Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.

[Nunagoras]

This is one the best travel reviews I have ever read, if not the best one available now!... Congratulations!... :)

[Nunagoras]

...And I forgot to say... Your photos are nearly National Geographic quality ones!!!... :) Congratulations!!!... :)

[AussieVisi2r]

Thank you all again.

 

So glad you are enjoying it!

 

Raina

[AussieVisi2r]

Antarctica

Day 13

At Sea

62°57,7´S

58°07,8´W

 

 

Our planned shore landings today had to be cancelled due to rough seas and strong winds. Weather was pretty bad everywhere so we headed off to the next spot. Then that was cancelled so we have headed off towards the Shetland Islands again.

Then that was cancelled. We are now onto ‘Plan Q’.

 

We had some great lectures on Ice and on Penguins. And saw heaps of great Tabular Icebergs.

 

 

 

 

But more importantly we saw Fin Whales. The second largest of the whales. Very huge. Only a few meters shorter then the Blue Whale. And so cool to see another species. Very exciting. And very cold out there watching them. Lucky I had a good coat - and thermals, and gloves, and hat......

 

 

 

[aussielozzie18]

Raina, your photos are breathtaking. Thank you for sharing your amazing trip with us.

[AussieVisi2r]

Antarctica

Bellingshausen/ Fildes Station (King George Island)

62°12,2´S

58°55,9´W

 

Jonathan made a few phone calls and did some swift dealing and we were granted permission to visit both the Chilean and the Russian bases at King George Island.

 

 

 

So off we went. When the staff went ashore to set things up - they took a few extras. For EVERY single landing we do the set up zodiac takes rescue equipment. Big barrels crammed with survival gear. As well as what you would expect - first aid etc, they take enough gear to sustain all 100 of us for an overnight! In case something happens and we cannot get back to the ship.

Normally you need to apply a week in advance for a visit, but the Chileans welcomed us. So in the advanced party they took cases of beer, and the afternoon tea that we were now not having as we were ashore. Pastries, cakes and fresh loaves of bread. Owww.

 

 

In our brief they told us that it would be nice if we bought from their shop - so we did. How cool to get hats and tee shirts from here.

 

They invited us in and took us on a tour of the base. We went into their lounge room, kitchen, storerooms, rec room, gym (where they do their mandatory 60 min running and 60 min weight training a day). Makes sense since they are a rescue squad! This base is the one that does the majority of rescues in the Antarctic.

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Antarctica

Bellingshausen/ Fildes Station (King George Island)

 

 

The fire station.

 

 

Like a cruise ship the very worst thing that can happen at a base is a fire. For that reason, all bases have a back up. Another seperate building with rescue equipment ie tents and food. When the base is supplied in October-ish, they are supplied with double the years food supply.

 

The Hospital. Wouldn't want to spend long there! But they do have planes so you would be flown out quickly.

 

 

 

The boat room is set up like a fire station with everything ready for a quick exit. Zodiacs on steroids – in a shed with large tracks down into the water for quick egress. And huge dry suit / safety suits. A one piece thermal and floatation suit with built in boots and gloves.

 

 

 

We then got to go for a wander around. We were allowed to walk around the Russian Base to go and see the southern most church in the world.

 

A gorgeous Russian Orthodox church.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Antarctica

Bellingshausen/ Fildes Station (King George Island)

 

The statue to Luis Pardo Villalón, the captain of the Chilean steam tug Yelcho which rescued the 22 stranded crewmen of Sir Ernest Shackleton's ship Endurance from Elephant Island, Antarctica, in August 1916. This is what started the Chileans proud history of Antarctic rescues.

 

 

There were also 6 ginormous old tanks for whale oil from when this place was a whaling station. Massive like you see at the refineries. So sad to see how many whales were killed.

 

 

We saw a document last night about Whaling. Apparently the Russians almost wiped whales out in modern times. After the treaty was made they were given a quota of around 2,500 kill a year. The KGB was involved in falsifying records and instructed the whalers to get every whale they could. A whistle blower went public and released accurate record that showed they killed over 250,000 some years.

So seeing the giant tanks was particularly sad.

 

We then did a zodiac cruise past the Chinese base (It’s know as the Great Wall as the Chinese build everything huge) and went to Ardley Island to see more penguins. Gentoos as the Adelie had already left. They believe it is because Climate Change is affecting the Antarctic Peninsular and Adelie's are a very southern species. Due to climate change they don't believe this species has very long left.

There was one Adelie there in the crowd.

 

This is were my phone kicked in. Vodafone bounced off the Chinese network at their base. How funny they have mobile phone network in Antarctica.

Got to make a call to my Dad who was so excited.

 

 

 

 

Back to the ship by 7pm. They work us hard! But so worth it.

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 14

 

Different weather again today. Freezing and savage.

The deck had lots of snow on it. And it as still falling. But not the lovely floating down flakes.

 

The wind was savage and the snow was in tiny blown balls that drove into you at 45 degrees. Visibility was down to under 100 metres.

 

I did make a snowman though!

 

Elephant Island (Point Wild)

61°05,7´S

54°52,2´W

 

The weather was fitting as today we visited Elephant Island, the place where Shackleton and his men survived for four months.

 

 

It is a lump of rock sticking way up out of the ocean. Absolutely savage with very little flat ground.

 

 

They lived there following a winter of being trapped in the pack ice and watching their ship get crushed and sink. They killed Mrs Chippy, the cat, and fed her to the dogs. They escaped with their gear and the two lifeboats that they dragged across the ice. Eventually they killed the sled dogs as well.And ate them.

They set sail and somehow navigated to Elephant Island.

These 22 men survived under their upturned life boats. For months. Lucky there were plenty of seals and penguins.

Shackelton then realized that they were too far from normal shipping lanes and would never be found. He sailed with four other men to South Georgia. Here they met the Chileans who came and rescued the others. All 22 men survived.

Shackelton was a fairly brilliant leader.

 

Elephant Island = horrid place. Amazing that they survived!

 

Another monument to Luis the rescuer.

 

 

We had workshops in the afternoon. I went to one on Crevasse Rescue. Because you never know when someone might fall into a crevasse. And you might have the 30 kg of equipment needed to save them. This session was run by Lois – one of the expedition team. A French/Ushuaia man who is an ice climbing leader. Very interesting but I have decided that I will NOT take up Ice climbing as a hobby.

 

There was yet another birthday on board tonight. A band comes in from the wait staff. And Johnny the musician/zodiac loader. There is a guy with a guitar, Johnny on the Sax, another on the tin pots and lots of singers. We have had at least one birthday every night.

 

Tonight we watcher the first half of the Shakelton movie. It’s three hours long so over two nights. It’s a great movie. Worth watching. They have popcorn! We get it in little bowls but the expedition staff all turn up with sick bags to get it in!

 

So now we are heading away from the Antarctic peninsular and are off to the Sub Antarctic islands of South Georgia. Home of 95% of the worlds Sea Lions during the summer as well as Albatross breeding grounds and King Penguin rookeries.

 

No whales today as the weather was too foul to see anything. Seas are quiet big now and the ship is rolling around. Lovely. Sadly the snow has stopped.

 

The food is amazing. The pastry chef needs a punch in the nose. His food is way to good. His 4 pm afternoon tea is excellent as are his deserts.

 

Life an an Antarctic Explorer is pretty good in the year 2016. Maybe not in the early 1900's.

 

ANTARCTICA IS BRILLIANT. Put it on your list. And if you possibly can - do an expedition ship. To walk around is amazing.

[dani negreanu]

Raina,

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!

 

You have a way with words & pictures. I'm riveted.:)

 

P.S. Amazed at the sheer # of Israelis on board... More than Aussies, Americans & Canadians. You should think we r a nation of millions....

[janabelle61]

Adding my thanks again, Raina! Your pictures are amazing and your story telling skills have moved me from - "Antartica might be interesting but ....." to "When can we go?!".

 

Can't wait for the next installment!

[AussieVisi2r]

Raina,

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you !!!

 

You have a way with words & pictures. I'm riveted.:)

 

P.S. Amazed at the sheer # of Israelis on board... More than Aussies, Americans & Canadians. You should think we r a nation of millions....

 

And they were such lovely people. A really great group.

 

R

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 15

 

Sailing through the Scotia Sea to South Georgia. Today was a Sea Day.

 

 

 

One of the talks today was on adaptation of species to cold

Many animals down here are a fat ball shape - as a sphere loses the least heat of all the shapes due to the smaller amount of surface area per kg.

 

Penguins stand on their heels and the tips of their toes to save heat.

They drink salt water and have a gland that pulls the salt out and excretes it through a drip line at the end of their beaks.

 

The red inside the mouth is red as it is a stimulus to feed.

Seals shiver when out of the water to warm up.

 

Adult Leopards only eat the skin and fat of their kills. Only the young ones eat the meat.

Penguins are not afraid of Leopard and Elephant seals on the shore.

Why do young animals looks so cute?? Short forehead, big eye and small nose. Cute is an adaptation as is sets off a protection instinct within a species. How cool is that!

 

 

We had to do a biosecurity thing again today. Washing boots, outer clothing, vacuuming pockets and Velcro etc then sign the form.

 

One poor man got confused…or as many said “stupid is as stupid does”. We have been washing out boots every time we go ashore by walking thorough the trough of chemicals. And on the way back through the scrub station then back through the chemical wash. So we should have some idea of how to do it.

During mandatory cleaning today, the afore mentioned man went to the outside wash station and filled his boots up with the wash and scrubbed them. NOT THE OUTSIDE, the inside.

 

 

He will have chilly feet in South Gerogia – or will be spending a lot of time with the hair dryer for the rest of today!

 

Went to a seminar on whale identification. It was good – but half way through there were whales so we all had to run out and look! Humpbacks.

 

 

Then we got to see a movie made by Jonathon – the French Expedition Leader – the boss. It was awesome. It was about a year he spent at the French research base south of Australia. It was fantastic. And so wonderful that we know him! Only sad thing was that it had an American voice over – Not Jonathon and his sexy sexy French “Good Morning, Good morning. Today’s the weather is……” voice. So sad.

 

 

Afternoon tea was a big Crepe station set up in “The Club” with Crepe Suzette made to order. Very flash.

After dinner we watched the other half of the Shackelton movie. Really great movie! Kenneth Branagh is Shakelton.

 

We are getting closer to South Georgia…I am doing another Pirate Drill - just like sailing around the Horn of Africa (for those that have done that). But this time not for Pirates. It’s for the waters near South Georgia and with it’s massive bird population. We need to keep our curtains drawn at night (and outside lights off) to avoid “Bird Strike” where the birds are drawn to lights and may get injured or lost. Much nicer then Pirates!

 

So that was today. Busy…but at sea. Barely had time to squeeze in a nap!

[JamesEM]

Following along, great photos.

[AussieVisi2r]

And today (15th April) is the 100 year anniversary of Ernest Shackleton and his crew arriving at Elephant Island.

 

 

What an amazing feat that was.

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 17 South Georgia

 

NOW WE ARE GETTING TO THE GOOD BIT!

 

5.30 AM wake up call. That was fun. Oh joy…the team decided that the sea was safe for us to go for a zodiac cruise around Coopers Bay.

 

This was excellent as Cooper Bay is a place where four species of penguins all use as a rookery. Gentoo (of course), Chin strap, Kings and YAY Macaroni.

 

Macaronis were names for the fine American gentlemen who travelled to France and dressed up with feathers in their hair. "Stuck a feather in his cap and called it macaroni". These are the guys with the bright yellow tufts of long golden feathers growing from their foreheads. And this was our only chance to see them. So cute with their big fat red beaks and golden hair do’s.

We were not disappointed with the Macaroni. They are awesome. And the breed I most wanted to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were also heaps of Elephant seals on the beach. And Glaciers. Don’t forget the glaciers everywhere. IF we had have been told we were going to look at glaciers, and black sand beaches we would have been thrilled and very pleased. These amazing things were just backdrops for the amazing animal life. Funny how you focus on different things.

 

 

A few hours of cruising around was fantastic

 

Edited April 18, 2016 by AussieVisi2r

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 17 South Georgia

Gold Harbour

54°37,5’S

35°56,2’W

 

At 9.30 we loaded up for our next excursion to Gold Harbour.

 

I don’t know what to say……. There are not enough words. It was………I'll let the photos talk.

 

We landed on a steep back beach. Well kind of landed. The zodiac went up to about 10 metres of the shore, spun around and backed in. Four staff were the ‘landing crew’, wearing waders and walked in to grab the boat. They dragged it up a bit then man handled us our one at a time.

 

 

We slide up the edge to the back of the boat – face the ocean, then spin our legs out over the edge. They take our arms and lower us in to the water. About knee deep – thus the fancy pants and boots we all wear. And there we go. It is so well done and so easy – even in a decent swell.

 

Then we walked 5 paces up the beach and had our briefing. “Stay in the flags, 2 meters from Penguins unless they come to you, 5 from the Seals, 15 metres from Elephants” – “Yeah, I’m going closer then that! NOT”. Then walked another 5 steps and stopped. We had seen it from the zodiac but it was not the same as standing on the beach with ……… King penguins. Their gold patches glowing in the sun. And they were everywhere. I mean everywhere. The beach was at least a 2km long and covered. We all took about 100 photos before moving 10 steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 17 South Georgia

Gold Harbour

54°37,5’S

35°56,2’W

 

And then realising ”Oh, that brown stuff is 15 Elephant seals - not rocks”.

 

 

Only small juveniles. A mere 3 to 4 meters long. And being juveniles they did not hate each other. They will not be trying for “Beach Master” roles for a few years. They were all in a huddle basking in the glorious day. They would occasionally lift their heads and grumble at the others. They yawned and pull the most adorable faces (in an elephant seal way).

 

 

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 17 South Georgia

Gold Harbour

54°37,5’S

35°56,2’W

 

I managed to drag myself away and spent ages watching the young Fur Seals (who remember are really Sea Lions as they have ears and pelvises) frolic. They bound along and have play fights. Occasionally they would rush through a group of Kings and cop a rousing. The Kings would really tell them off! Very funny. Up and down the beach, through the stream of glacial melt. Up and down into tussocks. Yodeling, growling and racing around. Then like all toddlers they would suddenly collapse with exhaustion. Flop, right where they were and bang, asleep. Cute yawns, scratching and cuddling up of the flippers.

 

 

 

But then bamm…. More kings. Remember there are many many thousands of them. You cannot see a piece of beach without Kings on it. Not 2 Kings, dozens – on every spot.

 

 

Behind the beach was a steep slop with beautiful native tussocks. And beside every tussock was a seal. SO many seals.

 

And then the occasional young Elephant making its way slowly long. Lumbering / galloping for 10 meters then resting.

 

 

 

[AussieVisi2r]

Day 17 South Georgia

Gold Harbour

54°37,5’S

35°56,2’W

 

The Elephants are molting. they cannot go into the water until their old coat dries up and falls off and the new coat grows through. So they just lie in the sun and smile until the job is done. No hunting, no eating. Just sleeping and scratching!

 

The Kings are ridiculously photogenic and funny / cute / amazing. They have no fear of us and come right up to you.

 

 

They walk around in pairs, often stopping to snog. I sure know where the term “Necking” comes from. Their long elegant necks twined around each other as a display of affection. A third may join in and then there is a lot of “bitch slapping” with wings flying and the thwack, thwack thwacking.

 

 

Other will stop and throw their heads up and sing. And they are so very busy. Places to go, people to meet. All of a sudden they will stop in a group of five or six and discuss some burning issue. Very important business. Maybe they are business people, in their best suits.

 

 

But some are not in their best suits – some of the young ones are behind in their molt – and are still covered in patches of the softest brown feathers. One in a fur coat. One had a beautiful ruff around it’s neck. Another a Mohawk! They look so out of place in this formal arena.

 

 

Often they walk in a true ‘penguin parade’ – five or six walking in a straight line. Again off on some important mission.

 

 

Maybe down to the water, where they walk in to about waist height then suck in their tummies as the cold water hits them. They look like people doing this. Then a wave hits them and down they bend and become the most agile, sleek creature ever. Off they shoot in search of food.

 

 

From the ship this morning I saw a few glaciers. One was a true hanging glacier. Coming down a stone valley way up high. “That must be impressive when it calves” says I. As we were walking along the beach there was a huge nose way up the other end of the beach. The very cooperative glacier calved. A huge avalanche of snow and ice poured down. It looked like a waterfall and went for many minutes. Only the humans reacted. None of the thousands of Penguins, the hundreds of Fur Seals or the dozens of elephant Seals.

 

The sun shone, the animals performed. It was amazing.

 

Then our three hours was up. We had been walking around for three hours. Time to go. The Zodiac trip was fun – getting back onto the ship was very exciting. A one meter swell made unloading fun. The Zodiac would go up high well above the height of the ‘mariner’ and water would rush onto the deck. Then the mariner would go up about a meter, well above the height of the zodiac and all the water would pour into the zodiac. Lucky we were so skilled at trusting the sailors and holding on as trained. The operation of loading and unloading is so well done. So safe and not as scary as it could have been. A great team!

 

WOW - an amazing time!

[thistledoo]

Oh my oh my!!! Simply stunning. Thank you so much for sharing.

[cjcruiser27]

What an AMAZING journey you have been on and thanks so much for taking us along! Your photos are just incredible!

[cinnamon]

This is astounding!

[OceansOfTravels]

In utter awe at this review. Thank you SO much for sharing!

[relaxatsea]

Wow! I was on the Rhapsody sailing with you, and we thought that was exotic, but this is beyond amazing! Thanks so much!