Which shore excursion in Montevideo?

[Merlees]

Thanks, Alan. Would you be able to forward the info to me at my email address? It is merlees@comcast.net I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for you input.

[jrkfrk]

Alan

I would also appreciate a copy: jrkfrkataoldotcom. Thanks so much - we are just starting to plan a trip for March 2009 and gathering information.

Fran

[fleckle]

My friend and her father forwarded, long extensive information regarding touring BA. They include recommendations for shopping, to do and sites to see (detailed reasons to go or avoid). I'm happy to post them, but they are long.

 

Alan

 

Yes, by all means please do post them. That way the information will remain available here for all who plan to visit BA in the future.

 

If it should be too long for one post, you could split it up into several parts. It will be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

Fleck

[Tess111]

Alan, I would appreciate the BA information as well. We are leaving Nov. 28 for 1 week in BA, 2 nights in Iguassu Falls, and then cruise leaving on Dec. 9. I would really appreciate the information. My email address is tkelly11@shaw.ca Thanks.

[BldLvr]

Ron, I am not sure if this is too late of a post for you but DH and I did your cruise last Dec/Jan and we were on the Rotterdam. We did the tour you mentioned and we LOVED it! We thought the city tour was very nice and we loved the winery, the wine and champagne really flowed. I thought the enterttainment there was good too. There are no vineyards at the winery but it was nice just the same. I think it is all up to the individual what is entertaining and what is not. Your cruise will be wonderful I'm sure. I felt that this cruise was the highlight of our cruising! Antarctica was unreal and BEAUTIFUL, happy cruising. Marian

[Dochawk]

This is what my friend Diana sends to friends and acquaintances about BA where her father grew up and where she visits at least once a year (its long and a few words are in Spanish):

 

Restaurants

 

Food

 

 

• At the Costanera, we've gone to "Los Años Locos", "Los dos patitos", and others. As the “in” or good places change all the time, please ask your hotel to recommend one. You must have Provoleta asada (various toppings), empanadas y chorizos, at a minimum.

• The pizza place: Las Cuartetas: Corrientes 838 (very near the Opera

Theater). Tel: 4326- 0171

• the empanadas place is "El Cuartito", in Talcahuano St.,between

Paraguay y M. T. de Alvear streets.

• Cafe Tortoni on Av. de Mayo and the Richmond confiteria at

calle Florida 466, both classic places

• High Tea at the Alvear Palace Hotel (Av. Alvear 1891 –Tel: 4804-4031), in the Recoleta section.

Freddo ( a chain of ice cream shoppes), and have Sambayon granizado, dulce de leche, dulce de leche con banana, frutilla a la crema, y crema rusa ice cream!!! (Editor's note: this is true Argentine ice cream, their upscale stuff; I personally don't like it so when you go either ask for tastes or for the tiny cones....)

• The “in” place for ice cream in 2003 is Persicco’s.

• Also try Havanets (bocadillos de dulce de leche de Havana); this is

a type of candy, bought at Havanna stores; while there make sure you also try alfajores - a kind of cookie with a layer of dulce de leche in between – they come dipped in chocolate or wrapped in meringue (the purists eat the meringue ones, in silver paper).

• La Caballeriza, if you remember.(This is a true

Argentine steak house, kind of pricey but very in....)

• from 9/01 trip: La Bistecca – tenedor libre (all you can eat, very nice place, great food.

La Bistecca Botanico

Rep. Arabe Siria 3001

Tel: 4514-3220/21/22/23

botanico@labistecca.com

La Bistecca Madero

Av. Alicia M. de Justo 1890

Tel: 4514-4999/98/97

puertomadero@labistecca.com

 

 

• from 2/02 trip: Teatriz

- elegant and quiet, great food and attention

- Riobamba 1220 Tel: 4811-1915, fax: 4816-6655

-www.maus.com.ar/teatriz

• from 11/02 trip – steak house at Puerto Madero called Cabana Las Lilas

 

 

Azzurra, close to NCI-Conservative shul (great place to go for Shabbat services)

 

A terrific "blue collar' sports themed meat restaurant is El Pobre Luis. Near the soccer stadium. Great value meal, with Puerto Madera quality. (From Novick) Very local. In Belgrano.

 

Also, Cabrera. Great meat. Very local. In Belgrano, on the corner of Cabrera y Tanez (I think.)

 

.

 

 

 

 

Helpful Hints

 

• take a city tour to get oriented. They take about 3 hours I think, and the hotel can arrange it for you.

• the subways are a great and easy way to get around.

• Taxis are relatively inexpensive, but you should avoid hailing one. Use a private taxi service, ask your hotel. We use Mi Taxi 4931-1200.

 

Sightseeing

 

• don't waste time going to the Tigre nor to the Tren de

la Costa (both heavily promoted by the hotels), go to a Tango show, but not to La Ventana, a rather miserable place. Casa Blanca (Balcarce 668) is quite OK, if you can go to only one. But this usually depends on who is playing.

• a stroll through El Rosedal, in Palermo, and also an architectural tour of the central area. There may be special shows at the Museo Nacional, Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo. Another good museum is MALBA, Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires

• go to Recoleta (for cafes and for the City of the Dead/cemetery; if you are hungry go to the Munich restaurant there. Arts festival on weekends, ends around 4p I think, on the grounds near the museum.

• Galerias Pacifico, located at Florida y Cordoba, so they can admire the frescos in the center of the galeria

• Another luxury shopping area is Galeria Bullrich (Av

Libertador, between Libertad y Montevideo streets) Ed's note: this is beautiful but expensive; if you have time (it wouldn’t be my first priority) then go to look, don't think about buying souvenirs there.

• Teatro Colon, and see a function! Or behind the scenes tour during the day

* Gardel theatre for tango show (skip dinner, just the show)

• Puerto Madero

• Don't go to a soccer game

if you like architecture, be sure to see the waterworks building at Cordoba and Riobamba

 

Shopping

 

Leather Coats, wholesale/factory, not really made to measure but… Juan Carlos Deverill, Tinogasta 4212 (1417) Bs As Tel/fax: 4567-7797

 

Leather factory, cats etc not shoes or purses

Uruguay 469 10 – A

Tel: 4373-7354 (friends of Nora Blaistein)

Monday –Friday 10-7p

 

• On Calle Floria, Bettina and Maybe (851 Florida Street) are owned by Jews

• Sylvia y Mario

 

HOTELS

 

Wilton Palace, near Recoleta, 4 star

Hotel Plaza Francia, in Recoleta, 3 star

 

Outside of Bs As

 

Iguazu (Falls) en el border con Brasil

Salta, Tucuman, Jujuy - montañas, mas indio etc.

Mar del Plata

 

Nahuel Napi lago

Petit Moren 9 un glacier que sigue creciendo

Bariloche (que es lindo pero no por mas de dos días al maximo)

Ushuaia y el corrido hacia el norte por el costo

 

 

* there has been much talk about the rising crime rate in the city

because of the economic turmoil. Let me just say 1) it is nothing like

Brazil 2) the people there hear the same stuff about Manhattan. Just don't be flashy with money or jewels. I don't walk the streets late at night by myself, but I wouldn't do it here either.

* do not go to a soccer game, no matter what they tell you, unless you are in a first class box with some security. My cousins won't go, they won't let me go and my Spanish accent is good enough to make me sound like I'm from a northern province.

* La Recoleta - the still wealthy and aristocratic neighborhood. Be

sure to visit the city of the dead, the cemetery on Junin and Quintana

streets - it's unbelievable. Be sure to visit the cafes under the rubber

trees that cover a whole city block. I'm not exactly sure where they are, I think around Quintana and Ortiz or Alvear and Ortiz. The best of all of them, if you are going to have a meal (as opposed to coffee) is Munich.

 

• To have a proper British tea from the days when Britain was here, go to the very fancy hotel, Hotel Alvear for late afternoon tea. In the last few years, Buenos Aires has refurbished some old buildings in this neighborhood, housing some museums and restaurants.

* Calle Florida - pedestrian mall dating back about 100 years, where

the upper class used to shop, now it's a combination of wealthy and

tourists. Worth the walk, look up the buildings, see the people, etc.

Have a coffee at an old cafe, a throwback to the old British

presence is the Richmond Confiteria on Florida.

 

• Walk Florida from Santa Fe to Corrientes, but I'd walk a few more blocks to Peña, make a left and walk a block or two to the Plaza de Mayo. Be sure to enter Galerias Pacifico – to see the murals on the ceiling. There is a food court downstairs.

 

• Casa Rosada/Plaza de Mayo - the Pink House seat of government, a

colonial residence housing a museum - Cabildo, gov't buildings, and two

churches. Nearby on Rivadavia street, there is an amazing bank building - Banco de la Nacion. Plaza de Mayo is where people picket on a weekly basis to find the disappeared ones - Las madres del plaza de Mayo. This is the heart of Bs As. From the Plaza be sure to walk up Peña street away from the water, beautiful buildings. The national congress meets way up the street in El Congreso, more or less on the corner of Callao y Rivadavia.

 

• San Telmo - typical porteño neighborhood. They have a flea market in

the center on Plaza Dorrego, corner of Defense y Carlos Calvo on Sunday

mornings with lots of local antiques, new stuff, and usually a couple of old tango dancers and a tango player performing on the corner. This is a pilgrimage site for me, I go at least once every time I'm there. The prices used to be great, now that their economy is attached to the dollar, you can still find deals, just not as wonderful as before. There are four streets radiating off the plaza with great antique stores, antique Jewelry stores, phonographs, art deco furniture etc. Defense is a great street. "The" restaurant here is called "Antigua Tasca de Cuchilleros, on Carlos Calvo 319; tel: 4307-0594.

 

• El Colon theater - corner of Viamonte y Cerritos (which is the

little parallel side street to 9 de Julio). They do give tours, have the

hotel help you schedule one in English. For some reason, the don't

illuminate the hall on tours, so if you can actually buy tickets to see a show - opera, symphony, maybe even theatre, I can't remember - that's better (but it is more expensive).

• 5 de Mayo street - walk from Plaza de Mayo up (away from the water) for several blocks, this area was originally built by Spanish architects and was refurbished in 1992 by the gov't of Spain.

• Puerto Madero - is a series of old warehouses converted to new

stores and restaurants. If you are driving by just to see the port area,

fine. If you're dying for a steak meal, there is a good restaurant there. But it's low on my priority list.

• La Boca - colorful, formerly immigrant neighborhood; read the

history before you go otherwise you won't understand why it's worth going to. Main street now is Caminito.

• Palermo - city park, its grandeur has faded lately, but it's a nice green area in the city to escape to. Don't bother going to the zoo, it is depressing, but the botanical gardens are nice.

• 9 de Julio Street - the widest boulevard in the whole world, with an obelisk in the middle, take a cab ride at night to see all the neon, or during the day past the embassies. (It's named for my birthday but the guide books will tell you it is named for Argentina's independence day).

 

Restaurants - the places I have to suggest are old-time local jaunts, not necessarily the nicest restaurants in town. For that, you'll have to ask the concierge.

Pizza and Empanadas

* El Cuartito, on Parana Street

Pizza

Las Cuartetas on Corrientes

Los Immortales

Tango Shows

this changes over time, ask the concierge where to go. The traditional

places are "El Viejo Almacen" (geared for locals and tourists) and "La Casa Blanca". We were here with a group of 50 people from Atlanta in 1999. The tango clubs they went to were: 1) el Viejo Almacen, to see a show, 2) Senor Tango to see a show, 3) El Beso, if you want to go dancing....

 

Ice Cream - any of the Freddo's, but my mom thinks the one in the Recoleta is the best.

 

Asado - the beef.

Ask the concierge to recommend a place on the Costanera. This is the strip of land along the river and there are probably 20 places in a row, they all have basically the same menu but slightly different ambiances. If you live there, you know which one is currently better, that's why I'd ask the concierge.

 

There is also a good restaurant for asado down at Puerto Madero, a

refurbished series of warehouses at the port with lots of restaurants.

[Dochawk]

I decided to post them here since so many people asked for them. This one is even longer:

 

Below is a guide that my dad (a local) put together for his friends that you might find helpful. This is about touring in general, not specific to visiting the Jewish community.

 

Diana

 

 

 

BUENOS AIRES

April 2005

(these are some of my ideas; use the regular city guides for the usual tourist areas)

See the latest NYT article of 12/12/04 at http://www.nytimes.com/2004/12/12/travel/12going.html?oref=login. Interestingly enough, I do not know any of the hotels and restaurants they mention, except the El Querandi tango show, which I have not seen.

 

 

1) Palermo Hollywood, Palermo Soho and Las Cañitas

These are three areas in old neighborhoods that have become very fashionable, especially for young people, filled with restaurants and fun night life. During the day the old and often seedy buildings lose all their appeal. Most places have menus in English. Try to go with a friend or somebody who knows the city, if at all possible. From your hotel you must take a taxi (there are no respectable hotels in that area).

See map at http://www.palermonline.com.ar/mapa/index_zonas.htm

 

2) Take a ½ day bus tour of the city. Get tickets at your hotel. Try to get one that uses a 12-15 people van rather than a 45-seat bus. It will give a flavor of the city, and then you can go back to the places you liked best.

 

3) Rosedal (Rose Garden): in the middle of Palermo Park . There are occasional chamber music groups playing among the flowers, spec. on weekends and during the annual Rose Show. Walk around the lake and over the bridge (only one, you can’t miss it if you see the Palermo Lake ), a favorite place for newlyweds pictures. There is a second lake further out in the Palermo woods. Ask your hotel for info.

 

4) It is worth a tour of the Colon Theatre to see the main hall. Be sure to ask whether they'll turn the lights on in the main hall, because in the past they had tours with the lights off, except for a single large working bulb, and people had to hold hands in the darkness (I am not kidding you). Tickets at the Colon Theatre itself; they have tours in English. Schedule: Mondays to Fridays: 11, 12, 13, 14.30, 15 y 16 hrs. Saturdays: 9, 10.30, 11, 12, 13, 14.30, 15 y 16 hrs. Sundays: 11, 12, 13, 14 y 15 hrs. (according to their Web site: http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar/inicio.htm). It is quite worthwhile to see a performance, but unfortunately they do not sell tickets except at the ticket window. Hotels and concierges cannot get tickets that I know of, like in the USA , but perhaps a good tip may persuade one of the hotel people to stand in line for you. EDITOR’S NOTE: I THINK THE COLON IS CLOSED FOR RENOVATIONS FOR AT LEAST A YEAR SO I DON’T THINK YOU’LL BE ABLE TO VISIT, BUT SEE THE OUTSIDE AS IT IS A BEAUTIFUL BUILDING.

 

5) You must see the Recoleta Cemetery , in the Recoleta neighborhood (what else!). If you can find someone to explain that place it would be much better, because it is indeed unique. Evita Peron is there, but not in her own mausoleum, but rather in the Duarte family mausoleum (her maiden name before marrying Peron).

 

6) The Metropolitan Cathedral, in the Plaza de Mayo square, is not an interesting building, except that San Martin (the Argentinean Washington) is buried there. Turn right when you enter to see his mausoleum. On another side of the square is the old Cabildo; look at it from the outside, as there is nothing inside except a couple of old tables and chairs. On another side, facing the Cabildo (and also the Congress Bldg, at the end of Avenida de Mayo) it is the “Pink House”, the office of the President (he does not live there).

 

7) Walk along Florida St. , a pedestrian place. Do visit the Galerías Pacífico ( Florida between Viamonte and Cordoba Sts.), the most (or second most) elegant of the galerias (malls). The central dome has frescoes by some of the most famous Argentinean artists (all of them dead), and some (e.g., by Antonio Berni) are indeed important, in the strong socio-political tradition of the Mexican Diego Rivera. If my memory serves me well (it may not), one of the painters was Raúl Soldi, who also painted the central cupola of the Colon Theatre and the ceiling of Galería Santa Fe (I cannot remember whether that fresco is still extant).

Soldi also filled with frescoes a small church (the Santa Ana Chapel) in the suburb of Glew (a 45 min. drive from BA), which would be an absolutely obligatory tourist stop if the chapel would be in BA. Nearby there is a Soldi Museum, which opens daily from 9 am to 6 pm and may at times open on request. They are very accommodating, and you should buy at least a few postcards if they open it for you after regular hours. See http://www.soldi.com.ar/glew/.

Does it show that I love his paintings?

 

8) You must absolutely have a Freddo ice cream. They have multiple locations. Try Sambayón Granizado, Dulce de Leche in one of its many incarnations, Crema Rusa, etc.etc.

Also try Copitos de Dulce de Leche at the Havanna shops. They also sell “alfajores”, which are two cookies held together by dulce de leche).

ARGENTINA IS NOT THE PLACE FOR PEOPLE DIETING. Diabetics must exert extra controls, unfortunately.

 

****Men should have their shoes shined by street “shoe shiners”. It costs 1 U$S and you don’t often do it in USA .

 

9) The train stations Retiro and Constitución are very interesting, large buildings built by the English almost 100 years ago. Do not go alone or at night, but during the day it is quite OK, unless they are on strike.

 

10) For those interested, on the side of Retiro Station, on Avenida del Libertador, there is a very interesting (to me, anyway) Railway Museum . It does not have rolling stock, but has many interesting old pieces, timetables, telegraphs, etc. It is open somewhat erratically, and I doubt the concierge will find a telephone number to call in advance.

11) El Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (the building was originally a water pumping station) has a rather mediocre permanent collection, but temporary exhibits can be quite good. www.mnba.org.ar

The Museum of Modern Art is not worth visiting unless you have ample time.

There is a new Museum of Latin American Art (MALBA) which I have not seen yet. The architecture is striking and the collection, supposedly an excellent one, is the private collection of Mr. Constantini, who also paid for the building! 3415 Av. Figueroa Alcorta ( Palermo neighborhood). From USA , direct dial: (011-54-11) 4345-0331. www.malba.org.ar.

 

12) The Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo has some cute things and also good exhibits. I want you to think that the building was a private residence! The building of the Círculo Militar (across from the Plaza San Martin) and the Cancillería (Foreign Affairs Ministry, in the other side of the Plaza) were also private residences!!!!

 

13) A few interesting buildings:

a) In the corner of Tucumán y Talcahuano Streets there is an office building that has a very old corner married to a very modern building. The old portion was saved from an old building that was torn down and the building is striking. It is across the street from the Palacio de Justicia (Supreme Court Bldg.).

b) The Obras Sanitarias Bldg. occupies the entire city block delimited by Córdoba, Río Bamba, Viamonte y Ayacucho Sts. and is probable the best example of Portuguese Renaissance “bicos” architecture in the world. All the outside walls are completely covered by imported Portuguese ceramic tiles. It really has water tanks inside!

(“Bicos” refers to pyramid-like tiles in the outside walls pointing away from the building, as it to simulate defending the building from outside attack. There is an apocryphal story that the ceramic tiles were originally for a Brasilian building, and that when they run out of money the Argentineans bought the entire shipment of tiles; it is not so).

c) You must visit the Librería El Ateneo, in Santa Fe Ave. 1860. It is indeed spectacular. An old theater (the Splendid) was recycled into a bookstore. After you browse, have coffee in the theater stage!

d) The Teatro Nacional Cervantes, in the corner of Cordoba and Libertad Streets is a very ornate Spanish style building, copy of the University and College of Alcalá de Henares (Spain).The inside is much more simple, just look at the outside. Just across the street, over Libertad St. is the most important synagogue in the country (we got married there), but it has fallen on hard times, as most of the Jews have moved away from the area. Next to the synagogue there is a Jewish museum (need to make arrangements in advance due to security reasons).

 

14) If you have time, have a traditional English 5 o’clock High Tea at the Alvear Palace Hotel. It’s not Harrods of London, but close enough (no cucumber sandwiches, though).

 

15) On Sundays there is an antique fair in Plaza Dorrego, in the San Telmo neighborhood. Extremely popular with locals and tourists alike, very crowded. One of the antique dealers store has the best collection of Art Nouveau items I have ever seen. WATCH FOR PICKPOCKETS, HERE AND EVERYWHERE!

 

16) Around the Plaza de Mayo and the Pink House (our White House equivalent) there is an area of several blocks of very old buildings, with quite a history. You need a guide, however. It is not worth your time, unless you are into local history. Check with your concierge.

 

15) Avenida de Mayo, between the Plaza de Mayo and Pellegrini Sts., is the “Spanish” area, with great Spanish restaurants. La Casa del Jamón is an excellent Spanish restaurant in Cerrito St. which is not at all like the Madrid ones. A typical Spanish (and therefore Argentinean) dish is ”puchero a la española” (a steaming boiled dish with meat, chicken, pork, sausages, corn, other vegetables, etc).

 

16) You will be told to visit Puerto Madero, and you should. It is the old port where ships (obviously small ones) used to unload cargo. The cargo warehouses (all brick buildings) were recycled, and we walk there every time we visit. They have lots of restaurants, but beware that prices there can be quite expensive. There is a Freddo ice cream parlor in that area, of course. Do not fail to see and walk on Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer (Bridge of the Woman) across Dique 3 (inspired by the final position of a couple dancing the tango).

 

 

TANGO

There are several places geared to tourist groups, that have tango with an orchestra and dancers, most of which are trained in classical ballet (no self-respecting Argentine dances like the ones you’ll see in these shows). They usually include a steak dinner. The food is reasonably good and the music average (forget the dancers!).

 

1) Señor Tango: Avoid it. Used to be a great place, but it has gone downhill. Almost strictly for bus-filling groups. Also avoid Casablancay La Ventana like the plague.

2) La Casa de Aníbal Troilo: This is real, not for tourists. The dinner is fairly good, and the music show is excellent. We went last October and February, and we liked it both times. It goes on until very very late. Carlos Calvo 2540. Ph: 4308-1003/4. Reservations recommended. www.anibaltroilo.com

3) El Viejo Almacén. This is a very old, traditional place in San Telmo neighborhood, Balcarce and Independencia Sts. Used to be the premier tango place in BA before the tango became popular again about 10 years ago, when it was the refuge for the cognoscenti. We used to go there because all the big time tango people would play there, but not so much any more. The music is real, but lately the shows have been on the poor side. Dinner is in a building just across the street, not in the same place as the show. Dinner at 8 pm , show at 10 pm , and it lasts 1 hr. 50 min., not near as long as Aníbal Troilo’s place. Reservations recommended. www.viejo-almacen.com.ar

4) Michelangelo. Balcarce 433. This used to be a great place, and we went there many times, but it closed some years ago. The BA newspapers say it is being renovated, but in one web site they offer shows, so it may be open already.

5) There are many more, which you can check on http://www.tangol.com/asp/buenos_aires.asp.

 

MILONGAS: another type of tango places, less luxurious, not for tourists but for “porteños” (people from the city of BA ) to dance. You can usually eat something simple, see the people dance and sometimes take lessons as well. There are many (La Viruta Tango – Fray Jose Maria de Oro 1872, C.C. Torcuato Tasso - (Defensa 1575), Re-Fa-Si - Humberto Primo 1783), etc. Usually music is provided by a DJ.

 

Probably the most classical one is the Confitería Ideal (Suipacha 384), a café almost 100 years old, where people dance in the second floor on Mo-We-Fr from 3pm to 10pm , and Saturdays the Milonga Ideal from11pm to 4 am Sunday. Live orchestra performs there only on Sundays from 6pm to midnight . This place has seen better times, and it has not been renovated yet.

 

NOTE FOR WOMEN: if you are invited by a local to dance in a milonga place (sometimes also called “tanguería”), it is expected that you will dance with the same man that invited you for the 3 or 4 pieces that play almost continuously (like cycles of tango-milonga-waltz, etc). You will notice that couples remain on the dance floor, and do not return to their tables until the “cycle” is completed. Do not go back to your table after the first piece unless he escorts you back, as it sometimes happen when he realizes that your tango skills are not as good as he thought. This obviously applies to the places where they play cycles. It is altogether simpler if you decline the invitation in English.

 

RESTAURANTS

1) You can eat well almost anywhere in BA. Price is not necessarily an indication of a good meal. Many neighborhood restaurants provide superb food. Try beef (not veal) “milanesa a caballo con papas fritas” (breaded beef cutlets with fried eggs on top and French fries-you do not have to have the eggs, just don’t say the “a caballo” words). Most neighborhood restaurants do not take reservations, and the waiting time can be quite long, which the porteños accept with only slight grumbling. Call ahead to check. Restaurants OPEN at 8 pm , and at that time you can always get a table. However, most bars have hot food, if you get caught unprepared.

 

2) For barbecue we like “Los Dos Patitos”, a restaurant at the end of the Avenida Costanera (the riverside avenue), toward Pampa St. Try meat empanadas (meat pies), Provolone al asador (Provolone cheese on the grill), and meat as follows:

a) bife de chorizo (N.York strip), which you can get “con morrones” (large red peppers-not hot or spicy but on oil) o “a caballo”, and with fries or mashed potatoes, or

b) barbecue, which include different meat pieces, or

c) lomito al asador (filet mignon).

Then, for dessert, a very classical one is “flan con dulce de leche” o “flan con dulce de leche y crema”.

 

3) A very popular barbecue place is “La Caballeriza” in the Puerto Madero area, but the last couple of times we were very disappointed. We no longer go there. (Los Dos Patitos, on the other hand, is very consistent and reliable). Need reservations at their Puerto Madero location.

 

4) We do not really have Italian restaurants, as Argentinean and Italian cuisines are one and the same, due to the large Italian population. Any restaurant, even the most miserable one, will have pasta. Same holds true for Spanish cuisine.

 

5) For my money the most sophisticated restaurant in BA is Teatriz, Rio Bamba St. 1220, near Arenales St. Phone: 4811-1915. Make reservations. Some government ministers and press people may be seen there, except that you will not recognize them. Look at the curtain-like front window. Don’t miss it, it’s definitely worth it. Relatively expensive, may be 10-20 USD (if I remember) without drinks or wine. Reservations recommended. http://www.adondevamos.com/restau/Teatriz/336/?

 

6) The Alvear Palace Hotel has a reputedly superb restaurant, but I have not been there.

 

7) “Te Mataré Ramirez” is an “aphrodisiac” restaurant, expensive, with lots of atmosphere. The menu is extremely erotic and funny at the same time (e.g.,“Your virginal eyes and all-knowing tongue” dish refers to “lascivious” smoked salmon slices). Unfortunately, they do not have menus in English. Paraguay 4062, ph. 4831-9156. Make reservations and be ready to eat from memory, as the lightning is rather dim. Live music, but quiet nevertheless.

 

8) The “Villa Hipica” is a very sophisticated restaurant in the training area of the San Isidro Jockey Club racetrack, at Diego Carman 222. 4763-5533/5577. http://www.villahipica.com.ar. Rather expensive by local standards, about U$S15-17 without wine. Well worth the trip from BA, 30 min. or so.

 

9) “Tomo I” is probably the most expensive restaurant in BA (about 30USD, without alcohol), but it’s worth it if you want cold melon soup with berries, etc. In the mezzanine of the Crown Plaza Panamericano Hotel, Carlos Pellegrin 551.

 

So far, I have had the best meals both at the Villa Hipica and Teatriz.

 

 

 

TELEPHONES

1) From USA , direct dial is 011(direct dial international) + 54 ( Argentina country code) + 11 ( Buenos Aires city code) + eight numbers.

2) To dial a cellular number from USA dial 011-549-11 + 7 or 8 phone numbers.

3) However, if you dial a cellular phone FROM WITHIN Argentina , the 11 is replaced by a 15. Of course, use neither the 011- nor the 54 prefixes.

3) Some cell numbers have 7 rather than 8 numbers, if I am not mistaken.

4) To dial from a wired phone to another wired one, fortunately, is quite simple. Dial the 8 numbers, that’s all.

5) Buenos Aires , as well as the rest of the country, is divided between two landline companies, Telecom and Telefonica; that should not make a difference. However, there are several incompatible cellular companies.

6) You cannot use any of the American phones there (there may be a GSA system there, however, as I called a BA cellular phone from Atlanta and they answered from France), because even if the phone is compatible (you would need to change the chip inside it anyway) you would have to open an account with the local company, which I would NOT suggest you do unless burocratic nightmares are your favorite form of sadomasochistic entertainment. The easiest way to get a cellular phone may be to rent one of the very expensive phones they offer at the airport, with very expensive rates to match.

 

Easy, isn’t it? The phone system there is quite confusing to me, so be sure you ask exactly how to dial each particular cellular number, because it may be different whether you dial it from a wired or a cellular phone.

 

 

SOME COMMENTS ON SHOPPING FOR CLOTHES

Always reinforce the buttons when you get back, because the Argentinean sewing threads do not last long.

 

Be absolutely sure you like and will use what you buy, because you cannot return merchandise for cash or credit card credit except in very unusual and extremely rare circumstances. All you can ever hope for is a store credit, and exchange hours are usually limited (e.g., only on Wednesday from 2 to 5 pm , or Saturday from 10 to 12). Not even American Express will protect you here in these issues. Think that everything you buy has a “you brake it, you buy it” label attached to it..

 

They will tell you that you should buy leather stuff, and you definitely should. They are indeed good leather clothes, but be aware that if you are looking for the extremely soft leather that Italians are famous for, you will not find it in BA. They do not process leather the same way, although I was recently told they now do it just as well. Last year my children bought several leather coats directly from a manufacturer and they were very happy with the models and prices.

 

Furs: same as leather. The most common is NUTRIA (it is somewhat similar to beavers). If you show nutria pelts or coats to a New York furrier, he will tell you that the Argentineans do not “work” the furs as well as in USA . However, to a non-professional, they look very good, and I would not hesitate for a moment to buy it.

We do not have domestic MINK that I know of, so those imported furs will be much more expensive than nutrias, and I would rather buy it in USA .

They have very good FOX furs, which become more desirable the further south they hunt for them, so Patagonian fox is very good, and lasts forever, but Fueginian fox (from Tierra del Fuego) is even better. My wife has a fox coat that she still uses in snow after 20 years or so (I don’t want to hear about her husband being cheap). It is essentially rainproof, and you only shake it a couple of times to get rid of all the water and snow.

The downtown fur shops (stick to the ones near Plaza San Martin, around the Marriott Plaza Hotel) copy the most recent models from Europe, which turn in USA one year later. DO NOT enter the shops that have hucksters in the door trying to get you inside. If you know locals that can guide you to the people that actually make the clothes, the prices will obviously be better, but it will take more time to go from one end of the city to another, and they will not speak English.

 

The most exclusive, and therefore expensive shopping center is Patio Bullrich, across from the Cesar Park Hotel ( Posadas 1255), followed by the Galerias Pacifico. Patio Bullrich has some beautiful silver or silverplate items, and I assume the price will be commensurate with their English-speaking sales force. However, for home display it may just be worth your paying two to five times the going prices elsewhere.

 

SILVER

Juan Carlos Pallarols is a superb sterling silver silversmith (he also makes crystal chandeliers, interestingly enough, sold exclusively at 46 E. 65 St., New York , NY 10021 212-452-2866). His shop is in Defensa 1039, but the workshop is in Defensa 1094 (a very old house, in one corner of Dorrego Square , above a bar, only by previous arrangement). For common sterling silver pieces such as daggers, or “facones”, mate containers, mirrors, etc, go to the store, but if you ever want something really original (and therefore expensive), let me know and I will call him to introduce you. Juan Carlos will do the design, but the business is now run by his son Adrian, which I believe is the 9th generation in the same business. Juan Carlos showed me a Pope’s chalice, made by his great-grandfather, which had been sent from the Vatican for “repairs”! You may need to order something unique for J.C. to meet you, because he is no longer there on a daily basis. See http://www.pallarols.com.ar/ (the English pages do not seem to work).

There are several real silversmiths of “sterling” (sorry!) reputations, but they make single pieces, and are difficult to find, as they do not advertise. Some recommended by Pallarols are: Ferreira (02284-426096), Dragui (02326-454515/454219), Bravo (03447-470458) and Condurso (03447-470458).

A few of them are in San Antonio de Areco, a small town just over an hour from downtown BA, but it’s not worth your time unless you have it to spare.

 

SOME PRECAUTIONS

1) Never take a taxi on the street except during daytime and if there are 3 people traveling together (the third should seat in the front passenger seat). Call a taxi by phone instead (Radiotaxi). We always use Mi Taxi (Tel: 4931-1200; they have English speaking dispatchers) but there are lots of companies. Radiotaxies charge the same price than regular taxies. Lock all doors upon entering the car. On the other hand, buses and Subte (subway) are very safe and cheap. Subways operate until 11 pm or thereabouts.

 

2) Avoid La Boca and train stations areas during the night unless going with a large group.

 

3) Do not use jewelry or expensive watches. Do not ignore this warning (do not ignore my earlier

warning about pickpockets, either). Women are to keep their purses under their arms, or otherwise securely in their hands. Do no carry a purse on the street side of the sidewalk.

 

5) Always take with you a small amount of money (about 50 pesos), to calm down a thief, if you are unlucky enough to be singled out.

 

6) Do not walk alone after dark, except in the best areas (Recoleta, Av. Callao y Santa Fe , etc). Only do it in groups of at least three or four persons. My wife and I walk all over downtown without problems, but you should not walk alone in downtown Lavalle St. at night, or around Plaza de Mayo. Stay north of Cordoba St. and you’ll be OK.

 

7) Check with the hotel to be sure to avoid the “piqueteros”. These are groups that daily disrupt movement of people through the city in search of social handouts from the government. They are not dangerous but may hold up traffic for several hours. They tend to be around Congress, the Pink House, downtown ministries (Labor, Economy, etc). Their “protests” have decreased considerably as of January 2005.

 

8) Find out from the hotel whether there may be strikes of some sort that may affect your plans for the day.

 

LASTLY, ENJOY THE CITY

[Dochawk]

That I just posted about 8 pages worth of recommendations for Buenos Aires in a topic titled Montevideo. Hopefully people know how to use the search function, because I don't want to wait for my computer to send them again.

[Merlees]

Thank you for everything. I just printed 14 pages which I am sure will come in most handy.

[San Diego Ellie]

Dochawk, thanks for wonderful BA info. We are staying in BA for four days after our SA/Antarctica cruise on the Star Princess, and I will find this information so very useful. I have printed it all.

Ellie

[NJ Gal]

We will be on the Infiniti & visiting Montevideo on a Sat. in Feb. The ship has a Jewish heritage tour listed, but on checking my calendar, I noticed that we will be there on a Sat which is the Sabbath. Does anyone know how the ship handles this tour on a Sat,? Is it canceled at the last minute? Has anyone experienced this problem in the past? I would appreciate any comments as I know most synagogues will not allow a tour on a Sat.

 

NJ Gal-Evelyn

[Merlees]

Hi Dochawk,

 

I emailed all three women in Buenos for a Jewish tour. Evelyn's email no longer exists. Susana didn't write back, but Maria did and we have been in correspondence ever since. She seems like a lovely person and we have booked her for a tour of BA including the Jewish section. The Jewish synogogue is not open on Fridays (our touring day) except for Shabbat services. Since I really wanted to see the synogogue, we're going to services that night. Unforturnately, I won't be able to take pictures, but it will be in my memory. Thank you for all your infomation. It was extremely helpful.

[the2cruisers]

Hi -

I took the Jewish tour in Montevideo earlier this year and it was very worthwhile! Our tour guide was named Fanny Margolis and she was extremely knowledgeable, spoke perfect English, and she is Jewish! Fanny's personal email is:

NFirst@Netgate.com.uy

She should be able to tell you how to book a tour on your own if your ship is not offering this tour as an option.

 

This tour was the ship's tour offered by Celebrity (it was $48 pp for a half-day tour). We almost filled 2 buses.

 

I only wish I had left more money at each of the synagogues we visited. The holocaust memorial at oceanside was very moving.

 

Safe journey to you all!

Liz

Hi Liz,

I've just joined this Board within the last hour! We'll be on the Infinity leaving Buenos Aires on 1/8/08, but they're not offering the Jewish Heritage Tour on this trip! I just emailed Fanny and asked if she might be able to take us on herself. I'm waiting to hear back from her. Thanks for sharing that information. I'll keep you posted on the results.

Tobie in L.A.

[Merlees]

We are on the Infinity right now. We´re in Ushuaia. Having a great time. We used Maria in Buenos Aires. She is not Jewish, but took us to the Jewish section and told us a lot about Jewish life in BA. We went to Shabbat services on Friday night. It was wonderful. The services lasted 1 hour and they saang the whole time. It was beautiful.

 

I´ll write more when we get back home after December 24th. Let me know if you have any questions.

[Mapu]

We are on the Infinity right now. We´re in Ushuaia. Having a great time. We used Maria in Buenos Aires. She is not Jewish, but took us to the Jewish section and told us a lot about Jewish life in BA. We went to Shabbat services on Friday night. It was wonderful. The services lasted 1 hour and they saang the whole time. It was beautiful.

 

I´ll write more when we get back home after December 24th. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

Just wondering where you went to Shabbat services and whether there was any difficulty going to synagogues on your own in general. We will be in BA next month for 4 nights before a cruise. Gail

[the2cruisers]

Thanks so much for your reply. I hope you're having a great time. What's the weather been like? I think it's hot in Buenos Aires and probably pretty cold where you are now. What kind of clothes did you take?

 

Thanks again,

Tobie

The2cruisers

[Merlees]

We went to the Libertod (?) Synagogue, walking distance from the Marriott on Florida St. We needed a passport. We were asked all sorts of questions and then they let us in. Lots of security.

 

Yes it was quite hot in BA. <Now it is in the 60s but quite windy on Magdelena <island where we saw over 140,000 penguins. it was great. Bring layers of clothes. I am wearing 4 layers! A few days ago it was very cold on deck and were told not to walk outside unless prepared. <it was about 40 degrees and extremely windy. Hopé this helps.

 

This keyboard is strange--sorry for the typos.