Barely A Live from Escape May16-26 2024 Trieste (Venice) to Barcelona/10-Day Mediterranean: Italy Croatia Greece France Spain

Sugar Magnolia · June 1

11 hours ago, mking8288 said:

Did you mask up in the main cabin, we did ... our CC friends flew out of LHR back to JFK and they heard coughing all around them with a large # of rude, noisy & inconsiderate "comrades" in the main cabin - except they couldn't play MJ or card games in the air. Give your body a rest and load up some extra Vitamin C's.

No I did not mask up on the return but I usually mask up at the start of a trip. I try to let my body build up natural immunities when convenient. Still feeling healthy at the moment thankfully and definitely loading up on Cs.

Wonder if a MJ game has ever been tried on a regular commercial passenger transpacific flight.

11 hours ago, mking8288 said:

Well done on the Barely-a-live trip report ... still unfinished, and to be continued, LOL

So much pressure. But it's been fun.

Sugar Magnolia · June 1

On my last night in Barcelona, I mentioned to hotel reception that I was planning to check out of the hotel at 6:00am and asked if someone could assist me to bring my luggage down from the 4th floor to the 3rd floor elevator. Well, I really should have said 7:00am but sure enough, promptly at 6:00am someone was knocking on my door waiting to assist me. I was still in bed.

At 7:00am I sheepishly walked down to reception and asked for luggage assistance. Words were exchanged between the two staff members, I looked away, but the male staff member went upstairs to grab my luggage. I happily tipped him but he seemed startled.

I walked out of the hotel and across the Plaza to catch the Aerobus to the airport. I had already purchased a ticket at the ticket machine the day before to save time. Every time I passed by the bus station, there always seemed to be two or three buses waiting, and they seem to run every 10-15 minutes.

Since I was flying back home on United, I took the Aerobus to Terminal 1; there is a different Aerobus headed to Terminal 2. Someone at the bus station scans your ticket prior to boarding. There was plenty of space on the luggage racks. Though my flight departure was not until noon, I was concerned about morning traffic and Murphy's Law so I left extra early. Fortunately, traffic was minimal at that hour so I arrived at the airport by 7:40am. That's when I found out that my flight was delayed to 12:40pm, but I was in no rush to go anywhere so I just relaxed in the lounge and caught up on my fan mail.

I checked the departures board and found out that United check-in was at counters 705-714, clear across the other side of the terminal from where I was standing.

Since it was still early, the counters were not yet set up. United agents were still milling about and not all seated at their counters. There was already a line forming with about 80 passengers ahead of me, some on the 11:15am flight to IAD, some on the 12:00pm (now 12:40pm) flight to EWR. At around 8:00am the United agents huddled together in some secret meeting. Was this their first day on the job or was this something more sinister?

At exactly 8:10am the counters were opened and check-in started, about three hours before the 11:15am IAD flight.

By 8:20am I was checked in with boarding pass in hand. I scanned the pass at the machines to enter the secured area for security screening. We were not asked to take off shoes. After security you enter the mall-like area of the terminal, but don't let the shiny mall distract you...you still need to go through passport control before you can head to your gate.

After getting my passport stamped, likely for the last time for that book as I need to renew my passport, I went hunting for the lounge.

My Platinum AmEx benefits allow 4-hour access to the Sala VIP Miro Lounge in Terminal 1, which is more generous than the 2-hour access to the Premium Plaza Lounge at Heathrow Terminal 5. The offerings and setting are also better at Barcelona's Miro Lounge.

I thought I had scored when I was able to secure a private cubicle, but I quickly found out that there was no outlet to charge my electronics so I moved to a desk instead. But the cubicles are great for sleeping, as snoring was audible from great distances.

snorklinbarb · June 1

Loving your review! We stayed at Hotel Continental Palacete, must be near your H10 because we, too, found and loved that tapas place, Ciudad Contal. Went back like you did! Last cruise on Escape (both TA's 2022), I had no clue what to do in Barcelona, having been there many times.

Booked NCL's tour to Palau de Musica on SIL's suggestion and loved it, like you!

Following footsteps, where are you going next, lol. Can't believe I missed you on Prima.

You really brought me back with those baby squid. Not just the ones you ate but all the offerings in La Boqueria. OMG and only 6e. On Getaway in La Cucina I recently ordered them as an app but alas, only rings (or "hoops" as the waiter called them).

Thanks for the gorgeous photos and your incredibly fun writing style! * caveat, I know we're not supposed to comment on grammar or that sort of thing but man, you keep the narration flowing!

Sugar Magnolia · June 1

2 minutes ago, snorklinbarb said:

Loving your review! We stayed at Hotel Continental Palacete, must be near your H10 because we, too, found and loved that tapas place, Ciudad Contal. Went back like you did! Last cruise on Escape (both TA's 2022), I had no clue what to do in Barcelona, having been there many times.

Booked NCL's tour to Palau de Musica on SIL's suggestion and loved it, like you!

Following footsteps, where are you going next, lol. Can't believe I missed you on Prima.

You really brought me back with those baby squid. Not just the ones you ate but all the offerings in La Boqueria. OMG and only 6e. On Getaway in La Cucina I recently ordered them as an app but alas, only rings (or "hoops" as the waiter called them).

Thanks for the gorgeous photos and your incredibly fun writing style! * caveat, I know we're not supposed to comment on grammar or that sort of thing but man, you keep the narration flowing!

Thank you @snorklinbarb! You are very kind. Wish we had met on the Prima.

Rings are so boring…I need the little tentacles. 😂

No definitive plans yet but determined to sail on at least one TA this Fall. Hope to meet you on a future cruise.

Sugar Magnolia · June 2

Day 2 Split, Croatia - NCL Shore Excursion: Šibenik, Trogir & Split / 7.5 hours / $179

When I booked this excursion, I had a feeling that it sounded ambitious, trying to cover three different towns in 7.5 hours. The ride from the port in Split to Šibenik alone took an hour. While in Šibenik and Trogir, we only stopped to see the cathedral and the town square, the most important historical sites in each town. Our guide, Boris, admitted there was not enough time to explore more than that. Boris is a historian so he was very informative, but I could also feel his frustration wanting to cram 1000 years of facts into 7 hours, 6.5 hours if counting potty stops.

Croatia has a population of 3.8 million people with 900,000 living in the capital city of Zagreb. Eighty percent are Roman Catholic and the remaining 20% are Muslim, Jewish and other Christian sects like Orthodox, Protestant, etc.

Tourism is 20% of the nation's GDP, so times were tough during the COVID shutdown like the rest of the world. However, the economic impact was made worse due to inflation and Croatia's currency change from the kuna to the euro in 2023.

Croatia was always a part of a larger regional area, as outsiders always wanting to conquer this land along the Adriatic Sea. The Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Ottomans, French and the Austro-Hungarian Empire among others have all had their hands on this jewel. Then in the 20th Century and perhaps even before that, it becomes clear how the term "balkanization" derived, as the Balkan states, despite the differences in culture, religion and ethnicity, coalesced together to form Yugoslavia and then fall apart after Yugoslav leader Tito's death in 1980. Croatia was one of these states.

In the 1990s war broke out between Croatians wanting independence from Socialist Yugoslavia and the other parties, mostly Serbians loyal to the Yugoslav forces. Croatians referred to this conflict as the Homeland War, which ended in 1995.

Roman aqueduct constructed to bring water to Emperor Diocletian's palace in Split, first built in the 3rd-4th Centuries but since rebuilt and restored

Šibenik Cathedral of Saint James built in the 15th-16th Centuries and Town Square

Lions were a symbol of the Venetians.

George of Dalmatia, chief architect of the Šibenik Cathedral

Formerly Šibenik City Hall now a restaurant

Tour guide advised against drinking this wine

View of Trogir

Trogir Cathedral of Saint Lawrence and Town Square

Back in Split, we were treated to a delicious lunch of cauliflower soup, grilled chicken and panna cotta. The potatoes were particularly tasty. One glass of Croatian wine was complimentary. Restaurant was called Chops Grill.

Split Cathedral of Saint Domnius

The hexagon structure was built in 305 AD as the mausoleum for Roman Emperor Diocletian, who persecuted Christians. In the 7th Century, the mausoleum was consecrated as a church and named after Saint Domnius, the Bishop of Salona who was martyred during Diocletian's rule. The bell tower was constructed in 1100 AD.

One of the stranger things is this 3,000+ year old Sphinx sitting in the courtyard in front of the Cathedral which was likely brought back by Emperor Diocletian after his successful campaign in Egypt.

Also strange are these draconian rules to enter the Cathedral

This excursion included approximately three hours of walking and proved to be too much for some. It was also the day after embarkation day, so some people were still jet lagged. I know at least two people who opted to return to the ship by taxi after lunch, rather than continuing on with the walking tour of Split.

Split is a beautiful city and I would recommend just spending time here because there is enough to see and do for the day. It is a 15 minute walk from the ship to the city center. There are plenty of walking tours to join once you are in town.

Sugar Magnolia · June 2

After my Split excursion ended, I walked around town for a few more hours. The excursion did not include entrance to the Diocletian's Palace Cellar so I bought a ticket for €8 and it was well worth it.

The Cellar has been used for storage during Roman times, as living quarters when the Romans abandoned the palace, then as garbage and sewage pits, and as a concert and dance hall during modern times. Most recently, the Cellar was used in the Game of Thrones as the place where Daenerys Targaryen kept her dragons.

Dracarys!

Old Town Split

Almond gelato

Next time...

schmoopie17 · June 2

Lots of really cool pictures. Your developing bill at Fotomat must be outrageous.

pspercy · June 2

Wonderful review, thanks.

Quick question, does Escape have a crepe station in the buffet?

Thanks.

Sugar Magnolia · June 2

51 minutes ago, pspercy said:

Wonderful review, thanks.

Quick question, does Escape have a crepe station in the buffet?

Thanks.

There was definitely a crepe station during dinner time at the buffet on the Escape.

Sugar Magnolia · June 2

4 hours ago, schmoopie17 said:

Lots of really cool pictures. Your developing bill at Fotomat must be outrageous.

Actually they are all Polaroids. Some of them are still being held at Customs being reviewed by agents to insure I was not trafficking adult content.

graphicguy · June 2

39 minutes ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Actually they are all Polaroids. Some of them are still being held at Customs being reviewed by agents to insure I was not trafficking adult content.

WELL....what they don't know is that you're commiserating with the juveniles who post here.

Sugar Magnolia · June 2

Day 3 Dubrovnik, Croatia - NCL Shore Excursion: Ultimate Dubrovnik / 5.5 hours / $179

The good thing about this excursion is that it is a "smaller" group of 18-20 people on a minibus. However, the activity level as shown online is moderate to challenging and "involve a considerable amount of physical activity such as substantial walking over cobblestone streets, uneven or steep terrain, climbing stairs, or extended periods of standing. Not recommended for guests with physical limitations." Having done this excursion, I agree with this description. Unfortunately, there were members in my group who did have physical limitations and at least three people fell, though thankfully there were no serious injuries.

Though the activity level description is online, I wonder whether passengers are informed of such warnings when they book their excursions at the ShoreEx desk on the ship.

Our tour guide Ivana briefly talked about the Homeland War in the 1990s and how Dubrovnik was under siege by the Yugoslav People's Army for eight months. During these months, Dubrovnik was without water and electricity so many fled to Split by ferry.

Ivana also talked about how the COVID shutdown affected Croatia. She was grateful that the Croatian government gave her €530 a month while out of work, with help from the EU which Croatia joined as a member in 2013 and switched currency from the kuna to the euro in 2023.

First stop on the excursion was the seaside resort town of Cavtat on the Adriatic Sea, the number one honeymoon destination according to Ivana and a half hour drive from the port in Dubrovnik. Ferries also run between Dubrovnik Old Town Port and Cavtat. Restaurants and cafés line the pretty waterfront promenade. Cavtat can be a nice calming day excursion away from busy Dubrovnik with hiking trails and small rocky beaches...including one nude beach. On a longer visit I would walk up to the hilltop Mausoleum for a sweeping view of the town.

Next stop was taking the cable cars to the top of Mount Srd for a panoramic view of Old Town Dubrovnik. Also on top of Mount Srd is a large white stone cross and Fort Imperial, which houses a museum about the Homeland War.

The cable cars were built in 1969, destroyed during the Homeland War in the 1990s, then rebuilt in 2010. Unfortunately, it was a foggy morning so not ideal conditions for pics. Still, it is a beautiful old town with an impressive wall. It's no wonder that Game of Thrones used Dubrovnik to depict King's Landing.

Fort Imperial was built on top of Mount Srd by the French in 1810 during the Napoleonic Wars. They did not, however, erect that hideous communications tower.

As Ivana explained, Dubrovnik's Golden Age was during the 15th-16th centuries but ended when a devastating earthquake in 1667 killed thousands, followed by a tsunami that destroyed the port, flooding and fires that raged for 20 days. The "Pearl of the Adriatic" was rebuilt in a Baroque style with help from the Italians. The current city walls were built during the 13th-17th centuries and largely unaffected by the 1667 earthquake.

Before our walking tour of the old town, we took a break at Bar 202 for some wine, cheese and other local delicacies with a dreamy view of the harbor.

Sponza Palace was built in the 16th century and survived the 1667 earthquake.

Church of Saint Blaise

Dubrovnik Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

Carob and fig gelato

Cersei Lannister's Walk of Shame from Game of Thrones

Large Onofrio's Fountain was built in 1438 to celebrate the completion of Dubrovnik's water-supply system which started in 1436, bringing fresh drinking water from a spring 12 kilometers away. The water is still potable. The Small Onofrio's Fountain is located near the Bell Tower.

I enjoyed this excursion and would recommend it but with the understanding that there could be some challenges for those with mobility issues or physical limitations. Some areas in Old Town Dubrovnik are steep and slippery. There is also no getting around the crowds in Dubrovnik, so I did not stay behind to walk around after the excursion ended.

It is about 1.5 miles from the port to Dubrovnik city center. You can purchase a $20 shuttle bus ticket from NCL Guest Services, Shore Excursion Desk or on the pier ashore.

On my next visit, I plan to arrive early to avoid the crowds, explore Old Town for a few hours, and then take the ferry to Lokrum Island where I visited a few years ago. The Benedictine monks, who inhabited the Island since the 11th century but were expelled from the Island in the 18th century, placed a curse on anyone who claimed the Island for his/her own pleasure. Subsequently, many who were connected to or had any dealings related to the Island either met an untimely unnatural death or suffered from financial ruin.

On Lokrum Island you can visit the ruins of the 12th-13th Century basilica and the 15th Century monastery; hike to Fort Royal for great views of Dubrovnik; float in Lokrum's "Dead Sea"...a small salt lake; or swim in the sea. There are cafés on the Island where peacocks roam around looking for scraps. The peacocks were brought over from the Canary Islands by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg, an owner of Lokrum who was later killed in Mexico, one of the many alleged victims of the Benedictine curse.

The Cursed Island of Lokrum

Edited June 2 by Sugar Magnolia

ontheweb · June 3

2 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Day 3 Dubrovnik, Croatia - NCL Shore Excursion: Ultimate Dubrovnik / 5.5 hours / $179

The good thing about this excursion is that it is a "smaller" group of 18-20 people on a minibus. However, the activity level as shown online is moderate to challenging and "involve a considerable amount of physical activity such as substantial walking over cobblestone streets, uneven or steep terrain, climbing stairs, or extended periods of standing. Not recommended for guests with physical limitations." Having done this excursion, I agree with this description. Unfortunately, there were members in my group who did have physical limitations and at least three people fell, though thankfully there were no serious injuries.

Though the activity level description is online, I wonder whether passengers are informed of such warnings when they book their excursions at the ShoreEx desk on the ship.

Our tour guide Ivana briefly talked about the Homeland War in the 1990s and how Dubrovnik was under siege by the Yugoslav People's Army for eight months. During these months, Dubrovnik was without water and electricity so many fled to Split by ferry.

Ivana also talked about how the COVID shutdown affected Croatia. She was grateful that the Croatian government gave her €530 a month while out of work, with help from the EU which Croatia joined as a member in 2013 and switched currency from the kuna to the euro in 2023.

First stop on the excursion was the seaside resort town of Cavtat on the Adriatic Sea, the number one honeymoon destination according to Ivana and a half hour drive from the port in Dubrovnik. Ferries also run between Dubrovnik Old Town Port and Cavtat. Restaurants and cafés line the pretty waterfront promenade. Cavtat can be a nice calming day excursion away from busy Dubrovnik with hiking trails and small rocky beaches...including one nude beach. On a longer visit I would walk up to the hilltop Mausoleum for a sweeping view of the town.

Next stop was taking the cable cars to the top of Mount Srd for a panoramic view of Old Town Dubrovnik. Also on top of Mount Srd is a large white stone cross and Fort Imperial, which houses a museum about the Homeland War.

The cable cars were built in 1969, destroyed during the Homeland War in the 1990s, then rebuilt in 2010. Unfortunately, it was a foggy morning so not ideal conditions for pics. Still, it is a beautiful old town with an impressive wall. It's no wonder that Game of Thrones used Dubrovnik to depict King's Landing.

Fort Imperial was built on top of Mount Srd by the French in 1810 during the Napoleonic Wars. They did not, however, erect that hideous communications tower.

As Ivana explained, Dubrovnik's Golden Age was during the 15th-16th centuries but ended when a devastating earthquake in 1667 killed thousands, followed by a tsunami that destroyed the port, flooding and fires that raged for 20 days. The "Pearl of the Adriatic" was rebuilt in a Baroque style with help from the Italians. The current city walls were built during the 13th-17th centuries and largely unaffected by the 1667 earthquake.

Before our walking tour of the old town, we took a break at Bar 202 for some wine, cheese and other local delicacies with a dreamy view of the harbor.

Sponza Palace was built in the 16th century and survived the 1667 earthquake.

Church of Saint Blaise

Dubrovnik Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary

Carob and fig gelato

Cersei Lannister's Walk of Shame from Game of Thrones

Large Onofrio's Fountain was built in 1438 to celebrate the completion of Dubrovnik's water-supply system which started in 1436, bringing fresh drinking water from a spring 12 kilometers away. The water is still potable. The Small Onofrio's Fountain is located near the Bell Tower.

I enjoyed this excursion and would recommend it but with the understanding that there could be some challenges for those with mobility issues or physical limitations. Some areas in Old Town Dubrovnik are steep and slippery. There is also no getting around the crowds in Dubrovnik, so I did not stay behind to walk around after the excursion ended.

It is about 1.5 miles from the port to Dubrovnik city center. You can purchase a $20 shuttle bus ticket from NCL Guest Services, Shore Excursion Desk or on the pier ashore.

On my next visit, I plan to arrive early to avoid the crowds, explore Old Town for a few hours, and then take the ferry to Lokrum Island where I visited a few years ago. The Benedictine monks, who inhabited the Island since the 11th century but were expelled from the Island in the 18th century, placed a curse on anyone who claimed the Island for his/her own pleasure. Subsequently, many who were connected to or had any dealings related to the Island either met an untimely unnatural death or suffered from financial ruin.

On Lokrum Island you can visit the ruins of the 12th-13th Century basilica and the 15th Century monastery; hike to Fort Royal for great views of Dubrovnik; float in Lokrum's "Dead Sea"...a small salt lake; or swim in the sea. There are cafés on the Island where peacocks roam around looking for scraps. The peacocks were brought over from the Canary Islands by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Habsburg, an owner of Lokrum who was later killed in Mexico, one of the many alleged victims of the Benedictine curse.

The Cursed Island of Lokrum

No pictures of the nude beach! Or are those the pictures that got you in trouble with immigration? 😉

Sugar Magnolia · June 3

Day 4 Corfu, Greece - NCL Shore Excursion: Ultimate Corfu / 6 hours / $199

I did not know what to expect on this excursion except that we would see Mouse Island. And the only thing I knew about Mouse Island was that it had nothing to do with Disney. It was another small group tour so I was glad about that.

Corfu is one of the seven major Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. The Island is so close to Albania that our tour guide Helen warned us that our cellular service might think we are in Albania.

Some of the scenes from the James Bond movie "For Your Eyes Only" were shot in Corfu. The most well-know resident of Corfu in modern times was Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II's husband. He was born in the 19th century villa Mon Repos, our first stop on the tour.

Mon Repos

Paleopolis Archeological Site

5th Century Christian Basilica

Next was a photo stop to capture this shot of Pontikonissi (or Mouse Island) and the Vlacherna Monastery. I was disappointed that we did not visit either sites. The Pontikonissi is alleged to be shaped like a mouse when viewed from afar.

Old Town Corfu

Lunch was at the seaside resort town of Paleokastritsa. We were served a salad with pita bread and Greek spread; fish stew in a tomato sauce; and Greek yogurt with honey. The Greek spread and yogurt were the best. The setting and scenery were spectacular.

The Old Fortress was first built in the 11th century under Byzantine rule which the Venetians later improved upon.

The New Fortress was constructed by the Venetians in the 16th century.

The excursion did not include entrance into the two fortresses so they will be on the top of my list should I return to Corfu.

Edited June 3 by Sugar Magnolia

ontheweb · June 3

4 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Day 4 Corfu, Greece - NCL Shore Excursion: Ultimate Corfu / 6 hours / $199

I did not know what to expect on this excursion except that we would see Mouse Island. And the only thing I knew about Mouse Island was that it had nothing to do with Disney. It was another small group tour so I was glad about that.

Corfu is one of the seven major Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. The Island is so close to Albania that our tour guide Helen warned us that our cellular service might think we are in Albania.

Some of the scenes from the James Bond movie "For Your Eyes Only" were shot in Corfu. The most well-know resident of Corfu in modern times was Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II's husband. He was born in the 19th century villa Mon Repos, our first stop on the tour.

Mon Repos

Paleopolis Archeological Site

5th Century Christian Basilica

Next was a photo stop to capture this shot of Pontikonissi (or Mouse Island) and the Vlacherna Monastery. I was disappointed that we did not visit either sites. The Pontikonissi is alleged to be shaped like a mouse when viewed from afar.

Old Town Corfu

Lunch was at the seaside resort town of Paleokastritsa. We were served a salad with pita bread and Greek spread; fish stew in a tomato sauce; and Greek yogurt with honey. The Greek spread and yogurt were the best. The setting and scenery were spectacular.

The Old Fortress was first built in the 11th century under Byzantine rule which the Venetians later improved upon.

The New Fortress was constructed by the Venetians in the 16th century.

The excursion did not include entrance into the two fortresses so they will be on the top of my list should I return to Corfu.

We did Corfu on our own. I'm sure we went to museums and saw Greek artifacts. That sort of got tiring for me and all the islands sort of rolled into one, but DW never tires of museums. The one real lasting memory I have of Corfu was that DW had asked the cruise director if there was a public beach, and was told no, only a private one at some resort. We did find one. They charged 1 Euro, but it could be more now as that was in 2009. We did let the cruise director know where it was so if asked he could inform future passengers.

The one island's adventure I distinctly remember was Santorini. Did you go there on this cruise?

cruiseny4life · June 3

On 6/1/2024 at 12:50 AM, Sugar Magnolia said:

I just noticed that the pics from my previous post seem to be missing so I am reposting the entire entry and hopefully with the pics this time.

Catalunya Plaza or Plaça de Catalunya is at the heart of Barcelona. The major thoroughfares such as La Rambla and Passeig de Gràcia run through the Plaza. It is a transport hub where you can catch the Aerobus to the airport as well as the Hop On Hop Off buses. You can easily catch a taxi at the taxi ranks around the Plaza. Numerous metro lines and city buses either terminate or stop at Catalunya Plaza. From there you can easily access any part of the city.

In front of my H10 hotel slightly to the right is a taxi rank. The HOHO buses are also nearby. Unfortunately, those red bicycles you see are only available to residents.

Also in front my hotel slightly to the left is the Metro station.

On the other side of the Plaza is El Corte Inglés, Spain's famous department store which first opened in Madrid. I did not have a chance to visit this time as shopping was not high on my list, but will take a gander on my next visit. There is a rooftop restaurant which provides a nice view of the Plaza.

Right in front of El Corte Inglés is the Aerobus to the airport. You can buy tickets online, on the app or at the ticket machines at the bus stop. One way fare is €7.25. One bus goes to Terminal 1 and one bus goes to Terminal 2. Bus ride is approximately 35 minutes without traffic with a few other pickup stops in the city along the way.

Thank you for the throwback memories!! It's such a delightful plaza. I spent some time there each evening and morning taking in the crowd (and protests) and then the quiet. It's such a different place at 5 AM compared to 11 PM!!

aussierangers · June 3

Thank you so much for all these fantastic photos! We went to Corfu on our previous Med cruise (back in 2019); we spent most of our time on the causeway at Kanoni, watching the jets coming in to land seemingly right above our heads. Quite the adrenaline rush. We did go across to Vacherna but werent able to go inside. We didn't have time for the Old Fortress, so like you, its top of the list for the Viva cruise in August. We will also visit Dubrovnik and Split; your photos just make me even more excited about both of them.

aussierangers · June 3

Plus now I know where to go to get the best gelato in every port 🍦

cruiseny4life · June 3

6 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Day 4 Corfu, Greece - NCL Shore Excursion: Ultimate Corfu / 6 hours / $199

Corfu is one of the seven major Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. The Island is so close to Albania that our tour guide Helen warned us that our cellular service might think we are in Albania.

Paleopolis Archeological Site

5th Century Christian Basilica

Lunch was at the seaside resort town of Paleokastritsa. We were served a salad with pita bread and Greek spread; fish stew in a tomato sauce; and Greek yogurt with honey. The Greek spread and yogurt were the best. The setting and scenery were spectacular.

The Old Fortress was first built in the 11th century under Byzantine rule which the Venetians later improved upon.

The New Fortress was constructed by the Venetians in the 16th century.

What a fantastic excursion! Mainly the lunch. Well, really the view. It's on my list of places to visit if I ever get to that part of the world. It's not super high on my list as it seems (from experience and your excursions) that mostly what is done in Europe is tour old churches. I'm not into that. Seeing Mouse Island, especially if I could be there, sounds great. Still, I'm loving reading through these excursions. Thank you for sharing such wonderful experiences with detail. I'm not there. But I could be.

Those old-timey streets in cobblestone look heavenly. When I was in Barcelona, I was like a kid wandering the narrow streets. Those didn't look nearly as interesting as the ones you photographed. And, ruins of a basilica? That's cool! I enjoy the old walls and stone and thinking of who put them together. And who wandered the hallways when they were built. It's why I loved the underground Roman ruins in Barcelona.

Anyway, I really appreciate all the detail and time you're putting into this review. Huge thanks from overcast and humid Central New York!!

Sugar Magnolia · June 3

2 hours ago, ontheweb said:

The one island's adventure I distinctly remember was Santorini. Did you go there on this cruise?

Santorini was not on this itinerary but I have visited that island in the past.

Sugar Magnolia · June 3

1 hour ago, cruiseny4life said:

Thank you for the throwback memories!! It's such a delightful plaza. I spent some time there each evening and morning taking in the crowd (and protests) and then the quiet. It's such a different place at 5 AM compared to 11 PM!!

I do love the plazas in Europe. I don't have that same feeling about the "plazas" in Manhattan. 😅

I did see a few protests in Barcelona (much to the ire of one tour guide) but missed the big one by taxi drivers as I was in Girona for the day. My hotel left a note in the room warning about that protest happening in front of the hotel, but the note was in Catalan so...yay Google translate.

53 minutes ago, cruiseny4life said:

It's not super high on my list as it seems (from experience and your excursions) that mostly what is done in Europe is tour old churches. I'm not into that.

Yes, I can relate. In Far East and South East Asia there are temples and in North Africa, the Middle East and the Near East there are mosques. I can appreciate the love, care and devotion that was poured into building these beautiful structures, as they are so important to the people, their culture and every day lives. Same holds true for the churches in Europe. Every city, town or village proudly has at least one church or cathedral that is central in their lives, so at least one church stop is inevitable on virtually any city tour in Europe. I do try to appreciate the architecture and stories behind the building of the churches.

1 hour ago, cruiseny4life said:

Those old-timey streets in cobblestone look heavenly. When I was in Barcelona, I was like a kid wandering the narrow streets. Those didn't look nearly as interesting as the ones you photographed. And, ruins of a basilica? That's cool! I enjoy the old walls and stone and thinking of who put them together. And who wandered the hallways when they were built. It's why I loved the underground Roman ruins in Barcelona.

There are plenty of ruins in Europe for you to explore without having to stop at a church. Most of Europe is easy to explore on your own. I am certain you guys can do this.

My favorite Greek/Roman ruins are at Ephesus in Turkey and the Neolithic ruins are on the Orkney Islands in Scotland.

ontheweb · June 3

2 hours ago, Sugar Magnolia said:

Santorini was not on this itinerary but I have visited that island in the past.

We climbed up, and if we ever get back there are not going to do that again! Though we would also not do the donkey rides to get up.

We got lost big time! We stumbled on a museum in a cave, and DW being an art teacher (now retired) basically never passes up a museum. There were 5 of us, a guide, a Greek couple, and us, lost American tourists. The guide did his narration in both Greek and English.

Afterwards we showed him our map from the cruise line (HAL) and asked where we were. He laughed and said we were off the map. He then asked if we had rented a car, and when we said no, he offered to get us a cab. Cabs passed by on the way to the airport, but he could not get us one. He then showed us a shortcut to get back to the area shown on the map.

Rick Steves says be a traveler, not a tourist. That was definitely a time stumbling onto that museum while lost that I felt like a traveler.

Sugar Magnolia · June 4

Day 5 Messina, Sicily, Italy - NCL Shore Excursion: Savoca & Forza d'Agrò: The Godfather Tour / 5 hours / $139

When the NCL Spirit ported in Messina back in 2018, I booked the shore excursion to Taormina and Castelmola and enjoyed it.

This time I booked The Godfather Tour. It is a little known fact that I am a huge fan of Francis Ford Coppola’s The Godfather Part I and Part II and I try in vain to watch Part III.

I was expecting the tour guide to provide details and insight into the filming of the movies but unfortunately that was not the case. I might have expected too much from a local tour guide who normally leads general tours around the area. The movie is over 50 years old so maybe the townsfolk who were around during the filmings have either moved away from the villages or moved on from this life. I later found out that there was a Small Group Tour offered by NCL for this same excursion so perhaps they had a better experience. And, there are private excursions I could have checked out.

Despite the disappointment, it was a thrilling ride up the mountains through switchbacks, a harrowing experience for some fellow passengers on the coach. I enjoyed visiting the town of "Corleone," or for our purposes, the Villages of Savoca and Forza d'Agrò, and walking through the countryside.

We first headed to the Village of Savoca which is 330 meters above the Ionian Sea and almost a one-hour from the Port of Messina.

Our first stop was to see the mummies at the 17th century Capuchin Convent. Yes, you read that correctly...mummies. The mummified remains were members of the clergy and aristocracy who lived in the 18th and 19th centuries. I don't think I am exaggerating when I say that everyone on my coach was creeped out by that experience. And I don't think those clergymen and aristocrats knew that a bunch of tourists would be gawking at them.

Sorry no mummy pics. I would rather look at this.

I see several OSHA violations

Here we ascend toward the Church of San Nicolò, the scene of Michael Corleone and Apollonia Vitelli's wedding. The church was orginially built in the 13th century and restored in the 15th, 18th and 20th centuries.

The walk back down from the church was just as exciting.

Then off to Bar Vitelli where a young Michael Corleone, having fled from his enemies back in New York to hide out in Sicily, met Signor Vitelli and asks for his daughter’s hand in marriage.

Lemon granita from Bar Vitelli topped off the visit to Savoca.

Dedication to Francis Ford Coppola

A final look at the Church of San Nicolò

On our drive toward the Village of Forza d'Agrò through more switchbacks, we got a great view of the coastal village of Sant'Alessio Siculo.

We also passed by one of its landmarks...Castello di Sant'Alessio Siculo which was built by the Byzantine Emperor Alexios I Comnenos in the 11th century. Unfortunately, the castle is not open to the public.

After a 25 minute drive from Savoca we reach the Village of Forza d’Agro to visit the Church of Santa Maria Annunziata end Assunta where a young Vito Andolini (aka Vito Corleone, the Godfather) was placed in a basket carried by a donkey and smuggled out of Sicily to America. The church was first built in the 15th century and rebuilt in the 18th century.

Scenes from The Godfather III were filmed at the Church of the Holy Trinity.

Arco Durazzesco - 15th Century Catalan Gothic Arch

Church of the Holy Trinity

I topped off my visit to Forza d'Agrò with some hearty crunchy grissini and the most scrumptious pillowy pistachio creme-filled cookies. I don't know how I went through life without these little green pieces of heaven.

I tried to stay awake for the drive back to the port along the scenic Ionian coast.

schmoopie17 · June 4

I have been a Godfather twice.

Like you, I'm still waiting for Godfather lll.

Sugar Magnolia · June 5

Day 6 Naples, Italy - Small Group Private Excursion to Positano, Amalfi and Ravello with Di Sarno Car Service / 8 hours / $90

Some of the most popular excursions from Naples are to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius and for good reasons; along with the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill in Rome they are all ancient sites of historical significance in this part of the world. Since I have been to these places, some more than once, I felt no need to visit again and usually opt to visit the Amalfi Coast when porting in Naples.

Through the GetYourGuide app/website, I booked a small group excursion to visit the coastal towns of Positano, Amalfi and Ravello. Sorrento, Capri and Anacapri are also popular but Ravello is my favorite. Di Sarno Car Service was listed as the tour operator for this excursion so I did some quick research and found out that they have been in business for a long time and received good reviews. The other tour operator I noticed doing pickups at the port was WorldTours.

I appreciate that when booking through online agents like GetYourGuide or Viator, you usually do not need to pay for the excursion until two or three days prior and often cancelable within 24 hours of the excursion.

There have been numerous discussions about whether it is prudent to book non-NCL excursions, to which I reply...do your own thorough research and make your own decisions based on your own preference, priorities and comfort level. It is a simple fact that NCL cannot offer enough excursions to 4,000+ passengers, so many of us will need to book private excursions. Also, there have been many less than glowing reviews from my fellow passengers of the shore excursion operations. One of many complaints was about excursions canceling or changing at the last minute for Rome and Barcelona. I, myself, am not a fan of large coach tours offered by NCL.

When I booked this non-NCL excursion, I knew that there was always a possibility that I might not be able to return to the ship at the all aboard time for reasons beyond anyone's control. However, I did my research and found out that the tour operator was reputable, Naples is not far from our next port (Civitavecchia/Rome) with plenty of travel options in case I have to make my own way, and I always carry money, credit cards and passport because I travel solo and rely on myself when things go wrong. I understand that this path may go beyond the comfort level for others, but I know I am as well-prepared as I can be to deal with any unforeseen consequences. And I am insured to the hilt.

I shall now step down from my soapbox.

The Naples Marine Terminal is one of the more interesting port terminals I have visited...certainly more impressive than, say, the Manhattan Cruise Terminal. Built in the 1930s during the Mussolini fascist regime, the terminal reminds me of those massive older buildings in Beijing that appear to be devoid of any living beings because they are so big.

The private excursion operators are all waiting in the area as soon as you walk through this structure.

Ferries and hydrofoils are nearby for excursions to other coastal towns.

Castel Nuovo but seems old to me...built in the 13th century and rebuilt in the 15th century.

I met our tour guide Luigi at the designated area right outside the terminal exit along with 15 other travelers. Only four others were cruisers like me. It makes sense to keep the groups small as I can't imagine a large coach maneuvering through the small towns along the Amalfi Coast. We piled into a comfortable Mercedes minivan and started our journey by 8:00am.

Our first stop was Positano but there were many interesting sights along the way.

Fincantieri, the ship builders for the Prima, Viva and Aqua has a location here, though the actual shipyard for those ships is located closer to Venice. I should have kept my antennae up for the Aqua when I was in the area a few weeks ago.

Town of Vico Equense

Luigi said that La Villetta Paradiso is known to be the most romantic place to propose marriage. I did not ask whether those marriages are known to last.

Seiano Train Station

Town of Meta

Positano is a popular seaside resort known for its vertical town and pebble beach. We spent one hour here.

Le Sirenuse is a luxury hotel in Positano I was fortunate enough to visit many years ago when it was still affordable. Now I can only steal glimpses from afar.

Town of Praiano

Sophia Loren's former home in Conca Dei Marini

The Town of Amalfi was the busiest of the three towns we visited. We spent two hours here. We were hoping to take a 45-minute boat ride for a different view of the Amalfi Coast, but unfortunately the water was too rough to sail.

Lunch was a giant hero sandwich with grilled octopus and potatoes. I did not think I could finish it but it was delicious so I managed. At €10 I thought it was a typical tourist lunch price. Most people ordered the popular cone of mixed fried seafood but I was not in the mood for anything fried.

And to top off the visit to Amalfi...pistachio gelato

Ravello was a welcomed respite after the hustle and bustle of Amalfi. Set 365 meters above the Tyrrhenian Sea, Ravello is a resort town best known for its music festival in the summer.

We were back at the Naples Marine Terminal before 5:30 with more than an hour to spare before all aboard time at 6:30. It was another long day but I was happy to be back for another visit to the Amalfi Coast. Arrivederci!

Barely A Live from Escape May16-26 2024 Trieste (Venice) to Barcelona/10-Day Mediterranean: Italy Croatia Greece France Spain

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