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Guam - Santiago Sep. 8 - Oct. 17. Missives from The Andesite Line on Pursuit


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Activities on Bakawari wrapped up by noon.  Time to strap the food bag on.  Having skipped breakfast, Collinade tacos and Margheritas hit the spot. 

 

We spent the afternoon Sailing through the "slot" to the Solomans.

 

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After a little food coma nappy poo it was time to hit the bow lounge and deck and see what  entertainment mother nature might dish up.   We missed the main show.   Numerous Tuna bait balls were spotted with Frigate birds gorging on the small fish trying to escape the tuna.  We did catch a bait ball.

 

 

Hold on to your hats....surprise surprise.....a few new wines just showed up.  Go figure.

 

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Italian night at the Collinade. All quite delish.

 

Carpaccio 

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Ya, ya, it's on the classic side of the menu...it was really tasty. Don't judge me.

Angel hair bolognaise. 

 

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Osso bucco.

They nailed it. 

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Nail in the Coffin, Pot au creme and Tiramisu. 

 

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I think it's time to have a discussion about the towel animals and plastic flowers.

 

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On 9/13/2024 at 11:48 PM, Fletcher said:

May I ask, was it not an option for the Pursuit to anchor offshore and zodiac guests in or maybe just offer a zodiac cruise?  Looking at the photos on Flickr people are there in boats and even kayaks.

 

Got a chance to talk to EL Chris Clark who is usually open and honest about what's going on.  She asked the locals about a zodiac drop off option and they replied that it was not possible during low tide.  We arrived at Nan Madol just at low tide.  Great for the hike in. Zodiac, not so much.

 

Due to the challenges in the jungle, we only got a glimpse of what was there. I would happily go back for a paddle around. Especially if there was a guide with knowledge. 

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Nan Madol follow up.

 

There was no one lost  snorkeling.

The authorities called off the afternoon excursion due to the fallen tree.  They found a saw and cleared the path. Excursion back on. 

The long delay returning for some was due to a vehicle that kept breaking down. Things were getting dicey as they rolled in after dark.

  We were told that we were the only cruise ship that has visited. Hmmmmm.  I'm usually suspect of these type of statements.   

 

The large bus that carried guests was decked out with a flocked velvet ceiling and chandelier. Island of 36,000 people with a party bus, yahoo!  Can't make this up. A friend captured this shot.

 

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Sea cucumber Aqua farming for the Asian market is prevalent. 

 

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3 hours ago, nancygp said:

@highplanesdrifters I really enjoyed the Flanagan Chardonnay last month on the sojourn.  After a couple of days on the ship, I didn’t have to ask for it as the servers knew it was my choice if I wanted chardonnay.  Glad it showed up for you.

 

Nancy

 

Yes, found it rather complex.  Just had a sip last night. Perhaps will delve deeper tonight. 

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Hellow Honiara. Capitol of the Solomon Islands with 65,000 people. Historic WWII location.  We are going off piste to a cocoa plantation. 

 

Sail in was perfect with light winds and calm seas.  Like peak Persids on a dark night the Flying Fish did not disappoint.  Sometimes four or five at a clip.

 

Looks like a resort and plenty of tourist boats.  Can't wait to explore.

 

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A first for Seabourn, tours in an oil tanker truck? Bad jokes, can you tell we in that hurry up and wait zone?

 

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Honiara,  Guadacanal - Soloman Islands

 

As mentioned we went in a different direction than most.  We booked a private to the Amazing Grace Cocoa Plantation. It was one of those perfect days you always hope for on a trip.

 

As luck and coincidence would have it, Christopher Marlaua was our guide. Silversea regularly hires him as a local expert and he was onboard the SS Explorer when we were here last year. Kismit!  I wish Seabourn would do something like this!  We learned more from him in a few hours than from all the "experts" on Pursuit. He debunked some of the misinfo that has been peddled.

 

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On to the Farm! 

 

Let's have a taste of the raw Cocoa pods.  Pick off a nub and chew a bit but don't swallow.  A delightful sweet citrus flavor.

 

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Growing on the tree.

 

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Drying, what a smell.

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Roasting, getting closer.

 

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Peeling

 

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Pounding

 

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A few other tropical delights. 

 

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They prepared a traditional meal for us. What a feast for the taste buds.

 

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Taro, banana, sweet potato, and a few other starches all prepared in different ways. Steamed, boiled, pudding, you name it.

 

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Braised chicken and greens.  Snapper poached in herbs, spices, and coconut.   Over the top delicious.

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The green balls were some type of fern.....I think.😄

That pineapple will haunt me. So simple but not overly sweet like the commercial stuff we are used to.

 

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A seat with a view.

 

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The Amazing Grace and her daughter.  She's quite the local celebrity.  Her uncle was Prime Minister.  

 

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A walk by the sea .  A swim was offered.

 

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Bathrooms, showeres, and changing room.

 

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Quite the fancy digs.considering where we are.

 

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The day was spent talking to the locals.  They had more questions for us than we had for them.

 

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Stay tuned for Part II.

 

 

 

 

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It looks like a wonderful day!  And you just answered my thoughts about what will we do when we return to Honiara  given we have exhausted all the WW2 things.  I’m glad you had a great experience and I’ll surely try that tour next year!  Once again great photos.  

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On 9/17/2024 at 8:34 PM, kej1 said:

It looks like a wonderful day!  And you just answered my thoughts about what will we do when we return to Honiara  given we have exhausted all the WW2 things.  I’m glad you had a great experience and I’ll surely try that tour next year!  Once again great photos.  

 

It was a fantastic day.  I would like to temper you expectations slightly for the actual tour of the farm.  A short stroll through the plantation with a few explanations.   The highlight was the lunch and people, especially our guide Chris.

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SEABOURN IS A HOT MESS

 

You have been warned, rant coming.

 

Last night we were informed of another schedule change to our detriment. At least the fourth since we booked.  They have slowly taken away the smaller interesting islands and replaced them with larger cities. This time we are losing Henderson, Pitcairn - spending another night in Papeete so they can clean the hull for Antarctica. Even I knew the hull needed to be cleaned before they got there.  IAATO is quite clear.

They are offering a few included bus tours.....OR you can pay $395 to go to Moorea, $135 for a sail, and $145 for a 4×4 ride. 🤯🤯🤯

 

They threw a dance party above us in the Club. Pounding base and elephants dancing. Promised it would stop by 10pm.  That came and went, more calls to Guest services.  Grrrrrr.  The answer the following day - Gee we have never had complaints ( not true) and we put in a special floor. We were promised it would not happen again.

 

AC problems over 2 days.  Third call asking for an engineer they finally sent a housekeeper up who turned the temp down and said call us in an hour if it's not working. Clearly they think we we are idiots.  After more calls insisting they send and engineer, one finally came and fixed it. 

 

Recap and briefing -

Often conflicting or wrong information about the excursions on the app.  Asked some simple questions last night about the tour we were on tomorrow.  How long, what's provided, what do we need to bring? EL Adam Jenkins did not know the answers. Said he would get back to us. The R& B's rarely contain any information about where we are going and what we are doing. They have turned into a series of 10 minute dummy lectures. EL gives us departure times and weather. He might be the worst EL we have ever had.

 

Sent a letter to the muckity mucks about the wine.  No answer yet.  I'm not holding my breath. HD has asked for permission to go wine shopping in Papeete.   Well.......with the schedule change he will have time to make some onshore. 😂

 

Lots of other little niggles, but will stop with the big ones. You can tell frustration is setting in.  Why does it take so many phone calls to solve a problem that was easily prevented in the first place? 

 

And Seabourn can't figure out why they can't fill their expedition ships!  This leg has 179, and we are told next is 155.

 

We are curtailing Seabourn out of our future travel plans.

 

FYI, There are positives and we are having a great time. Stay tuned for the fun.

Edited by highplanesdrifters
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Back to fun!

 

Sake and Sushi tasting.

 

This might be one of the best onboard revenue experiences we have ever had. Only $45.

 

Bartender Miguel gave us a great tutorial on Sake. Who knew they polished the rice to get to the heart.

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Sushi chef prepared three special courses not on the menu.

 

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First up scallops. Not always a favorite of mine.  This I could eat every day

 

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Next up Lobster. Always a favorite.

 

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Classic tuna. The inside had miniature crunchy bits of something, wow. 

 

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And.....hold on to your hats....REAL Wasabi!

 

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The saki flowed freely.

 

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A good time was had by all and we can't wait to do it again!

 

We have a Tequila and Mescal tasting with Miguel coming up.

 

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 Backtracking a bit to Honiara.

 

Experiencing many parts of Honiara with Chris our guide was one of those perfect travel days.

 

Like many places the city was closed down during Covid.  This market sprung up, is still there and is now referred to as the Corona Market.

 

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There is Gold mining on the island. Lots of entrepreneurs buying and selling.

 

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@RetiredandTravel perhaps you could pawn the little ladies things here.  🤣

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Our guide told us the population was growing at 3.5 and most likely 2 to 3 times the current estimate of 65,000. Unemployment is 80%.  There were riots here 2 years ago when the Government switched allegiance to China. Many Chinese buildings and businesses were burned. They are being rebuilt.

 

This is typical housing.

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Boats queued up to take folks to other islands.  They come here to shop.  Depending on the island about a 45 minute ride.

 

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 We joked that there was a  WWII  battle here between Japan and the Allies.  Now, China has just come in and bought it.

 

Awfully nice of Japan.

 

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We had enough time for a stop at the WWII memorial. Quite a spot

Thanks @Fletcher

 

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The great day continued with Singapore night at the Collonade. Really good.

 

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Killer sunset and full moon.

 

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They just canceled half the tours in Venautau because of a beetle infestation. I kid you not. You can't make this up.🤣

 

We must leave the port by 3pm.  This announcement was made a bit after we were cleared.   I wonder if there are folks off on private tours.

 

Seabourn cheapskates do not have a local guide/emissary on board like other expeditions do. I suspect the right local person could have solved this.

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3 hours ago, lincslady said:

Well done highplanesdrifter for keeping cheerful under really maddening conditions, and thank goodness for some interesting food and drink!  Here's hoping you get at least some of the ports and adventures you were promised.

 

Thanks you for such kind words.

Be assured that we are having a fantastic time.   Yes frustrated solving problems.....

My motto.......If you're not happy, you're not happy.

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Time to eat some crow.

 

Sesbourn scrambled to get everyone on a tour. Yes a bit of confusion but not bad at all given the situation. Should they have know about the Beetle infestation in advance and prepared for it, YES.  Put the pedal to the metal and gotten here sooner, yep. Hindsight is so easy. Turns out the bugs come out at dusk and swarm.  Don't want to pick them up and take them to other islands.

 

Now on to the main feature. Canoe ride down the Riri River ro the Blue Hole.  What a special treat, albeit slightly touristy. Hey we're tourists!

 

Our chariot awaits.

 

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Welcome committee. 

 

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Off we go! Take a quiet ride with me with only the sounds of the jungle.

 

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The colors....the light....

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We reach the 60 foot deep Blue Hole. Time for swim in refreshing crystal waters.

 

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I remember all these fish from my childhood aquarium. 

 

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Libations on offer.

 

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The obligatory tropical Flora. There were hundreds.

 

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I will close my eyes and think of the beauty of this place often.

 

 

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16 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

Often conflicting or wrong information about the excursions on the app.  Asked some simple questions last night about the tour we were on tomorrow.  How long, what's provided, what do we need to bring? EL Adam Jenkins did not know the answers. Said he would get back to us. The R& B's rarely contain any information about where we are going and what we are doing. They have turned into a series of 10 minute dummy lectures. EL gives us departure times and weather. He might be the worst EL we have ever had.

 

To put it simply, this sucks. Read up on Adam's bio and he sounds like an incredible EL if you're basically anywhere on the Pacific Coast, from Alaska to Patagonia. Loads and loads of experience. Don't know why Seabourn/Robin West seem to think that ELs and more generally expedition team members are just interchangeable cogs regardless of destination. There's no point in an EL who hasn't spent significant time in region. Some patience for this immediately post-COVID with the mad scramble to staff back up and the competition to talent that had spread to the four winds. Much much less patience now.

 

As for itinerary changes, there are few places I'd less want to overnight than Papeete. Don't understand why this couldn't be done in Valpo, where it should have originally been scheduled anyway. Though I will say the best value meal we had on our recent trip to French Polynesia was the poke bowl joint right in the PPT airport. Not joking! It was so good for the price (only $10 USD!) that I was compelled to write an online review.

 

Glad you're making the most of it, and love the photos & videos from your Vanuatu (sp?) excursion. Reminds me of what I often though while on safari in Kenya - just want to capture every detail of this moment to memory so I can think back on this and relive it for the rest of my life. I mean, it's why we travel, and those brief snippets make all the other frustrations so worth it.

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@markandjie

You have summed up things so well.  After the second letter to corporate about all these preventable nuisances, Adam gave me a ring and we had a chat. I'm just asking for accurate and timely information that is needed to enjoy and be prepared for tours and excursions.  Is that too much?

 

I take no pleasure in being the squeaky wheel. We still have a month to go on this trip. I don't want to spend it fixing problems and chasing down answers. 

 

Positive things.

Service across the board is outstanding. With the rare exception of a miss or two, food has been really good to wow, that's yummy!

 

I'll rave about the sushi and sake tasting again. Bar manager Annie came up with a winner. We are doing a Tequila and Mescal tasting with Miguel today.  He is from Peru and word is he is an expert.  These events were originally held at noon and 2.  I'm not a big day drinker.  We asked if we could have them later in the day, and Viola!

 

We had dinner in the restaurant last night with sea bird expert Joe Cockram.  I wasn't sure if they would let me back in after last week kerfuffle. Shockingly they did.  Food and service were excellent.  We have been lucky to sail with Joe frequently. His stories and  humor are sheer joy. A good time was had by all.

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Sea day!

 

Another fun tasting with Miguel.  This time Tequila and Mescal.

 

Mescal - a little too peaty for me, but others loved it.

 

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Chef dished up some Mexican apps.  

 

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Clean and smoooothe. Perfect for a Margherita. 

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Limes with different salts and spices. 

 

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And the winner is....

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There was a Staff cook off show. Hotel vs Expedition.  Cheesy, but good fun. 

 

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Note to self, dont get in this Zodiac.

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South Sea sunset. 

 

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Edited by highplanesdrifters
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