Itinerary Help: 3 Days in Provence (incl. Sun & Mon)

[bunnicooki]

Hey guys!

 

Hoping for a little help / advice narrowing down our 3 day itinerary in Provence.

 

We'll be arriving in Nimes on a Saturday afternoon via train from Barcelona around 1pm, and already have a rental car and apartment lined up. We depart for our next European destination early Tuesday morning out of Marseille airport, so that makes our main sightseeing days in Provence Sunday & Monday.

 

After reading that the area can be quiet on those two days, we've decided to do the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday morning followed by some leisurely driving through the Luberon, stopping to take photos and look around the villages when & where we're inspired. Thinking we'll try to hit Gordes, Roussillon, & Lourmarin maybe, but honestly, just exploring and driving and being together sounds like heaps of fun to us and the market sounds heavenly. If we head back to Nimes that evening, will we be able to find someplace yummy to eat there or should we expect things to be closed up since it's a Sunday?

 

We'll be coming off time in Rome as well, so ruins aren't super high on our priority list (though if they're easy to get to and around other places we end up, neat!) but are looking for more quintessentially Provencal experiences during our time in the area. We're pondering visits to St. Remy, Aix en Provence, Les Baux, Pont du Gard and wondered if you might be able to help give us some advice on where to head Saturday afternoon / evening & Monday to make the most of the limited time we have in the area keeping in mind what might be closed on Monday.

 

Reading through the forums here has been an enormous amount of help, so mainly hoping for some advice on what to do on Monday if you guys think special consideration needs to be made. Looking forward to hearing back from ya!

 

Thanks!

 

R

Edited February 14, 2016 by bunnicooki

[marazul]

You will find plenty of restaurants open on Sundays. It is the shops that close, except in designated tourist zones. The French don't mess with their food!

 

Since you are in Nimes, it is easy to visit the Pont du Gard and Avignon Saturday afternoon or else Les Baux and St Remy. For Monday, you can go to Arles and down to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue. Monday, you can also go to Arles and Les Baux and, if you have time, to St Remy. Don't forget to allow time for Nimes itself.

[bunnicooki]

Thanks so much for the reply marazul!

 

I just realized that we'll be there over Victory in Europe day on Sun, May 8th. Do you know if that holiday will affect the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue? Really hoping not.

 

I noticed you didn't mention Aix which we really want to visit rather than Avignon. Do you think that would be doable and nice on the Saturday afternoon or would it be equally lively on the Monday?

 

We aren't huge shoppers and are MUCH more nibblers :D but we'd probably enjoy stopping in a shoppe or two here or there if it caught our eye. I like the idea of St. Remy and Les Baux on Monday if you think that would work. Googling Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer now!

 

Thanks again for the advice & would love to hear more. Now I'm worried about that holiday weekend since we'll be there May 7-10.

 

R

[texasstar]

Rick Steve's Provence book is great for this area. We were there last fall and really enjoyed the hill towns of the Luberon area. We stayed south of Gordes at La Ferme de Huppe. It is a lovely place. The market on Sunday at L'Isle sur la Sorgue is one of the areas best. It is fun to walk around and look at the amazing stalls of fruit, vegetables, cheeses, flowers etc. Definitely see the Pont du Gard. Fodors forums also have great information on this area. Happy travels.

[marazul]

Thanks so much for the reply marazul!

 

I just realized that we'll be there over Victory in Europe day on Sun, May 8th. Do you know if that holiday will affect the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue? Really hoping not.

 

I noticed you didn't mention Aix which we really want to visit rather than Avignon. Do you think that would be doable and nice on the Saturday afternoon or would it be equally lively on the Monday?

 

We aren't huge shoppers and are MUCH more nibblers :D but we'd probably enjoy stopping in a shoppe or two here or there if it caught our eye. I like the idea of St. Remy and Les Baux on Monday if you think that would work. Googling Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer now!

 

Thanks again for the advice & would love to hear more. Now I'm worried about that holiday weekend since we'll be there May 7-10.

 

R

 

I didn't mention Aix because Avignon is the logical choice if you want to see the Pont du Gard. You can combine Arles and Aix in one day, or Aix and Les Baux. It is a matter of time. Just plot the places in the map and you will see why. You will enjoy Aix either day of the week. You may have to give up St Remy if you want to see Aix, but Aix is the better choice. Save St Remy for another trip.

 

As for V-E day, you will find normal activities will not be affected. However, every town will have a parade and wreath-laying ceremony in the morning.

 

We were in Nice last year on the 70th anniversary of V-E day. They had a solemn parade in the morning to the War memorial. In the afternoon, they held a great parade with old American tanks and jeeps and lots of American flags to honor the GIs that liberated the area. Things you never hear about over here...

[vakamalua]

We spent time in Provence last September using Les Baux as our base; we LOVED Les Baux--don't miss Eglise St Vincent, the Chapel of the Penitents, the Santon Museum, the great chocolate shop, etc. One of the highlights of our Provence trip was the Carriers de Lumieres in that area.

 

Roussillon is unique in that is surrounded by red ochre hills and cliffs; makes for a great (pretty easy) hike and wonderful photos. Gorde was a bit of a disappointment.

 

If you are Van Gogh admirers (we are), don't miss all the associated sites in Arles but especially the St Paul Hospital in Saint Remy where he spent a year and produced a huge body of work including his most famous masterpieces--very moving to be there and sense his genius in the midst of his mental struggles. There are also two spectacular Roman structures just sitting along the road across from the hospital.

 

After having been to Roman ruins on three continents, although impressive in its height, we were disappointed in the Pont du Gard due to the commercialization of the site and the much later addition to the structure.

 

If you get to Avignon, don't forget to dance on the bridge and sing 'Sur le Pont D'Avignon.'

[bunnicooki]

Awesome info from you guys! Thanks so much.

 

Do you think we should prioritize any area over another due to it being a Sunday/Monday? I've read so frequently that stores and restaurants close up tight on these days more than Tues-Sat, but that's what we have to work with so I just want to make sure we head the right direction on Saturday afternoon and again Monday.

 

For example, if Arles or Les Baux would be mostly the same whether we visit on Saturday or Monday and Aix would be more bustling on a Saturday afternoon / evening, perhaps it might be best to go there to wander and eat and people watch that day and save ruins / driving / naturally quieter spots for Monday?

 

Right now, our only firm plans are the market at Isle-sur-la-Sorgue on Sunday morning, and we plan on just seeing how we feel and which direction we want to head once we get there after that. Who knows we may arrive on the train and want to just wander around Nimes on Saturday and not want to head out anywhere else.

 

I may be overthinking things as a first-timer and I'm sure we're going to fall in love and wish we had more time no matter what we do or where we end up, but I do so appreciate all of the help and info, so thank you <3

[marazul]

I've read so frequently that stores and restaurants close up tight on these days more than Tues-Sat, but that's what we have to work with so I just want to make sure we head the right direction on Saturday afternoon and again Monday.

 

I may be overthinking things as a first-timer and I'm sure we're going to fall in love and wish we had more time no matter what we do or where we end up, but I do so appreciate all of the help and info, so thank you <3

 

Yes, you are overthinking this. Yes, most stores, shopping centers and supermarkets close on Sundays, that's the law, but restaurants ARE OPEN. Some restaurants may choose to close on Sundays, but plenty will be open. If you really want to visit a particular restaurant, go to their website and look up their schedule. Other than that, just walk around and find a place you like as you would do any other day. No chance of going hungry in France. Also, you will find that many small souvenir shops and stands will be open in the tourist areas, like Les Baux or around the Pope's Palace in Avignon, etc.

 

So, stick to your plans. Just be prepared to be flexible to add another place if you are ahead of schedule. For example, if you go to Les Baux first thing in the morning, you can park and visit the place without much wait. Then you have more time for some other place.

 

You will also find that cities like Arles, Aix and Avignon will be really alive in the middle of the week during business hours. People do live and work there, they are not merely a tourist attraction like Les Baux.

 

My only advice is to use google maps to plan your most efficient routes. And plan to go back.

[Hlitner]

We agree with Marazul that you do not want to overthink the situation. Weather will be a bigger factor then the day of the week. If the weather is good, Provence is a glorious region every day of the week. We personally like to drive over to Fontaine de Vaucluse, after we leave the market at Isle sur la Sorgue. Fontaine is an attractive little town (somewhat ruined by having become too popular) which is a delightful place to take a stroll on a nice day. Finding places like Fontaine are really helped by having a GPS. Your idea of driving to Gordes is also good (you can even do this after Fontaine).

 

Sundays are actually pretty special in this part of France...if you are in the right places. Not only are the tourists out enjoying the region, but even many of the local French are out and about with their families.

 

We should also stress that the amazing outdoor market at L'Isle Sur La Sorgue starts to close-up shortly after noon. The best (and most crowded hours) are from about 10 until shortly after noon. Be prepared to park some distance from the market (which is right in the center of town along the river) and have to walk up to 10 minutes just to get to the market (we have sometimes gotten lucky and found a nearby spot). DW and I fell in love with this market many years ago and never miss a chance to visit whenever we are in the region and the weather cooperates. It is an expansive combination of antiques, flea market junk (some of this stuff is fascinating), regional food products, wines, clothes, etc. Many of the local shops are also open during the market.

 

Hank

Edited February 15, 2016 by Hlitner

[bunnicooki]

Thanks so much guys! You've said just what I needed to hear <3 Can't wait for the trip!

[Mrs Miggins]

Another vote for Carriers de Lumieres in Les Baux. We have never seen anything like it before. Combined with the Castle and views that would make a lovely morning. We arrived early so that we could park close to the town gate, then had a wonderful breakfast just inside the gate at Hostellierie le la Reine Jeanne, up through the streets, around the castle (wear sensible shoes) then down to the Lumieres, which was a complete and unexpected delight. Back to the town and lunch overlooking the wonderful views. Bliss !

 

We also tried the market in Sorgues, but never managed to park and gave up! The town was so busy I could have jumped out of the car and bought something from a stall while the car was mostly stationary. When we got back to our hotel in St Remy, the porter told us he lived in the town and could have told us a 'secret' place to park, so I recommend getting some local advice before you set out.

We had such a great week that we return in May for 4 days staying in St Paul de Vence, after our Azamara cruise, so that we can further explore the surrounding area.

[Lutèce]

Yes, most stores, shopping centers and supermarkets close on Sundays, that's the law, but restaurants ARE OPEN.

 

In France, Sunday lunch is a big deal and although some restaurants will be open on Sunday evening, many will close after lunch until the following Tuesday.

If it fits in with your plans, I would thoroughly recommend booking for Sunday lunch somewhere which will typically start just after midi (noon) and can finish several hours later. Quite often the restaurant will be filled with family parties - birthdays, first communions and it's a lovely, typically French experience.:)

[Hlitner]

Another vote for Carriers de Lumieres in Les Baux. We have never seen anything like it before. Combined with the Castle and views that would make a lovely morning. We arrived early so that we could park close to the town gate, then had a wonderful breakfast just inside the gate at Hostellierie le la Reine Jeanne, up through the streets, around the castle (wear sensible shoes) then down to the Lumieres, which was a complete and unexpected delight. Back to the town and lunch overlooking the wonderful views. Bliss !

 

We also tried the market in Sorgues, but never managed to park and gave up! The town was so busy I could have jumped out of the car and bought something from a stall while the car was mostly stationary. When we got back to our hotel in St Remy, the porter told us he lived in the town and could have told us a 'secret' place to park, so I recommend getting some local advice before you set out.

We had such a great week that we return in May for 4 days staying in St Paul de Vence, after our Azamara cruise, so that we can further explore the surrounding area.

 

There is a trick to parking for the market. Do not try to get all the way into town (along the river) and on the main street (Quai's) which are usually too darn congested. We park somewhere in the residential areas at least 4 blocks off the main street. Parking is free but sometimes it does take 5-10 min to find a spot. For us this is not an issue since we love to walk....but it can be a real problem for those with major mobility issues.

 

Hank

[buggins0402]

We agree with Marazul that you do not want to overthink the situation. Weather will be a bigger factor then the day of the week. If the weather is good, Provence is a glorious region every day of the week. We personally like to drive over to Fontaine de Vaucluse, after we leave the market at Isle sur la Sorgue. Fontaine is an attractive little town (somewhat ruined by having become too popular) which is a delightful place to take a stroll on a nice day. Finding places like Fontaine are really helped by having a GPS. Your idea of driving to Gordes is also good (you can even do this after Fontaine).

 

Sundays are actually pretty special in this part of France...if you are in the right places. Not only are the tourists out enjoying the region, but even many of the local French are out and about with their families.

 

We should also stress that the amazing outdoor market at L'Isle Sur La Sorgue starts to close-up shortly after noon. The best (and most crowded hours) are from about 10 until shortly after noon. Be prepared to park some distance from the market (which is right in the center of town along the river) and have to walk up to 10 minutes just to get to the market (we have sometimes gotten lucky and found a nearby spot). DW and I fell in love with this market many years ago and never miss a chance to visit whenever we are in the region and the weather cooperates. It is an expansive combination of antiques, flea market junk (some of this stuff is fascinating), regional food products, wines, clothes, etc. Many of the local shops are also open during the market.

 

Hank

 

We followed the same route as outlined by Hank...started with the market, went to Fountaine de Vaucluse, had a bite for lunch (and yes there were large families in the restaurant celebrating something), headed over to Gordes and finished with the Abbaye de Sananque. The Abbaye was very picturesque even though the lavender field beside it was not in bloom. The Abbaye with lavender in bloom is almost a "stock picture" of Provence.

[bunnicooki]

I just wanted to say thanks again to all of you for the tips and advice.

 

I think we're going to spend our afternoon / evening Saturday in Aix.

Head to L'Isle on Sunday morning and spend the day driving & stopping where we feel inspired throughout the Luberon that afternoon.

And then just decide where we feel like heading on Monday. I like the idea of Les Baux & St Remy but our host in Nimes also recommended that we consider Aigues-Mortes too, so we'll see how we're feeling while we're there and go from there.

 

I read a post on Fodor's where one gal went with this huge list of places to see over their 3 day trip and ended up spending the entire day in Arles with no regrets because they just loved it... so I think we'll just go that route since we're mellow travelers and enjoy wherever we end up with our loose plans :)

 

Thanks again! As always you guys are a wealth of info for anyone planning a trip <3

[Hlitner]

I just wanted to say thanks again to all of you for the tips and advice.

 

I think we're going to spend our afternoon / evening Saturday in Aix.

Head to L'Isle on Sunday morning and spend the day driving & stopping where we feel inspired throughout the Luberon that afternoon.

And then just decide where we feel like heading on Monday. I like the idea of Les Baux & St Remy but our host in Nimes also recommended that we consider Aigues-Mortes too, so we'll see how we're feeling while we're there and go from there.

 

I read a post on Fodor's where one gal went with this huge list of places to see over their 3 day trip and ended up spending the entire day in Arles with no regrets because they just loved it... so I think we'll just go that route since we're mellow travelers and enjoy wherever we end up with our loose plans :)

 

Thanks again! As always you guys are a wealth of info for anyone planning a trip <3

 

The Fodor post is near and dear to the heart :). A few years ago, DW and I had an entire day in Rome (we were staying in a hotel) with a long list of "to do" things. About 11am we stopped at an outdoor cafe in the Piazza Navona (our favorite spot in Rome) for a quick cappuccino. It was a gorgeous day and the People Watching was lots of fun and quite amusing. About 1pm (still at our seats in that well located cafe) we ordered lunch....at about 3pm we ordered more wine....and we finally left that table about 7pm....only because we had dinner reservations elsewhere. So our entire day was spent just sitting at one table, at one cafe, at one Piazza. And it still ranks as one of our most memorable days in Rome. Go figure.

 

Hank

[marazul]

And then just decide where we feel like heading on Monday. I like the idea of Les Baux & St Remy but our host in Nimes also recommended that we consider Aigues-Mortes too, so we'll see how we're feeling while we're there and go from there.

 

Aigues-Mortes is very close to Ste Maries de la Mer. Visit both. The drive through the Camargue is great. With any luck you will get to see the wild horses that live in those marshes.

[Hlitner]

Aigues-Mortes is very close to Ste Maries de la Mer. Visit both. The drive through the Camargue is great. With any luck you will get to see the wild horses that live in those marshes.

 

Now that is an interesting area worthy of drive. But we thought the best part of Aigues-Mortes were the walls (still quite impressive). Inside the walls is somewhat of a tourist town which left us somewhat disappointed. We seldom recommend it for port days as we think its a bit remote given the time folks have on those short days.

 

Hank

[Host Bonjour]

The Fodor post is near and dear to the heart :). A few years ago, DW and I had an entire day in Rome (we were staying in a hotel) with a long list of "to do" things. About 11am we stopped at an outdoor cafe in the Piazza Navona (our favorite spot in Rome) for a quick cappuccino. It was a gorgeous day and the People Watching was lots of fun and quite amusing. About 1pm (still at our seats in that well located cafe) we ordered lunch....at about 3pm we ordered more wine....and we finally left that table about 7pm....only because we had dinner reservations elsewhere. So our entire day was spent just sitting at one table, at one cafe, at one Piazza. And it still ranks as one of our most memorable days in Rome. Go figure.

 

Hank

 

Love this story! And that's just as great a trip as a full day's itinerary - languishing the day away in a gorgeous setting with someone special (or alone, in Rome, one is never alone!) enjoying refreshments, snacks and taking it all in, soaking up the sun, no hurry, no rush - just being there.

 

Of of my favorite travel quotes "If you've seen everything, you've seen nothing" (I think it's Susan Sontag but I might be wrong) as hard as it can often be to contend with the dreaded "FOMO" or, fear of missing out, often easy to get caught up in the running/doing/busy but there's much enjoyment to be had in the just "BEING" there.

 

Thanks for your posts on experiences (and yes, Piazza Navona is splendid!) of doing just that - sometimes these memories stay with us forever whereas the rest are just flashes. Something to keep in mind and not feel guilty about slowing down once in awhile ;)

Edited February 17, 2016 by Host Bonjour

[buggins0402]

Now that is an interesting area worthy of drive. But we thought the best part of Aigues-Mortes were the walls (still quite impressive). Inside the walls is somewhat of a tourist town which left us somewhat disappointed. We seldom recommend it for port days as we think its a bit remote given the time folks have on those short days.

 

Hank

 

I'm in the same camp as Hank on Aigues-Mortes (we found it to be a town without a soul). We did enjoy Ste Marie de la Mer and the Carmague...but the former because it was so strange (mix a bit of American west, beach community, France and Spain in equal parts) and the latter for the natural beauty. With three days, there are better places in Provence though.

[bunnicooki]

With three days, there are better places in Provence though.

 

Noted. Out of curiosity, knowing we're going Aix and The Luberon, where would you head for your day 3 (Monday)? I love hearing other people's experiences so much!

 

Also... just fyi, we were originally going to go on the Vista's inaugural cruise, which would have been our first trip to mainland Europe but decided once we got into the trip planning that a few hours in each of these cities just wasn't going to be enough for us. So we're flying into Venice and out of Paris like we had already arranged with the cruise but we'll be seeing Rome, Barcelona, Provence & Amsterdam in between over 21 days. We know it's a lot, but we figured it's a heck of a lot more time in all of these cities than we were going to get to spend on the cruise, so we're super excited.

 

We've been to Iceland and our favorite days were just getting in the car and driving. We did Golden Circle on our own and seriously spent the ENTIRE day stopping here there and everywhere tromping through snow to pet horses, walk down to see roadside waterfalls, etc. So we're the type of traveler's who like to head a direction without really having to BE anywhere if that makes sense. Soaking it all in at our own pace is heaven to us and Provence looks ideal for that.

 

Anyhow, thanks again, really loving reading everyone's thoughts :)

[buggins0402]

Noted. Out of curiosity, knowing we're going Aix and The Luberon, where would you head for your day 3 (Monday)? I love hearing other people's experiences so much!

 

Also... just fyi, we were originally going to go on the Vista's inaugural cruise, which would have been our first trip to mainland Europe but decided once we got into the trip planning that a few hours in each of these cities just wasn't going to be enough for us. So we're flying into Venice and out of Paris like we had already arranged with the cruise but we'll be seeing Rome, Barcelona, Provence & Amsterdam in between over 21 days. We know it's a lot, but we figured it's a heck of a lot more time in all of these cities than we were going to get to spend on the cruise, so we're super excited.

 

We've been to Iceland and our favorite days were just getting in the car and driving. We did Golden Circle on our own and seriously spent the ENTIRE day stopping here there and everywhere tromping through snow to pet horses, walk down to see roadside waterfalls, etc. So we're the type of traveler's who like to head a direction without really having to BE anywhere if that makes sense. Soaking it all in at our own pace is heaven to us and Provence looks ideal for that.

 

Anyhow, thanks again, really loving reading everyone's thoughts :)

 

Your trip sounds wonderful!

 

As for the third day, Marazul had some good suggestions in the second post:

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/showpost.php?p=49088398&postcount=2

 

Another thought...I've never been to Nimes, but you could do a day and just "chill" like a native there. Or, add just a quick trip to pont du gard and spend the rest of they day in Nimes.

Edited February 18, 2016 by buggins0402