Almost Live Viking Venus - Iceland’s Majestic Landscapes - August 7-19, 2024

[OneSixtyToOne]

3 hours ago, deec said:

great information and photos...I hope there is a lecture on Iphone photography...I know it can do so much more than point and shoot! 

 

3 hours ago, millybess said:

I agree!  Both @uktog and @OneSixtyToOne have been so helpful in the area of iphone photography.  I'm still struggling to be as good as they are.  

Some basics I remember from the presentation. 

Almost always shoot in landscape mode, portrait is for portraits.

 

Video has 4K resolution. Often it will give you a better picture. Use it and then frame capture for a still photo.

 

Your flash is practically worthless, turn it off.

 

You can activate your camera from the Lock Screen so it’s always ready. Anyone can do this with anyone’s camera. Richard says he plays tricks on people when they leave their phone at the restaurant table and leave for a break. He’ll take goofy pictures with their camera which they discover later.

 

They volume buttons act as a shutter button so you don’t need to touch the screen. You can shoot with one hand.

 

There is a built in timer to get those selfies just right. 
 

There is a burst mode. Use it for action or wildlife photography.

 

When you zoom, you loose resolution. Anything past a certain factor is digital zoom, which really looses data. It’s better to get a shot with the lenses then crop and blow up the picture up later.

 

You can control the focus and expose by tapping the screen and then dragging up and down for exposure. You can also turn off auto focus and auto exposure to allow more control.

 

There is a down arrow marker on the top of the screen that reveals all sorts of options

 

Go into options and turn on grid lines. It will give you a level indicator as well as  split the screen up so you can use the law of thirds to compose your shot. Never shoot your main object dead center or have a horizon dead center. Use the points of the intersecting grid lines to help compose the shot.

Use other objects to frame your shot.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited August 25 by OneSixtyToOne

[deec]

those were great pointers...I had never thought of using Burst for wildlife!  I bet it might also work to still flowers when the wind is blowing.  I have also been amazed how I can edit my photos afterwards.

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 9 - “Return of the Vikings”

 

 

Today we arrived at Faroe Islands. To my surprise, I went out on our balcony and saw our sister ship, Viking Saturn, entering the harbor. She departed Bergen the same day we left Reykjavik, and will become sailing the southern Iceland route. The new Viking invasion of the Faroe Islands hasp commenced.

 

Today we have two tours scheduled. The morning tour is to the Island of Vágar and the afternoon tour is the included Faroe Islands Vistas tour. We have scheduled the last included tour of the day so we will have time to do our own walking tour of Tórshavn and shop for souvenirs with the Danish Krones that we have leftover from a 2019 cruise to Copenhagen. 

 

The Faroe Islands is an island group consisting of 18 major islands. In recent years most of the islands have been connected with a series of under sea tunnels and bridges. The newest tunnel has the first undersea roundabout in the world and features artwork that resembles a jellyfish. It is now the most visited attraction in the islands. Unfortunately, today we are heading to a different island and will not see it.

 

https://visitfaroeislands.com/en/plan-your-stay/transport/world-first-under-sea-roundabout

 

The island of Vágar is the western most island and is home to the only airport. Due to the modern infrastructure on the island, getting there is very easy. Our tour guide was very informative and our scenic hour drive through fjords and hillsides to our first stop was enriching. 

 

The western most point is rustic Gasadalur Village. Getting there required navigating a long one lane tunnel through a mountain. I have no idea how drivers navigate these roads but somehow we managed to get to the picturesque village. There we stopped for delicious cake, coffee, and a bathroom break. 

 

 

 

We then took a short hike down the road to Mulafossur waterfall. The view from the lookout point was spectacular. It was another blustery day and at times the wind lifted the falling water in all directions, including straight up. It was a remarkable sight to behold.

 

 

 

We continued our adventure by returning along the same road, with great views of the fjord and fish farms below. Our tour guide pointed out the numerous farms on the hillsides and told us about how her family owns an automated dairy farm. They have automated feeders and milking machines. She recounted that her husband once had to remotely fix some issues with the farm when they were on vacation in the Canary Islands. Later I commented that a tour of her farm would be interesting and she told me they host school groups all the time. 

 

 

 

Our next stop was at Sandavágur Church, a colorful red roofed church that was built in 1917, though the site has ruins that date from the Middle Ages. In the church there is a rune stone that is said to be from the 13th century. 

 

 

 

Outside the church is a monument commemorating a local legend. Tradition says that two witches lived by the lake of Fjallavatn. One of them was old and partly paralysed. One day that witch laid her red gown out in the sunshine. A man from Sandavágur came by on his horse. He saw the gown, took it, and rode away. The old witch cried for help and the other one came and started chasing the thief. She caught him and grabbed the gown. The gown broke and the man on the horse continued with one sleeve. Now they were close to the village and the church was in sight. Hence the witch had no more power and had to return. But the sleeve that the man got was so huge that it was cut into four peaces and was used as altar cloth in the four churches on Vágar.

 

 

 

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch and then we were off to explore Tórshavn. The port shuttle dropped us off at a small anchorage filled with quaint boats that made a great photo op. 

 

 

Across the anchorage is a series of buildings and the oldest neighborhood in the city. Remarkably this is where the government is housed. The red buildings are all government offices. 

 

 

 

 

Ministry of Finance

 

After we wondered around the old town, we headed for the shopping area to unload our krones. 

 

We found a small bookstore that sold puffin Christmas ornaments. We collect ornaments from all our travels and fill the tree with them. It a found way to remember all of our adventures. DW also located a puffin coffee mug that’s now her favorite morning beverage container. With a few Faroe coins remaining we told the surprised clerk to keep the change. Krones gone. Mission accomplished.

 

 

Back on the ship we stashed our loot and headed out for our included excursion. We found this tour ok but it overlapped some of the same roads we drove on this morning. It did however take the old mountain road giving us some great views of the fjords and highlands. Our tour guide was adequate but our morning guide was much more informative and in-depth. I’m so glad we took the morning tour.  It added to our afternoon experience.

 

This was described as their summer beach:

 

Near the end of the tour, the sun finally emerged and enhanced our overlook view of the two Viking ships in the harbor. 

 

No trivia tonight. It’s a barbecue night at the pool and line dancing. We’ll pass.

 

The resident historian gave a lecture on the Bayeux Tapestry and will give a walking tour of the ship tomorrow, as we have another sea day. Our sail away offered a great photo op with the Saturn in the background.

Edited August 25 by OneSixtyToOne

[BluebonnetTexan]

So glad to see that you successfully visited the Faroe Islands. Seems like most posts I see related to this port are misses. Looks like a very interesting stop. Thanks for chronicling your trip. 

[SantaFe1]

1 hour ago, OneSixtyToOne said:

Today we arrived at Faroe Islands.

Oh, I want to like this three times! It is so often missed due to weather.  Originally, I think, they had it on the British Isles Explorer cruise, which  we did in May, but they took it off due to it so often being missed.  

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 10 - “A Whale of a Time”

 

Today is a sea day and also another time change. This time we were well aware of the schedule changes and opted for a late breakfast at Mamsen’s.  It doesn’t get any better than their waffles topped with fresh fruit. 

 

After another round of noon trivia (we finished 2nd by one point) we headed to the Explorers’ Lounge where cruise photographer Richard Lovelock was conducting a wildlife watch on the outside deck. He used the Quitevox which enabled us to listen to the commentary while sitting in warm comfy chairs that could endure the Spanish Inquisition. (Python fans will get the reference)

 

The watch was from 1-3 and Richard talked for almost 2 hours about all sorts of interesting things related to his wildlife watching experiences. Finally, near the end of the watch, the call of “Thar she blows” was heard. Two spouts were spotted off the starboard side. Richard explained that this usually occurs before a deep dive so we probably would see them any more. Since we saw our fair share of whales and dolphins on our Chilean fjord cruise last October, this was not a big disappointment. We really enjoyed Richard commentary. He is a masterful storyteller with a great delivery and high energy that keeps you thoroughly entertained.

 

 

 

Later that evening we attended Richard’s lecture on “The Origin of Whales.” I learned so much information during this lecture that I feel like I earned college credit in Cetaceans 101. Here are some highlights that I can remember.

 

Cetaceans are generally classified in two groups toothed and baleen filter feeders. He show this chart where the toothed are on the right and the baleen on the left. 
 

 

Whales do not breath-in before diving, they exhale. In fact they have specialize muscle and cartilage that allow them to almost totally eliminate all air in their lungs before diving. They do this to prevent getting the bends. Instead of taking on air and holding it in their lungs, they have a very efficient type of hemoglobin that retains much more oxygen than other mammals. They oxygenate their blood before diving. This also causes whale meat to look very dark. 

 

Whales have a breathing flap that is normally closed. Therefore they must be awake to breathe. To accomplish this, whales and seabirds (who fly constantly) employ unihemispheric slow-wave sleep, where only half of their brain sleeps at a time. He showed a picture of a pod of sperm whales sleeping. They will float vertically. Very strange looking.

 

https://us.whales.org/whales-dolphins/how-do-whales-and-dolphins-sleep/

 

Baleen whales have two blowholes while toothed whales have one. The blowholes are nostrils that have evolved over time and migrated to the back of their heads. They also have evolved so their respiratory system is totally independent of their digestive system. None of the water they swallow has a path to their lungs. But what about the second nostril in toothed whales? It turns out toothed whales hunt with sonar and it was modified to be used in echolocation. There is a large pocket of liquid in their head, most prominent in the Sperm Whale, that they push air at. This amplifies the wave and sends out a signal. The specialized second nostril is used to receive the sound wave after it bounces off the target. This ability is so accurate that they can identify the insides of prey. The Orcas use this to find the specific species of salmon they prefer to eat. Amazing stuff!

Richard has all the pictures he took from this and other cruises on his website. Have a look.

 

Tomorrow we arrive in Norway, entering the fjords in the early morning hours.

 

 

Edited August 26 by OneSixtyToOne

[deec]

I bet he will one day join an Expedition team or already has!  When we were in Antarctica we had a fantastic naturalist who specialized in whales.  I think the naturalist onboard add so much to a cruise when the cruise is nature/wildlife focused!  We had a great couple from the Orkney Islands on the Jupiter a few years ago.

HAPPY WHALE will also track the whales you see around the world if you are lucky enough to photograph their tail.

[OneSixtyToOne]

46 minutes ago, deec said:

I bet he will one day join an Expedition team or already has!  When we were in Antarctica we had a fantastic naturalist who specialized in whales.  I think the naturalist onboard add so much to a cruise when the cruise is nature/wildlife focused!  We had a great couple from the Orkney Islands on the Jupiter a few years ago.

HAPPY WHALE will also track the whales you see around the world if you are lucky enough to photograph their tail.

Yes, Richard showed us a screen shot on Happy Whale of one of his whales traversing the Atlantic.

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 11 - “Seven Sisters and a Suitor”

 

Today we arrived in Geiranger, Norway. Awaking at around 5 AM, we found ourselves deep within Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With partly sunny skies, it was a spectacular view, with the sunrise adding color to what has been mostly a gray sky.

 

 

 

Our port side cabin had a view of the Seven Sisters Waterfall on our sail-in. We will be getting up close to this spectacular site on this afternoon’s tour. 

 

On approach we saw another ship using the docking facilities, Cunard’s Queen Anne. Therefore, this will be a tender port, the one and only on this cruise.

 

 

 

Our morning tour is the included Eagle’s Bend Overlook & Panoramic Drive. It stops at two observation points above the fjord and then winds its way up a mountain road, climbing above the tree line to a glacier lake. Low hanging clouds in the fjord were blown quickly by the wind. At the 2nd stop we were at cloud level and the was an eerie effect of seeing clouds moving towards us, totally engulfing us, and moving on, leaving only a lingering wisp of white in its wake. The views were awe inspiring.

 

 

 

 

 

 

By the time we reached the high point of our tour, the skies were completely grey. Rain is predicted for this afternoon. We stopped at a restaurant for a break and some souvenir shopping. We’ve entered troll country.

 

 

 

The ride back down the mountain offered spectacular views. 

 

 

On the way back to the ship some people asked to be let off at the Norwegian Fjord Center. This center is at the top of the Geiranger waterfall walk. Exiting here allows you to walk back to town and the dock by taking the downhill path along the scenic waterfall.  If we hadn’t had an afternoon excursion and were pressed for time, we would have exited here, as it seems like the smart plan to walk downhill.

 

After a quick lunch and some tendering, we headed to our afternoon excursion, a Taste of Norway. Contrary to what the name implies, this tour is not a foodie tour. We took this tour because it’s a boat ride up the fjord for a close encounter with the spectacular Seven Sisters and Suitor waterfalls. On the way back you are given a small sample of local cheeses and cured meats along with a flight of beer from the local brewery. The tour boat departs right next to the tender dock. While waiting we took some photos of the town and then the forecasted rain began. 

 

 

 

There are many ways to tour the fjord. Tours are offered by RIB, kayak, and boat. Today we are glad we chose an enclosed tour boat, as the skies opened and it started pouring rain. The boat spent about 30 minutes at the main attractions of this tour, the waterfalls. The Seven Sisters is so named because several waterfall cascade down the cliffs and merge together. We went on deck in the downpour to capture the view. 

 

 

After viewing the Seven Sisters we crossed to the other side to view The Suitor. This massive waterfall is directly opposite the Seven Sisters and is said to be their Suitor. 

 

 

 

On the return we enjoyed a fleet of local beers ranging from light to dark, the light Pilsner being my favorite. The bite size cheese and meats were nothing to write home about.

 

Back onboard we had dinner in the World Cafe, which gave us panoramic views of the sail away through this magnificent fjord. It also allowed the occasional visit to the outdoor terrace to snap photos of our last view of one of the most spectacular sights on earth. 

 

 

After dinner our trivia team assembled and we won our second contest. Mimosas for all as our waiter included himself in our victory toast. 

Tomorrow we arrive in the Art Nouveau city of Ålesund.

 

 

Edited August 27 by OneSixtyToOne

[janetcbl]

The walk through town and up the wooden stairway to the Norwegian Fjord Center is not too difficult. The restaurant at 

the Center is fine for lunch. The museum is fascinating,  and on our walk down the stairway we got to witness the marriage proposal of two of our fellow Viking passengers! Avery memorable afternoon! Don’t miss the sail in and sail out….the scenery is breathtaking!

 

[zzookiemookiw]

Gorgeous photos!! Thank you for sharing!

[SteelCity Cruiser]

Breathtaking scenery, and despite clouds and rain you captured some marvelous photos of your time there!

 

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 12 - “You call this New Art?”

 

Today we arrived in Ålesund, Norway. Our only scheduled tour is this morning’s included Art Nouveau Walking Tour. The city was destroyed in 1904 by a fire. A favorite vacation spot of the German Kaiser, he personally funded much of the reconstruction. Rebuilding was done in the prevailing Art Nouveau, or “New Art” style of architecture of the time. 

 

The ship docked right in the heart of town making this our easiest excursion to date. We assembled on the dock and walked a few short blocks to our first stop, the parish church of Ålesund.  The church is so close to the ship, we heard the PA announcements being made on deck.

 

Although the church looks very old, it is not. The original church was damaged in the 1904 fire and rebuilt. The first stone of the current church was laid in 1906 by King Haakon. Most churches face east for a variety of cultural and theological reasons. However this church was rebuilt facing west. Why? To block the bitterly cold prevailing winds when entering. 

 

 

There is a lovely garden outside.

 

 

 

We now continued our tour towards the old, reconstructed section of town. The Art Nouveau movement in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries was a reaction to the Industrial Revolution’s mass produced aesthetic . The concept was to return to nature, so you’ll see flowing lines, decorative pieces of flora and fauna, and intricate patterns. The pinnacle of this is found in Barcelona in the works of Antonio Gaudi, where almost no straight lines exist. The buildings of Ålesund are of a more subdued nature, but is in sharp contrast to the gothic and neoclassical style that preceded it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This yellow building was used in WWII as Gestapo headquarters. Our tour guide said many resistance fighters were tortured inside.

 

Only Real Americans can eat here.

 

The small harbor area is picturesque.

 

 

 

Our tour concluded a little abruptly in the business district when a band started playing for a local street fair. The Quietvox was no match for Norwegian Death Metal.

 

 

 

Instead of returning to the ship we departed the tour to do some shopping. After buying the obligatory Christmas ornament, we found a small ice cream stand that served blood orange gelato, a flavor I hadn’t had since we were in Florence. Very tasty.

 

 

High five to all the newsies out there.

 

 

The ship docked very close by.

 

Back on board I took the opportunity to use the thermal spa, as most people were still out and about. I actually fell asleep on the heated stone lounger. 

 

This evening’s lecture was on a topic I never head of before, “Searching for the Northwest Passage to the Pacific and Ending up in Bergen.” In 1619 the king of Denmark and Norway decided he would beat the other European powers to the Far East by finding the Northwest Passage. He sent Jens Munk on an expedition that resulted in only three survivors. Somehow Munk and two men made it back to Bergen, where he became a folk hero. 

https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/jens-munk-north-west-passage-expedition-1619-20

 

This evening we lost another tiebreaker in Trivia. As we approach the end of our cruise, our chances of a threepeat are diminishing rapidly. 

 

Tomorrow we take a train ride in Flåm.

[Planning to cruise]

18 hours ago, janetcbl said:

The walk through town and up the wooden stairway to the Norwegian Fjord Center is not too difficult. The restaurant at 

the Center is fine for lunch. The museum is fascinating,  and on our walk down the stairway we got to witness the marriage proposal of two of our fellow Viking passengers! Avery memorable afternoon! Don’t miss the sail in and sail out….the scenery is breathtaking!

 

I was proposed to in Norway with wonderful scenery.  Not on a cruise in those days.  Still married to the same chap over 50 years later .......    

[CurlerRob]

2 hours ago, OneSixtyToOne said:

Day 12 - “You call this New Art?”

 

Today we arrived in Ålesund, Norway. Our only scheduled tour is this morning’s included Art Nouveau Walking Tour. The city was destroyed in 1904 by a fire. A favorite vacation spot of the German Kaiser, he personally funded much of the reconstruction. Rebuilding was done in the prevailing Art Nouveau, or “New Art” style of architecture of the time. 

 

The ship docked right in the heart of town making this our easiest excursion to date. We assembled on the dock and walked a few short blocks to our first stop, the parish church of Ålesund.  The church is so close to the ship, we heard the PA announcements being made on deck.

 

Although the church looks very old, it is not. The original church was damaged in the 1904 fire and rebuilt. The first stone of the current church was laid in 1906 by King Haakon. Most churches face east for a variety of cultural and theological reasons. However this church was rebuilt facing west. Why? To block the bitterly cold prevailing winds when entering. 

 

 

There is a lovely garden outside.

 

 

 

We now continued our tour towards the old, reconstructed section of town. The Art Nouveau movement in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries was a reaction to the Industrial Revolution’s mass produced aesthetic . The concept was to return to nature, so you’ll see flowing lines, decorative pieces of flora and fauna, and intricate patterns. The pinnacle of this is found in Barcelona in the works of Antonio Gaudi, where almost no straight lines exist. The buildings of Ålesund are of a more subdued nature, but is in sharp contrast to the gothic and neoclassical style that preceded it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This yellow building was used in WWII as Gestapo headquarters. Our tour guide said many resistance fighters were tortured inside.

 

Only Real Americans can eat here.

 

The small harbor area is picturesque.

 

 

 

Our tour concluded a little abruptly in the business district when a band started playing for a local street fair. The Quietvox was no match for Norwegian Death Metal.

 

 

 

Instead of returning to the ship we departed the tour to do some shopping. After buying the obligatory Christmas ornament, we found a small ice cream stand that served blood orange gelato, a flavor I hadn’t had since we were in Florence. Very tasty.

 

 

High five to all the newsies out there.

 

 

The ship docked very close by.

 

Back on board I took the opportunity to use the thermal spa, as most people were still out and about. I actually fell asleep on the heated stone lounger. 

 

This evening’s lecture was on a topic I never head of before, “Searching for the Northwest Passage to the Pacific and Ending up in Bergen.” In 1619 the king of Denmark and Norway decided he would beat the other European powers to the Far East by finding the Northwest Passage. He sent Jens Munk on an expedition that resulted in only three survivors. Somehow Munk and two men made it back to Bergen, where he became a folk hero. 

https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/jens-munk-north-west-passage-expedition-1619-20

 

This evening we lost another tiebreaker in Trivia. As we approach the end of our cruise, our chances of a threepeat are diminishing rapidly. 

 

Tomorrow we take a train ride in Flåm.

 

Excellent pictures of the town. If you ever go back, consider the HoHo - it will take you to the scenic viewpoint on Mt. Aksla.  You will love the Flamsbana! 🍺🥌

 

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 13 - “Black and White and Red All Over” 

 

Today we arrived in Flåm. The charming village lies eight hours inland through Aurlandsfjord and we’ve been sailing into it most of the night. I can see how cruising Norway during the summer solstice would be a big advantage for photographers.  

 

Today’s forecast is heavy rain most of the day, but I did manage a few gorgeous photos when the sun peaked through.  

 

 

 

 

This morning we took the included tour which consisted of a stop at a lookout on top of the fjord followed by stops at a small town and two churches. Today turned out to be the local annual triathlon. Hundreds of participants had just swam in the fjord and were now climbing to their next destination on their mountain bikes. This made for a slow ascent by bus as the road is single lane in most places, interrupted only by the occasional blue M sign, indicating a meeting place where a small turnout exists. The hairpin turns were especially slow and challenging as bicyclists filled the rainy roadway. At the top I managed  a couple of shots as the sun attempted to peak through for a brief moment. You might even spot a faint rainbow.

 

 

 

We then descended back down to the local village where a small river meets the fjord. Here we caught a glimpse of a few people fly fishing for trout.

 

 

Along the way the tour guide pointed out something we would hear a few times over the next couple of days: why the old churches are black, why houses are white, and why barns are red. The oldest structures like stave churches were originally covered in pitch to protect them from the rain. After paint was developed, the cheapest color was red because it was made with abundant iron pigments and the blood of slaughtered animals. Therefore all of the barns and outbuildings are traditionally painted red. Eventually white paint was developed but since it required expensive imported zinc to make, it was a considered a status symbol. If you wanted to show off your wealth and prestige, you painted your house white. 

 

 

 

 

 

Many of the churches from this era have interiors that resemble a ship’s hull, mostly because the local builders were shipwrights. 

 

This afternoon excursion’s was a ride on the world famous Flåm Railway. Being a train buff this was one of the highlights of our cruise. It did not disappoint, although the rain did put a damper on picture taking. The scenery was spectacular.

 

 

 

 

 

The zig zag on the side of the mountain is the original construction work road. We are climbing to the top of that waterfall where you can see the snow shed covering the track at the upper left.

 

At the top we visited the local hotel for cake and coffee. We had a hour to kill and it was too rainy to go outside but I did get a picture from the back porch. I also found a pool table in the lounge and played a bit while talking to some backpackers from the Netherlands.

 

 

Back aboard the ship we attended tonight’s lecture about the Hanseatic League, an extensive maritime network of trading ports that covered the Baltic and Northern Europe from the 13th through the 15th centuries. This background information definitely enhanced our upcoming tour of Bergen. The league was what we would call today a cartel. Each port city specialized in a commodity. The league regulated shipping, controlled supply, and set prices. Bergen was the supplier of dried fish, Bruges supplied textiles, London provided wool, ports in Russia supplied furs, etc. As we shall soon see, DW decided to take control of the Bergen league office.

 

Tonight was the final trivia contest of our cruise. Unfortunately we came up one point short of a win, missing only 2 questions. I was however the only person in the room that knew the answer to a piece of trivia I’ve retained since childhood. What major motion picture star of the 1940s and ‘50s, and later TV Star in the ‘50s and ‘60s, played a female even though they were male? Answer in my next posting.

 

 

Edited August 29 by OneSixtyToOne

[Planning to cruise]

Its interesting to contrast your day in Flam with ours there last month when the weather was hot and sunny.  It was also the height of the tourist season.  We did the same included tour which showed us parts we had not seen before.  Your photo of the viewpoint cantilevered walkway showed a handful of people on it.  It was jammed when we visited and despite (or because of) the great weather it was difficult to appreciate the view never mind get decent photos.   

 

We travelled on the railway during our first vist on a land holiday in 1973 when it was more of a local means of transport and less of a busy tourist attraction.  As such, we have never been since on many cruise calls to Flam.  The difference in 50 years is huge.  Flam was just a station at the end of the railway line with a quay where people waited to connect to a local ferry.  The hotel was there and a couple of houses.   

 

In July the sail out along the fjord was stunning in the longer light and better weather.  We watched on deck for hours.  We did have a shower that produced a huge rainbow across the fjord and rocky summits.  

[Azulann]

Magnificent pictures of such landscapes of wonders of our planet.

Was the air  pure and pristine ? In  reading this thread, I   can almost smell the clear air of the North from my laptop.

 Thank you so much  for taking us along on this wonderful  cruise. 

 

 

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 14 - Part 1  “Norwegian Wood” 

 

Today we arrived at our last port of call, Bergen. This morning we took the optional Snapshot of Bergen excursion, a 4.5 hour tour of the city. Being our first time in Bergen, we wanted to see as much of the city as possible and this tour also includes a ride on the funicular to Mt. Floyen and a spectacular view. Even though it was raining, it did not disappoint. 

 

By the luck of the draw we had an excellent guide for this tour. Greivin is a Costa Rican who met a Norwegian woman in college in Costa Rica. He later moved to Bergen and married her. This experience allowed him to convey to us what Norwegian life is like from the perspective of an outsider. He was insightful, informative, humorous, and entertaining. The 4 plus hours we spent with him was very enriching and enjoyable. 

 

After a ride past the fish market and port area our guide talked about the rain and emphasized how much it rains here. He came from a tropical rainforest and thought it couldn’t be worse. His wife however told him to prepare because it is worse. It rains almost every day and even he was amazed as how much rain there is. Because of this the locals will take any opportunity when the sun appears briefly to head outside. Any green open park space quickly fills with throngs of people sun bathing.  

 

Our first stop was at Fantoft Stavkirke, a replica of a stave church, built after the original was destroyed by fire. Reaching the church required a short walk along a trail through a grove of trees. Our guide then described the passion Norwegians have for hiking. There are hiking trails of every length imaginable from minutes in duration up to weeks. He recounted on his arrival in Bergen his wife encouraged him to accompany her and some friends on a “short” hike. Four miles into the hike he almost collapsed and thought it was the finish line. Turns out it was the half way point. Eight miles is considered a short hike. He said that in kindergarten they start taking children on walks and then hikes regardless of the weather. Hiking is ingrained from an early age and is a social activity. His wife told him if he wanted to socialize and make friends, he had to hike. He said that Norwegians can appear distant at first but when you are hiking there is a bonding experience and they open up about all kinds of personal stuff. Hiking is where you make friends. 

 

 

In a small clearing the church appeared. The early churches, built when Christianity first arrived, incorporated elements of Norse mythology, with dragons predominantly extending from the roof. 

 

Outside there is a stone cross from the Middle Ages that is believed to have been made before the construction of churches.

Inside the smell of pine was phenomenal. The woodworking, complete with intricate mythological carvings, was amazing. Isn’t it good, Norwegian wood.

 

 

 

 

 

Our next stop was at the funicular. Close by is the oldest McDonald’s building in the world, dating from the 1700’s. McDonald’s was originally going to raze the building but protesters prevented it and saved the facade. We were told that inside is like any other McDonald’s. 

 

We rode to funicular to the top of Mt.  Floyen to catch a spectacular view of the city below. It was very windy and rainy so we sought shelter in the nearby cafe where our guide recommended the cinnamon rolls and hot chocolate.  He also said this is one of the better spots in Bergen to find good coffee.

 

 

 

Back on the bus. Greivin elaborated on the Norwegian coffee situation. “Basically,” he said “it sucks.” 

Coming from Costa Rica he said he’s use to the best coffee in the world. This I agree with. I’m a home coffee roaster and I buy small batches of green coffee beans from a company that sources them from small micro coffee growers around the world. The best coffee I’ve had has been from Costa Rica. It’s mountain grown in volcanic soil. 

 

Greivin went on to describe how he and his wife will go back to Costa Rica during the dead of winter for a few weeks of needed sunshine. On his return he fills an additional suitcase full of coffee. When he arrived at customs in Amsterdam he was pulled into secondary inspection for hours and interrogated as to why all the coffee? He told them that Norwegian coffee sucks. They started opening bags looking for drugs and finally he offered to brew them some coffee to try. Everyone had a cup and they let him continue onto Norway. Next year the same thing happened. While in secondary one of the guards from the previous year showed up and said “Your the guy with all the coffee. You know I went to Norway and you’re right, the coffee sucks.” They again brewed some coffee, had a laugh, and he was on his way. 

 

Our final stop of the tour was at the iconic Bergen waterfront. Here we paused for 20 minutes for some pictures and some quick shopping. Our guide also pointed out the unique manhole covers. Some were being stolen for souvenirs so they now have a locking mechanism on them.

 

 

This excursion usually includes a tour of the Hanseatic League museum. Unfortunately it is closed for the next couple of years for renovations. Our guide then explained how the whole area is sinking, which becomes obvious when you take a close look at the buildings. To preserve these structures a new technique is being tried. The entire structure is being carefully lifted and new foundations are being constructed. If successful the whole block will be redone in this fashion. 

 

 

We then walked through an alley to a different museum where the Hanseatic meeting houses and kitchen are located. 

 

 

 

 

Because of fire danger stoves, fireplaces, furnaces, and chimneys were banned. The only fire allowed in the area was in the kitchen of the meeting halls. Here an enormous hearth exists with furnaces connected to a common chimney placed in rooms to conduct the heat. This was the only place to warm yourself in the winter. 

 

 

 

 

 

In the main administrative hall decisions were made by a panel of three leaders. It was considered an insult to point your finger at someone so instead during judicial proceedings a pointer would be used.

 

 

 

During restoration some of the original paint and decorations were found on the wood beams.

 

We exited next to the cathedral, which is also a short distance to the ship. On the way back we also passed the fortress, which is literally next to our docking location.

 

 

At the conclusion of our tour Greivin presented all of us with a small gift, a coaster replica of the famous city manhole cover. We are not sure if this is something that our tour guide did personally or if all the Panoramic Bergen tours do this. Has anyone else received this thoughtful gift?

 

Back on board we had lunch and prepared for our afternoon included tour.

 

BTW I promised the trivia answer in this post, so here it is……. Lassie

Edited August 30 by OneSixtyToOne

[PaulS]

What a wonderful review. Your pictures and descriptions are so informative and entertaining. It is almost like being there. 

[FetaCheese]

@OneSixtyToOne

I commend you for taking much time to post your thorough descriptions and wonderful, professional photos of your tours.  Really enjoying your live from!

 

Thank you.

[OneSixtyToOne]

Day 14 - Part 2 “The Bergen Phonebook” 

 

After lunch we took the late afternoon included tour. By this time the rain had stopped and the sun peaked through the clouds, making picture taking much easier. Also, the old Bergen waterfront buildings face south making it an ideal time of day to capture them in full sunlight. We started our tour by boarding an electric bus. We have taken dozens of excursions over the years and this a first for us. Way to go Norway!

 

Our first stop was opposite where our ship was docked. We had a preview of the location from our port side veranda.

 

 

From the dock opposite our ship we had a great view of the harbor and old town.   The late afternoon light was at our back, making photographic conditions ideal.

 

 

 

The area where our ship is docked is the site of an enormous explosion during WWII. A Dutch cargo ship full of explosives blew up, destroying all the buildings in the area except the nearby fortress. The explosion was so great the anchor was thrown atop the hills above the harbor where it remains today as a monument. Docked next to our ship are various odd looking vessels. These are used to service the oil platforms in the North Sea. 

 

 

We then walked across the street to a parish church. The church had also been damaged by the WWII explosion and rebuilt. Outside the church we discovered what Bergen has done with their obsolete phone booths, they have turned them into miniature book sharing libraries. Quite inventive.

 

 

We entered the church through a basement door to discover the remains of a medieval castle. The tour guide told us stories of how this basement was used throughout the ages as a prison and was eventually converted into a place of worship.

 

 

The upstairs has an interesting configuration. The altar is on a wall in the middle perpendicular to entrances and seating. I don’t believe I’ve ever seen such a configuration before.

 

 

On our way to our next stop I was able to take a shot of what the area looked like pre-explosion. This area survived the blast. Notice all the white buildings, indicating this was a wealthy area. The hillside beyond is where the anchor from the explosion ended up.

 

We then stopped at the National Theater. Outside stands a statue honoring Henrik Ibsen. Ibsen is considered one of the most important playwrights since Shakespeare. He spent many years as the theater director in the building behind his statue. The statue is famous for its oversized dimensions and the crazy eyes.

 

 

 

From the theater we walked down a lovely tree lined street through a park to where a bandstand and a monument to composer Edvard Greig are located. This is a lovely area surrounded by sculpture, fountains, and museums. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We boarded our bus again for one last stop at the old town where the setting sun provided us one last photo op.

 

 

 

 

 From there it was back to the ship for always the most melancholy time of a cruise, packing for tomorrow’s departure. 

[janetcbl]

Your photos of Bergen are wonderful and bring back lovely memories of weeks spent there. One very minor correction: the statue in the park playing the violin is, I believe, of the 18th century great Norwegian violinist, Ole Bull, not Edvard Grieg. Easy small error: not too many people outside of Norway have heard of him.

Edited August 31 by janetcbl

[Planning to cruise]

One very minor correction: the statue in the park playing the violin is, I believe, of the 18th century great Norwegian violinist, Ole Bull, not Edvard Grieg. 

 

I was about to say the same thing.  The violinist is OB, the photos also show a statue of EG.  

Another worthwhile visit in Bergen is to Troldhaugen, Greigs home.

[OneSixtyToOne]

1 hour ago, janetcbl said:

Your photos of Bergen are wonderful and bring back lovely memories of weeks spent there. One very minor correction: the statue in the park playing the violin is, I believe, of the 18th century great Norwegian violinist, Ole Bull, not Edvard Grieg. Easy small error: not too many people outside of Norway have heard of him.

 

19 minutes ago, Planning to cruise said:

One very minor correction: the statue in the park playing the violin is, I believe, of the 18th century great Norwegian violinist, Ole Bull, not Edvard Grieg. 

 

I was about to say the same thing.  The violinist is OB, the photos also show a statue of EG.  

Another worthwhile visit in Bergen is to Troldhaugen, Greigs home.

 

Yes, I was referring to the picture of the Grieg statue. It's across from the bandstand.

The violinist statue is across the street, in a treelined park.