Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.

[hatetotan]

AMAZING! Loving every moment of your trip. Thanks for sharing!

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 23

West Point Island, The Falklands

51°20,0´S

60°34,4´W

 

Our last day of landing adventures today on this amazing expedition.

We sailed through the night and arrived at West Point Island in the morning.

West Point has been owned by the same family since the Brits claimed The Falklands, and has been farmed by each generation.

 

 

Many years ago the owners realised the Black Browed Albatross rookery and the Rock Hopper Penguin rookery were worth a lot more money through eco tourism then sheep farming. They opened up their place to the small cruise ships as a place to visit.

The ship parked about one k off shore and in we went in the Zodiac to a very sheltered bay on the leeward side of the island.

 

 

There was their house and set up. Wind generator and all. Totally off the grid apart from one phone line - an expensive satellite phone.

 

 

A few years ago the owners retired and had no family interested in running the business. They found a couple who were sailing the world. No fixed address. Tick has been travelling in his yacht for the past 35 years and met Kiki 27 years ago in the Bahamas. They have travelled the world ever since.

Kiki and Tick have settled down for a few years and are running the place.

 

 

They are – in perfect conditions – a few days’ sail from Port Stanley. They see about 40 expedition ships during the season. In the six months winter they see the food barge every six to eight weeks. They have a bad phone line and have very slow dial up internet that costs a lot per minute. That’s it!

That’s isolated.

 

We landed, then headed off on our two and a half kl walk to the rookeries. (There was a land rover shuttle for the people who couldn’t do the walk).

After the first huge hill it was lovely. Through very bare grass land but lovely views and heaps of amazingly beautiful patches of moss and peat.

 

 

 

The whole island would have been originally covered in tussocks. But that is all long gone for grazing. The owners have been re generating the tussocks and over by the rookery it is going really well. So in many years time it will spread back.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 23

West Point Island, The Falklands

 

 

The tussocks were beautiful. They looked a lot like, and were around the size of ‘Red Hot Pokers’ but the grass was beautifully soft and strong. And it grew out of a buttress lump maybe 400mm square. The grass was around 1500mm high.

 

 

This guy is a Caracara. A large bird of prey but also a scavenger, member of the falcon family. Also known as Johnny Rook.

 

 

After leaving the grazing land we headed into the tussocks. This kind of bush walking was not for the faint hearted. The ground was very uneven and slippery. At least there was no snakes or spiders. If you stumbled it was only 500mm till you crashed into the next tussock. So I never actually fell down.

 

There was a lot of laughing, sliding and making Elephant hunting jokes.

 

 

The coast on the windward side was stunning. So different to the gentle slopes we came in on.

 

 

[davwen81]

Yes this was one of our favourite landing sites, glorious scenery and the albatross bests with fluffy chicks and the rock hopper penguins who were so inquisitive were adorable.

[PhillyTravelBug]

These are the most amazing photos. By far the best of any trip report I've read.

[Miamia65]

Thank you for sharing this Raina, it is amazing. What is your next adventure?

[JamesEM]

What kind of camera/s did you use for all your wonderful photos?

[AussieVisi2r]

Sorry I didn't do an update last night.

 

I was down at the coast to go to the ANZAC Day march with Dad.

 

For the non Aussie Kiwis out there ANZAC (Australian New Zealand Army Corps) memorial day. This is our huge day, the day Australia proved itself as a nation.

 

And I was very happy that dad allowed me to take him in a chair, rather than trying to do the walk in his walker.

 

 

Now to get him to let me take it on his next cruise!!!!!

[AussieVisi2r]

davwen81 Magic place.

 

JamesEM - A canon 7D, mainly with a 400.

 

Everyone, thanks for the lovely comments.

 

Now I shall continue.

 

Raina

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 23

West Point Island, The Falklands

 

One ‘path’, and I use that term incredibly loosely – it was more like a general direction, took us down to a group of Albatross nests with chicks so huge and cute. The nests are like cane baskets made of mud and were overflowing with great grey fluffy balls with flapping mouths waiting for food. They were almost the size of the adults – without the wings.

 

 

 

 

An adult would arrive, and they would all try to convince it that they were the true child who deserved to be fed. The adults looked quiet confused as they walked past all the others on their way to their chick. Could be something to do with the fact they were Black browed Albatross with their cute eyebrows.

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 23

West Point Island, The Falklands

 

The second rookery was another half kl on and was quiet hilarious. They said it was only for the fit people…but fitness was nothing to do with it. It was for the sure footed people (as there was absolutely no path) …but I went anyway. And it was so worth it. So much falling into holes and getting feet tangled in the very long tussock grass.

 

 

But it took us near a Rock Hopper Penguin rookery.. These are the “Punks” of the penguin world. They have a great hairdo with black spikes on top, yellow eyebrows and yellow tufts above each ear. Their bright red beaks and red eyes give them a look that is loaded with attitude.

 

 

 

 

So very cool. They live really high up the cliffs and go up and down by jumping two feet at a time. Again adding to the tough guy image. No messing around stumbling like other penguins!

 

 

And of course a cute chick still molting.

 

 

It was then back through the tussocks. Hard work but such fun. And with no real path it was just pushing through and slipping around. We thought we were so funny and so original with our Elephant Hunter and Gunga Din photos….but every one took a similar shot!

 

It was then the walk back – again lovely. Through the peat bogs, and across the most amazing soft green grass growing on top of spongy bogs. Many of the moss balls looked like the Troll things in the Frozen movie. I will admit I did grab a lift in the Land Rover back down the steep hill. I would probably still be shuffling my way down if not!

My walking pole was amazing.

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 23

West Point Island, The Falklands

 

 

Part of the visit is the famous afternoon tea, so down to the house for a huge spread of cakes and slices and cups of tea in a Jolly British house with lovely fine bone china. And a walk around the lovely gardens.

 

The place was stunning with great views everywhere you looked. A whale blowing off in the distance, their yacht mooring in the bay etc.

 

 

It was then a bit sad to hop into a zodiac for our last zodiac trip. This was our final excursion before setting sail to Buenos Aires.

 

 

 

When we got back it was a BBQ lunch up on deck. Lovely. Until the ship got going and the huge winds picked up. When our tablecloth started flapping so much our plates were jumping and glasses blowing over, we packed up. As in packed up our table and helped the guys bring stuff in.

 

 

Our zodiacs have now been deflated and rolled up – pilled up like black sausage rolls. The motors are all strapped onto a bar and petrol cans and safety gear stowed. This was the last trip of the season and after dropping us the ship will make its way up to the Arctic for that season.

 

By the time we got inside, the ship was listing ‘a lot’ to starboard and we had fun playing ‘try walking up the hill’.

 

I them went and had a shower. Which was not a clever idea when the ship was really leaning to one side. I looked down and saw the water rushing to one side of the shower. I tried scooping it into the drain with my foot but I’m afraid the flood got away from me and poured – not trickled – over the 5cm lip and into the bathroom. The bathroom was under water! Lucky there was another 5cm lip to the bedroom. Mind you later walked into the bathroom with bare feet and whoops – the carpet was wet!

 

Then I tried to have a rest……..but “Yep. You guessed it!”

“Commissions Dolphins at 10 o’clock!” Right outside my window! But when I saw how amazing they were I had to find clothes and run out. OMG! These guys are amazing. Really white with black heads and patches. Like a reverse Orca. And really round and sweet. Smaller then normal and so pretty!

Best Dolphin ever! They played around the ship for ages.

 

 

And came back later for a quick visit.

 

After dark we saw heaps of Squid Boats out on the horizon. Their giant lights shinning. I tried calling out to warn the squid that it was a trick and to stay away from the light…but not sure if they heard.

 

Another fantastic day. Falklands were surprisingly amazing!

 

NOW FOR 4 SEA DAYS

[AussieVisi2r]

At Sea – Atlantic Ocean

Day 24,25, 26, 27 of the trip

 

Lovely sea days today. Relaxing, lectures and socialising.

 

Music trivia night. The entertainer played the song and we had to give all sorts of answers – name, who wrote it, what country were they from etc. Some very hard ones…….Who knew Roll out the Barrel had a real name?

We lost by one point. Yay for us! But we did win the crowd vote when I ran outside and started running in slow motion past the windows for Chariots of Fire!

 

Much hilarity, yelling and cheering. We have converted a few of our US friend to the Aussie way of cheering and heckling! Good job us!

 

I had to take groups out and show them the southern stars. Of course the Southern Cross is always a big hit. And seeing Orion stand on his head! They were not aware of that. The Milky Way was bright as! So clear and thick. Pretty special.

 

We had lots of lectures - formation of the earth, Global Warming, the Southern Ocean (Did you know that the deepest part is 8264 m in the South Sandwich Trench – almost the depth of the Mariana’s trench?), the Southern Ocean and of course future cruises............Before I came on this trip I know that I was going to do an Arctic trip at some stage. I knew I was going to do a Greenland Iceland trip. Now I am so confused as to which trip to do? They all look brilliant. But Svalbard is the one with all the Polar Bears and Walruses! Oh boy. So many options!

 

We saw more whales – Fin Whales. And lots and lots of Albatross, and more dolphins today. Short Beaked Common Dolphins. A group swam by them one chased us and swam beside us for a minute. It then turned and swam right under the ship. Then it came back around and swam with us. Lovely.

 

We had a Polar Trivia quiz. That was fun. The McMurdock Base (USA) supplies 16,000 condoms a year for staff use!

 

Our mammal count has been phenomenal.

Whales – Humpback, Minke, Orca, Fin, Southern Right, Sien and Blue. Seven

Dolphins – Hourglass, Peals, Commerson, Short Beaked Common. Great effort.

Seals - South American Fur Seals, Crab Eater Seals, Weddel Seals, Elephant Seals and Leopard. All of them!

Penguins - Magellan, Gentoo, Chinstraps, Kings, Adele, Rock Hoppers and Macaroni.

AND I saw every one of them!

 

Dinner was outside on the deck on the second last night. Lovely. But also very sad. We wore tee shirt. No jackets, no scarf, no hat! The weather is warm! Tomorrow will be too warm and the next day I will be sweating and bleating about the stinking heat. Amazing food. We even had a whole pig!

 

 

And finally a stunning sunset.

 

 

We had a final meeting where they presented certificates to the kayakers. Then announced the winner of the photo competition.

 

They said it was the best collection of photos that had ever seen. And there were some really serious photographers on board. A few were professionals who ran web sites, designers etc.

 

And the photo voted as the best by “a huge margin” was my photo!

Pretty exciting! The on board photographer said it was one of the better Antarctic photos that he had seen! YAY.

 

I'll just put it here again....'cause I can!

 

 

We did lots of chatting in the afternoon – and had a few drinks.

 

We did a group photos and a lowering for my flag. Then I got all the Expedition Staff and the other important people - like our waiters and bar staff and the Captain to sign the flag.

 

 

We then had the Captains cocktail party with a few speeches. The staff all said that we were a fantastic group, so much fun, so friendly, and that some of us really got the crowd going. And we were!

 

 

Dinner and bed.

 

So that’s it! My Antarctic cruise is over. There really are not enough words to describe it.

How to I describe it?

 

I really don’t know but Chris the Irish Pom said it best when she said “Tell them to sell a kidney if that's what they need to do to come here!”

 

If a trip to Antarctica was ever on your mind - I guess you know what I will say to you. It is so worth it. And do your research and compare prices.

As you can tell I cannot recommend Poseidon Expeditions highly enough. Everything was amazing. We were blessed with super weather, our mammal count was amazing, the group was fantastic.

When I first started looking I looked at the big names but managed to get my trip for half their prices. And that's a huge difference. And I cannot imaging how other trips could be that much better.

 

ANTARCTIC EXPEDITIONS ARE THE BOMB!

 

Now ...the Antarctic part is over...BUT WAIT..There's more. Now onto the Rhapsody of the Seas "Around the Horn".

[pretty princess]

What an awesome adventure. Thank you for sharing. Your photos are amazing!!

[cruzin Phillis]

Sorry this is the longest blog...and slowest, but we are getting there!

 

Raina

Slow??? I am going back and enjoying those moments. This is a fantastic review. I look forward to the day when I can see this part of the world! Your pictures and commentary are spectacular. I am so happy I found your review!!!

[t60]

Wowee, such a fabulous account of your experiences, and such great photos as well. Wonderful memories to last a lifetime...thank you

 

Sandy in Spain

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 28 Buenos Aires

 

Disembarkation was very civilised and really well done.

 

Bags didn't have to be out until out by 6.00 am!

We then collected passports, and a thumb drive with photos, contact lists etc.

 

Breakfast and good byes and of course a quick trip up to the 'Owners Suite' for a look. Pretty impressive. It had a big deck above the bridge, and was similar (a bit smaller and no grand piano to a Royal Suite). Definitely not worth the money (in my thinking) as deck access was so good everywhere and more so then on a normal cruise you are not in your room very much.

 

 

Buenos Aires is a working port so onto shuttle buses to the front for luggage collection. Immigration must have been done on the ship as there was nothing. Then we got onto buses (supplied by Poseidon for free) by 9.30 and were taken to various places – International airport, domestic airport and a few hotel locations.

 

I dropped my gear and went to La Recolenta Cemetery. This was built by the Monks in the early 1800’s. It was on the outskirts of town – but is now a tourist hot spot in the middle of town. It contains the graves of people like Eva Peron, many Presidents, Nobel prize winners and a grand daughter of Napoleon.

 

 

It is nothing like I expected. Not like any cemetery I have ever seen. Inside the magnificent, huge red brick wall (which was worth visiting on it's own) – was a crowded built up area. It’s 14 acres and has 4691 vaults.

 

I was expecting a fancy cemetery like you see in the movies. Green grass with lovely headstones and a few fancy crypts.

Note about my research - I like to research what is in an area, how to get there, etc. But I don't like to know too much about the place. I want to be amazed when I get there not go "Oh yer, I saw that on the internet". I don't mind seeing a few photos before hand like on blogs etc but don't spend hours pouring over facts and photos.

 

So my first view out a hotel window was gobsmacking!

 

 

All like super fancy sheds with elaborate stone work and statues.

 

 

 

But also very creepy. You could peek into them…and there were coffins just inside the dusty and cracked glass doors. And staircase leading down to the other levels full of dead relatives. Some of them had ten or more coffins on shelves. Others were a bit like little glass houses with a plinth with a coffin on in. Then a red velvet chair to sit on by the coffin….in the Argentinian heat………with a dead relative. I don’t think body bags were that good at keeping the smell in.

 

 

And so many tiny coffins.

 

 

Some of the family must have died out as the vaults are in really bad shape with pieces crumbling, doors falling off and glass breaking. These plots are resold and a fancy new crypt is built.

[AussieVisi2r]

Some are well looked after and heroes and icons such as Evita have fresh flowers and gifts.

 

Took a bit of searching but I eventually found the crypt of Eva Peron.

Also known as Evita.

 

 

 

 

 

After a walk around I headed back to my hotel to start the process of sorting and publishing photos. What most of the ship people were doing. Do you know how scary it is, having all copies of your photo on you. I had never been in this position before - I normally save them to places like facebook every night. Then if I loose my computer and hard drive and camera (!) I would still have a copy. It was scary. I was very happy when I had posted them and 'backed them up'.

 

We went out with some people from the ship and ate sensational steak and ribs. The poor restaurant man nearly had a heart attack when I wanted white wine not Malbec. He was horrified.

 

The walk was as good as the meal. The streets are so busy at night. All the shops are open. I was in the theatre district so lots of Tango houses, film houses, book shops and shows. The streets are full of statues. Life sized people doing things. Very cool. I went up to touch one…then panicked that it was a busker with great makeup at the last minute.

 

 

Day 1 Buenos Aires - Great.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 28

Buenos Aires

 

A leisurely start then a trip on the City Tour hop on hop off bus. Well not that leisurely. I was going to catch the hop on bus around to Recolleto BUT, in true Raina form…..the four blocks that way turned into 4 blocks that way…..then three blocks that way…..then two that way…then a taxi in the opposite direction. But I did get there after my 2k walk and $10 taxi ride.

 

 

Buenos Aires is a lovely city. There are 12 million people but the streets are not stupid. Traffic flows really well.

 

 

 

Most of these people live in high rise flats. I haven’t seen a house yet. And most of them have dogs. So there are dog walkers everywhere. Most with four or five dogs…but I did see one with 12 or more small dogs. Mostly Jack Russell’s and Maltese things. What a brave person holding that many Jacks. They probably have a brawl every to blocks. And the vast majority have been pure breeds. Weimaraners, Collie, English Pointers, Chinese Crested.

 

 

And parks. So many parks. With many playgrounds for the kids form the flats. Dog parks. Just spaces filled with gardens. It is great. This really is the city of parks. And trees. The city of trees. Every street is lined with huge shade trees. Absolutely beautiful.

 

 

 

[Kmix78]

I love every single entry in your report. Remarkable trip!

 

 

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[Sherman793]

What an amazing adventure! It seems that you have been on many, how brave you are to go trekking around the world by yourself! I am in awe!! This is not a trip I think I could ever make because of the rough sea potential. But you made me wish that I could. I feel like I saw it all through my own eyes you did such a stupendous job with the pictures!! Thank you so very much for sharing this with all of us!!:D

[Cruzin-K]

What kind of camera/s did you use for all your wonderful photos?

I would like to know as well.

 

I'm already doing research for my Antarctica trip in 2031 (post retirement trip to my 7th continent). I wish I could go sooner, especially after seeing all your wonderful photos. Which lenses did you take and which did you use the most often (assuming you took more than one)? I can see myself taking so much camera equipment that I won't have room to pack clothes. Lol.

 

It sounds like a smaller expedition ship is the way to go. I don't want to travel with people who get snooty over what stamps to buy. [emoji33]

 

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[Wildcatfish]

Wow!!! Thank you Raina for taking us along on this magnificent journey.

[AussieVisi2r]

I would like to know as well.

 

I'm already doing research for my Antarctica trip in 2031 (post retirement trip to my 7th continent). I wish I could go sooner, especially after seeing all your wonderful photos. Which lenses did you take and which did you use the most often (assuming you took more than one)? I can see myself taking so much camera equipment that I won't have room to pack clothes. Lol.

 

It sounds like a smaller expedition ship is the way to go. I don't want to travel with people who get snooty over what stamps to buy. [emoji33]

 

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

 

Hi there,

 

I mainly used a canon 7D DSLR with a 400 mm lens. I also used an Olympus Tough Waterproof. And some with an iphone 6S. I also took a 35 mm and a 100-28 mm lens but rarely used them. And yes luggage was a problem. I didn't include all my rambling about packing...but if I had have left cameras, lens, chargers, spare batteries (as they don't last long int he cold), computer, hard drives, charges, power plug thingos etc I would have been laughing. In fact - with out expedition clothes, toiletries etc..my 'normal' clothes would have fitted into a backpack.

 

An expedition ship is so much the way to go. I'm sure that if I had have gone on a 'Sail by' cruise like Celebrity I would have loved it, and come home with great memories and photos. Like the 'stamp buyers', but wow. I will never stop remembering this trip.

 

Raina

[AussieVisi2r]

What an amazing adventure! It seems that you have been on many, how brave you are to go trekking around the world by yourself! I am in awe!! This is not a trip I think I could ever make because of the rough sea potential. But you made me wish that I could. I feel like I saw it all through my own eyes you did such a stupendous job with the pictures!! Thank you so very much for sharing this with all of us!!:D

 

Thankyou!

 

Safety - and the ability to meet people - are the main reasons that I do lots of my travelling on cruise ships.

When not on a ship I am also pretty conservative/boring about going out at night and where I do go. I carry a tiny 'Pacsafe' handbag, never use the big camera in cities. So I make it safe.

But ships make it easy.

 

re the rough seas. Some companies now do fly in -fly out trips where you fly across the Drake, then join a ship. Good option!!!

 

Raina