Live from the Noordam - Transatlantic - NY to Rome

[barante]

Jonathan -- To answer your question I retired from a 35-year newspaper career during which I was a reporter, foreign correspondent in South Africa and the Soviet Union, and an editorial writer.

I am currently finishing a real estate history that deals with race, class and antisemitism.

[cruiserking]

Barcelona

 

After completing our previous evening’s tandem sail with the Costa Victoria, the ms Noordam led a silent convoy as the two liners arrived at the Port Vell Harbor Complex in Barcelona, Spain.

 

After completing a dual swiveling maneuver with the precision of an aquatic ballet, the two colossal cruise ships gently slipped into their respective berths alongside the pier.

 

By 9:00 am, following a brisk Lido breakfast, we hailed a taxi and were speeding through the barren streets of Barcelona. It was the first bonafide sun drenched day we’d experienced, it would be the last time we saw blue skies until nearly the end of our day in Florence, Italy. At this early morning hour the city was our oyster and we were heading for its artistic pearl, Antoni Gaudi’s masterpiece the Sagrada de Familia.

 

This incredible, towering cathedral is a visual feast with its plethora of whimsical flourishes and creatures cavorting upon its turrets and walls. Like an architectural version of a painting by Hirschfeld, instead of hidden ‘Nina’s’ we find, turtles, lizards, butterflies and other surprises playfully sculpted in this enchanted building. Gaudi was inspired by nature and it’s easy to see.

 

The church has been a work in progress since 1882 and is expected to be completed in 2026. Gaudi spent the last fifteen years of his life devoted solely to its design. On the subject of the church’s lengthy construction the artist is alleged to have said “My client is not in a hurry.”

 

The arrival of a brigade of tour buses was our cue to move on. We would continue our focus on Gaudi by setting our sights on Casa Milla. We hung a left turn at Carrer de Provenca and followed it for around eleven blocks until we arrived at our destination. It seemed odd at first strolling along these city blocks that might very well have been side streets in New York. It was as if perhaps we had never left home but instead entered a bend in time or some sort of alter reality.

 

It was my desire to seek out this next Gaudi structure because it served as the inspiration for one of my all-time favorite films. As we stood on the sidewalk and gaped up at the wavy, sloping curves of this cave-like building, it was easy to see the resemblance to the primitive huts from

Planet of the Apes. Originally designed for the Milla Family between 1905-1910 it is also known as the Pedrera or Quarry. Gaudi’s nod to nature is prevalent in the twisting vines of the wrought iron trellis and the undulating walls that ripple like desert sands. The Pedrera is truly a cinematic touchstone for the warrior-like, rooftop, chimney sculptures reportedly influenced the design of the storm troopers’ helmets in Star Wars.

 

As we continued along Passeig de Gracia we couldn’t help but feel an incredible sense of excitement. Barcelona reverberates with a dazzling, invigorating power that is intoxicating. We were like two lightning bugs, beaming brightly at all of the strange and wonderful sights that stretched out before us. Passeig de Gracia reminds us of Amsterdam or Broadway in New York City, it is a residential, busy thoroughfare teeming with fashion, restaurants and street side cafes.

 

We recharge our batteries with a quick stop at one of those cafes. Elene orders a strong cup of Spanish Coffee, while I opt for a local, fizzy lemon drink called Kas. Tiene a Kas, (grab a Kas) it says across the top of the can. I find it interesting that a foreign slogan should translate so well into English. It is one of the few Spanish things I can decipher, fluent in soda can doesn’t have much of a ring to it. I can’t wait to arrive in France where I can really air out my second tongue.

 

About two or three blocks further up on Gracia we come across a triple offering of the most outlandish and whimsical architecture we’ve witnessed since arriving in Barcelona. It is hard to be in a hurry for one must stop and be enthralled by the artistry and pizzazz of each building. They are so unique that this section of the avenue is known locally as Manzana de la Discordia or Block of Discord.

 

This trio of buildings is considered to be the finest reflection of Modernist Architecture in Barcelona and features another bizarre Gaudi creation called Casa Batllo. The latter has a mottled wall treatment of lavender and green while a gigantic serpent seems to reside on the roof. A brilliant sweep of ceramic tiles form a bumpy dragons back, the curves of which make the entire upper portion appear like it might slither up the avenue.

 

Soon our travels deposit us at a grand village square called Plaza Catalunya. It is bordered on all sides by some impressive buildings. The plaza in fact is circular in shape and within its center there are flocks of school children taking part in a series of native dances that rotate with each step. From a above it must look like some wonderful kaleidoscope of geometric patterns that would have made Busby Berkeley proud.

 

We make a quick pit stop at a nearby Hard Rock Café and are stunned to find that an ordinary t-shirt emblazoned with the restaurants namesake are selling for an astronomical $60. Soon after, our wanderings become scattered as we peruse the narrow alleys and commercial district of Barcelona. Ultimately we end up in the Barri Gotic section of town and emerge into yet another square, the shopping stalls which summon Elene to gaze trance-like at the selection of baubles and trinkets. The Placa de Sant Josep is a wide open spot fronted by many restaurants, shops and cafés. The church of Santa Maria del Pi looms nearby. Together we traipse among the canopied carts and peer at a plethora of items that may well be a Spanish version of the same fair goods for sale back home.

 

When my glance falls on his fluffy white mane and black mustache I feel compelled to snap a picture of this gentleman who bears an uncanny resemblance to the renowned scientist, Albert Einstein. Albert seems very methodical as he studies a silver pot for sale, perhaps he is also visiting Barcelona and has stepped out of one of those same curves in time we feel as if we have stepped into.

 

After I compose a few post cards, we leave Albert to his pottery and continue our journey toward La Rambla. Within twenty minutes we arrive at a the popular pedestrian-teeming avenue. It is now around 1 pm and La Rambla is jammed with hundreds of locals and tourists alike. We enjoy our time being caught off guard by the unusual street performers and people watching, but, ultimately this swarming stretch of Barcelona reminds us a bit of Times Square without the neon. We pass the Boqueria food market but, it too is a churning cauldron of activity and we continue on. A few moments later we encounter a rather odd statue of the creature from the Alien film. Upon a closer inspection I realize it is in fact a man dressed in a wild costume.

 

We finish up at another outdoor market near Columbus Circle and unaware there is a shuttle back to the pier we tack on another three miles and limp back to the Noordam. We absolutely adored our day in Barcelona and are very sad to leave. There is a great deal to discover in this culture rich city. Back aboard ship I rejuvenate with a sundae doled out by probably the only unsmiling fellow in the entire Lido.

 

I call him the angry ice-cream man. We became pals on the day I complemented him on his dance moves in the Indonesian Talent show, but, that friendship only lasts for two scoops and he continues to sneer each time I wander by for a frosty refreshment. Seated at a nearby table I snap a few pictures of the Moby Ferry that is festooned with Loony Tunes. Soon after I return to our cabin for a long nap to dream about our Spanish adventures and our arrival in Monte Carlo, Monaco the following day.

 

Jonathan

[ESLO]

That last post was me.

Jonathan

 

Dear Elene & Jonathan,

Sorry it took so long to write to you. Took awhile for our sealegs to settle back to land after our 13 day trip and also get back to our duties back on land.

 

Once again, Congratulations to you both on your Marriage aboard the Noordam. Bev & I very much like the photos of your ceremony & the cake.

 

We had a very nice trip along with the railroad tour of the Canal. You were right about the train, great!

 

Would like to email you both on your return to re-establish a longtime in coming re-hash of all that has happened.

 

Continue to enjoy your honeymoon and also the Mary misses you very much. Don't know our plans in 09.

[rebeljohn]

Jonathan...........This has to be one of the best(if not best) live threads I have ever read. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to write this wonderful report on your cruise..............

[cruiserking]

Dear Elene & Jonathan,

Sorry it took so long to write to you. Took awhile for our sealegs to settle back to land after our 13 day trip and also get back to our duties back on land.

 

Once again, Congratulations to you both on your Marriage aboard the Noordam. Bev & I very much like the photos of your ceremony & the cake.

 

We had a very nice trip along with the railroad tour of the Canal. You were right about the train, great!

 

Would like to email you both on your return to re-establish a longtime in coming re-hash of all that has happened.

 

Continue to enjoy your honeymoon and also the Mary misses you very much. Don't know our plans in 09.

 

Thank you very much Ed & Bev, we appreciate it. Glad you had a good time on the QM2 and the Panama Railway.

 

Jonathan...........This has to be one of the best(if not best) live threads I have ever read. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to write this wonderful report on your cruise..............

 

Thank you very much John, that's the highlight of my day!

 

Jonathan

[Bettyboop66]

I have to say that I didn't think that anything could make me want to cruise more than I already do......but you have. We are sailing to the Caribbean on the Noordam in December and I can't wait. We haven't sailed with Holland in several years, we've been on Princess, but after reading this I'm am glad that we chose to come back. Thanks again fro all your posts, they have been great to read. And, congratulations on your marriage!

[cruiserking]

This is one of those breathtaking spots that photographs simply can’t do justice to. With the Noordam at anchor we were privy to a spectacular view of this legendary Mediterranean port.

 

This soaring mountain isle is bulging with elegant villas, hotels, and a palace for good measure. Sitting like a fat cat nestled half way up the hill are the unmistakable twin spires of the Baroque style Monte Carlo Casino. The locals are barred from the gaming rooms, but all visitors are welcome. Just make sure Lady Luck strolls in with you or you might end up Baroque yourself.

 

We tendered ashore and strolled around the harbor admiring the pristine white hulls of an armada of multi-million dollar yachts.

 

Our attention is riveted to a stunning steam powered ship the SS Delphine. This classic 1921 yacht, resplendent in high luster teak was commissioned by automotive magnate Horace Dodge. The SS Delphine, named for Dodge’s only daughter, is the last of her breed. Of all the steam powered American built yachts circa 1893 to 1930 she is the only remaining with her original engines still intact. For more on the fascinating history of this yacht click the link below.

 

The sun is booming today. Only a few innocent clouds perch lazily against an azure sky. We hike up the stone steps along the sea wall for a gorgeous view of our ship and the rocky façade of a nearby cliff. We gaze at the rounded stern of the Albatross, one of the ships in the Phoenix Reisen fleet, which is currently berthed pier side.

 

When we notice a few passengers beginning to board our tour bus, we make our way back toward the tender pier. Eager to unleash my French language skills I promptly introduce myself to our guide Natalie. We are moments from embarking on the Stars of the Cote d’azur tour which will include stops in Cannes, Grasse (including the dreaded perfume factory visit), St. Paul de Vence and dinner at a French restaurant.

 

Shortly we were underway as our bus driver deftly navigated the slender path up a hill along the dense terrain of Monaco. In another moment we had entered a tunnel burrowed into the mountain face and it reminded me a bit of a ride at Universal Studios. While it is enclosed completely by France, Monaco is an independent principality. With this playboy’s paradise in our rear view mirror it quickly seemed as if we had left the Lost Horizon. Moments after we had emerged from the tunnel the skies were clogged with clouds and a chill arm of mist reached into the French valley we motored beside.

 

Although the South of France sported her darker apparel today, she still sparkled with lush greenery and rolling hills. Our drive takes us past Nice and within an hours time we arrive at this coveted spot on the French Riviera, Cannes. We were thrilled be in France and as we strolled the streets of this movie moguls’ Mecca we had one pervasive thought on our minds, lunch. At a nearby outdoor pavilion we scanned the menus of several food kiosks.

 

Seconds before ordering a French specialty sandwich Elene became enchanted by the sound of the Boeuff & Fromage. Our mutual sense of élan took a slight detour when we realized the exotic French fare we had just ordered was in fact two less than thrilling American sandwiches, a pair of cheeseburgers. However, those crestfallen moments would make a swift about face when our order appeared before us.

 

Two Frisbee sized burgers in buns with all the fixings were presented to us cooked to perfection and very tasty. In addition to standard garnishes of lettuce, tomato, special sauce, what truly distinguished this French Burger was the addition of a piece of ham. We could have easily split one, but we happily lunched on our Boeuff and Fromage and browsed at the street merchants and crowded cafés beyond. We saw the Carlton and several other opulent hotels along the stretch but, our stay only afforded us time for a quick stroll before heading back to our tour bus.

 

As we rode up into the hills it was time to pay our dues to the great excursion gods as we made our way to the much reviled merchandise stop at the perfume factory in Grasse. It is the bane of most organized tours, the pre-planned souvenir stop. We never would have been able to cover so much ground had we not booked this tour so we make the best of it.

 

An intermittent drizzle continued to fall as we sauntered into the Galimard Parfumerie. Within moments of entering the lobby our noses were tickled and assailed with the strong, cloying scent of distilled lavender and spices.

 

It reminded me of a trip to Georgia my dad and I had taken. Our travels had brought us to the MchIlenny Tabasco Factory in Avery Island, Louisiana, it seemed like a good idea at the time. As soon as we stepped inside we were overcome with the pungent reek of vinegar. The Tabasco tour guide smiled and motioned for us to follow, but, my father quickly quipped, “I think we just took the tour.”

 

A perfume factory representative launched into a syrupy diatribe with such a forced bonhomie I felt like a third grader on a class trip. The thought of traveling deeper into this sneeze inducing haven was too much and we beat a fast retreat to the lobby. Here presented another opportunity for me to employ my French conversing abilities as I ascertained where the gift shop was located. Despite a selection of soap filled baskets and a parade of bottles and jars, we were drawn to a pair of lemon shaped soaps.

 

Just beyond the floral smelling fog sat a rather unimposing machine that would become the highlight of our visit to Grasse. Upon noticing our intrepid driver drinking from a small paper cup, my travels brought me to this quiet corner contraption. As a boy I was often mesmerized by pressing those giant Fresca buttons, hearing that metallic rattle and the frosty appearance of a refreshing beverage, it was like magic.

 

I had come full circle now as I plunked my single Euro coin into the slot. I pressed Café au Lait, in a moment a small cup was dispensed. Next a strong whirring sound followed by a few clicks. When the robotic rhythms ceased I raised the little automat-like lid and grabbed my miniature cup.

 

Not only is this the tastiest and only cup of machine made cappuccino I have ever enjoyed, it has already been sweetened and is crowned with frothy layer of foam. There are at least five varieties of warm brew offered including hot chocolate. This wonderful little mechanical device is leagues ahead of the cold, tasteless swill our machines concoct back home.

 

Within five minutes I have returned to this friendly little apparatus to insert another euro and wait for the coffee cup concerto to begin. Some folks have a one-armed bandit tucked away in their den. I will dream of adopting a friendly French coffee machine and entertaining company with a perfect Lilliputian cup of cappuccino.

 

Between the rain drops, some banter with other perfume tour runaways and our tiny coffee cup cordial, happy memories of Grasse will forever lurk in my mind’s eye.

 

Arriving at our next stop our window affords us a glorious view of the medieval, walled village of St. Paul de Vence. Atop its craggy, mountain peak this ancient town evokes the mystery and atmosphere of a time when the only wheels that rolled nearby were those drawn by horses. A persistent but, refreshing rain fell as we scaled the nearby hill to the outer ramparts of Vence.

 

We ascended the upward spiral of cobbled streets and twisting paths discovering an assortment of interesting galleries, pottery shops and boutiques. You can almost visualize the nodding approval of bygone villagers whose narrow roads forbid the entry of lumbering buses. As such Vence retains its old world ambience and there is a welcome absence of tourist stalls.

 

We spy a chocolate shop tucked into a corner and relieve the owner of a half dozen of the tasty morsels. As we navigate our way back toward the entrance we pass a low stone wall with the most startling and picturesque view of the verdant hills, villa dotted valley and distant mountains. The South of France is a glorious spot and one that we are eager to return to.

 

We finish our French sojourn with a delightful dinner at a restaurant called Auberge des Gorges du Loup, it is located near Grasse in a village called Bar sur Loup. There is a cozy farm house splendor to this rustic and colorful bistro. A pair of long linen covered tables await us. Overhead candles burn in wrought iron sconces, lemon colored curtains pull back to reveal the waning day light. Giant wooden beams soar across the ceiling and in the back sits the gaping mouth of a brick oven adorned with copper pots and pans. The service is swift the supper of salad and chicken is divine. We finish up with a lovely lemon meringue pie and several cups of hot coffee.

 

As we drive back to Monaco we are lulled into a blissful state from the haunting strains of Andrea Bocelli and we relish every lingering memory of our fabulous day in the South of France.

 

Jonathan

 

PS

 

The gentleman who took ill aboard the Noordam and had to debark in Funchal has since returned home to England and is doing very well.

 

Here is an interesting link detailing the history of the steam ship SS Delphine which is currently docked in Monte Carlo, Monaco.

 

http://www.ssdelphine.com/past.htm

[cruiserking]

I have to say that I didn't think that anything could make me want to cruise more than I already do......but you have. We are sailing to the Caribbean on the Noordam in December and I can't wait. We haven't sailed with Holland in several years, we've been on Princess, but after reading this I'm am glad that we chose to come back. Thanks again fro all your posts, they have been great to read. And, congratulations on your marriage!

 

Thank you very much Bettyboop for the wedding congrats and the nice comments.

 

Jonathan

[Love the beach]

Jonathan, Thank you once again for doing this-- it is just fabulous reading all of this & we have been anxiously awaiting each installment!

[cruiserking]

Jonathan, Thank you once again for doing this-- it is just fabulous reading all of this & we have been anxiously awaiting each installment!

 

 

Thank you so much Love the beach, what a nice lift this is on a hectic Wednesday morning.

 

Just one more entry about Florence and some parting thoughts about the overall voyage.

 

Jonathan

[newbie2468]

Cruiserking,

 

WHat a wonderful accounting of your trip... Congratulations on your marriage !! We are going on the Noordam next June to Europe... Rome-Rome 10 days...We are going in three days early to Rome to experience Italy !... Any suggestions? We plan to go to Assisi one day and Pompeii one day and do Rome in 1 1/2 days... The touring company we are "thinking" of using has recommended doing the Vatican and Sistine Chapel on the way to the Port...I am a little concerned about this since I like to be onboard fairly early.. but.. do you think those two sites are doable in 4-5 hours and then get to the ship early afternoon? We have always sailed Princess so HAL is new to us... We are staying in a SY cabin..again new to us... Thanks for any information...

 

I am also going to check out the hotel where you stayed... the booking company recommended Hotel Baocco..

 

Thanks again

 

Tory

[cruiserking]

Cruiserking,

 

WHat a wonderful accounting of your trip... Congratulations on your marriage !! We are going on the Noordam next June to Europe... Rome-Rome 10 days...We are going in three days early to Rome to experience Italy !... Any suggestions? We plan to go to Assisi one day and Pompeii one day and do Rome in 1 1/2 days... The touring company we are "thinking" of using has recommended doing the Vatican and Sistine Chapel on the way to the Port...I am a little concerned about this since I like to be onboard fairly early.. but.. do you think those two sites are doable in 4-5 hours and then get to the ship early afternoon? We have always sailed Princess so HAL is new to us... We are staying in a SY cabin..again new to us... Thanks for any information...

 

I am also going to check out the hotel where you stayed... the booking company recommended Hotel Baocco..

 

Thanks again

 

Tory

 

Hi Tory,

 

Thank you very much for your kind congrats and comments.

 

I think HAL probably offers a pre-cruise land tour option. If you book with them you won't have the stress of making it to Civitavecchia on time to board the ship.

 

The crowds will be severe in June. We visited the Sistine Chapel on April 21 and it was completely jammed. Our goal was to see the Chapel and we made a beeline there. The Vatican Museum which houses the Sistine Chapel opens at 10:00 am. There will be a long line. Get there early. You will see the Vatican when you leave.

 

If as you say you like to be onboard the ship early on the day of embarkation I would advise against bogging yourselves down with lots of touring that day. It's a two-hour cab ride from Rome to Civitavecchia. I would advise leaving Rome by 10:00 am arriving at the port at around noon.

 

There is so much to do and see but, you simply cannot do everything. I would consider skipping either Pompeii or Assisi, do one or the other and give yourselves two full days in Rome. The Exedra is a gorgeous hotel, highly recommend it, we loved coming back there and relaxing after a busy morning.

 

With two full days in Rome you'll be able to enjoy yourselves without working yourselves into a lather. Have a wonderful voyage.

 

Jonathan

[innlady1]

Thank you for taking us along on your journey, Jonathan. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your travelogue each day. Are you back in NYC now?

I hope you get a chance to post some photos for us!

[mamaofami]

Jonathon, I'm eagerly awaiting FLorence and the David sighting.

[cruiserking]

Thank you for taking us along on your journey, Jonathan. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your travelogue each day. Are you back in NYC now?

I hope you get a chance to post some photos for us!

 

Hi Sheila,

 

Yes, we're back home in New York. We arrived on April 24. I will upload our pictures and post a link. Thanks for the nice comments.

 

Jonathon, I'm eagerly awaiting FLorence and the David sighting.

 

Hi Carol,

 

Hoping to post the final chapter of our journey soon and perhaps a picture or two. Thanks very much for your intereste and eagerness it compels me to not practice my hobby of procrastination.

 

Jonathan ;)

[cruiserking]

Here are the pictures from our Noordam transatlantic and Mediterranean Adventure. There are a few wedding shots in the beginning. Click on this picture to see them all.

 

 

 

You can view them as a slide show here:

 

http://good-times.webshots.com/slideshow/560627095WYmEpq

 

Jonathan

[Love the beach]

Fabulous pictures- enjoyed seeing them as much as I enjoyed reading about your trip!! You would make a great advertising rep for the travel industry!

[Rhea58]

Wonderful pix to go w/a well-written travelogue...

many happy years to you both.

[cruiserking]

Fabulous pictures- enjoyed seeing them as much as I enjoyed reading about your trip!! You would make a great advertising rep for the travel industry!

 

Thank you very much Love the Beach

 

Wonderful pix to go w/a well-written travelogue...

many happy years to you both.

 

Rhea58,

 

Thanks for reading the travel journal, very happy you enjoyed it and thanks very much for the well wishes, we appreciate it! :)

 

Jonathan

[LizB1]

Hi Jonathan,

 

I am thoroughly enjoying your pictures, and they bring back so many memories of our great TA cruise...thanks for posting them.

 

We both look forward to seeing you and Elene on the Eurodam in August. In the meantime hope you have a great summer.

 

Liz

[mamaofami]

LizB1, why don't you come and sign up on our roll call for the Eurodam, or are you Liz, Earl, and Elie?

[LizB1]

LizB1, why don't you come and sign up on our roll call for the Eurodam, or are you Liz, Earl, and Elie?

 

Hi Carol,

 

We are, in fact, Liz and Earl that are already listed on the Roll Call. Ellie is a friend and not a CC member and doubt she is interested in joining the group.

 

Liz

[MWGuy]

Great Hawaii pictures. Thanks for posting.

[Michele Noel]

Happy Honeymoon and life to Jonathan and Elene. Your travelog ranks up there with Peter Mayles French stories. Thank you so very much for writing so well. Have never sailed HAL but you make me want to go. Best Wishes to both of you. Michele

[cruiserking]

Hi Jonathan,

 

I am thoroughly enjoying your pictures, and they bring back so many memories of our great TA cruise...thanks for posting them.

 

We both look forward to seeing you and Elene on the Eurodam in August. In the meantime hope you have a great summer. Liz

 

Hi Liz,

 

Great to hear from you. Just barely off the Noordam and we're counting the days till our return to fantasyland about the sparkling, new Eurodam. See you in the Ocean Bar, if not sooner.

 

Jonathan

 

 

Happy Honeymoon and life to Jonathan and Elene. Your travelog ranks up there with Peter Mayles French stories. Thank you so very much for writing so well. Have never sailed HAL but you make me want to go. Best Wishes to both of you. Michele

 

Thank you very much Michele for your kind wishes and your very nice compliment, I really appreciate it! :-)

 

Jonathan