Oceania Nautica Eastern Mediterranean October 13 - 25

[lcand1923]

I had a cousin who moved to West Virginia after she married. When her parents visited her new home they were horrified to see a portion of the roof with tar paper. Her father questioned his son-in-law about moving his daughter into an unfinished house. It turns out that houses in the community are not taxed until they are "completely under roof". He was going to leave a portion of his exterior roof with tar paper as long as possible. I haven't seen this cousin for quite a while, but know the house had tar paper for about 20 years on that one section of roof. (Yes, it was finished underneath. The tax people would drive buy to do their inspections.)

[meow!]

That is interesting?!

[PK227]

We were in Santorini in the 80's and I don't remember the cable car costing money. That being said, I don't care what it costs. No donkey for me. And we were fortunate enough to tour Akoteri (not sure about the spelling). I have read that it is now closed because of an accident. Anybody know if there are plans to open it? We have a cruise planned on Oceania in October. That was such an amazing place, we were disappointed to hear it was no longer open.

[meow!]

Continued from above …

 

KUSADASI

 

After a stormy rough night of sailing, we docked in Kusadasi. Once we got off the ship, a man with a “passenger bicycle” approached us and would take us into town for 3 euros. Not knowing how far it would be, we agreed, and got to a shopping plaza right next to the terminal building. Inside, we found the Nautica right beside one of the plaza outlets (though you had to “turn around” quite some distance to get to the entrance). Inside, there was an ATM machine which would give you the new Turkish lira, euro or dollar on your choice. We took 40 liras just for the sake of it (close to $40), bought some postcards, stamps and cloth bookmarks, and one shop offered to mail it for us.

 

We didn’t venture further than this plaza, as the “shore representative” on deck 4 told us that there was nothing to see other than carpet factories. So we spent perhaps two hours there, and looked at some “pashtouche” (?) scarves. The saleslady wanted 290 euros, mindful of bargaining, we offered her $250, up to $300, and it was flatly refused. In this plaza, we did not see any women with headscarf and even locals were in ordinary dress, no sign of religiosity. As carpets were very expensive, we only took pictures of one lady demonstrating carpet weaving and didn’t buy any ourselves. Having not much else to do, we walked back to the ship.

 

MYKONOS

 

After failing to anchor at Delos the next morning, the ship moved to Mykonos, and the captain tried very hard twice before he managed to anchor. After testing the waters with two tenders, he finally let us passengers tender ashore. It was windy, and not conducive to exploring. There were quite a few souvenir shops and restaurants right on the shore. We chose one with clear plastic sheets covering (to avoid the wind and yet can see the picturesque shore and sea) and had lunch in that restaurant. We ordered Greek coffee, a bottle of water and a plate of “Greek meat cake” to share. While sitting down, we wrote the postcard we had just bought and mailed it back to ourselves afterwards.

 

There was a cat in this restaurant, very friendly, but (like other cats in Greece) looked “long and thin”. (Dogs, on the other hand, were mostly “free roaming” and appeared well nourished.) We did not know whether it was the characteristic of the breed, or they were not given enough food. Cats in America tend to look like Garfield! We bought a small toy windmill as souvenir, and not having much else to do, tendered back to the ship. As the waves picked up towards late afternoon, the captain stopped passengers and crew from tendering ashore a couple of hours before sailing time. That didn’t affect us anyway.

 

ATHENS

 

We finally arrived at our disembarkation port. The disembarkation process was smooth and orderly. We got off the ship, were directed to collect our luggage, and proceeded to the taxi queue. As there were quite a few people lining up (several ships docked that morning), we asked the limousines close by how much it would cost for a four hour excursion. (The reasoning was that at 10 a.m., it would be much too early for us to check into our hotel, which we knew would be full. If we could go to the hotel to deposit our luggage and check in first, and we could do our own city tour until 2 p.m., it would be perfect timing for entering our hotel room). The answer was 250 euros, which was too much.

 

At this point, a man came to say that he could do it with a taxi for 200 euros, we said 150 euros, he refused, 175, still refused, being desperate, we swallowed 200 euros for 4 hours. Later on, we asked other taxi drivers in Athens, the answer was 100 euros should be enough! So we got our tails pinched in paying too much .. meoow .. , fortunately, we didn’t lose any paws! This taxi driver took us to the Acropolis, and managed to let us down at the ticket station. One cat just sat on a chair outside this station, while the other, more capable cat, limped to the top to take pictures, and meoowed a lot after climbing back down. Then he took us to a shore side seafood restaurant (we just came from a ship), and wanted us to eat there. We took the cheapest dishes for a total of 30 euros, and of course, he didn’t look very happy. Finally, we checked into the Electra Hotel, a local four star which was good enough for us, and right at the centre of Emou Street, the main shopping street in Athens. At only 165 euros per night, including taxes and breakfast, it was good value.

 

Athens was an interesting city. We tried shish kebab a few times, and found that there were three types, the ones looking like sausages, another type consisting of small chunks of meat pierced by a stick, and a third type being a large hanging piece of meat, which they shaved off slices for you. Perhaps those who are Greeks among you can comment on this. We asked for vanilla ice cream at a street side shop, and instead of one or two scoops, they gave us this large bowl with quite a few scoops and dressing on top, and despite the effort of both cats, we left half of it behind (didn’t want our glucose and cholesterol to shoot off the roof).

 

The main shops were closed on Sunday, but the tourist shopping street was open, and we spent quite a few hours slowly looking through the perhaps hundreds of shops and bought a few small souvenirs. Prices were within reason, some bargaining was possible, but generally no more than 20% or at most 30% off. We saw many free roaming dogs, they all appeared well fed, and some happily sleeping in the middle of the street without being bothered. Fortunately, they were all quite tame, and none of them chased after us cats, that was reassuring .. meow! We also had a meal on a street corner restaurant, sitting at a table under those awnings, and watched other people passing by, getting a good feel of the place.

 

On Monday, we finally walked to the end of Emou Street, crossed this six (or eight?) lane main thoroughfare (with traffic lights and centre islands, fortunately) to the other side of the city where the Grand Britanique and King George Hotels were. This was the high shopping area, though it cost nothing to window shop. Here, there was a central arcade, we sat outside one of those fashionable restaurants, had an ice cream, a cup of coffee and a dish of chicken sandwich (submarine). They gifted us two bottles of water, for a total of only 15 euros, not bad. We also went to the department store nearby and roamed the four or five storeys, comparing prices. Generally local goods were well priced, while American goods were more expensive, as expected.

 

We also took a trolley ride for 6 euros each, which lasted a full hour, starting and ending right in front of the Electra Hotel. It took us around town, passing the Greek Parliament, the Presidential as well as Prime Minister’s Palaces (side by side), the little winding streets around the Acropolis or other archeological sites (the city appeared to be built around such sites), with restaurants and open eating areas all around. This ride was very interesting and most worthwhile. It even made several stops on the way, and you could hop on and off as you pleased. This is something all tourists to Athens should do.

 

... to be continued

[meow!]

Continued from above …

 

MISCILLANEOUS

 

Copied from Oceania’s “Currents” (distributed on board):

 

Distances sailed

Venice to Rovinj 56 nautical miles

Rovinj to Ancona 127

Ancona to Dubrovnik 215

Dubrovnik to Kotor 74

Kotor to Corfu 187

Corfu to Sarande 15

Sarande to Aghios Nikolaos (Crete) 462 (including sea day)

Aghios Nikolaos to Santorini 131

Santorini to Kusadasi 135

Kusadasi to Mykonos 156

Mykonos to Piraeus (Athens) 96

Total 1,654 nautical miles

 

Captain Jurica Brajcic

General Manager Jason Gelineau

Cruise Director Leslie Jon

 

POST-CRUISE

 

After staying in Athens for several days, we went on our own to Switzerland before heading home. Switzerland was a beautiful and very attractive country for tourists, but things in Switzerland were so expensive. On “purchasing power parity” (PPP), our feeling based only on our own limited observation was that in Italy and Greece, perhaps 1 euro was worth US$1 in the U. S. (So the PPP exchange rate ought to be 1 euro = $1, but it was more like $1.3 and even $1.6 just a few months ago). In Switzerland, it was more like CHF2 to buy the equivalent of US$1 in the U. S. (So the PPP exchange ought to be CHF1 = 50 cents, but it was close to 90 cents, and $1 just a few months ago). When we took money out of ATMs, in Italy and Greece, they kept giving us 50 euro notes and other smaller bills. In Switzerland, they gave us CHF200 notes and smaller bills. That hinted on how easy it was to spend money in Switzerland, unfortunately. Could some of you who are economists have some explanation on exchange rate mechanisms?

 

Then it was again the long, trans-oceanic flight home, in an economy seat, the only thing we could afford. Over the last couple of decades, while airlines improved their business class seats to the level of first class in earlier years, and made first class into semi-private cubicles, they only added individual LCD-TVs to economy seats, and some other gimmicks like adjustable head rests. They did not significantly improve on the one most practical and important commodity -- space! Cramped and hemmed in on our meager seats, seeing the hour hand of our watches moving ever so slowly, and counting on how many yet to endure, suddenly the tune and lyric of an old pop song in his youthful years popped into the male cat’s mind, “All my trials Lord, soon be over …”

 

When we got tired enough, without knowing, we passed into sleep, wasn’t that nice! By the time we woke up, it was just another hour and a half before touch down. They gave us another sandwich and another paper cup with orange juice. The plane landed safely. After more than three weeks on a very interesting and worthwhile journey, it was not so bad to be back at “home sweet home”!

 

… to be continued

[CintiPam]

We were in Santorini in the 80's and I don't remember the cable car costing money. That being said, I don't care what it costs. No donkey for me. And we were fortunate enough to tour Akoteri (not sure about the spelling). I have read that it is now closed because of an accident. Anybody know if there are plans to open it? We have a cruise planned on Oceania in October. That was such an amazing place, we were disappointed to hear it was no longer open.

 

They're still arguing about the appropriate way to rebuild there for tourists. However, there now is a fantastic modern museum right in Thira (the town where the cable car is) that houses many of the Akrotiri finds, is designed in a circular gallery chronological order, has a/c and has wonderful labels in both Greek and English. It is near the bus station, just up the hill toward the cable car side. (Not to be confused with the small, unairconditioned museum right by the cable car.) There also are a couple of rooms dedicated to the Akrotiri excavations on the second floor of the National Archaelogical Museum in Athens, which should not be missed for the amazing Mycenae gold finds.

 

Have a marvelous trip!

[meow!]

Continued from above …

 

DISCUSSION

 

As we have stated from the beginning, Oceania is a very good line, with good food, good service and good itinerary. Our voyage has been interesting and valuable, bringing us to so many perhaps once-in-a-lifetime destinations in comfort, which we highly recommend to everyone. We are one couple of ordinary cats with no connection to the travel industry, no rewards to expect, and no axes to grind. We just comment on things we see, honestly and objectively, from the ordinary individual consumer’s point of view.

 

As mentioned in our previous postings, we consider perhaps Carnival and the like as “activity mass market lines”, Celebrity and the like as “gentle mass market lines”, (these being “economy class”, except for their upper suites), Oceania in a niche as “economy plus”, and Silversea and the like as true “business class” (with their upper suites being true “first class”). We are cognizant of the fact that many cruisers cruise several different lines, often on different “classes” of lines on different occasions. Yes, we are comparing apples with oranges, and grape fruits too, but they are all fruits. That makes comparing otherwise dissimilar lines interesting, and informative to many people. As different lines have different nuances, and it takes time to get familiar with each, we stayed with just three: Celebrity, Oceania and Silversea.

 

Celebrity is actually quite adequate. Its cabins are similar to Oceania’s, its service is sufficient (individual butlers for minisuites can be rather nice), its food has good variety (though not as refined as Oceania’s), and we prefer the “older” ships in that fleet, the ones with under 2,000 passengers. On Celebrity, we try hard to avoid crowds, and as on Oceania, we prefer the alternative buffet dinner. Of course, with many more passengers, it is not as “easy” as on Oceania, but Celebrity’s main attraction is its price.

 

Not only is Celebrity always cheaper than Oceania (on a per diem basis), from time to time, there are special deals (true deals, not just reductions back to the original offers). For example, just this past May, we got a 12 day British Isles voyage in a “sky suite” (minisuite) with round trip business class on United Airlines from the West coast to Amsterdam for only 2x$4,000 (like a free business class upgrade) including all taxes, surcharges and fees. That might be a last minute “aberration”, but it was surely exceptional value. So many individual consumers are price sensitive, and such deals are well appreciated.

 

Silversea fares are a lot more geographic location dependent than Oceania’s. They tend to be double Oceania’s fares for Europe, but close to Oceania’s in the Caribbean, especially when they are on sale (“silver sailings”). So for Europe, we chose Oceania over Silversea for its better value, while for the Caribbean area, we chose Silversea, by waiting attentively for those sales (which may be considered “aberrant” by some, but happens quite often, and can be really worthwhile for ordinary cats with limited means).

 

Silversea’s food is similar to Oceania’s, though you can prior order (the night before) items not on the menu. Its service is also similar, perhaps a bit more “personal” than Oceania’s. Its cabins are a lot more elegant than Oceania’s, even comparing to those PH minisuites, and its ships have dedicated “humidors” for those who smoke (we don’t). It has true multi-storeyed theatre and its “production shows” are returning. If your goal is to enjoy the ship (e.g. ocean crossing) rather than the ports, Silversea is better for you. However, Silversea has formal nights, we don’t mind wearing formal clothing, but are not eager to carry the extra luggage for it.

 

Oceania has its own strong points, notably the itineraries, which allow you to see the most in the limited number of days. While it is not luxurious, it is more than adequate for comfortable travel. Just imagine, if you have a five-star hotel in a destination you want, and a four-star one next door with good food and service, which will you choose? For many people, it depends on the price differential. Oceania can be considered very desirable and a top choice at its fare level in 2004, but that could be a start-up “price leader”. By this year, it should have completed all its fare catch-ups, and its competitiveness should be considered already quite “level”, especially in view of its not giving any specials below its respective original offer for any voyage.

 

If we borrow from a previous poster’s department store analogy for illustration, Neiman Marcus may have last minute “aberrant” pricing, which many who are thrift, especially those who need to be thrift due to limited means like us, particularly look for. (An aberrant sale at Neiman Marcus may be more desirable than regular price at Macy’s). Even Wal-Mart has half-price clearance sales (which many of us would love to have, as in the example cited above). Wouldn’t it be nice if Macy’s will put out some genuine (and not “nominal”) sales too?

 

Perhaps with ships nearly full, Oceania has no need for it up to now, but with this economic crisis which will last for all foreseeable future, when most people will have dwindling and devalued resources, further future increases in fares much steeper than the rest of the industry will not be conducive to increasing its customer base. And this happens when Oceania is expecting two new large ships more than doubling its capacity!

 

Of course only time will tell, and the effect of economic meltdown takes time to trickle down, but it will be unrealistic to assume that any cruise line will not be severely affected. After all, cruising is discretionary leisure spending, well behind housing costs and even the family car. We wonder whether all cruise lines who have ordered new ships in the past year at the peak of the market are now regretting their over-expansion.

 

CONCLUSION

 

We are well satisfied with this voyage, it has been rewarding and worthwhile, highly recommendable. We just hope for everybody’s sake that Oceania will be more flexible in its pricing and practise restraint on its fares in the future. We would like to thank all of you who persevered through our rather lengthy thread. Whether on land or at sea, we enjoy communicating with you in this cyber space. We appreciate your comments and encouragement, and intend to continue posting regularly on this cruise critic board, especially in the three columns we usually visit.

[Andy]

Hi Meow !

 

I wanted to thank you for your outstanding reports. I truly enjoyed reading them.

[meow!]

Thank you so much Host Andy, for such a generous comment!

[Paulchili]

meow,

I enjoyed reading your reports.

I largely agree with the points you raised and comparisons you made in your discussion.

As far as your " cruise line trio" - we agree on 2 out of 3. I am not a big fan of Celebrity - I prefer Princess if I want to save some money. Maybe Azamara will change that - time will tell.

Happy travels!

[Napi's Mom]

meow,

I enjoyed reading your reports.

I largely agree with the points you raised and comparisons you made in your discussion.

As far as your " cruise line trio" - we agree on 2 out of 3. I am not a big fan of Celebrity - I prefer Princess if I want to save some money. Maybe Azamara will change that - time will tell.

Happy travels!

Many Oceania passengers are now sailing Azamara, with comparisons

favorable to Azamara, as to Service, crew attitude, and Itinerary.

[Paulchili]

Many Oceania passengers are now sailing Azamara' date=' with comparisons

favorable to Azamara, as to Service, crew attitude, and Itinerary.[/quote']

 

That's what I am thinking; I don't mind the better price either.

[TheFerret]

Thank you, meow for a very helpful and thorough review.

 

I feel like I've been on a vacation just from reading it!

[PintoLvr]

Thank you Meow for such a wonderful review. I loved reading all of it. Great job! I have an itsy bitsy question. You said the cabins had the new TV. Did you notice if it had a DVD player? Many thanks to your response. Lani

[meow!]

Thank you kindly Paulchili, Napi's Mom, TheFerret and pintolvr for your replies.

 

There was a DVD player next to the 23" LCD-TV.

[PintoLvr]

Thank you kindly Paulchili, Napi's Mom, TheFerret and pintolvr for your replies.

 

There was a DVD player next to the 23" LCD-TV.

 

Thanks Meow!!!

[lcand1923]

Meow,

Thank you so much for taking the time to post your review. It was truly enjoyed. The comments were also quite thought-provoking. Looking forward to more of your postings.