Continental Shores Musings

[Pet Nit Noy]

My husband and I just got back from three great weeks in Europe: seven days independent travel in London, the Southampton to Barcelona cruise on Nautica, and four days independent travel in Barcelona. This was our seventeenth cruise -- our fifth on Oceania. It was also our first cruise in Europe, although far from our first trip to Europe. What follows are some highly personal observations about our experience.

 

1. You can go back to the R class ships after you've sailed Marina/Riviera.

 

This cruise was a return to Nautica after a cruise on Marina in 2011. I like the way Oceania has added some of the elements that make Marina special. For example, the Nautica cast shows were better than in the past. The singers had stronger voices and the shows mostly featured songs worth listening to. This meant that even if we never got to the lounge early enough for a decent seat, attending a show was still a pleasant experience. In the food area, Nautica has added some of the most popular dishes from Red Ginger and Jacques to the Grand Dining Room menu. This makes Nautica less of a ship you accept because you want a special itinerary and more of total-experience Oceania cruise.

 

2. With careful planning you can have meaningful experiences in port, but there's still nothing like a land vacation for an in-depth experience.

 

For example, my husband and I had an incredible day with a private guide in Bordeaux visiting wineries in the Medoc region. If we had taken a land trip to Bordeaux, we probably would have spent an additional day touring a different wine region within Bordeaux. However, since we visited three wineries, each of which used a different approach to wine making, we came away from this port call with enough of an in-depth experience to be satisfied.

 

In contrast, our port call at Cadiz highlights the down side of cruising to important destinations. The marketing material and the itinerary we received from Oceania lists September 4 as "Seville (Cadiz) Arrive 11:00 Depart 7:00 PM." Now experienced cruisers know how to read that entry. Unfortunately, in reality, this was not even an accurate description of the situation. Oceania knows it cannot offer an excursion to Seville given the distances and time in port for its typical size groups. Therefore, the ship-sponsored tours for Cadiz include a visit to the White Villages of Andalusia, a Sherry excursion, and a drive through Cadiz. Now, those are interesting experiences for cruisers, but none is actually Seville, the promised destination based on the itinerary. In some sense this was never going to be a problem for my husband and me since we make private arrangements. We booked our day with a commercial company that offers small-group excursions from the Cadiz port to Seville. We were seriously deprived of time in Seville, but our day was successful enough that we were happy with our choice. We had an excellent guide and we managed to have long-enough-to-be-satisfying visits to the Spanish Pavilion from the 1929 World Exposition, the Alcazar Palace, the Jewish Quarter, and the outside of the cathedral. Then, we had one hour of independent time in the city which most people spent touring the inside of the cathedral.

 

We had three other like-minded couples in our group so we wrung the maximum out of our visit. We were supposed to be off the ship between 11:15 and 11:29 AM with an 11:30 departure. All four couples were off the ship by 11:10 and we were underway by 11:15. We all voted not to take a rest stop for the 90-minute drive to Seville. These small adjustments probably gave us an additional 30 minutes at our destination. Returning, all four couples showed up at the meeting place on time and we were comfortably back on board with plenty of margin. As limited as our time was in Seville, I'm delighted that we were able to pull off the trip there. However, I still don't feel Oceania is right to market a port call to a destination unless it can deliver its typical big-bus excursion to that destination.

 

As for the future... We're already planning next year's trip to Europe. We'll be doing independent travel beginning with three days in London, a chunnel trip to Paris for one week, and a week of traveling in Normandy. However, we will cruise again, most likely in Asia. After all, our best-ever trip of any kind combined a cruise from Beijing to Hong Kong on Nautica with independent travel.

Edited September 12, 2013 by Pet Nit Noy

[pacheco18]

1. You can go back to the R class ships after you've sailed Marina/Riviera.

 

/QUOTE]

 

LOL

Different strokes

 

IMO you will WANT to go back to the R class ships after you sail Marina.

[brian_uk]

I actually prefer the larger O ships bacause the cabins are that much larger and the feeling of space overall is more comfortable. This would not prevent me using the R ships if the itinerary was what I wanted.

 

Brian

[pacheco18]

I actually prefer the larger O ships bacause the cabins are that much larger and the feeling of space overall is more comfortable. This would not prevent me using the R ships if the itinerary was what I wanted.

 

Brian

 

That's what I mean -- different strokes

 

For us, the size of the ship and the smaller number of passengers trumps the size of the cabin.

 

For others, cabin size is critical.

 

I cannot wait for the upgrades to the R ships -- it will make them even better and I am looking forward to two future cruises on Nautica post refurbish. Once that grill in the Terrace is in place, I will NEVER go the GDR.

[Mura]

Many people agree with Laraine, many with Brian! I echo the "different strokes" comment. I'm still torn between the two ... some things I like better on the "R" ships, some on the "O" ships, but we appreciate both.

 

As to OP's comment about Seville -- I'm a bit surprised. On our first Renaissance cruise (on the R2, now Regatta) we overnighted in Cadiz and the ship had tours to Seville on both days. (Back then we didn't know about booking private tours, and we booked very late so we might not have been able to arrange anything even if we had.) We took the ship's tour on Day #1. We had an excellent guide who took us through the Alcazar (for 2-3 hours, I forget which, more likely two than three), a visit to the Cathedral, free time for lunch and sightseeing, and ended up with a sightseeing tour via the bus through Seville. We saw quite a lot. It WAS a very full day.

 

Yes, it's better with a smaller group, I agree! But I would say it is possible. And I find it surprising that O would describe a tour that doesn't actually go to Seville as being a tour to Seville! That certainly isn't a proper description.

 

We've been to Cadiz several times now. We have spent time in Cadiz which we found very enjoyable, and once arranged a private tour to Jerez. That was on a very short port day -- we had to be back on board by 3:30 -- so we didn't see as much as we liked there, but we did get to the Clock Museum and the Riding School. We'll have to try again some day ...

 

Mura

[orchestrapal]

Many people agree with Laraine, many with Brian! I echo the "different strokes" comment. I'm still torn between the two ... some things I like better on the "R" ships, some on the "O" ships, but we appreciate both.

 

We've been to Cadiz several times now. We have spent time in Cadiz which we found very enjoyable, and once arranged a private tour to Jerez. That was on a very short port day -- we had to be back on board by 3:30 -- so we didn't see as much as we liked there, but we did get to the Clock Museum and the Riding School. We'll have to try again some day ...

Mura

 

Cadiz also has a very fine art museum in a most interesting building which is worth a visit on a city walk.

[Pet Nit Noy]

As to OP's comment about Seville -- I'm a bit surprised. On our first Renaissance cruise (on the R2, now Regatta) we overnighted in Cadiz and the ship had tours to Seville on both days.

 

An overnight in Cadiz sounds absolutely wonderful. I ran into lots of folks, ourselves included, who would have traded our port call at Concarneau for an overnight in Cadiz. That would been a win-win situation. People could have made a longer visit to Seville and done the appealing things in/around Cadiz.

 

I didn't save the original brochure which first attracted us to the cruise so I don't know if the times changed at all. I know that the original information had nothing about tender/dock ports. At some point, both ports in Brittany became tender ports, but I simply don't remember anything about the length of the stay in Cadiz. What I can say with certainty is that the documentation from Oceania was still describing the port call as Seville (Cadiz) without any ship's tours to Seville.

[pacheco18]

On our O cruise in May 2012, we docked in Cadiz and took a private tour to Seville. There ship tours scheduled too.

Unfortunately, the distance between the port and Seville really makes for a short day. it is a good port for Oceania to have a late stay to allow cruisers to see more of Seville in less of a rush. Fortunately, I had spent a week in Seville in my youth, so I was not too disappointed.

[Mura]

What I can say with certainty is that the documentation from Oceania was still describing the port call as Seville (Cadiz) without any ship's tours to Seville.

 

 

If memory serves, Cadiz has always been referred to as "Seville" in terms of the port ... just as Le Havre becomes Paris. But I remain surprised there were no ship's tours to Seville itself.

 

A week or two before we left for the cruise the NY Times travel section had an article on getting to Seville from Cadiz by train, and we met several passengers who did that and had no trouble at all.

 

Many passengers seem to think that there is nothing in Cadiz and they should head elsewhere ... which is far from the truth.

 

Mura

[Rotterdam]

We have not sailed on the Marina size ships but have done a cruise on a R ship( Azamara) saying that after 50+ cruises we learned long ago to pick itinerary & then ship. The smaller ships can navigate smaller ports w/o using tenders, but I wouldn't cross the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans in a R size ship.

 

Many years ago we learned we loved doing Transatlantic Crossings on QE2 & the FRANCE but they were not so great on a Carib cruise...tendering & the black hulls(higher temps onboard).

 

So why not enjoy the best of all worlds...as long as there is a cold drink once we step back onboard, all is well!

[john2003]

We did Seville by train and it worked very well. One still has to get a cab at the other end as the station is quite a way from the Cathedral area. We had an overnight and did it the first day. I am not sure we would have done it with a 7 pm departure. Too far from the ship for our comfort!

[Mura]

We have not sailed on the Marina size ships but have done a cruise on a R ship( Azamara) saying that after 50+ cruises we learned long ago to pick itinerary & then ship. The smaller ships can navigate smaller ports w/o using tenders, but I wouldn't cross the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans in a R size ship.

 

 

I'm not the greatest sailor -- my husband is -- but we have done two TAs on an "R" ship and other than 1-2 rough days, it was fine. I was sicker on the QE2 than I was on Regatta.

 

Mura

[wripro]

It's stunning to me how many people book a cruise without ever looking at the amount of time in their ports. It's one of the first things I consider. What good is stopping someplace without enough time to even get a superficial view?

[venice07]

What was the name of your private guide in Bordeaux? We are sailing on Nautica Sept 2014 with an overnight in Bordeaux.

[no fuss travel]

Even though we did a land based tour of Spain, the amount of time we had for Seville was not enough. You need several days to see Seville, not just one.:eek:

[Pet Nit Noy]

What was the name of your private guide in Bordeaux? We are sailing on Nautica Sept 2014 with an overnight in Bordeaux.

 

Our guide's name was Dewey Markham and I've provided the link to his web site at the end of this message. If that name doesn't sound very French, its because Dewey is an ex-pat American. Some time ago, he went to France to do wine research on the classification process of wine and he never went home. He's great company if you want to learn about wine. He'll clearly and patiently answer every question and offer interesting anecdotes, but he doesn't crack jokes or feel he has to entertain you with anything but the information that he has in abundance.

 

The mechanics of scheduling/paying for a tour with him are easy, too. Dewey has an American business associate so we were able to send her checks written in US dollars to her. Everything must be paid for in full prior to the day of the tour.

 

Small detail: The day before our arrival at Verdun, the paperwork from the ship had all sorts of warnings about the isolation of the port and the fact that private vehicles (e.g. taxis) were prohibited from coming on the port property. I placed a very, very, very expensive ship-to-shore phone call to Dewey who reassured me there would be no problem meeting us shipside. And there wasn't. Our arrangements with Dewey including his renting a car using our credit card and he was waiting for us 10 feet from the gangway. (Dewey drove the car.) If you read something similar about the isolation of the port, don't get worried.

 

http://dmjwineworks.com/index.php

[robbie21]

Another strong recommendation for Dewey Markham. We did two days with him in May 2012 and had a wonderful and educational time. He will customize your tour in any way you like. We spent one day on the right bank (St. Emilion) and the second on the Left Bank (Margaux, Medoc, etc.). We saw a variety of wineries from big name Grand Cru to small family run operations. Dewey knows the area extremely well and can get into almost anywhere. Note that he makes the reservations and pays the fees and that all tours are private for just your group.

 

Enjoy,

Robbie

Edited December 13, 2013 by robbie21

[venice07]

Thanks SO MUCH for this, Pet Nit Noy.

[venice07]

We heard from Dewey Markham. Sadly, he has been engaged by the company which arranges shore excursions for cruise ships coming to the region - for the exact two days we are in Bordeaux. (What a coincidence) Thus, he is not available for a private booking. Back to the drawing board to search another private tour operator.......

[Pet Nit Noy]

We heard from Dewey Markham. Sadly, he has been engaged by the company which arranges shore excursions for cruise ships coming to the region - for the exact two days we are in Bordeaux. (What a coincidence) Thus, he is not available for a private booking. Back to the drawing board to search another private tour operator.......

 

I went to the archives to find the roll call for our Continental Shores cruise because one cruiser, Michelle, was very active in arranging some shore excursions including one in Bordeaux. She used a private guide other than Dewey, but I believe she was very satisfied with her group's experience. Her email is part of the postings in the Continental Roll Call thread (URL below). You might want to contact her for the name of her Bordeaux guide. Good luck.

 

http://boards.cruisecritic.com/archive/index.php/t-1714108.html

[Mura]

We traveled with Michelle on the Black Sea cruise last year and she arranged several tours, all of which were excellent. If Michelle was pleased with the guide she used I think you can be confident you will be happy as well.

 

Mura