Young Men's Suit Style - for Soxfan05 (specifically)

[Curt Jerome Wild]

Thanks Curt. This thread has been really helpful with giving me ideas. DS is 16, about 5'6" and 130 lbs. His waist is 28", shirt size 15 sleeve 32/33. He has dark brown curly hair and pale skin with brown eyes. We live in Minneapolis so a lot of the stores you mention (J Crew, Banana, Macys, H & M, Nordstrom) are available locally. He tends to wear a lot of medium to darker blues and browns. He likes more classic styles (old school sneakers, track jackets) but also knows how to tie a tie several ways.

 

Any specific recommendations would be great. I'm going to take him out shopping tomorrow night. Thanks.

You are very welcome, I'm glad you found this thread!

 

Well, he's right on that edge where the boys department is just too small - so he's about to jump into the mens department anyway.

Sounds like he's a Summer (possibly a Winter) so cool tones, blues and darker browns are good.

I'd also keep an open mind on darker Gray's for him. They will probably look very good.

 

He's most likely a Men's S Jacket now - and have you tried a 38S on him lately?

You want to be sure that you are purely looking at the fit in the shoulders.

Should be nice and comfortable. Might need to take it in at the waist a bit though (make sure you are not judging his jacket size on waist size, only on shoulder/chest fit).

 

For him, I'd start first at H & M! They are Swedish, so cut a bit slimmer than American designs. A better starting point for his sizes.

They also will have Spring/Easter Jackets and Suit Separates, which are better to mix and match his jacket and be able to get 28 waist pants.

Also should be fairly good prices, especially if they're having a sale like they are at the ones in LA and Hollywood right now.

If it's not out of your budget (and especially if they are having a sale) then I'd have him try some Calvin Klein jackets or suit separates at Macy's.

They also cut a bit slimmer than most American designs.

 

Target (Merona design) is good for lower budgets.

 

Let me know if that helps you in a good direction, and let me know if you need any more help or have any more questions.

He should absolutely be able to get further use out of this with debate and casual school options as well!

I'll keep checking here to see if you have more questions or comments.

[Soxfan05]

Hi Curt I need more help.

 

Since my last question, puberty has kicked in and my boys have morphed.

 

I'm having a tough time buying shirts for my boys. Both boys need more of an athletic cut. Twin 1 especially has very broad shoulders. Men's medium shirts end up being cap sleeved on him but men's large are too wide through the torso and he looks like he's wearing tent. Any suggestions for companies who make t's and polos that would fit? I do okay at Hollister and Abercrombie- American Eagle is featuring all vintage fit which fits in the shoulders but just hangs but they'd also like some pieces that aren't just plastered with company logos.

[Curt Jerome Wild]

Any suggestions for companies who make t's and polos that would fit?

No problem, as these kind of questions are just adding to future info for others reading this thread!

So, let's start with plain T-Shirts.

In general, you want to look for shirts with the term "fitted" or "tailored fit".

You want to find the size that fits the shoulders first, then then waist will have far less fabric and bunching around the waist than traditional fit shirts.

(using your example, you probably need to get Large, and possibly XL in the future).

A good basic, inexpensive line for this is American Apparel:

Lots of colors and styles (crew neck, v neck, long sleeve, raglan sleeve, etc.)

Even if you get and XL, you will see once it's on - it still looks much cleaner and neater than a standard fit L, as there is so much less fabric from shoulder to waist (less sack-like).

 

I'm going to post this before I lose the pictures, more later...

[Curt Jerome Wild]

For a higher end T Shirt, Calvin Klein always cuts more athletic than traditional American shirts (like Hanes or Fruit of the Loom); Banana Republic makes nice ones that are fitted as well...

These are the ones that are the preferred Ts for fashionable/athletic guys like David Beckham, Brad Pitt, and Johnny Depp favor:

Beckham wears his XL fitted, Pitt and Depp are wearing more M or L fitted...

 

Banana Republic Fitted T

 

Calvin Klein Fitted T

 

moving on...

 

 

[Curt Jerome Wild]

Polos!

First my personal favorite is...

 

Original Penguin!

Now, make sure that it is "Original Penguin" and not just "Penguin". Original Penguin has become somewhat of a separate offshoot. They are using their pattern cuts from decades ago, which were made for Tennis players and Polo players. They have nice styles and patterns, and nice fit.

 

My second favorite for this more athletic fit is

Marc By Marc Jacobs (available at Nordstrom)

Note that there is no "tenting" fabric around the waist, and also there are nice different "subtle" design touches - like the collar being a different tone.

 

 

Banana Republic Monogram is more athletic/fitted

 

J. Crew Tailored Fit (makes sure it's the tailored fit, not the regular)

 

Let me know if these help you get going in the right direction, and as always feel free to always ask any more questions.

I'm happy to help, whenever I'm available!

[Curt Jerome Wild]

And a general rule and note to everyone reading:

As you can see from the examples above, even more casual or inexpensive items look nicer, dressier, and classier if they are just cut to fit better.

 

A tiny detail like a cut that fits your own personal body type, makes a huge difference in making you look better in general (no matter your size)!:D

[Soxfan05]

Thank you Curt! You are so kind to take the time to help us with our fashion problems. You need to have a show on the Style Network!

 

We're heading into Boston this weekend and now have an idea of what we are looking for. Johnny Cupcakes is a planned stop and I'm pretty sure all of their t's are tailored.

[nothriver]

Curt, I'm now looking for a dress shirt for my son. I think he needs a 14 1/2 32 or 33 but I haven't found anything smaller than a 15 locally. If you could direct me as to where to shop, I'd appreciate the help. I posted my location and local malls in post #49 when I was shopping for the suit.

 

I wanted to thank you again for all your advice. Since we started shopping for a suit for this cruise, my son has started shopping for his own clothes for the first time in his life. While I've been fortunate that for 15 years, I've had a child willing to wear anything I brought home for him, I now love seeing him start to develop his own style. Thanks for encouraging us to hit the mall. :)

[Curt Jerome Wild]

Curt, I'm now looking for a dress shirt for my son. I think he needs a 14 1/2 32 or 33 but I haven't found anything smaller than a 15 locally. If you could direct me as to where to shop, I'd appreciate the help. I posted my location and local malls in post #49 when I was shopping for the suit.

Ackkk!:o

Sorry, I just saw this - give me a little bit, and I'll get you some specific info...

I wanted to thank you again for all your advice. Since we started shopping for a suit for this cruise, my son has started shopping for his own clothes for the first time in his life. While I've been fortunate that for 15 years, I've had a child willing to wear anything I brought home for him, I now love seeing him start to develop his own style. Thanks for encouraging us to hit the mall. :)

I'm so happy to hear this! Thanks for reporting back.

It's what I keep saying...

If parents actually "loosen up" a bit - and don't try to force kids into their grandfather's suits or styles - they'll actually enjoy dressing up more!

If you encourage their own personal suit and formal choices - they will run with it!:D

Major applause to both you and your son!

See? My advice actually works!;)

[nothriver]

Thanks in advance, Curt. The 14 1/2 we have is Bachrach but we no longer have Bachrach stores locally, and I don't see any 14 1/2's on their website.

 

15's are way too big, but size 20's are too small, both too short and also too tight through the neck.

 

We leave 4 weeks from today so I still have plenty of time to shop locally or online.

[simplelife]

You KNOW that I have an extensive personal library of books and magazines on the history of fashion dating back for centuries!

 

I happen to be one of the few owners of the out of print ORIGINAL seasonal color charts!

(which still works today in my business, and my fashion contemporaries are amazed that I have managed to retain original copies!)

 

So, that is a scan of even the pre-Reader's Digest version that you pulled out in the mid-eighties!

 

It's the OG!:D

 

Yes, I am that cool.:cool::p

I still have (and use) my old original copy of Color me Beautiful. I am a classic Winter and know most of my colors by heart, but I find the charts very useful to do a "reality check" occasionally and when shopping for others.

[Curt Jerome Wild]

Curt, I'm now looking for a dress shirt for my son. I think he needs a 14 1/2 32 or 33 but I haven't found anything smaller than a 15 locally. If you could direct me as to where to shop, I'd appreciate the help. I posted my location and local malls in post #49 when I was shopping for the suit.

Men's Wearhouse

http://www.menswearhouse.com/

There is one in West Des Moines. They are a "go to" for me when I need specific dress shirt sizes.

 

If you also have other tuxedo stores - a super cool thing for young men now - is using a flat pleat, flat collar tuxedo shirt for a dress shirt (or to pair with jeans for a nice but casual look)...

 

As a second choice, Jos A. Bank would be another place to check.

http://www.josbank.com/HomePage.process

There is also one is West Des Moines.

 

Try to get a "tailored fit" or "fitted", as see how that works.

Let me know if those help get you going!

[nothriver]

I didn't have great luck with the shirts, Jos. Banks did not have his size and said they couldn't get them until July. Mens Wearhouse did not have his size locally.

 

In the end, I purchased two shirts, both Fitted, size Small (14-14 1/2), one from Express (~$50) and one from Target (~$25). Both have the correct sleeve lenght and not too bad through the torso, but, both are actually roomer through the neck than they should be for a 14/14 1/2, but at the same time, both are a bit tight through the shoulders, the Target shirt more so than the Express shirt. Shouldn't be too big of a problem for our cruise, as my son will be wearing his suit jacket, but it wouldn't work as a shirt without a jacket, if he were going to a school dance or a wedding where he planned to take off his jacket to dance, for example. I know from experience that the super thin Express shirts are a pain to iron, so we'll probably return that one and keep the Target shirt which is a thicker fabric.

 

The size small fitted shirt we found at Express up on high shelf, was literally quite dusty. I guess I can't blame stores for not carrying this size, because obviously they are not good sellers!

[Curt Jerome Wild]

I forgot to ask, but did you get him "officially" measured at Men's Wearhouse?

That is really helpful when you are there.

 

If you did, then you still have time to order better fitting shirts off of both the websites above...

[nothriver]

I forgot to ask, but did you get him "officially" measured at Men's Wearhouse?

That is really helpful when you are there.

 

If you did, then you still have time to order better fitting shirts off of both the websites above...

 

Well, yes, but I was actually looking for something more affordable that what I found at either Jos Banks and Mens Wearhouse.:o I've spent a fortune on this vacation between formal wear and active wear to stay warm and dry in Alaska, luggage and so many other odds and ends.

 

At your urging, we did make another trip to the mall for one last search for the perfect shirt. This is the best we found, Safford Performance 'Traveler' in a 14 1/2 x 32/33:

http://www5.jcpenney.com/jcp/X6.aspx?ItemID=1587367&ItemTyp=C&GrpTyp=SIZ&ShowMenu=T&ShopBy=0&SearchString=performance+traveler&RefPage=SearchDepartment.aspx&s4PageSize=15&CmCatId=searchresults&Search1Prod=True&S4Filter=N%7c4294967250%7cNtt%7cperformance+traveler%7cNtk%7csearch_all%7cNao%7c0%7cNty%7c1%7csid%7c121B1351E7E4%7cNtx%7cmode%2bmatchallpartial%7cNtpr%7c1%7cNtpc%7c1&Refinements=4294967250%7cColor%7cwhite

 

They were on sale for $19.99 and this is a very nice qualiy shirt for that price. Easy care fabric and best of all - scotchguard - perfect for my messy teenager.:rolleyes:

 

We actually came home with 3 shirts from Penny's, in addition to the Express and the Target shirts we already had, we tried them all on with the suit. The Safford Performance Traveler shirt was the by far the best quality and while still not a perfect fit, it was among the best although the sleeves are still very slightly too short, barely showing from under the suit coat sleeves, it is good enough, one of those things I hope no one but me will notice.

 

While we were at the mall, I purchased a pair of 30x32 pants so he can wear the suit when he outgrows the 30x30 pants he is wearing now.

 

Overall, for being so hard to fit at 5'10" and 128#, I think he looks great in his suit. I'll try to remember to post a picture of him when we get home.

 

Thanks so much for your help and encouragement, Curt!