Live from Voyager Venice to Monte Carlo--Sept 29-Oct 10

[RachelG]

Gerry, I got a note from the concierge saying they are looking into the situation on the tour, so we will see what happens.

The only other non-Rome tour offered was an Etruscan tour, and I haven't found anyone who went on it so can't comment.

 

Today we awoke to strong winds and heavy clouds. Looked like a storm any minute. I guess our luck as far as weather could only last so long. Also noticably cooler--jacket weather.

We had signed up for a cooking tour but found out last night that it was cancelled as not enough people had signed up. It was one with a pretty big surcharge (we were using our onboard credit), so that left us with no tour and a lot of money to spend.

After yesterday's fiasco, I was determined to make a better day happen. Turned out that there was availability on the biking tour of Lucca. I have been to Lucca previously, loved it, and saw the people riding bikes along the top of the wall. It looked like great fun, so we signed upl.

Fabulous tour--one of my favorites ever. Rode the bus into Lucca and picked up our bikes. Our excellent guide took us all over, along the top of the walls (which are wide, flat and have been turned into a city park lined with trees on both sides), all through the streets to several churches, Pucchini's birthplace and statue. Ride was 2 1/2 hrs but very easy and pleasant. Most of the city is pedestrian only so not much worries as far as traffic. The rain held off during our ride, but it was VERY windy.

Afterwards, we had an hour to look around town on our own. It started raining pretty hard, so we ducked into a cafe for an espresso. Fortunately rain only lasted about 15 minutes, so we were able to explore some more. I love Lucca--absolutely beautiful town.

 

Back to the ship to spend the afternoon in the spa. I had a great massage, with no attempts to sell me anything. Son had a gentleman's facial and haircut. The facial girl did sell him a bunch of skin care stuff, but he actually probably needs to use it. As she told him, he has great skin and hair, but obviously takes no effort to take care of it. So we used up our non refundable portion of our OBC.

 

Trivia--lost by one point. I knew the right answer but wasn't confident enough I guess.

 

Nice quiet dinner in CR. We got there before the rush as everyone who had been on tour in Florence arrived at about 8, so there were some lines for those passengers. We were able to be finished and out well ahead of the onslaught.

 

Didn't go to the evening entertainment as it was a pianist. I am sure he was excellent, but if I am going to listen to piano music, I would prefer to be in one of the lounges rather than at a formal concert.

[Hambagahle]

Lucca IS wonderful! we often go there... and when we first went (1969) we drove our car up on the walls. That was allowed then. I don't ride bikes anymore but often walk those walls and envy the bikers! Didn't you love the glimpses into "secret gardens" as you rode along!! I can just see you, Rachel, with a smile from ear to ear, especially given the debacle in Rome. You are a lesson to us all in how to travel and how to deal with the bad and enjoy the good!!

 

I think you must be in Portofino today? Hope you enjoy that in spite of the chilly weather. Look forward to hearing about it!

 

Your posts have been terrific. Thank you for allowing us to come on the cruise by reading them.

Gerry

[cruiseluv]

Rachel, thank you for all your commentary, enjoy your reports.

 

Frankly, the catacombs are my least favorite attraction in Rome. I think they're way overrated. The excursion sounded awful.

 

Glad you went back to Lucca and enjoyed its marvelous wall. One of my favorite places in Italy!

[Threechicks]

Rachel, thank you for your delightful reports. I visited Lucca once on a Sunday and eventhough most places were closed it was a beautiful tour. I have wonderful photos of many of those great windows. Elsie

[RachelG]

Posting a little early today as internet will shut down tonight.

 

Elsie, I love those windows in Lucca too--so much pretty stuff. And Gerry, I can't imagine driving a car on top of the walls. That would be pretty exciting, but I think I will just stick to bikes.

 

Portofino is just so beautiful. One of my favorite places anywhere in the world. We had a very bumpy night sailing here due to the wind. Not seasick, but a lot of motion. A little motion helps me sleep, but this was more than that.

 

However, the wind died down, and the cold air dissipated. SO another bright sunny warm day. I have been to Portofino before, and I had a plan for the day.

 

We disembarked by tender after all the tours left. We were the only people on the tender, which was very cool. Our own private boat.

 

We hiked up to the top of the mountain behind Portofino. Trails up are paved and very good condition with good trail maps. Then we went down to San Frutteoso. Trails on that side are rough, actually very rough. A couple of times we thought maybe we had lost the trail, but we would see the trail marking. So we pushed on. Eventually we got out along the coast enough to see we were on the right path. Hiked down to the cutest little village. Only way to get there is by sea or on foot--no roads. We had timed our trip so that we would be able to get the ferry back, and fortunately our timing was perfect.

 

Nice ferry ride back to Portofino. We checked out the interior of the church and hiked out to the lighthouse and back. Then lunch at a place that I had eaten at before. Unfortunately their pizza maker is off on Saturday, and they have great pizza. But we had some good pasta and salad instead.

 

We explored a little more, then went back to the ship for a nap to make up for the poor sleeping last night. Sad to say, but on our beds were those dreaded covers that say bon voyage. I just hate that. So had to pack.

 

Tonight we will have dinner with our friends in CR. Then off early in the am. We have one night in Nice before flying home, so will go to the Matisse and Chagall museums.

 

But I did innoculate myself against post cruise depression--booked another cruise! Next summer, son and I will be going to the Baltics. I was up for a 7 day cruise, but he has offered to pay for his own if we can do 10. I have another convert to Regent and travelling companion!! Hooray (or ooh rah as he would say.)

[poss]

From another Lucca lover, many thanks for your wonderful posts and may these last days abroad and flight home all be good. (I love those 2 museums in Nice!)

I do so wish that our Venice-Monte Carlo cruise next July had your itinerary instead of the one they're doing. I've never been to Portofino, e.g., and with your description, I'm more interested than ever. I also wish that, like yourself, I'd booked on board, but at the time of our British Isles cruise, the concierge thing was bothering me too much. I've never had an OBC-- would be fun.

Your posts have been a joy, Rachel. Thank you ever so much.

[TedC]

Chagall is buried at St. Paul de Vence and Matisse and wife are buried near his museum.

[Hambagahle]

Rachel - I am SO So glad you went to San Fruttoso - isn't that little cove amazing? We were there two years ago for a wedding (in the little white chapel you must have passed as you hiked up from Portofino) and the reception was at Castello Brown, further up the hill, but the day before we all (80 of us) were treated to a boat ride from Rapallo to Camogli to Sestri with a stop at San Fruttoso. my Godson and some other "young" went swimming in the cove. Did you know there is a statue of Christ about 5m underwater - they dived down to see it. Some actually got deep enough to touch it!! (Serge didn't!) Anyway, they came back on board more than a bit wet. We went to the little chapel and walked around - and saw the path you took over from Portofino. What a great hike!!

 

Sorry about the packing... but hope you will enjoy a few days in the "Midi". AND also that you are not getting this very cold weather we have inteh alps! Your posts have been terrific. You wouldn't like to come on the 18th march TA with us, would you??

Gerry

[OrpingtonT]

Over so soon. I shall miss your daily musings and your last report from Portofino was superb. Even at my fittest I cannot imagine undertaking that hike up and over from Portofino. When we went there, we ventured no further than the port and a visit to the five bays by boat. Enjoy your night in Nice and have a safe journey home.

[ChatKat in Ca.]

Don't forgt to visit the Flower Market in Nice. One of my favorites to visit in Europe!

[RachelG]

At last, I am caught up enough with work and unpacking to post.

 

We were up early to disembark in Monaco. I never really do room service breakfast, but GE wanted to experience it. SO he ordered up a feast--fried eggs, bacon, bagels, salmon, tomato and orange juice, coffee for him and tea for me. They were right on time (how do they do that with so many people ordering at the same time). Everything was hot and cooked perfectly.

 

Our tags were called at 8:45 (we had requested 9 as that was when I had scheduled our driver), and Carlos (the sommolier) yet again carrying my luggage off. He is such a jewel. Driver was there for a quick, no traffic, Sunday morning drive to Nice.

 

We spent the rest of the day exploring Nice. Dinner at Luc Saucedo, which is my favorite restaurant there. Flew to LHR then to US.

 

A wonderful memorable trip--one I feel honored to be able to have shared with my son. Lots of really nice passengers and crew. Crew members were always smiling. Excursion departures were much better organized than many in the past and were almost all on time.

 

When I get the pics organized, I will try to find one of the mask party.

[poss]

Rachel, many thanks once more for your terrific reporting.

Can you tell me, please, whom you used for your driver from Monaco to Nice? and about how much the transfer cost?

I love Nice also and have made note of your son's restaurant. ;-)

(We enjoy La Perouse very much as a hotel, but have never noted our restaurants.)

[RachelG]

alain at dream-tours.com has been our driver twice. He is amazing. Highly recommend. Very good prices too. 90 euro from the dock at Monaco to Nice. A taxi would be about the same probably, but I like the assurance of having a driver waiting there for me.

LOL about my son's restaurant. Actually my son does love to cook.

[Responder]

alain at dream-tours.com has been our driver twice. He is amazing. Highly recommend. Very good prices too. 90 euro from the dock at Monaco to Nice. A taxi would be about the same probably, but I like the assurance of having a driver waiting there for me.

LOL about my son's restaurant. Actually my son does love to cook.

 

You're correct...that was exactly what a taxi cost us for the 15 minute ride.

[Travel2Learn]

SO he ordered up a feast--fried eggs, bacon, bagels, salmon, tomato and orange juice, coffee for him and tea for me.

 

Rachel, what brand of tea are they currently serving?

[TheSeaAroundUs]

I think I've always seen Twinings; don't know if that changes or if they have others as well (presumably some herbals?)...

[RachelG]

Twinings is the current brand of tea. No others that I know of. I would so love if they would have proper loose leaf tea, at least at tea time.

[Travelcat2]

Twinings is the current brand of tea. No others that I know of. I would so love if they would have proper loose leaf tea, at least at tea time.

 

As I think you know, Silversea has an amazing assortment of loose leaf tea. This is a big draw for some of their European customers.

[RachelG]

As I think you know, Silversea has an amazing assortment of loose leaf tea. This is a big draw for some of their European customers.

 

Yes, why can't Regent follow in this regard? I am hoping that they have the loose leaf tea on the Silversea Explorer, not just the other ships, as we are booked for next June.

[poss]

Hello again Rachel,

I hope you don't mind my coming back with yet another question. I will definitely book Alain for either a transfer to Nice or one of the tours plus transfer. I remember your saying that you'd done the perched villages (full day) tour. I'm trying to decide between that one and the half day tour of Eze, Villa Ephrussi and Villa Kerylos (Beaulieu). We've been to Eze (Eze is on both tours). So: can you offer an opinion of whether La Turbie, St Agnes, Menton (and Eze and Monaco) are more interesting than those seaside villas (and Eze)? I've googled LaT and St A and Menton, but I don't have a real sense of them. Did you love them? Do you know the villas?

Thanks very much. (I know you can't make our choice; just hoping you might have some input.)

[RachelG]

When we did our transfer last year with Alain, we did the villas and Eze tour. I really enjoyed the villas. They are both very different. The Rothschild Villa has beautiful gardens. I could have spent a whole day there just exploring. The other villa is made to replicate an ancient Roman villa because the guy who built it was fascinated with Roman history and architecture. It was really interesting, esp considering that he had the ancient furniture replicated and actually lived there. It did not look very comfortable to me.

Eze is fine to walk around in, very charming, but mostly just tourist shops and cafes now. I actually preferred the villas, but Eze was included in the tour. I think this tour and transfer combo is very good value.

The only other hilltop village I have been to is St. Paul de Vence, which I loved way more than Eze. It seemed like people really lived there in addition to the tourist stuff. Great views and cute cats.

[poss]

Thanks Rachel. You've decided me! (I love gardens especially.) And I agree with your feelings abt Eze and St Paul. Eze has wonderful views and handsome streets, but they're too many shops for our taste. St Paul is one of my all-time favorite places. I guess the perched villages will have to be for another time (she says optimistically).

[mimito4]

Thank you Rachel. I enjoyed your journey, although I'm sure not as much as you!