First time in Alaska

[Ultragirl26]

We're on the NCL Jewel 6/25/18 to Alaska for the first time, we are huge DIY and love to find the same tour off the ship cheaper fans! We've also been known to drive 3 hours (1 1/2 each way) on a road trip, just to eat at the birthplace of the hamburger, Louis Lunch Counter, so we like the off the beaten path stuff too. Therefore, I have a few questions:

 

Ketchikan: 7:00 - 4:00 Are there any known (easy to get to via foot) good places to see bears eating salmon? Any port really for this (at a safe distance, of course-LOL) A friend has already told me Ketchikan is a DIY port. $2 pp round trip bus to totem poles, any other good suggestions?

 

Juneau: 11:00 - 9:00 What is the difference between the "Blue" bus vs "White" bus to the Glacier? What is the cost of each? Are there whale watching excursions you can get at the port (think the Caribbean)? We have on the itinerary Mt Roberts Tram if views are good. Duck Fart shots are already on the menu...Anything else? Museums? Do you recommend renting a car?. We're traveling with another couple so that helps in splitting costs of car rental.

 

Skagway: 800 - 800 Already booked on the White Pass Railway, is there a better side of the train to sit on? We have about 3 hours after our tour, is there anything close by to do?

 

Seward: We're staying overnight and taking the train to Anchorage the next evening, is there a better side of the train to sit on? Are there off boat whale watching excursions? Any must do things?

 

Would love to know your favorite salmon restaurants, especially if it's a great deal, all ports!

 

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!

 

Best,

Terri

[sailingwithfriends]

I can answer a couple of your questions. When riding the train in Skagway, ride on the left side going into Canada and on the right side coming back into Skagway. You can also go outside on the observation deck to take photos. On the train ride from Seward to Anchorage, it is hard to pick which side. There are great views on both sides. When you are in Seward, try to take an excursion that takes you into the Kenia Peninsula. Great way to see marine life, including whales.

[SuperCrewBear]

We're on the NCL Jewel 6/25/18 to Alaska for the first time, we are huge DIY and love to find the same tour off the ship cheaper fans! We've also been known to drive 3 hours (1 1/2 each way) on a road trip, just to eat at the birthplace of the hamburger, Louis Lunch Counter, so we like the off the beaten path stuff too. Therefore, I have a few questions:

 

Ketchikan: 7:00 - 4:00 Are there any known (easy to get to via foot) good places to see bears eating salmon? Any port really for this (at a safe distance, of course-LOL) A friend has already told me Ketchikan is a DIY port. $2 pp round trip bus to totem poles, any other good suggestions?

 

Juneau: 11:00 - 9:00 What is the difference between the "Blue" bus vs "White" bus to the Glacier? What is the cost of each? Are there whale watching excursions you can get at the port (think the Caribbean)? We have on the itinerary Mt Roberts Tram if views are good. Duck Fart shots are already on the menu...Anything else? Museums? Do you recommend renting a car?. We're traveling with another couple so that helps in splitting costs of car rental.

 

Skagway: 800 - 800 Already booked on the White Pass Railway, is there a better side of the train to sit on? We have about 3 hours after our tour, is there anything close by to do?

 

Seward: We're staying overnight and taking the train to Anchorage the next evening, is there a better side of the train to sit on? Are there off boat whale watching excursions? Any must do things?

 

Would love to know your favorite salmon restaurants, especially if it's a great deal, all ports!

 

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!

 

Best,

Terri

 

I can only respond to a couple of your questions - I'm *NOT* an Alaska expert...

 

 

On the White Pass train are you taking a round trip? If so, you would probably want to sit on the left side on the way up the mountain and on the right side on the way back down. Otherwise you'll mostly be looking at a rock wall much of the time. The other suggestion I have is info I got from a local on my trip there: Take the train later in the day other than first thing in the morning. The reason is there is often low clouds/fog in the mornings so you won't have a very nice view from the train. Later in the day the fog & clouds will tend to burn off leaving better views.

 

Here's a pic I took heading towards Skagway from Fraser - I'm on the right side of the train - if you're on the left side there will be a lot of views of rock walls...

 

 

Looking towards the back of the train - I'm still on the right side of the train....

 

 

On the ride from Seward to Anchorage I'd probably want to sit on the left side of the train. The first part of the ride will be through forested areas but the last part before getting to Anchorage travels along the edge of the mountains and right near the water of the Turnagain Arm coast. That way you will have a clear view out over the water - you'll be able to see mountains (assuming it's not a cloudy/foggy day) across the water. I've not ridden the train from Seward to Anchorage but have driven the highway. I have no idea what kind of scenery you'll see before reaching the water view area. The train and highway run parallel and very near each other, hugging the coast line. The forested areas ARE beautiful though.

 

Here is a pic of the rail road tracks overlooking the Turnagain Arm coast - the left side of the pic is towards Seward, the right is towards Anchorage. I'm standing on the edge of the highway.

 

 

The non-coastal area looks something like this so at that point it probably wouldn't matter which side of the train you're on - taken just a few miles north of Seward. The tracks are only visible from the highway a few places.

 

[mexicobob]

In Ketchikan doubt if you can walk to see bears eating salmon. That being said, be advised that these bears will eat you if they are not full.

[Budget Queen]

Some answers above are not entirely accurate.

 

You are out of season for bears in Ketchikan. So no bear tours are available. Ketchikan city bus, is $2 one way

 

Sit on the LEFT side facing the front of the White Pass RR. leaving Skagway. IF round trip, you will be switching seats- unless you sit across from the bathroom. :)

 

Juneau- yes there are walk up whale watch tours- but don't compare Alaska with the Caribbean. :)

Don't expect big savings, and cheaper tours are some times going to be shorter. Longer means, "more". I am picky about my vendor as example. I also don't waste time in port trying to arrange tours. For Mendenhall shuttle buses, prices are similar between vendors. All do the same thing- transport you back and forth. Up to you- do you want to rent a car?

 

Seats are ASSIGNED on the Alaska RR, so no choice despite comments above. What I do, depending what side I'm assigned, I migrate depending where I am. I want the right side leaving Seward until Portage. Opportunities are in the vestibules or dome car. You do have a time limit in the dome car (adventure class) but, most of the time, I've ridden, not many are up there. I want the left side of the train after Portage. :)

 

There aren't any "whale watches" out of Seward, and it's Kenai fjords not the Kenai Peninsula. Boat tours are "necessary" for varied wildlife, and needing at least 6 hours on the water, If any interest in wildlife, . Not sure what you are referring to with the nonboat mention? You won't go on a boat tour?

 

For your bear watching. be certain to include Denali Park. Only one time there, I didn't see bears, well over 30 trips in. My min distance in is Eielson via shuttle bus, I don't consider less.

Edited April 1, 2018 by Budget Queen

[JT1962]

There is usually very little savings on independent vs ship tours in Alaska, unlike in the Caribbean. What you can find with independents is smaller groups, better service and potentially longer touring time.

 

For Whale watching in Juneau, try and book a smaller boat. Some take as few as 6 passengers. There are several good vendors suggested here and on Trip Advisor.

 

In Skagway, we enjoyed the bus / train combo to Emerald Lake using Chilkoot Tours. We saw much more than what the round-trip train ride will show you. We still had plenty of time to look around town when we returned.

 

In Seward, I recommend a Kenai Fjords Tour. The longer the better, but a minimum of the 6 hour tour as mentioned above.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[kathyemma]

 

For your bear watching. be certain to include Denali Park. Only one time there, I didn't see bears, well over 30 trips in. My min distance in is Eielson via shuttle bus, I don't consider less.

 

Budget Queen,

 

You have just given me hope. However, I am prepared for you to crush it right now. We will be going to Denali the first week of June. We are going in (I think) 66 miles. I would absolutely love to see a bear. But I have told myself I'll be there too soon. What do you think my chances are of seeing a bear in denali the first week of June?

 

Kathy

[AKStafford]

We will be going to Denali the first week of June. We are going in (I think) 66 miles. I would absolutely love to see a bear.

Are you using the shuttle bus at Denali or a "tour"? The shuttles go deeper into the park, have the same views and are much cheaper: https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/shuttles.htm

[travelinmoma]

We are planning to do one of these short hikes in Skagway after our train ride. We are going in late May/Early June. My dh is really worried about running into a bear on a hike. :)

https://skagwayshoretours.com/best-short-hikes-in-skagway/

http://www.alaska.org/assets/content/maps/Trail%20Maps/skagway-trail-guide.pdf

[kathyemma]

Are you using the shuttle bus at Denali or a "tour"? The shuttles go deeper into the park, have the same views and are much cheaper: https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/shuttles.htm

We are doing the full length tundra wilderness tour thru Hal on June 4th. Should we ditch them and take the shuttle?

Edited April 1, 2018 by kathyemma

[SuperCrewBear]

Budget Queen,

 

You have just given me hope. However, I am prepared for you to crush it right now. We will be going to Denali the first week of June. We are going in (I think) 66 miles. I would absolutely love to see a bear. But I have told myself I'll be there too soon. What do you think my chances are of seeing a bear in denali the first week of June?

 

Kathy

 

I won't crush your hopes...I like to always think positively. :) I took these pics in Denali on June 3, last year. Maybe we were only lucky and that nobody else sees bears so early...but we did. We stopped to watch them for several minutes.

 

 

We took the Tundra Wilderness tour. It was okay but next time we will take the shuttle bus. What I think would be better about the shuttle is being able to get off and on (FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND) as they come along at the different stops - you'll have more time to check out whatever is catching your eyes. When we stopped for restroom breaks or whatever we were kind of in a hurry each time.

 

On the other hand, our driver was very informative. I think he'd been driving the tour buses for 10-12 years. We had a great day in the wildlife sighting department - we saw bears, wolf, sheep, caribou, etc. plus were able to see a clear Denali - the driver said we'd hit the Denali Lottery that day. He also told us in all his years he'd only seen a wolf a hand full of times.

 

These are what the driver called Blonde Grizzlies. A mother and two cubs. We saw them on the way in and a few hours later on the way out.

 

 

 

 

 

[Budget Queen]

Budget Queen,

 

You have just given me hope. However, I am prepared for you to crush it right now. We will be going to Denali the first week of June. We are going in (I think) 66 miles. I would absolutely love to see a bear. But I have told myself I'll be there too soon. What do you think my chances are of seeing a bear in denali the first week of June?

 

Kathy

 

Since in another post, you state it's the TWT, it's mile 63 you are going to. Unfortunately you are missing Eielson, But, you have good chances of seeing bears. :) Be certain, to have a good pair of binoculars, I like 10/12 power, wide angle. Bears can be seen in Denali most of the "bus" season. :) Good luck.

[kathyemma]

Since in another post, you state it's the TWT, it's mile 63 you are going to. Unfortunately you are missing Eielson, But, you have good chances of seeing bears. :) Be certain, to have a good pair of binoculars, I like 10/12 power, wide angle. Bears can be seen in Denali most of the "bus" season. :) Good luck.

 

THANK YOU for giving me hope!!!! I love all types of wildlife and really hope I get to see bears. I am really torn about the tour. I love the idea of having a narrated tour but I also love the idea of going about it at my own pace.

 

Thank you!

 

Kathy

[Great Sky Girl]

My DH and I were there the May 30 and could only go 54 miles in, BUT we saw bears!! Three of them. We also saw all kinds of wildlife. It was wonderful! We had good weather, but Denali was covered that day. We got to see her from the train ride the next day though!

[Ultragirl26]

In Ketchikan doubt if you can walk to see bears eating salmon. That being said, be advised that these bears will eat you if they are not full.

 

 

LOL I hear ya!

[Ultragirl26]

I can only respond to a couple of your questions - I'm *NOT* an Alaska expert...

 

 

On the White Pass train are you taking a round trip? If so, you would probably want to sit on the left side on the way up the mountain and on the right side on the way back down. Otherwise you'll mostly be looking at a rock wall much of the time. The other suggestion I have is info I got from a local on my trip there: Take the train later in the day other than first thing in the morning. The reason is there is often low clouds/fog in the mornings so you won't have a very nice view from the train. Later in the day the fog & clouds will tend to burn off leaving better views.

 

Here's a pic I took heading towards Skagway from Fraser - I'm on the right side of the train - if you're on the left side there will be a lot of views of rock walls...

 

 

Looking towards the back of the train - I'm still on the right side of the train....

 

 

On the ride from Seward to Anchorage I'd probably want to sit on the left side of the train. The first part of the ride will be through forested areas but the last part before getting to Anchorage travels along the edge of the mountains and right near the water of the Turnagain Arm coast. That way you will have a clear view out over the water - you'll be able to see mountains (assuming it's not a cloudy/foggy day) across the water. I've not ridden the train from Seward to Anchorage but have driven the highway. I have no idea what kind of scenery you'll see before reaching the water view area. The train and highway run parallel and very near each other, hugging the coast line. The forested areas ARE beautiful though.

 

Here is a pic of the rail road tracks overlooking the Turnagain Arm coast - the left side of the pic is towards Seward, the right is towards Anchorage. I'm standing on the edge of the highway.

 

 

The non-coastal area looks something like this so at that point it probably wouldn't matter which side of the train you're on - taken just a few miles north of Seward. The tracks are only visible from the highway a few places.

 

 

 

Wow, thank you so much! Wonderful pictures you have captured! 86 days to go!!

[Ultragirl26]

Some answers above are not entirely accurate.

 

You are out of season for bears in Ketchikan. So no bear tours are available. Ketchikan city bus, is $2 one way

 

Sit on the LEFT side facing the front of the White Pass RR. leaving Skagway. IF round trip, you will be switching seats- unless you sit across from the bathroom. :)

 

Juneau- yes there are walk up whale watch tours- but don't compare Alaska with the Caribbean. :)

Don't expect big savings, and cheaper tours are some times going to be shorter. Longer means, "more". I am picky about my vendor as example. I also don't waste time in port trying to arrange tours. For Mendenhall shuttle buses, prices are similar between vendors. All do the same thing- transport you back and forth. Up to you- do you want to rent a car?

 

Seats are ASSIGNED on the Alaska RR, so no choice despite comments above. What I do, depending what side I'm assigned, I migrate depending where I am. I want the right side leaving Seward until Portage. Opportunities are in the vestibules or dome car. You do have a time limit in the dome car (adventure class) but, most of the time, I've ridden, not many are up there. I want the left side of the train after Portage. :)

 

There aren't any "whale watches" out of Seward, and it's Kenai fjords not the Kenai Peninsula. Boat tours are "necessary" for varied wildlife, and needing at least 6 hours on the water, If any interest in wildlife, . Not sure what you are referring to with the nonboat mention? You won't go on a boat tour?

 

For your bear watching. be certain to include Denali Park. Only one time there, I didn't see bears, well over 30 trips in. My min distance in is Eielson via shuttle bus, I don't consider less.

 

 

Thank you so much for the information.

[Crew News]

THANK YOU for giving me hope!!!! I love all types of wildlife and really hope I get to see bears. I am really torn about the tour. I love the idea of having a narrated tour but I also love the idea of going about it at my own pace.

 

Thank you!

 

Kathy

 

Wildlife spotting in Denali is up to the bus passengers as the driver is committed to driving on a very narrow road with few guard rails.

 

Passengers are encouraged to shout when they spot any wildlife and the bus driver will stop the bus. The TWT buses have super-zoom cameras with video monitors so the driver can focus on the animals and all passengers will get a good close-up view.

 

The TWT also provides a free snack box filled with crackers, cookies, dried fruit, cookies, and snack bars.

 

[JT1962]

THANK YOU for giving me hope!!!! I love all types of wildlife and really hope I get to see bears. I am really torn about the tour. I love the idea of having a narrated tour but I also love the idea of going about it at my own pace.

 

 

 

Thank you!

 

 

 

Kathy

 

 

Not sure which White Pass trip you are taking in Skagway, but we saw bears on our bus / train combo tour to Emerald Lake in May with Chilkoot Tours. We saw a black bear on the way to Emerald Lake and a cinnamon bear on the way back to Frayser to get on the train. Even in May the bears were out, so you should have a better chance in June, even though it is not prime season.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[SuperCrewBear]

Not sure which White Pass trip you are taking in Skagway, but we saw bears on our bus / train combo tour to Emerald Lake in May with Chilkoot Tours. We saw a black bear on the way to Emerald Lake and a cinnamon bear on the way back to Frayser to get on the train. Even in May the bears were out, so you should have a better chance in June, even though it is not prime season.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

 

I saw this bear on the highway between Fraser and Carcross in the 2nd week of May '16...even though I've been scolded for suggesting that it IS possible to see a bear so early. Regardless, here it WAS! ;p

 

 

And this one the 1st week of June '17...somewhere on the Kenai Peninsula...

 

 

What I would do is keep my eyes peeled! :D

[wolfie11]

June is not too early for bears in Denali. They are out of hibernation in April and ravenously hungry. Green up isn't until mid-May so they are often on the riverbeds looking for early grasses and sedges. By early June they are moving around as the grass and plants green up and can be seen on the hillsides. They are around all summer grazing on the hills and in August go for the berry patches. The best bet for bears is between Igloo Creek and Toklat. There is not an advantage to being able to get off the shuttle to see the animals better, as you will not be allowed off within a quarter mile of a wildlife sighting.

 

I have also seen bears on the Skagway train/bus trip. The first train out in the morning (Bennett Lake) has the best chance of seeing bears from the train as they seem to make themselves scarce when the trains start rolling through every 10-15 minutes. I have seen a couple of brown bears in the vicinity of Carcross from the bus and have seen black bears on the Skagway side of the pass eating dandelions by the side of the road. The highway is very busy and your bus or van won't be able to stop for very long on the side of the road for bear viewings.

[Budget Queen]

. Even in May the bears were out, so you should have a better chance in June, even though it is not prime season.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

 

't

No, sorry, wrong assumptions. Bears are commonly seeing early season in BC and Yukon, lower areas because of grasses and bears just coming out of hibernation. But, then they retreat to the higher elevations when it greens up and aren't seen lower nearly as frequently. I've had 100% sightings over the last 10+ years in May, no where near that later. With this poster going in June- still a good chance. :)

[Jmcdonald85]

I won't crush your hopes...I like to always think positively. :) I took these pics in Denali on June 3, last year. Maybe we were only lucky and that nobody else sees bears so early...but we did. We stopped to watch them for several minutes.

 

 

We took the Tundra Wilderness tour. It was okay but next time we will take the shuttle bus. What I think would be better about the shuttle is being able to get off and on (FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND) as they come along at the different stops - you'll have more time to check out whatever is catching your eyes. When we stopped for restroom breaks or whatever we were kind of in a hurry each time.

 

On the other hand, our driver was very informative. I think he'd been driving the tour buses for 10-12 years. We had a great day in the wildlife sighting department - we saw bears, wolf, sheep, caribou, etc. plus were able to see a clear Denali - the driver said we'd hit the Denali Lottery that day. He also told us in all his years he'd only seen a wolf a hand full of times.

 

These are what the driver called Blonde Grizzlies. A mother and two cubs. We saw them on the way in and a few hours later on the way out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

WOW!! what amazing photos! So close - may I please ask what lens did you use? I have a Nikon. We are off to Alaska in late June / early July 2019, Can't wait is an understatement!! :D

[kathyemma]

Duck Fart shots?? Do I even want to know what they are??

 

 

 

We're on the NCL Jewel 6/25/18 to Alaska for the first time, we are huge DIY and love to find the same tour off the ship cheaper fans! We've also been known to drive 3 hours (1 1/2 each way) on a road trip, just to eat at the birthplace of the hamburger, Louis Lunch Counter, so we like the off the beaten path stuff too. Therefore, I have a few questions:

 

Ketchikan: 7:00 - 4:00 Are there any known (easy to get to via foot) good places to see bears eating salmon? Any port really for this (at a safe distance, of course-LOL) A friend has already told me Ketchikan is a DIY port. $2 pp round trip bus to totem poles, any other good suggestions?

 

Juneau: 11:00 - 9:00 What is the difference between the "Blue" bus vs "White" bus to the Glacier? What is the cost of each? Are there whale watching excursions you can get at the port (think the Caribbean)? We have on the itinerary Mt Roberts Tram if views are good. Duck Fart shots are already on the menu...Anything else? Museums? Do you recommend renting a car?. We're traveling with another couple so that helps in splitting costs of car rental.

 

Skagway: 800 - 800 Already booked on the White Pass Railway, is there a better side of the train to sit on? We have about 3 hours after our tour, is there anything close by to do?

 

Seward: We're staying overnight and taking the train to Anchorage the next evening, is there a better side of the train to sit on? Are there off boat whale watching excursions? Any must do things?

 

Would love to know your favorite salmon restaurants, especially if it's a great deal, all ports!

 

Thank you in advance for any suggestions!

 

Best,

Terri