Review: Viking Christmas Markets, Budapest to Nuremburg, Dec 9-16

[PRH]

Review of Viking Christmas Cruise—Budapest to Nuremburg, Dec9-16, 2017

 

Pre-trip: We arrivedin Budapest three days before embarkation.

 

 

Booked at the Hotel Sofitel Chain Bridge. Not only an extremely convenient location(you can see the Viking piers from here—our room faced the Danube) for theChristmas markets, but the breakfast was very complete. Unfortunately, they did not tell you that youhad to order eggs, pancakes, etc. before getting up to see the buffet (despitewaiting for ten minutes before getting up from our table), get your toast,etc. As a result, the first day we werea little frustrated. Service was slowand then had to wait even longer as toast grew cold for the eggs to finallyarrive. But lots of options on thebuffet like Brussel sprouts which I love!!! Viking had desk in the lobby even though it was not the Viking hotel forour cruise. They were helpful withlocations of Christmas markets. We usedthe concierge for restaurants and to obtain Hungarian Parliament tickets (if interested,you might want to reserve before getting to Budapest as they are limited). There is a little convenience store rightaround the corner—we purchased bottled water there and a small bottle of local liqueur. Thereare several ATMs in the area—in bank lobbies. It gets dark around 4 pm so be prepared forthat!

 

 

The best Christmas market was the one at Vorosmarty Square. It is a juried market and the vendors arecertified for all products being produced locally (the committee shows upunannounced to verify). Things like handwoven scarves, lovely handmade ornaments, cheeses, baked goods, and of course,the duty mulled wine and local foods including the chimney cakes sausages andfried potato concoctions of sour cream and cheese (do NOT go for a cholesterolcheck immediately after this trip!). Oneof the vendors there told us they have been voted number 3 among all theChristmas markets. This was the marketwhere interestingly enough, we found most of our purchases over the whole trip! Note that cash in the local currency isexpected. Several shops offered toaccept Euros but the exchange rate was very high. We ate in the markets everyday forlunch. Yum. They tended to open around 10:30 and closearound 8.

 

 

The market in front of St. Stephens was very large. Almost a straight shot from where the Vikingpiers are located. We were surprised bythe number of Russian stands. In theevening, there are light shows on the Cathedral in 3-D. Amazing light show!! There is a countdown on the Cathedral untilthe next one. Better mulled wine in thismarket (we thought) and many food options. The stalls had mostly standard issue stuff but some local too. There is a skating rink in the middle wherekids were quite entertaining as they crashed into the walls, each other and thehuge tree in the middle.

 

 

There is a much smaller market area close to the BudapestEye (enclosed Ferris wheel) with the standard issue stuff. Nothing you can’t find at St. Stephens marketbut the park is lovely. Also small onealong the main drag near the museums.

 

 

We ate at Zeller Bistro our first night. A funky place (the chairs do not match, therewere crazy Christmas decorations, etc.) with lots of young adult locals andexcellent food. The second night, we ateat Rezkaka. Expensive but again,excellent food. There was a great littleGypsy band. A little disappointed withthe hard sell on the wines but food was very good—venison was probably the bestever. We met a couple next to us who hadjust gotten off the Viking Vigl—the restaurant had been recommended to them bythe ship. Almost everyone there was atourist. Try the Palinka (a strongtraditional appertif—loved the plum). Thelast night we went to Szazeve (100 year restaurant and the oldest in Budapest) fortraditional Hungarian food. Food wasgood, service was good—but the band came around hoping for tips. A young couple announced their engagement atthe table near us so locals were also eating there. It was pouring rain when we left but theysaid they could not call a cab because of the rain—cab companies do not answertheir phones when they are busy.

 

 

All these restaurants were in easy walking distance of thehotel. Tip: If you use credit cards, be sure to ask thatcharges be made in local currency rather than US dollars to avoid doublecurrency exchanges.

 

 

We visited the Christmas markets the first afternoon afterarriving. The next morning, we went to CastleHill (took bus 16 up to St. Mattias, buy tickets at the convenience store) andHospital in the Rock. Beautiful, sunnyday but cold and windy. Dress warmly aswind on the hill is intensified! Hospital in the Rock is well worth the time and money. We went into St. Mattias—good thing becauseit was closed to tourists the day of our Viking city tour—the only building onthe tour that you actually visit. We raninto a Viking group there from the Vigl and their local guide was very helpful. The views from Fishermans Bastion arespectacular! We walked all around thehill before taking Bus 16 back down that afternoon—it stops near theSofitel.

 

 

Second day we toured theParliament building (9:00 am English tour—incredible place), wandered aroundthe Christmas markets again, drank wine, ate delicious food and then walked tothe city market. Amazing place withbeautiful produce, etc. Locals filledthe first level (there is a grocery store in the basement) and tourists filledthe upper level filled with vendor stalls—again, lots of Russian stalls. Overwhelming amount of stuff! Lots of places to buy food there and indoors (though not heated),so out of the cold and wind. Well worththe walk if you are able and have the time.

 

 

Embarkation: OnSaturday morning, with rolling luggage in tow, we walked over the to the VikingEgil for boarding. Easy walk and painlessprocedure. We showed up around 10 a.m.,they took our luggage before the gangway and we were invited up to the loungefor late breakfast. Buffet lunch from 11am to 2:45 in the Aquavit. Instead, weimmediately left the ship to do a little last minute walking around on ourown. When we got back around 2pm, ourcabin was ready. The ship offered anhour long walking tour around 2:30 that afternoon but we felt we had seenenough. Wine & cheese tasting at3:00—no explanations. A chance to trythe upcharged wines from the dining room and some cheeses.

 

 

We booked a French Balcony cabin. Very small compared to an ocean cruise butOK. There are plenty of outlets,including USB. The hairdryer is muchbetter than Celebrity—it has several settings for both heat and speed plus itstays on without having to hold the button. There might be a little less than a foot between the wall/window and thebed. There is room under the bed foryour luggage (at least for ours) which is critical as there is no roomotherwise for your luggage to be! Thelocation on the second deck was very convenient to reception and therestaurant. Our room was silent.

 

 

Bathroom: The heatedbathroom floors are a plus in the winter! The bathroom is small but efficient. Not enough room for two people in there atthe same time unless one is in the shower. Amenities included body lotion, body gel, hair shampoo and conditioner(all Freya), nice hand soap, and two little boxes that might have a shower capand shoe shine cloth (didn’t open them). There is a night light in the bathroom but it is so bright, we ended upclosing the door during the night (which also meant that the bathroom got verywarm due to the floor).

 

 

The ship is beautiful. There are plenty of public spaces for smaller conversations or to read,coffee machines making a variety of things from cappuccinos to hotchocolate. Muffins in the morning,cookies in the afternoon (during December, they have lebkucken—addictive!). The lounge on deck 3 is where the bar andAquavit (for lighter buffet at lunch and dinner) are located and where everyonegathers for port talks and entertainment. The dining room is lovely with tables for six to ten people. There is no assigned seating. One seating for dinner at 7 pm. or you can go to the Aquavit.

 

 

The food was excellent to very good. Aquavit was wonderful for lunch. Different soup each day, a sandwich variety,fresh greens for salad and breads—serve yourself. If you have the Silver Package, you can getsparkling water, espressos, sparkling wine, champagne, mixed drinks and betterwine at the bar and around the ship at any time. Basic beer and wine served at lunch anddinner.

 

 

 

There is a walking track on the upper deck (12.75 timesaround equals a mile), along with chairs, etc. but everything (and I meaneverything) is taken down once the ship reached Passau because of the lowbridges on the way to Nuremburg. As itwas winter and quite cold, I only saw people up there a few times. Besides, we were so busy there was littletime!

 

 

More to follow. Please feel free to ask questions. This was our first river cruise so I know we had plenty!

[Keith1010]

Enjoying your review and looking forward to the additional post.

 

We stil have not done a river cruise. Had two booked for this year but both were canceled by the company so still want to do our first river cruise. Nice to get your sense as this was your first river cruise.

 

Keith

[okie dokie smokie]

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[PRH]

Part Two:

Embarkation Day:

Dinner was very good—beef tenderloin and other goodies. We sat at a table for six—met new friendsfrom Chicago area and a couple we met at wine and cheese joined us. They are from NH so close neighbors (we’refrom Maine). During dinner, our positionat the pier was changed as we were leaving first in the morning. There were three Viking ships rafted.

After dinner, the entertainment was two singers from theHungarian Opera. They sang some familiaroperatic tunes followed by some Christmas songs. It was OK. We left a little early as we were tired.

Day Two

Viking offered a “Panoramic Tour of Budapest” which left at 8:00am! Poor souls who flew in the daybefore! We decided to NOT take this tourand remain onboard as the ship also left as soon as the buses pulled out. We wanted to see Budapest from the water(there was no evening cruise as was initially intimated). It was nice being on the ship with very fewpeople. I walked on the walking path,met a couple from England enjoying the sun but tucked up against a wall becauseof the wind. The ship stopped aroundnoon to pick up the bus passengers and then left for Vienna. Turns out St. Matthias church was not openfor tours because of Sunday services so they got out the bus only to walk theFishermens Bastion. For those who had neverbeen to Budapest before (we’ve spent time in the city before this trip), it wasa good overview. For those who had beenbefore—they were sorry they had taken it.

Muster drill was at 2pm that afternoon! Wear your lifejacket and come to theLounge. Not much in the way ofinformation other than we would hear over the PA whatever we needed toknow. Since there are no lifeboats,guess we jump in??

The Hungarian Tea Time at 4 with a variety of sandwiches andpastries in the Lounge. There was a presentationon Mozart and Vienna Coffee Houses which was OK. This was followed by a welcome toast by the Captainand Hotel Manager. Dinner was Chateaubriandand roasted vegetables. Excellent. Not too impressed with desserts which is fineby me. The cheese are lovely.

Day Three: arrival inVienna

We signed up for the “Active Tour” (limited to 20) whichmeant we walked to the U-Bahn with a guide, took the subway into Vienna to theOpera station (about 15 minutes ride) and walked through old Vienna, includinga stop at the horse stables. We steppedinto several churches. We went throughthe St. Stephen’s Christmas Market, St. Michael’s Christmas Market. We were offered a guide to take us back tothe subway to the ship or to stay in town to catch a shuttle around 4pm or 5pmto the ship. We opted to stay in townuntil 4. The shuttles left from the EinsteinCafé not far from the Town Hall Christmas Market. A “gentle” tour was offered which meant youmostly stayed on the bus. The PanoramicTour was a combo of bus and a bit of walking in old Vienna. Glad we did what we did.

The surprise for dessert tonight was Walnut ice cream—absolutelydelish! There were two seatings—one at5:45 for those going into the city for a concert or wine dinner and 7:30 forthose of us staying on the ship.

Day Four: Krems andGottweig Abbey

Trip to the Abbey left at 8:30. We were told there would be 150 steps downbut no steps up. We would be dropped atthe entrance. Unfortunately it was avery cold and windy day spitting snow and my husband convinced me to leave mycoat in the bus (which immediately pulled away as we went inside). After a taste of apricot spritzer and a shortmovie, we were taken outside where our guide took LOTS of time to talk. I was freezing in the wind. We walked through the Abbey grounds—would bespectacular on a warm, sunny day. We were in the first group and we finished the tour last after those who had come later! Thewalk was UP the grand staircase and then down again. Surprise. Then finished in the gift shop. Nice to see but I wouldn’t do it again.

 

 

Back to the ship at noon and departure for Passau via a series of locks. All the railings, furniture had been removedfrom the upper deck because of the low bridges. We then went through the Wachau Valley—spectacular. The Melk Abbey is visible from the Danube. At 3 there was an Austrian Tea Time and gingerbreaddecorating. An optional tour offered: biking on electric bikes through the WachauValley along the vineyards. About 10people did that one.

 

 

 

Special reception for those returning Viking guests withsparkling wine and appetizers.

[2552phxcrzr]

Thanks for writing a review. We are looking at booking a Christmas Market cruise for 2018 and Viking is a contender.

[mimmy52]

I'm enjoying your review and looking forward to more.

[PRH]

Part Three

 

 

Day Five: Passau:

 

 

We docked around 7:30 am—about two hours early. You are docked right at the town so if youwanted to do your own thing, entirely possible. Walking tours began at 9:15 and lasted approximately one and halfhours. Groups were limited to 20people. A gentle option was offered—not surewhat it did. Our tour guide guided usthrough several shortcuts so that we were not walking in the mobs of tourgroups. Passau is a lovely littletown. We stopped at Simon Café formulled wine and a conversation about the various kinds of lebkucken(gingerbread). The one made with honeyis made in the summer and aged in the cellar for 6 months! There was also a demonstration on how to makean Advent wreath with greens and candles—then a browse through their gift shop(surprise). We browsed the Christmasmarket in front of the Cathedral for 45 minutes and got our organ concerttickets from Oliver, PD. Organ concertat noon—largest organ in Europe and amazing sound. We managed to grab seats at the crossing sowe could hear all five organs. It lasteda little over half and hour. It appearsthat Viking and the other several cruise lines docked contribute very largesums of money to the Cathedral because not only were most of the people therefrom a cruise, but organ concerts are not normally offered from Oct untilApril. If you have the chance, it isworth going. Another quick browse of theMarket, the area of confluence of rivers, and along the Danube before returningto the ship.

 

 

We had to be back to the ship by 2 pm or stay in town to catchthe shuttle at 5:30 from Passau to Vilshofen. Not enough time in this lovely little town but staying until 5:30 seemedtoo long in the cold wind. There wasalso an optional Bavarian Beerfest tour (“Octoberfest atmosphere”) which leftat 2:15 and rejoined the ship in Vilshofen around 6pm.

 

 

After dinner, there was Christmas tree decorating whichamounted to decorating your own Christmas ball with a permanent marker and puttingit on the tree. You could also take itwith you if you wished. Then there wasChristmas carol singing.

 

 

Day Six: Regensburg

 

 

Again arrived early into town. The ship pulls into the dock (and then backsout later as this portion of the Danube is blocked by the Stone Bridge) rightin town so you could do your own thing. Thisis a very large town however so be sure to grab a map! Walking tours began at 9:15. Our guide was from Quincy, IL—she met herhusband in graduate school and moved to Germany. She had been a teacher so she was quick to respondto questions and to point things out as this is a medieval city relativelyuntouched by WWII bombing. There wasalso a Jewish Walking tour (included) as this is the home of Schindler ofSchindler’s List and a rich Jewish history. We took the standard tour as the Jewish one was more than two hours longand we had to be back at the ship by 12:45! Just time for a quick peek at two Christmas markets and had to miss thereally nice one on the Palace grounds (open to the public only for Christmasmarket) due to time. There was no shuttleoption offered in Regensburg—a real shame. An optional tour of Microbreweries was offered at 12:45—small samplesonly and one brewery visited. The shipstopped in Kelheim to pick them up around 6pm.

 

 

Disembarkation information at 6:15pm. Interesting that if your flight is later inthe day, you can stay on board until late afternoon—you just have to be out ofyour room by 9 am. You can havebreakfast and lunch on board. Everyone usingViking Air was assigned shuttle buses and time for departure. Otherwise, you must arrange your owntransportation to the airport or wherever else you are going.

 

 

Dinner was “Taste of Germany” with sausages, veiner snitzel,breads, cabbages, etc. There was noordering—you were either served a plate or you could go through thebuffet. Entertainment that night wasLiar’s Club. Funny. However people who had been on other Vikingcruises stated that the words were repeats so they already knew the real answers.

 

 

Day Seven: Nuremburg

 

 

The calendar handed out at the beginning of the trip said wewould arrive in Nuremburg around noon. However we actually arrived around 7am. The ship is located some distance away from the city so transportationis necessary. We took a shuttle intoNuremberg at 9:30 which dropped us off near the Nuremberg History Museum. The Nuremberg Christmas Market is the oldestand one of the largest. We were giventwo hours to wander the Market—after waiting for all the shuttle buses toarrive so the guide could try to tell the whole crowd where and when to meet the shuttles going back tothe ship. Not well organized. And certainly not enough time!

 

 

Included tour began at 1:30. We decided to forego the tour itself and get off the bus near theChristmas market. Everyone had to meetat the Beautiful Fountain (looks like the top of a Cathedral) at 5:30 for busesback to the ship. It began to pour downrain—and I mean pour, around 4:30—about the time the tour folks got to theMarket. As a result, many huddled underawnings, etc. and didn’t get to see much of the Markets at all. Once again we were glad with our choice. After all, the purpose of this cruise was theMarkets! Lots of food options, childrensinging in front of the Cathedral, overwhelming number of vendors and crowds ofpeople. There is also a children’sChristmas market with a small train, Ferris wheel and children’s activitiesalong with food options and of course, toy vendors (Nuremberg’s claim to fameis their toys). We had time to stop intoa few shops and to drink plenty of mulled wine.

 

 

Most of the shuttles arrived on time but the one we wereassigned to came about 15 minutes late. Nice standing in the rain! Oh,well. Upon return to the ship, there wasa Captain’s Cocktail party with sparkling wine and toasts. Then dinner. After dinner, local musicians played from Mozart and Lehar.

 

 

Then back to the room to pack. We had been assigned a 6 am departure for our9 am flight. Bags have to be out half anhour before your departure (no earlier though as the halls are narrow).

 

 

Day Eight: Disembarkation

Morning came early. We put our bags out for collection, ate breakfast (which begins at 3am!) and then boarded the bus at 6 am—it was snowing. About 20 minutes to the airport.

 

 

Checked in and then waited for almost twohours. Our flight was late getting out—deicingtook even more time. We only had an hourand change in Frankfort so getting very anxious about our connection. Frankfort is a huge airport. International flights come into and leave fromTerminal Z. We arrived at Gate A1 which meanswe were parked away from the terminal and had to take a shuttle bus in! Now we were ten minutes from boarding timeand Terminal Z is quite a hike! Myhusband was stopped for a security check, more time! And then practicallyrunning, we arrived at our departure gate as the last passengers wereboarding. As we put our boarding passesthrough, we were stopped (!!) and told our seat assignments had changed. Turns out, we had been upgraded from PremiumEconomy to Business Class upstairs on the 747. Nice!

 

 

Arrived in Boston only to be directed again through intensesecurity (grrrh) with many in line holding purple passports. Then taken aside for luggage inspection. Last laugh but sad, my luggage did not makeit out of Nuremberg! So, no luggage ofmine to be inspected! With the time wespent waiting in Nuremberg, have no idea why my luggage did not make it on theplane to Frankfort. It was delivered twodays later at 3:30 in the morning.

 

 

Bottom line: wereally enjoyed this cruise and Viking. Was a little disappointed with the small failures of communication butotherwise, well organized and the crew was outstanding—especially Angie in thebar. Wish they would post a map of the town for the next day and indicate Christmas Market locations so you could mark your own map and decide your options before rather than after any included tours. Wish there was a pillow selectionas you can only choose between down (I am allergic) and very soft polypillows. I am used to a memory foampillow so it took a while to get some good sleep. We are on a Viking Ocean cruise in March sowill be interesting to compare. If youare on the fence about a Christmas Market cruise—do it! The weather was cold (and we are from Maine) and very windy but most afternoons were sunny and quite comfortable. Dress in layers and wear very comfortable shoes as you will do alot of walking on cobblestones. Merry Christmas!

[2552phxcrzr]

Thanks very much. We are on another Viking river cruise (our first one) in October and some of the general port information will be handy for that as well.