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Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.


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Thanks so much for this great blog! I'm really enjoying it. I'm only taking a break from it to thank you for the pronunciation to the places...I've been wondering how to say them. Now I'm wondering if I'll be pronouncing them with an Aussie accent! :p:D No matter, I'll just be happy to be there!

 

Now, back to the blog!

 

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Thanks so much for this great blog! I'm really enjoying it. I'm only taking a break from it to thank you for the pronunciation to the places...I've been wondering how to say them. Now I'm wondering if I'll be pronouncing them with an Aussie accent! :p:D No matter, I'll just be happy to be there!

 

Now, back to the blog!

 

 

That made me laugh very loudly. Hopefully not to Aussie - tried to be as local as I could. :D

 

Raina

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Day 19

Prion Island

 

The hill is covered in the sub Antarctic tussocks. They are beautiful. Long thing leaves about a cm wide. They grown out of a buttress type thing. They would be an awesome garden plant. The buttress is not unlike the baskets you get to put ferns in – a dense thatch matting type material. And then the leaves spill down like a ground cover. The hills are covered with them.

 

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And of course they are covered in seals. Way up high – seals everywhere. They often sit on top of the tussocks and give them a flat top. Talk about a room with a view. There are also large patches of a beautiful moss.

 

And I love the molting.

 

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Because the view is stunning.

 

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Day 19

Prion Island

 

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Prion island is in a sheltered bay. The water was like glass.

 

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And the colours here are so vibrant. Maybe it’s the super clean air…maybe it’s because we went for 10 days without the colour green… but it is stunning. And then the rocks have heaps of orange in them. That and the water is very turquoise. Everything looks amazing.

 

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Down at the beach level there are hundreds of tiny seals waiting for their mums. Frolicking, playing, practicing their water skills, being roused on by penguins and of course sleeping. I do believe they sleep as much as a dog.

 

And more penguins. This time it was Gentoos. And a few kings.

 

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The rocks are so stunning. So much colour.

 

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We went out through a kelp bed where he had to pick a path.

 

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Day 19

Prion Island

 

On the rocks we saw Pipits. This island is one of the few that rats didn’t get into, so the breeding stock here has been repopulating the whole of South Georgia as they spread back to other areas. The Birders were pretty excited!

 

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Then further out past amazing cliffs and rocky outcrops.

 

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We went around an island and into a channel with huge kelp beds. This kelp makes our big stuff look tiny. In the area around the shore it was about 20 m long and so thick. It was also in a really dense growth pattern and looked sensational in surging water. In some places it was wound into a huge ball. Others were like intricate art works as the waves went back. For about 20 minutes we had to lift the motor and paddle. So lovely. Now I had the added excitement of the lichen all over the rocks. Again I was nearly busting with excitement at the beauty of this place.

 

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Day 19

Prion Island

 

 

The bird life was amazing.

 

Storm Petral

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Cormorant.

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Could you work this chick out?

 

Giant Petrals

 

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This really is a magic spot.

 

We saw more Pipits, a Cormorant rookery with (big) babies being fed. Sooty and Wandering Albatross. Seals and more seals. Leaping penguins.

 

It was then back to the ship. This being the last zodiac in is a bit of an ongoing theme. Now time to leave South Georgia.

 

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We made six out of our six planned excursions. Pretty flash! The weather has been magical. So has everything.

 

We set sail but still had to keep rushing out to look as we passed huge glaciers and more spectacular scenery.

 

 

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Day 19

At sea

53°49,7’S

38°11,5’W

 

South Georgia – I do love you. You are amazing! And I am so happy that I bought into the rat program so that others can see this in the coming years.

 

Again I say how mean they are on this trip. In the afternoon I spent some time working on my photos. When I finished I put the computer down, snuggled up and started to have a nap. Crackle goes the PA. ”Whales at 11 o’clock.”

 

So of course off I went. Fin whales.

 

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A pod of 4. So wonderful. And a few humpbacks off in the distance. There were also Albatross. And many groups of penguins out fishing. Huge mobs of the elusive Macaroni. They are so cute with their little yellow hairdo’s flashing as they dived. There must have been a lot of fish out there as there were so many mobs of penguins, many seals and heaps of birds.

 

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It was great.

 

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Time for a cup of tea in the lounge. Flipper came rushing in, then out onto the deck. I ran for a coat and the big camera in time for ……………Ahhhhhhh. Only 6 people went out and saw.

 

Squeal with Excitement.

 

I SAW A BLUE WHALE!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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See the aqua glow behind this ones fin. Turns out it was a mother and calf. More squealing. We didn't notice that until I found two blows in photos late that night - and went running up to staff to check. Apparently we had a radio call from the Nat Geo ship that they were tracking a mother and calf! How wonderful.

 

There are only 5-10,000 Blues int he world. AND I SAW 2 OF THEM! I am an extremely lucky person.

 

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A fare way off. The photos are average……..but I saw it and could see the different grey of it’s skin. And it looked like a swimming cigar.

 

SO EXCITED.

 

I SAW A BLUE WHALE!

 

So now we have left South Georgia and Antarctica. WOW what a place.

We are now off to The Falklands / Malvinas. To see more exciting things and to get some fuel. We will have been going for 17 days by the time we get there. Must be a big fuel tank!

 

Tomorrow at sea. And super bonus tonight. Clocks go back one hour AND NO wake up call. Pure bliss.

Edited by AussieVisi2r
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Day 20 Atlantic Ocean

At sea

53°06,8’S

44°46,4’W

 

This morning I leant that the super over pants I wear are not so super without thermals underneath. They are waterproof and padded but not thermal. An early morning call for ‘Hourglass Dolphins’ outside. As I was still in PJs I just put on my over pants and jacket and ran out. I was not freezing…but I now really know how efficient thermal pants are. LOL.

 

This is not my photo - just wanted to let you see an Hourglass Dolphin.

 

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Today was a lovely relaxing day. A few lectures on The Ozone Layer and one on Climate Change. And lots of relaxing and playing cards. Much fun.

 

We had a charity auction that night to ‘kill the rat’ at South Georgia.

I bought the ships flag. I didn't mean to buy the flag - but when I say it I decided that I did. The one that is flying this cruise! I have taken many photos of it flapping at the front of the ship. The staff will all sign it when we bring it in! How exciting. Great memento.

 

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The price I paid bought another hectare of land in the Rat Eradication program. I was happy.

 

The Atlantic Ocean and the ‘Furious Fifties” were very kind to us. The seas wereonly about 4 meters.

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Day 21 At Sea Atlantic Ocean

54°58,9´S

66°50,6´W

 

Big seas last night. It was great times as everyone was in bed and could enjoy it. Well, many of us enjoyed it. Many didn’t. One lady got up and packed a bag to be ready for the abandon ship call. She was sure the ship was going down. She was a bit sad when she was told you don’t get to bring a bag on the lifeboats. Another person fell out of bed.

 

It did feel like you were falling out a few times – but as your bed is moving with you it must be like an illusion. When lying in bed it feels like you are being moved in a big circle of about 2 meters. I loved it. Although it did me up.

 

Another lovely quiet day today with relaxing, laughing and looking at the fog.

 

Tomorrow as we are off to Port Stanley in the Falklands. (I call it Falklands as now we are in British territory – When back in Argentina I will call it Malvinas.)

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Day 22

Port Stanley, The Falklands

51°41,5´S

57°49,4´W

 

The Falklands.......or The Malvinas. Don't call it the Falklands when in Argentina. They are pretty passionate about it.

 

A few facts:

 

1350 ks from South America in the South Atlantic.

740 islands

Mainly grasslands with gentle slopes.

No Indigenous people. Was first occupied in 1764 by the French. But they left.

Charles Darwin visited in 1830's and used data for the "On the Origin of Species" book.

The British made a claim in 1765 and settled in 1833. Stanley is the capital.

1882 Argentina decided they wanted the Falklands. They had never had a settlement there.

April 2nd to June 14th 1982 Argentine troops occupied the islands. Britain won.

 

Today it is all about fishing, tourism and wool mutton and beef.

200 bird species

70% of the worlds black-browed albatross population

Penguins King, Gentoo, Rock Hopper, Magellan and Marconi.

175 native plant

 

We pulled into Port Stanley. To a wharf! We refuelled. It's been a long way since Ushuaia. How fancy. And bussed out to Gypsy Cove, about 10ks from town.

 

The weather was truly perfect. Well MY perfect! 12 degrees, sun shinning, not a puff of wind. It was light jackets and thermals under. No over pants.

 

Our briefing included all the normal stuff like “keep to the marked areas”, “don’t go close ……..” But this one had some very strong warning.

“DO NOT GO OFF THE PATHS. The area was heavily mined and the areas have not been cleared.” We didn’t stray off the paths!

 

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Sad. Finally I had found a country with beach’s coming close to the beauty of Australian beaches. But you can only look at them here – not go on them. Very few of the beaches are cleared of mines.

War – the gift that keeps on giving!

 

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But they are big with great white sand and lovely vegetation around the edges. The dunes were really well vegetated with gorse, and huge rocky outcrops. Further away were expose sand dunes.

 

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And lots of bird life – Upland geese were beautiful and many Magellan Penguins.

 

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Day 22

Port Stanley, The Falklands

 

A mob of Peals Dolphins came and played close in for quiet a while. So I can tick off another kind of Dolphin. They are a large dolphin like ours but with pale grey sides. They were so relaxed and just out for a Friday cruise.

 

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Just a bit of wind on the peak, and a war reminder.

 

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The vegetation was beautiful.

 

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Gypsy Cove was Lovely. The Dolphins stayed with us for an hour.

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Day 22

Port Stanley, The Falklands

 

Back to the ship for a quick change then into Port Stanley.

 

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Who would have thought? Port Stanley is awesome. Not to live in….it has a population of 2,200 people…but to visit. 2,500 in the whole Falklands. But the town is amazing.

 

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“More British than Britain” is the saying, and yes indeed. No influence from Europe or US. It was a bit like an episode of something like “Heartbeat” set in rural England in the 60’s.

All ‘those’ words fit… cute, quaint, charming! They fit perfectly here.

 

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The place is tiny and full of tourist shops. The houses are also very small and all the same with stunning gardens. Many places have green houses ranging from garden shed size to most of the back yard.

 

Almost all of the cars were Land Rovers.

 

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Day 22

Port Stanley, The Falklands

 

There were three small ships in today. The S S was one of them. It’s the super expensive cruise line – but not a real expedition ship - a super sail by ship And some were just a bit snooty.

Funny how cruisers all talk to each other. Helen struck up a conversation with two ladies. …..Well tried too, it was like pulling teeth and seemed like Helen was asking for their bank account details. They thought we were Russian spies.

 

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We walked into the post office and there was a lady buying stamps. She was also from the other ship. She carried on about the stamp she wanted, demanding this one not that one, then complained that her change was not shiny enough. As I was about to be served a man from that ship (cause they had their jackets on) just cut in and wanted info about buying a phone card and how much it cost per minute. He was not at all happy that the post office lady could not answer his questions. There was much rolling of eyes and huffing when he was told he had to go to the phone shop to find that out. He was not a happy man. We thought it was very funny! Again like a TV show.

I do believe I picked the correct ship to travel on!

 

The Christ Church Cathedral was lovely. One of the main tourist attractions and the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world.

 

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We went and ‘paid our respects’ to Maggie Thatcher and the war memorial, the Cathedral, strolled along the waterfront looking at birds and things.

 

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Everyone from town was lovely and friendly. Got lots of the classic “Hey Yah's" when I said hello to people. The gardens really were stunning and very “English Garden”.

 

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Day 22

Port Stanley, The Falklands

 

The museum was great. Well worth a visit.

 

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Historical, animal life and war stuff.

 

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We watched a short film on the war, filmed through the eyes of the kids that were there. Very sad. I didn’t realise so many kids were killed. They talked about hiding in their houses and peeking out the windows as the Argentinians stormed each house. Then living in the hills and digging trenches.

 

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Then a group of us met up at a tiny “English Pub” for drinks and lunch. The Poms all said it was “rubbish” but we loved it. The menu was Fish and Chips. I think they also did Chips and Fish…but that was it. I had a pint of some lovely English brew. We all had to drink bottled beer as the “ship hadn’t made it yet” so there was no draft. Lots of the expedition staff joined us. One person wanted a white wine and asked if this was a “Dry White”.

“Well, its wine in’t it!” was the response.

 

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When Jonathon, the expedition left, I gave the seven hoots and yelled “Abandon Ship!” We all had to rush down the hill and around the corner to get the 3.30 bus back to the ship.

 

Much fun was had in Port Stanley.

 

Sail away out through The Narrows was lovely. Past Gypsy Cove but those dammed dolphins were not there to see us off.

 

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And AGAIN!!!! Quick, time for a 20 minute sleep before the 6pm recap meeting.

 

“Crackle, Crackle ……Whales at 11 o’clock. Sei Whales!”

Three of them and many more way out.

OK, I didn't really need a sleep. It is great fun! A mob of us rush out, all pulling on warm gear then start searching. “There,....... there,......eight o’clock”, “There, .....there, ......way out!”

Lots of laughing. Then we all laugh about who will go in first and be the one to miss out when another pops up.

 

I saw a new whale!

 

Twice more that evening we saw whales. Another Sei, then a Southern Right. It waved its tail at us, and rolled over and waved a fin!

 

Yep. Yet another great day!

 

Tomorrow was to be our final shore day. I believed that we would get a hurricane, and a cyclone and a Polar Vortex as punishment for the unbelievable weather we have had. A bit unfair that we hogged all the great weather…but I was not complaining

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Absolutely amazing review, experience, and pictures. I have been reading at my leisure laid up this week after foot surgery. This is just what I needed! I can't wait for the next installments. Thank you for taking the time to share this with us all.

Edited by reney313
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Hi all,

I'm back again. And doing another blog.

 

I have just returned from another amazing trip. I didn't make this a LIVE blog due to it being such a busy schedule and not enough time to keep up to date.

 

It was a huge trip. A real "Bucket List trip".

"Around the Horn" of South America on Rhapsody with a few 'side trips'.

The 'side trips' were two days to Iguazu Falls, a few days in Buenos Aires and 21 days to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands. Then Around the Horn. I saw such amazing stuff. Things that nearly made my head explode. You have no idea what it is like to stand on a beach with 400,000 King Penguins!!!! :eek:

 

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I know people want to hear about the Iguaza Falls trip (as it is a common side trip when cruising) ........... but do you want to hear about Antarctica as well? Let me know!

 

As normal my blog is about the trip rather than life on the ship. I am a boring cruiser - when it comes to reviews and blogs. I really travel for the ports. I go to the Concierge Lounge and explore ports. I don't go to heaps of shows or evening activities. But I will be able to answer some ship questions.

 

So ask away!

 

And my little caveat - This is being done from my notes that I did on the trip.... so there will be tense errors.....and because it is me - there will be (many) spelling mistakes and typos! Life to too exciting for proof reading :D

 

And there will be lots of photos....... I am so proud of some of the photos I took on this trip..so I just have to share!

 

I'll try to remember to keep my actual report in this blue old font - so it is easier to skip to the next part if you want to skip the chat.

 

Raina

Glad I found your report. This is on my list of places to go. I want to go when my son turns 16 but I have a while before that happens. Look forward to reading the review!!

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