Sitka or Skagway...

[Terre]

Okay, for those of you who have been to both, which do you prefer and why?

 

We are looking at two different ships to Alaska next May, but one goes to Sitka and one goes to Skagway. We are so torn on which one to choose because we like what we've read about both.

 

Which do you prefer and why?

What did you do there; would you do it again?

If you have been on both the Norwegian Star and HAL's Amsterdam, which do you prefer and why?

[Yukon]

Sitka is our favorite Alaska port, because it's relatively unspoiled, in an incredibly beautiful location, and offers the best marine bird/wildlife boat tours anywhere. But Skagway could be better for you IF you're interested in the Gold rush history or railway, want to go glacier dog-sledding or want to rent a car and see an amazing variety of scenery.

 

Murray

[CowPrincess]

I prefer Sitka. It is a jewel of a town. Clean, fresh, lots to do and see close-by. There's a park, a raptor centre, and numerous tours available. I quite honestly dislike Skagway, find it boring unless you like to shop for overpriced cr*p and/or jewellry, or spend a lot on an excursion. The people in Skagway are very nice, but as a place to spend more than 12 hours of my precious vacation? Nope, give me Sitka every time. We will be (hopefully) going to Alaska again next year, and I am specifically taking a ship that will get us to Sitka, so I can share its beauty with my DH.

 

People DO rave about the White Pass & Yukon railway tours out of Skagway. However, our dinner mates this year thought Skagway was "awful" (and I'd not said anything to them about my feelings about Skagway).

 

The friend with whom I used to travel prefers Sitka too, though doesn't dislike Skagway to the same degree I do.

[hncg57c]

I prefer Sitka over Skagway as well. Sitka is a small and beautiful town. It hasn't been overtaken by stores specifically selling to tourists. In Sitka, my family did a 3-hour marine wildlife tour with Captain Davey. It was a wonderful tour and we wished we had more time to do a longer tour.

 

As for Skagway, I thought the main street (Broadway, I think) was filled with a lot of touristy shops. My family and I have absolutely no interest in the majority of these stores. In Skagway, we did the White Pass Railway and Gold Dredging tour. The train ride was nice, but I still liked the tour in Sitka more. Like previously mentioned, Skagway is focused on gold rush history.

[Terre]

Thank you for your comments and opinions...this is what I'm looking for.

[Putterdude]

Skagway has always been my favourite because of its history and connection with the Klondike gold rush and of course the WP&YR.

[agabbymama]

My first cruise to Alaska I chose HAL "old" Noordam with a stop in Sitka and Glacier Bay, I just couldn't resist the Russian History that Sitka had to offer. I was pleasantly surprised that the quaint little town still exists.

But the harbor is too small for ships to dock, so you have to tender.

 

The first thing you see is a large building that looks like a hotel, but it is actually a home for the aged pioneers. It was actually started back in the olden days for the penniless/homeless pioneers and is still in operation today. Then you get off the tender and see Baranhof Hill (where the Russian leader had his castle, and the first U.S. flag was raised over Alaska after our purchase). Then you take a little shuttle bus through town for like $10 to the National Park, the Raptor Center, Museum. Then in the center of town is this small onion-skinned domed building that ends up being the most beautiful little Russion Orthodox Cathedral. Up at the Raptor Center we walked down the hill through the rain forest, seeing totems and a memorial from a massacre. The stillness in the forest is truly amazing. We saw dancers and totem carvers at the museum. It was such a lovely quiet quaint little town.

 

In August '07 I decided to do the HAL Yukon Wilderness Cruisetour to see more of Interior Alaska as well as the Yukon. We left the ship at Skagway and went up the White Pass Yukon RR into the Yukon. Skagway's history centers more around the gold rush days and it is set up to make it feel that way. Gave me more of an amusement park feeling than an actual rural Alaska feeling. And as others have posted all the jewlery stores on main street felt like the Caribbean. I didn't go in one at all, that's not what I went to Alaska to see. We actually enjoyed the walk to the local grocery store seeing a small pizza house and a local cafe (off the main street) more than all the jewlery stores on Main Street. Now we only had 3 hours there, but that was enough for us.

 

If I were to plan a cruise back to Alaska, I would definitely do Sitka again in a heartbeat.

[gsmom893]

I think it depends on what you want to do...I loved the history/Russian influence in Sitka, it's such a great town. Beautiful church, too.

However, Skagway was an absolute blast for our family--we hiked the Chilkoot trail with our then 7 year old DD, she just loved the whole adventure. The hiking trail was so beautiful, the rafting back was a lot of fun. All and all we had a great time...but we were not in Skagway all that long.

[mtwingcpa]

I quite honestly dislike Skagway, find it boring unless you like to shop for overpriced cr*p and/or jewellry, or spend a lot on an excursion.

 

I'm just back from Skagway and sadly I must agree with your comments. With due respect to its history, the CURRENT town of Skagway seems more like a theme park recreation than an "actual" place. Maybe they should put up a sign and call it "Skagway Land!" :-) And not helping matters was the fact that no less than FOUR cruise ships plus the Alaska Ferry were in town simultaneously.

 

Now, that said, I've always wanted to see Skagway and I'm very glad that I did, with no regrets whatsoever. But if I was headed up that way again, I doubt that I would go back.

 

Unfortunately I came down with a bad cold on my trip and had to skip getting off the boat at Sitka, so that destination will wait for another time.

[Putterdude]

After reading the above posts concerning Skagway I thought I would wade back in here. In 1963 I was was an 18 year old crew member on a ship and made 13 visits to Skagway that summer. Yes Skagway has changed over the 48 years since I was there last but so had Juneau and Ketchikan in fact more so than Skagway. I recognized a number of buidings that were there 48 years ago, the wooden sidewalks and even Moe's Frontier Bar (which is another story). When I had been there peviously I would have said that the first 2 blocks of buildings from the Ore Dock were not there as it used to be a real walk from the Railroad Dock into town. Yes now they are falsefronted concrete block buildings but I doubt that codes would have permited all wood frame buildings. Yes there are 30 odd jewelers and the same t-shirt shops that you see in all the other Alaskan towns but unless the state or federal government had stepped in 50 years ago and preserved the townsite as a park, this is what you are going to get. I also suspect that if it had been preserved 50 years ago people today would be saying there is nothing to do in Skagway.

 

I believe that I read that town ordinances require that before a new building is built that it must mirror the old building that was there before. So I think you have to look beyond the jewelers, t-shirt shops and gift shops to see what was and is there. Get on to the side streets look at some of the homes go to the cemetery and see the historic graves, ride the YP&YR at least to the summit and then you will have seen Skagway. Skagway only excuse for exsistance was to service the gold fields of the Yukon and when the gold fields were depleted then it basically became a port city for Whitehorse and the mines of the Yukon. It was never a seat of commerce or government it is what it is a gateway to a vast land and is steeped in history of the north.

I think they have done a good job in trying to preserve the history of the town and it is my favourite town in the Alaska panhandle.

[Terre]

Y'all are making it even more hard for me to decide! Thanks, El for your history of Sitka and Putterdude for your history lesson of Skagway...

Man! What will I choose?!

 

I have a questions about the White Pass Train ride...how fast does the train go, is it possible to get good shots through the windows of the train? I want to bring home a lot of pictures from this cruise.

 

Thanks again so much for everyone's comments and opinions, they are all so welcome!

[flashdog_1]

If you will go to Youtube and search for Skagway train, or white pass etc. you will find some videos of the trip. My daughter watched it and decided she did NOT in any way shape or form want to take the train since it seemed so near the edge! I did a tour in '05 on land up to the Yukon. The stories of the gold rushers will break your heart, and the beauty of the mountains will make you catch your breath. Skagway has a very very small population during the year, since it is mostly a tourist town in summer.

 

Sitka, on the other hand, is a real town with its own culture from centuries ago. Look at the photos. It is pristine. It is also listed in the 1000 Places to See before you Die (North America edition), so you know it is spectacular.

 

I was booked earlier this year on a ship that stopped at Skagway, and I knew I'd be bored there since I'd already done the Yukon excursion. I booked the trip prior to Nov 30 when the fuel supplement went into effect so felt so smart. BUT When I saw a sale for a different cruise line (my favorite) that stopped at Sitka, and the price was within $20 of the first, I snapped it up!

 

That decision also gave me pause to realize that the ship I was on made a big difference to me.

 

NCL's Freestyle does not work well unless you make reservations for the specialty restaurants, I'm sorry to say. The idea is great, but I prefer knowing I'd have a seat every night at a specified time on my favorite cruiseline, Celebrity, which has high quality food, as does Hal. So if food is important to you, make that a part of your decision. Likewise, HAL will have naturalists and lectures, movies etc. about the area, and NCL will not (from what I've read). That is a BIG difference. Think about it.

[Terre]

Thank you, Phyllis. We just spent about 30 minutes looking at You Tube and I'm still trying to figure out how fast the train goes and if you can any great shots from the windows. We've sailed NCL before and the freestyle dining works for us, so that's no problem.

 

I've looked at everyone's pictures - thanks for posting them - and it's just so hard to choose. I think it will probably come down to price for us and with that being said...the Amsterdam with Sitka in the itinerary will probably win. Just looking at the thousands of pictures, Alaska is really beautiful and I don't think we can go wrong with either itinerary.

 

Everyone's been great...thanks again for all of your input, comments and suggestions!

[NancyIL]

I wanted a cruise that went to BOTH Skagway and Sitka - but we didn't do that for our first cruise. (The southbound HAL Veendam does go to both in 2008, and the southbound Ryndam does that itinerary in 2009.) We were on the Coral Princess, and it went to Skagway. That was my favorite port - due to the great 7-hour rail/bus excursion to the Yukon with Chilkoot Charters. When we got back to town, I stopped at the National Park Service Visitor Center to see the movie about the Gold Rush. (I was too late for the walking tour with a park ranger.) I did some shopping at the WP&YR's store, and did buy one cheap t-shirt at another store before getting back on the ship. I would gladly return to Skagway on a future cruise, and I prefer it to Ketchikan.

 

Next month our cruise goes to Sitka, and I booked the 4-hour wildlife cruise with Captain Davey - which I'm really looking forward to.

[Assateague Island Princes]

I would choose Sitka anytime. My all-time favorite town anywhere, not just in Alaska! I wanna live there! Beautiful, serene, picturesque, historical, magnificent - need I say more? Whichever cruise you choose, however, you will fall in love with that state! You won't be able to help yourself! Gorgeous!!!!

[agabbymama]

I would choose Sitka anytime. My all-time favorite town anywhere, not just in Alaska! I wanna live there! Beautiful, serene, picturesque, historical, magnificent - need I say more? Whichever cruise you choose, however, you will fall in love with that state! You won't be able to help yourself! Gorgeous!!!!

 

You need to make a trip to Dawson City Yukon, if you haven't been already. It's the town we wanted to live in. We spent two days there and it was glorious. Like you stepped back in time to the gold rush days and reliving the history. Somewhat like Skagway, but not nearly as touristy. The stores and shops there are what the locals shop at. Not the usual tourist junk. They had some souvenirs and t-shirts and that type of thing of course, but they were the same stores all the locals go to. And Klondike Kates Cafe looked the same as it must have in years of old, but the hamburgers cooked there were to die for. There is your typical saloon too, and the roads are dirt (not paved). They do have cars and electricity, but just a friendly small town without all the hustle bustle you find in other towns. And the Yukon River runs right by it.

 

I'm sure Alaska is full of small towns in beautiful settings. We saw Eagle, Chicken and Tok just to name a few. Far off the beaten path. But just lovely little communities that make someone from the lower 48 realize just how congested and over populated we have become. We drove on The Taylor Highway (I think) for about 150 miles and saw 23 cars all day. It was a gravel road for most of the way, so the bus did kick up some dust, but it was wonderfully pristine and untouched. I wouldn't want to be driving it alone, but I felt safe with the 41 other people on our coach and the 42 on the coach behind us. We had a group of 80 plus the two tour directors and 2 bus drivers, so I felt pretty safe.

[Putterdude]

Sorry I can't tell you how fast the train moves but it is fairly slow and it is very easy to take pictures. You can also step out on the platforms betweent the cars and take pictures. It is an narrow gauge railway and if my memory is correct, it was the only railroad in North America that was built and operated with out any government subsidy or support. It was was owned by a Canadian company for decades but went into bankrupcy when the Skagway/Whitehorse highway was built and they started to truck the ores out to Skagway. In recent times it has been operated strictly as a tourist attraction. Here is their website:

www.whitepassrailroad.com/

[CowPrincess]

Get on to the side streets look at some of the homes go to the cemetery and see the historic graves,

 

We did that on our trip May/08. I still don't think Skagway has as much to offer as Sitka does, and if I had to pick, I'd go back to Sitka again and again. Whereas with Skagway, after the first visit there, I had ZERO desire to spend any more time there.

 

But that's why they make chocolate and vanilla ice cream -- differences in personal taste

[Putterdude]

You need to make a trip to Dawson City Yukon, if you haven't been already. It's the town we wanted to live in. We spent two days there and it was glorious. Like you stepped back in time to the gold rush days and reliving the history. Somewhat like Skagway, but not nearly as touristy. The stores and shops there are what the locals shop at. Not the usual tourist junk. They had some souvenirs and t-shirts and that type of thing of course, but they were the same stores all the locals go to. And Klondike Kates Cafe looked the same as it must have in years of old, but the hamburgers cooked there were to die for. There is your typical saloon too, and the roads are dirt (not paved). They do have cars and electricity, but just a friendly small town without all the hustle bustle you find in other towns. And the Yukon River runs right by it.

 

 

 

I agree Dawson City is a gem however millions of Canadian tax dollars have been spent in preserving and maintaining it and therein lies the difference between it and Skagway where the private sector has done it all (or almost all).

[mtwingcpa]

So I think you have to look beyond the jewelers, t-shirt shops and gift shops to see what was and is there. Get on to the side streets look at some of the homes go to the cemetery and see the historic graves, ride the YP&YR at least to the summit and then you will have seen Skagway.

 

I did walk several blocks north and west of the downtown area, but not all the way to the cemetery. Time did not allow for the train trip, so I ~might~ return some time to do that. And if I was 10 years younger I would love to hike the Chilkoot trail.

 

But as to Skagway itself, I was left with the overall impression that there just isn't much "there" there anymore. I wonder if it might have been better to allow it to gracefully slip away as a ghost town, rather than to become a way-too-accessible tourist trap???

[Yukon]

... We drove on The Taylor Highway (I think) for about 150 miles and saw 23 cars all day. It was a gravel road for most of the way, so the bus did kick up some dust, but it was wonderfully pristine and untouched. I wouldn't want to be driving it alone, but I felt safe with the 41 other people on our coach and the 42 on the coach behind us. We had a group of 80 plus the two tour directors and 2 bus drivers, so I felt pretty safe.

 

It's much better when you're by yourself (or even a very small group) - and it's perfectly safe. :)

 

Murray

[RSWBADGER]

You need to get out of downtown Skagway to see the White Pass, Yukon, Carcross, Emerald Lake, etc. Skagway is the starting point to a great adventure.

[Yukon]

Sorry I can't tell you how fast the train moves but it is fairly slow and it is very easy to take pictures. You can also step out on the platforms between the cars and take pictures. It is an narrow gauge railway and if my memory is correct, it was the only railroad in North America that was built and operated with out any government subsidy or support. It was was owned by a Canadian company for decades but went into bankrupcy when the Skagway/Whitehorse highway was built and they started to truck the ores out to Skagway. In recent times it has been operated strictly as a tourist attraction.

 

It has always (to this day) been owned by either British or Canadian companies, though the US Army took it over during WWII.

 

The top speed on the line is about 25 mph, so taking pictures is really easy - ie http://www.railsnorth.com/steamex.html and http://www.railsnorth.com/carcross-skagway2007.html

 

Murray

[Terre]

Yukon, thanks for the links, they're wonderful!

 

Putterdude, thanks for the info about the train...I was afraid it moved so fast you couldn't get any great shots.

 

And I LOVE cemeteries, whoever mentioned that.

 

Thanks so much everyone!

[Putterdude]

It has always (to this day) been owned by either British or Canadian companies, though the US Army took it over during WWII.

 

The top speed on the line is about 25 mph, so taking pictures is really easy - ie http://www.railsnorth.com/steamex.html and http://www.railsnorth.com/carcross-skagway2007.html

 

Murray

 

I used to know the history of it but as I recall it was built by or at least financed by British company or consortium then for years it was owned by Federal Industries out of Wiinnpeg. I can recall when I had my involvement in Whitehorse in the 70's how much WP&YR was despised because thy were a monopoly that controlled almost everything that came in and out of Whitehorse including groceries and fuel.