notamermaid

As it is cold it has been snowing in Bavaria (of course), it is just a bit statistically unusual to have snow as low as 400m in altitude on 20 April. Still, it can happen at the beginning of May. Snow cover in the Bavarian Forest: https://www.br.de/nachrichten/bayern/weitere-schneefaelle-im-hoeheren-bayerischen-wald,UAU77ww The report mentions Freyung. That is here, only 40km from Passau: It is the temperature that means when docked in Vilshofen or Passau or Linz, you will have rain but could potentially have sleet on the roads when taking excursions into the hills. Weather report says that snow is possible in Salzburg. notamermaid notamermaid

The poem that saved a mountain The Drachenfels is a mountain at Königswinter and part of the Seven Mountains range, the Siebengebirge. There are actually over 50 mountains and hill formations in the range. Curiously, I could only find two that have the word -ley or -lay in it. That is different from rock faces further upstream that are often called Lay. So Lay is an older word, the term that is only used in modern High German is Fels. The Drachenfels has the dragon legend attached to it but the name is probably derived from the stone that the Drachenfels is made of - Trachyte. This volcanic rock is perfect building material which can be sculptured well. The Romans used it and famously Bonn Minster and Cologne Cathedral are made from the stone quarried in the area, the latter being to a large extent made out of the Drachenfels itself. When Lord Byron looked at the mountain he saw the ruin of the castle and on another part of it stone was still quarried. It is believed that part of the castle ruin further disappeared due to the quarry. Rock is known to have come loose and having caused land slides. Tourists had come to the area before Byron but his poem was an instant hit in Britain and drew the crowds to the Drachenfels. First it was the painter William Turner, then other writers followed. The "conventional" tourists flocked to the Rhine valley from the 1820's, especially when the first steamers made travel easier and faster. The Drachenfels was in danger of disappearing from the landscape if large-scale quarrying had continued. Disputes between the locals who wished to preserve the sight and the quarry owners already started in the 1820's and continued until the Prussian king himself stepped in and bought the "mountain" and gave it protected status. The mountain made famous by Byron's poem was saved. Mining in other parts of the Seven Mountains range continued until 1930 when all of it became protected. notamermaid

On May 11, 1816, Byron and Polidori (the latter wrote a diary with dates and descriptions of places) passed the Drachenfels mountain but curiously did not actually visit it. They travelled upstream on the left bank of the Rhine so went from Bonn to Remagen and then Andernach. "The castled crag of Drachenfels" is in the third canto of the epic poem "Childe Harold" and I have quoted only the first verse. At Rhine kilometre 644.1 (left bank) you are supposed to have a great view of the Drachenfels. The Drachenfels is to the Lower Middle Rhine valley a bit what the Lorelei is to the Upper Middle Rhine valley. Heinrich Heine (yup, him of the Lorelei poem) went to the Drachenfels in 1820 and - what else - wrote a poem about it. notamermaid

Lady Caroline, herself not quite an innocent woman, called him "mad, bad and dangerous to know". John Polidori by the way started the genre of vampire stories during that meeting in Switzerland. notamermaid

Ouiii, happy surprise. I did not expect the Wall Street Journal of all publications to remember Byron on this day. And I fully admit that I had not thought of Byron had I not read an article in an online publication on Byron a couple of days ago. notamermaid

Although a baron, Byron is usually more referred to as Lord Byron, having been in the House of Lords. Ada Lovelace was his daughter and a brilliant mathematician. Wish I had the brain cells she had for that field of research. She is credited with being the first computer program writer. If you are interested look up the "Difference Engine" by the inventor Charles Babbage. Father and daughter sadly parted ways early in her life due to unhappy circumstances with society and her father's conduct. When Byron left Britain he travelled through Europe and ended up in Greece. There he took part in the Greek War of Independence. He died at the age of 36. Who knows what he may have achieved and written had he lived on. He was a husband, a father, a dandy, a writer, a revolutionist, invented mass tourism on the Rhine (only slight exaggeration) and posthumously saved a mountain from destruction. The other references: Mary Godwin, later Shelley, wrote Frankenstein after a leisurely evening together with Percy Bysshe Shelley and John Polidori in Switzerland, where they had gathered together. It was the "Year without Summer" and the mood was a bit down, with all that rain and the weird colours in the sky. Those were the inspiration for William Turner's paintings a year later, but that is another story. Byron and Polidori had travelled along the Rhine, as one did in those days as a gentleman, to get to Italy mainly. After Napoleon's defeat the Rhine valley was open for travel again and so regained interest. Yes, it was the Romantic period in literature and Byron described the Rhine valley in dramatic words. I will explain more about the clue of the mountain saved by a poem in another post, but here is said poem about said mountain, the Drachenfels, part of the Seven Mountains range: The castled crag of Drachenfels Frowns o’er the wide and winding Rhine, Whose breast of waters broadly swells Between the banks that bear the vine, And hills all rich with blossom’d trees, And fields which promise corn and wine, And scatter’d cities crowning these, Whose far white walls along them shine, Have strew’d a scene, which I should see With double joy wert thou with me. notamermaid

"The poem that saved a mountain" is the last clue which you do not need anymore really... You are right @Canal archive Lord Byron it is! The poet died 200 years ago today, far away from home in Greece. A few explanations to follow. notamermaid

It is a bit unusual even for April to jump so much in weather conditions. Still, the month is notorious for being unstable. "April, April, der macht was er will." is the saying, "April, April, it does want it wants to do". [at a whim] I put my winter jacket back on this morning and went shopping in driving rain. We have temperatures that are a little bit higher than in Bavaria right now, not a lot and the wind makes it feel really cold and unpleasant. notamermaid

Third clue: Ada the mathematician. notamermaid

Those projected images look amazing, albeit a strain on the senses potentially. You may actually find the Turner and Constable ones to be more approachable, i.e. you can get quite close, compared to the other paintings in the gallery. When I was in London - in winter, mind you - I found enough space at my Turner favourites to enjoy them. People crowd around Monet, etc. notamermaid

Second clue: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankenstein#/media/File:Frankenstein_1818_edition_title_page.jpg notamermaid

Another short quiz just for fun. Looking for a man and his anniversary. Related to the Rhine of course. Revealing the solution tomorrow afternoon or evening (my local time). Clue one: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_of_Lords#/media/Datei:House_of_Lords_Chamber.png notamermaid

To the present day. We have had some rain so the level at Kaub is rising again. Going into next week we will likely see figures close to 300cm. A good level. With temperatures rising again and drier weather the level will return close to the long-term mean a few days after that. notamermaid

To the present day. With the change in weather we have had snow return even to Rhineland-Palatinate. In Bavaria snow is still falling above 500m altitude. The temperatures will rise again soon. The rain has made Pfelling gauge rise to 411cm. That is a good buffer for spring days without rain. notamermaid

Hmm, looking at the list of ports in the thread "Beyond the standard ports" I notice Neuwied again. They are still no further with their plans from what I have heard as there are legal hurdles I did not know about. Those have been explained to me recently by a local. The details had not made it into the newspapers. So back to the statistics. Autumn is the most likely time to have low water on the Rhine, but it can happen from July onwards. For commercial traffic low water is declared when the level on Kaub gauge reaches 150cm. You may see articles in business papers reporting on it. That has no impact on sailing for river cruise ships as regards draft, which means other than perhaps going a bit more slowly and carefully and having the odd difficulty at a low landing stage things will be fine. Kaub gauge goes down further basically every year, sometimes a lot. I do not want to go into details but just in case someone says to you "I went on a river cruise in 2018, it was awful" I would like to explain this most abysmal year for river cruising (whoever says to you "awful" is right). 2018 has been the worst year ever in river cruising and commercial traffic had an awful year, too. Apart from the curiosity factor (no consolation) the year was bad for locals, too. We had the driest and hottest weather for a long, long time and in that autumn Kaub got a new historical record for low water. River cruising came almost to a standstill. No ship of 110m(!) length made it through the Rhine Gorge for days and the 135m ships, well, I do not remember details, but they did not sail for some time. No chance. The river being so low the shallow section extended further than Mainz. This is the year at Kaub, the second half of 2018 the figures were in double digits only for a long time: Just to explain again, these figures are the gauge, a marker at the side of the river. To get the depth of the navigation channel, captains "translate" this into the real figures. The record was declared by the authorities on 22 October 2018 to be 25cm. notamermaid

That's right, just ignore advice! Seriously, most of the time things go well and the comfort of the ships and the delight of seeing the Rhine Gorge is worth the risk. An adventure that will most likely be an amazing trip without interruption, especially as you are going in July. I hardly ever spotted the Crystal ships on the river so I guess it will not look too weird to see the ex-Crystal Bach on my river with her slightly changed livery. Luxury in store for you in July. If anyone is interested in the takeover: https://www.travelweekly.com/River-Cruising/Uniworld-charter-two-former-Crystal-river-ships The stop in Karlsruhe is unusual on your itinerary, one of those places I called "beyond the standard": https://boards.cruisecritic.com/topic/2516698-rhine-beyond-the-standard-ports/ notamermaid

Pontac, you posted several wines of differing origin that you had with your meals. Were they part of your drinks package or the standard fare? Were you happy with them either way? notamermaid

To the length of the problem on the Rhine. The shallowest section is around Kaub so that there is in effect only a stretch of about 30km that needs bridging in a coach and with a ship swap. That is in the Rhine Gorge. But the nature of the river and it logistics makes it difficult just to do 30km. So you can use a landing stage at Rüdesheim and at Braubach or Lahnstein, which extends the process to something like 45km. You can look up the exact distances by looking at the Rhine kilometres. With so many ships needing docking locations that scenario will only work for a few ships at any one time. Next solution is Mainz to Koblenz when Rüdesheim is full or too shallow. The shallow part extends upstream first, then downstream. So most of the time Rüdesheim, Speyer, Mainz, etc. and then at the other end Koblenz will be your ports of call. It gets more complicated to organize with longer distances, so depending on excursion and company, the ship swap is not just 90 minutes by coach (the driving time through the Gorge) but up to six hours or a real day trip. How long can the situation last? The river being too shallow can be a time frame of 12 hours to one week (and more, like in 2018). It happens every year for commercial shipping, that means barges and tankers adjust their load. The impact on river cruising differs every year, there have been a few years when the level was good enough for all ships to sail through the Rhine Gorge. River cruise ships with a length of 105m or less can almost always sail without problems. notamermaid

To the OP. You will be on the Rhine but you have not actually stated from where to where I think, i.e. your itinerary with Avalon. I assume you will be sailing through the Rhine Gorge at one end of which Rüdesheim is situated. All in all I would say most cruisers that have reported back were happy with the excursions they took. Specifically as regards the option of either going into the Black Forest or going to Alsace (that is Colmar, etc.) I would say the Alsace one is coming across as being better/more enjoyable. In case you need to make choice. Of course, it will also depend on where your interests lie. notamermaid

@pontac You are perfectly right about my perspective. But added to that is my inclination to steer away from wine towns as such when they are crowded. For me Rüdesheim is just a small town with two streets to look at. I prefer the slightly less crowded Bernkastel-Kues and Eltville and Bacharach, etc. Just a different vibe. For view, the Niederwalddenkmal above Rüdesheim is great, I enjoyed it many years ago. notamermaid

Have had the problem with coffee in England in recent years. Me "I would like a coffee, please". Attendant "Americano?" Etc, etc. Me: " A normal coffee, please." (with impatient puzzled expression). I mean, when I go to a café I order coffee. What else?? Okay, could be a hot chocolate in winter. As regards the Rüdesheimer Kaffee. It is the same principle as Irish Coffee. Basically alcohol, sugar, coffee and cream. Not my cup of tea [pun intended]. I do not really like Rüdesheim. But the mechanical music machines museum does look interesting with the right person doing the explanation. From what I have read over the years and seen on land tours, other excursions are superior and other places more culturally interesting than Rüdesheim. Edit: For me, Bingen on the other side of the river at Rüdesheim is a more interesting place for various reasons. Rüdesheim is touristy old world charm with wine and merriment. With the Viking Rhine Getaway it seems that the long Black Forest excursion is the least favourite. End edit. notamermaid

In the Rhine thread https://boards.cruisecritic.com/topic/2984992-rhine-water-levels-2024-and-similar-topics/page/9/#comments @euro. asked a question. I answered partly with statistics on the Danube. I am posting this again here with more explanation in figures. Here goes, the Bavarian Danube (Pfelling gauge) water levels in the first half of August (1st to 15th): 2018 - no sailing of 135m ships possible in the shallow parts of Germany, bad in Hungary as well. Figure range at Pfelling was 227cm to 259cm. 2019 - not too bad, sailing restricted, Hungary was okay as far as I know. Figure range at Pfelling was 274cm to 458cm. 2020 - bad start, fine from 5 August Figure range at Pfelling was 247cm to 557cm. 2021 - perfect Figure range at Pfelling was 344cm to 497cm. 2022 - see 2018 Figure range at Pfelling was 217cm to 266cm. 2023 - perfect Figure range at Pfelling was 322cm to 486cm. Note the huge range in 2020, it brought the river to a high level that impacted sailing under the bridge at Passau. This made the graph look like this: That is not considered bad flooding, it is a regular occurrence, it is just that one bridge at Passau does not have enough headroom for ships with a high superstructure. The surge took the river less than 24 hours to get from "fine" to "not sailing under the bridge". So how did the month of August progress in those years, was the second half different? 2018 - no, just as bad 2019 - fluctuating and minimally better 2020 - after the surge the river went down maddeningly fast to a too low level for many ships but recovered at the end of the month 2021 - levels continued to be stable and perfect for sailing 2022 - the level recovered fast and after a surge was "wobbly" as regards the ability to sail but okay for some ships 2023 - went high and at the end of the month a river traffic ban was issued. So, basically, errrr, no way of knowing what the river at Pfelling will do from one week to the next... notamermaid

A German cruise blog also talks of a deviation for the person's cruise with Viva Cruises and their stop at Nijmegen do to construction work at Arnhem. notamermaid

Going back all the way to the Celts: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhenus_Pater Rhenus bicornis of the Romans, a sculptured head: https://www.rheinische-geschichte.lvr.de/Epochen-und-Themen/Themen/der-rhein-im-denken-der-roemer/DE-2086/lido/5d63a243246c37.82044604 The two horns are said to represent the fact that the Rhine has two branches in the Netherlands. notamermaid

Indeed. The abysmal year of 2018 seems to have brought in more awareness with companies that people prefer to be informed prior to sailing and from what I have gathered there have been more notifications and e-mails sent to passengers. Also, passengers are generally more aware of what may be in store. However, it is not a given that you will be informed or that the company can inform you. Say you leave on 10 August to a cruise starting in Amsterdam and all river levels are fine. You sail the Rhine and by the time you are on the Main river the weather is really dry and the level in the Danube drops. A hydrologist may have been able to tell you of the risk on 9 August but neither he nor the company can tell you for sure on 11 August that you cannot sail on 14 August. It really depends on what level the river is at when you leave on 10 August and then you can still not be certain either way. Likewise it is the same coming from Budapest and then finding the Rhine is too low. We have had passengers report that the captain announced in the morning that they would not be able to sail the Danube (at Pfelling) the same evening. Lots of scenarios... It is not an exact science but usually both rivers are low in a similar time frame as we share weather patterns overall. However, the "cut-off point" for sailing or not sailing on the German Danube is often reached before the corresponding level on the German Rhine (in the Rhine Gorge that is). An important difference between the two rivers is that on the Rhine the shallow area just extends in length as the river level drops whereas on the Danube you get two shallow sections, first one in Germany and then one in Hungary around Budapest (scenarios further down from Hungary I am not familiar with, low water happens there as well though). Major ways of avoiding both Rhine and Danube shallows: 1. Choose a route that does not include Pfelling (mentioned before and explained in the Danube thread). 2. Do not choose a "Grand European" itinerary. 3. Choose a route that does not include the Rhine Gorge (which you may prefer to keep in the itinerary because it is the most scenic part (tough luck!)). 4. Choose a 110m ship over a 135m ship. As a rule of thumb that gives you a tiny advantage of lower draft and could be the difference between sailing and not sailing. Finally, my "disclaimer". I cannot and will not give figures of when ships cannot sail. That is a range of figures depending on each individual ship and its captain and may even vary going upstream or downstream. However, from past years' experiences and authorities commenting in the news I will give hints and tips about it when the rivers get low. Flooding is different so there are figures declared by authorities to be the maximum when ships are allowed to sail. Just before that level for a specific section of river is reached captains know a river traffic ban will be issued. Another problem if you want to call it that is, by the way, the fact that as the river level drops on the Rhine, so do the landing stages and the available water for the ship hull at the embankments. You may have to dock away from the prime spots. @euro. I am taking the liberty of using your question to put a bit more statistics in the Danube thread. notamermaid