British Isles 8/1 - 8/13: an awesome adventure (long)

[Blondilu]

Sis and I got back from our British Isles Cruise aboard the Royal Princess on 8/13. Since then I've been jet-lagged and sleepless and now apparently post-vacation depressed. We had planned this trip for so long and it was so awesome I guess it's normal to have a sort of let down returning to regular life. Oh well, maybe it's not too soon to start planning something new.

 

Quick background: Sis and I are both 60 something. I'm single, she is single again. We both still work. We started planning this trip about 18 months ago. We planned to spend 4 days in London and then board the Royal Princess for 12 days. I did most of, if not all, of the planning. I like an itinerary that is somewhere between too much and too little, some days of time tables and regimented itineraries and other times that allow us to go off whichever way most suites us. This doesn't always work, but for once I think I hit it just about right.

 

We flew out of SFO on Sunday the 26th and landed at Heathrow the following day around noon. I had reserved a private car instead of getting either a taxi or trying to ride the underground with our luggage and it worked out perfectly. We arrived safe and sound at our hotel, The Windermere, checked in and then headed out into the streets of London.

 

During the 4 days in London we visited St. Paul's Cathedral. I climbed all the way to the top, 528 steps. Yay! We visited The Tower of London. We saw the Changing of the Guard, found the Tardis, rode a boat on the Regent Canal, then rode a boat on the Thames to Greenwich and back. We explored some of the little alley ways of London, colorful and busy. We visited Harry Potter, and Sherlock Holmes, shopped at the Covent Garden and Camden Market. We walked across the Millennium Bridge. Twice. We ate in pubs, a pizza place and two Italian restaurants. At both places the waitresses were named Claudia. Hmm. We walked at least a million miles and climbed nearly as many steps. We hailed taxis and we rode the underground; Mind the Gap! It was a very busy 4 days.

 

We LOVED London and its people. This completely surprised my sister as she is not a fan of cities or city life. But, she was won over by the amazing sites and all the warm and friendly people we met.

 

Embarkation day was a mess as many of you probably know. They wanted to keep us off the ship for as long as possible so they could do a deep cleaning. I had gotten the e-mail so I wasn't totally surprised to get to the Victoria Coach Station and find out there would be a delay. There wasn't much clear communication when we got there and I think that was probably the biggest contributing factor to how disorganized it felt. After much standing around not really sure what to do, they finally got it all straightened out, boarded us on buses and then drove us to the beautiful town of Winchester, home of the famous cathedral. We had lunch there and walked around the town a bit before getting back on the bus.

 

They finally dropped us off at the ship where the was a really, really long line just to get into the terminal. Really long, like the length of the ship long. At least we had a nice conversation with two ladies from Australia who were travelling together. Once inside we could at least sit down to wait. We finally boarded at about 6:30pm. Most of our luggage was in our stateroom, the last piece came when we were at dinner.

 

The ship: I don't know which ship is my favorite, as I have trouble telling them apart, but it probably won't be the Royal. I missed the promenade. I thought the lack of a wrap-around deck somewhat detracted from the experience for me. Made it seem more like a hotel, and less like a ship. But other than that it is very beautiful and I did like the set-up in the buffet much better.

 

We ate at the buffet a few times. I'm not really sure why everyone hates it. I find it to be convenient. The food is OK. Kind of like eating at home, not special, but good. And I take exception to the person who said they didn't get the Norovirus because they didn't eat at the buffet. Really, you can get the Norovirus anywhere. The trick is to wash your hands often. I know this because the Captain came over the loudspeaker at least once a day to tell us this. It was almost comical; his navigation report followed by a report on the number of new cases of gastroenteritis (as he called it) and a lengthy dissertation on personal hygiene. We dutifully obeyed and washed our hands often for at least 20 seconds with warm water and soap, blah, blah, blah. We ate in the buffet and never got sick. We ate everywhere and never got sick. Well, not the Norovirus, anyway. Sis did have to visit the Medical Center for another issue.

 

The food in the main dining room is very good. One meal was particularly memorable as we were seated with the most entertaining tablemates. We had planned on eating and then going to the champagne waterfall, but missed it entirely. The company was just too good and we didn't want to leave. We ate on deck at the pizza place, at Alfredo's, at Sabatini's where our waitress was NOT named Claudia. We also ordered room service a couple of times. I felt all the food was all good to really good, except perhaps the room service breakfast. Neither one of us like what we ordered.

 

My bed was OK, but a little hard, even after the room steward put on the egg crate mattress. But, this is an area that is completely subjective. I like my bed soft. Sis was OK with it being firmer. We had a centrally located cabin and felt very little motion. Even on the one night when the weather was the worst. The storage space in the cabin is ample for two people. Might be tight for 3.

 

I can't comment much on the entertainment. This was a very port-intensive cruise and there never seemed like enough time to get it all in. There was a piano player that I thought was very good and a string quartet often performing either in the Piazza or the Explorer that played beautifully.

 

Regarding the Medical Center. Sis had an issue and needed to see a doctor. It was NOT the Norovirus. I felt the staff handled it all very well. They were friendly and efficient. They took care of her problem, dispensed a prescription and instructions and sent us on our way.

 

The ports:

Guernsey (St. Peter Port) - this was a tender port. Guernsey is a small island that is very close to France and was occupied by the Germans during WW2. We had nothing much planned and walked around the quaint little town ending up at Victor Hugo's house. There wasn't enough time to make the entrance fee worth it, so we wandered around the garden then headed back to the little street that looked out on the harbor. The street was closed to traffic and full of booths where people were selling handcrafted items. There was live music. Once back on the ship we dressed for formal night and headed off to the Symphony Dining Room where we were seated the lovely people I mentioned earlier.

 

Cobh (pronounced Cove) - We got off the ship without a set plan. Maybe take the train, maybe catch a taxi. The wind was blowing quite hard and it felt very cold. So we walked over to where there were some taxis and asked if someone could take us to the Blarney Castle. We got a guy named Eddie, who after loading us in his taxi offered us a deal: $100 euro for there and back and he would wait even while we shopped. I thought it was a good deal. And even if it wasn't what were we going to say? "No. thanks, we'll walk back"? Blarney Castle is a good hour's drive away. Not only did he drive us both ways, he leant me his umbrella since it looked like it might rain. It never really did, maybe a drop or two. He waited while we shopped at the Blarney Woolen Mills, and on the way back he took us to the cathedral in Cobh and then did a little tour of the town. Turned out well, I think.

 

We did not kiss the stone. The line was forever long and there is just so much else to explore on the grounds. We roamed around the Rock Close, found the Witches kitchen and the Poison Garden. Finally we headed off for the 45 minute walk around the lake before heading over to the Woolen Mills for too much shopping.

 

The next stop would have been Dublin, but high winds prevented us from getting into port so it became a sea day. Just as well, Sis had been to the Medical Center and while she started feeling better she needed to rest so we would have cancelled our excursion anyway.

 

Liverpool - With Dublin off the itinerary we sailed straight to Liverpool. We arrived around 4pm, I think, and spent the night there. We tried going out for a walk, but it started to rain so we headed back on board. The next morning we got on a bus for an excursion to the Welsh town of Chester. We stopped first at a little town on the River Dee called Llangollen. We walked around, took pictures and got pastries. Back on the bus for the ride to Chester. First they took us to a hotel for lunch which was very good and then into the town for a tour. We left the tour and went out on our own at this point. Explored the cathedral and then walked on the stone wall which surrounds portions of Chester. This wall was built by the Romans and is about 2000 years old. We then walked around the town, did some shopping and headed back to our meeting point.

 

Belfast - Another excursion. This one to the Giant's Causeway. This is an amazing rock formation on the Northeast shore of Northern Ireland. You enter the area through the visitor's center and then need to either walk or catch the shuttle out to the Causeway. It's about 3/4 of a mile and downhill, so is obviously harder coming back. But we walked both ways with no issue.

 

Greenock - Greenock was a big day. The original plan was to get up early catch the train to Edinburg for the Tattoo after spending the day sightseeing. We got up later than planned. Should have made it even later. The train leaves Greenock every hour or so and ends in Glasgow (Glasgow Central). You then have to walk a few blocks to another train station and catch another train, this time to Edinburgh Waverly. The ride was easy. But, when we got into Edinburgh we found out what The Fringe is. This is a performance festival and there were easily 100,000 extra people in town. There were performances everywhere; street performers, plays, comedy acts. Had I known more we could have made some of the performances. As it was, it was difficult for us to enjoy the city. We could not find anywhere to sit and we were there way too early. We walked and walked and walked. Finally it was time to go into the Tattoo. That was awesome and to me so worth the wait. I have dreamed of coming to this show long before I even knew there was a cruise of the British Isles. Afterwards we hurried to meet up with the private driver I had hired to take us back to the ship. Even with a bathroom stop he got us back to the ship at 1am, which was about 15 minutes before the buses.

 

A big thank you to Shogun for this. What happened was I failed to purchase the Princess excursion to the Tattoo before it sold out. So, I came on CruiseCritic and asked opinions on what I should do. A lot of nice people offered some very nice advice, but Shogun private e-mailed me a long list of possible options. I have to say at this point that neither Sis or I are very well travelled and the whole trip was a really big deal for us, never mind getting to and from a venue on the other side of the country. Shogun's response served to bolster my confidence and I was then able to make the plans I needed to get the job done. Not that I wasn't nervous. I didn't tell Sis, but I gave a silent prayer of thanks when everything went according to plan.

 

The next day was a sea day, thank goodness. It had been a really long day and we needed the rest. We also spent some time packing whatever we wouldn't need for the two days. Oh yeah and going to trivia. We won. OK, there were only 3 teams, but I never was able to win before. Yay!

 

Inverness - The ship docked at Invergordon. We had pre-arranged a private tour with WOW Scotland. We were picked up at the gate by our guide Caroline. She drove us around the backroads of the Highlands, showing us places that bigger buses could probably not go. She took us on little hikes to waterfalls and plied us with the history of the people and places that we saw. It was an all round awesome day. And she got us back on time. Funny, she kept saying that was the one big instruction Gordon (the owner) had given her.

 

Next was Edinburg - we didn't go back into town. Instead we booked the excursion to the Stirling Castle and what Princess tours called "Braveheart Country". We first toured the Bannockburn battlefield where there is a statue of Robert the Bruce and then on to the Stirling Castle.

 

The last day we docked LeHavre, France. We had chosen the Normandy beaches excursion. It was a long bus ride, but worth it. We stopped at Pont du Hoc then Omaha Beach. We went to the American Cemetery and then had lunch at a golf club. A "light lunch" the guide called it. Oh my, it was anything but light. It was good though. We then visited a museum in the town of Arromanches which tells the story of D-Day, and also the temporary harbor that was built to offload supplies after the Normandy landings. Many of the concrete piers are still visible.

 

We had an amazing time. Awesome, in fact. I would go again in a heartbeat. I loved the people, the history, the scenery. Everything.

 

Not sure if this will work but here is my favorite picture from our trip. Sis and I sitting on the banks of Loch Ness.

 

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d602b3127ccee9ba66f8db5300000030O01AaNXDJq0cMQe3nwQ/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00108045285420150824012159461.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Edited August 24, 2015 by Blondilu

[Northern Light]

What a super report which brought back wonderful memories of the UK cruise we took more than three years ago on the Caribbean Princess. Your photo was fabulous..such a beautiful keepsake to have of your trip.

 

I also would go again in a heartbeat. It is unlikely but I keep dreaming anyway. You helped to keep that dream alive. Hope your wish comes true.

 

Sandy :)

[skedaddle43]

Wow! An awesome review of an awesome trip! My daughter and I are making VERY tentative plans for this trip in 2017. What sold us on the idea was reading "The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society" a couple of years ago and have wanted to go to guernsey ever since! Thank you for taking the time to post this. You've definitely convinced me that one middle-aged and one old - at least in number of years - but active women can do it on their own. Thanks.

Edited August 24, 2015 by skedaddle43

[Colo Cruiser]

Yes! An excellent review! :)

[newport dave]

Great review, Chester though, is in England not Wales.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[Shogun]

Hi Blondilu

 

Glad to hear all went well for you, sorry weather was not a bit better, not had any summer here this year,

 

Edinburgh in August

 

https://www.edfringe.com/

 

 

http://www.eif.co.uk/

 

then there is the book festival , the film festival the you get the idea

 

its the worlds largest by a long way of art performance stuff

 

yours Shogun

[Boston Accent]

We are sitting in London, waiting to board the ship tomorrow and loved reading your review! Thanks for taking the time to post it. We've tried to pace the ports similar to you - some days more intensive/ planned then others. You have reassured us we can do it as we are also in our sixties!

 

Pam

Reno, NV

[Keith1010]

Excellent review.

 

Keith

[cynbar]

Wonderful review, we are booked on this cruise for next May (although on Caribbean Princess) and this makes us even more excited. We'd like to do the bigger towns on our own --- do you remember if Princess offered shuttles in Dublin or Belfast? Edinburgh? Did you notice if taxis were readily available? I may think of more questions but that is now, thanks for your help.

[Blondilu]

Thanks to all for the kind words.

 

Skedaddle 43: Go for it, you won't be sorry you did!

 

Boston Accent: Have great time! When you're home and rested come back here and let us know how you did.

 

Newport Dave: You are correct, Chester is largely in England. But, according to our guide a portion of it spreads across the river border into Wales.

 

Shogun: Thanks again. Yes the weather wasn't the best. But it wasn't horrible either except the day it rained. Even then it wasn't terribly cold. I guess it depends on what you're used to. Both my sisters live in Central California. Hot, hot, hot in the summer and they like it that way. I live in the Northern San Francisco Bay Area where the temperature is milder so I'm more use to that kind of weather. I like warmer but I think warmer weather would have made all the travelling uncomfortable.

 

I loved Scotland and hope to get back to Edinburgh at some point, maybe when it's less hectic. Or maybe when I'm more prepared to join in the crazy fun of the Fringe!

[Blondilu]

Cynbar: I remember shuttles for Edinburgh and to Paris from LeHavre, and pretty sure there we were shuttles at the other ports. If you can find it go back a couple of years and read DeLoreangirls review titled "British Isles-a Thesis", I think. She gives excellent info. For instance, I believe she mentions the shuttle in Invergordon, but she writes extensively about taking the train from Southqueensferry into Edinburgh. When we were there before we got on our bus I made a point of walking over to see the stairway that goes up to the Dalmeny train station. It's right there and clearly marked.

 

There is a website called cruise forth dot com which has some good info for Southqueensferry.

 

Regarding taxis, we found the taxi in Cobh right outside the gate. But I'm not sure about the other ports.

[sunshine nana]

Hi Cynbar, We took this trip in July. It was great. There were shuttles in Dublin. I think it was $8 pp each way. We took a taxi back from The Temple Bar and it was 16E. There were a lot of taxis at Belfast. We were on a private tour of Giant's Causeway, so I didn't notice the shuttles.

 

As far as touring the Occupation Museum in Guernsey. It is a short walk to the bus stop and you can get a bus to the Museum for 1L pp each way. Just ask the driver to let you know when to get off. This is better and far less expensive than the ship's excursion. Also, you will need a lot more time to tour than the ship's excursion allows. We beat the tour bus and had the museum to ourselves for almost an hour. I also read the Potato Peel book.

[Mom33]

Thanks for your review. Glad you enjoyed your cruise.:)

[TracieABD]

Thank you for your lovely and detailed review. I just did this cruise in June with my mom and it was just amazing. The memories of this cruise will have to last me a lifetime. Thank you for your wonderful reminders.

[WeeCountyMan]

There is a website called cruise forth dot com which has some good info for Southqueensferry.

 

Apologies - pedant alert !!!

 

If you are Googling South Queensferry be aware it is two words.

 

It was the shortest crossing over the River Forth from the Lothians to Fife as used by the Scots monarchs and their court travelling from principal Royal palaces in Edinburgh over to Dunfermline and Falkland - hence the name, the Fife side is North Queensferry.

 

It is an interesting place - if you are into literature a visit to the Hawes Inn is worthwhile, that was Robert Louis Stevenson's local pub for a time.

 

Then there's the two major bridge crossings, soon to be three.

Edited August 25, 2015 by WeeCountyMan

[timtrek]

Thanks for sharing your journey. Made me feel like I was a part of the your trip.

 

:)