Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.

[AussieVisi2r]

Valparaiso, Chile

Day 45 – GET OFF MY SHIP DAY!

 

 

Next to Valparaiso (rignt next to) is Vina del Mar – a super expensive ‘resort’ town. The urban sprawl has the two area touching each other – but the divide is dramatic. Poor to rich. Just like that.

Vina del Mar is very like any expensive beach town with high rise units and trendy shops down to the water. Most of the places are holiday houses for people from Santiago. High end shops and fancy cars were everywhere.

 

 

 

Very touristy.

 

 

The names comes from the vineyard that was originally there overlooking the sea. People would go for evening walks in the area.

 

We visited a museum where some of the stone heads from Rapanui (Easter Island) were visiting. Very cool to see them during the Easter weekend.

 

 

Edited May 6, 2016 by AussieVisi2r

[AussieVisi2r]

Valparaiso, Chile

Day 45

 

We then headed off to Santiago, only 100ks away – but we were travelling on Easter Sunday and Monday was a work day.

 

 

Our guide was brilliant - so being stationary on the highway was not a hardship as he had so many stories to tell.

 

We stopped at a small place for lunch. A family owned restaurant that only uses produce sourced fresh from within 100ks.

The fish had been speared that morning – a rock cod type fish. Local beef, local, figs, local wines, vegies from the organic garden out the back. It was a fairly spectacular meal. And of course wines. We also had a local drink - white wine with Pisco Sour in it. It was actually very nice.

 

The guide told us about roadside monuments that we see everywhere in Australia. The ones where someone has died in a car crash. Well here they have more meaning to them.

 

They came from the Latin American countries. When someone dies they need to do a penance to get into heaven. A monument is built at the site of their death and people go and pray there and ask for favours. If the favour is granted the dead person is completing their penance.

 

 

So rather then being just a cross marking the spot, many were very elaborate.

 

The traffic continued to be fun as our 100k trip stretched into the third hour.

 

 

We saw many sites and drove through the White Wine area. The Casablanca Valley - this is where much of the Royal whites come from.

 

 

My love of the South American was made happy by more spectacular views.

 

 

And some of the sites in the back of cars. Most of the road rules were similar to everywhere - they were just not followed. Heaps of people in the back of vans, mattresses with people sleeping in the back of cars (like we did in the 60's), strange loads tied on with varying levels of skill and care.

 

This area was also very much the 'bread basket' for Santiago with many crops especially Avocados, where the hills were covered in them.

 

 

It was a great trip.

[Photofinish4]

I don't think I'm interested in doing a cruise for visiting AUS and NZ. It would seem that doing it that way would not explore much of the interior. I'm thinking a land tour for down there, although I appreciate the suggestion! I guess with some lengthy excursions the circumnavigation might work for me, but I'm wondering if it could turn into something like people who decided to visit Moscow while the ship was in SPB - talk about a LONG day! Or the 13-hour excursion to Iguazu Falls from BA...think I'll pass on that too.

we did a land tour of Aus, NZ and Figi with a company called Grand Circle. It was great and we added a pre tour to the outback with same company. They also have a sister company called Overseas Adventure Travel ( oat ) WE USED THEM FOR Africa safari, Galapagos, Amazon and Machu Picchu. All wonderful trips

[Photofinish4]

Hi all,

I'm back again. And doing another blog.

 

I have just returned from another amazing trip. I didn't make this a LIVE blog due to it being such a busy schedule and not enough time to keep up to date.

 

It was a huge trip. A real "Bucket List trip".

"Around the Horn" of South America on Rhapsody with a few 'side trips'.

The 'side trips' were two days to Iguazu Falls, a few days in Buenos Aires and 21 days to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands. Then Around the Horn. I saw such amazing stuff. Things that nearly made my head explode. You have no idea what it is like to stand on a beach with 400,000 King Penguins!!!! :eek:

 

 

I know people want to hear about the Iguaza Falls trip (as it is a common side trip when cruising) ........... but do you want to hear about Antarctica as well? Let me know!

 

As normal my blog is about the trip rather than life on the ship. I am a boring cruiser - when it comes to reviews and blogs. I really travel for the ports. I go to the Concierge Lounge and explore ports. I don't go to heaps of shows or evening activities. But I will be able to answer some ship questions.

 

So ask away!

 

And my little caveat - This is being done from my notes that I did on the trip.... so there will be tense errors.....and because it is me - there will be (many) spelling mistakes and typos! Life to too exciting for proof reading :D

 

And there will be lots of photos....... I am so proud of some of the photos I took on this trip..so I just have to share!

 

I'll try to remember to keep my actual report in this blue old font - so it is easier to skip to the next part if you want to skip the chat.

 

Raina

Raina you are a wonderful story teller and make people think they are right there with you. Your photos are magnificent and you are one gutsy lady to do all this by yourself. As soon as my husband reads your blog he will want to do this. I bet all your students have great memories of you because you probably made it exciting to learn. Happy traveling

[JamesEM]

Thanks for all your reports and the great photos.

[Cabansail]

We visited a museum where some of the stone heads from Rapanui (Easter Island) were visiting. Very cool to see them during the Easter weekend.

 

 

 

Here was I thinking they had made a Malcolm Fraser memorial ;)

[AussieVisi2r]

Santiago, Chile

Day 45

 

Santiago has a population of 7 million and the smog to match. You come out of a mountain tunnel and there is Santiago – with the Andes Mountains on the other side. The first part you see are the Shanty towns. The economy here is very much a HAVE and a HAVE NOT. The divide is immense.

 

 

 

All within a very small area where the Shanty towns, home to hundreds of thousands, standard housing units, garbage tips and fancy parks.

So sad.

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Santiago, Chile

Day 45

 

We then drove around Santiago for a while.

A big modern city with all the usual things.

 

Lots of festivals from many religions and ethnic groups for the holiday.

 

 

Fish and Fruit markets.

 

 

Native palm tree. It is milked like a Maple tree for a sugar syrup.

 

 

 

The main river that runs through town is contained - due to the huge rainfalls. The Mapocho River flows from the Andes mountains onto the west and divides Santiago in two.

 

 

 

We didn't have time to stop and look at places but it was great to do a drive by.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Santiago, Chile

Day 45

 

Cerro San Cristóbal (San Cristóbal Hill) is a hill in the north of the city. It's 880 m above sea level, and about 300 m above the rest of Santiago. It was named by the Spanish conquistadors for St Christopher, in recognition of its use as a landmark. Its original indigenous name is Tupahue.

 

It's one of the 10 biggest city parks in the world. With stunning views. Over the city and across to the Andes Mountains.

 

 

 

We could see everything.

There was a building that looked large – but dwarfed by the Andes. The tallest building in South America and only a few floors smaller than the Empire State Building.

 

And there was “San-hatten” - the financial district!

 

 

Tens of thousands of people were up there enjoying the evening. And there thousands of dogs.

 

 

The park is huge and there was so much to do up there. Another historic Funicular and the best toilet block! Great way to build something.

 

 

As the sun was setting we went down into the city.

 

Stunning.

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Santiago, Chile

Day 45

 

A drive around the main parts of the city was lovely. Past most of the 'tourist hotspots' most of them old and grand.

 

 

 

 

It was a great quick look around - and a chance for the people staying for a few days to be shown the places they should return to.

 

We then went to the airport and dropped the people off who were catching the midnight flights.

 

And to hotels of the people staying over.

 

I was in that horrid position where my flight didn't go until noon the next day, so I needed to stay overnight. I hate that!

 

I was dropped off last and got there at about 8.30pm.

 

....And as the sun set on Santiago it also set on my amazing holiday. Now was the part I hated. Waiting and fussing around at airports.

 

This transfer tour was the best value - cannot believe what a great day we had and how much we saw for $85US plus lunch!

 

Now the trip home.

 

 

[hapster85]

Thanks for sharing your adventure! You're an entertaining storyteller and you've inspired me to add Antarctica to my list of "must see" places. Until stumbling upon your post, I had no idea that cruises to Antarctica were even possible! I've enjoyed reading it, and looked forward to each new entry, but like all good things, this too must end.

Edited May 8, 2016 by hapster85

[AussieVisi2r]

Homeward Bound

Day 46

 

My hotel was great. Hotel Manquehue Aeropuerto Santiago - near the airport and only $85US a night. i wasn't expecting much but it was great.

Transfer to the airport was only $5!

 

I got to the airport and checked in - and had to fuss around with luggage because (of course) one bag was too heavy!

 

I had a huge luggage allowance as I was flying Premium Economy (2 bags) and got an extra bag for being a member of the Qantas club...BUT...one bag was overweight. I was nowhere near my total limit (I only had two bags) - just the bags were heavy! I went to purchase a cheap bag but the best I could find was like a shoulder tote bag and was about $60US. NO!

 

Then I remembered I had my 'dry bag' that I carried the camera in, in the Zodiacs.

So after a bit of luggage diving I found it, decanted the correct amount and back I went. Don't you hate playing the luggage shuffle in the middle of an airport?

Yes I DID HAVE FAR TO MUCH LUGGAGE! But I had been away for 6 weeks and travelled from +40 degrees Celsius to -15 Celsius! That's my excuse and I am sticking to it.

 

I checked which side of the plane was the best to see the Andes and checked in!

 

I wandered around the airport for a while and saw the world biggest sandwiches. I had seen heaps of them all over South America so decided they are worthy of mention. At least .300 mm square. Compare them to the full size pie up above.

 

 

I spent a few hours in the Qantas Lounge (AA Admirals Club) then trotted off to the plane. And of course people were queueing! 14 1/2 hours to Sydney.

 

 

When I boarded, the Premium Economy was only about 1/3 full. The lady next to me...had just got off the Rhapsody! so we chatted about the trip. It's funny how two people can see a trip differently.

 

 

The Andes were stunning.

 

 

 

 

After take off we all got up and moved around to different seats - all getting a row each! And the best thing about a row to yourself......one TV to watch movies, the other to have the flight path etc showing. LOL

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Homeward Bound

Day 46

 

After a while I put my day pack on the floor, then gathered up a few blankets and pillows. I made a huge 'nest' and filled up the foot well area. I now had a brilliant seat with my legs up and supported. Perfect! How happy was I.

 

 

Due to weather and the curvature of the earth, we flew on a vector rather than on a straight line. In this part of the world it is the shortest way. Hard to understand but remember maps don't really look anything like the world looks.

 

 

we flew right down over Punta Arenas then down over the edge of Antarctica.

That was cool! A final glimpse.

 

So all in all it was a great flight. Super comfortable. Good movies and food. Pity I don't sleep on planes! And a flight that long is just a normal flight to us Aussies. (Europe is 25 hours away).

 

So I arrived in Sydney - 2 days later, as we skip a day with the crossing of the time line. I took off on the 28th and landed on the 30th.

And just to make it fun... my flight was due to land, 5 minutes too late to let me book the last flight to Canberra. Of course we arrived early and I would have had plenty of time but had to travel on the bus. Three and a half hours on a bus. Yay!

 

But I did get home!

 

It really was an unbelievable experience! A long time to be away but so amazing!

The wildlife, the scenery, the people and so many different culture! Fantastic.

 

The cost - Yes, it was the most expensive trip I will ever do, but looking at what I did - I got great value.

 

I really do "champagne trips on a beer budget!"

 

I do heaps of research and find the best value way to do everything. I do some luxury activities but mostly it is not. I stay in 3 star hotels. I don;t buy souvenirs. In my normal life I pay for everything on credit cards (then pay it off before interest fees) and get the Qantas points. So my international flights are done on points. I managed to cancel and rebook on Rhapsody three times and got a better price each time. First time I have ever managed that - but my room was half the price of my original booking.

 

Counting everything this trip cost me under $20,000AU. Yes, a hideously large amount of money but so worth it. It really was a "44 Gallon Drum Trip" - remember I don't have a bucket list, a bucket is too small! I'd love to see it again, but there are so many other places to see.

 

I know that I will be doing a northern trip as well now. Greenland and Iceland and now Svalbard! But it will have to wait for a few years!

 

 

Apologies to the people who have now had to add and Antarctic trip to their list.....but you will not be disappointed. And to those that wont get to go, I'm glad I could share with you.

 

 

So that's my trip.

Thanks for coming along for the post trip ride. I'm really glad so many of you have enjoyed it. And thanks for the absolutely beautiful things you have said to me in this blog. So Lovely!

 

I just looked at the clock and it's 2am - Whoops, so I will be back tomorrow to answer questions like packing lists! Ask away!

 

Raina

[bobmacliberty]

Absolutely fantastic review! Thanks so much for sharing. Antarctica was not even on my radar, but now....:confused:

[critterchick]

Raina, that was just brilliant, thank you so much for sharing. I really do hope we will meet up on the high seas or on dry land some day.

 

And I would love to see your Antarctica packing list (ifI didn't miss it earlier). :)

Edited May 8, 2016 by critterchick

[Wildcatfish]

Thank you so much for sharing your journey! It was amazing to read your entries each day. To see this in person must have been wonderful!

 

Thanks again!

[KiwiGal117]

That sound you hear... that is me giving you a standing ovation! Bravo! Fabulous review and trip. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share it with us.

[OnTheJourney]

Raina,

 

I might inquire as to your packing recommendations...keeping in mind that we're doing the Celebrity trip, and so nothing needed in the way of Zodiac expeditions, etc. Starting in BA, then 3 days cruising to Ushuaia, then Antarctica, Port Stanley, Puerto Madryn, Montevideo, and back to BA. Leaving Feb. 5 so obviously need to pack for cold weather for our departure from PA. I've not done any research yet on temps in the areas we are visiting, but certainly will closer to the trip. Any advice much appreciated. And..yes..to reiterate what many have said here..thanks for all the work that went into presenting your very well done blog. I really enjoyed it.

 

Thanks,

Keith

Edited May 8, 2016 by three4rd

[Coralc]

What a fabulous trip report Raina! Thank you for sharing your wonderful photos and always so interesting commentary and trip descriptions with us! :D

[cathyinperth]

Raina, thanks for sharing your trip with us. Best trip review ever!

[sjcruiser]

I should have been asleep hours ago, but I couldn't stop reading your posts or viewing the photos. Each page made me want to keep going to the next.. The photos of your trip were spectacular. I thought I was flipping through National Geographic or Outdoor Photographer. Thanks for writing about your trip, and posting the pictures. This is a must do addition to the bucket list.

[jimbri]

Thank you so very, very much. It was a wonderful review!!!!!

[AussieVisi2r]

Packing!!!! for those that are interested

 

You know how we always say - "Take out half of what you packed!"

I wish I had listened.

 

Remember I was packing for three trips - A few days in Iguazu Falls and Buenos Aires, An expedition trip and a cruise! Iguazu Falls with 40 degrees and 100% humidity to the Antarctic Peninsular, maybe minus 15 plus the wind chill factor.

 

I did the normal packaging for a 14 day cruise - but was going to wear the basically the same thing for all three formal nights on Rhapsody and the two nights on Sea Spirit.

 

There are so many packing lists out there on various blogs, trip adviser and company pages. Trust them. (I will get to my lists soon - but you know I never say anything the quick way!)

 

Point ONE# - “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear.” So you do need to be prepared. I cannot image what this trip would have been like with cheap non specialised clothing. With the correct clothing it was so comfortable at all times. Even when sitting in a Zodiac at water level, in the snow and brash ice for three hours.

 

One of the biggest expenses for this trip was the continual going to the shops to buy a few more things. It felt like I was going to the shops every few days to spend another $100 dollars. MUCH OF WHICH I DIDN'T NEED!

Advise - Beg and borrow what you can then trust the lists. Don't second guess everything.

YES - I took to much gear, but then again I had amazing weather.

 

I normally pack a few nights before a trip. I've done enough travel to know what I need, and I have much of it stashed in a certain cupboard - chargers, power plugs, etc. But not for this trip. This is so different. Packing preparation began months before. Mainly buying gear.

 

Remember my list is for an Expediotion ship so a lot more hard core and needed. For a Drive by - much of the gear would be the same - just less of it.

 

The Gear

A good Parka (mine was supplied by the ship-and I got to keep it so needed to remember that for the trip home.) And I mean a really good one. Wind and water PROOF not resistant.

Over pants (2 pairs) - Like ski pants but totally waterproof. With gussets around your calves that are also totally waterproof. For stepping out of the Zodiac and into the water and walking to shore. Also for travelling in the Zodiacs which got fairly wet in rough seas. These need to be really good quality. They are about $300-$500 a pair - I was loaned two pairs of these. The expedition staff inspected everyones pants before the first trip. If you didn't have suitable ones you either had to buy them on the ship (didn't see the price) or you couldn't go ashore. Ski pants are just not good enough.

I only wore one pair of these. I never got soaked, but I did get well splashed on many occasions.

After each trip ie lunch time, I would take off the over pants and put them on a hanger, hanging from the air conditioning duct. There were always dry before the second trip.

So one pair would have done.

For a drive by cruise you really need a good parka and ski pants. You want something that you can quickly pull on over what you are wearing and run out side to spend maybe a long time out on deck.

 

I ended up leaving a 'kit' spread out on the chair in my room. Over pants and parka - with a beanie and light gloves in the pocket. And the camera ready to go!

 

Muck boots for walking around in snow and penguin poo. These are supplied by the ship - but I have a smashed ankle as well as two metal knees. So I took a pair that were loaned to me (by the same wonderful person) - they were more ankle friendly. What are muck boots? Like a cross between Gum Boots/Wellies and Moon Boots (the big soft spongy boots you wear around at the snow). They are made of neoprene and are not to bad to wear at all.

 

Apart from the Muck Boots (they took up a lot of room) I only took two pairs of shoes. :eek: But I am not a shoe person. One pair of good runners/cross trainers - gortex ones really helped. I basically live in these shoes anyway so it was no hardship. You need something like this as the deck is almost always wet and maybe slippery. And I took small heels for formal nights.

 

The lists say - two pairs of thermal pants and two tops. I took 4 of each! Silly. Good thermal clothing wicks moisture away and is of a fabric that doesn't get smelly. They air and dry really quickly. Two pairs were enough.

 

A warm fleecy vest to go under the parks. I took a vest and two sleeved jackets (like hoodies). I wore the vest once and nearly roasted and wore one of the jackets around the ship.

 

2 pairs of thin thermal gloves. They were great. As I don't get cold easily I didn't wear my big gloves very often, so in the Zodiac the thin ones often got wet. One pair could dry under the air cond, the other pair in my pocket. I would take two pairs again. For a drive by I'd take one pair.

 

2 pairs of gortex ski gloves. 'Cause I thought I would have one pair drying. But I barely got the second pair wet and they dried well. I didn't take the second pair out of my bag.

 

Thermal neck muff and a head buff, (a buff is like a big tube of thermal fabric that can be worn in many different configurations). WHY? I hate things around my neck - cannot take it, so I really don't know why I took them. The parkas have really high collars that zip up and hide your face.

 

Two pairs of good sun glasses. I always take a second pair as I don't like sun!

 

Ski goggles - didn't take them out of the bag.

 

Collapsable walking stick - one of the best things I took. Brilliant. I would probably still be waddling across some rocks somewhere if I didn't.

 

SOCKS - the lists say two pairs of thin wicking socks, and two pairs of thick trekking socks. Got them and panicked two days before and ran out and bought two more pairs of each! Silly. I only wore one pair of each - and eventually only wore the thin inner ones not the big ones. Didn't need eight pairs of socks at about $30 a pair. But the DD is happy to have so many new socks in her ski cupboard!

 

Beanie, ear covers, peak hat. I didn't use the ear muffs (- like a head band that you wear over your ears). But wore the fleecy peak hat lots and the beanie quite a bit.

 

A light jacket for before I got my ship parka and for not so cold port days like Port Stanley.

 

I was told to take Vicks Vapour Rub - to put under your nose at the penguin rookeries. People said the smell was terrible. Maybe it's because I am a horse/animal person but the smell was not bad at all. Didn't need that at all.

 

My list of what I should have left at home. A bit embarrassing! So many extra things.

2 pairs of thermal pants

2 thermal shirts

1 fleecy vest

1 fleecy jacket

1 pair of overpants

1 pair of ski gloves

Thermal neck muff

Head buff

Ski goggles

Two pairs of thin wicking socks, and two pairs of thick trekking socks

Ear covers.

 

Plus clothing for three weeks on the expedition ship, two weeks on a cruise ship, and a week in stinking hot Buenos Aires and Iguazu Falls.

 

Then the cameras. The big SLR camera and a few lenses including the giant (400-100mm) one. A waterproof sack to carry them on the Zodiacs. The waterproof camera to use on Zodiac trips. And the small camera for around the ship. But wait..there's more. Batteries last only a fraction of the time in the cold...so each camera need three batteries. More shopping. And some huge memory cards - as I don't want to be in the minus degrees changing cards. And a back pack to carry it all in.

Next time I will not take the second small camera I used my phone a lot for that. I would not take the 100m lens.

 

I wouldn't take as many spare batteries.

 

Then all the personal supplies - normal clothing, beauty products, medications. There is a Doctor on board (included).

 

Sunscreen and lip gloss. The air is really dry on and off the ship so lots of moisturiser.

 

Electrical

Computer and charger.

2T hard drive for photo backup.

cameras and chargers

Ipod and chargers

Iphone and chargers

Power adapters.

card reader

camera lens cleaning kit

 

The other thing is once you get going that is it. So you need to check and recheck your gear - cables, memory cards etc. I did have two lucky breaks (literally), the power cord to my computer broke a week before. No biggie. Hand $100 over to the Apple shop and all is good. If that had have happened after I left Santiago airport I would have been 27 days without a power source! :eek:

 

And my card reader failed in Ushuaia. It cost me four times the price to replace it ...and it was the only one in town! Another disaster averted.

 

My other 'problem' was the early packing caused extra things to 'sneak in'. I had the piles and then the bags on the spare bed and added and crossed things off my lists. Then I did practice packing. Once I had worked out where things would fit for protection and weight, i put them in and then added a few things.

 

Problem was you would see something that really should be in - and add it.

BIG MISTAKE - I should have taken everything out and checked again the night before.

 

Why? Because about 10 shirts - favourites that I needed, (NOT) ended up coming. Extra bras for example. You plan a number of things then add an extra here and there. And suddenly there is a small pile of extras that came along for the ride.

 

And I had a great idea on this trip. Instead of getting two bottles of wine as my C&A gifts (which I never drink) I would take the tote bag and the beach towel. Good idea at the time - but ....

 

Add a few bottles of Pisco Sour and my luggage was getting pretty heavy.

 

And we all know how luggage grows on a trip.

 

But I made it.

 

Sorry that is a long explanation of what I took. Could have just done a list. LOL

 

Raina

 

[AussieVisi2r]

'Expedition' trip v 'Drive By'.

 

You have seen how amazing my expedition trip was, but I know they are not for everyone. Cost, time, activity level, hate of the cold.

Heaps of reasons why people don't want to do this.

 

A few friends have done the Celebrity 'drive by trip'. I saw their photos before I went and they had a fantastic time. They saw amazing things and many animals.

 

They went to many of the same places that I walked on around the Antarctic Peninsular. Schollart Channel, Paradise Bay, Gerlarch Straight and Elephant Island are on the Celebrity program. This is basically the same path I took - I just went into all the little bays and walked on them.

And after going 'Around the Horn' on Rhapsody and seeing what a great view I got of the glaciers etc, I can imagine how good a 'drive by' would be.

So what I am saying is don't think I am speaking down when I saw a 'drive by' cruise.

Nothing will ever come close to an Expedition ship, but it that's not your thing, or you cannot do it, it would be a great way to see this amazing environment.

 

And I really do think everyone should see it.

 

And apologies (NOT) to the people that have joined me on this trip and now have it on their list.

And if you are going have a look at Poseidon Expedition - Sea Spirit. cannot prise it enough, especially the value for money factor.

 

[DkswartzFamily]

Sounds like such an amazing trip!