Review: To Denali and Back, July 22 - Aug. 12, 2018

[RetiredMustang]

July 31 (Cont.)

 

As we were coming around the end of the lake back to the trailhead path, we encountered several fellow hikers standing in a group looking intently at something. One of them gave us the “shush/quiet” sign, and held their thumbs to their ears and waggled their fingers. It didn’t take Hercule Poirot to figure out they were looking at a moose.

 

We joined the group and looked to see a large female moose standing in a glade about 100 yards/meters away. She was in shadow with bushes about and I was not able to get a good photo, since the camera lens, at least mine, is not as sensitive as the human eye to subtle differences in shades of brown and gray. One of the men showed us the video he had taken a few minutes earlier of the moose climbing out of the lake and wandering across the trail up to the glade.

 

Now, we had been told that there were actually more injuries from moose each year than there were from bears, and that we should avoid annoying a moose that might take offense and charge us. It seemed the others in the group had heard the same warnings. So, we stood and watched the moose for a while to see if she would amble off somewhere. The trail went around the glade to the left, about 10 yards/meters from where the moose was munching the shrubbery. We all started quietly discussing what we would do – “Are you going to walk around her?” “I-I-I’m not going…” “What about if we …”

 

So, we didn’t do anything for while, and the moose kept munching. Then, she lay down to take a nap!

 

Well!! Now what?!? We finally decided that we would huddle in a group to look too large, or at least too ridiculous, to charge, as we slowly edged past her on the path, rather than take the more-than-a-mile backtrack. So, we slowly went our way forward, stopping now and then on the path, which was a boardwalk in that soft area, and I was able to get a photo of the moose placidly lying in the glade:

 

 

We later talked to a park Ranger who said they were familiar with that moose, who hung around the lake, and had never been known to charge tourists. But, she said, we had done the right thing by bunching up and slowly and quietly leaving.

 

After eventually passing the moose, we quickly rejoined the main trail and walked back up. This was a beautiful place, but be aware that there were about 300 rough log steps down to the lake level, which means that the same number had to be climbed back out; realistically assess your situation if you plan to take this hike. If you can do it, it is a wonderful hike. Just watch out for the moose.

 

 

After we got to the trailhead, we went to the bus stop by the railroad tracks to wait for a shuttle back to the Resort. But, in looking at the map, we discovered it was only about couple of miles or so on paths to walk back, so we set out. The trail took us past the entry to the Riley Creek Campground, and then down a connector trail to the path along the Nenana River. It was a pleasant walk. Near the end, we encountered a bulkhead on which hikers had made rock stacks.

 

 

 

We walked past the Princess Resort to the McKinley Resort, and instead of waiting for an on-resort shuttle, we decided just to walk down to our room. In all, we had walked perhaps six miles, and after all the days on buses lately, it felt good to get out and stretch our legs, and see some beautiful scenery.

 

More later,

Dave

[erewhon]

Interesting report, beautiful scenery, thanks for sharing your photos.

[raks]

I just love your moose encounter story!!!

[kazu]

Great pictures Dave!

 

And a lovely review. Looking forward to more.

 

Sorry to see the Atrium Bar go. It was a spot we used for Happy Hour (and other times) when we were on.

 

Thanks for the pics and update on it.

[Krazy Kruizers]

What a couple of beautiful days you had for doing whatever you wanted to do -- like walking a trail and seeing so much scenery and wildlife.

Great pictures.

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 1, transfer to Anchorage

 

Our stretch of great weather was about to end. A front moved over central Alaska, bringing with it clouds, cooler temperatures, some rain and wind. Before breakfast, we put out our large bag with a tag to meet us at the Westmark Hotel in Anchorage, and shortly after 7 a.m., workers gathered it and a lot of other people’s bags and put them on a truck. We gathered our small things and took a free on-property shuttle to the main lodge to have a latte and wait for the bus to the train. That’s when we chatted with the young (they all are) Ranger about our moose encounter, and she laughed a bit, and then reassured us we had done the right thing. We boarded our bus for the train and were on our way on time.

 

We arrived at the train station near the National Park Visitor Center, and walked to our assigned car, the Kenai, at the front of the train, and found our assigned seats, 4c and 4d, on the starboard side of the upper part of the car. Below were restrooms, the restaurant and an outside viewing platform. We boarded in a drizzle and light rain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again, there was not much storage area for bags in the rail car, and again a few people had brought carryons that were too big to fit under the seat. The train staff stowed a few of those downstairs somewhere.

 

 

 

 

We set out pretty much on time and had an enjoyable journey to Anchorage, although the weather continued rainy and misty and we couldn’t see much of the scenery. Not many took advantage of the outside platform. What we could see was beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 1 (Cont.)

 

There was a bar with bartender at the front of the upper level, and we could order snacks as well. Those who wished to do so could sign up for lunch in the restaurant below. The train ran two different tabs, one upstairs and one down. Before arriving Anchorage, staff circulated and took credit card payments for the running tabs (no cash accepted).

 

Here is the menu from upstairs, and a photo of seating in the restaurant. The menu in the restaurant was more extensive, with things like soup, salads, hamburgers and Cuban sandwiches on offer. We both went downstairs for lunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at the Anchorage train station in the afternoon, and transferred to buses for the short ride to the Westmark Hotel. After we had boarded the bus, HAL emloyees passed out packets with our room keys and itinerary sheet and other info, just as happened at Denali. Since we were staying on after the D2C officially ended, our itinerary was blank, with no airport transfer or excursions.

 

 

We were dropped at the hotel, and we went up to our room and found our bags waiting for us, both the one from Denali, and the one we had last seen on Westerdam. All in all, we were impressed with how well HAL had arranged and carried out all of the logistics of getting us off Westerdam, onto buses, lunch, hotel and tour in Denali, bus, train, bus, etc. and get our bags to the right place at the right time. I know HAL has been in Alaska for 70 years or so and one would think they know what they are doing, but still it was impressive to experience how easy it all was for us passengers.

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 2-4, Anchorage

 

We spent three enjoyable days in Anchorage, just seeing some sights and taking walks. The first day, Aug. 2, was still pretty typical weather – drizzly, cloudy and cool. We decided to walk along the Ship Canal, as we had heard that the salmon were still running.

 

We had a tourist map that was handed out at the hotel (and pretty much everywhere else in downtown Anchorage), and plotted a path downhill to the creek. We only got a check once when we found our way blocked by Alaska Railway no trespassing signs, but a jog to the left toward the Comfort Inn got us to where we could access the creekside trail. We could have taken a free shuttle from the tourist info place near the hotel to the Ulu factory near the trail, but we wanted a good walk as well.

 

We found that indeed the salmon were still running, and the fishermen were trying to catch them, some successfully but most not while we watched. From a footbridge over the creek, we could see the outlines and shadows of the fish in the water. We took a different route back uphill to the downtown area near the Westmark.

 

 

 

 

The next day, the weather was a bit better, and we decided to take an even longer walk, along the Tony Knowles Coastal and Chester Creek trails to rejoin “E” street at 17th Avenue and return to downtown. It was a very nice walk with some good views.

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 2-4, Anchorage (Cont.)

 

On Saturday, Aug. 4, we finally got a chance to get some photos of black and grizzly bears up close!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… at the Alaska Zoo in Anchorage. We took a free shuttle from the side of the tourist info cabin to the zoo. The tourist info place is about three blocks from the hotel.

 

 

 

 

The shuttle runs in the summer, departing the tourist center at 45 minutes after the hour, starting at 9:45 a.m and departs the zoo at 15 minutes after the hour. The shuttle runs until about 6 p.m. I seem to recall, but we took the 9:45 a.m. one to the zoo. The zoo is small, but quite good. It has many of the Alaska animals, as well as some non-native ones like Amur tigers and Bactrian camels. Entry to the zoo was $15, or $10 for seniors/military. We spent a couple of hours touring the zoo and had a snack at the small canteen before catching the shuttle back to town.

 

 

We enjoyed our time in Anchorage. We also dined out at places ranging from hotdog stands to a fine restaurant with views over the water, did some shopping, and generally relaxed.

 

 

More later,

Dave

[Click.Write.Post.]

Aug. 1 (Cont.)

 

 

 

There was a bar with bartender at the front of the upper level, and we could order snacks as well. Those who wished to do so could sign up for lunch in the restaurant below. The train ran two different tabs, one upstairs and one down. Before arriving Anchorage, staff circulated and took credit card payments for the running tabs (no cash accepted).

 

 

 

Here is the menu from upstairs, and a photo of seating in the restaurant. The menu in the restaurant was more extensive, with things like soup, salads, hamburgers and Cuban sandwiches on offer. We both went downstairs for lunch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at the Anchorage train station in the afternoon, and transferred to buses for the short ride to the Westmark Hotel. After we had boarded the bus, HAL emloyees passed out packets with our room keys and itinerary sheet and other info, just as happened at Denali. Since we were staying on after the D2C officially ended, our itinerary was blank, with no airport transfer or excursions.

 

 

 

 

 

We were dropped at the hotel, and we went up to our room and found our bags waiting for us, both the one from Denali, and the one we had last seen on Westerdam. All in all, we were impressed with how well HAL had arranged and carried out all of the logistics of getting us off Westerdam, onto buses, lunch, hotel and tour in Denali, bus, train, bus, etc. and get our bags to the right place at the right time. I know HAL has been in Alaska for 70 years or so and one would think they know what they are doing, but still it was impressive to experience how easy it all was for us passengers.

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

 

Dave

 

 

 

We are enjoying your review. We did the D5L trip a few years (land then cruise on the ms Noordam) and loved our train trip from Denali to Anchorage. We missed out on trying the cinnamon roll on the train menu, so we had one the next day on the train from Anchorage to Seward. As we recall it was very tasty. :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Forums

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 5, embarkation day for Noordam

 

We had arranged with our PCC to add the extra days in Anchorage to our D2C booking, which means our Noordam booking did not include a night before the cruise, but only included a transfer to the ship. We checked with the HAL reps in the hotel, and they told us we could drop our large bags with them to be put on the truck to Seward, but there was no room on the bus direct from the hotel to the ship. Rather, we would have to go to the hospitality room at the Eagan convention center to catch ones of the buses from there. The convention center was only a couple of blocks away, so that was no big problem. We went there about 9 a.m. and checked in, getting cards to board the first bus at 11:45. I was able to check my CPAP bag with the HAL reps so we wouldn’t have to carry it around. We went a couple of blocks to a coffeehouse and had a leisurely cup before returning to the hospitality suite to claim my CPAP and wait for the bus.

 

We were called to the bus on time, and got aboard the same kind of bus that took us to Denali, with the same limited amount of storage space, which easily handled our backpack and CPAP. Unlike before, however, the bus driver did not take oversize carryons, but made the passengers check the bags to be loaded on the luggage truck. One couple had backpacks that were allowed on, but were too stuffed to go into the overhead bins or under the seats, so they had them in their laps all the way to Seward. Bottom line – believe the instructions about what to bring with you; if you bring oversize items you may luck out but you can’t count on it.

 

We drove south under overcast skies and occasional mist. We got to the pier about 3 p.m., and were able to board quickly. Again, our bags were already in our stateroom.

 

We had essentially the same verandah cabin on Noordam as on Westerdam, with only a few décor differences, so I did not take photos. The Noordam cabin still had the small TV and DVD player, but I imagine that will change at the next drydock period.

 

Because people were coming in throughout the afternoon and early evening, sailaway from Seward was set for after 8 p.m., with mandatory boat drill at 7:45. As before, we had been handed the When and Where for today when we boarded. Here are the first four pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 5 (Cont.)

 

Here are the other two pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

And the MDR dinner menu (the dinner menus this cruise are almost identical to the ones on Westerdam):

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 6, at sea

 

Today is a sea day, so again no excursion or scenery photos. Instead, I will post photos of the Noordam Crow’s Nest to contrast with Westerdam’s EXC/Crow’s Nest. One thing about Noordam, though, is that the Explorations Café was never moved to the space – the coffee bar is still on Deck 3. Here are some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I understand that Noordam is supposed to get an EXC in the next long drydock. I just hope they don’t vandalize her quite so extensively.

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 6 (Cont.)

 

Here are the first four pages of today’s When and Where:

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 6 (Cont.)

 

Here are the other two pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

And here is the gala dinner menu for the MDR:

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 7, Glacier Bay

 

I ended my description of visiting Glacier Bay on July 27 with “I imagined it would still be pretty impressive in more typical Alaska weather.” I learned in Lit classes years ago that such a phrase could be something termed “foreshadowing.” Of course you know what is coming. On the return trip to Glacier Bay, we did indeed have more typical weather, with mist, fog and occasional rain. I had taken a bowl of the split pea soup they served on deck in July because I really like that soup, but it was very much more welcome on the return trip on Noordam:

 

 

 

 

We did the same thing as before, picking up Rangers in Icy Strait and then going north up the bay. This time, we went clockwise around the top of the bay, instead of counter-clockwise as we had in Westerdam. We first entered Johns Hopkins Inlet and encountered Lamplugh Glacier. It was, as I thought, still pretty impressive if not as stupendous as in the sunlight.

 

 

 

 

The view of Johns Hopkins Glacier was mostly obscured from the point we could proceed no further because of the seals and their pups, and I was not able to get a usable photo. I did get photos of Marjorie Glacier, though:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 7 (Cont.)

 

Here are the first four pages of today’s When and Where:

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 7 (Cont.)

 

Here are the other two pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

And here is the MDR dinner menu:

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 8, Haines

 

The typical weather continued in Southeast Alaska as we pulled into Haines in a drizzle. Here is a shot of the port and historic Fort Seward on the high ground behind:

 

 

 

 

We had booked an excursion called “Nature and Wildlife Expedition” and headed ashore a few minutes before the meeting time to wait for the group to form. We and everyone else were all trying to huddle under the awnings of the small tourist info building while we waited for our tour guides.

 

We boarded a bus and drove a few miles from Haines to a spot on the Chilkoot River where we hoped to spot bears, or at least eagles and harbor seals. We saw no bears, but did see bald eagles flying as well as a few harbor seals poking their heads above water as they fished for the salmon running up the river.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then drove up the river to its source at Chilkoot Lake for more wildlife looking (and a rustic rest stop).

 

 

 

 

On the way back, we stopped at another spot along the river and were able to see an eagle’s nest with fledglings in it through the powerful scopes the guides had brought, or through our own binoculars. We also saw people fishing for the salmon in the river.

 

 

 

 

We made one more stop to walk on the bridge over the river, again spotting only heads of harbor seals and no bears. But, the day was enjoyable and the scenery beautiful.

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 8 (Cont.)

 

Here are the first four pages of today’s When and Where:

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 8 (Cont.)

 

Here are the other two pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

And, here is the MDR dinner menu:

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 9, Juneau

 

The weather system kept following us as we proceeded down Southeast Alaska, and Juneau was also rainy when we arrived:

 

 

 

 

Luckily we had decided to go to the Mendenhall Glacier in July instead of August, because it would have not been as pleasant on the trails. For today, we had booked an excursion called “Whalewatching and Wildlife Quest.” We went ashore a few minutes before our meeting time, as did people for a lot of the excursions. Luckily, there was a large overhead covering we could huddle under in front of the bus loading area while we waited for our buses to be called.

 

We got on ours, and drove through Juneau north, past the turn for Mendenhall, to an area called Auke Bay, where we boarded our sightseeing boat. This was similar to the boat we took in Kethikan, but had some inside seating upstairs and a smaller outdoor viewing area. We, and most of the rest of our fellow passengers, took seats downstairs.

 

We went around the waters near Juneau, looking for, and finding, humpback whales, harbor seals, Steller sealions and other wildlife. The windows were rain-spattered, but a crew member took a squeegee to them at one point and we were able to see better. Here are some photos I took of the sealions, and a humpback:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This tour was worth taking, even in the rain, because the wildlife is used to it and you can see them. However, once we got back, we did not linger in town, but went straight back aboard the Noordam. But, I did buy something on the sightseeing boat. They passed around some crackers with samples of smoked salmon on them. This was not the almost-raw with a slight tinge of smoke lox that everyone knows – this was the alder-smoked salmon that was like what as a teen I used to make with an old fridge and an electric skillet to hold the alder chips. This salmon was cooked through and much more flavorful to my taste than lox. So, I bought a box of the Tonka Seafoods smoked sockeye salmon from the onboard snack bar. The ingredient list was simple: salmon, salt, alder smoke. It was in a sealed pouch inside the box and would last months until opened.

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 9 (Cont.)

 

Here are the first four pages of today’s When and Where:

 

 

 

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 9 (Cont.)

 

Here are the other two pages of the When and Where:

 

 

 

 

And, here is the MDR dinner menu:

 

 

 

More later,

Dave

[RetiredMustang]

Aug. 10, Ketchikan

 

The weather finally broke and it was sunny in Ketchikan! The bad news was that we were assigned to berth 4, quite a bit north of the central dock area. There were shops and a restaurant near our berth, and we could walk south to the main port area, but the area to the north did not have much close.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A lot of the crew had been looking forward to this port, because the town ran a free shuttle from the port to Walmart! We saw lots of buses and going with crewmembers on board, and coming back with crewmembers carrying a lot of shopping bags.

 

We had not booked a shore excursion for this time in Ketchikan and had thought just to walk about. Since we were at berth 4, we decided to walk north to see what we could see. There were sidewalks and we passed a flightseeing business, some docks, a couple of restaurants, and a bit less than a mile up the shore, a small mall, McDonald’s and a Safeway. We popped in the Safeway and got some snacks, and then walked back to the ship. We checked out the shops near the ship, and I discovered that I could have bought boxes of the Tonka smoked salmon there as well.

 

More later,

Dave