Rio Sugar Loaf vs. Corcovado

[urlaub]

We will be in Rio de Janeiro next December. We have 2 days time until our flight home. Is it a must to visit Corcovado ( Christ the Redeemer) AND Sugar Loaf?

Or only one of them and other placer in and around Rio? We don't want to be on a beach.

Thank you for any information:):):)

[sitraveler]

You'll have plenty time for both.

 

All US flights leave at night. Weather is key, it really doesn't pay to go to either in the clouds. We haven't been that impressed with Rio to spend a lot of time wandering about.

[VidaNaPraia]

I'd go to Corcovado on the first sunny morning you encounter. The view out over the city is spectacular when the weather cooperates. In December, there are likely to be lines for the train up the mountain, so getting there early helps. There is also an option to take a taxi up to a parking lot staging area part way up the mountain and from there take an official van to the top (as other vehicles are not allowed). Try to familiarize yourself with the city so you can spot some of the sights from on high. And take that iconic photo of yourself with arms outstretched just under those of the Cristo. The interesting museum of naif art is just to the left of the base station for the trian.

Sugarloaf is a somewhat different experience and view, and is pleasant to do at dusk to see the lights coming on and sparkling in the city. There are also some short trails on the top, with monkeys in the trees and buzzards soaring on updrafts at that height. There is a snack bar that serves drinks while you watch the lights.

I find the site www.ipanema.com to be a good introduction to Rio. It includes information about sights, museums, beaches, neighborhoods, and much more, with decent maps. You can also search for certain destination in Rio on YouTube to view videos of what those places are like.

Even if you are not sit-on-the-beach people, do stroll along one of the intricately-tiled beach sidewalks and stop for a cold coconut water or beer at one of the kiosks, since the beaches are a very integral part of what gives Rio its unique flavor.

The historic Centro makes for an other nice stroll. Read up on the history in a guidebook before setting out. Stop for a coffee at the famous Confeitaria Colombo with its graceful 1800s architecture.

From Praca XV near the Centro, you can take a ferry across the bay over to Niteroi. It takes 12 minutes and runs every 15. The view back at Rio from the boat is gorgeous. You also pass the fairytale castle island of Ilha Fiscal. Once there, visit the small tourist booth outside the ferry terminal for info. You can go to the city park to take more photos of Rio, go to the museum of art, the work of Brazil's most famous architect Oscar Neimeyer, or have a fresh-out-of-the-water lunch at the fishmarket.

Explore the neighborhoods: Ipanema, Copacabana, etc.

There is lots of shopping, from the chic mall in Lebon and several others, to the shopping streets of Ipanema and Copacabana, to the inexpensive stalls of Saara. If you are there on a Sunday, got to the Hippie Fair in Ipanema, with lots of unique art and crafts, and great Bahian food.

Got o the Feira Nordestina in the Sao Conrado neighborhood to get an idea of the music, food and crafts of the northeast part of the country.

You can hire a Rio tour guide with car to get around to more places in less time and also get to some places a bit off the beaten path, especially natural areas around the city, a good value for some. Or simply take a taxi from the cooperativa taxi rank around the corner from your hotel (the ones the hotel calls will be more expensive and not any safer). Look for the cooperativa name and phone number painted on the back fender, as these cooperatives are known entities based in a certain neighborhood (not gypsy cabs, but not expensive radio taxis either).

 

If you are there on a good night for music (leading up to weekend and Saturday), consider one of the samba bars in Lapa to see live samba and locals dancing to it. Try Carioca da Gema or the more showy Scenarium. Or drop by BipBip Bar in Copacabana for live jam sessions of Rio music styles.

 

I'm impressed with Rio.

Happy travels.

[Keith1010]

You can easily see both of them and still have a lot more time to see other things.

 

Keith

[urlaub]

Thank you VidaNaPraia. Your post helps a lot. We travel since the early 70s and have been mostly everywhere but Brazil is an unknown part for us. Do you think we can do sightseeing in Rio without a tour guide? Is it safe during daytime. We don't want to go in dangerous parts after dark. We have been in Buenos Aires last year for ourselves.

[VidaNaPraia]

Lots of tourists see Rio on their own every year, pleasantly and rewardingly. Cooperativa taxis are relatively inexpensive and easily found. Stay in Ipanema, Arpoador or Copacabana. In Rio, you need to be vigilant at all times, and not carry valuables in a way that might attract attention, but you should not allow this to overwhelm your enjoyment. Happy travels.

[urlaub]

Thank you! This gives me a good feeling. Is it okay as well to go for our own in Recife, Salvador and Buzios? These are the ports of our cruise.

[VidaNaPraia]

Here is a long set of suggestions for Salvador that I just finished writing for another poster on CC:

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1823411

 

In Recife, just take a taxi to Colonial Olinda (about 30 minutes). Have the friver leave you on top of the hill and walk down, looking at the views, musicians/dancers of the local rhythms, crafts, architecture, etc. That should take a good part of the day in port, and is quite safe. Next (if time) I would go to the unique ceramic studio and sculpture park Olaria Brennand in Recife. Finish (if time) with a drink on the beach at Boa Viagem or in Recife Velho.

 

Buzios is a small beach village. Plan to just stroll or sit at one of the beaches.

[John Bull]

You should certainly go up both Corcovado & Sugarloaf. From Corcovado the city views are more distant, from Sugarloaf it's more like being a bird looking down at the city below and IMHO a much better vantage-point.

 

Two ways to Corcovado, other than ship's offerings.

 

By funicular. To get to the lower station, you'll need transport such as a metered taxi hailed in the street - not those stationed at the cruise port who will charge an inflated fixed-price.

At the station you join a line to buy your ticket. It's a timed ticket, so if isn't valid for a while you don't have to stay in line & can mebbe go find a beer. Ticket includes admission at the top. No timing or long lines for the return. Be aware that cruise ships & other big groups block-book for mid-morning, so if you time it wrong you could have a wait of as much as two hours or more between buying your ticket & the time on that ticket.

By taxi. Taxis at the cruise port & elsewhere can drive you to the top, wait for you, & drive you back down to any city location for a fixed fee. There are no taxis available at the top. Agree that fee before you get in, pay when you're done - its the norm. Be aware that you'll have to pay the entry fee (check seasonal rates on the web) at the top - something taxis "forget" to mention when comparing their rates with the funicular.:rolleyes:

 

Sugarloaf - the only way up is the cablecar.

 

Salvador de Bahia - the old town overlooks the port & the modern city. An easy walk to a huge elevator which takes you there. Sadly not a safe city, the old town is fine & well worth a couple of hours, but be wary of straying. For your own safety, the tourist police may turn you back if you leave the old city.

 

Recife - I agree with VNP, head for Olinda. Bus stops are some distance from the ship & drop you at the bottom of Olinda, means an arduous climb. or jump the little tourist street-train. So taxi is probably worth the cost, especially if you share.

From Olinda you can catch a bus back to Recife from the main road at the bottom of the hill. It's right by the tourist office, or lots of people to help you catch the right bus. Take the bus into Santo Antonio, the old part of Recife. Market stalls, shops & sights. The former prison is now a quirky shopping mall, with boutique shops in the cells. From there most folk can walk back to the ship.

 

JB :)

[VidaNaPraia]

Salvador de Bahia .....Sadly not a safe city, the old town is fine & well worth a couple of hours, but be wary of straying. For your own safety, the tourist police may turn you back if you leave the old city.

 

I disagree (based not only on spending considerable time in the touristic neighborhoods, but many others in Salvador).

A lot of the city is quite old, with only a certain part of the historic district prettied up for tourists by having forcibly removed the folks who lived there. The historic district of Pelourinho is full of people (foreign and domestic tourists, and locals) enjoying the eating/drinking establishments and the music and shops until late into the night.

The plentiful tourist police may reinforce the obvious for anywhere in Brazil, not to walk on deserted streets where trouble may lurk, particularly for conspicuous "rich" tourists. Much of the blah-blah-blah one reads about Salvador I simply chalk up to some folks fear of people of color and of places that seem dodgy to them because of looking more rundown than home.(whereas in Salvador, a rundown exterior is a good way not to call attention to what's inside :-)

Do enjoy your visit.

[John Bull]

I disagree (based not only on spending considerable time in the touristic neighborhoods, but many others in Salvador).

 

I bow to your local knowledge but I posted as I saw & heard - from the viewpoint of a foreign visitor. A visitor who is accustomed to independent travel in many & varied parts of the world, and who takes the same view as yourself about over-hyped dangers.

We Brits are made of sterner stuff ;)

 

For Salvador de Bahia, all ship's passengers were warned not to stray from the tourist part. A warning which was not given for the other six Brazilian ports visited, including Forteleza & Rio.

Sorry, but that's not a great advertisement for the place.

 

Several groups who wandered from the "dollied-up" part were turned back by tourist-police.

Saw it for myself.

That's why I mentioned it.

But as a visitor, I don't know who is right - you or the tourist police.

 

They are to be congratulated on their care for visitors, but most places in the world don't feel the need to even have tourist-police.

Again, what does that say about Salvador?

 

One passenger was robbed in another part of Salvador. A cherished wedding ring that he wore as a necklace.

Yes, the sort of thing that can happen anywhere. But it happened in Salvador.

 

This started as a simple word of caution in a two-line post about Salvador.

Your rebuttal, and this response, have highlighted the issue. In fact, we have inadvertently over-hyped the issue.

So to keep a sense of proportion, I think we can both reassure those who read this thread that there are no particular safety issues in the parts of the city frequented by cruise passengers.

 

JB :)

[VidaNaPraia]

I cannot, obviously, speak for the reasoning of your cruise ship line administration. I always caution foreign visitors to be vigilant anywhere in Brazil, particularly in any of the larger cities. None is safer or more perilous than another, IMO; more depends on the behavior of the visitor. I am uncomfortable with any Brazilian city being singled out, based on extensive experience over many years. Brazil is very emphatically not Disneyland, and you cannot wander anywhere with your head in the clouds, distracted. Never bring anything you cannot afford, emotionally or financially, to lose, or that you would hesitate one millisecond to give up. Do not wander on deserted streets or areas, even if they seem upper class. As long as tourists are still wandering heedless, that should be highlighted for anyone thinking of visiting in any capacity, and I do think it is important information to repeat. A basic understanding of the geography and demographics of each city may help to avoid problems as well, and it makes sense to inquire on site and also do some research ahead of time with guidebooks or online into the areas you want to visit.

Certainly, for one example (that is neither Rio nor Salvador), my friends in Recife, another common port of call, have warned me not to cross the street after dark in the popular Boa Viagem neighborhood, from the side with the bars/restaurants and highrise vacation apartments to the beach side; there are no tourist police there to provide guidance.

Rio indeed does have tourist police in the beachside neighborhoods where tourists usually stay. Also, more recently, 24 hour police posts have been set up in the poor neighborhoods on the hills directly behind those beach neighborhoods through which the residents of the hilltops access the city, the intent being to move "the bad guys" to other locations. This has not prevented two tragic events involving foreign visitors within just the past 2 weeks. What does that say about the most popular Brazilian destination for international tourists? Only that most foreign tourists have a pleasant and uneventful visit enjoying the iconic sights.

Adjoining Salvador’s historic district, which as mentioned has been prettied up for visitors, are areas that remain in their original state with their existing, often quite poor, residents. So from one street to the next, the “climate” can change. Just the other day, I saw a young foreigner with a huge SLR around his neck wandering on a main, but deserted street adjoining the Pelourinho historic district in Salvador. That camera represents perhaps a year of minimum wage salary (and costs 5X more in Brazil than in the U.S. or UK, so think 5 years' salary), if in Salvador one is fortunate enough to even have such a job. Many times, foreign visitors seem to need protection from their own poor decisions and heedlessness.

But yes, to keep a sense of proportion, I do think we can reassure those who read this thread that there are no safety issues to hinder their enjoyment in the parts of Salvador frequented by cruise passengers and other foreign tourists who are paying attention, nor should there be in other Brazilian cities.

[pmacher61]

We will be in Rio de Janeiro next December. We have 2 days time until our flight home. Is it a must to visit Corcovado ( Christ the Redeemer) AND Sugar Loaf?

Or only one of them and other placer in and around Rio? We don't want to be on a beach.

Thank you for any information:):):)

This is Rio. Fica fria. Nothing is a must although Corcovado and Sugarloaf are the two well known icons. VidaNP has it right about visiting them. There are senior discounts if you qualify. Bring good I.D. Zozo is a good restaurant and bar at the foot of Sugarloaf. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g303506-d2353105-Reviews-Zozo-Rio_de_Janeiro_State_of_Rio_de_Janeiro.html

The physically fit can hike up to the first plateau of Sugarloaf on the trail that begins in the forestial park adjacent to the beach in Urca. It's a 55 minute moderate climb that will allow you to work off those extra pounds you gained while on the cruise. Don't overlook a stroll through Jardim Botanico... a delightful park in the center of the city. Or an evening stoll around Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas in the evening . You can have a light meal and hear live music. Very popular with the locals. Many find the Sunday hippie fair in Plaza Osorio interesting especially for souveneirs. Check out the Lapa music scene at www.lanalapa.com.br

 

I find the site www.ipanema.com to be a good introduction to Rio. It includes information about sights, museums, beaches, neighborhoods, and much more, with decent maps.

My wife's son, still sleeping from his long flight from LA to our home in Rio, helped author www.ipanema.com when it first started over 10 years ago. It is still a reliable guide. In addition to the possible things to do and see already mentioned you might want to consider a cruise on the Guanabarra bay with Eike Baptista's Pink Fleet cruise,

http://www.pinkfleet.com.br/ing/

[VidaNaPraia]

.....you might want to consider a cruise on the Guanabarra bay with Eike Baptista's Pink Fleet cruise,

http://www.pinkfleet.com.br/ing/

 

iirc TA's Brazil forum had a fairly recent post that Pink Fleet is just doing private party charters these days.

Other chances to get out onto the water in Rio include the inexpensive ferry ride to Niteroi, a boat ride to see the fairytale castle on Ilha Fiscal, and a boat ride to Paqueta island, among others.

[pmacher61]

iirc TA's Brazil forum had a fairly recent post that Pink Fleet is just doing private party charters these days.

Other chances to get out onto the water in Rio include the inexpensive ferry ride to Niteroi, a boat ride to see the fairytale castle on Ilha Fiscal, and a boat ride to Paqueta island, among others.

Believe you are right about the Pink Fleet though it may change again, but bay boat tours are available at http://www.saveiros.com.br

I had occasion to revisit both Corcovado and Sugarloaf this week (friend came to town) - there were no senior discounts for non-Brasilians on the Corcovado cogwheel train (R$46) or the Sugarloaf teleferico (R$ 62). For the physically fit couple who want to save $ and have a fun hike, I suggest the 55 minute moderate+ hike up to the first plateau of Sugarloaf (which provides almost as scenic a view as the second plateau). You need to hike back down to avoid full fare.