Silhouette review, 15th September - fab!

[ClaireP]

Thanks for all the info from fellow CC's, it always helps with my trip and this cruise was no exception. We are regular cruisers, Celebrity our favourite line and we are Elite captains club members.

 

We chose the cruise, which departed 15th September for the itinerary, which is listed below and we had a verandah stateroom, deck 7 mid-ships, with a great stateroom attendant Corazon.

 

Day Date Port

Day 1 Sun, Sep 15 Venice, Italy

Day 2 Mon, Sep 16 Venice, Italy

Day 3 Tue, Sep 17 Koper, Slovenia

Day 4 Wed, Sep 18 Ravenna, Italy

Day 5 Thu, Sep 19 Split, Croatia

Day 6 Fri, Sep 20 Dubrovnik, Croatia

Day 7 Sat, Sep 21 Kotor, Montenegro

Day 8 Sun, Sep 22 At Sea

Day 9 Mon, Sep 23 Valletta, Malta

Day 10 Tue, Sep 24 Catania,Sicily,Italy

Day 11 Wed, Sep 25 Naples, Italy

Day 12 Thu, Sep 26 Rome (Civitavecchia)

 

The cruise experience was as I expect from Celebrity. Where small issues occurred (eg overcharge on bill), these were promptly and efficiently resolved.

 

Fellow passengers, mainly Brits and Americans, lots of aussies/kiwis, some Canadians and a small mix of others (German, Eastern European). Only 2 children sighted, 1 should probably be at school and 1 toddler.

 

Dining - we had select dining, this works for us and food was great. We used the ocean view for breakfast and lunch, always a good selection, hot food with warm plates and good service. We also ate at the Tuscan Grill, surcharge of $35 pp and worth every cent and the Bistro on five, surcharge of $5 pp, also good.

 

Elite perks. We used coffee morning each day, although Mr P could get cappuccino on his drins package. It was held in the Tuscan grill and had a good spread of pastries, fruit and meats etc. we usually had some breakfast in the ocean view but got fruit in the Tuscan grill.

 

On dubrovnik day, we were invited to see sailaway from the helipad, with a free drink. It was a great view and had a great chat with Allen the chief housekeeper. It was lovely to be invited.

 

On malta day, we have been joined by a camera crew who were shooting a promotional film about celebrity. The presenter is Ben Fogle (not necessarily known to all UK passengers but for any others, not much chance, so google him. He is a bit of an explorer and does mad things). He is promoting some of celebrity's Northern European sailings to UK guests, so must be presenting the film. The disruption is intended to be at a minimum but he does seem to have a sizeable entourage, based on the twice we have seen him today

 

Currencies. One thing to note is that the ships currency is $. Most but not all ports are €. It was very sad to see that some fellow passengers had no idea about which currencies were required in which countries and were struggling to accept the fact that sometimes Amex/visa and the $ are not readily acceptable.

 

Ports

Venice. Baggage service at the airport was a little slow and as 6 ships were in port, the arrivals hall was chaos! We located the celebrity rep, they directed us outside the hall and a queue for the bus was there. In case you want to know, they were selling transfers inside the arrivals hall but i don't know how much. Once a bus was ready, they walked us and our luggage over and we boarded. Transfer time was about 20 minutes, we had to collect our bags and hand them to the porter, they had tags if you didn't. Then you walked to the terminal.

 

Queues were not too bad, we were checked in very quickly and as Elite given a ticket to board immediately. The drinks package stall was not busy, so we got a premium non-alcoholic and a soda package and boarded. This was about 12.45 and rooms were available @ 1.15. Quick lunch @the grill bar, which was yummy and no queues! Then off to dump hand luggage and explore.

 

It was out 4th trip to Venice, so we have seen the main sights. We walked to pizzale Roma (the path is out via. The road which is straight ahead at the roundabout and turn right, only about 4 mins walk. The people mover was working and cost is €1 pp.

 

We got a 24 hour vaporetto pass outside the station from a self service ticket machine. €20 each. We boarded the grand canal stopping service and rode right round to St Marks or San Marco as the locals call it. Then we continued to the Lido. At the Lido, we got off and walked across the island, to the beach, stopping to buy some drinks at the Billa supermarket. We then went back to San Marco, walked along the waters edge and walked past. We wandered back thru Venice, via Academie bridge and got the people mover back. Just as we approached the boarding terminal, it started to rain but it held off until we were inside :-)

 

Venice, day 2. The gangway stayed open all night, so you could come and go as you pleased. We were up and about early and we rode the vaporettos some more.

 

We went across to the Guidecca (on 4.1 line) where the Hilton Molins Stucky is. A very different island with some flats and wandered around. We were lucky to see the Royal Princess sail by, she was very close. We walked the length of the island and the caught the vaporetto over to San Marco. We changed lines and rode round to the top of the island, disembarking at Fondamente Nove. We walked thru this district, stopping at BREK restaurant, which is just down from the station. Coffee is very reasonablly priced and Mr P says good. plus it is air-conditioned and they have free wifi and toilets! Then we wandered back to the ship.

 

Summary. love Venice, a great city, especially when the crowds are not too bad and the weather is a little cooler. The sailaway, is stunning and is one of my best to date.

 

Koper. We arrived in the middle of a storm, thunder, lightening and heavy rain. We stayed put, until it cleared up about 10am. We went out and walked around.

The small town is directly in front of the ship. You exit the port gates and turn right, go up some steps and follow the signs into the main square. The town has a church and lovely small streets, very easy to walk around. We had lunch back on board and then went out again, with the sun making a good appearance. We walked to the right and followed the path. You come to the marina and then there is a waterside promenade (quite lengthy!). We walked all the way to the end and back, pausing on one of the benches. A lovely walk in the sun!

 

Summary. A sweet port with lovely streets and promenade to browse and walk.

 

Ravenna, Italy. Arrived at small port area, with very long beaches to the right.

Celebrity offer a shuttle day pass for $14 pp but having read great info on the boards, we decided to experience like a local and get the public bus.

 

We exited the port and on the first road on the right, about 25 yards down is the bus stop for the #90. The bus went at 08.05, 08.37, 09.37 and 10.37 with a gap then. We caught the 08.37 easily and for €2.50 each, took the bus to Ravenna station (the end of the route). Bargain!

 

The return bus stop is to the right of the station, as you look at the town. It is slightly down the street which runs in front of the station. You can get tickets inside the station, €2 each, don't know why the same journey is cheaper. It went back at 11.25, 11.55, 1.25 and 1.55 and later in the day but the timetable was at the stop.

 

The major sights were easily walkable and the main attraction, the mosaics. The first we saw, on the floor at the basilica of st vitale were great but it gets better and mosaics move to the walls and roof!

 

We purchased a ticket for 5 main sights, outside the basilica of st vitale, cost €9.50 each. This took us into the basilica, the mausoleum of Galla placidia, the baptistery of neon and the basilica of saint Apollonare Nuovo and a museum. We did not go into the museum but the others are well worth a visit.

 

We did go into the museum of antiquities, which is on the same site as the basilica of saint vitale but is not included. This cost €6 each and was very interesting, worth a visit and had toilets as well.One last visit was Dante's tomb and then caught the bus back. The driver helped us get the right stop on the way home. Very helpful!

 

In the afternoon, we went for a walk in the port area, which is Porto crosini. We walked on the breakwater, it is 2.7 km long and the locals were cycling along it, to go fishing. We then walked along the beach and paddled in the Adriatic, very pleasant temperature!

 

Summary. Worth the trip to see the mosaics, although the bus transfer and tours to do just that are a bit of a rip off! Beach is good for a walk

 

Split, Croatia. Is a tender port, journey is c15 mins and leaves you right in town. Turn left from port and walk straight, ahead of you is part of the wall from the diocletians palace. If you go thru this entrance, you will see the entrance to the basement, for which there is a charge.

 

You exit into the main square. We decided to view the cathedral, you can buy a combined ticket for 45 kunar. This got you into the

- treasury, this was 1 large room with treasures and relics (including old bones!) from the cathedral

- the cathedral, which was very small, maybe the palaces chapel at one time and was very unusual in design. It had 2 areas for congregants and the altar was between the 2 and could be viewed/used from either side

- the crypt, under the church, no-one down there but interesting shape

- the bell tower, this is not for the feint hearted. You climb large stone steps into the tower, that was not great to someone who doesn't like heights...... But the tower itself, it has a rickety metal staircase, with handrail which hugs the sides. The stairs are attached to the wall but there is no other visible means of support. I chickened out but Mr P went up. He says the first 2 flights were the worst, once you had done these, you could get to the top. The views (I am told were worth it but I will take his word on that!)

- the baptistery, we did not go in

 

We walked the streets within the walls, very narrow and historic. Nice mix of locals and tourists. Plenty of places to stop for a drink and wifi, with well signposted toilets, which were 4 kunar and very clean....

 

There is a local 'green' market outside the walls with fruit,veg and flowers and tourist stalls as well.

 

Summary. Lovely town with a lively feel to it. Easy to navigate round and safe. Sailaway is very pretty and worth taking the time to look at

 

Dubrovnik. We have been twice before and toured the city walls (amazing but they only take kunar, not euro, dollar or credit cards) and the cable car (also good!). Both times, we took a cab for speed and it cost around $10. As we didn't need to rush, as we had all day we strolled to the old town, it is 2/3 jam and half uphill and half downhill. Some of the views are amazing, so we strolled and enjoyed.

 

We walked round the old town, sat and watched the harbour and then strolled back. There are some public toilets to the left of the pile gate, when you are in the old town. Go through the passageway and turn right. Cost is 7 kunar or €1.

 

There is a supermarket by the port, quite reasonable if you need anything.

 

Kotor, Montenegro. Wow what an arrival. The sail in, is worth getting up for as it is described as a cross between Alaska as it is rocky and Norway for its greenness. We went thru the narrowest point at c6.45 and viewed this from deck 15 at the front.

 

When you arrived and anchored, we were in a bay, which could have been a lake, surrounded by hills. It was not easy to see where the old town was.

 

A short tender ride, for which there were both our lifeboats and local tenders in use took you to a dock and town was just across the road. You enter via the sea gate, which has the tourist info office outside it (they did a good map). The streets are lovely and quite tiny, within a small stretch of city walls.

 

The amazing find of the port, was that the city walls become fortifications which extend up the hillside, a considerable distance and you can climb them!

There are 2 entry points, on the left and right of the old town respectively. The cost is €3 and you are advised 20 mins to the church and 45 mins to the top, which is the fort of St. John.

 

Climbing conditions vary but usually have a stone/shale slope and steps, which climb up in a zig zag fashion. Before the church there are 2 enterprising drink sellers with water and soda at reasonable prices.

 

The church is about halfway, small and precariously perched on the hillside. Outside is a gentleman selling hand-made magnets and jewellery. We had a small rest on this point and a drink and them climbed. The distance to the fort is deceptive as the fort extends down the hillside but the view is worth the effort! Coming down was a bit harder, as you had to be sure of your footing and share the path/steps with an increasing number of climbers. My recommendation, do climb the fortifications but do it early in the day!

 

After our climb, we had coffee in a small square. Prices were very reasonable, €1.50 for a cappuccino and had wifi. Then we wandered the streets and walked round the outside of the walls, finding a local market, which seemed plagued by wasps as was the case in Croatia.

 

Just to the left of the port, past the diving club /lido, there is a small man made (small gravel ) beach. It had some sun beds and a roped of swimming area, with a patisserie, bar and mini mart nearby. Although gravelly, seemed a nice spot which had both locals and tourists there

 

Valletta, Malta. Another amazing arrival into the grand harbour. We entered around 6.45. Ancient buildings on all sides, churches and fort st Elmo.

We walked out around 8.45, via a new shopping area at the port, called the waterfront and made our way into town. We wanted to visit the war rooms, so went to locate them (although they don't open until 10). We walked thru the gardens and saw the royal artillery monument, the airforce monument and tritons fountain. All are near to the bus station. We did not get a bus but the station was well laid out, clear stops, ticket office and route map. If we came again, we would definitely consider a trip further afield.

 

We entered the town via the gate by the bus station and walked down republic street. The street felt very European and the shops were a mix of UK brand names, local stores and souvenir stores. We walked the length of republic street, ending at fort st Elmo. We then walked back along merchants street, seeing the central bank of malta and several government buildings.

 

As it was just after 10, we went back to the war rooms which are 200 feet below street level. Tickets cost €10 each and takes the form of a short newsreel about convoys to malta in the war and a guided tour. It was an amazing place, seeing the rooms where the invasion of Sicily was planned and executed from (learnings from this were used for D day) and to see how air attacks were tracked and counter attacks were launched, using 6 ships radars. Fascinating, all whilst deep underground. The guides really bought it to life and gave context - a great insight into how the war impacted malta and maltas role in the war.

 

We then visited the St John co-cathedral, all I can say is wow. Tickets were €6 each and included an audio guide. I have visited many churches and cathedrals but nothing prepared me for the opulence and level of decoration in this one!. Every square inch was decorated in some form or another, including the door arches, ceilings and the floor, with marble tombs for the knights. The museum had many (!) caravaggios, which were amazing.

 

Catania, Sicily. We decided to stay local and walked off the ship. We found the main square, saw the duomo and the elephant monument. We then wandered the adjacent local market, which includes a fish market, with some of the largest fish we have ever seen but lots of fish guts around. Then we walked down to the station, which is out of the port, under the railway viaduct and then turn right. If you stay on that road, you will come to the bus and train station. The train station had automated ticket machines, which also displayed English and you could book the outward and return trips. So very easy to take yourself to Taormina.

 

Naples, Italy. We have been to Naples several times, so we decided to venture to the national museum. The metro station in front of the terminal is closed, so using the map from the tourist info desk at the terminal, we walked up the Toledo metro stop and then rode to museo. It was €1.30 for 90 minutes travel time and this is as many trips as you want.

 

The museum was €8 and the areas which are open, depend on how much money they have to pay the staff, who sit in each area. When we arrived, it looked like quite a lot was going to be closed but we still went in and I am glad we did. The items from Pompeii and Herculaneum was amazing and well worth the entrance fee, particularly as we have visited both sites.

 

Then we walked down Toledo, caught the funicular up to the shopping street and back down again, walking back to the ship.

[TMLAalum]

We sail the Silhouette with the same itinerary as yours next month. Your detailed review is invaluable!

[Compass Rose Monica]

Thanks for the trip report! Venice is my #1 favorite city in Italy.

 

Just an FYI for other readers - there's a Billa, an alimentari (grocery store) in Dorsoduro on the Giudecca canal, west of the Zattere vaporetto stop. There's one near the train station on Stada Nova; and a third one I can't remember.

 

Monica

[sunshine nana]

We will be on the same itinerary next Sept. Thanks for the great review - it helps that you included prices. I have 2 questions: where was the war room in Malta? DH is a WWII buff and we would like to visit it.

2nd question how much rain did you have? What were the temps during the day? Thanks

[Compass Rose Monica]

"On dubrovnik day, we were invited to see sailaway from the helipad, with a free drink."

 

Was this a private invitation or for CCr's?

 

Thanks,

 

Monica

[ClaireP]

Thanks for the trip report! Venice is my #1 favorite city in Italy.

 

Just an FYI for other readers - there's a Billa, an alimentari (grocery store) in Dorsoduro on the Giudecca canal, west of the Zattere vaporetto stop. There's one near the train station on Stada Nova; and a third one I can't remember.

 

Monica

 

Good point, a good one to know as prices as expensive in venice

[ClaireP]

We will be on the same itinerary next Sept. Thanks for the great review - it helps that you included prices. I have 2 questions: where was the war room in Malta? DH is a WWII buff and we would like to visit it.

2nd question how much rain did you have? What were the temps during the day? Thanks

 

The war room is just by the victoria gate and if you google a map, you should be able to get a clear one. It was well signposted and it is well worth it

 

Temps were pleasant 70's to 80's. rain was heavy in Koper but passed over and also in split. The daily forecasts from the captain were very accurate.

[ClaireP]

"On dubrovnik day, we were invited to see sailaway from the helipad, with a free drink."

 

Was this a private invitation or for CCr's?

 

Thanks,

 

Monica

 

To be honest, I am not sure. The invite came from the hotel director but was not directly from captains club either, maybe just lucky! But if you get the chance, well worth it

[Islandgirl4242]

Thanks for taking the time to write your wonderful review!! We'll be on the same itinerary in just a few weeks and you've shared so much useful information and given us some good ideas for ports that we are DIYing!! ~~Judy

[sunshine nana]

Thanks for the info on the war museum and weather!

[Compass Rose Monica]

To be honest, I am not sure. The invite came from the hotel director but was not directly from captains club either, maybe just lucky! But if you get the chance, well worth it

 

I was asking if this was a sail away for CCr's or if it was just a group of people (random, or whatever) that got to participate the sail away.

 

Sounds like a fun thing to do.

 

Monica

[Xfedcruiser]

Thanks for the great review - we are doing the same itinerary Oct. 8. Can you tell us how many formal nights there were, and which nights they were? Thanks in advance.

[TomTN]

I believe our 5-22-13 sailing on the Silhouette was identical or almost identical to yours.

I was pleasantly surprised. It was a wonderful cruise. I had read CC quite a bit before our trip, and didn't really expect it to be as good as it was. Better than our last X cruise.

 

I just wish every cruise could be that good.

[ClaireP]

I was asking if this was a sail away for CCr's or if it was just a group of people (random, or whatever) that got to participate the sail away.

 

Sounds like a fun thing to do.

 

Monica

 

Sorry don't know the answer

[ClaireP]

Thanks for the great review - we are doing the same itinerary Oct. 8. Can you tell us how many formal nights there were, and which nights they were? Thanks in advance.

 

There were 2 formal nights. We didn't partake but I think night 4 and 3rd from end

[Celebrity Cruises]

Thanks for sharing your review ClaireP. Happy to hear that you had a great trip on the Celebrity Silhouette, and we can't wait to see you again!

[Lastdance]

We did the same cruise beginning in May, and absolutely loved every minute of it, even the rain. Montenegro is fantastic for both sails in and out. Also, it is wonderful to do the zig-zag and see the rest of the place. The photos from up high are to die for. Read about Milo and where you can go as he does a GREAT tour. We used him and loved it. The entire trip is awesome!:)

[Sammy1]

Hi Claire,

 

Really enjoyed your review! We'll be doing a very similar itinerary on the Silhouette next May. Do you happen to have any photos available to share?

 

Sam

[Texed]

CP,

Thanks for posting. :)

[Quietquail]

Thanks for taking the time to write up this review. We are taking this cruise next July with our 12 year old grandson and I am avidly looking for as much info as possible.

[ClaireP]

Hi Claire,

 

Really enjoyed your review! We'll be doing a very similar itinerary on the Silhouette next May. Do you happen to have any photos available to share?

 

Sam

 

Sam, will try to post a few this weekend

[storfie]

Thanks Claire for an amazing review, the best I've seen! We are doing almost the same itinerary on the Silh. in November. I've taken lots of notes. Cheers, Annabelle

[cynalan]

Thanks for the great review - we are doing the same itinerary Oct. 8. Can you tell us how many formal nights there were, and which nights they were? Thanks in advance.

 

My wife and I were on the Sep 15th cruise and had a great time. The formal nights were the Koper port of call and the only sea day.

[crazygirl!]

Thanks for your review, especially for the bus details in Ravenna - exactly what I was looking for!

[lexmiller]

We were on the same awesome cruise - I too wrote a review, which has been published in the official review section of Cruise Critic - I hope you too submit your review to this section - it's a STICKY, BTW. This way, it is easier for other fellow cruisers to find it.