"Black Sea to Bratislava with Passion"

[I_r_a]

Hi All,

 

My Lady Wife and I shall set off for Bucharest tomorrow, from whence we shall board The Avalon Passion for a voyage from the Black Sea to Bratislava.

 

I hope to provide you with live daily reports: God willing and the creek don't rise.

 

Ira

Edited September 10, 2016 by I_r_a
wrong colors

[notamermaid]

Ira,

 

have a safe trip and a great cruise.

 

notamermaid

[Ontario Cruiser]

We are doing the same one on the illumination on October 5th so looking forward to your posts. Having trouble deciding what clothes to pack? OntarioCruiser

[jpalbny]

Eagerly anticipating this one! Many places that we have not visited, so it will be nice to hear about what's on this part of the Danube. Have a great trip!

[Cobbie48]

Hi All,

 

My Lady Wife and I shall set off for Bucharest tomorrow, from whence we shall board The Avalon Passion for a voyage from the Black Sea to Bratislava.

 

I hope to provide you with live daily reports: God willing and the creek don't rise.

 

Ira

 

Bon voyage! We sail Amsterdam to Basel in 5 weeks with Avalon.

[I_r_a]

Hi All,

 

Despite being one of the coolest people I know, I have to admit to some sense of excitement as I got up at 04:30 Sunday morning.

 

This left lots of time to twiddle my thumbs until the limo service came at 13:30. My Lady Wife, Roberta, also arose early (before noon even though she was wearing her "I would be a morning person if morning came after 12:00" Tee).

 

We did all of the last minute things, and then were off to ATL. Heavy traffic. Long lines at Security. Forty minute delay until we were finally airborne.

 

The cuisine on the Delta flight was exactly the kind of stuff that gives airline food its reputation.

 

After the usual 8+ hr flight in cattle class, we arrived at Schipol 25 min late. Add 10 min to get to the gate and we are now on land, with 10 min to go before our flight leaves.

 

Schipol is what every airport in the world ought to be. Just beyond the boarding ramp were 3 KLM agents to check us, direct us, and call ahead to tell them we were on our way. In addition, the distance between the arrival and departure gates was only about 200 meters, and half of that was on moving walkways.

 

Without hardly breaking a sweat we were onboard and ready to go.

 

ON the flight across Europe, we saw some very nice storm systems from the "hurricane chasers" point of view.

 

Landing in Bucharest was without incident except (as many of you have been thinking) our luggage did not arrive.

 

A very pleasant young lady promised our suitcase would be here tomorrow morning.

We shall see.

 

The Hotel Boutique Scala (http://www.hotelscalabucuresti.ro/en/ ) had arranged for a driver, who patiently waited an extra hour while we went through the process of reporting our lost luggage, brought us to the hotel and helped with bringing the luggage indoors.

 

On the way in I mentioned that my grandmother was from Romania. She was born in Bukovina. The driver said that Bukovina was in Ukraine. "Yes", I said, "It is now, but she was born in 1885, when it was part of Romania".

 

Charge for transport in a 200 series Benz was about $30.

 

The folks at the Scala are eager to please, very helpful and anticipate your needs.

We've been installed in the room "Opera" (The Premium room on the website).

 

We are very pleased.

 

To operate the Jacuzzi, fill the tub with water up to the middle of the inlet. Get in. Turn on the jets. Add about a capful of shampoo. Add more if desired.

 

If you put the whole bottle in, the suds will overflow the tub.

 

Dinner tonite is at Lacrimi si Sfinti (http://www.lacrimisisfinti.com/ )

 

An interesting thing about Romania is that its language is very much like that of the countries of Western Europe, rather than the Slavic languages.

 

I shall have to do a bit of research.

 

More to come.

 

Ira

[caviargal]

That itinerary is high on my list and I look forward to reading about the ports and itinerary details.

 

Have a great trip!

[mimmy52]

This is a trip I would love to take. Can't wait to hear more.

[Hydrokitty]

Hi All,

 

My Lady Wife and I shall set off for Bucharest tomorrow, from whence we shall board The Avalon Passion for a voyage from the Black Sea to Bratislava.

 

I hope to provide you with live daily reports: God willing and the creek don't rise.

 

Ira

 

DH and I are interested in a Black Sea cruise so we'll be looking forward to your observations about the ports, excursions, everything. We have been to Bratislava and LOVED it!!! Wonderful river walk with side by side restaurants all the way to the end...and a charming Main Square just a quick shuttle ride or healthy walk away. The castle was ok....go for the view!

Edited September 12, 2016 by Hydrokitty

[I_r_a]

Hello again,

 

After a very refreshing tub and a rest, we set off for Lacrimi si Sfinti.

 

The desk clerk called to remind us that we had a reservation. "Yes, We would like a cab".

The desk clerk called to tell us the cab had arrived.

The desk clerk gave the cab directions.

The cab took us to the wrong place.

 

We asked for directions from one of the restos.

That moved us 3 blocks.

We asked for directions from one of the restos.

That moved us 3 blocks.

We asked for directions from a pair of passing security guards.

That moved us 3 blocks.

We asked for directions from a bar tender.

That got us there.

 

A. The cab was cheap.

B. We had a not unpleasant walk through the Old Town at night.

C. GPS. Don't leave your hotel without it.

 

No. The resto did not have our reservation.

Yes, they could seat us.

No, not outside.

In we went.

 

Unfortunately, there were two large groups celebrating something or other and the noise level was a bit high. (Loud), and the three piece "Gypsy" band helped to raise the noise level a bit higher. (Fortunately, they did 10 min on and 20 off)

 

Anyway, it is a pleasant room. The service was good. The food was very good (or maybe it was childhood taste memories), and the wine (Romanian) and beer (Ursus) were quite nice.

 

We started with the Balkan Appetizer - a dish of coarsely chopped fire-roasted eggplant, peppers and spices in olive oil. This went very well with the large slabs of white bread.

 

Roberta had the Porcini mushroom soup - very good, and the trout - also very good.

 

I had the stuffed cabbage with mamaliga (polenta) and sour cream on the side. This seemed to be very popular that night.

 

It was as good as I remembered from my grandmother's cooking.

 

I also had the side order of mixed pickled tomatoes, cucumbers and red peppers - just like from back in Brooklyn in the 40's.

 

With tip and drinks, the bill came to about $45.

 

A short stroll to a main street brought us to a taxi stand with 3 cabs. They were all "off duty".

 

After 10 min of trying to flag down a cab on the street, one of the drivers offered to take us back to the hotel for 50 lei. Highway robbery.

 

After another 5 min. a driver offered to take us for 10 lei - twice the regular price.

 

Since 10 lei is only $2.50, I accepted his offer. After a very pleasant ride, and interesting conversation about Ray Charles and Georgia, we were back at the Scala.

 

And so to bed.

 

Ira

[Host Jazzbeau]

Do you think the first place the cabby took you was actually where the hotel had made the reservation?

[Mark_T]

Do you think the first place the cabby took you was actually where the hotel had made the reservation?

 

That's what I was thinking ...

[I_r_a]

Hi J and M,

 

Desk clerk told us on arrival that they had made reservations at Lacrimi si Sfinti. Night clerk called to tell us that we had reservations at LsS and wrote down the address for the driver. I saw her google it.

 

It was "just one of those things".

 

Jet Lag caught up with Her Grace (my LW)and she did not arise until late. Still, they brought her a pot of hot water and a plate of fruit with a croissant to her room.

 

I breakfasted like a Prince (Serene not Royal) with choices from a wide array of breads, fruits, pastries, savories, sweets, meats and sausages, cheeses, eggs and a couple of things new to me, along with coffee, tea, 4 types of juices and water.

 

That afternoon we taxied up to the George Enescu Museum at the Contacuzino Palace. Entrance fee - 3 lei (http://www.georgeenescu.ro/en/ )

 

Our reason for visiting was the building. which is quite impressive but needs quite a bit of work, although there are some interesting artifacts from Enescu's life and work.

 

We then walked back to the hotel (in the sunshine), where we took a siesta before going out to Caru cu Bere (https://www.carucubere.ro/en/ ).

 

They asked for our confirmation number, which I didn't have, but they found me in the book. Good.

 

This is the sort of place you will really like if you like this sort of place.

 

On the one hand it is a tourist trap. High prices (for Bucharest), mobs of tourists, noisy "native music and dancing", almost traditional dishes.

 

OTOH, the food is good and they brew their own beer, and it wasn't outrrageously noisy.

 

I can highly recommend the lamb pastrami. It was real lamb, not mutton. The mamaliga was good and the mixed pickles were quite nice.

 

Roberta had the stuffed grape leaves with pan fried polenta (I think that that is gnocchi Romana), because she doesn't care for mamaliga.

 

The desserts were extravagant. Full of whipped cream and other sugary delights.

 

After supper and several shows (we seem to have timed it right- 7:30 PM) we went next door to Gloria Jean's Coffee, where we each had a latte and shared a very nice multi-layered nut cake that was dense, but tasted light.

 

(I didn't write the name down and I can't remember it. (Bad Ira)

 

There were more than a few cabs, or should I say vultures, at the base of the street, on the main road waiting for the unwary.

 

The first one produced an official-looking card that stated the night rate: 35 lei + 3.5 lei/km.

 

The next one offered a flat rate of 50 lei, and the next 100 lei.

 

It took a while, but I finally found someone "willing to drive us for a reasonable fare", who took the long way 'round and ran the meter up to 15 lei. I gave him 20.

 

The point, here, was not the money (35 lei is <$10 ) but being taken for a chump.

 

Bucharest does not have a night rate, and cabs must advertise the per km cost on the door. These guys had stick on labels covering the true rate.

 

Anyway - lovely evening.

And so to bed.

 

Ira

 

(PS The delayed suitcase arrived Tuesday AM )

[Hydrokitty]

Hi J and M,

 

Desk clerk told us on arrival that they had made reservations at Lacrimi si Sfinti. Night clerk called to tell us that we had reservations at LsS and wrote down the address for the driver. I saw her google it.

 

It was "just one of those things".

 

Jet Lag caught up with Her Grace (my LW)and she did not arise until late. Still, they brought her a pot of hot water and a plate of fruit with a croissant to her room.

 

I breakfasted like a Prince (Serene not Royal) with choices from a wide array of breads, fruits, pastries, savories, sweets, meats and sausages, cheeses, eggs and a couple of things new to me, along with coffee, tea, 4 types of juices and water.

 

That afternoon we taxied up to the George Enescu Museum at the Contacuzino Palace. Entrance fee - 3 lei (http://www.georgeenescu.ro/en/ )

 

Our reason for visiting was the building. which is quite impressive but needs quite a bit of work, although there are some interesting artifacts from Enescu's life and work.

 

We then walked back to the hotel (in the sunshine), where we took a siesta before going out to Caru cu Bere (https://www.carucubere.ro/en/ ).

 

They asked for our confirmation number, which I didn't have, but they found me in the book. Good.

 

This is the sort of place you will really like if you like this sort of place.

 

On the one hand it is a tourist trap. High prices (for Bucharest), mobs of tourists, noisy "native music and dancing", almost traditional dishes.

 

OTOH, the food is good and they brew their own beer, and it wasn't outrrageously noisy.

 

I can highly recommend the lamb pastrami. It was real lamb, not mutton. The mamaliga was good and the mixed pickles were quite nice.

 

Roberta had the stuffed grape leaves with pan fried polenta (I think that that is gnocchi Romana), because she doesn't care for mamaliga.

 

The desserts were extravagant. Full of whipped cream and other sugary delights.

 

After supper and several shows (we seem to have timed it right- 7:30 PM) we went next door to Gloria Jean's Coffee, where we each had a latte and shared a very nice multi-layered nut cake that was dense, but tasted light.

 

(I didn't write the name down and I can't remember it. (Bad Ira)

 

There were more than a few cabs, or should I say vultures, at the base of the street, on the main road waiting for the unwary.

 

The first one produced an official-looking card that stated the night rate: 35 lei + 3.5 lei/km.

 

The next one offered a flat rate of 50 lei, and the next 100 lei.

 

It took a while, but I finally found someone "willing to drive us for a reasonable fare", who took the long way 'round and ran the meter up to 15 lei. I gave him 20.

 

The point, here, was not the money (35 lei is <$10 ) but being taken for a chump.

 

Bucharest does not have a night rate, and cabs must advertise the per km cost on the door. These guys had stick on labels covering the true rate.

 

Anyway - lovely evening.

And so to bed.

 

Ira

 

(PS The delayed suitcase arrived Tuesday AM )

 

Ira, after a very long day, I can't tell you how much I'm enjoying your "diary"...Bucharest is indeed an interesting city, but the food is wonderful...I agree. Can't wait till tomorrow!! :D

[copperski]

Ira, I'm not sure how long you will be in Bucharest, but if you need to take a taxi again, you may want to consider Uber. We used Uber and it was very reliable and the prices were ridiculously cheap. A 3 mile,20 minute trip cost us $3.50

[Ontario Cruiser]

We are on the Illumination Oct 5th and we're just assigned Sapphire deck cabin 226 which appears to beside staircase which only goes down to Indigo. Are these stairs for staff?

Hope the cabin isn't noisy. OntarioCruiser

[I_r_a]

Hi CS,

 

Uber is a good idea, especially at night when the cabbies try to rip off the tourists.

 

Ira

[I_r_a]

Hello again,

 

It is 07:00 on Friday, Sept 16, 2016. I am in the lounge having a pre-breakfast breakfast, after pacing the Sky deck since 05:30 waiting for the sun to come up. (I like to take sunup pix)

 

Old Sol lifted his sleepy head just as we arrived in Sfantu Georghe, so my long wait to get a sunrise shot was ruined by the presence of a relatively drab little town.

 

Wednesday we visited the Choral Synagogue in the morning. Worthwhile visit for those interested in such things. The afternoon was spent at the Village Museum, a largish collection of village homes, churches, farm buildings, grist mills, wind mills, General Mills, etc from the late 18th – early 20th C.

Very pleasant docents willing to answer questions and sell various craft items.

 

Dinner was in the courtyard, by candlelight, at the Scala Hotel. Very generous portions of crudités, eggplant salad, pork fillet w/potatoes and pickled vegetables for me, Grilled salmon with grilled eggplant, squash and mushrooms for my Lady Wife.

………..

 

Thursday AM was filled with our last princely bkfst, paying up and checking out. We had a very, very nice stay at the Scala.

 

At 11:30 a cab took us to the Athenee Hilton, where we arrived a few minutes before the required hour of 12:00 Noon. The buses arrived for pickup at 14:00. I was pretty certain that Noon was too early, but I am also certain that had we arrived at 1:30, everyone would be gone.

 

Off we went, through the city and onto the A2. The road gets off to a bumpy start, but improves as you get further away from Bucharest. The ride was through fields of recently harvested corn, wheat and sunflowers. Excellent black loam.

 

A guide spent most of the ride telling us about Romania, but so many people fell asleep (not her fault) that she eventually quit.

 

About 4:00 PM we arrived in Festesti. There is nothing here but a small boat landing used by Avalon. It wasn’t long before were on our way – cruising down the river.

 

A welcome reception, and a verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry long introduction took up a goodly portion of the time before dinner, which was very good.

 

And so to bed.

……………………

Friday was up bright and early so as to be ready for our walk through the town of Sfanty Gheorgi (St George). We were divided into two groups: Boat ride and town tour and town tour and boat ride.

I don’t wish to spoil your delight at seeing St G for the first time so I shall just note, as Baedecker was apt to say, “There is little here to detain the casual visitor”.

 

In groups of 10, we were helped into small boats and taken into the marshland of the Danube Delta. It is more interesting than it looks from the outside. The reeds (used for thatching rooves, etc ) grow to be about 10 ft high. There is quite a variety of plant life, depending upon the water depth.

 

It took a while before we came upon a large flock of swans. Then there were herons and various other birds. Lastly we were brought to a flock of Dalmatian Pelicans. These white birds are either larger or smaller than common pelicans (I can’t remember which), because they don’t migrate. Then it was back to the boat for a pleasant light lunch (several salads, some pasta and a chicken dish) and a nap.

 

Dinner was a Gala Affair (very few dressed up beyond sport jackets for the men) followed by dancing in the lounge. The keyboardist does a good job of imitating various recording stars.

 

And so to bed.

 

Moree to come.

 

Ira

[I_r_a]

Hello,

 

Tuesday, 09/20/2016

 

It’s been a hectic several days, what with eating, drinking, sleeping, lazing about, doing nothing and the occasional shore excursion, I just haven’t had time to write.

 

If you remember, we had just finished our Gala Dinner when we heard the Cruise Director say, “tomorrow we shall visit Constanta”. Not a lively town, and it was hot. Visited the archaeological museum. It was very hot. Checked out some souvenir shops. Very poor quality.

 

We were taken to a winery for a very forgettable lunch and a pitch about their forgettable wines.

 

As Baedeker might say, “There is little here to delay the casual visitor”.

 

Sunday, we were bused to Veliko-Tarnovo, a quite pleasant town for those of us who weren’t interested in climbing up the hill to survey a very old, ruined fortress. Bulgaria produces roses for the manufacture of essences, etc. If you visit Veliko-Tarnovo, you will come out smelling like a rose.

(The Devil made me do it!)

 

After the hill climbers returned, we headed for Arbanassi (accent on the nassi ). Here we have an old town up in the hills that has developed into a tourist destination, but it is not garish and pushy.

 

We visited the 17th C home of a typical very wealthy merchant and a very old church (16th C). The house was of particular interest, to those who find these things interesting, because it had two indoor privies – one for men and one for women. You can tell which is which by the shape of the hole in the floor.

 

Lunch was at a very nice resort hotel (not a winery) where we tasted a couple of OK wines, had some very nice beer and a pleasant lunch overlooking the city.

 

Back to the boat in time for happy hour.

 

(Happy Hours are quite nice. Half price on everything from the bar. )

 

Monday was a cruising day, with a short stop at Cetate – an artist’s colony that Avalon uses as a coach stop along the road. Once again we were treated to local wines and a tour of the facilities.

 

I took one of the boat’s bicycles out for a ride – after signing a waiver promising not to call down curses from heaven should I hurt myself.

 

Soon it was Happy Hour, Port Talk and Dinner. Tonite’s dinner was a bit too creative for me, so I had the steak. XLnt.

Roberta chose the grilled tomato, which she said was very good, from the menu.

 

Unfortunately, during dinner we had a medical emergency. The Captain very skillfully brought the boat to the nearest landing and arranged for emergency medical aid to meet us. I’m afraid that nothing could be done, however.

 

This morning we are tied up at “Drobeta Turnu Severin”, which might be the name of place or a direction sign, somewhere between locks 1 and 2 near the Iron Gates.

 

More to come.

 

Ira

[I_r_a]

Hi OC,

 

>Illumination Sapphire deck cabin 226

 

Sorry. The Passion does not have that stairway.

 

Ira

[I_r_a]

A Few Pix,

[CTBob]

Hi Ira, love your writing style. Looking forward to more. Considering an Avalon cruise next year. Thanks, Bob

Edited September 20, 2016 by CTBob

[Hydrokitty]

Hello,

 

Tuesday, 09/20/2016

 

It’s been a hectic several days, what with eating, drinking, sleeping, lazing about, doing nothing and the occasional shore excursion, I just haven’t had time to write.

 

If you remember, we had just finished our Gala Dinner when we heard the Cruise Director say, “tomorrow we shall visit Constanta”. Not a lively town, and it was hot. Visited the archaeological museum. It was very hot. Checked out some souvenir shops. Very poor quality.

 

We were taken to a winery for a very forgettable lunch and a pitch about their forgettable wines.

 

As Baedeker might say, “There is little here to delay the casual visitor”.

 

Sunday, we were bused to Veliko-Tarnovo, a quite pleasant town for those of us who weren’t interested in climbing up the hill to survey a very old, ruined fortress. Bulgaria produces roses for the manufacture of essences, etc. If you visit Veliko-Tarnovo, you will come out smelling like a rose.

(The Devil made me do it!)

 

After the hill climbers returned, we headed for Arbanassi (accent on the nassi ). Here we have an old town up in the hills that has developed into a tourist destination, but it is not garish and pushy.

 

We visited the 17th C home of a typical very wealthy merchant and a very old church (16th C). The house was of particular interest, to those who find these things interesting, because it had two indoor privies – one for men and one for women. You can tell which is which by the shape of the hole in the floor.

 

Lunch was at a very nice resort hotel (not a winery) where we tasted a couple of OK wines, had some very nice beer and a pleasant lunch overlooking the city.

 

Back to the boat in time for happy hour.

 

(Happy Hours are quite nice. Half price on everything from the bar. )

 

Monday was a cruising day, with a short stop at Cetate – an artist’s colony that Avalon uses as a coach stop along the road. Once again we were treated to local wines and a tour of the facilities.

 

I took one of the boat’s bicycles out for a ride – after signing a waiver promising not to call down curses from heaven should I hurt myself.

 

Soon it was Happy Hour, Port Talk and Dinner. Tonite’s dinner was a bit too creative for me, so I had the steak. XLnt.

Roberta chose the grilled tomato, which she said was very good, from the menu.

 

Unfortunately, during dinner we had a medical emergency. The Captain very skillfully brought the boat to the nearest landing and arranged for emergency medical aid to meet us. I’m afraid that nothing could be done, however.

 

This morning we are tied up at “Drobeta Turnu Severin”, which might be the name of place or a direction sign, somewhere between locks 1 and 2 near the Iron Gates.

 

More to come.

 

Ira

 

Did you have a short choral concert in the church at Arbanassi? I loved the frescoes inside the church but wish I had been told it was about 1/2 mile uphill climb to get to it. It was very hot when we were there.

 

Make sure you're topside for the Iron Gates. Both monastery and carving are fantastic and make wonderful photos.

 

Sorry to hear about the medical emergency. We had that happen on a trip as well....it's hard to deal any time but with the small crowd on a river ship I think it's especially hard.

[Ontario Cruiser]

Did the men wear jackets on your cruise?

Ontario Cruiser

[Hydrokitty]

Did the men wear jackets on your cruise?

Ontario Cruiser

 

Most did not. You will feel comfortable with or v without jacket.