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Whispering up the Amazon


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Master Echo: November 28th Boca da Valeria

 

Appreciate all of the varied and interesting photographs that mainsd posted through his Facebook connection. Brought back lots of nice memories from our sailing along the Amazon River earlier this year on the Silver Cloud.

 

Great' date=' challenging and stimulating details and posting from Master Echo regarding Boca da Valeria. We found that [b']Amazon River village to be very significant and importan[/b]t. Yes, seeing the electric line and satellite TV dishes was somewhat surprising. We were told that the TV access was part of the government's plan to lessen the birth rate among the residents there. They said having the option TV had worked. Just what I heard. Agree with Master Echo that there are lots of "debate points" and questions from when doing this type of cultural visit.

 

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

 

From our Jan. 25-Feb. 20, 2015, Amazon River-Caribbean combo sailing over 26 days that started in Barbados, here is the link below to that live/blog. Lots of great visuals from this amazing Brazil river and these various Caribbean Islands (Dutch ABC's, St. Barts, Dominica, Grenada, etc.) that we experienced. Check it out at:

http://www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=2157696

Now at 32,894 views for these postings.

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We arrived at 1.00 pm and tied alongside the Porto Flutante and we were grateful that passengers are not allowed to walk up to the top, and shuttle buses were provided to take us up. This is a floating pontoon to cope with the vast changes of the seasonal levels of the river. Being the peak of the dry season the water level was very low which made the climb up to the top of the dock very steep. The myriad of the Amazon River boats obviously do not use this, but dock a little further downstream, leaving their passengers with a long stair climb to access the city.

 

We walked out through the dock gates to a thoroughfare which was thronging with street vendors, despite being a Sunday. Despite hard bargaining, the first of a line of taxi drivers would not budge from US25 to the Opera House. Whilst photographing outside, and the door to the entrance being open, Madame took the opportunity to peek inside. Much to our surprise, there was another couple from the ship sitting down and they told me that there would be a private viewing behind the scenes starting in a few minutes narrated in English - and this we were told by the Shore Concierge, would not be open on a Sunday! So being nosey paid off!

 

The cost was 10 Rias each, US3, or £2. Having bought our tickets you walk up a couple of steps, although if you walk a little to the right, there is a small ramp for anyone not wishing to walk up the stairs, you went through a little turnstile, and you are in the stalls. What greets you is a miniature Covent Garden, with a very French design. The seats are well tiered and the floor is mahogany. Facing the stage on the second level is the box reserved for the Governor only - a la the Royal Box. At the apex above the stage are the letters "TA" - Theatro Amazonas. The ceiling is beautifully painted. Walking back outside we climbed to the first floor, and investigated the boxes, which went round both sides, entry was gained by a small white painted door. These seats in here were not so elaborate as those of the stalls. Walking in the corridors were busts of Shakespeare and famous French playwrights of the 19th century, together with four chairs, over 100 years old, made of mahogany with wicker seats. Going to a higher floor, was an elaborate dressing room with a chaise longue, a tiny wash basin, hooks for hanging both props and clothing, and a large baroque ornate mirror. Off one of these corridors was an ante room in which was the Rubber (robber?) Barons held their receptions. This room was lovely with rose inlaid marketry flooring and a lovely picture on the ceiling, in the centre of which was a lady, whose eyes followed you around the room.

 

This tour lasted about an hour, and with only a handful of other people it was easy to listen to the guide whose English was good and understandable.

 

By now it was aproaching 5pm, and the initial plans we had went by the board. Outside the Opera House, is a large square, the trees of which were decorated, and a large Christmas tree stood at one side. People were beginning to assemble as the musicians were starting to rehearse for an outside concert that evening. There was a line of taxis and we agreed a price of 25 Reis - £5 or US7.50 back to the port, considerably less than the outward journey.

 

Patrick one of the Voices of Silversea was staging his cabaret at 6.45 pm, and as usual with us - always trying to get a pint into a half pint pot, had several prior engagements, and did not think we would make this due to time constraints. We told him this and apologized should we not make it. In the event, we attended and was seated in the "Royal Box" as usual. Patrick asked if the person who had played the Queen in the Neptune was in the theatre but got no response. He then called out for Madame and Sir let the cat out of the bag where we were seated. Patrick came up the stairs to the Box with hat and red gloves, and took Madame down to the stage for a performance of Hello Dolly. Madame was completely unprepared for this, wearing wooden mules which could have flown into the audience with every kick, or,lost her balance because the shoes on wooden surfaces! Seemingly several passengers thought it had been previously rehearsed?

 

After cocktails in the Bar we adjourned to the MDR for a special meal which Sir had arranged. The guest list comprised MainsD, Neil and Nan Sullins, Vicky the CD and Nicolas, the F & B manager. To show our appreciation t the end of the meal, we asked Sergio the RM, if we could thank the young chef. When he appeared, despite his dark skin, he blushed visibly and his hands were shaking.

 

Having trouble with CC website - however more to follow later

 

Master Echo

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That bit of shimmy-shimmy, and the sometimes larger hump-bumps, that sensation at being at sea ... Love that.

 

This cruise has been fairly smooth seas, nothing much to upset the apple cart. But just the gentle motion of being at sea (we are in forwardest suite) is sufficient to keep us afloat, so to speak. We have three still at sea and have found our pace.

 

Near Manaus we birded with the help of Pina and Rodolpho. We motored out to the meeting of the waters which is religious around here so it's not possible to skip it, you are in its thrall. Then, we headed for the far shore for a couple of hours, we were lucky to see quite a few birds including raptors which we had not expected (other than Osprey). So, without consulting my notes, most were life birds:

 

Striated heron

Smoothed-billed ani

Umbrella bird

Coal-crested finch

Crab hawk

Black collar hawk

Savanah hawk

White heron

Osprey

Unspecified parakeets

 

And more, could not identify all. Many are life birds ... and I'm still high. Jim had such a good time with this.

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To show our appreciation t the end of the meal, we asked Sergio the RM, if we could thank the young chef. When he appeared, despite his dark skin, he blushed visibly and his hands were shaking.

 

Master Echo

 

This was so nice of you. I assume that the chef did not know why he was literally being called on the carpet. :)

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Quote: Originally Posted by mainsd

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=f7272c468e

 

More pics of final ports now posted

 

Appreciate these many added details and posts by Master Echo, OctoberKat, etc. Hope that David does not mind, but to promote and encourage everyone to check out his very nice picture postings, below are just two examples from his many fine visuals that can be seen and experienced from these wonderful areas of the Amazon River and in the Caribbean.

 

Seeing is believing!! Don't miss his visuals or those on my live/blog if you are considering to sail here and visit these excellent locations. For us, David has brought back many nice memories.

 

We really enjoyed our Friday, Feb. 6 visit to the small town of Parintins on Tupinambarana Island, for a sampling of this centuries-old Indian culture was they celebrate an annual “Boi Bumba” festival. The yearly folkloric festival, considered second only to Carnival in Rio, is held in June. For cruise ship visitors, the townspeople re-enact this festival for visitors throughout the year. Parintins is situated in the largest river archipelago of the mid-Amazon.

 

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

 

For details and visuals, etc., from our July 1-16, 2010, Norway Coast/Fjords/Arctic Circle cruise experience from Copenhagen on the Silver Cloud, check out this posting. This posting is now at 189,544 views.

http://www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=1227923

 

 

Here are just two of David's photo's from this Indian culture event that is used to celebrate their annual “Boi Bumba” festival. Fun??!! During our program, we did not see this large fish, but, YES, this same lovely lady with the great costume was a "star" during our show, too!:

 

Nov2015PixsA1%201_zpsistm4kws.jpg

 

 

Nov2015PixsA2%201_zpsjwexflsq.jpg

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Rockin' and rollin' tonight on the high seas. Jim was queasy at first but remitted now, praise all the gods.

 

Wonderful dinner tonight. I was enamored of the pumpkin lasagna and have set myself the task of learning to make it. The white wine was a very nice white Bourdeaux, I think they finally intuited my discontent with proffered wines and hauled this one out yesterday and it does fit the bill and then some.

 

MasterEcho and maensd, sorry we have not had a chat. We hang out sometimes in the Observation lounge on deck ten. Often reachable in our suite.

 

Blondietoo, would love to scrabble with you, call me at 7601.

 

Sent from my iPad

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Hey Octoberkat - would love to have a look at how the other half live in the big suites if you dont mind sometime :-) you can message me in 525 if you dont mind showing me when convenient [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16][emoji106]🏽

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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November 30 - Manaus

 

This of course was our second day in Manaus and it became a really magical one!

 

MainsD had organized a day trip with Amazon Eco Tour Adventures via email some months before our departure which had received good ratings on Trip Advisor. No money was expected upfront, and the trip would be only for those on our ship, which others who had also booked , brought the party to 13.

 

We disembarked the Whisper at 8.30 and as promised Milton Fernandes was waiting on the quayside. He walked us across the pontoon down some steps to where his boat was tied and so very conveniently located, only yards from the Whisper. We had expected the boat to be the same as those that ply up and down the Amazon to and from the various ports in its environs, instead of which it was a elongated high powered speed boat, with a roof but open sided. There was a toilet in the rear and a seating capacity of 23, with life jackets in a rack overhead. Soft drinks were available throughout the day.

 

We set off at a stirring rate up river under the new bridge, slowing down for pictures. It resembles the Vasco da Gama bridge in Lisbon, but is not so long being only 5 kilometers. After an hour we reached Dessana to visit an indigenous tribe so named. Here we disembarked via a jetty, and up the sandy river bank to the Chief's house. This was like a large barn that is flooded during the wet season when the villagers retreat to high ground. After a folkloric show, we were shown to an outside cooking area and invited to try the local popcorn which was in fact large barbecued ants! Somewhat crunchy!! Most people walked up the steep wooden steps to where the villagers' houses were located. The "barn" could only be used in the dry season and for general gathering. Curiously one of the women was dancing with a baby on her shoulder, only three months old, who was very paled skinned. Apparently the baby's father was a German.

 

The Dessana tribe were quite small in stature, the women bare breasted but with garlands round their necks, which afforded some modesty. Decorated round the barn were various items for sale that the tribe make for their visitors.

 

Speeding further upstream we reached a covered jetty at Jacareubal. On the jetty was a cubicle for use for anyone wishing to change into swimwear. Hanging on the rail, were a number of life vests to maintain buoyancy because this was where we were to swim with the Pink Dolphins.

 

We entered the Rio Negro, which means "black river", but who's water is dark brown caused by tannins in the water, by wooden steps which disappeared below the water line. A local already in the water had a bucket of fish and after a few seconds we were joined by a female pink dolphin. A pod of this species have their territory in this part of the river. They are completely wild and free to roam, but choose to come to be fed. Just like what happens in Stingray City in Grand Cayman.

 

All those who went into the water interacted in some way with the Dolphins. They are called "pink", but in all honesty they resemble albinos with a tinge of pink. We were told not to touch their noses as these are particularly sensitive, but we could touch their bodies. Needless to say we all did. Their skin was silky but solid and were about four feet long and both the male and female were diving between our legs and appeared very strong. We must have been in the water with them for about half an hour, and only when another party arrived, were we asked to move away from the "feeding area", although we did remain in the water swimming near them. Although it is said that they are blind, our guide told us that this is not true, their eyesight is not good. They jumped out of the water to take the fish, proving they could see, rather than relying on their sonar. Reluctantly it was time for us to depart.

 

Our next port of call was a beach called Paricatuba, where we drew up on the sandy beach-like area, and walked to a couple of cafes, where drinks could be bought. They were also barbecueing their famous fish, the piraruca, the largest freshwater fish with scales in the world. They offered us to try some- plain but accompanied with fresh lime and some very hot chilli sauce. It was quite delicious and resembled halibut or turbot.

 

We returned to our boat and sped back towards and past Manaus for seventy minutes, though still on the Rio Negro. Lunch was taken on a floating restaurant - Xiborena and comprised half a dozen hot dishes plus salads accompanied by a soft drink of your choice. They also presented a sales opportunity ranging from fridge magnets to t-shirts and hats. Then followed a short walk inland to see an anaconda, which had been caught by a local lad, and put into a box, to keep as a pet!

 

After lunch we then went to a fish farm where several species were kept in various tanks. What we had eaten earlier in the day barbecued, we now saw live. We were each given a four foot rod with a sardine type bait fish tied with string and then invited to dangle this into the water. The ensuing scene was quite astonishing, up to half a dozen Pirarucu began threshing about, half jumping out of the water. They do not bite their prey, but suck, and the noise was quite deafening. Those that were clever and dangled the bait just above the water and pulled it out quickly, found that the one fishbait was not devoured immediately.

 

Our final stop was to the Meeting of the Waters. We speeded to the area, and stopped straddling both the Rio Negro and the Rio Solimoes, Amazon, the former dark and the latter the muddy brown we had come so used to, even before entering the Amazon basin.

 

The two rivers take about eight kilometres to mix due to differences in speed of flow, acidity, density and finally temperature. Moving slowly between the two waters whilst trailing our hands in the water, it was quite evident that the 78F Rio Negro, was decidedly colder than the 84F of the Rio Solimoes.

 

We now headed back to Manaus cruising past the lines of ferry boats bunkering stations, the various riverside markets and finally back from whence we had started, after a journey of 75 miles at about 4.30pm.

 

Back on board we had time to shower and change ready for a 7.00 pm departure for a concert at the Opera House arranged by SS. There were 74 participants and we drove in convoy in three coaches, a journey taking twenty minutes, whereas the day before, MainsD had walked back from the Opera House to the pier in four minutes!! The performance turned out to be primarily a piano recital, with only orchestral accompaniment in the last twenty minutes. The entertainment lasted over two hours and this meant that our anticipated arrival back, where we were to be met by a welcome home party at 22.00, turned into a belated 22.45, with only the HD waiting at the top of the gangway. Although the auditorium was said to have limited a/c, they had pushed the boat out on our behalf seemingly, and it was blowing a cold gale with most people feeling chilled the whole evening. Obviously a bonus for the rest of the audience in a nearly full house of locals.

 

It was however kind of Clive - the Shore Concierge manager to arrange this at short notice. So ended a most magical day.

 

December 1st - our final day in Manaus.

 

Before describing the day's events thanks to those who have posted kind comments about our reviews so far.

 

Clarifying a couple of points that have been discussed on other boards, we have taken the opportunity to get an accurate answer. The HD has confirmed that the crew are still expected and are tested on passengers names. The F & B says the dinner in La Terrazza is limited to a maximum of 80 covers, but up to 30 of these can be outside, which gives the impression that the venue is far from full. Concerning Silver Muse, Barry the future cruise consultant obtained a definitive answer from corporate HQ that the ship will definitely have a casino. It appears that aspects of the deck plans have yet to be finalized absolutely.

 

Some points about Amazon navigation which might be of interest. From the mouth to Manaus is 600 miles. We embarked two river pilots in Macaipa and these stayed with us until Manaus, working four or six hour watches. The process was reversed on our departure. There was a minimum depth below the ship of ten meters - 33 feet. The river charts were updated more frequently than the usual weekly basis for sea navigation, because sand bars are changing continually. The river pilots feed into this updating using their I-pads. Although there should have been 17 buoys at a cost to the ship of around US1500, only three were illuminated or even present!!

 

Meanwhile back at Manaus on our final day - December 1st, we walked out of the dock gates, turning right and a five minute walk brought you to the Mercado - Adolpho Lisboa modeled on the Halle building in Paris and constructed by Gustave Eiffel. This is general market offering a range of food and other items, whereas the adjacent building specialises in fish and meat and is more akin to a wholesale market. A very large variety of local fish was on sale, most of which were still alive, wriggling and gasping their last breath as they lay on the slab - most disconcerting!

 

All along the waterfront opposite the markets, are small kiosks selling tickets for the river ferries with a huge banner displaying the ships' names, what days they sailed and the duration - for example the long sail down to Belem by express boat takes three days, whereas the shorter journey to Santarem, with more stops, takes six.

 

We took a taxi outside the market for an agreed 35 Reis - £7 or $10, to the Bosque da Ciencia, the science park. This is located to the east of the city so the drive was interesting through the suburbs. On arrival, our taxi driver got out to enquire that they were open, and we agreed with him to pick us up an hour later to return us to the ship. Entry fee was five Reis for three of us!

 

The park is laid out as a rainforest area with indigenous trees and then small enclosures within, which housed a variety of creatures. The first we encountered was a great otter who was lying in the shade out of the water, he must have been over four feet in length. Two huge round pools housed a number of manatees with names on their backs. The water was murky so they appeared indistinct, and there was a notice stating maintenance was being done and apologies for the lack of clear water, the only problem, this notice was very faded questioning the length of time this state of affairs had existed!

 

The park is landscaped down a hillside and at the bottom was a large lake and in an adjacent pond was an adult crocodile. Walking back we came across another smaller pond which housed electric eels, something we have never before seen in the wild - we were glad they were enclosed! Also in a little stream were basking baby turtles.

 

Keeping to his promise, our taxi driver was waiting and we returned to the ship.

 

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

PS more to follow - hopefully!

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November 30 - Manaus This of course was our second day in Manaus and it became a really magical one!

MainsD had organized a day trip with Amazon Eco Tour Adventures

Master Echo

PS more to follow - hopefully!

 

Appreciate this very comprehensive and detailed update from your "adventures" in and around Manaus. Glad that things worked out so well. We also used Amazon Eco Tour Adventures. In our case, we went about 60 miles north of Manaus to explore deep in the Amazon rainforest and the real "jungle". It was an "Indiana Jones" adventure we will never forget.

 

For future reference, this firm can be reached at:

http://www.amazonecoadventures.com

 

Yes, looking forward to reading more!!

 

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

 

From our Jan. 25-Feb. 20, 2015, Amazon River-Caribbean combo sailing over 26 days that started in Barbados, here is the link below to that live/blog. Lots of great visuals from this amazing Brazil river and these various Caribbean Islands (Dutch ABC's, St. Barts, Dominica, Grenada, etc.) that we experienced. Check it out at:

http://www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=2157696

Now at 32,937 views for these postings.

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Manaus has a population of around two million and the city shows the signs of past glory, decline and Renaissance. The grand 19th century buildings, both commercial and residential are in varying degrees of preservation. Parts of the hinterland round the dock area are derelict, reflecting hard times. The revival of the last few decades has began to make a difference. Taxis are plentiful, but don't always expect that the drivers will take US dollars or speak English, and in some cases you get a better rate if you use Reis, but in others, the reverse can be true. A correction on my previous post - on this subject. The rate that we paid on the 29th from the port to the opera house was only $10.

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Was wonderful to meet you and your husband OctoberKat and thanks very much for the tour and your hospitality

 

Likewise, David. Hope we meet up again, would be grand.

 

Now ensconced in Barbados for three days at the superlative Sandpiper in a Tree-top Suite with ocean view -- and loving it. http://www.sandpiperbarbados.com. What a great find is this place!

 

I'll be writing a wrap-up of our cruise experience later in the week once we get home so, stay tuned to this spot on your dial.

 

MasterEcho, your posts have been great, as if someone were expertly narrating our holiday, thankee.

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Likewise, David. Hope we meet up again, would be grand.

 

Now ensconced in Barbados for three days at the superlative Sandpiper in a Tree-top Suite with ocean view -- and loving it. http://www.sandpiperbarbados.com. What a great find is this place!

 

I'll be writing a wrap-up of our cruise experience later in the week once we get home so, stay tuned to this spot on your dial.

 

MasterEcho, your posts have been great, as if someone were expertly narrating our holiday, thankee.

 

The hotel looks fabulous. It is a great find as I've struggled in the past to find a decent hotel on the island. Have you dined there, how's the food?

 

Looking forward to reading your wrap-up.

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December 2 - Parintins - afternoon call -12.00 - tender port

 

Arriving at around noon, the only shorex offered was a visit to see the Boi Bumba show. This is a miniature Rio carnival. The excursion was mustering in the Viennese Lounge at 1.45, but we went ashore on the tender prior to this time.

 

This show was held in an auditorium adjacent to where the tender dropped off the passengers, walking through a phalanx of little stalls selling a variety of items. The Boi Bumba is famous all over the Amazon, and the show is put on in a huge stadium in the centre of the town which accommodates the estimated 40,000 annually which come here in June. The show was an extravaganza of dancing, costumes and music. Anyone seeing this would not need to go to Rio!

 

After the end of the performance; which was put on especially for SS, and presumably for any visiting ship, we went for a ride on one of the cyclos, this seats two people, with the cyclist sitting behind. We went for a trip round the town seeing the auditorium where the June show is held, which seems vast. Not far away is a huge warehouse type building in which were props, "flats", and the wiring for the big figures which must be on wheels.

 

This little trip lasted just under an hour, and we were taken back to the quayside to get the tender back to the ship, sailing at 18.00.

 

December 3 - Alter do Chao.

 

This was a sad day as it was the last port of call for the cruise, and many of us were sorry to see the muddy waters we had got so used to seeing, disappear. This was because we were now in the tributary - Rio Tapajos. This too was a tender port. We arrived at 7.00am and tendering began at 8.00 am. This is within the administrative district of Santarem, and we were fortunate we had not arrived on a weekend, as it is then packed with visitors from there. It is situated on the right bank of the Tapajos River and is only 33 kilometers from Santarem.

 

The tender dropped us at a small jetty at the edge of the beach from where we walked up to the roadway passing a few sellers on our way up. We were following Mr Fudge's advice from his post of last year, not to go to the first beach we came to, but to walk further along. At the first crossroads we turned left into the Main Street and walked for about half a mile, where Ilha do Amor came into view, beyond another beach. As this is on the Rio Tapajos, it is clear water. We told Clive - Shore Excursions Manager of the risk of sting rays, of which he was not aware and he subsequently checked with the agent, who confirmed that this was the case, and therefor Clive had a warning put in the Chronicles. Whilst most of the intended swimmers had water shoes, it was still possible to get an injury on the ankle, and not many swam, but merely paddled. Unfortunately this port of call was short and we sailed early afternoon. Many people went for long walks along the beach and we were fortunate that the river level was low and you could walk over to Ilha do Amor. The Captain said that the Amazon River levels were three meters below last year and we picked up an inference, that at times he was concerned about the depth of the water below the ship. Overall those that went ashore thoroughly enjoyed this port and apparently it was also a good shopping opportunity.

 

As we sailed back down the Tapajos towards the main Amazon channel, we eventually arrived at the meeting of the waters just outside Santarem. This meant that we had a second chance to see this phenomenon which had alluded us during our earlier call in Santarem. Anyone making a call at Alter do Chao should bear this in mind when considering booking a shore trip in Santarem to see the rivers meet, because you get a free show on your cruise ship as she sails in this area.

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First, for Duct Tape, Clive is delighted to be asked to stay on board for the whole of the World cruise.

 

A few words about the senior staff. The captain was Luigi, the Hotel Director was Martin ( who is well liked by his juniors and extremely good company). Vicky was the cruise director, this being her second contract as such, having previously been an entertainer on board. She is American, vivacious and trying hard to get to grips with the role, succeeding admirably, though a little nervous at first. Her one woman show "Ship Happens" which is semi autobiographical was very well received, and was both comedic and musical. The F & B, Nicolas, a delightful Frenchman, was far more visible than any other with whom we have sailed. Sergio was the RM and managed his team very well. Ana and Simona were the international hostesses, the former comes to the end of her contract on the 14th, after that ?????? Wes, we passed on your kind comments to Ana, and she remembers Ida and you very well and hopes all is okay with you both.

 

The entertainers all disembarked on the 7th as we did. However the three male singers are going to join the Shadow in January 2016. Interestingly after disembarkation, we heard the six of them obtained an average score of 9.47 out of 10 in their ratings from the passenger comment forms from the cruise before ours. Needless to say they were highly delighted.

 

We felt that the standard of food and service was as high as any previously, as also was the entertainment. As mentioned before the new menus have gone down very well, and despite the "always available" not appearing on the menu, they are in fact still obtainable at dinner. This encompasses the room service menu, and the Pool Grill dinner menu.

 

October Kat, sorry we did not have the chance to talk to you whilst queuing for immigration at Barbados, and do hope that you have enjoyed your extended stay here, and you have a safe journey home. Hopefully we can meet again on another cruise.

 

We learned that two Norwegians among a group who did an SS tour on disembarkation day, had their luggage stolen at Barbados airport. The party had been dropped at the airport as usual, well in advance of check-in, and everyone's luggage was assembled together adjacent to the road. The Norwegians then noticed their two cases had gone missing and were left distraught - they were flying out yesterday for a week to Miami before going back home to Stavanger!! This shows how vigilant one needs to be.

 

On a lighter note, we have always commented on how soft SS toilet paper is -feeling more like cotton wool, and it is thus to handle the special toilet system. At the beginning of the cruise it was as remembered, but half way through, it changed to a two sided variant. One side was smooth and the reverse had knobbly bits which could act as an exfoliant, should you pick the wrong side!! Luckily before disembarking it had changed back - maybe something special for the Amazon!!

 

A brief word about the climate. The Caribbean ports had temperatures in the low 80's as expected, however it was a little early for consistent and stable weather, hence the rain we experienced in St George's Grenada. Our Amazon visit came at the tail end of the dry season, but humidity was reportedly typically as over 80%. Daytime highs seemed to peak at around 100F in Manaus, and one deck steward told us that on pool deck on the 30th November it was over 110F! Even at 11.30pm it was still 90F!

 

Passengers participating in jungle treks were disappointed with the amount of visible flora and fauna due to the heat, and only one of the famous water lilies had survived. Unlike on Mr Fudge's trip last year, Sir and Madame had no problems with biting insects. This could have been due to the very high standard of protection adopted, though others were dressed in shorts and T-shirt, and didn't report adverse effects. Better safe and sorry, however we too relaxed the cover up regime in Santarem and from Manaus onwards, but we still used 50% deet repellant. Some people had suggested that the overnights in Manaus would result in "lock down" with the shutting of the Pool Grill after dark, and balconies being out of bounds. A few days before reaching Manaus we therefore asked the F & B - Nicolas whether this would be the case. Apparently a local evironmental adviser said that this would not be necessary due to the time of the year, being the dry season. It therefore seems you either have no restrictions, but sightings of animals etc would be less than in the earlier part of the year, but the insects would be more prevalent.

 

The last three days were at sea, and once out into the Atlantic, the wind blew and the rains came, and quite a few people were ill. We were more fortunate as we neared the Caribbean islands.

 

In conclusion this proved to be a highly memorable cruise for all the reasons described previously, and also because of the general bonhomie amongst the passengers. If the reports rekindled happy memories amongst CC members, and serves as an aid to those considering such a cruise, then the considerable time and effort will have been worthwhile.

 

Kindest regards

Master Echo

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Thank you Master Echo for your wonderfully detailed reports. They did bring back a lot of happy memories.

 

F & B Nicolas is a breath of fresh air on board. He was on our South Pacific adventure earlier this year, and along with HD Flavio, HR Michele, Bar Manager Norbert, and Captain Zanello, they were responsible for making it the best and happiest cruise ever!

 

Safe trip home and happy holidays.

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