Journey with Bill & Mary Ann on the 2016 fall Tales of the South Pacific - 53 days

[bettty45]

What cabin are you in or did I miss that? We just booked on the 80 day Amsterdam Grand Asia cruise for next October and I'm so excited!!! I never thought my husband would agree but he has and now we both are starting to get in the mode :).

 

 

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[Johaz]

I did this cruise two years ago and celebrated my 70th birthday on Nuku Hiva. Loved all the stops on this cruise.

 

 

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[bettty45]

I did this cruise two years ago and celebrated my 70th birthday on Nuku Hiva. Loved all the stops on this cruise.

 

 

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Do you recommend it and did you like the ship?

 

 

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[Johaz]

Mine was on the Statendam, which is out of service, but, yes, I loved the cruise and will likely do it again.

 

 

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[WCB]

Report #21 Fanning Island October 14, 2016 Thursday Partly sunny & 84 degrees Part #1 Of 3 85 Pictures

 

Smack dab in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, and halfway between Hawaii and Australia, is a string of 32 coral atolls by the name of the Line Islands or Kiribati. They are situated near the Equator and also the International Dateline.

 

The particular island we are visiting today is Fanning Island, an atoll with a total land area of 13 square miles spread out in a ring around a lagoon of 426 square miles. Because the deepest part of this saltwater lagoon is only 50 feet, the color of the water is turquoise blue to azure in places.

 

Way back in 1798, American Captain Edmund Fanning discovered this atoll, mostly because of the native bush and coconut trees reached 60 to 90 feet, making this atoll visible from a greater distance. There was not one living soul on this island at the time. Later, in 1857, William Greig arrived here and declared that he was the King of Fanning Island. Eventually, in the 1980’s, more natives from the surrounding atolls were re-located here to alleviate overpopulation. Today, about 2000 people live here, mainly employed to grow coconuts and farm seaweed for export.

 

The Amsterdam arrived outside the English Channel Pass, where it may or may not have dropped anchor. Sometimes where there is an abundance of coral, the ship can be held in place with the side thrusters. Our stay today was between 8am to 1:30pm, a very short one. For that reason, we chose to skip breakfast, meet with Christel, who escorted our small group down to deck A, and be among the first over to the atoll. We were joined by a half dozen other folks, who we assume were deck seven.

 

We figured by going over early, it may not be too hot yet. It was very humid however, and that gets to you faster than the heat. We watched for dolphins on the way through the turbulent opening from the ocean to the lagoon, but did not see any. Maybe later………..

 

There is a small pier that sticks out into the lagoon, and we soon realized that it was new from last year’s pier. No need for the crew to bring over plywood and screw guns to re-enforce the structure before we got there, like they usually do.

 

The greeting for our group was a choir of girls, singing, as we came ashore. Some of the adult locals were dressed in native costumes, chanting and dancing for us all. A couple hundred of the natives had tables of souvenirs set up for us to purchase. Mostly shell-made baskets, bracelets, and necklaces, and all hand-made. There were knives carved from wood and decorated with sharp shark teeth. Definitely something for everyone, and a donation that will be put to good use.

 

Nearby this landing is their marketplace, which really is a huge shed that holds staples. It was closed today, because they only have enough to sustain themselves. Judging from the trash we found along the roads, they eat a whole lot of snack foods in small packages. And canned foods, since we saw lots of that laying around. It is most common to see fires where this trash is piled, then burned….eventually.

 

Outside the marketplace, a group of pre-schoolers was singing for the growing crowd from the ship. It appears that more than half of the population are kids under 12 or 13. The older ones may have been off fishing or working the coconut farms with the men.

 

Deciding to check out the souvenir tables later, we headed up the road of crushed coral and sand. Filled with deep ruts, it was a bit easier walking this year, because it had not rained the night before. No deep puddles to negotiate. Most everyone here rides a bike, and a few have motor bikes. We did see a few longbed trucks that have been converted to take folks on a $10 tour. Not a bad idea for those that can’t take the heat, or simply cannot walk too far.

 

All the roadside homes are simple huts. Cooking is done outdoors, but without the convenience of electricity. Water is supplied by crude wells or the newer plastic rain water collectors. Some of the “bedrooms” are raised platforms with a thatched roof. Clothes were hung on lines to air dry, and probably all hand-washed.

 

In the yards, we saw a few cats, several chickens, pigs, and a whole lot of dogs. Making our way towards the lagoon side, we got to see the underwater seaweed beds and drying grounds on the small beaches. The school houses were empty today, since it was Saturday, the local date. By the way, this is the first time ever that we did not skip a day when we crossed the International Dateline before arriving here. So we kept Friday, the 14th, even though it was Saturday, the 15th here.

 

Eventually, we came to the church and the huge meeting hall. Local women were beginning to clean up around the outside, although, we are certain that the door to the church was never opened. The ship’s map indicated that this was a Catholic church, however, there was nothing to indicate what it was…..no signage, or a cross.

 

We passed many natives on their way towards the pier. For the most part, only the women and children greeted us and wanted to know where we were from. The boys were more shy, hiding in trees or tagging alongside us. One such boy happened to have on the identical print shirt as mine. No kidding. I did make mine a few years ago with fabric from Hilo, but have never seen anyone else with the same print. Especially not here in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Once it occurred to the little boy that we looked alike, he stuck to us like glue. That is, until someone else came along with chocolate candy from the ship, handing them out to a group of girls.

 

Quite often, passengers bring donations like school supplies, used clothing, or trinkets from their homeplace. Keyrings or city pins. We are sure the kids like candy better, but with little if any dental care, the sweets might not be a great idea.

 

By the time we made it back to the pier, hundreds of passengers had flooded the area. A small group was swimming in the lagoon, being most careful not to go anywhere near the lagoon entrance.

 

Near the end of the atoll, is a monument dedicated to those who came here in the late 1700’s and 1800’s. The walking became difficult here due to large rocks of coral that line the water’s edge. These rocks wrap around the outside of the atoll, where swimming would be fatal because of the extreme currents and undertow.

 

Checking out the treasures being sold, we found a few pieces of shell jewelry to add to the collection. Several of the youngest children were huddled under the tables, staying out of the hot sun. It had sprinkled briefly, but stopped just as fast.

 

Even though we had brought some water with us, it wasn’t enough. Thank goodness for the crew that handed out cold lemonade, although the line was long. Spending four hours here was sufficient. So we got on the next really crowded tender boat for the ride back. It got rough going through the channel, but the worst part was being held up at the ship’s platform. Another boat was off-loading their guests, but at a snail’s pace. The swell of the waves had slowed down the process, as well as the xray we go through after entering. For those reasons, it took 45 minutes to get back onboard. There has to be a better way to do this, which might include opening a second landing. To be fair, there are things we do not know about tendering, and the crew and staff do their utmost best to keep things safe.

 

Our timing was perfect for lunch in the dining room. Besides ice water, we must have emptied three glasses of ice tea with our pulled pork sandwiches. The best part was the wonderful air-conditioning. The dining room was busy this afternoon, and some late-comers had to be turned away.

 

The sail away did not happen until closer to 3pm, because of the delay in getting the folks back onboard. Friends told us that one boat had broken down at one point, and had to be towed back with all of the passengers onboard. Another delay occurred when a request was made by the islanders for much needed fuel for their generators. They had run short of their supply. Lucky we could help them out.

 

The boats had to be loaded also, a slow process to keep things safe. Great snacks and drink specials had been advertised on the Seaview deck, but somehow we missed seeing any of that. What we did see, made our day. Sensing in our bones, we kept a lookout for dolphins. Just about giving up, there they were, a small group swimming alongside, jumping in the ship’s wake. It happened so quickly, but the good camera caught the action. The perfect ending to a unique port of call.

 

Working on photos and reports took the remainder of the afternoon, but in the comfort of our room. The highlight of our evening was another dinner in the Pinnacle Grill, where we found it quite busy. Caesar salad always starts off our meal, although we do miss the warm bacon and arugula salad, long gone from their menu. We both had steaks, mushrooms, and French fries.

 

On our way to dinner, we passed by the Queens Lounge and caught some of the show in progress. A group by the name of Vox Fortura was performing classical music. What a powerhouse of voices. They recently were semi-finalists on Britain’s Got Talent. Hope they come back again, because we would like to see the entire show.

 

We now have three days at sea on our way to Pago Pago, American Samoa.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[easyboy]

Enjoying your live reporting.

[JamesEM]

Thanks for the history lesson and photos.

[DFD1]

I just discovered your pictures. WOW! They are really great. Thank you for all the work you put into sharing your cruise with so many of us.

[WCB]

Report # 22 Sailing Towards Pago Pago, Samoa October 15, 2016 Saturday Sunny & 88 degrees 22 Photos

 

A day at sea was most appreciated today. The biggest event was crossing the Equator sometime during the day. Captain Fred mentioned it during his PM talk. However, he claimed that he summoned King Neptune for the crossing ceremony, but he was much too busy to attend to the Amsterdam. Bet we do this ceremony on the way back from Nuku Hiva.

 

There seems to a “bug” going around the passengers in the way of a nasty cold with a bad cough to follow. No matter where we go, such as the dining room at breakfast, or the pool, or at the lectures, you can expect to hear coughing all around you. Unfortunately, one of us has had a bout with it this last week. Expect it to be gone soon. These things are almost unavoidable, no matter how many times you wash your hands or use sanitizer. It’s in the air inside the entire ship.

 

We find the best place to be is outside in the fresh ocean breeze. That’s why we spend the afternoon at the back pool. The weather was as close to perfect as it could be. You would expect the sun to be unbearable around the Equator, but today it was pleasant with a nice breeze. Still, we used copious amounts of sunscreen.

 

Forgot to mention that there was a special Chef’s Table dinner in the kitchen with Executive Chef Petr. It is for a very small group, and there are only 4 seats left. Although we have never done it, our friends have and really enjoyed it. They raved about the multi-course meal with lots of wine. It does come with a hefty price of $135 per person.

 

Another special dinner in the Pinnacle Grill is called the Sommelier Dinner, again with many wines, for $85 per person. Sometimes these dinners are fully booked before the cruise even begins. Especially on the Grand Voyages.

 

While we are on the subject of food, we noticed that the entrée display at dinnertime in the Lido has disappeared. Now you have to read the menu to see what’s for dinner. Got to admit, checking out the entrée display sometimes changed our minds on what we were going to order. Unless the plates were arranged artistically, the food did not looking too appealing.

 

A few of the upcoming ports are new areas for our location guide, Kainoa. He has not been to Savusavu or Lautoka, both in Fiji. Today during his talk, he got some help from Paki, one of the new location entertainers. He has been to Lautoka, and described it pretty well. Not a whole lot there, but a good place to explore on your own. We have not been to Savusavu, but it appears to be a tender port with a small town within walking distance. Beaches look beautiful there, so that may be an option for many folks.

 

Guest speaker Sadie Urbanowicz spoke all about Polynesian plants and their uses. In fact, as this is being written, the rerun of her lecture is running on the TV. Interesting to find out where pineapples, coconuts, and other tropical plants came from in this part of the world. Quite interesting for those of us that love gardening.

 

All of our tablemates were present this evening at dinnertime. We were sad to hear that none of them attempted to go to Fanning Island yesterday. With all of the warnings about the heat and humidity, and the possible long tender ride, they were scared off. No other port will be quite like this one.

 

We tried different entrees tonight. One of us had the vegetarian lasagna, and the other ordered sweet and sour shrimp. The long, narrow plate came with large panko coated shrimps. Very tasty. The food sure has been good this trip.

 

A new show featured Strings Alive, a duo of artists playing guitars, piano, violins, and vocals. High energy, we heard.

 

Tomorrow will be another day at sea.

 

Bill& Mary Ann

[madjohn]

I had not heard of Fanning Island before. As I read about your visit, I went online and checked out its location and saw some pictures. You have made me want to visit. Sounds great. Sorry your dinner mates did not go. I can't imagine missing a port like that. Now another big city or something ok, but this sounded unique.

[Theredofshaw]

Report # 22 Sailing Towards Pago Pago, Samoa October 15, 2016 Saturday Sunny & 88 degrees 22 Photos

 

A day at sea was most appreciated today. The biggest event was crossing the Equator sometime during the day. Captain Fred mentioned it during his PM talk. However, he claimed that he summoned King Neptune for the crossing ceremony, but he was much too busy to attend to the Amsterdam. Bet we do this ceremony on the way back from Nuku Hiva.

 

There seems to a “bug” going around the passengers in the way of a nasty cold with a bad cough to follow. No matter where we go, such as the dining room at breakfast, or the pool, or at the lectures, you can expect to hear coughing all around you. Unfortunately, one of us has had a bout with it this last week. Expect it to be gone soon. These things are almost unavoidable, no matter how many times you wash your hands or use sanitizer. It’s in the air inside the entire ship.

 

We find the best place to be is outside in the fresh ocean breeze. That’s why we spend the afternoon at the back pool. The weather was as close to perfect as it could be. You would expect the sun to be unbearable around the Equator, but today it was pleasant with a nice breeze. Still, we used copious amounts of sunscreen.

 

Forgot to mention that there was a special Chef’s Table dinner in the kitchen with Executive Chef Petr. It is for a very small group, and there are only 4 seats left. Although we have never done it, our friends have and really enjoyed it. They raved about the multi-course meal with lots of wine. It does come with a hefty price of $135 per person.

 

Another special dinner in the Pinnacle Grill is called the Sommelier Dinner, again with many wines, for $85 per person. Sometimes these dinners are fully booked before the cruise even begins. Especially on the Grand Voyages.

 

While we are on the subject of food, we noticed that the entrée display at dinnertime in the Lido has disappeared. Now you have to read the menu to see what’s for dinner. Got to admit, checking out the entrée display sometimes changed our minds on what we were going to order. Unless the plates were arranged artistically, the food did not looking too appealing.

 

A few of the upcoming ports are new areas for our location guide, Kainoa. He has not been to Savusavu or Lautoka, both in Fiji. Today during his talk, he got some help from Paki, one of the new location entertainers. He has been to Lautoka, and described it pretty well. Not a whole lot there, but a good place to explore on your own. We have not been to Savusavu, but it appears to be a tender port with a small town within walking distance. Beaches look beautiful there, so that may be an option for many folks.

 

Guest speaker Sadie Urbanowicz spoke all about Polynesian plants and their uses. In fact, as this is being written, the rerun of her lecture is running on the TV. Interesting to find out where pineapples, coconuts, and other tropical plants came from in this part of the world. Quite interesting for those of us that love gardening.

 

All of our tablemates were present this evening at dinnertime. We were sad to hear that none of them attempted to go to Fanning Island yesterday. With all of the warnings about the heat and humidity, and the possible long tender ride, they were scared off. No other port will be quite like this one.

 

We tried different entrees tonight. One of us had the vegetarian lasagna, and the other ordered sweet and sour shrimp. The long, narrow plate came with large panko coated shrimps. Very tasty. The food sure has been good this trip.

 

A new show featured Strings Alive, a duo of artists playing guitars, piano, violins, and vocals. High energy, we heard.

 

Tomorrow will be another day at sea.

 

Bill& Mary Ann

 

 

Good ol king neptune. Had my experience with him while on the USS Reagan back in 2008. Do they do a ceremony of sorts on cruise ships as well?

[Scrapnana]

We were supposed to visit Fanning Island on the Westerdam last April but the wind and the sea did not cooperate. Our roll call (as well as others) had collected quite a bit of goods to give the islanders. These were off-loaded in another port but I doubt any of them made it to Fanning.

 

Glad you were able to make it ashore and I enjoyed seeing the pictures of what I did not get to see in person.

[Scrapnana]

Good ol king neptune. Had my experience with him while on the USS Reagan back in 2008. Do they do a ceremony of sorts on cruise ships as well?

 

The ships have funny (especially if you are only a spectator) ceremonies for crossing the line. Here is a link to my blog post the day of the ceremony on the Westerdam last April (pictures at the bottom of the post). http://halcruises2016.blogspot.com/2016/04/at-sea_28.html

[WCB]

Report #23 Sailing Towards Pago Pago, Samoa October 16, 2016 Sunday Sunny & 88 degrees 18 Pictures

 

The forecast for today was sunny. In this part of the world, anything goes. Today was one of those days where we had extreme heat and humidity, precious little breeze, clouds, and rain. Believe us, by the late afternoon, the rain showers were most welcomed.

 

Since today was a Sunday, and we were at sea (no port), there was another Sunday Brunch in the dining room starting at 11am to 1pm. Looks like this has become a tradition, which really involves a lot of work for the kitchen staff. The head waiters kept the middle section of the lower dining room free of breakfast eaters. As a result, we were seated in a different area. The good thing was that our usual morning waiters were moved to that area. They have come to memorize our starters of orange juice, coffee, and yogurts with fruit. They have these items ready and waiting every morning we come in. Recently, all of the fresh berries have disappeared. Our waiters are so sorry that they apologize. We know the drill…….when they have an abundance of fresh produce, we have some of it every day. With the next container delivery expected in Pago Pago, we hope the berries are replenished.

 

On location talks described Dravuni Island and Nuku’alofa, two places we have visited last year. In a few days, a flyer from the shore excursions will probably be on our mailslot with openings for tours in these areas. The pressure is on, although the price never changes, but some popular tours can be sold out. And there is always the reminder that if you go independently, you will probably not get a driver that has insurance coverage. Something to think about all the time, especially after the story Kainoa told about a driver that let his clients off halfway into the tour, stating that he had to go home because his wife was having a baby. He said he called for another driver, but that person never showed up. Remember, if you miss the ship’s all aboard time, they will not wait. We have seen it happen more than once.

 

The Polynesian troupe onboard has been entertaining the folks at lunchtime in the Lido Pool area. Today, it must have been 200 degrees in there. With a following breeze, there was no relief from the heat. We swear that on the aft deck, we could fry an egg on that imitation teak decking. Only the diehard sun-lovers were back there today. And for a lot of the time, many spent the time in the pool, which was cool and clean. The two of us included.

 

There were two visitors flying overhead ……..two female frigate birds. Since there are no nearby islands, we tend to think that the birds have hitched a ride from a recent stop, perhaps Fanning Island. These birds cannot land on the water, or they will drown. Their feathers do not have the necessary oils to keep them afloat.

 

There was a different type of trivia at 1pm.. It was called BBC Earth: Trivia from Earth. It was held in the Crows Nest, in addition to the usual team trivia that Gene does in the Crows Nest as well, but at 11:45am. A final trivia game is played at 7:30pm in the Piano Bar, appropriately called Pub Trivia.

 

We have not had a chance to check out tea time in the lower dining room at 3pm. It is a good time for a snack, especially if you eat dinner late. As for us, we came back to the comfort of our cool room, and ordered room service lunch. Salads and a shared sandwich would do just fine.

 

Going for a walk, we found that it was now raining. That dropped the temperatures a lot, which was a relief. Most all of the teak lounge chairs were occupied today with folks reading, working on computers, or sneaking a nap. One reward during our walk, was seeing a rainbow, which lasted only a few minutes.

 

Before 7pm, we headed to deck nine to watch the sunset. Every night presents a different view, especially with the various layers of clouds that exist down here.

 

Dinner was a tad bit disappointing this evening because the prime rib was a little on the tough side, and cooked more than we like it. Still tasty, but after missing it on another night, we were looking forward to a better meal.

 

Showtime was an Aussie gal, Chelsea Gibb, a singer from Adelaide. Also, the clocks went back one hour tonight. That is always a good thing, especially when the heat and humidity zap the energy from many folks.

 

One more sea day to Samoa.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

 

Another South Pacific sunset….this one was at 6:58pm.

[WCB]

Report #24 Sailing Towards Pago Pago, Samoa October 17, 2016 Monday Sunny & 82 degrees

 

It’s always a good idea to read the daily newsletter early in the morning. That way you won’t be shocked when the alarms go off at 9:30am for a crew fire drill, especially when relaxing or walking around the promenade deck. The folks that were snoozing outside were not one bit pleased with the disturbance. These drills take place more often than we can remember. And that is a good thing. Today’s drill involved the use of hoses from deck A, we assume. The wind carried the spray, which soon cleared out all of the loungers on the port side. With the morning heating up, it actually felt good.

 

Two events this morning dealt with a lecture on World War 2, and a cooking show with guest chef, Natacha Gomez. Two of her creations, stuffed chicken croquette and jumbo grilled honey/beer glazed shrimp would be on the menu tonight.

 

The book club met with the librarian for a group discussion on The Happy Isles of Oceania, written by Paul Theroux. We were so lucky to have met him in person on this year’s world cruise. Having read his book many years ago, we enjoyed reading it again. We have heard a rumor that soon there will be no librarians onboard, and also the size of the library will be reduced. That’s not good news in our opinion, and we hope we are wrong. Of course, with laptops, Kindles, and audio books, real honest-to-goodness hardback books will be obsolete.

 

Polynesian activities continue with a fitness class learning the hot hula. Ukulele is still being taught, and there is even a Polynesian teatime. The dance class featured the merengue, which doesn’t really fit into the current theme, but for those who love to dance, they don’t mind. We’re not sure who the teachers are, but this class was added by popular demand we heard.

 

The Pinnacle Grill was converted into a Sommelier Dinner with Cellar Master Jacques hosting. For the price of $85 per person, the meal is paired with fine wines from the first course through dessert. Although we have never gone to one (we don’t drink wine very often), we heard it is a quite nice affair.

 

Yesterday, we turned in a “Let Us Know” card with a few compliments for staff and crew members. These cards are new, broken into three categories. Tell us what you like (we won’t change it), tell us what you don’t like (we will try to fix it), and finally, a place to thank staff. It is always nice to let them know they are appreciated. Anyway, by dinnertime, we were being thanked for our comments. That continued this morning with our room stewards, and also one of the head housekeepers on our deck. They really do appreciate positive comments along the way.

 

Grandma’s chicken noodle soup and wienerschnitzel made our dinner good tonight. The lemon tart with blueberry compote finished the meal nicely. Since tomorrow is a port day, we skipped the show – a combo of Strings Alive and John Pinney, the boxer/turned/comedian.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report #25 Pago Pago, Samoa October 18, 2016 Tuesday Partly Sunny ? & 84 degrees 86 Pictures Part #1 Of 3

 

Samoa consists of five volcanic islands totaling 76 square miles. But if you add the surrounding marine waters, that number increases to 117,500 square miles. That makes Samoa’s area about the same size as New Zealand. Ninety percent of the islands are covered with untouched tropical rainforest, making it an ecotourism haven for visitors.

 

One of the main islands of Samoa is Tutuila, and it belongs to the good old USA. It is known here as American Samoa. The port we docked in today is Pago Pago (pronounced Pango Pango). You can find a national park here that spans three islands. Besides rainforests, native animals, hiking trails, and Samoan culture, the park preserves and protects all of the coral reefs. And because of its location, this park is the most southern national park of the United States, and the only one below the Equator.

 

The tours today were all done in local basic island buses. Open air and wooden seats is about as good as it gets here. Kainoa suggested in his talks for folks to bring a ship’s beach towel to use as a cushion on these buses. The duration of the tours was 3 to 4 hours at prices from $50 to $55 US dollars. By the way, everything here is in US dollars.

 

Things to see here are the Flower Pot Rock, the Leone Missionary Monument, The Leala Sliding Rocks, Camel Rocks, and the Turtle and Shark legend. Been there, done that, more than once. The locals do try hard to make the tours work for everyone, but their approach is different from most places we have been. It’s been our experience that one experienced guide is placed at each of these sites. The plan is to have all the buses to meet at each spot at the same time. Then the guide gives the talk just once. Well, that did not work out good for us, since we were the last bus to arrive, and we missed the talks at each place. So today, it was no tours for us.

 

We have to address the weather, which was definitely not partly sunny as our newsletter had stated. The dry season here is from April to October, while the wet season is from November to March. Guess we are late enough in the dry season for rain to happen. And happen, it did. Partly sunny, became mostly cloudy. The wind picked up, which was wonderful, because it was hot and humid. We had a slight sprinkle, but knew there was more than that coming.

 

The Amsterdam sailed slowly into the harbor of Pago Pago around 7am, where we docked at Fagatogo. We noticed that the locals were in the process of building a new pier. Much has changed on this pier since the first time we came here. Many souvenir stalls lined the dock just steps from the gangway. Now half of the dock is under re-construction, while the rest is off limits to any stalls. We suspect security has something to do with the changes.

 

Like we said earlier, it was hot and humid when we left the ship around 10:00 am. Taking a right turn out of the pier, we walked through several districts. One stop was at a local hardware store to look for a spritzer bottle for ice water. That will work good at the back pool on sea days to keep us cooler. Lucky to find it, since this store had limited supplies of everything. Not exactly like shopping at home.

 

We continued around the bottom of the harbor, past McDonalds, a most popular fast food place here. Especially today, with our ship in port. Many passengers and even more crew members come here for lunch and free internet. The only downfall with that is the more people using it, the slower it becomes. Now that we’re thinking of it, the internet on the ship has been most co-operative on this trip so far. We suspect some work has been done on it while we were gone this summer.

 

Passing a few inns, a nightclub, a museum, and some small shops, we came to their produce market and souvenir building. They sell fruit and veggies here outside on the covered patio, while t-shirts, beachwear, pareos, wood carvings, and costume jewelry are sold inside. Everything was reasonably priced we thought.

 

Deeper into town, we found roadside homes, some with graves in the front yards. This is a common practice among the older families, and something we have seen in many other island nations. We made it as far as the ball fields, a Catholic Church, and almost to the tuna factories. These canning facilities employ many folks here, as does the government.

 

There was a pizza restaurant on the hillside, but we were too early for lunch. So we turned around and headed back towards the ship. We did make a stop at the re-located craft and souvenir tents, located in a huge grassy area along the main road. They offered everything here, and one of us had no trouble finding a new silky pareo to add to the collection.

 

We cooled our heels back on the ship until 1:30pm, then took off on a left turn to the Utulei area, where we knew we would see the fruit bats in the tall roadside trees. Because of the darker clouds, the bats were active and flying overhead. A bit further up the road, we watched the fishermen tending the huge nets that are used for the tuna. They were a happy bunch of fellows that waved when we took their pictures hard at work.

 

Right at the turn in the road, we came across Goat Island Point, and Sadie’s by the Sea, a beachside hotel and café. We took seats on the outside patio, facing the bay. The breeze was great while we enjoyed beers, nachos, and split a burger. We were mostly done when the rain began. In seconds, it went from sprinkle to downpour. We simply grabbed our glasses and plates, and moved inside to an empty table. Gosh, when it rains here, it is heavy. In no big hurry to leave, we decided to have dessert. We split a slice of black forest multi-layered chocolate cake with cherry compote. Here it is called Koko Samoa cake. You had to have a scoop of vanilla ice cream with that. By the time we finished, the rain let up, and it was time to go.

 

Once again, we got lucky, because right after we boarded the ship, the sky opened up, and the rain continued coming down heavily. It would stay that way until sail away, which had to be moved to the Crows Nest. We watched from deck seven aft, where we stayed dry. Don’t know when we’ll be back here, since the 2017 world cruise will be heading north towards Japan after leaving Hawaii. Instead of melting from the heat, we’ll be freezing instead.

 

There was a knock on our door shortly before dinner. Christel, the guest relations manager, had sent us a beautiful bouquet of flowers, a gift for our small problem with the leak last weekend. We are lucky to have a friend in high places, who is also very thoughtful.

 

Dinner tonight was in the Pinnacle Grill. We both ordered lamb chops, and they were really tasty. The only downside of the day was that the clocks had to be turned ahead 25 hours. In other words, sometime during this evening, we will be crossing the International Dateline once again. The last time, we did not recognize it, because Fanning Island had no clocks or businesses. It did not matter that it was Friday for us, but Saturday for the locals. It will be different here, so technically, we will lose a day plus an hour.

 

It’s already 1am, and time to sign off. We are only 80 or so miles from our next port of call, Apia, Samoa. That means we will be doing a mere 7 knots, and it may be a bit rough.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report #26 Apia, Upolu, Samoa October 20, 2016 Thursday Partly Sunny & 86 degrees 85 Pictures Part #1 Of 3

 

Our port of call for today was Apia, on the island of Upolu, Samoa. The population is 37,000 people. Even though the distance from Pago Pago is over 80 miles, there is a sharp contrast between these islands. Yesterday’s port was more village-like and far less modern. Apia is a bigger city with high rise buildings, huge markets, hotels, and the hustle and bustle of a busy metropolis. We get the feeling that this island may be more suited for tourists, looking for diving, snorkeling, and hiking, but also for luxury and comfort.

 

The claim to fame for Apia is the fact that Robert Louis Stevenson, the famous author, lived and wrote here for a number of years. He said he found island bliss here. His home has been turned into a museum, and you can take a tour there. Speaking of tours, four of them were offered in and out of Apia today. Durations were from 3 ½ to 6 hours, and all but one had a kava ceremony involved. That one was a panoramic drive with a beach stop and lunch. Last year, we took an all day tour to the Le Vasa Villa Resort, assuming there was no kava ceremony. Wrong. Once we arrived to the resort, about a 2 hour ride, the first thing they did was invite us into the lobby to participate in the kava welcome. As we mentioned before, kava is a concoction made from brewing roots of a peppermint bush (or something close to it). Not sure what else goes into it, but it comes out like a muddy drink, which is shared from a common bowl that is passed among the participants. And it is probably not polite to refuse it.

 

So we tried to fade into the backround, blending in with the wallpaper, so to speak. Maybe they won’t notice us. After all, there were about 30 of us that came in the bus. Nope, didn’t work. Wouldn’t you know it……the chief headed right for us with the muddy drink. No choice, we pretended to take that sip, then quickly pass it to the next guest. Bottom line…..we survived it, but promised not to be put in that situation again.

 

So, no tours for us today. First thing we did, was get off of the ship, and get a good map of the city. By 10:30am, most of the tour buses had left, and the local greeters were not too busy. One of the gals gave us good directions to town and the best place to find a nice lunch.

 

On our way out of the port, we talked to friends that were already on their way back to the ship. They hiked over an hour, but the heat got to them. Glad we threw a couple of sodas in the bag before we left.

 

Right on the pier, there is shopping……..souvenirs, clothing, carvings, etc. You did not have to go far to find a treasure. The money used here is the Samoan tala and is worth 2.62 to the US $1.00. However, at these open markets, they gladly take US dollars.

 

We walked and walked around the Apia Harbor, all the way to town, passing by a slew of taxi drivers, offering us cheap tours. We have to admit, they were polite, even when we said no thanks. One of the nicest hotels we passed was the Sheraton. It was formerly Aggie Greys Hotel until Sheraton bought it a few years back. We will definitely come back here after our walk.

 

The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is a beautiful church that we toured last year. A good place to stop was the Samoa Tourism Authority, where we picked up more information with numerous pamphlets.

 

Right in the center of town is the Town Clock, which was built after World War 2. Nearby was the Fish Market, a large Flea Market, and the local bus depot. We read somewhere that there are no specific bus stops. You simply wave them down, then pay when you exit.

 

The fish market was interesting, although technically it opened at 5:30am and was supposed to close by 8am. An assortment of freshly-caught fish was still being sold, so half of the vendors were still there, waving the flies away with palm leaves.

 

We picked up some small keepsakes at the Flea Market, but did not last long under the tents. It was just too hot and sticky there. Up the road a piece, we located the Fugalei Market, the largest open-air produce and souvenir building. Of course, it was easy to find some more treasures here. We would have liked to buy some of those small tangy bananas, but it was too far to pack them.

 

Making our way back, we went directly to the Sheraton. We were received into the lobby like we were royalty. People here are really nice. We inquired about a restaurant here, and we were sent through the lobby to a winding roof-covered path to the swimming pool and restaurant overlooking it. A duo of guitar singers were entertaining some guests there while they enjoyed lunch.

 

Never guess what we had………..Margherita pizza, of course. And local beer by the name of Manutagi. Sitting under the overhead fans near the outdoor breeze was perfect. Our waitress said it had rained all night, and they were looking forward to the change of seasons. She said it was too hot and humid for the locals too. Compared to yesterday, the weather was partly cloudy and warm today. Of course, packing the umbrella did the trick.

 

Walking back, we crossed a small bridge over the Vaisigano River. A feral dog was wading in the shallow pools in the river, cooling off in the heat. He wasn’t dumb. A reminder we needed to cool off ourselves, but that would be back on the ship.

 

All aboard was 4:30pm, and the sail away party was at 5pm. It was easy for the ship to sail out of this harbor, because it was right outside a small breakwater. We doubt we even had a pilot with us. As the island got smaller, we watched the sea birds work the wake, catching small fish. We were about to leave when we saw a couple of tropic birds flying around the aft of the ship. They are a give-away as they sport one long tail feather, and are prettier than the terns or gulls. Definitely prettier than the one frigate bird we saw chasing after the tern’s catch.

 

While we were working on photos, we noticed that we were passing a bunch of tiny islands outside our window as we sail towards Fiji. Should be there by Saturday.

 

Most of us ordered the salisbury steak for dinner tonight. It came with a mushroom gravy with mashed potatoes and peas and carrots. Such a typical comfort meal.

 

Showtime was a performance by the singers and dancers, we assume. Bellisima was the title with a classical concert-style experience. They really are a talented group. Wonder why they did this show tonight, instead of saving it for tomorrow’s Gala evening? Unusual entertainment for a port day.

 

The clocks went back one hour tonight, which is unusual to do two time changes in two days. Take one hour away, then give it right back. No wonder we are getting dizzy.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[Gail & Marty sailing away]

Thanks for blogging.

 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Forums mobile app

[WCB]

Report # 27 Sailing Towards Savu Savu, Vanua Levi, Fiji October 21, 2016 Friday Partly sunny & 84 degrees

 

Due to putting the clocks back one hour last night, both of us were awake well before the sunrise at 6:20am, or was it 5:20am? It seems that the printed sunrise and sunset times have quite often been off an hour. Whatever the time was, our room lit up with the orange hues of the upcoming sun. Wonder if the old saying,” Sunrise in the morning, sailor take warning” rings true. Many times that is very correct, and a storm is brewing. Hopefully, not today.

 

The subject of a lecture today dealt with literary and artistic figures, and what drew them to the South Pacific. A few of the most well-known of them were Gauguin, Melville, and Brando. Each one of them had a different story to tell. And as things turn out, some of those stories are what brought us to this part of the world.

 

Two ports in Tonga were discussed by Kainoa today. One is Nuku alofi, and the other is Vava u. We know one well, but the second port was new to us last year. It was a tender port, with extremes in tides. Well, maybe not that extreme, but enough of a difference that we had to almost slide into the waiting tender boat to get back to the ship. Hope they have a better plan this time.

 

Captain Fred gave an insider talk about the Amsterdam this morning in the Queens Lounge. Who better than the Captain himself to share everything he knows about running the crew and staff of this vessel. Always a popular talk.

 

We all got a copy of our statements this morning. Talking to several folks we know, we heard that there had been some charges on their bills that should not have been there. Sometimes it does happen, but we have always found that it can be corrected easily. The whole trick is making sure you read that statement, and make sure it is correct.

 

We had a pretty lazy day, well-earned after walking so much yesterday. Thanks to a constant breeze, relaxing at the Seaview Pool was do-able. The same group seems to be coming on sea days, some to sunbathe, and others to bob up and down in the pool. Twinkle, the assistant beverage manager, sent us some slightly flavored ice water……a little lemon, orange, and even cucumber tasting. It was quite refreshing in this heat.

 

By 2:30pm, we cooled off in our room, and ordered chef salads. Last night at dinner, our waiters told us that there was a shortage of lettuce for salads. Never heard that before. So we did see that our room service salads were mostly arugula and sprouts. They were good, but we were not told no, they were not available when we ordered them. We heard at dinnertime tonight that the entire salad bar in the Lido was closed at lunch today, due to no ingredients. For the first time ever, there was a notice in tomorrow’s newsletter that the demand has been greater than the supply. And apparently, local options were non-existent in this part of the world. Come to think of it, all we saw in the way of lettuce, was cabbage. Anyway, a new supply will arrive by air when we get to Lautoka in 3 days.

 

There was a formal dinner tonight, the third one of the cruise so far. It seemed to be well-attended, and there were at least three birthday celebrations that we heard. The waiters love to sing their special song, and even add percussion with empty trays and metal lids. Some of the entrees were crab legs, tournedos of beef, quail, and a vegetarian ravioli. But the best was the dessert……..cappachino bombe, a chocolate-coated scoop of coffee ice cream on a plate of strawberry chunks. Also competing with this treat was key lime pie. Reading the lunch menu, we found mud pie was offered. Gosh, this was one day that we could have done desserts and nothing else.

 

The show tonight was something new to us…….Frozen Planet Live: a visual and musical journey. They combined footage from the BBC series with music. When we visited the Koningsdam last spring, we were treated to a brief show in their new theater. We can see where this new idea would work wonderfully on that ship, but here may be different. Will have to see what our tablemates have to say about it tomorrow.

 

Oh, by the way, the clocks went back another hour tonight. And we just realized that we did not receive the usual certificates that we crossed the International Dateline or the Equator. That’s a first……….

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[The Other Tom]

Thanks so much for your blogs. I enjoy reading them every day.

By the way, the saying is "Red sky at morning, sailor take warning, red sky at night, sailor's delight".

[WCB]

Report #28 Savusavu, Vanua Levi, Fiji October 22, 2016 Saturday Partly cloudy & 84 degrees 84 Pictures Part 1 Of 3

 

Our first stop in Fiji was on the island of Vanua Levi, and the small village of Savusavu. We have been here once before, but we estimate it had to be over 11 years ago. Back then, we always did a tour if we had not been to the area before. And since Fiji is known for fire dancing, we chose an excursion that took us up into the mountainside to a lodge. While enjoying a Fijian-style lunch, local entertainers performed with batons dipped in oil, then lit on fire. It was quite a show.

 

So today, we chose to stay in town and explore on foot. There is no dock here, so we had to use tender boats to get ashore. Looking out our window early this morning, we saw that the rain clouds were thick. Rain seemed a huge possibility. For that reason, we skipped breakfast, and went over on the first boat. Can’t say we don’t mind getting this priority, because the method is done “out of sight” of the rest of the passengers. There were only four of us, so Christel escorted us down the secret staircase near her office.

 

They had a few chairs set up for us while we waited for the platform to be set up. Took over a half hour, but while we waited and watched the process, the officials from Savusavu came onboard the ship. As they passed us, each and every one of them said “Bula”, the Fijian greeting meaning hello and welcome. These folks are so friendly. Then it was our turn to board, along with the crew and the shore supplies. Only one other couple came with us, taking their compact bikes with them.

 

The ride was very short as we made our way around several nice catamarans and yachts that were anchored in the sheltered harbor. It took some maneuvering to get the boat lined up for us to debark. There was a floating walkway to the old copra shed, now a restaurant and shops. Locals were handing out maps of the town and surrounding resorts. This town is still a copra town with a processing mill near the bottom of the bay. What brings the tourists here are the beautiful waters and the excellent snorkeling, diving, sailing, and fishing.

 

Numerous stalls were set up along the roadside, full of treasures…..carvings, clothing, jewelry, and lotions of coconut oil. Buses were lined up to take the folks on tours, most all of them 3 to 4 hours. Close by was the open-air market with produce grown locally. Taro root, coconuts, mangoes, bananas, chili peppers, tomatoes, squash, and cabbage were the main items being sold. Small pineapples were being sold….the ones we heard were excellent. We would have bought some bananas, but none of the vendors would take US dollars. There was the option of buying Fijian money onboard the ship, but usually, they will take dollars. All of the street vendors gladly took it. The rate was 2.03 Fiji dollars to 1 US dollar. However, when they did the math, they wanted much more than ½ their amount. We can understand making up the difference they have to pay for converting the money, but some were obviously taking advantage of the situation. The same type of silky pareos went from $10 to $40, depending on where you went. Go figure.

 

We located a walkway along the water’s edge, but it ended way too soon. The only option for walking was the only main road in town with no sidewalks. So we popped in and out of the many shops, noticing that most of them were either Indian or Chinese run. The main store, Jack’s, even had a section selling Indian saris and ladies jewelry. Best to wait for the real deal in Mumbai next year, as these items were pricey.

 

Just about every person in town, including the kids, said bula, bula to us. We responded in kind. Walking to the other end of town took some more time, but if we had continued onward, we would have ended up passing many private resorts. One of the most famous ones here is Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort. We met him several years ago while on another cruise in the Med. Actually it was in Funchal, where we rode the same gondola to the sleds on the mountainside. We can see why he chose this island to build a resort, since he is so closely tied to the water and the treasures they hold.

 

After four hours of exploring, we decided to go back to the ship. It was too early for lunch onshore, and truthfully, we only saw one place where we would have eaten. That was right at the Copra Shed and the tender landing. All the seats were taken by the time we got there. The boats were loaded with guests coming over to shore, so it took a while for them to debark.

 

It appeared that the last of the tender tickets were still being handed out, because the table for the ticket collection was still set up. The ship’s gal taking the tickets said she was running short….looks like some of the folks were pocketing the tickets for future use. The problem with that is that they changed colors, so today’s blue might change to red on the next tender operation. They are one step ahead on this one.

 

Our intentions were to use our complimentary Pinnacle Grill lunch today, but we were both feeling under the weather. The dining room was closed, which happens often while the ship is in port. The Lido is always open, but we seldom dine there. So it was room service burgers again. Three days in a row of time changes sort of caught up with us, it can drain your energy.

 

It did rain off and on all afternoon, but the sail away still took place at the aft pool deck. Twinkle, the assistant beverage manager, joined us and said many guests were going to the Crows Nest as well. Of course happy hour was 4-5pm, and that always draws a crowd in the Crows Nest. So far on this cruise, the only happy hour deals are limited to 4-5pm and 9-10pm.

 

While we sailed away from the island, one fellow guest broke out his saxophone, and played some tunes for everyone. A very happy group at the Seaview Bar joined in singing to his music. That reminded us that the “live” music has disappeared from the sail aways. And there may be rules that will shut this guest down. We have seen that in the past when a friend of ours who played his trumpet at any given time, was asked to stop. Come to think of it, he was insulted, and has not come back for a long time.

 

The sun set behind a bank of clouds, which still looked full of rain. It was down right after 6pm, correctly printed in the daily newsletter today. Appears that our speed was very slow, since we are close to the next port of Suva.

 

Dinner found many different entrees on the menu. Since most all of the fresh produce is all but gone, the menu had to be changed to include some kind of cabbage side to each meal. Isn’t it funny that your craving for something becomes intense when there is a shortage? That is the case for lettuce, or any other type of green vegetable. It is obvious to us that buying locally is not an option. There is always the fear of tainted produce as well, nothing that would bother the locals, but might put the passengers and crew at risk for gastro-intestinal maladies. Heaven forbid…….

 

We saved a little room for dessert, which for us was a pumpkin muffin, full of nuts and tiny chocolate chips. Drizzled over it was an intensely spicy sauce with cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. Really good.

 

Our table was the last to leave, just in time for the show in the Queens Lounge. Jim Curry sand the tunes of John Denver along with the help of Anne Curry, we assume his partner. Reports of last night’s show were all positive. Tablemate Bill said he was able to stay awake for most of it. His wife Sylvia said he could sleep through anything, and usually does, like it or not. This show was a combo of the BBC series Frozen Planet, accompanied by the ship’s orchestra. Everyone was impressed.

 

No time change tonight…….thank goodness.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report # 29 Suva, Vitu Levu, Fiji October 23, 2016 Sunday Sunny & 88 degrees 83 Pictures Part # 1 Of 3

 

Remember we mentioned that certain days of the week were worth mentioning in the title of the blog? Well, that applies today, since we happened to be here in Suva on a Sunday. Not the best choice for the tourists, Sundays are a religious day, a day off, period. Understandable, we also recall many, many years ago, that Sunday was a church day, and a day of rest. Where we come from, that has changed. However, here in the South Pacific, it seems that time has stood still.

 

The Amsterdam sailed into the port of Suva, the capital city of Fiji since 1882. Old Suva was part of the British Empire at one point in history, and it has retained much of the influence in its architecture. Modern Suva is highly multi-cultural and has the look of a bustling city. It is full of shopping malls, restaurants, and night clubs, as well as traditional farmers markets.

 

It is the cultural aspects dating back to the colonial days that hold our interests. So once we were cleared by the local authorities, we went to breakfast first. We suspected that nothing much would be open before 10am anyway. Bill went down the gangway and got a map, and happened to talk to a local guard on the pier. He confirmed what we expected……most everything was closed today. The biggest disappointment for us was that the produce market was closed. This one is the largest we have been to in all of Fiji, darn. The nearby flea market was completely gone. The property was fenced off and being renovated by the Chinese. They have a major foothold in many of the South Seas islands we have noticed. Chinese money is responsible for many island improvements.

 

Other changes happened due to being here on Sunday. Ship’s tours that involved going to traditional villages were re-directed. The firewalkers do not perform today, and the village was closed we heard. So the folks that paid from $110 to $150 got a ride around the city, and a visit to the museum. Probably the guests that booked the longboat ride and waterfall swim made out better for $180, which included a box lunch. Since we have taken every tour here in previous visits, we were on our own today.

 

After passing by a slew of taxi drivers offering tours, we passed perhaps five tables of souvenirs on the way to down town. Besides Jack’s, the local department store, this would be our only chance for wood carvings or trinkets. Downtown was almost a ghost town this morning. McDonalds was open, but that was about it.

 

Once past the shopping area, we found our way to the coastline walkway. Eventually, it led to Albert Park, a huge soccer field with government buildings and a clock tower. Across from this park is Thurston Gardens and the Fiji Museum, which houses cannibal-era exhibits and also the rudder from Captain Bligh’s Bounty (Mutiny on the Bounty fame). The park is a lovely respite with old growth trees and monuments from the past. It was here that we ran into Tom M, our host, who was guiding the complimentary tour that was offered. He told us that most of their itinerary had been cancelled as well, and a visit here was all they could do. Glad we took the shipboard credit instead.

 

Continuing down the road, we passed the palace grounds that was guarded by the Guard of Honor, who stands at attention in his uniform for hours at a time. Has to be leftover tradition from the British days. Good thing they wear the lavalava sarongs….good ventilation. We followed the seawall until we ran out of sidewalk. Eventually, we came to a mangrove river and the road split, heading inland. Time to head back.

 

Retracing our steps, we stopped across from the palace to watch two massive trees that were full of hanging fruit bats. We suppose that these trees were full of fruit for these bats to eat. You could hear their screeches if you listened close enough. Otherwise, there was little activity with these creatures.

 

Our destination was the Grand Pacific Hotel facing the Suva Harbor. Back in its time, this iconic hotel was the place to visit. Quite proper in the British sense, this hotel, built around 1914 we think, was the highlight of the city. Visited by royalty over the years. However, time was not kind to the hotel, and eventually it fell into ruin. We heard that until the last five years or so, the building was reduced to a shell, and occupied by the homeless. It was leveled and rebuilt to its former glory. What used to be an English garden extending from the hotel to the water’s edge, now it is a most beautiful and inviting pool. A cabana bar is built on one side and has convenient restrooms for the guests and visitors alike.

 

We were welcomed into the spacious atrium by the friendly doorman, who greeted us with a robust “bula”. Out on the covered patio, we were seated with a view of the harbor that included a most pleasant breeze. We ordered Fijian Gold, the local beer, along with one hamburger and a beef schnitzel sandwich on focaccia bread. One came with the usual fries, while the beef sandwich was accompanied with fingers of breaded and deep-fried taro root. All of the flavor came from the spicy breading, with the taro remaining almost tasteless. Not like a potato, it is the root vegetable we have seen in all of the produce markets on all of the islands we have visited. Now we can say we have tried it. We probably could have gone without the ice cream for dessert, but it was so good. Have to admit, we had a two hour lunch, unhurried, and most enjoyable. Some folks from the ship were also there, actually crew members taking advantage of the cool water in the pool. Best place to swim, since with all of this waterfront, we saw no one in the water swimming. Could have something to do with the sewer pipes we saw coming in from the city.

 

Time to go back to the ship. All aboard was 5:30pm, but we returned by 4pm. One of the local lady vendors on the roadside was happy to make us a deal with some costume jewelry. Yesterday, a P&O ship was in port, and we heard they expect another ship tomorrow. The markets will come back to life for them.

 

Before the ship left, we heard music and singing outside on the dock. Looking out our window, we found the marching band was actually marching up and down the length of the ship, performing for us. At the same time, the Oceania Dane Theater was performing in the Queens Lounge, or at least we think they were. They may have cancelled as well.

 

We attending the sail away, hoping for a good sunset. But it did not happen…..too many rain clouds on the horizon. At least it did not rain today.

 

Back at our room, we found another log of the cruise. We did not know that Apia was the end of a segment, and the start of another one. Thought we spotted some new folks at sail away tonight. So far, we have traveled a distance of 6,734.5 nautical miles to Apia, Samoa. That translates into 7,745 statute miles. That is a lot of miles and we are still in the mighty Pacific Ocean.

 

Dinnertime found only four of us at our table. For a change, it was nice to visit with Annie and John, giving us a chance to get to know them better. We have learned much from them, since they have lived in many places around the world. Being in the military, 22 moves were involved in their lives. From most couples we have met, we think they win the prize for the most moves. All of us had the Hong Kong Tsao’s chicken entrée. The closest they could come to a salad tonight was shredded carrots with citrus slices. Our waiters promise that salads will be back on the menu tomorrow as long as we get our produce delivery. Hope so.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report #30 Lautoka, Fiji October 24, 2016 Monday Sunny & 84 degrees Part #1 Of 3 85 Pictures

 

Known as “sugar city”, Lautoka is the second largest city in Fiji, with a population of 50,000 people. The sugar mills employed mostly immigrant workers in the early 1900’s. Even today, this is the largest mill in the Southern Hemisphere.

 

Due to the workers coming from India and China, this area is a multi-cultural city. The food, the clothing, and the markets cater to the Hindus, Sikhs, and even some Muslims. In town, there is the Sri Krishna Kallya Temple, a Sikh temple, and a mosque. Near the market is a Catholic Church. Bet if we looked closer, we would find Protestant and Mormon. Restaurants offer curries and seafood dishes, exotic and spicy.

 

To add to the mystique, a reminder of the British heritage is the game of cricket, which is played in the local park. We would guess that the layout of the city in a grid is also a British thing. Sure reminded us of Fremantle in Australia, with a 1950’s feel about it.

 

It is also all about the water here. That is, the dozens of tiny islands with sandy beaches and coral reefs…..a paradise for snorkelers and divers. Many tours were offered pier side today, but the timing was off. Boats left at 8am, then came back by 6pm. Unfortunately, you would miss the ship as all aboard was 4:30pm. Checking the prices, booking these boat tours here were about ½ the price compared to the ship.

 

Speaking of excursions, there were 9 offered today. Trips to villages ran between 3 ½ to 4 hours and were from $100 to $145. Most included the ava ceremony, like it or not. Better trips were 5 adventure/water tours for 6 ½ to 7 hours. Most included an island lunch from $170 to $190. But the one that caught our eye was a trip to a mud spa at thermal mud pools. A kava ceremony there came with a warning. The drink, kava, is non-alcoholic BUT, it has a mild sedative or anesthetic effect and may cause stomach upset. The method of preparation does not meet HAL’s health and safety standards, so participate at your own risk. All of this for $150. No thanks………

 

We were here about two years ago, and found we wanted to stay in town instead of going boating. We did the same today. The Amsterdam docked in a working pier, where wood chips are manufactured. They are used for gardening as well as for cooking we heard. Sometimes when we dock in a port like this, you are not allowed to walk to the gate. There is usually too much harbor traffic with the cranes and the containers. We were not sure about this port, but we did remember that the department store, Jack’s, ran a shuttle bus to their store in town. After checking with Gene, we found out they were also running their buses again today, but not until after 10am.

 

So we had a nice dining room breakfast, then left the ship by 11am. Instead of a bus, there was a small van waiting to take some folks to town. So we were lucky to get the last seats for the short ride. Turned out, it was only a couple of miles to the center of town, but in this heat and humidity, we did not mind taking a ride for a change.

 

The drop off was at Jack’s, of course. This is the nicest and largest department store in the islands. We would check out this store later. Our destination was the marketplace, always the most active and interesting of local activity. This one did not disappoint us. It was bigger and better than the one in Suva, which happened to be closed yesterday. Half of the produce market was run by Fijians, while the other half was occupied by the Indians. All of their fruit and veggies were stacked in piles, called heaps. It was priced in Fijian dollars, which is about double the US dollar at the moment. Even doing the math, some products were expensive. Such as eggs. Two dozen were 11 Fiji dollars. We heard that even fresh chicken was 6 Fiji dollars a pound.

 

The fish market was kept separate by a glass enclosure. This made total sense, because it kept out the flies. We hesitated going in there, but it was the only way to see the catch of the day. It was a surprise to us that it was clean as a whistle and odor-free. Everything is sold daily, nothing is left for tomorrow. We saw barracuda, trevally, octopus, snapper, and other strange tropical fish.

 

Outside the market, we came across a food court near the bus station. Soda bottles had been recycled and filled with other juices. We guessed they were mango and papaya. Since it was nearing noontime, the food court was getting crowded.

 

Across the street was the Sugar City Mall, but not exactly the type we are used to seeing. It was a collection of small shops with parking down under. One of the shops happened to be a fabric store, which is a downfall for one of us. Promising just to look, there was a sale on their satin fabric. The only thing was they would not accept US dollars, and we did not want to use our credit card here. We could have exchanged some money on the ship, but we did not do it. So, the vendor suggested going to the local money changer in the Sugar City Mall. A guard let us in, as they control how many people go in at one time. For $20 US, we got 40 Fijian dollars. They made a few cents on the deal. The ship would have charged more, plus a 3% fee. Most times, we do this on the ship for convenience only. Anyway, three meters of fabric ended up costing a little over $13 US dollars. Now I just need the time to make perhaps a jacket for formal evenings.

 

Walking back to Jack’s, we ducked in and out of Indian shops, checking out the sarees and the jewelry. Sure reminded us of Mumbai, except the prices here were higher. Back at Jack’s, we went upstairs to see the entire floor was dedicated to the Indian clothing. Made us wonder, with such an industrial town, where do the local ladies wear these gorgeous sarees? Last time we were here, we got a mask and a cannibal fork. Gross, huh? So we did not need to buy another one today.

 

The bus arrived in 15 minutes, and we were back to the ship by 2pm. Had to check out the tables of treasures on the dock before going back inside. All the same stuff was there, except more expensive. A Polynesian dance began while we were looking at the souvenirs. So we watched the show of dancers before boarding.

 

The gangway was so steep, we had to pull ourselves up it. Those with walkers or wheelchairs needed help from the crew. It sure wasn’t that steep when we left in the morning.

 

Since the dining room was closed for lunch this afternoon, we ordered room service. Much to our delight, the Caesar salads were back on the menu…….the big shipment had arrived early this morning. Although romaine lettuce was not ready yet, iceberg was. That was fine with us. Bet everyone orders some kind of salad at dinner tonight.

 

Sail away was changed from the aft pool deck to the lower promenade deck. There was an announcement made, but we missed the reason why. It was windy by 5pm, but it was comfortable. The worst of the heat and humidity was gone by then. We went to the back pool anyway, and the serious photographers were also there. The promenade is fine, but with too many people on one side, you cannot get to the railing. This would have been a good port for the marching band performance like we saw yesterday. However, the best it got was watching the vendors take down their tables and displays.

 

The ropes were dropped, the tug was ready, and the pilot was in position as we sailed easily away from Lautoka. We are now headed for the small island of Dravuni. We stayed long enough to watch the sun go down by 6:13pm. This time, it was worth the wait.

 

There were six of us at dinner, where we all shared our experiences of the day. Our British friends did not attempt to go to town….it was just too hot for them. We agree, it was much hotter on the pier where the trinkets were being sold. Once you got into downtown, there was a breeze blowing down the cross streets. They probably would have been fine.

 

We ordered the cordon bleu, made with veal. Sure was good. Reports were positive for the arctic char, best ever. As always, Philip, the dining room manager, made his rounds among the tables, asking how we liked our meals. He actually sticks around long enough to get our answers. He promised there were more things to come with the new delivery today.

 

The ship seems to be rocking and rolling a little tonight, but that was due to our slower speed. The stabilizers were out, but they are not as effective unless we are going faster. Everyone remarked how smooth this trip has been, as we all kept our fingers that it stays that way.

 

Some of our tablemates were going to see the former police officer/turned comedian, Kevin Johnson, in the Queens Lounge after dinner. That might be a whole different type of humor we assume.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[WCB]

Report #31 Dravuni Island, Fiji October 25, 2016 Tuesday Sunny & 82 degrees Part #1 Of 3 85 Pictures

 

Have you ever heard of the Kadavu Island group of Fiji? Well, up until last year, we sure never did. A very small, and we small, island is part of that group and is called Dravuni Island. From tip to tip, this bit of land is under 2 miles long, and we guess not more than a mile wide. The one volcanic peak on the island offers views to kill for. The center has a village of about 200 people, many of them young children. Their housing is a step above what we found on Fanning Island, however, it is far from luxurious. It seems things have improved since our visit last year, because it appeared most folks have the new heavy duty plastic water catchers, possibly holding near to 1000 gallons of water. There must be a story of their existence here, but we would have to research this when we get home. They have to be subsidized by the mainland, but rely on tourism……specifically serious divers. These islands are situated in the Great Astrolabe Reef, something similar to the Great Barrier Reef off the Australian coast. It’s just a guess on our end, but we think the rudimentary facilities on this island provide a landing spot for the serious scuba divers and snorkelers.

 

The only way to gain access to Dravuni is by tender boat. We figured it would be best to go over as early as possible, like 8am, to take advantage of the cooler morning weather, and also to beat the crowd. Last year, we visited on a Sunday and everything was shut down. No souvenirs being sold, no massages, or no motor boat rides around the island. Today we would have a chance to pick up some authentic Dravuni treasures before they were sold out.

 

Four of us lucky President Club members met with our leader, Christel, who joined us on the first boat over. We squeezed in with the shore equipment which included not only lemonade and water, but a whole bunch of emergency medical stuff. In addition to that, they were bringing needed donations to the natives. Many times the ship will supply medical supplies and non-perishable food stuff. We are certain that all of it was well received.

 

We were the first to step on the pontoon onshore. Seldom can we say that, but today it was worth it. The scenery of the deserted beach with that deep white sand was priceless. The island lives up to its reputation of having pristine beaches and fine weather. It is a veritable tropical paradise, although small, it was more than big enough to handle the passengers from our ship.

 

The first stop was at the one vendor table that had nice t-shirts. Sizes were limited, and we probably bought the only white and black one in the right size. One Fiji pareo found its way into my bag too. This was our final chance to get Fiji treasures, and what a better place to spend your money than here.

 

Many other things were being set up, but we would come back here later. Our destination was summiting the island’s highest peak, well, at least one of us would do that. The trail began beyond the shoreside houses. It led us past their pig pens that were about hidden in the jungle. They are kept far enough away from their homes, so the flies are not pesty. From here, the trail begins to get steeper. We figured if it had been raining, it would be difficult to get a good foothold in the mud. Did we mention there are absolutely no vehicles on this island? No cars, no motorbikes. Kind of nice for a change.

 

Once we reached the first hilltop, the view of the ship in the bay was stunning. Doesn’t get better than this, so due to the difficulty of the hike, this was the best spot for one of us to stay behind. With the killer view and a wonderful breeze blowing over the ridge, the wait was a delight. What most folks don’t keep in mind, is that it can be much harder going downhill than it was going up. Bill continued up to the top to get a lot of photos, while I had fun greeting the hikers that eventually started the climb. Didn’t realize how many people we have come to know on this trip, as well as some of the regulars that go on this trip every year.

 

An hour later, we were back down to the water. Here we found several massage tents set up with ladies offering a total body massage for $10 USD, or a neck and shoulder massage for $5 USD. We heard the treatments were for 30 minutes. We are sure that the spa girls from the ship did not know this service was going to be offered on the island. The Greenhouse Spa had advertised a 15 minute massage at $1 a minute on shore. That would have been a direct insult to these natives, since they need the money even more. We never saw it set up, so hopefully, they cancelled it.

 

Gene, the cruise director, had planned beach games onshore at 1pm, but he had no takers. We heard later that he gave all of the game equipment to the school kids, who must have been thrilled.

 

Other items being sold were a little bit of island jewelry, flowered shirts for men, and a spice cake. Since we had skipped breakfast, the cake looked good. But we decided to wait until we got back to the ship, and have lunch in the dining room.

 

A group of Fijian men were sitting cross-legged under a thatched roof, serenading everyone as they exited the tender boat. We could hear the little kids in their shared classroom also singing with the help of their teacher. What a welcome.

 

We continued past the long length of the sand beach to the opposite end of the island. Recalling that we had seen a small cemetery, we found it buried in the palms and shrubs. Some of the graves sites were fairly new, although there was no way to tell how old these natives were when they died. Now what we found mysterious, were the quilted blankets on the cement stones, with bowls and glasses set on the top. Asking about this last year, we learned that the relatives come to eat a meal on the grave tops. Sharing a meal with a family member, so to speak. We did not linger long.

 

Following the almost hidden path, we made our way to the far end of the island. The shoreline was very rocky, volcanic in nature. Giant pieces of clam shells were present in the volcanic rocks. A whole shell must have weighed 10 pounds. No, we did not take one. If we had continued around the end of the island, we would have found another stretch of beach. A few people had made it over the rocks to this beach. We heard that the snorkeling here was fabulous, but you had to be careful of the coral beds off the surf.

 

We decided to go back the way we came, because getting back all the way around the backside might not have been doable. If the opposite beach ended at the bottom of the mountain, then the only way back was up a steep cliff-like trail. No thanks.

 

We left to go back around 11am in hopes of being able to get lunch in the dining room. We were in luck…not only were they opened, but one of the entrees was spaghetti and meatballs. Yeah, we know that is everyday food, but they sure do a good job with it. One of us was happy with the mozzarella hamburger and French fries. Plenty of ice ea cooled us off, as did the cold desserts of ice cream and a strawberry tart.

 

The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to photo sorting. By 4:30pm, it was time to attend another sail away. It had been re-located today on the lower promenade deck. Found out this morning that due to the drift of the stack’s exhaust at the aft pool, they decided to change to the promenade deck. We took our chances and went to the aft deck anyway. And it was fine. No soot, but no music, or appetizers. Like we really needed more food…..

 

The Amsterdam left the island by 5pm. Within minutes, the island disappeared as we headed out for a much appreciated day at sea. Our next port will be in Tonga.

 

Dinner was interesting. We had short ribs and oriental duck with fried noodles. Very different, but very good. Ice cream and frozen yogurt ended the meal nicely.

 

The entertainer this evening was a lady who is quite familiar to us…..Annie Frances, who is an internationally acclaimed, multi-award winning vocalist from Australia. She has appeared on many of our cruises, and the folks loved her voice.

 

By the way, the clocks were forward one hour tonight. Really do not like that.

 

Bill & Mary Ann

[easyboy]

Always enjoying your review, Thanks. Still following.