Saga Rose Greenland Voyager August 2007

[franu]

That ship's design is more or less what I sadly expect in the near future - more enclosed hulls and less open decks.

 

Why would I be cruising if this will be our future? Combine this with freestyle dining by any name and you would have zero socializing. For me the people that I meet and spend time with are at least 50% of my enjoyment. Less open decks and more balconies, courtyards and parks with grass for those who pay more for the privilege, only lead to a stratified system of cruisers.

 

The cruise ship and concept was for a classless society. Dear me! We are returning to that. I guess that soon I will have a sign tattooed on my forehead saying "INSIDE CABIN". This will make certain that I do not go in areas where I am not permitted and will tell everyone that I am beneath them in many ways. No thanks, I would stay home.

Fran

[Druke I]

Until I experienced "open dining" on Oceania, I was sure that traditional, fixed seating/table/waitstaff was the way to go.

 

Oceania handles the open seating very well, and I found that most of the time, I could get the same table/waitstaff if I asked the maitre 'd.

 

Saga Ruby will be very pleased that "her thread" now has more than 1700 posts.

 

So far, there has been a great exchange of ideas coupled with individual experiences.

[Kapricorn]

Oceania handles the open seating very well, and I found that most of the time, I could get the same table/waitstaff if I asked the maitre 'd.

 

Yes, indeed, that's possible. When I cruised on Norwegian Sky in 2000 and on Dawn Princess in 2003, I was able to get the maitre d' to book me at the same table nightly in their freestyle dining rooms throughout these cruises.

 

I also agree that this thread has been a great exchange of ideas, even if we no longer discuss the old days on the transatlantic ocean liners and the first generation of cruise ships. I still am learning something new and/or interesting things as this thread continues, even after the 1700-mark.

 

Donald.

[Saga Ruby]

Growth in 2007 was in the ultra-luxury cruise sector, specialist cruising and in UK departures and ports of call. The number of ex-UK cruises have increased by 48% since 2004 compared with a 22% increase in fly-cruises, according to the Annual Cruise Review.

 

Could someone translate these two sentences? What is ex-UK - is that like "from" the UK? And here we are looking at futuristic drawings of a mother ship disbursing smaller ships and ferries - is this like a car show where they show experimental cars or futuristic models, or is Mr. Johansson serious?

 

And what I'm seeing in the first sentence is the note about "other" cruises being the growth market. Colour me confused.

 

Ruby

[Host Sharon]

Ex-Uk means sailing to and from a UK port.

 

Well - you asked for a report of QE2 and I did say it might be long so here goes.

 

Mediterranean Treasures 21st May 2008 - Queen Elizabeth 2

 

It was the first time I have driven to the QE2 Terminal at Southampton as last time I sailed from there I stayed overnight at the Hilton and was coached there the following morning. All was fine however, although the car drop off is not quite so smooth as at Mayflower Terminal. You first have to drop off luggage and then drive further on to leave car for CPS. I checked in fairly quickly and then had about a half hour wait in the terminal until Orange E was called – about 1.45. Cunard have not yet adopted the early embarkation of P&O. I was taken to my cabin by a stewardess. The cabin (5025) was small but fine for just me (it was a twin) and handily situated close to Stairway A which goes straight to the Mauretania Restaurant and the Boat Deck. The bathroom was small but the shower had a glass door instead of a curtain, and a proper quiet flushing toilet instead of the noisy suction version on modern ships.. There was a full bottle of Pol Acker sparkling wine and an ice bucket – no fridge at this grade. My cases were waiting in my cabin so I unpacked immediately. There were two single wardrobes, four half-drawers and one full-width drawer. The cases fitted under the beds.

 

I was expecting the ship to look a bit tatty and tired, but in fact she was sparkling, with new carpets in the Lido and fresh paint everywhere. Not sure if this was because of the impending Queen’s visit or to encourage the many people on board who were new to QE2 or new to Cunard to repeat cruise with them.

 

I headed up to the Lido for a snack but noticed there were serving tea so had sandwiches and cakes in the Queens Room instead. Muster Drill followed, then I stowed the lifejacket and headed up to the boat deck for sailaway. Had glass of Veuve Cliquot champagne as we left the QEII terminal, followed behind by Arcadia and Independence of the Seas. Sat on deck as we passed the Isle of Wight, where the Mona Lisa liner was tendering passengers ashore to Carisbrooke. Glad to see she survived her tenth grounding last month! We soon left the other ships behind as we built up speed to 30 knots and headed for the Bay of Biscay.

 

Went for a stroll round the shops before changing for dinner – semi-formal night. Had a cocktail in the Chart Room before going for dinner in the Mauretania Restaurant. The food and service was suberb but I have to say I was not keen on the restaurant itself. The low ceilings and lighting made it feel a bit utilitarian.

 

Day 2 – At Sea

Woke early and had breakfast in the Lido. Fresh fruit and croissant, all served to me, tray taken to table by steward and fresh coffee poured at the table. Fresh milk in jug on table. Popped to bookshop to buy lots of souvenirs. Formal black & white night

 

Dressed for b/w night and went to Chart Room for a Cunard Special Cocktail – Jasmine and Rose Petal Martini – Bombay Sapphire gin, hint of jasmine and rose petal, splash of cranberry juice served with fresh strawberry. Then danced till midnight, including the Cunard Teddy Bear’s Picnic – a sort of progressive barn dance.

 

Cunard also have their own song, sung to passengers celebrating birthdays on board.

Happy, Happy Birthday from the Crew to You,

Happy, Happy Birthday across the ocean blue,

Happy, Happy Birthday may your wish come true. Hi

Happy, Happy Birthday from the Crew to You!

 

Day 3 at sea

A warmer day. Hot on deck as we sailed through the Straits of Gibraltar. Saw US aircraft carrier and frigate on their way back to the US. The Rock of Gibraltar was to our port with the Atlas Mountains of Morocco to Starboard, then we were through.

 

Met Jean (Mrs Noah) in the Chart Room at 4.30 after leaving a note under her cabin door. After dinner, went to the Queens Room for dancing, then watched the Illusionist before a short midnight walk on deck and bed.

 

Day 4 at sea

Another nice relaxing day. Sat on deck for about 2 hours. Went back for another look at some Tanzanite earrings I rather liked to discover them sold – so bought nice pendant instead. Changed for Captain’s cocktail party and formal night. Chatted to a deck cadet which was interesting. She was upset that she needed steering practice but was not allowed to steer ship at over 22 knots, which we had been exceeding so far.

 

Day 5 Naples

The sun was just rising behind Vesuvius as I headed up for breakfast so nipped up to Boat Deck to take photos. We were berthed next to Grand Princess- henceforth known as the “Shopping Trolley”, and Aida Diva. I was on an early excursion to Pompeii so got ready to board coach. It was very hot. We first stopped at a cameo workshop, then we had a two-hour tour of the part of the site, entering through the Sea Gate, and visiting streets, temples and a villa. Saw a large bird of prey perched on top of one of the ancient walls. When we reached some of the bodies, I was surprised how small they were, and also that there were bones visible out of the plaster casts. Back at the coach pickup, I bought a pistachio gelato while others shopped for Limonello etc.

 

We arrived back on the ship in time for lunch , then I sat on deck and watched the passengers on the “Shopping Trolley” and Aida Diva. Noted that on Aida, every balcony had a hammock as well as chairs and tables. I filmed the sailaway as the siren sounded at 7pm.

 

Our waiting staff are brilliant - Roman and Paula from Romania. Last night at dinner one of our table said she didn't want any pudding, so Paulo duly served her a plate with "Nothing" written on in jus!! Wasn't so keen when she served me "Bambi" in her words when I ordered venison though!!

 

It is also nice that the complimentary toiletries are replaced as I use them up.

 

Day 6 Rome

We had an early start with excursion leaving at 7.30am. As we arrived in Civitavecchia, there were lots of other cruise ships – Costa, Grand Princess, Thompson Destiny, Aido Diva. We set off on our 1½ hour ride to Rome. We were given radio headsets to hear the guide with and then set off walking. We started at the Spanish Steps with half an hour free time at the Piazza Spagna, then to the Trevi Fountain here we had more free time. I bought an ice cream and duly threw my coin into fountain! Next we walked past another Roman Temple undergoing restoration before arriving at the Pantheon – a truly amazing building. It’s hard to describe turning a corner and suddenly coming across this huge Roman Temple in the middle of the street. We wandered around inside, then to the Piazza Navona were again we had some free time. Next was lunch in a restaurant close to St Peter’s Square. We then walked to St Peter’s Square where we had an hour of free time. There were no queues so I walked straight in after passing through the metal detectors.

On return to the ship Cunard had set up some tents, and were serving free orange juice, chilled water or champagne – a very welcome touch.

 

Changed and headed up onto deck for sailaway but we were delayed due to the water bowser being 3 hours late, by which time our tugs were in use elsewhere. Sailed at 8.30pm for La Spezia.

 

Day 7 Florence from La Spezia

Another beautiful balmy morning. Had breakfast at 6am for very early excursion to Florence and Pisa. Tendered ashore to a pretty palm-lined boulevard, then a 2½ hour drive to Flornce, past the Carrera marble quarries and through Tuscan and Ligurian villages. We arrived and set off on a walking tour – with the radio headsets again – to see the Duomo, Baptistry, Uffizi Museum and the Ponte Vecchio and off course – David. It was very hot again. We had lunch in a nice hotel before the one hour drive to Pisa.

 

There we walked past the souvenir stalls selling tacky models of the leaning tower to arrive in the square to an amazing sight – the three marble buildings – Cathedral, Baptistry and Bell Tower - were astounding. We arrived back to catch the last tender at 6.30 to stewards handing out cold flannels – again very welcome. I was up on deck for the sailaway and the wonderful sound of QE2’s siren resounding three times across the bay.

 

Day 8 Cannes

Cannes – another tender port. Gradually the mist and clouds began to clear but left a long swell and there were problems with the pontoons and tenders. We were told that in the previous two days, two cruise ships had had to abandon their anchors and flee to clear the storms. As I was on an afternoon tour, I relaxed in the morning, getting a No.19 tender ticket at 10.45, to give me time to wander ashore a little first. I had a wait of 45 minutes. Cunard had to hire a tug for the whole day to push the stern round to create a lee – something the “Shopping Trolley” was doing with bow and stern thrusters! I wandered along the harbour looking at the lovely yachts moored there – apparently it costs up to £1000 a day for the moorings! I took some photos from the headland of the two ships in the bay, before wandering back. I had booked an afternoon excursion out to St Paul de Vence. This was a beautiful hilltop medieval village – virtually unchanged. There were lots of shops selling Provencal fabrics, art, sculpture and jewellery.

 

Back at Cannes, we caught the last but one tender. Cold flannels were handed out again as we waited to depart. A bit rough getting from the boat to the pontoon, and you had to mind your toes on the moving gangway, but we were soon back on board.

 

Day 9 – Barcelona

A lovely day, although yet another early start – 7.30am – on the coach to the Montserrat Monastery. The weather was again very kind. We had a brief coach tour round Barcelona, including some buildings by Gaudi – but not the Sagrada Familia, although we could see the spires from the ship. We drove up and up into the mountains, above the clouds and the sweet clear air to the Benedictine Monastery. There we were able to file past the medieval Black Madonna before exploring on our own. This was a half-day excursion so we drove back to the ship, where I had a light lunch in the Lido and then on to deck for our 2pm sailaway, This was going to very good as so many cruise ships were in port – Island Star, Thomson Spirit, Silver Whisper, Navigator and Brilliance of the Seas and Grand Princess. As we sailed past each in turn saluted us with their sirens.

 

Day 10 Gibraltar

Woke to a cloudy day. We did not dock until midday so had a leisurely morning before my tour of the Rock.

 

Once ashore, we first travelled up to the very top in the cable car. We then came half-way down to the Ape’s Den. Very funny watching the youngsters jumping onto cars and clinging to radio aerials. One poor mother ape though was still holding and grooming her dead baby. Next we started to walk through the great Siege Tunnels. These were cut right through he rock itself by hand, with openings every so often for the guns. We ended up at one of the early garrisons and then the local museum to see a huge model of Gibraltar. By now it had started to rain. After dinner I wandered on to deck for the 11pm sailaway. The weather had cleared and it was lovely on deck as we sailed from our last port.

 

Day 11 at sea

Lovely leisurely day to recover from all the frantic sightseeing. I bought a couple of books from the Ocean Bookshop and in the afternoon I joined a long queue to get my books signed by Captain McNaught, then had tea and again sat on deck for a while – glorious afternoon in sun.

 

Day 12 – at sea – last day on board

I always dislike this day. After breakfast I spent the morning doing more packing, collected my duty-free gin and a photo from last night’s party. Spoke to the Captain twice, once on the stairs and once in the Deck Two corridors. Nice he remembered my name from the book signing. Had tea in the Lido and then sat in the sun on deck and chatted to Gillian (whom I met on the tour in Pompeii). Suddenly there was a dreadful noise and vibration as the engines appeared to have been put into full astern. It soon stopped and I never did find out why.

 

Conclusion.

 

I love this ship. There will never be another like her and I am so glad and lucky to have experienced a voyage (Cunard do not do cruises) on a true ocean liner. Her sleek lines drew admiring looks whenever we were in port and her speed at sea is unsurpassed. Despite her age, she is still looking good. Yes- there are downsides. The cabins are much smaller than on today’s ships, and the soundproofing between them is not good. She is not that disabled friendly, although there were a few passengers in wheelchairs. I love the proper teak decks everywhere and the lovely wooden steamer chairs along the Boat Deck. (there are plastic sunloungers too). I for one will really miss her when she goes for good in November.

[Druke I]

Thanks for your review.

 

It sounds like it was a good trip.

[Conte Di Savoia]

I also agree that this thread has been a great exchange of ideas, even if we no longer discuss the old days on the transatlantic ocean liners and the first generation of cruise ships.

Donald.

 

I'd like to bring us back for a moment to those original nostalgic musings. Well, maybe not really nostalgia for any of us because it is about the undisputed greatest ocean liner Normandie, which none of us sailed on. New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art came into possession of 56 of the etched glass and mirror gold, silver, plantinum and palladium leaf panels which were in the Grand Lounge. Executed by the French artist Jean Dupas, they had been removed from the ship during her conversion into a troop transport and before the fire which ultimately destroyed her at her New York pier. They are the apotheosis of the French art deco style and had been on display in the Met's ground floor cafeteria, which was recently converted into the new Greco-Roman art gallery. They disappeared from view for awhile but are now on display in the modern art galleries of the museum. This past weekend I had the opportunity to see them again after many years. Additional panels, not previously displayed have been add for this showing. The subject matter is The History of Navigation and The Chariot of Poseidon. Any ship enthusiast in and around the NYC metropolitan area should get themselves over to the Met for this exciting event. Here is a photo of the exhibit.

[CGTNORMANDIE]

THANKS CONTE!!!

 

Those panels are magnificent. I recall another set of NORMANDIE panels also in the Metropolitan Museum...have you seen those? The NORMANDIE was the most extraordinary liner ever built...without doubt.

 

HI DONALD!!! You see...we still talk about great Atlantic liners on this thread...lol...just not as often. That will not stop me from jumping in once and a while with a memory or two...lol.

 

Ross

[Saga Ruby]

Ships cat, thanks for taking the time to write up your travel diary. I have two questions - what is a water bowser and what kind of drink are cold flannels? Most people try to write like a magazine reviewer or travel agent, so your account was quite refreshing from a single person's perspective.

 

I was a bit surprised that your tour didn't at least drive by Sagrada Familia. As you know, it is the postcard reference to all things Barcelona.

 

I didn't know the Mona Lisa has grounded ten times. Is there some kind of blue riband for this type of achievement?

 

I had to sit down and rest after reading about your port-intensive tours. That was quite an active cruise, uh, voyage. Thanks for the review.

 

Ruby

[Host Sharon]

Thanks Saga Ruby - sorry I tend to assume things I shouldn't. A water bowser is the boat/tanker that was used to refill the ship's tanks with drinking water. Cold flannels - don't know the exact US equivilent but chilled damp cloths for us to wipe our hands and generally cool down.

 

As for poor Mona Lisa - she has only been running aground since she was leased to the company currently operating her, as far as I know. Last month she had to be evacuated and towed off a sand bank off Latvia. She was the old Kungsholm, Oceanic II, Victoria. A once lovely ship, now looking a bit forlorn and unloved, with a rust-streaked hull.

[Druke I]

We sailed her as Sea Princess, under the Princess flag, 5-89, Kobe Japan to Vancouver BC, via Honolulu. This was before she was transferred to P&O (UK) and renamed Victoria.

 

Prior to our cruise, she had "tipped" a propeller somewhere in Asia, and had to reduce her speed slightly, and we skipped a scheduled port call in Maui. Fine by us - she was a lovely ship.

 

We were upgraded from an Inside to a Stateroom (equivalent to today's mini-suites). It was a beautiful room, with lots of polished woods, and fairly spacious.

[Kapricorn]

Conte, thanks for the post about the Normandie's beautiful panels. I had admired that ship's statue of the muse now located at the base of the grand staircase in Summit's dining room, as well as two doors situated in the same ship's specialty dining room. Have any of you been on Summit? I took a photograph of the statue, but unfortunately the flash did not work too well.

 

Ships Cat, I very much enjoyed reading your account of the voyage on QE2! It made me feel as if I was actually on the ship. Celebrity also provides "cold flannels" to passengers returning from tours in hot climes, which is nice.

 

Donald.

[Conte Di Savoia]

Conte, thanks for the post about the Normandie's beautiful panels. I had admired that ship's statue of the muse now located at the base of the grand staircase in Summit's dining room, as well as two doors situated in the same ship's specialty dining room. Have any of you been on Summit? I took a photograph of the statue, but unfortunately the flash did not work too well.

 

Donald.

 

No, I've never been on Summit or Millenium with its panels from White Star's Olympic. We are scheduled to go on Constellation for its September transatlantic crossing from Barcelona to Bayonne (NYC). As for the statue of "La Normandie", I did see it when it was at the Fontainbleau Hotel in Miami. It's much better to have it at sea again.

[CGTNORMANDIE]

MONA LISA ex KUNGSHOLM:

 

We had booked a transatlantic to Europe on QE II and a return on KUNGSHOLM for September-October 1975. I think it was around August that we received a telegram (I had never received a telegram in my life.) from SAL saying that they were going out of business. I saved the telegram...it is now part of my memorabilia collection. We made it home on the QE II...but I would have loved to have crossed on the KUNGSHOLM.

 

The Celebrity SUMMIT:

 

We cruised on the SUMMIT a few years ago. We loved the SUMMIT...she is a beautiful ship and we loved the NORMANDIE history onboard. The panels in the NORMANDIE Dining Room were gorgeous. I brought the Maitre D' some NORMANDIE lapel pins and a color copy of the 1937 wine list from the NORMANDIE. The entrance to the Normandie Dining Room has a rotunda that showcases some great memorablilia from NORMANDIE. We also had a table in the main dining room that was almost next to Beaudry's statue, "La Belle Normandie". Many people do not realize that this statue is the original that was commissioned and placed onboard the NORMANDIE in 1935. I believe that this statue was the one that graced the original First Class dining room. There was another statue that stood at the top of the grand stair case on the NORMANDIE. (Please excuse me if I am incorrect...all this is off the top of my head.) You are right Donald...my pictures of the statue did not come out that great either.

[Saga Ruby]

Did you see the comments about Marco Polo that were posted on May 28th? http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?p=14790494#post14790494

 

It sounds as though your favourite ship is being maintained to the previous high standards. Do you hear anything adverse about her current condition? I'm still agog about the awkward handover between cruise companies that happened onboard your and her last Atlantic crossing.

 

Ruby

[Kapricorn]

I've admired the Normandie memorabilia in the rotunda showcase on Summit. Were the two Normandie statues identical? I dug out the three murky photographs which I took of the statue, selected one of them and then drastically lightened it in Photoshop. Hope that you can see it.

 

Donald.

[Saga Ruby]

Excellent photo, Donald. Thanks for posting it. John Maxtone-Graham, in one of his fine lectures onboard the Connie, remarked that he noticed the Baudry statue of La Normandie at the Fontainbleu in Miami and, one thing led to another with Celebrity purchasing the statue from the hotel and now proudly displays her.

 

By the bye, many of you who own JM-G’s book "The Only Way to Cross" can look on page 277 and see photos of the panels in the first-class dining room of Normandie. So fascinating to think that they are now owned and on display at the Met.

 

Personal note - I bought J-MG’s book onboard Fairsea in 1983 from the author. At the time, I had no knowledge of him, of maritime history, or the kismet of ocean travel. I was just killing time on a sea day and was gobsmacked to hear his lectures which led me to delve into the vast rich and fascinating history of ocean liners.

 

Ruby

[Conte Di Savoia]

Actually the statue was originally located at the top of the grand stairway which led from the First Class Smoking Room to the Grill at the stern of the ship. The panels on display at The Met were from a corner of the Grand Lounge, not the First Class Dining Room. When I have a chance I will scan in pictures to show the original locations of these works of art.

[franu]

Did you see the comments about Marco Polo that were posted on May 28th?

 

Yes Ruby, I have seen that posting and was very happy to hear about it. The OP wrote about his experience which was a first as he had never been on the MP previously. I am afraid that I would be looking at it as a comparison. My MP was more than 50 % crew based. I have sailed with many of the same crew and passengers too. A very unique experience.

It felt like coming home.

 

I am being realistic to say that this would never again be my experience but I am extremely ready to embrace it if it were to be.

 

I am still waiting for Aegean I. Having heard nothing, I am not optimistic that it will be ready in the fall. Any one with inside information, please post.

 

sips cat, I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report. In fact I was tired when we finished the trip. It was so real for me. I can't imagine an excursion which included the cameo factory, Pompeii scavi and shopping which returned to the ship in time for lunch. Thank you so very much for sharing it with us.

 

Donald, That is the first that I have seen of that statue. Thank you for showing me what I have obviously missed.

Fran

[Kapricorn]

Donald, That is the first that I have seen of that statue. Thank you for showing me what I have obviously missed.

Fran

 

Fran, were you on Summit? I was on her to Alaska in September 2005. I took this second photograph of the statue from the upper level of the dining room. It is near the base of the grand staircase and between tables on either side. The original photograph was pitch-black, but in Photoshop I lightened it twice.

 

Donald.

[franu]

Sorry Donald, I guess that I misled you to believe that I was on that ship. Unfortunately every ship that I have been on with the exception of the Marco Polo and Costa Tropicale are at the bottom of the sea. The Costa ship was the largest I have ever been on at under 37,000grt.

 

If I owned a ship I would not let me sail on it for fear that I hexed them.

 

I really did enjoy seeing your photo of the statue as there was something about the demeanor that attracted me.

Fran

[franu]

Sorry, duplicate post

[CGTNORMANDIE]

Now you have me going back my house to consult some of my books...LOL. I am almost sure that this statue was the one in the Main Dining Room onboard the SS NORMANDIE. The other statue was at the head of the grand staircase which led from the aft Grill all the way down to the main lounge. We will get to the bottom of this...LOL.

 

Ross

[Conte Di Savoia]

Ross

I checked in Normandie, Queen of The Seas by Foucart et al. and the statue that Donald photographed looks like the Baudry that was at the entrance to The Grill. The other statue which was in the First Class Dining Room was said to be 13 feet tall and was created by Dejean. It depicted Athena Parthenos. I don't know what happened to that one. Does anyone know?

The art on the ship was incredible. What a different world it must have been!!

[Kapricorn]

I googled "Normandie statues" and found this at: http://www.anastasiathegreat.com/press_release_8702.html

 

'La Normandie' is a sculpture from the historic 1932 Normandie and is installed on the Summit.

 

So ... was 'La Normandie' the one from the dining room or at the top of the staircase of the original ship? What was the other statue called?

 

Donald.