Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Arenas, Chile

Day 40

 

Later that day I headed over to the markets. The people on the b2b talked about the Empanadas over there.

 

As well as the best Empanada ever – seafood of course, I discovered a wonderful new drink. “Calafate Sour”. Calafate is a local berry made into a liquor, it’s then mixed with a Pisco Sour and topped off with a lemon drink. Amazing. So much yum!

 

 

The markets were great if you were looking for handicrafts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That night we went past the Southern most point of The Americas. So it’s uphill from here.

 

A fun night was had in the lounge.

 

We are now sailing further through the Magellan Strait with the next two days up through the Chilean Fjords.

[critterchick]

I have just read your blog from beginning to end (I read 2 pages last night and caught up this morning). Wow! We are going to Antarctica on an expedition-ish ship (Ponant's Le Lyrial) in January, and also booked the trip to the Falklands and South Georgia to get the most out of it. Thank you so much for sharing!

 

I noticed you made a comment about missing Giovanni's Table on Rhapsody. I hope you discovered that they do have it - we have enjoyed a few meals there!

[AussieVisi2r]

OOPS!!

 

Temporary insanity. Rhapsody does have Giovanni's!!!!! You must have thought I was crazy. It's Legend that was also on recently that doesn't.

I has some awesome evening there.

 

HAHHA

 

Raina

[AussieVisi2r]

I have just read your blog from beginning to end (I read 2 pages last night and caught up this morning). Wow! We are going to Antarctica on an expedition-ish ship (Ponant's Le Lyrial) in January, and also booked the trip to the Falklands and South Georgia to get the most out of it. Thank you so much for sharing!

 

I noticed you made a comment about missing Giovanni's Table on Rhapsody. I hope you discovered that they do have it - we have enjoyed a few meals there!

 

Glad you are enjoying it. You will have a ball. It certainly is a magical place.

 

Hahah - I realised my Giovanni's error - and too late to go back and edit.

 

R

[Sharkb8]

Very generous, thank you! I will send an email once you are at home and able to send a high-res easily. He's working on a panorama of Iguazu, so I will send you a copy!

 

Hi Jean,

 

That would be lovely to give him a print. Help yourself. What a lovely compliment!

If the quality you get from here is not high enough send me an email and I'll send you a copy.

 

rainaburke dot oz at gmail dot com.

 

Cheers

[Sharkb8]

Excellent!! We got around The Horn five years ago (no stones, no passport) and didn't make it around in March, but loved Capt. Dimas, so that almost made up for it. I am one that tends to tuck away a stone or a shell. And I have two RCI t-shirts, which they apparently no longer print for the occasion!

 

 

 

At Sea – “Around the Horn” - Southern Atlantic

Day 38

 

We did a two hour leisurely sail around (including a stop at the Chile base to drop in our paper work).

 

 

 

 

We got a treat that night. When they dropped staff off at he Chile Base, that also dropped off two suitcases of passports. A few staff sat and stamped more then 3000 passports (they took the staff passports as well). That is pretty exciting. And the real treat was that other staff members went and picked up the same number of beach stones. We each got one. I love to pick up a rock at places I go, so Antarctic was torture that you cannot take or leave anything. A rock from here was very exciting.

 

I was a little bit conflicted about them taking so many rocks......but i guess very few ships get there. And Captain Dimas was so happy to finally get Around the Horn. Turns out it was the two trips before us (and the one after) that didn't make it.

 

After our loop around we went to pick up the rescue boat - and our passports. That was a lot more difficult then planned and we spun around for about half an hour trying to get them out of the wind enough to get them back onto the ship.

 

And of course we got our certificates. A great day!

 

 

Then headed off to Ushuaia. Which is good as I love Ushuaia.

[Setting sail for fun]

What an amazing adventure!!! Thanks for sharing.

[AussieVisi2r]

Chilean Fjords, Chile

Day 41

 

Overnight we had made our way along the Magellan Strait. At 3.30am we hit the Pacific Ocean - well, it hit us. A good storm that woke most people up, and banged for the rest of the night. It wasn’t that rough…it was just noisy.

 

Early in the morning we turned north and were back into the sheltered Fjords area.

 

From then on the view went from fantastic to spectacular.

 

 

I’ve sailed through the NZ Sounds, Norway Fjords, Alaskan Inside Passage and The Swedish Archipelago – all brilliant. But this was all that and more.

Such stunning country (to look at - not to live in) and so close.

 

 

After lunch we pulled up at “El Brujo Glacier” and looked. Pronounced ‘Brew Hoo’. Bruju is a Warlock in Spanish and is such a cool word!

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Chilean Fjords, Chile

Day 41

El Brujo Glacier

 

They sent the rescue boat out to collect ice for our cocktails.

 

 

 

There was a small expedition ship at the glacier with a group off in a zodiac. I could feel them looking at me, laughing and thinking “Ha, look at her on the huge ship and look at us on the land near the ice”.

Little did they know where I had just been! LOL.

 

 

 

 

It was then more of this viewing until dark. No chance of a nap today. It's wonderful sailing past little Bergy Bits again.

 

 

What a spectacular day!

[AussieVisi2r]

More Chilean Fjords, Chile

Day 42

 

 

Another lovely day of sailing past stunning landscapes.

The ‘huge seas’, that we had been warned of for last night were fine. A few things did fall off shelves in my room but it wasn’t terribly rough. By mid morning we came back into the Fjords and were travelling on glassy water again.

 

 

 

The morning started with the Crown and Anchor brunch for high level members. It was lovely but the exciting thing was Ray, an Aussie that we met on the Asian cruise last year reached Pinnacle and got his awards. Very exciting – and so good to cheer for an Aussie. (There are three Aussie Pinnacles now).

 

 

He gave a heartfelt speech about how he got many of his point with his wife, how much he missed her, and that she was with him in his heart achieving Pinnacle.

 

 

Rhapsody really does great C&A events.

 

The back to the view.

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

More Chilean Fjords, Chile

Day 42

 

The afternoon was spent watching more amazing stuff. The giant Jellyfish that we have seen in Aquariums were floating by,

 

 

...white rocks (guano) covered in Cormorants,

 

 

Lighthouses and Sea Lions.

 

 

 

 

Only problem was that we were now heading due north - and the western sun was not nice. But we came up with a way to fix that.

 

 

You don't get many sea days this pretty. Or calm.

 

Lovely!

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Montt, Chile

Day 43

 

We sailed up in inlet and tendered into the town of Puerto Montt. The town was established in 1853 by German immigrants. It’s now a transit port and is the business district of the Los Largos Region - Lakes District.

 

Three of us got a taxi at the port and negotiated a price. $50 each for about 6 hours. The driver only spoke Spanish - but that was OK, the other two had Spanish.

 

It was then up to Largos Llanquihue. The second largest lake in Chile. And the largest wholly within Chile.

 

 

First stop was at a town called Fruitllar (Fruit – ee – ar), the city of Music. German solider settler established the town in 1856 and very German looking it is. Many of the houses would be very at home in the Alps. All built with shingles.

 

 

 

 

 

Teatro del Lago is the stunning theatre build over the lake and is apparently the best acoustic theatre ever built in South America.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Montt, Chile

Day 43

 

There are two volcanoes across the lake. One erupted last year with an 18 kl plume. Only ash damage. The fog finally lifted enough to see them. It was still hazy but we could see them. They look awfully stunning across the lake.

 

 

 

There was a ships tour that went on a chairlift to the summit. Next time!

 

The lake is SO clean. Unbelievably clear. I have never seen anything like it. It is only shallow for a log way out but crystal clear!

 

 

We also saw lots of great birds and heaps of great scenery.

 

Turkey Vulture.

 

 

 

And I SAW AN OTTER!!!!! Squeal with excitement. A Southern River Otter. It was a young one and ran onto the road where it was very close to the lake and did a few leaps and jumps in its panic. Lucky we didn’t hit it –as it was an otter – and they are endangered. How awesome!

 

World's worst photo ......but I was so excited I just looked for many seconds then thought to grab the camera, turn on and shoot. LOL1

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Montt, Chile

Day 43

 

Downtown Puerto Montt!

How would you like this outside your house.

 

 

 

 

 

More dead ships.

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Montt, Chile

Day 43

 

We then headed back into Puerto Montt and looked at some views from the lookouts.

 

 

And some funny looking markets.

 

 

The harbour was really pretty and had some great boats out and about and a beautiful little fishing village. Made the tender trip lovely.

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Puerto Montt, Chile

Day 43

 

We had an amazing sunset tonight.

 

 

Here is our sun screen for the outside. We thought we were pretty clever.

Others sicky taped sheets of paper to the windows. LOL

 

 

We also saw drilling rigs and went underneath power lines. Haven't done that before in a ship!

 

 

 

It was getting towards the sad part of the trip. One sea day to go.

 

[scottam]

Sorry this is the longest blog...and slowest, but we are getting there!

 

Raina

No so! I know we are nearing the end and I am sad! This has been one of the most enjoyable, entertaining and informative reviews of a cruise I have ever read. Thank you for taking the time to share. I already wanted to go to Antarctica. Now it's not a matter of "want," it's a matter of "must!"

 

Thank you!

[AussieVisi2r]

No so! I know we are nearing the end and I am sad! This has been one of the most enjoyable, entertaining and informative reviews of a cruise I have ever read. Thank you for taking the time to share. I already wanted to go to Antarctica. Now it's not a matter of "want," it's a matter of "must!"

 

Thank you!

 

Must is good!!!!!! :D

[scottam]

Raina,

Can you share with us some info on the specialty gear/clothing that you brought and wore for Antarctica? What items, other than camera and computer, couldn't you have lived without and what did you bring and never use? We have our eye on an expedition cruise such as the one you did, as opposed to a sail by.

 

Thanks again for an enjoyable read and informative review!

[AussieVisi2r]

Raina,

Can you share with us some info on the specialty gear/clothing that you brought and wore for Antarctica? What items, other than camera and computer, couldn't you have lived without and what did you bring and never use? We have our eye on an expedition cruise such as the one you did, as opposed to a sail by.

 

Thanks again for an enjoyable read and informative review!

 

Certainly. I'll do that soon.

 

Raina

[AussieVisi2r]

At Sea

Day 44

 

Last day on the cruise. A lovely day with some Trivia, visiting people, bridge tour and final night drinks in the lounge. And of course that horrible activity called packing.

 

The day started with a super heavy fog. No idea what the landscape was like as visibility was about 5 metres. Fog horn was sounding every five minutes.

 

View.

 

 

View from the lounge.

 

 

The fog was lifting by 4.30 in time for my bridge tour. That was a good thing as a whale spouted off in the distance, then numerous fur seals when sailing by.

 

 

A huge pod of dolphins played along side us for a while.

 

 

And of course the fog was totally gone in time to let the sun blast into the Concierge Lounge by drinks time.

 

A fun night was had.

 

 

 

This really was a fantastic cruise. If the put "Around the Horn" on in 2018 - jump on board it was great. A mix of huge cities and small towns, desert and Patagonia, Glaciers and Fjords, as far south as you can go in the Americas. So amazing.

[AussieVisi2r]

Valparaiso, Chile

Day 45 – GET OFF MY SHIP DAY!

 

Getting off the ship was quick and easy. It was a working port so off the ship and onto a bus to the entrance then out. Our luggage was waiting at the end - not at the start.

 

I was doing a tour with a CC group. A tour of Valpariso then into Santiago. It took about 30 minutes to find our bus and all our group but then off we headed on our tour.

 

Chile is controlled by 10 families. All retail. All industry. All politics. The fishing industry (which farms much of the worlds "Atlantic Salmon" is owned by one family). Democracy is a bit different here.

 

 

 

Everything was different! But amazing!

 

First stop was a look out over the port, with of course many tourist shops. Yay 30 minutes! I hate 'tourist things - souvenirs etc!

 

The tiny "keyhole" car park was controlled by a little old lady who ordered the buses around then took money from them. She had a high vis vest. Not sure if she was official or an entrepreneur. But the tiny car park was very efficient. Rolling Tetris at its finest.

 

 

 

We then looked around at other lovely views before heading ‘up the hills’ to the poorer parts of town. In Valparaiso the poor areas are up the hill with the stunning views. The expensive areas are down on the flat.

Why? Roads and services…or lack of them.

 

 

The hills are a network of houses sprawling off each other, perched on the sides of hills and steep drop offs. There are main roads around the suburbs - but none between the houses. There were a few buses that run around the main roads - but then a 'network' of cars/taxis. They drove around a defined loop on the smaller roads. You flag one down and jump in. So there might be 4 people getting out, at four different places on board. It travels around its loop and you say when you want to get out. The cost is the same as the bus. Looked like they were making a good trade and very hand for the locals. But then they had to wind their ways up or down - hundreds of meters up twisty, skinny steep staircases to their houses - carrying their groceries or whatever.

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Valparaiso, Chile

Day 45 – GET OFF MY SHIP DAY!

 

Valparaiso is/was also an Artist area. Very Bohemian. Therefore the street art is spectacular. The houses are painted in bright colours and many have murals. It amazing.

 

 

 

Street art AND rusty stuff! YAY.

 

 

 

 

Unless of course if you hate street art.

 

 

The other thing they have is dogs! Millions of dogs. The houses don’t have yards – and these are not sweet little inside dogs. These are big dogs. And they all live on the street then go home for some food. Some just live on the streets. Some had kennels in lane ways and on the side of the road. And they all poo. Everywhere. It was

 

So did I mention how many dogs there are! funny – seeing 10 of us picking our way along the skinny streets and dodging the poo. At least one poo in ever square metre. All of our group were dog people - but still worried about the smell and the tip toe game. Some of the group were not lucky at all times and had to play the foot scraping game - a lot!

 

And here is the kicker. As they are mainly devote Catholics……they do not believe in desexing of dogs! That would be interfering in Gods work!

[AussieVisi2r]

Valparaiso, Chile

Day 45 – GET OFF MY SHIP DAY!

 

 

 

 

 

We went for a ride on a Funicular down one of the amazing hills - wow, so steep.

[Panda3]

Amazing Trip - Thank you for sharing!!