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Jim_Iain Apex Key West, TansAtlantic and British Isle with a Week in Amsterdam


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The Prison of Spike Island.   Only the walls know the stories of the Spike Island Prison

 

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While exploring the beauty of the Fort, I kept seeing what I thought were Bird Houses.   I stopped in the Canteen and Gift Shop to inquire about them.    I was surprised to find out they weren't Bird Houses but Fairy Houses...   They are part of an interactive  hunt for Children to learn about Spike Island while finding the Fairy Boxes on a Children's Map. 
 

Here are a couple favorites and some fun discoveries. 
 

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The wind is in your hair, the sea breeze is on your face, and you're gliding from pretty Cobh across the glistening waters of Cork harbour to your destination: the legendary Spike Island!

 

The history of Spike Island began over 1,300 years ago, when St Mochuda founded an early Christian monastery at the site. Despite the island being ravaged by Vikings in the 9th century, there are reports of a monastic settlement lasting here until the 16th century. Today, visitors can follow in the footsteps of the monks by embarking on their daily pilgrimage on the outer island walking trail.

 

Spike Island first became an island prison during the mid 1600s, when thousands of prisoners were kept here during the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland. This identity stuck, and the island would again become a prison during the Great Famine in 1847. In fact, at this time it was the largest known prison in the world! One can explore the chilling Punishment Block and "dark cells" from this troubled time.

Even in modern times, Spike Island remained a prison, only closing its prison gates for the last time in 2004. Tours take you around modern prison cells, as well as the dubiously named "Shivs and Shanks" exhibition!

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During the Irish War of Independence‚ the fort on Spike Island in County Cork was the largest British military run prison for republican prisoners and internees in the Martial Law area. During 1921‚ approximately 300 prisoners and 900 internees were imprisoned there. Most of the men were from the Martial Law area‚ Munster and counties Kilkenny and Wexford.

 

It was a sad time and some were tried for treason against the crown and tied to this chair and executed.


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Excellently curation. 

 

 

 

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We next took a stroll around the complete island.   The old village had been abandoned in 1985 after the Prison Revolt.   Ireland with it's mild temperatures from the Atlantic Current and the regular rains fosters growth of grasses, flowers and plant life is quickly reclaiming the ruins of the island.

 

Escaped in time for a wonder exploration of the island 

 

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Next up are many of the beautiful wild flowers of Spike Island.   The views from the island are breathtaking and we had a day where we barely bumped into another human.  We were rewarded by seeing all types of birds including a Heron (which took off before I could grab my phone).

 

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Prisoner Cemetary

 

Spike Island’s harsh conditions, poor medical care, and overcrowding led to an almost astronomical death rate, especially in the years during the famine when the prison first opened. The first prison ship docked at the island in October 1847 carrying 109 men. By the end of the year, two months later, seven of them were dead. That trend would get worse before it got better. Around 1,200 men and boys died on Spike Island throughout its three and a half decades as a prison. In its most deadly year, almost one prisoner was buried each day. The overwhelming majority of deaths occurred in the first seven years, when conditions within the prison were at their worst. “They weren’t trying to kill them,” says O’Donnabhain, “there were just way too many people there.” It was not until penal reforms in the 1850s reduced Spike Island’s prisoner population from 2,500 to 900 that the numbers of dead finally began to drop.

 

The main cause of prisoner death was disease, especially tuberculosis. Records kept by prison officials blame Spike Island’s cold, windy climate for the spread of the disease. But officials also expressed the opinion that there was not much they could do since the Irish were constitutionally vulnerable to disease—a notion at which O’Donnabhain balks. “There is a whole aspect of race that permeates throughout this place,” he says. “The Irish are not particularly susceptible to tuberculosis—people who are malnourished and living in overcrowded conditions are.”

 

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Time to start heading back to the Pier for our return to Cobh.   The Tickets entitle you to a time slot of 2 1/2 hours to insure space on the boat.


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We had plenty of time so also sat around in the warmth of the sun and did a little clowning around.

 

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As we return. This reminds me of the old Scottish tune 

 

You take the high road and I’ll take the low roars and I’ll get to the ship before you.  
 

Iain of course beat me me cause I was dawdling along filming the pub and just enjoying the end of an excellent day in Ireland.   Not to worry as we will be back for an overnight in about two weeks. The fun of B2B’s. You don’t have to be in a rush to do everything in a single port day. 
 


 

 

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8 minutes ago, hcat said:

flowers were lovely..but the prison seems haunted by restless souls..

 

It does.    The walls talk to you and you feel the pain, sorrow and joy of the Irish Alcatraz.

 

By the way...What are you doing up so early?     I got carried away trying to finish off this - Novel and just realized it was 10:30 - We have docked in Plymouth and Iain was still sacked out.   I guess even Retreat will be closed for breakfast.

 

Al Bacio here we come. 

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16 hours ago, jagoffee said:

Not necessarily strange, just different.  On our Apex one day, we had a lunch/dinner as late as possible at the Le Grand Bistro.  Sometimes we are not very hungry and cannot stop ourselves.

We haven’t been down there yet.  Unlike Edge unless changed when not open the pull a curtain across the entrance and you would never know anything was there. 

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16 hours ago, hcat said:

 

Unfortunately ,   a few days after final payment was made our dtr ( early 30's then) had a  breast cancer diagnosis. Obviously,  we cancelled it all to take care of her thru surgery, chemo, reconstruction, fertility dr   etc.   (our Travel Ins covered most...but no matter..had to be done)

 

while we missed out on  a great trip the happy news today is she is in her 40s, has a great husb she met a few days after the dx. .and 2 great  children conceived post cancer and chemo!  We Celebrate Every Day!

 

sorry to be so personal but it just all came out!

Not a problem.   I fully understand.  I know I shouldn’t say but my favorite daughter has survived 3 fatal disease and a BMT.  
 

I lived in double door isolation with her for 3 months.   As a miracle child I would give up everything and anything for her.  Even on the ship she calls me daily. 
 

My hats off to you,  Family First.  

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16 hours ago, kwokpot said:

I'd be interested to know if you've met anyone that went to Cork on their own and if it was worth the trek. I know the train station is right by the ship pier and it takes about 20 minutes to get there. In any event our Cobh stop in July is rather short at 11-5 so I don't think that's enough time to get to Cork and have enough time to see anything, but still I'm still curious if anyone on your TA did this. 
 


Stay tuned.   Haven’t spoken to any as most either took ships tours or explored Cobh. 
 

The British Isle cruise in a couple weeks we overnight in Cobh and planning a train to Cork on day one and a Tours by Local on day 2. 

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14 hours ago, Provence55always said:

I am delighted you got to visit Spike Island you really did it justice. I’m sure Spike Island will benefit from many more visitors after reading your glowing review. Your photos around the Island are excellent. 

Thank you and for future visitors you can buy your ticket on Spike Island site for the best 20 dollars you will ever spend. 
 

one of the most incredible day we had. 

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13 hours ago, yogini06 said:

We had an overnight stop here in 2019. On our first day in port we visited the Cobh heritage center. It’s at the port.  Great story of Irish emigration. On day 2, we took the train into Cork.  We went  to The English Market.

Its an indoor market with a cafe on the second floor. We had a delicious lunch!
 

Wow.  Will have to do that.   Years ago, maybe a decade,  we visited and don’t recall a cafe and indoor market. 

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9 hours ago, haynesra said:

Jim thanks for the info on Spike Island. We have nothing planned for day 2 of the overnight in Cobh and good to know it is much cheaper booking directly. Do you get to go thru the old prison or just a few areas? Thanks Richard

They have many building open but decided not to over do my epic post didn’t post.   Each told a story.   Including military vehicles. 
 

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12 hours ago, hawkesbaynz said:

Great photos of Cobh and Spike Island! What are your plans for the Portland stop? We often have weekends in that area but usually walk the South West Coastal path on the Jurassic Coast. Also Dorchester is a much nicer town than Weymouth.
 

Used to do a lot of diving out of Portland — strange place. I believe there are some decent walks though. Sure there will be some on the AllTrails walking App. 


 no plans.  Crazy day in port. Due to them sending lots of tour busses to London for the Coronation they have limited busses and handling all ships in port.   
 

We have a Dorset Tour private tour next time here and planning Swannery and Jurassic Coast.  Just received instructions on where they will meet us at the Castle so will go ashore this time on a reconnaissance visit.   
 

We may also get into Weymouth if busses aren’t too crowded. 
 

We are waiting until crowds disperse before leaving the ship.   

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This wasn’t the Daniel B chicken it has been all poultry dishes.   It  has to be chef.  Last night we had the Poussin - even though Sony talked to Chef.   It was so dry I couldn’t cut the meat off the drum stick. 
 

He was so apologetic we assured him it was not a reflection of him and suggest he have the chef try to eat it. 
 

no more poultry we give up on it on this ship.  Usually one of my favorites 

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10 hours ago, Poconolady said:

Jim_lain, back to the oatmeal. Have you tried the oatmeal in the Eden Cafe? They also have terrific cinnamon rolls, breakfast sandwiches and the absolute best brownies and choc. Chip cookies! Its not Luminee, but might be a change of pace after so many days of eating in the same place.

Will definitely give it a try 

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