude.

Day 1...Lima

Day 2...Arequipa( with private guide, so we can rest if we need to)7700'

Day 3 and 4...Colca Canyon( also with private guide)11,000'

Day 5...travel back to Lima to meet Princess Tour

Day 6...Cusco( with Princess tour)11,500'

Day 7...Machu Pichu 9,000'

Day 8...Back to Lima through Cusco

Would being in high altitudes in Arequipa and Colca Canyon prepare our bodies for the altitude if we come back to Lima in the middle of the trip?

I am allergic to Sulfa drugs so will not be able to take any of the suggested medication.

Thanks for your help!!!!

 

JMHO, but that is a horrible schedule. Colca Canyon is a lot of climbing, walking at altitude. Good possibility of AMS. You also have more touristy/backpacker type hotels in the Arequipa area-do you realize a lot of hotels DO NOT have central heat? There is really not much worse experience than to be cold and suffering from AMS. You can't get warm and you can't breathe. The normal "fix" in Peru is to pile on more heavy alpaca blankets, which makes breathing MORE difficult. OR rent (yes, rent for $5.00 per night) one of those stupid little radiator heaters like they sell at Walmart. They DON'T warm up the room, just the adjacent space.

 

And WHY would you go back to Cusco just to join a Princess tour, which is too short and lacking a lot (and most likely costs a LOT)? When you are in Arequipa, you are not far (6 hours by bus, an hour by plane) to Lake Titicaca and the absolutely SPECTACULAR train ride from Lake Titicaca to Cusco (or reverse).

 

If this was my trip, I would do it this way (but I also don't know whether you are flying back to the USA AFTER this week or whether you are joining a cruise). But this would most likely get you the BEST chance to acclimate AND see what you want.

 

Day 1-fly EARLY to Cusco-rest/relax (OR go to the Sacred Valley the first day)

Day 2-You could do this one of two ways-Either do a day trip to the Sacred Valley (this would be my choice, as I think you miss A LOT if you take the bus out of Cusco and board the train in Ollay INSTEAD of taking the train out of Cusco). Or actually go to the Sacred Valley on day 2 (if you didn't go the first day) and then spend the night and take the train out of Ollay (you REALLY miss some spectacular scenery getting on the train in Ollay AND you miss the zig zag out of Cusco)

Day 3-MP-back to Cusco and sightsee what you missed

Day 4-train to Puno-SPECTACULAR train ride-spend the night on the shores of Lake Titicaca

Day 5-you can either go to the floating islands, go to Sun Island or even spend the night in a catamaran in the middle of Lake Titicaca.

Day 6-fly Juliaca to Arequipa-look around Arequippa (there really isn't much to see)

Day 7-go to Colca Canyon to see the Condors. You could spend the night in Chivay OR just go for the day trip.

Day 8-return to Lima-you can see the most important things in Lima in one short day. Arrive early from Arequippa (first flight arrives LIM at 7:30AM).

 

If my suggestion doesn't work or you need further info, please post. You are spending A LOT of extra time and money going back to Lima. We can vary your tour if you have no interest in Lake Titicaca (although the train ride REALLY is SPECTACULAR-one of the highest in the world-the train has oxygen). But if you don't want to spend the days in Puno/Lake Titicaca, you can get on a plane in Juliaca (Puno) and fly directly to Arequipa.

 

ALL of this is bookable YOURSELF. How many times do I have to post-YOU DON'T need a guided tour. A local tour guide can get you to Colca Canyon, there are a wealth of tour guides to the Uros Islands, Sun Island. The BEST day trips to the Sacred Valley are booked IN CUSCO from the travel agency on the north side of the plaza upstairs from the Inka Grill (one of these days I WILL remember the agency name). The train is bookable online for both MP and Puno. And DON'T take the Hiram Bingham train. WAY too much money for dinner (about all you get over the deluxe train). PLUS you miss the zig zag out of Cusco, you miss the stop with all the ladies selling stuff (it is before you board the HB train).

 

I have done these trips backpacker style to luxury and everything in between Tour guides do what is EASIEST (and the most money) for them. IF you plan your own trip, the experience will be FAR superior.

[baggirl0609]

JMHO, but that is a horrible schedule. Colca Canyon is a lot of climbing, walking at altitude. Good possibility of AMS. You also have more touristy/backpacker type hotels in the Arequipa area-do you realize a lot of hotels DO NOT have central heat? There is really not much worse experience than to be cold and suffering from AMS. You can't get warm and you can't breathe. The normal "fix" in Peru is to pile on more heavy alpaca blankets, which makes breathing MORE difficult. OR rent (yes, rent for $5.00 per night) one of those stupid little radiator heaters like they sell at Walmart. They DON'T warm up the room, just the adjacent space.

 

And WHY would you go back to Cusco just to join a Princess tour, which is too short and lacking a lot (and most likely costs a LOT)? When you are in Arequipa, you are not far (6 hours by bus, an hour by plane) to Lake Titicaca and the absolutely SPECTACULAR train ride from Lake Titicaca to Cusco (or reverse).

 

If this was my trip, I would do it this way (but I also don't know whether you are flying back to the USA AFTER this week or whether you are joining a cruise). But this would most likely get you the BEST chance to acclimate AND see what you want.

 

Day 1-fly EARLY to Cusco-rest/relax (OR go to the Sacred Valley the first day)

Day 2-You could do this one of two ways-Either do a day trip to the Sacred Valley (this would be my choice, as I think you miss A LOT if you take the bus out of Cusco and board the train in Ollay INSTEAD of taking the train out of Cusco). Or actually go to the Sacred Valley on day 2 (if you didn't go the first day) and then spend the night and take the train out of Ollay (you REALLY miss some spectacular scenery getting on the train in Ollay AND you miss the zig zag out of Cusco)

Day 3-MP-back to Cusco and sightsee what you missed

Day 4-train to Puno-SPECTACULAR train ride-spend the night on the shores of Lake Titicaca

Day 5-you can either go to the floating islands, go to Sun Island or even spend the night in a catamaran in the middle of Lake Titicaca.

Day 6-fly Juliaca to Arequipa-look around Arequippa (there really isn't much to see)

Day 7-go to Colca Canyon to see the Condors. You could spend the night in Chivay OR just go for the day trip.

Day 8-return to Lima-you can see the most important things in Lima in one short day. Arrive early from Arequippa (first flight arrives LIM at 7:30AM).

 

If my suggestion doesn't work or you need further info, please post. You are spending A LOT of extra time and money going back to Lima. We can vary your tour if you have no interest in Lake Titicaca (although the train ride REALLY is SPECTACULAR-one of the highest in the world-the train has oxygen). But if you don't want to spend the days in Puno/Lake Titicaca, you can get on a plane in Juliaca (Puno) and fly directly to Arequipa.

 

ALL of this is bookable YOURSELF. How many times do I have to post-YOU DON'T need a guided tour. A local tour guide can get you to Colca Canyon, there are a wealth of tour guides to the Uros Islands, Sun Island. The BEST day trips to the Sacred Valley are booked IN CUSCO from the travel agency on the north side of the plaza upstairs from the Inka Grill (one of these days I WILL remember the agency name). The train is bookable online for both MP and Puno. And DON'T take the Hiram Bingham train. WAY too much money for dinner (about all you get over the deluxe train). PLUS you miss the zig zag out of Cusco, you miss the stop with all the ladies selling stuff (it is before you board the HB train).

 

I have done these trips backpacker style to luxury and everything in between Tour guides do what is EASIEST (and the most money) for them. IF you plan your own trip, the experience will be FAR superior.

 

Dear Greatam,

Thanks for your input.

The first few days, as I said,we are on our own with a private guide that we booked through our TA in NY.

After that, the Cusco and MP portion are through Princess and then we take the Star Princess cruise from Valparaiso on Jan.5 to BA.

We are 2 single women and liked the idea of meeting a group of people in advance that would be on the ship with us. We also liked having all of the arrangements made in advance.

With that in mind, what might you suggest so that we could still go with the Princess group for the pre cruise to Cusco and MP?

We arrive into Lima on Dec. 28.

After the cruise we spend a few days in BA and then fly to Iguazzu Falls ( again with a private guide) for 2 or 3 days and then return to the US from BA.

My biggest question was about altitude sickness in MP which you didn't really answer.

Thanks for all of your help.

Baggirl0609

[greatam]

Dear Greatam,

Thanks for your input.

The first few days, as I said,we are on our own with a private guide that we booked through our TA in NY.

After that, the Cusco and MP portion are through Princess and then we take the Star Princess cruise from Valparaiso on Jan.5 to BA.

We are 2 single women and liked the idea of meeting a group of people in advance that would be on the ship with us. We also liked having all of the arrangements made in advance.

With that in mind, what might you suggest so that we could still go with the Princess group for the pre cruise to Cusco and MP?

We arrive into Lima on Dec. 28.

After the cruise we spend a few days in BA and then fly to Iguazzu Falls ( again with a private guide) for 2 or 3 days and then return to the US from BA.

My biggest question was about altitude sickness in MP which you didn't really answer.

Thanks for all of your help.

Baggirl0609

 

It's not just MP you have to worry about AMS. Colca Canyon is very high and you do a lot of walking and climbing. So if you get AMS there, you will be more prone to AMS in Cusco. ONCE you get AMS, the possibility of getting it again is VERY real. And if you get AMS in Colca Canyon, you will probably still have symptoms going back to Lima and THEN IMMEDIATELY going back to altitude. It takes a couple of days to get over AMS. You will be more prone to it unless you ski frequently. NYC is not far above sea level and your lungs are not used to very thin air.

 

If you really want to meet up with the people from the ship, the do my proposed trip in reverse. Fly from Lima to Arequipa, go to Colca Canyon, then you can either fly to Juliaca for Lake Titicaca (12,000 feet) or forget spending any time in Lake Titicaca and take the train to Cusco. You can also fly to Cusco from Arequipa. Meet your group in Cusco. You really are wasting a lot of time flying back and forth to Lima just to meet up with your group. And ALL arrangements can be made IN ADVANCE-no need to book anything in Cusco, except I still stick by my post that the BEST day trip to the Sacred Valley is booked in Cusco. You do realize that you will miss the Sacred Valley with your proposed plans. The market in Pisac is NOT to be missed, as well as the countryside. AND the Princess tour is one of those push, push, rush, rush trips where lots of people get AMS.

 

Have your TA get in touch with me. I will try to point her in the right direction so she can give you what you want, but avoid AMS problems, which can be VERY real with your overly agressive, up to altitude, down to sea level plans. I think it is a disaster in the making. And ESPECIALLY if the Princess tour stays at the Monasterio.

 

greatam.az@gmail.com

 

PS: I am a woman who travels by myself all the time in Peru and Chile (business).

[baggirl0609]

It's not just MP you have to worry about AMS. Colca Canyon is very high and you do a lot of walking and climbing. So if you get AMS there, you will be more prone to AMS in Cusco. ONCE you get AMS, the possibility of getting it again is VERY real. And if you get AMS in Colca Canyon, you will probably still have symptoms going back to Lima and THEN IMMEDIATELY going back to altitude. It takes a couple of days to get over AMS. You will be more prone to it unless you ski frequently. NYC is not far above sea level and your lungs are not used to very thin air.

 

If you really want to meet up with the people from the ship, the do my proposed trip in reverse. Fly from Lima to Arequipa, go to Colca Canyon, then you can either fly to Juliaca for Lake Titicaca (12,000 feet) or forget spending any time in Lake Titicaca and take the train to Cusco. You can also fly to Cusco from Arequipa. Meet your group in Cusco. You really are wasting a lot of time flying back and forth to Lima just to meet up with your group. And ALL arrangements can be made IN ADVANCE-no need to book anything in Cusco, except I still stick by my post that the BEST day trip to the Sacred Valley is booked in Cusco. You do realize that you will miss the Sacred Valley with your proposed plans. The market in Pisac is NOT to be missed, as well as the countryside. AND the Princess tour is one of those push, push, rush, rush trips where lots of people get AMS.

 

Have your TA get in touch with me. I will try to point her in the right direction so she can give you what you want, but avoid AMS problems, which can be VERY real with your overly agressive, up to altitude, down to sea level plans. I think it is a disaster in the making. And ESPECIALLY if the Princess tour stays at the Monasterio.

 

greatam.az@gmail.com

 

PS: I am a woman who travels by myself all the time in Peru and Chile (business).

 

Greatam, Thanks so much for your advice.

I have put a call into my TA and she is going to contact her person in SA with whom she works.

It may be too late to change our itinerary due to the fact that flights have already been booked. Also, the Princess pre cruise may already be booked. I do appreciate your suggestions. I agree that it does not make sense to go back to Lima just to meet the Princess group.

I will see if it can be worked out without it costing me additional money.

How do you have such great knowledge about this part of the world?

Do you live there? Are you a TA?

Would it be OK if I contact you directly rather than doing all this on this site?

[greatam]

Greatam, Thanks so much for your advice.

I have put a call into my TA and she is going to contact her person in SA with whom she works.

It may be too late to change our itinerary due to the fact that flights have already been booked. Also, the Princess pre cruise may already be booked. I do appreciate your suggestions. I agree that it does not make sense to go back to Lima just to meet the Princess group.

I will see if it can be worked out without it costing me additional money.

How do you have such great knowledge about this part of the world?

Do you live there? Are you a TA?

Would it be OK if I contact you directly rather than doing all this on this site?

 

I own an international logistics company. We ship Thompson seedless grapes, fruit and wine out of Chile, Peru and Argentina. I personally go down there 4 times per year during growing season to make sure everything goes smoothly. I also have an import business and I import native crafts and alpaca sweaters from Peru, Ecuador and Columbia.

 

You may contact me.

[Tony UK]

We are considering a tour from Arica which is by coach and goes to 14000 feet at the highest point. We will be returning to sea level same day. Do we need to have any worries about altitude sickness. Any precautions we need to take. I'd appreciate any advice you can offer.

[greatam]

We are considering a tour from Arica which is by coach and goes to 14000 feet at the highest point. We will be returning to sea level same day. Do we need to have any worries about altitude sickness. Any precautions we need to take. I'd appreciate any advice you can offer.

 

ANY time you go over about 8000 feet and do ANY kind of activity (walking a lot, hiking, climbing ruins, etc) you could be subject to AMS. A lot depends on your body-physical fitness, where you live (sea level or Colorado at 5000 feet), whether you ski or hike at elevations over 8000 feet frequently, etc. etc.

 

If you are just riding on the bus to the altiplano, you should be OK. If you have to get out and walk around a lot, breathing the VERY thin air, you could get AMS.

[Tony UK]

Thanks so much for your very helpful reply. We aren't climbers or anything but would love the opportunity to see the altiplano. Its a once in a lifetime opportunity.

[Tony UK]

Browser slow - duplicate post - sorry!

[Tony UK]

duplicate post!