Restaurant recommendations for Rome, please

[slidergirl]

Andrew Zimmern (of Bizarre Foods fame) had a new show two nights ago on eating in Rome. He finally convinced me that I need to go eat in Testaccio next time I'm in Rome for more than a day...

 

Some of the things he ate were certainly not to everyone's taste, but he highlighted the return to Rome's roots in terms of cuisine.

 

The porchetta from Il Norcino Bernabei (15 miles outside Rome in Marino) made me want to fly there immediately and sample some. http://andrewzimmern.com/2015/04/27/il-norcino-bernabei/

 

 

Pizzeria Ostiense also sounds wonderful. See brief NY Times write: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/04/05/travel/05Surfacing_Rome-Ostiense.html?_r=0

 

I wanted to mention something to you, cruisemom… one of the people who helped Zimmern with this episode was Katie Parla. I've used her a few times for some restaurant recs, with some good emails between us. She also runs some tours, both historical/architectual and food-based - I've tried twice and missed out on dates she had because she usually takes holiday the end of April. I know she now has a tour of the Monte Testaccio area that is closed to the public. Go to her website, parlafood, and see if it would interest you and if she has dates you could do. If nothing else, you can get some good recs from her for restaurants to try in Testaccio.

[cruisemom42]

I wanted to mention something to you, cruisemom… one of the people who helped Zimmern with this episode was Katie Parla. I've used her a few times for some restaurant recs, with some good emails between us. She also runs some tours, both historical/architectual and food-based - I've tried twice and missed out on dates she had because she usually takes holiday the end of April. I know she now has a tour of the Monte Testaccio area that is closed to the public. Go to her website, parlafood, and see if it would interest you and if she has dates you could do. If nothing else, you can get some good recs from her for restaurants to try in Testaccio.

 

I've actually corresponded with Katie a few times. :)

[bobalink]

For everyone who likes to stay at Albergo al Senato: there is a little pastry/sandwich shop right across the piazza. I went in there one night for a little sweet snack. Really good variety of different cookies. I picked up a couple cookies and a "palm leaf".

 

Thanks for the tip, slidergirl! We will be staying at Albergo del Senato in August, so I will check out the pastry shop.

 

BTW, I enjoy reading your descriptions about all the food and restaurants you've been to.

 

My daughter and I will be doing a Walking Food Tour while in Rome, too.

[slidergirl]

I've actually corresponded with Katie a few times. :)

 

There we go again - we ARE on the same wave length ;)

 

She is the one who turned me onto Cesare al Casaletto for this trip.

[slidergirl]

Thanks for the tip, slidergirl! We will be staying at Albergo del Senato in August, so I will check out the pastry shop.

 

BTW, I enjoy reading your descriptions about all the food and restaurants you've been to.

 

My daughter and I will be doing a Walking Food Tour while in Rome, too.

 

Glad you enjoyed the commentary. I did more for my friends - I posted photos of most of my dinners for them. It wasn't design to be this way, but it did end up as a "food porn" trip this time. I had so many good meals and good gelato!!!

Kind of cute - one of my co-workers is now on vacation in Japan and his is posting food pictures every night too! We live vicariously through our FB postings :)

[bobalink]

There we go again - we ARE on the same wave length ;)

 

She is the one who turned me onto Cesare al Casaletto for this trip.

 

Perhaps someone already mentioned this, I haven't read all of this thread...

 

The magazine, bon appetit, May 2015 issue "Will Fly for Food" features an article, "The Best Pasta in Rome" on page 112.

 

From the article:

When in Rome, take whatever road leads to Da Cesare al Casaletto.

 

The author recommends the pasta alla gricia.

 

I think I will make plans to go there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[slidergirl]

Perhaps someone already mentioned this, I haven't read all of this thread...

 

The magazine, bon appetit, May 2015 issue "Will Fly for Food" features an article, "The Best Pasta in Rome" on page 112.

 

From the article:

When in Rome, take whatever road leads to Da Cesare al Casaletto.

 

The author recommends the pasta alla gricia.

 

I think I will make plans to go there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of folks have been recommending Cesare for awhile. It's been a biggie over on Chowhound. But, the fact that it is out of the way and you have to call for reservations keeps many tourists away. I used my trusty concierge to make my reservation...

Once I had my heart set on the gnocchi fritti with cacio e pepe sauce as my appetizer, I had zero room/desire for a pasta course! If I had selected one of the appetizers, I probably would have gone for the pasta alla gricia; but, any pasta dish that has guanciale and pecorino as ingredients has my heart ;)

This link to Katie's blogsite has photos… Yes, that is a huge mound of gnocchi! I had the involtini it really is that simply prepared and presented, but it is excellent.

Edited May 9, 2015 by slidergirl

[texancruzer]

For everyone who likes to stay at Albergo al Senato: there is a little pastry/sandwich shop right across the piazza. I went in there one night for a little sweet snack. Really good variety of different cookies. I picked up a couple cookies and a "palm leaf".

 

Their paninis are delightful…… very fresh. We sometimes pick one up for a lunch "on the go"…...

[slidergirl]

Their paninis are delightful…… very fresh. We sometimes pick one up for a lunch "on the go"…...

 

If I had wandered by there another day around lunch, I would have been tempted to get a panini - I saw their menu. It was late at night and I just had a "hankering" for something to snack on and all those cookies in the case just drew me in.

 

Glad to see you made it into FCO despite the fire mess. Good to hear it didn't disrupt your arrival. Enjoy your trip!!!!

[texancruzer]

If I had wandered by there another day around lunch, I would have been tempted to get a panini - I saw their menu. It was late at night and I just had a "hankering" for something to snack on and all those cookies in the case just drew me in.

 

Glad to see you made it into FCO despite the fire mess. Good to hear it didn't disrupt your arrival. Enjoy your trip!!!!

 

We were there long before the fire (arriving April 25) but wasnt so sure about leaving (departed May 9) just 2 days after the fire.

 

But we had a real easy time leaving out of T5. They did shift some flights that would normally go out of T3 into T5 but it didn't impact us at all. In fact, this was the easiest "out" of FCO in all 5 of our trips :D

[slidergirl]

We were there long before the fire (arriving April 25) but wasnt so sure about leaving (departed May 9) just 2 days after the fire.

 

But we had a real easy time leaving out of T5. They did shift some flights that would normally go out of T3 into T5 but it didn't impact us at all. In fact, this was the easiest "out" of FCO in all 5 of our trips :D

 

Good to hear.

Now, which restaurants did you get to? Panzirone?

[texancruzer]

Good to hear.

Now, which restaurants did you get to? Panzirone?

 

Well, We weren't too adventurous when it came to eating….. the kids (never been before) really enjoyed eating on the piazzas so we kind of stuck to those.

 

Yes we hit Panzirone for lunch one day…… I was a bit disappointed in the pumpkin soup this time…. I think dinner is better here.

 

We actually ate at Tre Scallini twice. The Saltimbocca was really really good. This is my dh and sons favorite. My daughter in law had Pasta carbonara that she said was the best she ever ate.

 

And our last night after the cruise we ate at DiRienzo. While the meals were ok the service STUNK. We had the worst waiter in history ! I was so disappointed.

 

While we definitely don't have your palate…. we do tend to seek out some special places when it is just the two of us…… this trip was more about the kids tho…… they were blown away I think so thats ok….

[slidergirl]

Well, We weren't too adventurous when it came to eating….. the kids (never been before) really enjoyed eating on the piazzas so we kind of stuck to those.

 

Yes we hit Panzirone for lunch one day…… I was a bit disappointed in the pumpkin soup this time…. I think dinner is better here.

 

We actually ate at Tre Scallini twice. The Saltimbocca was really really good. This is my dh and sons favorite. My daughter in law had Pasta carbonara that she said was the best she ever ate.

 

And our last night after the cruise we ate at DiRienzo. While the meals were ok the service STUNK. We had the worst waiter in history ! I was so disappointed.

 

While we definitely don't have your palate…. we do tend to seek out some special places when it is just the two of us…… this trip was more about the kids tho…… they were blown away I think so thats ok….

 

Sorry about Panzirone and DiRienzo.

Hey, I don't have a palate that is "refined." I definitely don't eat at high-end places. But, I like places that do a good job of the local things AND treat the solo diner well. Every time I've been to Armando, there have been families. Cesare al Casaletto had lots of families. That's the one thing about chowhound and Katie and Elizabeth - you can get recommendations for great food at all different price points.

[Chunder Worthy]

Two places that I've visited and can personally vouch for on numerous trips to Rome:

 

1. Trattoria del Pallaro -- A GEM of a place located behind Piazza Navona, where for a fixed price of 25 Euro/person, grandma will provide a full (wine and dessert included) 4-course meal of whatever they want to give you (that they're making for all) that day!! Yup, they serve you what they want! So wonderful and so surprising. I've never been disappointed. Live a little with some fun and unique mystery!! Informal, inside/outside piazza seating. http://www.trattoriaderpallaro.com/

 

 

2. Filetti di Baccalà -- a stellar very informal (like pizza, eat with your hands) little find that specializes in ancient Roman fried cod (like a fish 'n chips place). This is the BEST place to get it. OMG, OMG, OMG!! Tucked away in a small, quaint alley - go for their outside seating with the string of colored lights; SO 50's retro-Rome!! Here's their Yelp review: http://www.yelp.com/biz/filetti-di-baccal%C3%A0-roma

 

Unfortunately, we won't be able to make Trattoria del Pallaro later this Summer (since we have to be back on the ship prior to their 7pm dinner opening, but we are DEFINITELY making a bee-line for Filetti di Baccalà -- my mouth is watering already!

 

Seriously, on both or either places, you'll thank me.