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Sigma 10-20 mm. superwide zoom lens - how good?


Aplmac

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The test in this month's Popular Photography showed it as a good performer.
Since last writing, I've heard otherwise... that Tamron's superwide was 'okay'..

 

and that the TOKINA equivalent entry was really the one to get

but what do I know?

 

Just passing on opinion that I read elsewhere.

 

 

 

TokinaAF12-24mm.jpg

 

 

I like the grip-rings!

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Found this at URL..

http://www.nikonians.org/nikon/nikkor-12-24mm/super-wide_shootout_5.html

but also be sure to click on the MORE link down at the bottom of the webpage

where they have something to say about all four superwides...

 

_________________________________________________

 

12-24mm f/4.0 AT-X Pro AF Tokina Super Wide Angle Zoom Lens BUILD / PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

The Tokina 12-24mm lens is hefty, weighing in at over one pound (570g), making it the heaviest lens we tested.

It has a black crackle-coat finish reminiscent of the early AF-I Nikkor lenses.

The zoom ring is close to the rear of this lens, and the focus ring is towards the front.

The two rings have different widths and textures so they can easily be distinguished.

This lens is a “G” design, with no aperture ring.

This lens takes 77mm front filters, and has a pinch-front style lens cap that can easily be attached or removed with the bayonet-mount lens hood installed.

The focus mechanism is internal, and the distance scale reads from 1-7 feet and infinity.

There are no hyperfocal markings on this lens.

The large, petal-shaped lens hood is reversible and has a black velvet lining.

 

The Tokina 12-24mm uses a standard AF drive, but MF override is possible by sliding the focusing ring towards the rear of the lens.

This feature enables MF override without switching the focus mode selector on the body of your camera.

Internally, the lens features an optical formula of 13 elements in 11 groups and a nine-bladed aperture.

 

The lens has a constant maximum aperture of f/4.0 throughout the zoom range, and a close-focusing distance of just under one foot.

Because this lens has a “DX” design, the image circle is too small to cover the frame on a 35mm body.

However, our testing suggests that you could use this lens on a film body between 19-24mm and get minimal vignetting.

 

 

PERFORMANCE

With both bodies, autofocus with the Tokina 12-24mm is crisp and precise.

Expect better low-light focusing performance with the CAM2000 module of the D2x.

However, with a lens this wide, autofocus seems hardly necessary.

The lens has a nice feel in the hand, and its weight makes it feel like a “pro” lens. Images with this lens have good contrast at all apertures and focal lengths.

Center sharpness is good at 12mm, and very good to excellent at the longer focal lengths or when stopped down to f/8 or f/11.

The edges of images taken at 12mm and wide-open are noticeably softer than the center when viewed at 100% in Photoshop.

There is moderate light fall-off with this lens, especially at 12mm, which goes away by f/8.

Above f/16, there is noticeable softening of images due to diffraction effects.

At 18mm and 24mm, this lens yields good to very good sharpness in the edges, especially when stopped down.

In our test sample, we noticed that images at f/11 and f/16 were noticeably dark compared to those taken with other wide lenses,

but this was a uniform effect that could easily be adjusted with post-processing,

and did not appear to be a metering issue.

This effect may be due to sample variation, but we have no way of testing this hypothesis without additional copies of the lens.

 

Optical distortion is controlled very nicely in this lens.

There is slight pincushion distortion at 12mm, and very little, if any, barrel distortion at 24mm.

At the wide end, chromatic aberration (CA) was apparent in images taken with the D2x, but it was very minor; about one pixel in width at 100%.

Nit-pickers will be able to remove the CA effects easily enough with Photoshop CS2 or in RAW files with Nikon Capture software.

 

When used with a standard polarizing filter, we observed vignetting at 12mm with the Tokina 12-24mm lens.

This vignetting was gone by 14mm or so.

 

________________

CONCLUSIONS

The Tokina AT-X 12-24mm lens is a fine performer, especially at focal lengths longer than 12mm.

At 12mm, performance is good, but plan on shooting at f/8 or higher for maximum sharpness in the edges of the frame.

For landscape work, this is practically a non-issue.

The constant aperture design and nine-bladed diaphragm are nice touches on this lens.

 

 

This lens is a good choice for Nikon shooters who:

• Cannot afford the Nikkor 12-24mm DX lens

• Shoot stopped-down most of the time, such as landscapes

• Don’t need AF-S focusing, but want a fast maximum aperture

• Have a 28-70mm mid-range zoom, and need 24mm focal length in their kit

On the other hand, this lens may not be for you if:

• You are a sharpness “freak” and do a lot of shooting at 18-24mm.

• You need AF-S focusing

• You are shooting wide-open most of the time

• You want a lightweight lens

Our opinion is that this lens is a worthy alternative to the Nikkor 12-24mm DX

if price is an issue and you need a super-wide zoom.

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I am going to Tromso in Norway in Feb - celebrating a big birthday!!!!

I am really really hoping to see Northern Lights - have a Nikon D40 + 18-200 Nikkor VR.3.5-5.6G ED Have bought extra batteries - have tons of memory - have just bought Manfrotto 055XPROB with 3 way head.

I know I need a wide-angle lens - do I get a tokina 12-24mm f/4.0 or would'nt it make more sense to get the faster tokina 11-16f 2.8 or something like it - the nikon one is a bit expensive - what will work on my D40? if it has to be manual focus will I lose a lot? I am very much an amateur but learning lots with the help of this forum - thanks for that.

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I am going to Tromso in Norway in Feb - celebrating a big birthday!!!!

I am really really hoping to see Northern Lights - have a Nikon D40 + 18-200 Nikkor VR.3.5-5.6G ED Have bought extra batteries - have tons of memory - have just bought Manfrotto 055XPROB with 3 way head.

I know I need a wide-angle lens - do I get a tokina 12-24mm f/4.0 or would'nt it make more sense to get the faster tokina 11-16f 2.8 or something like it - the nikon one is a bit expensive - what will work on my D40? if it has to be manual focus will I lose a lot? I am very much an amateur but learning lots with the help of this forum - thanks for that.

 

Very unlikely that the additional speed would be a huge bonus. I would be more concerned that the D40 doesn't have a body-mounted focusing motor, so the 11-16 is manual-focus only.

 

You might want to look at the Sigma 10-20 that is discussed heavily on this thread or perhaps the new Tamron 10-24, both of which auto-focus with the D40.

 

 

Dave

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Thanks Dave for your reply - OK - need to get this bought - in your opinion which of the 2 lens you suggested should I buy?

I was up until 2am this morning reading the different forums - my poor eyes are sore :( and I definitely had brain overload but I am really enjoying my hobby

Thanks in anticipation

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Thanks Dave for your reply - OK - need to get this bought - in your opinion which of the 2 lens you suggested should I buy?

I was up until 2am this morning reading the different forums - my poor eyes are sore :( and I definitely had brain overload but I am really enjoying my hobby

Thanks in anticipation

 

The Sigma has been in the market longer, so it is more available. That may be the only tipping factor in a comparison. Looking at the lab tests, I'd have to say that the 10-20 tests a (very) little better, but gives up 4mm at the long end and is a bit slower (smaller aperture). Most of the "reviewers" are going to pixel-peep at 200% magnification and proclaim that one does this better than that one but in the real world, I doubt if you would see any real image quality difference between the two in prints smaller than 16x20.

 

It's a tough choice...both good. ;)

 

Dave

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I'd like a zoom that is as crisp and as sharp with as good color in the 70-200 or 70-300 range if possible, or there abouts. I have found these characteristics in this Sigma lens, in my Canon 17-55 lens and I just need one more lens to round me out. :D

 

The Canon 70-300 IS is generally considered pretty good. I picked one up a little under a year ago because I tend to do more telephoto stuff than wide angle, and I've been pretty happy with it. Would be nice if it was a tad faster, but that somewhat faster tends to put the lenses out of my range.

 

Most of the shots in my Red Bull Air Race album are using this lense (although they're resized down enough that they definitely lose something), but this is one shot that I particularly liked http://www.schrock.org/photos/2008-red-bull/at6-2.jpg.php

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The Canon 70-300 IS is generally considered pretty good. I picked one up a little under a year ago because I tend to do more telephoto stuff than wide angle, and I've been pretty happy with it. Would be nice if it was a tad faster, but that somewhat faster tends to put the lenses out of my range.

 

Most of the shots in my Red Bull Air Race album are using this lense (although they're resized down enough that they definitely lose something), but this is one shot that I particularly liked http://www.schrock.org/photos/2008-red-bull/at6-2.jpg.php

 

Piper...Thanks. The Plane's look good!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought the Sigma lens last week. I've taken several shots with it and I'm very impressed. I'm excited about our next cruise in nine weeks time to South America. Hopefully I'll be able to take some photos of churches and museums that won't be falling on their backs.:)

It does take some getting used to. Holding the camera vertical, no tilt, is very important, but the great thing about digital is that you can practice, practice, practice.

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Hopefully I'll be able to take some photos of churches and museums that won't be falling on their backs.:)

It does take some getting used to. Holding the camera vertical, no tilt, is very important.

What the Sigma 10-20 lens 'takes in'

is simply sooo much that what I often do now

is try my best to hold the camera back as close to vertical as possible

and if I cram the bldg. into the upper half/two-thirds of the frame

that's okay, because I know full well I'm going to crop out all that useless foreground

when I get the shot into the computer.

 

i.e. I find myself thinking ahead about what I'm going to do with Photoshop

before I even squeeze that shutter button

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What the Sigma 10-20 lens 'takes in'

is simply sooo much that what I often do now

is try my best to hold the camera back as close to vertical as possible

and if I cram the bldg. into the upper half/two-thirds of the frame

that's okay, because I know full well I'm going to crop out all that useless foreground

when I get the shot into the computer.

 

i.e. I find myself thinking ahead about what I'm going to do with Photoshop

before I even squeeze that shutter button

 

Here's a couple of shots that I took at 10 mm. The photo superimposed on the main photo (outlined in black) was taken from the same spot at 18 mm.

 

sigma01.jpg

 

sigma02.jpg

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I love my Sigma 10-20mm. Can't wait to take it on our April cruise!!:D
Mine's going with me again on my April cruise,too!

 

If you want to see what awaits you

click on the Mariner pics link in my signature block,below..

All those Mariner pics were shot with the Sigma -I took nothing else.

 

 

Sure you can get shots like this...

Mariner-340.jpg

 

 

but the Sigma also does neat close-ups too...

CHOPS-383.jpg

 

 

 

And don't forget that not everything has to be shot at the ultra-wide setting.

Took me awhile to realize that..

 

.

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I believe Sigma makes a few fisheye lenses, including this 10 mm. model

sigma-10mm-fisheye-lens.jpg

 

Does this model deliver a circular image, or a 'full-frame' image?

 

 

 

In a past life I owned (and used!) a Nikkor 16 mm. f2.8 full-frame fisheye lens

- a really nice lens for doing Travel-type shots, with curving horizons etc.

 

If I could get something like that for my Nikon D60

I could be very tempted when Carnival Victory gets me to St.Maarten in late April

(Special one-off 3day cruise, not the regular loop)

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Mine's going with me again on my April cruise,too!

 

If you want to see what awaits you

click on the Mariner pics link in my signature block,below..

All those Mariner pics were shot with the Sigma -I took nothing else.

 

 

Sure you can get shots like this...

Mariner-340.jpg

 

 

but the Sigma also does neat close-ups too...

CHOPS-383.jpg

 

 

 

And don't forget that not everything has to be shot at the ultra-wide setting.

Took me awhile to realize that..

 

.

 

Fabulous pictures!!! Now if April 5th would just get here :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sigma has announced an ultra-wide angle zoom, the 10-20mm F3.5 EX DC HSM.

 

This new design squeezes a relatively fast F3.5 constant maximum aperture

into a body about 10% larger in each dimension than the company's popular 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC HSM.

 

The lens has a minimum focus distance of 24 cm (9.4 inches) throughout the zoom range,

and features two Super-Low Dispersion glass and two Extraordinary-Low Dispersion glass elements

for the correction of chromatic aberrations.

 

It is designed for cameras with APS-C/DX sensors,

and will be available in mounts for Sigma, Canon, Nikon, Sony and Pentax DSLRs.

 

.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09030305sigma10mm20mm.asp

 

 

sigma10_20mm_3_5NEW.jpg.1135646ba167cfa6fb9ae4e9ec1c937c.jpg

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Finally, I can contribute to this thread.

These were taken on RCI Explorer of the Seas a couple weeks ago.

Very nice shots indeed. Looks a good bit like Mariner?

Amazing sculptures they have there, suspended it mid-air...

 

Nice to be on board for a few days -you can pick and choose your shots and angles over time.

I had to rush thru Mariner in 3 hrs. not quite shooting from the hip,but close

 

____________________________________

And speaking of shooting from the hip unobtrusively

I've found that simply letting the camera hang around your neck

a litle above waist-level --is a great place to shoot pics from.

 

Using the Sigma 10-20 (set at 10 or close) --on an autofocus, autoexposure camera

is the simplest of tasks.

Just oint and shoot.. shooting 'blind' on any viewfinder.

 

I've had amazing results that way,steady as a rock and not badly composed either.

Nothing that couldn't be corrected with a little judicious cropping.

 

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