New to DSLR photography - What to bring on cruise?

[peety3]

I hate carrying a lot of equipment around. The 50-300 does a great job, but I have found that for a lot of spontaneous shots, I use my 18-250 lens ... a lot.

Ha! One man's <this> is another's <that> seems to be the moral of the story. I'm happy in Alaska with a 16-35/4 on camera 1 from left shoulder, 100-400 on camera 2 from right shoulder, and camera 3 with 1.4x on 600/4 on monopod. Admittedly, I can't run with that rig, but I don't run with my cameras regardless.

 

Take what you want to take. Keep notes on what you used and how/when, so you can refine it for next time. Perhaps put a small piece of masking tape on each item before you go; remove the tape if/when you use something, and look at what still has tape when you're headed home. Many of us would suggest to avoid excessive duplication of focal lengths (10-22, 16-35, 24-70, 35-105: pick two perhaps), but (given that my wife also shoots) I do also believe in backups, which matters most at the wide end (you can always crop to get a tighter shot, but you can't always shoot a panorama just to rebuild a wide perspective).

[Heronymous]

Thanks for the suggestions, those BlackRapid straps look incredibly comfortable! Not sure it's in the budget at the moment though with everything else I just purchased. I saw some similar straps for around $15, pretty generic... Does anyone have any experience with those? Or am I asking for trouble with them?

 

Part of me is thinking I'm either going to walk around with the lowepro backpack I just purchased, or a nice expensive strap for the camera... Not sure it makes sense to walk around with both. What do you guys typically do?

 

I figure on the ship I can just use a camera strap, and off the ship the lowepro 302, though that bag does seem very large and bulky for my small set... So I might downgrade it with something I'd be comfortable lugging around the various ports.

 

Speaking of which... What do you typically do if you're planning on doing some sight seeing which eventually involves water activities such as a beach? Do you dare leave it on the beach while you swim? I kind of feel like I need to chose between taking it with me and keeping it on me at all times forgoing any water activities, or leaving it on the ship if I plan to do a water activity on an excursion.

 

Sorry for all of the questions... I'm weeks away from the cruise and wedding and want to be prepared.

Thanks again for everyone's input!

 

 

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[Oviedo32765]

I use an Op/Tech USA Utility Strap. It's $27.95 at B&H.

 

I put one on my Nikon D7000 years ago and it is still going strong. When I first put it on I was hesitent about the Uni Loop connection to the camera, but mine shows no signs of ware today. And the way it connects leaves the tripod mount free for use which I really like.

 

The over the shoulder design distributes the weight and is very comfortable. After you purchase this strap, you can toss the Nikon-supplied strap away.

 

Check out the video from Op/Tech.

 

I too use a backpack when I go out sightseeing. I put the camera with utility strap on first and then the backpack. That way you can access the backpack without taking the camera off.

[pierces]

Recently I have taken to wearing my camera on the BlackRapid and carrying the second body with a complimentary alternate lens mounted (whatever the day calls for), a third lens and batteries in a belt-pack.

 

I shoot with Sony mirrorless, so you could translate second body and lens to additional lens and batteries.

 

I gave up on my sling bag because the waist pack is so much easier on a tour where you are on and off a coach or navigating in crowded shops.

 

The BlackRapid connector unscrews easily to switch to a ball-head mounted on a monopod or tripod or simply unclips if you want more freedom of movement. I use a wrist strap on one of the original strap lugs to prevent "oops" moments when the camera is off the strap.

 

Water activities...I've got nothing. If I were to take part, I wouild likely just get a waterproof P&S and only take it on those days. Unless you have a non-participant to watch your stuff, you're pretty likely to donate your gear to the local economy.

 

There's my 2¢..

 

Dave

[gpb11]

Water activities...I've got nothing. If I were to take part, I wouild likely just get a waterproof P&S and only take it on those days. Unless you have a non-participant to watch your stuff, you're pretty likely to donate your gear to the local economy.

 

Yep, this is why I bought an Olympus TG4. I just carry it while at the beach and in the water, works nicely for snorkling too. Decent enough quality considering the folded lens as is typical of waterproof cameras. Plus it supports RAW format and has its own GPS for geotagging. Plus it's fun for the shipboard pool, water slides, etc.

 

For my other valuables (money/ID/passport) at a port beach I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4CEH48

Edited July 25, 2016 by gpb11

[peety3]

Thanks for the suggestions, those BlackRapid straps look incredibly comfortable! Not sure it's in the budget at the moment though with everything else I just purchased. I saw some similar straps for around $15, pretty generic... Does anyone have any experience with those? Or am I asking for trouble with them?

 

Part of me is thinking I'm either going to walk around with the lowepro backpack I just purchased, or a nice expensive strap for the camera... Not sure it makes sense to walk around with both. What do you guys typically do?

 

I figure on the ship I can just use a camera strap, and off the ship the lowepro 302, though that bag does seem very large and bulky for my small set... So I might downgrade it with something I'd be comfortable lugging around the various ports.

I know a semi-pro photographer who has >20 bags and likes none of them. I've struggled to find a solution that works, and feel that I'm almost "done" with the solutions I need (one more piece, but haven't figured out what it'll be exactly). Here's how it all breaks down for me:

Backpacks are great for carrying stuff but terrible for using stuff. If my wife is going along, I can bend over at the waist and she can retrieve something for me, but otherwise it's got to come off my back and go on the ground. That said, I have a big backpack (room for two cameras, two longer lenses, and four shorter lenses) and it works extremely well for me.

Sling bags never worked for me, and my wife dropped a lens while using a sling bag.

I absolutely love my Shootsac. It's a neoprene (think "wetsuit") messenger bag with flap, with room for three lenses on the front and three pockets for batteries, memory cards, etc. on the back. It's perhaps better if I only take three lenses total (one on camera, two in Shootsac) as lens changes are easier/safer, but a four-lens adventure is no big deal either.

My vest/belt system gets used less and less, but I find it indispensable for "event" shooting and cruising Alaska. It's a Lowepro vest and belt that attach together, with a BlackRapid Double strap that gets snapped into the vest so it stays in place. On the belt, I add a utility pouch that holds batteries, memory cards, etc., plus 0-3 of the LowePro LensExchange 100AW or 200AW cases that are fantastic for swapping lenses: they open up to twice their closed size, making it easy to drop the "old" lens into one part of the case then grabbing the "new" lens out of the other part, and easily zipping closed for stability, regardless of which part of the case that lens is presently in. Here's the system "in action": On my right hip/backside is the utility pouch, and "on" my left leg is a 200AW lens exchange case with a 24-70 in it.

The one thing I'm missing is a simple transport case for one camera with lens. I'm thinking of a LowePro Toploader Pro 70 AWII. Now that I have the Shootsac, I'm comfortable tossing that into the back of the car as-is, but wish I had a suitable way to "toss" the camera and first-alarm lens in the car such that it won't roll around (or won't get banged up if it does roll around).

[gpb11]

Backpacks are great for carrying stuff but terrible for using stuff. If my wife is going along, I can bend over at the waist and she can retrieve something for me, but otherwise it's got to come off my back and go on the ground.

 

Not to be too much the contrarian, but I must respectfully challenge this generalization. Certainly many backpacks are made this way, but to dissuade someone from the entire category because of some units design is a disservice.

 

Some backpack bags have side-access, allowing you to sling the bag under your arm and access your gear. Think Tank Photo Trifecta and Photo Sport BP 200 AW II are examples of this style.

 

Others open from the backpanel, letting you access your stuff without putting the bag down. Loosen the hipbelt slightlly, shrug off the shoulder straps and spin it around to the side or front, and let the bag hang towards the horizontal. The hipbelt keeps it from flopping down, and you have your stuff right there at hand. Examples of this style include the Burton Zoom 26L and many of the F-stop Gear bags (I have the Guru V2).

 

Mindshift Gear also has a "rotation180" series of bags where the camera bag is integrated to the hipbelt and slides around front for access without removing the main bag / shoulder straps.

Edited July 25, 2016 by gpb11

[Heronymous]

Yep, this is why I bought an Olympus TG4. I just carry it while at the beach and in the water, works nicely for snorkling too. Decent enough quality considering the folded lens as is typical of waterproof cameras. Plus it supports RAW format and has its own GPS for geotagging. Plus it's fun for the shipboard pool, water slides, etc.

 

For my other valuables (money/ID/passport) at a port beach I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4CEH48

 

I do have the TG4 as well, I guess I'll need to do some research on all the ports and make decisions on which ones will make better ports for DSLR photography vs the TG4 and just opt not to swim at the more scenic ports... though it would be nice to get some good DSLR pics on the beach too..

-Keith

[gpb11]

If you haven't done so, do some testing with the TG4. I've been quite pleased with its output even at 8x10. Certainly enough for a midsize photo book, but you're not going to make poster size prints and examine them up close.

 

It's no DSLR by any means, but when you have good light the 16MP sensor does a good job given all the compromises built into the camera to make it rugged and waterproof. As to noise and DR, since it has RAW you have more flexibility to process out noise and recover DR than you might with a JPEG only camera.

Edited July 26, 2016 by gpb11

[GUT2407]

I've debated for years (as seen on much older posts of mine on here) whether to try a DSLR or stick with a point and shoot. I finally made the jump and have been reading a few different books and viewing YouTube videos to get myself up to speed. I'm curious about a few things and would love some input from those of you who are much more familiar with photography on cruise ships and their Caribbean destinations.

 

1. I've read contradicting statements on whether to use a filter when on a beach or outdoors on a cruise ship to protect the lens. I've read "you're crazy to not use a filter" and "you should never use a filter as it degrades the quality of the picture". Any opinions on this matter?

 

2. I'm wondering what equipment should I bring to accommodate a lot of scenic shots and 'selfie' portraits? We're getting married on the ship and have a photo package, but the photographer can only take pictures on the ship and only at a few ports since we can only divide our time amongst a few different days on our 14 day cruise so I expect to take quite a few pics myself as well.

 

My current equipment list I'm bringing:

 

Nikon d7200 DSLR w/ a few fast SD cards (will back up to laptop on ship)

Spare battery

18-55mm lens

55-300mm lens

Zomei PL-Z888 tripod

 

I'm wondering if there's anything else I'm not thinking of that I may need? I don't have a speedlite, not sure if it's worth getting since the camera has a built in flash... But considering it due to battery life concerns.

 

And I will be back to thank everyone for their replies ;)

-Keith

 

 

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Flash??

[GUT2407]

Polarising filter.

[Heronymous]

Flash??

 

I didn't purchase a flash, I'm still trying to decide the best route to go there. If I buy one right now, it needs to be something that will get me by if/when I need it.. but it definitely won't be a $400 speedlight, definitely out of the budget right now. Any suggestions?

-Keith

[peety3]

I didn't purchase a flash, I'm still trying to decide the best route to go there. If I buy one right now, it needs to be something that will get me by if/when I need it.. but it definitely won't be a $400 speedlight, definitely out of the budget right now. Any suggestions?

-Keith

IMHO, any speedlight you buy needs to be able to bounce light off the ceiling. That requires a tiltable head for landscape-oriented (horizontal) shots, and a swivelable head for portrait-oriented (vertical) shots. Buying anything less than that is IMHO a waste of money*. Think about it: the last time you had a conversation with someone who was shining a light in your eyes from a position very close to their eyes was the police officer who stopped you for speeding on your way home from work a few years ago. That conversation wasn't fun with that light in your eyes, and what the officer saw was unnaturally lit, very flat and two-dimensional, and didn't illuminate the surroundings anywhere near as good as your face. If it didn't look good, why take a picture that way? You want the light to be aimed up at a white ceiling, or perhaps sideways to a neutral wall, etc., if you can, as the light will come from a more believable and natural angle (downwards, as if the overhead lights were on, or sideways, as if the light was streaming in through a window). Granted, if you have neither to work with and no other portable substitutes, you'd just aim the flash forward and live with it, but don't set yourself up for flat, boring pictures 100% of the flashed time.

 

* If a particular speedlite can be remotely triggered, either by RF or optical/infrared signals, it may regain sufficient value down the road to become somewhat useful, but I'd find it to be sufficiently useless for the primary purpose of being your on-camera external light source that I wouldn't buy it.

[Heronymous]

IMHO, any speedlight you buy needs to be able to bounce light off the ceiling. That requires a tiltable head for landscape-oriented (horizontal) shots, and a swivelable head for portrait-oriented (vertical) shots. Buying anything less than that is IMHO a waste of money*. Think about it: the last time you had a conversation with someone who was shining a light in your eyes from a position very close to their eyes was the police officer who stopped you for speeding on your way home from work a few years ago. That conversation wasn't fun with that light in your eyes, and what the officer saw was unnaturally lit, very flat and two-dimensional, and didn't illuminate the surroundings anywhere near as good as your face. If it didn't look good, why take a picture that way? You want the light to be aimed up at a white ceiling, or perhaps sideways to a neutral wall, etc., if you can, as the light will come from a more believable and natural angle (downwards, as if the overhead lights were on, or sideways, as if the light was streaming in through a window). Granted, if you have neither to work with and no other portable substitutes, you'd just aim the flash forward and live with it, but don't set yourself up for flat, boring pictures 100% of the flashed time.

 

* If a particular speedlite can be remotely triggered, either by RF or optical/infrared signals, it may regain sufficient value down the road to become somewhat useful, but I'd find it to be sufficiently useless for the primary purpose of being your on-camera external light source that I wouldn't buy it.

 

Thanks, that's very helpful information. I was thinking of getting the Photoolex M800N off of Amazon, it goes for $99 at the moment and I may be able to get it for $50. If it weren't for the Upsell I just sprang for, I was actually going to get the real deal Nikon but the upsell won.

[GUT2407]

When you do get a flash, do yourself a favour and get a dedicated one, (doesn't have to be Nikon) as a newbie it will make life easier.

[xlxo]

I love the flexilibility of shooting with slow zoom lenses like the 18-200 or 18-300 Nikon. However the flash shadow from an extended lenses bothers me. External speed lights like the SB800, SB900 and now SB5000 overcome these limitations.

 

The more expensive speed lights offer....

• more power for bounce lighting
  
• quicker recycles
  
• ability to add external power packs for even quicker recycles
  
• motorized mirrors to reshape the light pattern for your zoom lens
  
• iTTL where the flash will adjust strength depending on what the camera body sensor tells it.
  
• thermal shutoff to prevent overheating if you get carried away. The SB5000 includes a fan to minimize overheating.
  
• more durable housing.... my SB800 fell off a 4 foot table.... popped batteries back in and it works like new.
  

 

 

[YOUTUBE]BULCpZSiM4o[/YOUTUBE]

 

 

[peety3]

When you do get a flash, do yourself a favour and get a dedicated one, (doesn't have to be Nikon) as a newbie it will make life easier.

Hey Gut, I think you need to explain what you mean by "dedicated", as I can't speak for others, but I don't know what you mean. (Since Canon, Nikon, and the other brands pretty much all have their own pin arrangement aside from the master 'FIRE NOW' pin and their own language for signaling, any flash that can do TTL/automatic on brand X is most certainly dedicated to brand X.)

[peety3]

The more expensive speed lights offer....

• iTTL where the flash will adjust strength depending on what the camera body sensor tells it.
  

The in-camera pop-up flash offers iTTL already. Having worked with flash/strobe heavily in the past three years, it's not that hard to nail the flash exposure if the camera knows ISO/aperture/distance. The iTTL/E-TTL pre-flash probably just checks for the presence of a near-field "obstruction" that's at risk of getting washed out.

[GUT2407]

Hey Gut, I think you need to explain what you mean by "dedicated", as I can't speak for others, but I don't know what you mean. (Since Canon, Nikon, and the other brands pretty much all have their own pin arrangement aside from the master 'FIRE NOW' pin and their own language for signaling, any flash that can do TTL/automatic on brand X is most certainly dedicated to brand X.)

 

Exactly if it can do TTL if whatever variety that brand uses its dedicated.

 

Some only gave the FIRE NOW pin and thus work with any camera in manual mode.

 

For an advanced photographer the manual flashes are often the pick, for someone new to photography the TTL/Dedicated are a best starting point.

[Heronymous]

Exactly if it can do TTL if whatever variety that brand uses its dedicated.

 

 

 

Some only gave the FIRE NOW pin and thus work with any camera in manual mode.

 

 

 

For an advanced photographer the manual flashes are often the pick, for someone new to photography the TTL/Dedicated are a best starting point.

 

 

 

Thanks,

I wasn't sure what was meant by "dedicated" but I did pull the trigger on the speed light I mentioned and did get an awesome deal on it, so hopefully for a beginner like me it will work. Now to hit Costco for some AA batteries :)

 

 

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[Heronymous]

I hate carrying a lot of equipment around. The 50-300 does a great job, but I have found that for a lot of spontaneous shots, I use my 18-250 lens ... a lot.

 

 

 

The 55-300 usually stays in the cabin and is great for shots from the balcony e.g. Alaska, or river cruises.

 

 

 

Mary,

What brand is your 18-250? Sigma? I'm wondering if I'm better off roaming off the ship with an 18-250 rather than carrying both of those other lenses I mentioned.

 

 

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[peety3]

Now to hit Costco for some AA batteries :)

Hopefully I'm not too late to the party in saying this: I highly recommend the Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables. It's one of the rechargeable chemistries that can deliver power to the flash faster than alkaline non-rechargeables, and the chemistry is fairly excellent at holding a charge while sitting on the shelf. More expensive than alkaline in the very beginning, but well worth the startup cost for them and a charger once you get going (and better for the environment).

[GUT2407]

Hopefully I'm not too late to the party in saying this: I highly recommend the Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables. It's one of the rechargeable chemistries that can deliver power to the flash faster than alkaline non-rechargeables, and the chemistry is fairly excellent at holding a charge while sitting on the shelf. More expensive than alkaline in the very beginning, but well worth the startup cost for them and a charger once you get going (and better for the environment).

 

Yep a good battery

[xlxo]

Another vote for Eneloops... Even better with SD-8a or SD-9.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/570528-REG/Nikon_4952_SD_9_Battery_Pack.html

 

The only thing better are Quantum Turbo's for those flash models that accept external batteries...

 

[YOUTUBE]lzvzjJQm_kU[/YOUTUBE]

 

[xlxo]

If you have lots of AA's.... seriously consider a Maha 8 cell charger for convenience....

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/883786-REG/Powerex_MH_C801D_8_Cell_1_Hour_Charger.html