Barging Burgundy, a chronicle of our lazy adventures

[TrulyBlonde]

Octoberkat,

I am not touching that with a 10ft barge pole ;-) well written and very appealing. Looking forward to your cruise reviews on Seabourn and Silversea in the future and your ongoing adventures.

[Keith1010]

 

Keith, if you and Anne Marie try barge cruising, hope you will do a review. It certainly would be different that the cruising on Crystal! Have a great time on your Bonny Isles Cruise:)

 

TC, thank you so very much.

 

I am looking to combine a cruise we have on Crystal in 2017 with a few day stay in Paris and then some type of river cruise. A cruise on a barge sounds very interesting and yes I will most definitely review this if we do it.

 

OctoberKat's thread has been very informative and I will definitely followup on this one.

 

Best to you.

 

Keith

[TrulyBlonde]

Keith1010,

I just saw an announcement that Crystal is getting into the river cruise business along with more new builds for ocean cruising in 2018. Quite interesting and now you "Must" try a river cruise :) and I must try a Crystal ocean cruise :)

[OctoberKat]

15th July, Wednesday

 

Continued to barge the canal. Expeditions to Beaune and Maison Joseph Drouhin. More wine- tasting and a cellar tour at the latter and an informative stop at Hotel-Dieu in the former.

 

In the afternoon, we merged onto the River Saone which is gorgeous. River banks are dotted with lovely homes and gardens as well as wheat fields, crops of sunflowers and pastures filled with happily grazing Charolais cattle. Swans, ducks and herons on the river; what great fun to share their environment for a while.

 

Dinner:

Lobster risotto with poached quail's egg

Roasted guinea fowl with sweet corn purée, fondant potato and broad beans

Cheeses

Tart tatin with vanilla ice cream

 

Wines :

Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2012 Drouhin Vaudon

Ruchottes-Chambertin2013 Domaine Magnien

Maroyers-Charmes Chambertin 2008 Domaine Jessiaume

Clos de Tart 2008 Domaine Clos de Tart

Chambertin 2008 Jessiaume

[TrulyBlonde]

OKat...I have anxiously been awaiting more of your trip and was concerned you may be drowning in Burgundy wines;-)).

It really sounds lovely and something I now have been pursuing vigorously on the internet. Thanks again for sharing your special days with us.

[OctoberKat]

Heh, portofinoitaly, more to come, stay tuned. Today was our bookstore day in Paris so I'm exhausted!

[TrulyBlonde]

Heh, portofinoitaly, more to come, stay tuned. Today was our bookstore day in Paris so I'm exhausted!

 

Love bookstores in Paris...a few yrs ago I purchased a collector edition of "The Little Prince" French version for my little Grandson. My daughter minored in French in college and I thought it would be something special to share with her son.

[OctoberKat]

16th July, Thursday

 

In the morning, we left the River Saone and entered the Canal de Bourgone. More sunflowers and wheat fields but, increasingly, industrial sites canal-side but, hey, a nation has to make a living, nu?! More herons and ducks but it seems swans abjure canals.

 

In the afternoon, we motored over to Clos De Vougeot, an aged building and home to the Chevaliers du Tastevin which fascinated the other couple and we liked it well enough. Then we took a short side trip to visit in reverential fashion (ahem) the vines of Romanee-Conti.

 

There followed a truly halcyon dinner as guests of Philippe and Christine Drouhin Laroze at their estate smack in the middle of the village of Gevrey Chambertin. Utterly beautiful and charming with towering trees, gardens, terraces, fields of vines, two-story cellars dug in 1815 ... and an enthusiastic yet well-behaved three-year-old German Shepard dog named Higgins.

 

Dinner:

Gougeres (I've got to learn how to make these!)

Local herb ham snd seasonal salad

Beef Bourguignon with potato gratin ( the secret to this sacred beef dish is to use beef cheeks!)

Cheeses

Dessert pastries

 

The wines:

Chapelle Chambertin 2009

Latrices-Chambertin 2010

Clos de Vougeot 2009

Chambertin Clos de Beze 1999

Musigny 2008

Edited July 22, 2015 by OctoberKat

[jpalbny]

This trip looks absolutely lovely. Thanks for sharing! Love your description of the 6-course wine pairing - for lunch! Sure you would have loved to walk about...after 6 glasses of wine... ;) I think I'd have fallen in the canal after that.

[OctoberKat]

This trip looks absolutely lovely. Thanks for sharing! Love your description of the 6-course wine pairing - for lunch! Sure you would have loved to walk about...after 6 glasses of wine... ;) I think I'd have fallen in the canal after that.

 

Hah, JP! Seriously, and add into the mix wonky knees and stiff hips. Jim, who imbibes not, kept a firm hand on me at all times.

[OctoberKat]

Keith, we thought the itinerary in the Loire aboard Renaissance (also ultra deluxe and comfortable with larger cabins) more delightful than Burgundy which had a fair amount of industrial sites canal side. The Loire countryside is drop-dead lovely and bucolic. Many chateaux to admire from the canal and also to tour.

 

http://www.gobarging.com/renaissance-barge

 

In addition, Keith, the Loire canals cruise is entirely away from highways and roads so it's easy to imagine yourself meandering through the France of centuries ago. The Burgundy barge cruise was rarely out-of-sight of roads and/or high-speed highways. The reason to do the Burgundy barge expedition has entirely to do with the wines of the region and, lord knows, that's reason enough many times over. The bucolic ethos of the Loire Valley is more scenic, peaceful and out-of-time. However, the cuisine aboard Belmond Amaryllis was spectacular!

Edited July 22, 2015 by OctoberKat

[OctoberKat]

17 July, Friday

 

Puttered down the Bourgogne Canal to Dijon, an ancient town/city positively crammed with history over 2500 years or so. Wonderful expedition into the old city center including the twice-weekly market where we shopped for lunch. All manner of goodies including wild mushrooms, foie gras, pate, tomatoes, melons, berries, cheeses ( and more cheese), mustard (!), breads, pastries, honey, flowers -- a riot for the senses. My favorite expedition.

 

Back to the barge for a phenonenal (and enormous) lunch, then lazing around preparing our palates for the extravaganza of wines with dinner.

 

Dinner:

Pan-seared scallops, cauliflower puree, beetroot and crispy pancetta croquant

Filet of Charolais beef with potato dauphinois, confit de tomato, saute mange toutand wild mushrooms and a port jus

Cheeses

Black Forest gateau

 

The Wines (ready?):

Bienvenues-Batard Montrachet 2009 Domaine Bachelet Ramonet

Batard Montrachet 2007 Bachelet Ramonet

Richebour 1996 Domaine Mugneret

Romanee St. Vivant 2001 Domaine Follin Arbelet

La Tache2011 Domaine Romanee-Conti

Romanee Conti 2004 Domaine Romanee-Conti

 

And, we could not sleep late the next day as we were chauffeured back to Paris at 9:15pm.

 

Wonderful, wonderful week.

 

Where shall we barge next year?

[Keith1010]

I have so much enjoyed your posts.

 

So, will you do a barge over a river cruise next year.

 

Again, thank you so much. I have learned so much from your posts.

 

OcgoberKat, best to you.

 

Keith

[OctoberKat]

You're very welcome, Keith, appreciate your feedback.

 

As for our next barge cruise, we are thinking September/October 2016. As for where, that is a conundrum with an embarrassment of choices.

 

This Paris-to-Epernay barge cruise looks quite good. It departs from Paris so no need to be driven three or more hours to the barge; and the return to Paris from Epernay is a short ride. The Nouvelle Etoile is ultra-deluxe class. http://www.gobarging.com/la-nouvelle-etoile-classic-7-itinerary

 

Also, regaling you with Loire Valley barging tidbits awoke a desire to revisit that cruise; it would be a different experience in the fall. http://www.gobarging.com/renaissance-classic-itinerary

Edited July 24, 2015 by OctoberKat

[TrulyBlonde]

Lovely, absolutely lovely. The Loire valley sounds quite appealing, also.

I am still thinking about the Bordeaux barge trip and a side trip out of Paris for Epernay . Spring and Fall is when we travel to Europe and the appropriate barge must work into that schedule and I like your Super Deluxe barges. Thank you again for the report.

[OctoberKat]

The slow pace and attentive service of French barging appeals to us, as does the fabulous cuisine. The class category of barge does matter to us as probably is clear from foregoing posts.

 

In addition, we are in the beginning stages of ocean cruising with a voyage last January aboard Regent Navigator of the Western Caribbean. We've three sea cruises booked: November aboard Silver Whisper Barbados / Amazon / Barbados, March 2016 aboard Seabourn Odyssey LA - Fort Lauderdale via the Panama Canal, and June 2016 aboard Seabourn Quest Copenhagen / Norwegian Fjordes / Copenhagen.

 

I'm not yet hep on river cruising mostly because the vessels and accommodations don't appeal abd i have concerns about the crew-to-passenger ratio.

 

Thanks to all for your encouraging posts.

[OctoberKat]

Yikes! I neglected to note that barging pace is sufficiently slow that it's possible to bike/walk along the tow path and still beat the barge to the next lock or village. The barge supplies bikes and staff are happy to adjust them for riders.

[Zqueeze1]

Oops. Wrong board!! Damned Apple laptop.!

Edited July 25, 2015 by Zqueeze1
Wrng board

[OctoberKat]

Oops. Wrong board!! Damned Apple laptop.!

 

Bummer. And, here I thought I might get to chat peacefully with you.

[Travelcat2]

Oops. Wrong board!! Damned Apple laptop.!

 

You are soooooo funny! When you get lost you get really lost:D

 

Back on point -- after reading this very interesting thread, it is obvious that barge cruising is not for us -- too slow and not enough passengers. Also, although the wines are lovely, there does not appear to be food choices. If rabbit were my only choice of an entrée, I would go hungry!

[OctoberKat]

Should other readers share concerns regarding menu, guests are queried long in advance as to allergies, dislikes and so on. Then, again ahead of meals which could feature items some cultures eschew (e.g., pork, rabbit, etc.). The chef is very accessible and approachable. I pleaded for blue lobster and got it twice.

 

A major reason to barge, in fact, is to revel in cuisine featuring freshest of regional ingredients exquisitely prepared and, sometimes, simply served in their raw form: berries, melons, tomatoes, figs; ok, maybe dressed a bit. The cheeses are nothing short of magnificent and the breads and breakfast pastries are bought fresh from local bakeries at 0'dark-thirty in time for 8am (or later) feasting. In the French countryside, produce, meats, fish, fruit and cheeses are nothing short of heavenly.

 

Fruit and fresh snacks available all day (and night) should one be peckish and, naturally, the coffees are terrific. Returning from an expedition, there is a choice of what we came to call Sarah's Special (cranberry juice, seltzer and freshly-squeezed lime), chilled water, iced sodas, white wine and champagne.

Edited July 25, 2015 by OctoberKat

[TrulyBlonde]

The food and wines all sounded wonderful. It is expected, whether on a small luxury ship or small barge due to kitchen size. When we cruised on SeaDream there was not an extensive dinner menu but all meals very well prepared and 5*+ service. Also, only 80 passengers on board:) and dining al fresco while in St. Barths harbor was a delight and one of my favorite memories.

 

I do have a question re: attire for dinner etc. Are jackets required?

Also, happy to hear about the walking/biking availability because I need and enjoy some form of exercise daily and this could work for a week long cruise. On our ocean cruises we try to visit the gym daily unless our tours conflict with timing.

Safe travels.

[OctoberKat]

Attire is casual casual, not even business casual. During this most recent barge trip, Jim's blazer was seen only once onboard and that was the day we arrived. Attire choices often dictated by weather (very warm) and exuberance of a/c. On last year's barge trip two ladies dressed up and two (including me) did not. It's entirely up to one's individual preferences. The other couple on board this time wore khaki pants, short-sleeved polo shirts and boat shoes all the time. Bring your bathing suit; most barges have a not tub or small pool.

[OctoberKat]

Thanks all for your contributions here. I like to think you were along for the ride.

[OctoberKat]

I am looking forward to reading about your barge trip, Octoberkat. We were on a river cruise from Arles to Paris and enjoyed our stops along the way. Especially Beaune, and many vineyard tours. Don't forget the Montrachet..yummy

 

Portofinoitaly, i just read this post of yours carefully. Would love to learn more about your cruise from Arles (Van Gogh country!) should you wish to share.