Explorer - being evacuated

[PennyAgain]

P.S.

I have been chocked by how the news casters seem to be trying to make this into a catastrophe. Headings like "voyage of a lifetime turns into cruise from hell". The insistence the the temperature were -5C, etc.

On the BBC interview, the reporter kept asking, "so, were you very scarred", "was there anybody in panic", despite the fact that the passenger kept repeating that nobody was in panic, the evacuation happened in order and calm, nobody was shivering, because they not only had warm clothes of their own, but were wrapped in protective jackets, the captain was excellent, they were kept well informed at all times, even in the lifeboats, the Chileans were effective and friendly...

 

It's almost as if the news people are disappointed this didn't turn into a major disaster...

 

This is bothering me a lot!

 

I am bothered by those who were waiting for worse news.

[roberts2005]

During the previos week the daytime temperature was in the mid to high 30's. It is is possible that the temperature dropped below freezing at night.

[Tia Serena]

During the previous week the daytime temperature was in the mid to high 30's. It is is possible that the temperature dropped below freezing at night.

 

Yes, this is true. All news site make a point of calling attention to the subzero temperature. It was probably very uncomfortable, cold and wet. However nobody had hypothermia nor frostbite. There were no medical conditions at all...

 

Apart from the scary "little detail" that the ship was sinking, those are conditions that passengers could encounter during a Zodiac cruise... ...and of course they would have an option of not going on a regular Zodiac cruise. This open boat tour in the middle of night was absolutely mandatory...

 

I don't want to make little of the danger they were in, or of their ordeal, but to call attention that this was a picture perfect abandon ship operation, where everything went according to the plan, and to the countless drills the crew go through. (Passengers go through the safety drill only once, as they board the ship. Crew do it not only every cruise, but there are many other drills for crew only that are scheduled throughout the season.)

[julieanne]

The crew did a fabulous job. I can remember the Old Lady being around for a long time. I wanted to cry when I saw her at 90 degree list. I am thankful for all the info provided here. I, too, was skeptical about that "fist sized" hole.

[Fairsky]

I was on the Explorer in Jan of 1996 and was very sorry to see her sink...I was in Panama when I looked up and saw my old little red ship..I do not understand Spanish, so didn't know why they were showing pictures of her..When I was on her she was an old ship, but I loved her..the crew was great as were the naturalists...I still have my pictures slides and video of that awesome trip...

[daisyatl]

Just curious if anyone knows if most lifeboats are not covered like those that they showed on the Explorer. I have never been on one or even seen one so I don't know. Do ships that have zodiacs also have lifeboats? Sorry if that is a dumb question.

[CruisenOne]

Just curious if anyone knows if most lifeboats are not covered like those that they showed on the Explorer. I have never been on one or even seen one so I don't know. Do ships that have zodiacs also have lifeboats? Sorry if that is a dumb question.

 

In this day and age -- Most Cruise Ships, if not all, have covered Life Boats.

 

Ships that have Zodiacs also have Life Boats.

[2552phxcrzr]

We were on the Prof Molchanov on our Quark expedition cruise in Jan 07. In addition to the zodiacs, we had lifeboats. The lifeboats were covered. In fact, during the muster drill, not only did we don our life vests, but we also went into the lifeboats (they were not launched) to get a better sense of the whole procedure in case of an emergency. Very cozy inside, with not much room to spare to bring anything extra but the necessities (like meds). We were glad to see everyone taking the muster drill very seriously.

[Tarheelbelle]

Oh, I totally agree with your deduction, sorry if it sounded that I was contesting it.

My point is that that if they had the watertight doors closed, etc, then it is almost certain that the hole is not "fist sized" and spans more than one compartment.

 

I have sailed on the Explorer on the past, and they have always been very proud of their ice reinforced hull... but the old lady was very old.

 

My other point is that there is a lot that is not being, like the ground of the Nordkapp on the rock in the entrance to Deception Island in January this year.

 

On the other hand a news site from Chile reports that the ship is not in danger of sinking and that they are dispatching the ice breaker Veil to try and salvage the ship, and a plane to fly the passengers from Frei Station at King George Island.

 

http://www.terra.cl/noticias/index.cfm?id_cat=302&id_reg=882762

 

On the photos on this site, she seems to be under power, sailing backwards.

Does anyone know if this salvage attempt was successful?

[CruiseIsGood]

It was not. She sank.

[Tia Serena]

IAATO Update

 

Incident involving the M/S Explorer

 

25 November 2007

 

0600 hrs GMT

 

 

 

 

 

The Vessel M/S Explorer

 

At 03:20 GMT M/S Explorer issued a distress call from position 62° 23’ 32’’ S, 57° 16’ 09’’ W Bransfield Strait. The vessel was in 500 meters of water but was drifting due to wind and weather. Reports indicate that she was holed by ice on the starboard side. The M/S Explorer is operated by IAATO member G.A.P Adventures. After initial attempts to contain the damage, the order was given to abandon ship. The ship’s entire complement of 91 passengers, 54 crew and 9 staff (154 in total) were evacuated safely to the ship’s lifeboats and Zodiacs.

 

Three IAATO vessels, M/V National Geographic Endeavour, M/V Nordnorge, and M/V Antarctic Dream were closest to M/S Explorer, were contacted immediately and proceeded towards the scene. The M/V National Geographic Endeavour and M/V Nordnorge both arrived on the scene within a few hours. Passengers, staff and some crew waited in lifeboats for a period of 4 hours. The M/V Nordnorge provided the initial command response control centre. All M/S Explorer personnel were subsequently transferred to the M/V Nordnorge by 0730 local time on November 23. The work of Captain Arvid Hansen, the officers, staff and crew of M/V Nordnorge, and the Hurtigruten ground staff, Captain Oliver Kruess and the officers, staff and crew of MV National Geographic Endeavour and Lindblad Expeditions, has been outstanding with regard to their professionalism, speed and efficiency of their response to the emergency.

 

The passenger and staff nationalities included: 2 Argentines, 10 Australians, 2 Belgians, 24 British, 12 Canadians, 1 Chinese, 3 Danes, 17 Dutch, 1 French, 1 German, 2 Hong Kong, 4 Irish, 1 Japanese, 4 Swiss, 14 Americans, 1 Colombian and 1 Swede. The captain of the ship is Swedish and the majority of the crew consisted of 45 Filipinos, 3 Swedes, 2 Bulgarians, 2 New Zealanders, and 1 Pole.

 

The M/V Nordnorge proceeded to Maxwell Bay, King George Island, where all of the Explorer’s passengers, staff and crew disembarked by 2200 hrs local time on November 23.

 

The Chilean and Uruguayan governments kindly granted permission and assistance for all passengers, staff and crew to stay overnight on November 23 and if necessary the 24th at both Frei/Teniente Marsh and Artigas Stations. A group of 77 passengers and 2 crew arrived in Punta Arenas on November 24 and another group will mostly likely fly, weather permitting, on Nov. 25. G.A.P has established a substantial assistance program in Punta Arenas when the personnel from the ship arrive. Accommodations have been arranged in Punta Arenas and flights home from there are currently being scheduled. Questionnaires are being distributed to the passengers as to what their wishes are in terms of their travel arrangements. In addition to the ship's doctor, one additional doctor and counsellor are also available to treat the passengers should that be required. All passports were removed from the ship and passengers will be in possession of their own passports. Several embassies have provided representatives in Punta Arenas to further assist.

 

National Program Vessel and Helicopter Assistance

 

Although not reported officially to IAATO, we understand that the Brazilian vessel, R/V Ary Rongel preceded to the area to recover the lifeboats initially, and Chilean vessel I/B Oscar Viel proceeded to the scene to assist in operational or salvage needs. Chile’s Naval helicopters were also present and over flew the area several times throughout the last few days. It is unconfirmed whether anyone had actually watched the vessel “sink” or not. There remains a slight possibility that the vessel simply flipped over and is sitting subsurface upside down. The vessel could remain upside down for a significant period of time. Due to current and wind conditions in the area the M/S Explorer could “drift for sometime towards Elephant Island. G.A.P is now seeking verification from various sources on whether or not anyone saw the vessel actually sink. In the meantime all vessels sailing in this area should be aware of the potential navigational obstruction. If other vessels were in attendance, IAATO would like it extend it’s thanks for assistance.

 

Possible Environmental Impacts

 

In terms of environmental implications, the vessel uses MGO (Marine Gas Oil) fuel, and as the incident occurred in open water with an estimated depth of 500m, it is expected that any fuel seepage will disperse promptly with no adverse effects on the environment. There is concern regarding lube oil, plastics and other pollutants.

 

The request for IAATO vessels passing the area 62º 23’ 32” S, 57º 16’ 09” W to monitor, report and collect any marine debris, flotsam or pollution, and to monitor and report landing sites for any debris or indication of pollution has been circulated to all vessels and companies and remains in place for the duration of the season.

 

 

Contact Information: G.A.P Adventures: http://www.gapadventures.com (Toronto, Canada, Eastern Standard time).

 

Susan Hayes | Vice-President, Marketing

 

G.A.P Adventures

 

Worldwide Small Group Adventures, Safaris & Expeditions

 

19 Charlotte Street, Toronto, ON, Canada M5V 2H5

 

416 263 4695 | 1 800 465 5600 | fax 416 260 1888

 

susanh@gap.ca

 

G.A.P. Adventures has been an IAATO Member since 2005. Their vessel the M/S Explorer began offering tourist trips in Antarctica since 1970 under the management of several IAATO companies.

 

G.A.P is permitted to travel to Antarctica by the Canadian Government/Environment Canada.

 

 

G.A.P Adventures and M/S Explorer Statistics

 

Capacity: 108 passengers, 65 crew

 

Length: 72.8 meters

 

Width: 14.0 meters

 

Draft: 4.48

 

Gross Tons: 2398

 

Double Hull, Ice Class rating DNV Ice A

 

The vessel was certified to operate by numerous overarching international regulations which include the ship’s registry, Det Norske Veritas (DNV), ISM (International, Classification Society and Port State Inspections etc.).

 

M/S Explorer received its full term (5 year) International Safety Management Certificate (ISM) from Classification Society, Lloyds Register, acting on behalf of the Flag State. In July 2007 the vessel underwent a scheduled dry dock which was completed in Las Palmas on October 21, 2007. All safety features were checked and any work found to be necessary was carried out under the supervision of Classification Society, DNV. This work included a “5 year test of lifeboats and lifeboat davits”, including weight tests. A Passenger Ship Safety Certificate was then issued by DNV before leaving dry dock.

 

 

About IAATO

 

Contact Information: iaato@iaato.org, Denise Landau, Executive Director/IAATO. +1 970 704 1047, +1970 704 9660 (Colorado, USA, Mountain Standard Time)

 

IAATO is a member organization founded in 1991 to advocate, promote and practice safe and environmentally responsible private sector travel to the Antarctic. IAATO currently has 99 members. IAATO Members work together to develop, adopt and implement operational standards that mitigate potential environmental impacts. Numerous guidelines have been adopted over the last 17 years that have proven to be successful methods in avoiding impacts. Those include but are not limited to: site specific guidelines, site selection criteria, passenger to staff ratios, limiting numbers of passengers ashore, boot washing guidelines and the prevention of the transmission of alien organisms, wilderness etiquette, garbage policy, ship scheduling and vessel communication procedures, emergency medical evacuation procedures, emergency contingency plans, reporting procedures, marine wildlife watching guidelines, station visitation policies and more.

 

In addition IAATO members agreed several years ago regarding an emergency contingency plan to ensure safety of passengers and crew. These procedures were followed during this incident.

 

This is the first incident of its kind with a specially designed tourist vessel in the last 50 years of Antarctic tourism. Very few incidents have occurred since IAATO began.

 

For Tourism Trends and Company Information see:

 

ATCM XXX IP121 Overview of Tourism http://www.iaato.org/info.html

 

Tourism Statistics: http://www.iaato.org/tourism_stats.html

 

IAATO is requesting its Member Vessels passing the area 62° 23’ 32’’ S, 57°16’ 09’’ W monitor, report and collect any marine debris, flotsam or pollution. In addition Member Vessels are requested to monitor and report throughout the whole 2007-08 season, landing sites for any debris or indication of pollution which may drift ashore.

 

In addition IAATO has sent out an IAATO wide alert and to National Programs advising of the potential of the ship being subsurface.

 

IAATO will continue to work closely with GAP and all vessels to monitor the situation.

 

Reports sent to IAATO on November 24, 2007

 

* At (19.00 hrs UTC -3). IAATO vessel: M/V Professor Molchanov/Oceanwide Expeditions arrived at the site. They reported that the weather throughout the day included force 6-8 winds with periodic blowing snow and unexpected pack ice. There was an oil spill of approximately one square nm loosely estimated - at position 62-24 S, 57-12 W. Photographs were taken. The Chilean Navy was also in the area patrolling by vessel and helicopter

[minke]

This link is to a photolog that is a riveting read by a UK survivor who is a trained Naval Architect. You do need to read the full story attached to each photograph, it is very descriptive. Copy & paste in your browser :-

[Tia Serena]

This link is to a photolog that is a riveting read by a UK survivor who is a trained Naval Architect. You do need to read the full story attached to each photograph, it is very descriptive. Copy & paste in your browser :-

 

Thank you so much for posting this link!

[Tarheelbelle]

Thank you for posting this. It is quite an eye opener. I have to admit that it did sound pretty scary, especially the descriptions of the lifeboats being lowered. It sounded like the equipment [lifeboat motor, etc.] was not in the best repair. It is good that all did survive.

[donaldsc]

This link is to a photolog that is a riveting read by a UK survivor who is a trained Naval Architect. You do need to read the full story attached to each photograph, it is very descriptive. Copy & paste in your browser :-

 

Fantastic pictures and text. They totally flesh out the sketchy news stories that I read. I was on the Nordkapp (a sister ship of the NordNorge) on the cruise before she ran aground. If you remember, the NordNorge was also in the right place and rescued the Nordkapp passengers.

 

The Nordkapp was never in any danger of sinking and the passengers could have been taken to land to await rescue in necessary.

 

Just imagine if this accident had occured with one of the thinner hulled cruise ships that are doing Antarctica. There would have been no way that the available rescue ships could have taken on 2000 passengers plus crew. Makes you wonder whether the large ship should be allowed to cruise Amtarctica.

 

Also, it is amazing that there were 2 other ships close anough to rescue the passengers. When the Explorer first started cruising Antarctica, they probably would have been the only ship within 1000 miles.

 

Again, the pictures and text are amazing.

 

DON

[c-to-sea]

Thanks for the link. The best account yet of what really happened.

[Tia Serena]

Just imagine if this accident had occured with one of the thinner hulled cruise ships that are doing Antarctica. There would have been no way that the available rescue ships could have taken on 2000 passengers plus crew. Makes you wonder whether the large ship should be allowed to cruise Antarctica.

 

Technically there is nobody who can forbid. Iaato only has authority over those who accept their authority. As I have always worked for organizations that follow the Iaato recommendations as if their are law, I had all but forgotten that they are just recommendations.

 

The tour company has to apply for a license to operate in Antarctica, so in theory the countries could regulate who they issue licenses to. But if regulations become too strict, companies might migrate to other countries with more "flexible regulations", like the convenience flags.

 

Also, it is amazing that there were 2 other ships close enough to rescue the passengers. When the Explorer first started cruising Antarctica, they probably would have been the only ship within 1000 miles.

 

DON

 

There will be 52 ships in Antarctica this year, (http://www.iaato.org) this year, the ice has been late to break, and very thick. The South shetlans are about the only place that´s relatively ice free. That´s another reason so many ships are in the area.

[redroses]

I thought it was irresponsible and dangerous for the company to provide uncovered lifeboats, especially given that the water is freezing and the chance of surviving (if one fell) in that water are slim. In addition, the passengers had to brave the wind in the uncovered lifeboats.

 

Also, it was lucky that the weather was good. I am surprised the uncovered lifeboat were mentioned as much in press articles, etc.

[2552phxcrzr]

I too am surprised at the lack of mention about the open lifeboats. On the Prof Molchanov, the Russian-made ship we sailed in January (operated by Quark at the time), the lifeboats had hard covers. Not only did we enter the lifeboats during the muster drill, but the covers were pulled down and the engine started to give us a sense of what it would be like. That it was "cozy" inside goes without saying, but I doubt anyone would have been complaining about that in a real emergency.

[Tia Serena]

Dear Neighbors,

 

Yesterday (Tuesday) when we went through immigration in San Francisco , the immigration agent asked us the usual question: occupation, what did you like best/least about your trip? To the former we replied retired/dietitian. To the latter we replied: the ship sank/we’re alive. Suddenly this lethargic civil servant woke up. He wanted to hear all about what happened.

 

Before I go on, you must understand one thing. While we went through the same experience, shoulder to shoulder and often hand in hand, we have different feelings about it. Indeed, everyone who went through it with us has their own unique and personal feelings. While I was cold, wet, shivering, and throwing up, it never occurred to me that I could die. Lynne however was thinking about: what if the weather suddenly changed, if we hit ice or took a big wave and were swamped, if we would capsize. Therefore, in writing this I can only write for myself. Whatever I write is filtered through my perceptions which could be quite different for Lynne.

 

Thursday night we were tired. Instead of watching the 9:15 movie we showered and were in bed by10:00. I fitfully tried to go to sleep. We were going through brash ice – little pieces of ice. Since we were on the third deck, as low as you could go, half our cabin was below the waterline. I could hear the pieces of brash ice scraping against the hull, which was only a single hull. Once and a while a more sold piece would strike. I finally fell asleep.

 

About 12:30 I was roused by what sounded like the gang plank slapping against the hull. Then I heard what sounded like water pouring down a drain. In my sleep I was thinking to wake Lynne and ask her about the sound. I didn’t remember hearing it before. I touched the bulkhead. It was dry. I put my hand on the floor.

 

From half asleep I went to full awake. I bolted up and pushed the emergency button and woke Lynne. I threw on some clothes. We pulled the suitcases out from under the bed; I took my laptop out from the low drawer it was in. The water continued coming in. I decided I should move things up to the second deck. I started with my laptop.

 

The people in the next cabin had also notified the ship. By the time I stuck my head out of the cabin a crew man was coming down. A few minutes later he was followed by the captain. The captain was a solidly built, forty-ish Swede. When he came down the stairs his comment (in English) was: “My god; We’re sinking.” The alarm sounded.

 

When I returned to the cabin I quickly opened up the drawers of the nightstand between our two beds. I scooped out my wallet, the recently filled 2 gigabyte memory from my camera, the backup flash drive with my journal on it and Lynne’s hand cream. I tossed clothes and camera into the suitcase and took them up to the second deck.

 

By the time I returned to the cabin, the boat was listing and the water was ankle deep in one end of the cabin. I picked up one of my tennis shoes and put it on a stool. I watched the other float under the bed. It floated back out and I grabbed it. The word came down: “get warm clothes.” I grabbed some of our clothes that were on the bed. Lynne had gone up to our muster station in her night gown carrying our Wellington ’s (high rubber boots) and some clothes. I also grabbed our Gore-Tex jackets and fleece liners and made my way to our muster station in the lecture hall.

 

When everyone was assembled in the lecture hall they took roll. Periodically the captain would come on the intercom and tell us what was happening. We knew that a mayday had been sent, and that there were two ship coming but they were 10 and 6 hours away. At first there was hope the leak could be fixed. Then the mood in the lecture hall became somber and quiet. At the end of hour one the captain lowered the lifeboats into position. At the end of hour two the captain said that we were coming into ice. The lifeboats could not be lowered in the ice. Therefore, he decided to abandon ship. Then we heard those words that no one on a ship ever wants to hear the captain utter: “abandon ship; abandon ship; abandon ship.”

 

At 2:30 in the morning we quietly filed out of the lecture hall. There was no crying; there was no pushing; there was no panic. One of the staff members directed us to the port (left) or starboard (right) side to go the life boats. Initially we went to the port side. When the word went out that they needed 8 people on the starboard side we went there. I didn’t appreciate how much the ship was listing, perhaps 30 degrees, until I had to walk down across the fantail.

 

I was the last one into number one life boat. It was at this point that I was most anxious. I felt that once I was in the lifeboat I would be safe. However, there was only enough room for my feet! I stepped in, sat on the gunwale for a moment, and then wiggled my bottom onto the seat, my back against the hull. There was a problem with the engine, but it got started.

 

They lowered us away. Once in the water we pushed away from the ship. Our boat was overloaded! Fortunately the seas were relatively calm and there was no wind. We were very far south where it gets dark very late and light very early. It was not dark out, but twilight. Fortunately we had zodiacs – rubber boats with outboard motors. While the electric generators had stopped working we had emergency power so they were able to use it to run the winches to lower the zodiacs. After a while they off loaded people from our lifeboat to a zodiac

 

Once in the lifeboat Lynne and I sat huddled together. While the Gore-Tex jackets kept our topsides dry, our bottoms were wet and there was water in our Wellingtons . There was little talking in the boat. People were somber and cold. The only sound was from the two cylinder engine and an occasional order from the first mate, who was in charge of our boat.

 

At 3:41 I watched the sun rise. It was a small, round, golden orb that came out of a gray sea and disappeared into a gray sky.

 

Several times I threw up as the result of the fumes from the engine that I was sitting next to and the motion of the lifeboat. At times I started to shiver, sometimes violently. The though of hyperthermia crossed my mind, but I knew from my Boy Scout training that as long as my upper body was dry and warm I was okay. Through out this my mind was a blank, thinking on the cold, listening to the engine, always concerned that it would stall.

 

After about two hours in the boat the first mate told us that the rescue ship was about 2 hours away. (The first mate had a radio.) About an hour after that a helicopter flew over head and circled us. Even thought we knew that people around the world knew exactly where we were, our spirits were greatly lifted. Somewhere between hour four and five someone spotted a glint of light in the distance. Soon after that we could see it was a ship bearing down on us.

 

We got not one, but two rescue ships: the National Geographic’s Endeavor, and the Nordnorge. The former ship was small, the size of the Explorer; the latter ship could hold 600 passengers though there were only 229 on board.

 

What a wonderful sight it was when the Nordnorge removed the covers from its gigantic lifeboat and lowered their lifeboat down to us. After four or five hours we were stiff. Hands reached out to us and help us into Nordnorge lifeboat. When everyone was transferred we were raised up to the forth deck. When we went into the ship we were greeted by a crew member giving each of us a blanket. We were sent up to the seventh deck were we were given a hot drink and then pointed in the direction of the lounges. The call went out over the ship’s intercom for clothes. Soon the couches and chairs in the lounge were covered with wet clothes that we exchanged for dry ones donated to us. Both the ship and the passengers of the Nordnorse were unbelievably generous. From large deck to ceiling windows of the seventh deck lounge we could watch our ship as it listed. (Unlike the pictures you have probably seen, there was no ice surrounding the ship – that happened later.)

 

We were served breakfast and lunch on the Nordnorse. The Nordnorse tried to offload us at the Chilean Frei Base. Due to the weather, blowing snow and high seas, it couldn’t. We had to wait offshore several hours before we could finally be landed.

 

Why did the boat sink? While it is true that there was a hole in the hull, the water tight doors were shut. The compartment where our cabin was should have filled up with water, but the boat should have continued to float. My understanding was that the problem was with the toilets. The water went into the toilets and then into the holding tank. When the holding tank filled up the water backed up into the other cabins thus bypassing the watertight doors.

 

Why was this not another Titanic? Relatively speaking we had good weather and a calm sea. The captain launched the lifeboats at the right time. We had the zodiacs. We were all fit people: there were no children or infirmed. We were used to being out on the sea in the cold. We had good leadership. We were dressed for the cold. And, above all, we were lucky.

 

This had been a truly amazing week. I could go on and on. How wonderful the Chilean government was. What it was like flying in a C130 (a military cargo plane) where our knees were intertwined with the knees of the person opposite us. How helpful Debbie, the US Consul from Santiago was. How well we were treated by GAP, the company that ran the tour. What it was like to give interviews to the world press. How basically everything we brought with us is now 1500 meters under the sea. Above all we are thankful to have the most important thing of all, our lives. We appreciate all the e-mails you have sent as they have brought us comfort and support.

 

Your friend

 

Peter

[Tia Serena]

http://www.worldhum.com/speakers_corner/item/into_uncharted_waters_20071203/

 

Into Uncharted Waters

 

The sinking of the cruise ship Explorer didn’t surprise Jason Anthony. He has worked out of McMurdo Station in Antarctica for years.

 

imageWhen I first saw the news of the sinking of the M/S Explorer after it struck an ice floe last month, I nodded grimly, then went back to what I was doing. Few people familiar with Antarctica were surprised by the news. We’d been waiting for this.

 

For well over a decade, Antarctica has been the heart of my work and life. I worked out of McMurdo Station for the United States Antarctic Program, and became deeply attached to the empty horizons of East and West Antarctica, and to the marginal life that clings to the icebound coast. There is no place on Earth so colossal, so ephemeral. In my most recent jobs, I ran small tent camps that shook in gales and shivered in the cold. Perhaps the most fundamental lesson I learned—aside from how little we matter to nature’s great forces—is that Antarctica forces you to always prepare for worst-case scenarios. This is the land of no-options, where I have known multi-day storms to cancel flights, bury trucks and pin down icebreakers.

 

Visitors travel south to see a cold world of ice, and that is what they find. Navigation is difficult, maps are insufficient, weather is atrocious and floating ice is often undetectable.

 

Yet these days, more than 40,000 visitors—if you include the multiple visits by crew members—take leisurely spins through the ice-choked waters off the Antarctic Peninsula. Fifteen years ago, a mere 7,000 thousand took the cold trip south. This explosion in growth has been driven by profits, not, as we might hope, by improvements in nautical design or navigation. Despite the dangers of the Southern Ocean, larger and less ice-ready vessels carry more and more passengers into the uncharted waters of Antarctic “what ifs.”

 

They put their clients at risk, as well as the region’s other inhabitants. About 99.6 percent of Antarctica is covered by snow or ice. The marine mammals and birds that tourists covet, as well as a few hardy plants, thrive only in the .4 percent of delicate fertility left over. The fuel now leaking out of the Explorer (it carried an estimated 50,000 gallons) can only be bad news for Antarctica’s marine life.

 

As for the people aboard the Explorer, they were fortunate that time and weather worked in their favor. The ship’s compartmentalized hull design, which slowed the leak and allowed them a somewhat unhurried retreat to the lifeboats, is rare in the industry. The ship was small, the passengers adventurous, the crew experienced, the ice and ocean quiet. In other words, aside from the unhappy meeting with undetected ice, the people aboard the Explorer could not have had better luck.

 

This sinking of one of the industry’s more reliable ships should give pause to anyone thinking of cruising the dangerous waters off Antarctica. Picture the rapid sinking of an upscale behemoth populated by rhinestone cowboys, small dogs and seniors. (Last year Princess Cruises sent a thin-hulled vessel south with 3,500 passengers and crew, with another scheduled for this January.) The assurances of the cruise industry should no longer lull clients into complacency.

 

Government or maritime regulation may never bare enough teeth to stem the cruise ship tide in Antarctica. The continent, like the oceans, exists in an international legal limbo. The nations that are party to the Antarctic Treaty cannot mandate that ships be prepared for worst-case scenarios. The International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators provides polite oversight to its members (though some operators are not members), but makes little effort to limit ship traffic.

 

In the case of the Explorer, I was happy that the ship was small, that all personnel and passengers escaped unharmed. But what if there were 1,000 passengers rather than 91, and no other cruise ships were on hand to quickly pick them up? What if this incident happened during a three-day blizzard, with gale-force winds trapping lifeboats in churning growlers and sea ice? Hope for the best, but don’t be surprised if grim news comes.

 

* * * * * *

 

Jason Anthony’s last Antarctica story for World Hum, A Brief and Awkward Tour of the End of the Earth, was selected for The Best American Travel Writing 2007. His Antarctic essays and photographs are available at http://www.albedoimages.com. He teaches at the Deck House School in Edgecomb, Maine.

 

Related on World Hum:

* Q&A with Susan Fox Rogers: Antarctica for ‘Dreamers and Readers’

* Environmentalist on Antarctica: ‘Do We Want This to Become Disneyland?’

* Scientists Unveil High-Def Map of Antarctica

 

Photo: AP.

 

 

COMMENTS

 

Food for thought and nicely stated. thanks, Jason.

Posted by Julia Ross on 12.4.07 at 10:09 AM

 

An interesting collection of photos from this event can be found on this site:

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/libaronge/MVExplorerTheLittleRedBoat

Posted by craig of travelvice.com on 12.5.07 at 11:01 AM

[dforeigner]

Man, what an ordeal. Glad to hear everyone made it home safe.

[CruiseIsGood]

Hi Tia,

 

Where are you now? Do you know how the ice is? I leave Wednesday and this is sobering, but it won't stop me. I did, however, plan a goodbye party with my friends just in case!

[Tia Serena]

Hi Tia,

 

Where are you now? Do you know how the ice is? I leave Wednesday and this is sobering, but it won't stop me. I did, however, plan a goodbye party with my friends just in case!

 

I am still home, my cruise starts December 18. I have been checking the logbooks of a couple of companies that I know do post a daily log on the web.

 

Abercrombie & Kent for the Explorer 2

 

http://www.abercrombiekent.com/index.cfm?navid=3.2.4.1&ID=1&order=2

 

and Lindblad Expeditions

 

http://www.expeditions.com/Daily_Expedition_Rep54.asp

 

Click around and you can find the logs for the past cruises. There is still ice inside the caldera at Deception Island. Last cruise there were icebergs in the Lemaire straights, but the Endeavor managed to get past that and landed at Peterman Island.

The Antarctic sound is, as far as I know, still closed.

The logs will not mention what they did NOT do, only what they actually did, buy the lack of familiar names, like Half Moon Island, or Port Lockroy may indicate that most sites around the Peninsula are still closed. The Endeavor did go into Paradise Bay this cruise, but they are a smaller, more manouverable than the Explorer 2. It´s hard to analize because this cruise included South Georgia, so their peninsula time will be slightly abbreviated anyhow, but ships coming from S. Georgia usually enter the Weddel Sea or the Antarctic Sound if it´s open, and their first stop was in the South Shetlands - just like with the little red Explorer.

 

There is an IAATO report that the Clipper Adventurer canceled the present cruise, and it is possible they will also cancel the Christmas cruise, some technical dificulty.

 

I could not find logs for Quark, the Marco Polo or any of the other ships.

Not all ships are there yet. I think the French and the Germans of the Bremen and Hanseatic are arriving just now, but I don´t think they post their logs, but there is a Web Cam. They seem to be in the middle of the ocean, but I think they are still in Brazil.

 

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=12597872

 

Isn't it amazing the amount of information we can get from the web???

 

Just realized that it´s your first time, so you might not be familiar with all the names...

will try to look up some maps...

[Tia Serena]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Ant-pen_map.png

 

All the area to the right of the peninsula, the Weddel sea, is actually covered in Ice. That's where Shackleton was drifting. The Antarctic sound separates the peninsula from those 3 islands just north of it. The tiny dot just below Durville is Paulette island, favorite stop, large penguin rookery. From the last reports these three islands were still with fast ice.

Most cruises concentrate arond the Danco coast and the Gerlache strait. That's where Paradise Bay and Neko Harbor are. But this year it seems that ships are hanging around the South Shetlands, the northmost group of islands. Deception is part of the South Shetlands. It´s the tiny dot just above the "NS" from Bransfield.

 

The funny thing is that last year was a particularly "ice free" year. Ships managed to get as far south as Snow Hill in the Weddel Sea, and on our last cruise of the season there were no penguins in Paulette island, which none of us had ever seen before.

 

It is likely though, that by december most ice will have cleared out.

I'm kind of counting on it...