Bipolar Chronicles: Tromso to Reykjavik 8/10 - 24/2022 - SS Whisper

[forgap]

No, I don’t have a mood disorder (although my husband says I can get quite cranky).   In 2016 we went on an expedition cruise on Ponant through the Antarctic Peninsula, so one pole is checked off.  On this trip we get to check off another pole, so I can say with complete confidence that I am officially bipolar.

 

This is our first SS cruise after sailing many days on Regent.  We hope to just sink into the SS ways and refrain from comparing SS to Regent, although the lead up to sailing has been maddening.

 

We have an accomplished travel agent and even she has been pulling her hair out.  I understand that Covid has put a wrench in the works but, at this point, it seems like a convenient excuse.   Our first issue involved our return flight which was cancelled by British Air.  I discovered this by chance in May.  No notification from BA or SS.  BA rebooked us for the next day and it took two and a half months for SS to acknowledge it.  SS booked the air but neither SS nor BA are arranging hotel and transfer in London.     Each query to SS takes a week for a response.  Some of the queries are misunderstood so they require a follow up which takes another week.   The hotel issue has been knocking around for eight weeks and is still not settled on the eve of our departure.  I made a hotel reservation (which took 5 minutes) and our TA is battling it out with SS, who should probably battle it out with BA.

 

We plan to adhere to all the Covid protocols.  We are traveling with close friends and three of us have avoided infection for two and a half years.   Even though we were all together in July when my BFF contracted Covid, we and her husband repeatedly tested negative.   Our Covid tests are scheduled for today before our flight tomorrow.  With the time zone differential we will be within the 72 hour window.

 

We are flying out on Lufthansa to Frankfort with a connection to Oslo.  Our pre-cruise hotel is the Raddison Blu in Oslo with a SAS charter flight the next day to Tromso and embarkation on board the Whisper.

 

We are 99% packed, air tags in place and 5 days of clothing in our carryons (just in case).  Finally, as SS virgins, we promise to dress appropriately and behave correctly!    Bon voyage!

 

 

[WesW]

Fair Winds and Following seas soon to be BiPolar Jennifer and BiPolar Georges.

 

Look forward to following along and hoping for negative Covid tests throughout your journey!

[UKCruiseJeff]

24 minutes ago, forgap said:

No, I don’t have a mood disorder (although my husband says I can get quite cranky).   In 2016 we went on an expedition cruise on Ponant through the Antarctic Peninsula, so one pole is checked off.  On this trip we get to check off another pole, so I can say with complete confidence that I am officially bipolar.

 

This is our first SS cruise after sailing many days on Regent.  We hope to just sink into the SS ways and refrain from comparing SS to Regent, although the lead up to sailing has been maddening.

 

We have an accomplished travel agent and even she has been pulling her hair out.  I understand that Covid has put a wrench in the works but, at this point, it seems like a convenient excuse.   Our first issue involved our return flight which was cancelled by British Air.  I discovered this by chance in May.  No notification from BA or SS.  BA rebooked us for the next day and it took two and a half months for SS to acknowledge it.  SS booked the air but neither SS nor BA are arranging hotel and transfer in London.     Each query to SS takes a week for a response.  Some of the queries are misunderstood so they require a follow up which takes another week.   The hotel issue has been knocking around for eight weeks and is still not settled on the eve of our departure.  I made a hotel reservation (which took 5 minutes) and our TA is battling it out with SS, who should probably battle it out with BA.

 

We plan to adhere to all the Covid protocols.  We are traveling with close friends and three of us have avoided infection for two and a half years.   Even though we were all together in July when my BFF contracted Covid, we and her husband repeatedly tested negative.   Our Covid tests are scheduled for today before our flight tomorrow.  With the time zone differential we will be within the 72 hour window.

 

We are flying out on Lufthansa to Frankfort with a connection to Oslo.  Our pre-cruise hotel is the Raddison Blu in Oslo with a SAS charter flight the next day to Tromso and embarkation on board the Whisper.

 

We are 99% packed, air tags in place and 5 days of clothing in our carryons (just in case).  Finally, as SS virgins, we promise to dress appropriately and behave correctly!    Bon voyage!

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Sorry to hear of your issues.

 

If I were you I’d stop trying to deal withy BA through your agent via SS. This quite easy and straightforward.

 

 Under EU legislation (EU 261) BA have rebooked you on the closest available alternative flight automatically without intervention from SS or your agent and owe you (as passenger) a duty of care which includes the reimbursement of your hotel costs, food costs, any transfer costs and for some phone calls etc.   You will also receive decent compensation for the delay depending on the cause of the delay.  All of this is handled directly online through the BA site.  As long as your expenses are reasonable they will reimburse you and pay you your compensation.

 

This might provide you with the information you need.

 

https://europa.eu/youreurope/citizens/travel/passenger-rights/air/index_en.htm

 

And the BA landing page which explains both how to claim your hotel and other costs and how to claim for the your compensation.

 

https://www.britishairways.com/en-gb/information/delayed-or-cancelled-flights/compensation

 

Good luck with your travel and cruise.

 

Jeff

Edited August 7, 2022 by UKCruiseJeff

[forgap]

We are all negative!   OnPoint monitored Covid testing was very easy and the four of us completed the tests during one zoom session.   The official results were emailed to us within minutes.  Although we were all stressed out, it was self imposed due to anxiety about the testing hurdle.  We now have our boarding passes in hand, bags packed, ready to be on our way!  

 

Edited August 8, 2022 by forgap

[Mudhen]

We'll be following along with you, as we board the Whisper on Sept.3rd for the Iceland to NYC adventure. Have a wonderful time and keep us posted!

Best,

L&J

[IngoB]

We will follow you as well on the  Reykjavik - New York part. 

[UKCruiseJeff]

On 8/8/2022 at 8:37 AM, forgap said:

We are all negative!   OnPoint monitored Covid testing was very easy and the four of us completed the tests during one zoom session.   The official results were emailed to us within minutes.  Although we were all stressed out, it was self imposed due to anxiety about the testing hurdle.  We now have our boarding passes in hand, bags packed, ready to be on our way!  

 

 

Just checking that you fully read my post to you upthread.

 

I posted it in the hope that it should provide with how to process some generous reimbursements of your expenses without the stress you appeared to be experiencing - but also hopefully  a couple of thousand unexpected compensation.

 

Was it helpful?

 

[forgap]

13 hours ago, UKCruiseJeff said:

 

Just checking that you fully read my post to you upthread.

 

I posted it in the hope that it should provide with how to process some generous reimbursements of your expenses without the stress you appeared to be experiencing - but also hopefully  a couple of thousand unexpected compensation.

 

Was it helpful?

 

Indeed it was but, because BA cancelled and rebooked months ago, we are outside of the window for hotel costs.  All is good, though, as our travel agency will pick up costs if no one else does.  It’s really not the cost, just the principle.  

[forgap]

We are in Oslo, with a legion of fellow passengers at the airport Raddison Blu.  We all fly out today to Tromso and embarkation.  
 

Our flights over the pond were on time and the service on Lufthansa was some of the best we have experienced.  Navigating the Frankfort airport was a challenge and my best advice is to allow 2 hours for the transit at a minimum.  We landed in concourse B and had to navigate to concourse A.  Sounds simple until we missed the teeny tiny sign directing us to concourse A.  After turning around, navigating with our extensive carry on luggage (worried about lost suitcases so schlepping an emergency clothing supply) to a bus and a winding journey through the bowels of the airport, we arrived to concourse A, passport control, and our gate.  We managed an hour in the very packed business lounge and then off to the gate and another bus ride to our parked plane and more stairs to get onboard.  I don’t know what they do with passengers with physical limitations or the frail elderly.  
 

Our luggage arrived without delay and SS was directly outside of baggage and pointed us to the Raddison Blu.  The only glitch was that we arrived at 1 pm and couldn’t check in until 3pm.  We could have gone into the city but we were exhausted after flying all night, so we, and our other passengers just hung out for hours.  The hotel had coffee service but not much else - no open cafe, no open bar.  SS probably should have had a hospitality area with snacks and beverages but we were really too weary to care.  Check-in at the SS welcome desk was efficient and organized and we felt significantly better after a shower and a rest.  

Edited August 10, 2022 by forgap

[forgap]

We are now on board and exploring the ship.  As we left Tromso, the captain announced that we would miss our first port due to wind and rough seas in favor of docking in Harstad which is a more protected port.   Our sail during the night was rough with a lot of rocking, rolling, and knocking as the stabilizers were deployed to keep us relatively upright.  We decided to skip the hastily arranged tours today in favor of catching the shuttle bus to the town and walking round.  Tonight is a formal night so a leisurely day is in order to get beautified for the evening.  

The boarding procedure yesterday was a bit of a disaster.   As we left the airport, our transfer bus was waiting and we were deposited at the Scandic hotel, which was right next to the Whisper, for registration prior to boarding.  Unfortunately the entire ship was there packed together in the modest ballroom and lobby.  At one point there were light refreshments available but all that was left on the table were crumbs and drinks.  After about a 45 minute wait in the lobby where our medical paperwork was checked and temperature taken, we were told to get in line as it was now moving a bit quicker.  This took about 15 minutes and we were out the door and onto the ship.  
 

Up we went to La Terrazza and we’re promptly turned away as it was packed with passengers waiting for their cabins to be available.  So far the SS experience was a 3/10.  Up we went to the grill.  The downside was the weather - cold rain and wind.  The upside was our waiter who promptly soothed us with drinks, blankets,  and an overhead heater.  He didn’t think we had ordered enough for the table so he brought us extra fried Camembert which we devoured in short order.  We were now at 6/10.  Lunch arrived and it was delicious, cabins were ready, and our experience was now 8/10.  Cocktails on sail away and then dinner.  10/10!  

 

[forgap]

We opted for a docked sea day yesterday as it was cold and rainy with enough wind to make whitecaps in the bay.  We had originally intended to take the shuttle into the town of Harstad but the shuttle bus driver took his lunch break from 12 to 1:30 and we had to be back on board by 4.  
 

We had our formal night last night as well.  It was surprising to see men in the main dining room without ties and some without jackets.  So much for dress code enforcement although, personally, I enjoyed getting dolled up after two and a half years of casual clothes and no makeup.  

 

Dinner was good although one steak was oddly dry.  It looked to be cooked to medium rare but got dryer and dryer as you chewed.  We went on to the theater for the “Blues Brothers, Soul Sisters” show.  What can I say?  It was dreadful, sort of like a Muzak tract of 60’s and 70’s classics.  

 

I’ll leave you with a photo of a spectacular rainbow that appeared during cocktail hour.  I almost had a Marilyn Monroe moment taking the shot but managed to keep my dress down and the iPhone in my hand.

[forgap]

We awoke in Narvik yesterday and opted for the bus and train ride to,the Swedish border.  We had really loved the movie “Atlantic Crossing” about WWII, the Norwegian royal family and their response to the German invaders so we expected a tour rich in history.  Our guide, however, didn’t seem to have an in depth knowledge of history, culture, or nature, but managed to keep up a repetitive chatter for hours.  The countryside made up for the guide which was really beautiful on both sides of the border.  
 

 

Our bus ride took us to a lake (3rd largest in Sweden) surrounded by mountains and an hour long rest stop at a lodge for coffee and a sugar glazed bread.  

 

Then off to the train.  We huddled in a shelter as it was raining on and off.  Our guide told us our car number and our seat numbers but if passengers were sitting in our seats then they had paid for them so just sit anywhere.  That’s where the musical chair game came in.    We finally managed to spread out and find available seats.  Then the train just sat there for an hour.  Rumor had it that there was a boulder on the tracks. It was past lunch time at this point but the train had a snack bar for chips and candy.   The appeal of the train was that it afforded beautiful views of waterfalls and the fjord.  Unfortunately, the train windows were cloudy.  The top half on some of the windows opened so that’s where many maskless passengers hovered over those seated to get a good photo.   We finally got back to the ship at 2.

Lunch was at the pool grill, then a nap, then dinner at La Terrazza which was really good.  Today is a sea day and the ship is off the northern coast of Norway.  We are rocking and rolling a bit but the weather looks good so it will be a day of relaxing and reading.   

[forgap]

This was the lake in Sweden.  I meant to post it in the previous section but my photo disk and my IPad  were not playing together nicely.  

[forgap]

Our cruise is fairly port intensive so I’m struggling to post daily.  Yesterday we were in Andalsnes and we opted for the 7 hour journey to the Atlantic Ocean Road.  We were fortunate to have sunny weather and stunning vistas of the countryside.  The ocean was calm which was a disappointment after seeing pictures of waves crashing over the many bridges that connect the islands.  

Lunch was at a lodge on an inlet where we were served a cream of celery soup garnished with a breaded scallop, seaweed, and herbs.  Delicious!  Then on to a huge portion of salmon.  We skipped dessert after leaving half the salmon on the plate.  

 

Food has been a blur on this sailing.  We have dined mostly in the main restaurant  and La Terrazza.  Nothing had been bad but nothing had been outstandingly good either.  I expected more local cuisine but it seems that the ship is not provisioning along the way. 
 

Today we tendered into Loen which is just outside Olden.  Sailing through the Fjords is such an overwhelmingly beautiful voyage.  We lucked into warm and sunny weather with occasional rain showers.  Our guides yesterday and today remarked how unusual this is after a very rainy and cold spring where the snow only melted in June.  

Our excursion today took us to Briksdal Glacier.  
 

We traveled up the mountain on troll cars which were open air ATV’s.  

 

On arrival, we walked about another mile to the glacier and an alpine lake.   The ride was breathtaking as we were surrounded by rushing glacier water, thundering waterfalls and lush vegetation.  
 

 

Back at the welcome lodge we were offers coffee and a choice of 7 kinds of delicious cake.  The cake with cream and currents was a cake made in heaven!  

We had an early departure and we are now sailing through the fjords on our way to Skjolden. Tonight is our second formal night.  We shall see how our fellow passengers comply or if the code is enforced.  For the record, I really don’t care how people dress but I do care if rules are set and not enforced. 

[WesW]

Terrific photos Jennifer!

 

[forgap]

I am resurrecting this thread after a long absence.  We have been home for 4 days after debarking on the 24th and touring Iceland for five days.  I hope to write about our ports and excursions and then start another thread to review the ship.   This was our first SS cruise after many on Regent.  It may be helpful for those who want a comparison of our experience on each line, although, admittedly, one cruise on one SS ship may not translate to all cruises on all SS ships.   Stay tuned!  

[Lonedaddy]

On 9/4/2022 at 7:48 AM, forgap said:

I am resurrecting this thread after a long absence.  We have been home for 4 days after debarking on the 24th and touring Iceland for five days.  I hope to write about our ports and excursions and then start another thread to review the ship.   This was our first SS cruise after many on Regent.  It may be helpful for those who want a comparison of our experience on each line, although, admittedly, one cruise on one SS ship may not translate to all cruises on all SS ships.   Stay tuned!  

I’d love to hear your comparison as we have sailed regent and are trying SS on a Norway cruise next summer!

[forgap]

On 9/5/2022 at 3:10 PM, Lonedaddy said:

I’d love to hear your comparison as we have sailed regent and are trying SS on a Norway cruise next summer!

Stay tuned, Lonedaddy!   I will write my review next with a comparison to RSSC Navigator which i believe is similar in size and age to Whisper.  

[forgap]

We seem to be over jet lag and the inevitable problems you have to deal with on return from a long vacation.   We seem to be on the wrong side of nature.  One of our AC units wasn't working when we came home.  Our HVAC man came quickly and repaired it.  The problem?  Ants had invaded a crucial part which electrocuted them and shorted out the part.  Ka-ching.  That wasn't the worst of it.  Somehow a squirrel got into our house while we were gone and couldn't find his way out.   In his panic, he chewed up the kitchen window, knocked over stuff in every room, as well as leaving his calling card in every room .  No smells, so I thought we were home free until day 4.   Yes, it was nasty.  

 

So, on to my travelog!  

 

Skjolden, Norway

This was one of my favorite fjords with tall mountains, distant glaciers, and and serene teal colored water.

 

 

 

We opted for the RIB boat tour and we were not disappointed.  It was a long walk from the ship and our escort kept up a brisk pace.  We were the last to arrive at the shop where we signed waivers and suited up to zip around the fjord.   Our driver and guide was a young kiwi now engaged to a Norwegian.   He lives deep in the fjord and by car it would take him hours to get to this gig, so a boat is a necessity if you want to live in this environment.  He seemed really content.   Ah, youth and young love!  He cranked up a great playlist and off we went.  It was thrilling and a tour I highly recommend.  

 

 

The scenery was wonderful with picturesque villages bordering the fjord to plunging waterfalls.   Our guide pointed out a large abandoned building high on the mountain.  It was a former psychiatric hospital with questionable practices.  It is reputed to be haunted (but he said Norwegians love that kind of stuff) and there is a rumor that it is to be transformed into a resort.  Given how remote this area is, I doubt it.  Finally, we had a remarkable sighting of a pair of white-tailed eagles as we made our way back to the dock.  They looked like they had a nest mid mountain.  Our guide said that it was a first for him!

 

By the way I forgot to mention before that our friends went on the kayaking tour in Olden and were very disappointed.  It was a large group of various skill levels all lumped together.   It took them about an hour just to get on their wet gear and get into the kayaks.   Rather than separating folks into experience levels, they all had to stick together as the amateurs got lessons in basic skills.  After about 30 minutes, the guide said their time was up.   I guess this is the way of all excursions that demand fitness.   Folks overestimate their skill level and it really wrecks it for others.  On the other hand, they said that the biking the Romantic Road excursion at this port was great with folks who were experienced bikers and appropriate fitness levels.  

 

PS - I had great pics to include but Cruise Critic is not playing nicely today and the photos won't upload. sorry!

 

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by forgap

[forgap]

I had to switch to my iPad to upload the pics I wanted to include in my previous post.   The computer gremlins are playing with me!  Why would an old iPad cooperate and a brand new MacBook Air wouldn’t?  
 

picturesque village bordering the fjord

 

Glacier view

 

 

Plunging waterfall

 

 

White tailed eagle

 

[forgap]

Bergen, Norway

In any port-intensive cruise you get to point of excursion fatigue.  This was our case in Bergen.  Bergen was our first major city of the trip so we were eager to just walk round, sit in a cafe, and soak up the atmosphere.  
 

The port was a bit of a walk to the town.  No maps were provided, so we just followed our instincts which took about 15 minutes.   The town was bustling and crowded after our relative isolation during the last week.  We first walked through a pedestrian area of old buildings with many cafe’s, shops and art galleries.  Most of the shops were standard tourist fare but some of the galleries had lovely works in them.  

 

We found the main market area adjacent to the harbor along with every visitor to Bergen.  The crowds were intense and we still have a dose of Covid phobia so not really a relaxing stroll.   We ducked into one of the many open air fish restaurants for lunch.   G had a hot smoked salmon salad that he pronounced as the most delicious salad of his life.  I opted for Bergen stew which was delicious but a heart attack in a bowl.  I guess the fish was healthy enough (salmon and cod) but the cream and potatoes not so much.  

 

Fish Market:

 

 

On the walk i happened upon this delight.  It is a repurposed telephone booth that now holds a little free library.  What’s not to love?  

 

 

 

We returned to the ship through the fortress which was adjacent to the port.  It was a prettier walk and cut out about 5 minutes of the trek.  
 

 

Our friend took the sea plane excursion that afternoon.  They took off from the bay and flew north over fjords and glaciers.  He said it was thrilling and well worth the price of admission!  ($$)

 

At the end of a long day, we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset.  

[forgap]

Stavanger, Norway

 

We had a beautiful sail in and a promise of a sunny day.  
 

 

We had the option of a special “Distinctive Voyages” excursion arranged by our travel agent.  It was a food tour of Stavanger but we opted, instead, for a cruise in the Lysefjord with the highlight seeing the iconic pulpit rock.   We are glad that we did this, as it was a stunningly beautiful day.   
 

The tour boat was docked a short walk from our ship.   There was a large enclosed seating area below and an open air deck above where we spent all of our time.  It was windy and cool but we were well prepared with hats, scarves, and gloves so it was a pleasant voyage.   
 

Stavanger is known for its summer houses that are dotted throughout the fjord.  Many are without electricity and running water which makes it more enjoyable according to our naturalist guide.   (She spends her summers in Norway and winters in Antarctica!)   Our tour was light duty for her as she usually leads more arduous hiking tours.   

 

We sailed through the fjord past salmon farms and the experimental fish globe which is being studied as a more environmentally friendly alternative to the traditional ring net system.  
 

 

 

Mid cruise we stopped for coffee and waffles at a seaside cafe which had beautiful views of a suspension bridge.  I loved the use of natural materials and furs.  You had a real sense of place.  
 

 

 

On the way to Pulpit rock we passed goats foraging (and being fed by our boat caption) and looked for other animal life.

 

 

 We were lucky enough to spot a baby seal, too.  
 

 

All the while our guide regaled us with local lore.  There was the story of  the tax evaders fleeing the law and scampered up the sheer face of Vagabond Cove.   This was the post box installed in the hope that they would eventually pay up what they owed!  

 

Then there was Whiskey Falls.   During WWII a German soldier went AWOL and fell in love with a Norwegian woman living on the fjord.  His skill (besides romance) was making whiskey which was prohibited at the time.  So when the law discovered the operation, they dumped the contents of the still into the falls - thus it’s name.  

 

Pulpit Rock was impressive.   It is a formidable hike and we saw people on top.  No guard rails, of course, which just takes my breath away.

 

 

Finally, picturesque town of Stavanger which is filled with shops, cafes, and restaurants.  I liked it better than Bergen. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Great reporting. Thanks!

[forgap]

Lerwick, Shetland Islands, Scotland, U.K.

 

We were looking forward to our excursion to observe sea birds and other wildlife, but it was, unfortunately, cancelled due to wind.   We then opted for a scenic afternoon drive to Northmavine which is on the far northern tip of the island.  A shuttle bus was available to go into town, so we did that in the morning.  

 

 

The town was small with not much activity but there were shops selling very beautiful items made from Shetland wool.  We rounded a corner from the port and happened upon a caravan selling beautiful scarves and other items in traditional designs.  The designer, Mary Macgregor, was inspired by vintage garments in Scottish museums.   She was a fascinating conversationalist, too.  This is her website:  https://www.bakkaknitwear.com

 

The Shetland Landscape consists of barren rolling hills and grazing sheep.

 

 

 Our bus tour was a bit of a snooze until we got to Northmavine.  The end of the line is a lighthouse to warn passing ships of the formidable cliffs if they venture too close.  The landscape was spectacular with howling wind, swooping birds,  and crashing waves.  
 

We were warned not to get too close to the edge which was good advice.  One stumble could end in catastrophe!   

 

 

[forgap]

Torshavn, Faroe Islands

 

We were scheduled to take a hike to Streymoy Sill but cancelled due to rain and bad knees.  We decided to take a bus tour which was a bit of a snooze due to low visibility and the almost indecipherable accent of our guide.  

 

The Faroe Islands are completely different from the Shetland Islands.  Here you have mountains, fjords, waterfalls, and grass roofed buildings.  
 

 

We traversed the island, missing one village because a funeral was taking place and it looked like the entire population was attending, with cars parked on all the steep roads leading to the village.  

 

Mid tour, the rain let up and we descended to a traditional church bordering the fjord.  
 

Our guide gave quite the lecture as we sat in the church pews and ended by singing the national anthem in Faroese.  

We did learn some interesting tidbits, however.  There are three hospitals but major cases are flown to Denmark.  Healthcare is free.  Education is free through the university level.  Often, citizens beat feet in the winter.  The Canary Islands are a popular destination.  The Faroe Islands won an event (soccer?) in the Island Games. That was a new one for me but apparently, the Islands of the world have their own Olympic style games.  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Island_Games)