2023 February 14 Coastal Northern Lights voyage...Oslo to Bergen by rail? And other questions

[Flyinby]

Went back and forth between Hurtigruten and Havila, finally decided to give the new guys a chance and booked with Havila for the round trip coastal on the Capella Feb. 14 2023.  The prices seem good and we liked the choice of cabins, and Havila has been good at responding to questions.

So we are thinking of flying to Oslo and taking the train to Bergen...possibly also returning by train to Oslo for the flight back, but that's unknown right now.  Is it worth taking this train in mid-winter?  The photos look like it is, but that brings another question: should we get off in Myrdal and take the Flam railway to Flam, perhaps spend a night there, then back to Myrdal to re-board the Bergen train?

Also, for a couple of older folks, both physically capable but not looking for strenuous winter activities, how much time should we spend in Oslo and in Bergen?  2-3 full days, or is that better left to a future visit with more late-springlike weather?  Any things we shouldn't miss?  Or should?  I imagine we'll return in the near future for a late spring or fall visit, so we don't have to see things that may be better experienced then.

 

Looking forward to the Havila coastal voyage...the small, less-touristy towns, winter scenery, a few yet-to-be-determined excursions, and of course, hopefully the northern lights in person.  We're likely to give Hurtigruten a try in some other future trips, and if this one falls through we will probably do a coastal with them, but it seems kind of exciting with Havila just getting going, to (we hope) be a part of it.

[hallasm]

Your post indicates that you have prepared well.  I have not sailed with Havila yet but as soon as this pandemic is over I will book a trip.  Brand new and well-appointed ships.  Havila crews come from Hurtigruten. 
It is absolutely breathtaking to travel by train from Oslo to Bergen and a stop - possibly with accommodation in Flåm or Myrdal is a great option - just think about the amount of luggage.  It is possible to have luggage sent from a hotel in Oslo to a hotel in Bergen.
Both Oslo and Bergen are relatively small cities - two to three days will certainly be enough.  There is not necessarily much snow in Oslo and Bergen.  In Oslo find a hotel close to Oslo Central Station and in Bergen close to Bryggen Wharf.
Expect that it can be pretty cold, snow and ice.  Warm clothes, layers, windproof outerwear and good waterproof footwear.  On coastal route ships there is no formal suit for dinners - same clothes all day. It’s warm on-site the ships but very cold watching the Northern Lights on open decks at sea during night.
Since a Norwegian Coastal Voyage is a very different experience from a standard cruise, it is important to get answers to all questions.
You must also include in your planning that it is winter and this can mean delays due to the weather.  But it is something you are used to deal with in Norway.

it will be an enjoyable trip.

[grayjay]

Sounds like a great trip! We're also planning to try Havila some time, especially when the other ships being built are finally ready to go.

I'd suggest staying for one more night in Bergen after finishing the trip before leaving again to take the train to Oslo. If there are difficulties in reaching Bergen punctually ( happens in winter!) you are one the safe side. You'll also be able to see the tour in daylight again - which is absolutely breath-taking!!

I'd also advise you to book Comfort Class, only a bit more but with free drinks and nicer seats.

[GeezerCouple]

I'm more than a bit late here, but your cruise isn't until next February (2023) so...

 

We took this Coastal RT (on Hurtigruten; we were on Trollfjord) in late February/early March a few years ago.  WONDERFUL!

 

After lots of reading here and elsewhere (thanks to all posters, very much!), we decided to take the Oslo to Bergen train.  We used Comfort class, which was very nice, but I have no comparison to the regular seats.

 

We were waiting for all of this absolutely spectacular scenery.  And... there was city, then sort of suburbs, then less populated, etc.  Nice enough countryside, but "spectacular scenery"?  After a while, we looked at each other, wondering...

AND THEN....!  Try to sit on the south side of the train, and do try to get the middle in daylight if at all possible.  (If there's a choice, have the Oslo end in darkness, not the Bergen end.)

We sat on the north side of the train; we wanted to sit near a good window (the seat map did seem to show that well), so we chose north side rather than something like the back of the car.  And our view was great, but it would have been a bit better sitting on the southern side of the train (left side heading out of Oslo).

 

There is THE spectacular scenery where it seemed like we were in some other-worldly location.  Unending white snow, but that does not adequately describe it.  Just gorgeous.  We are SO glad that we did enough reading to know to take that train!

 

We stayed a couple of days in Oslo first, at the Oslo Grand Hotel (I think), overlooking Parliament building and the square.  Much to our surprise, mid day once, there was a small "demonstration". I don't know what they were demonstrating about.  It was very peaceful, no surprise (I hope that's no surprise), but it was very interesting to watch.

Especially when we are in a city that we may never get to again (and all the better if we do!), we try to stay at some special place with a good view... of the city, some special site/sight, or waterfront, etc.  So we had a prime view of the square. 🙂

 

[There can be terrific surprises with that strategy.  In Venice, we had a nice room/view overlooking the Grand Canal.  One day, we glanced out the window before heading out, and... there was some odd activity on the Canal.  We went downstairs to inquire.  We had managed to be there for the equivalent of their "bathtub" race" (our term), a huge affair.  That's when folks trot out any old "thing" to float along and paddle, but preferably not simple boats. One person was on a surfboard, paddling along.  There were some hilarious things, and some people in them in costumes.  It was total luck on our part.  We were very near St. Marks, so we had a direct view of the "finish line", where there was a small float in the middle of the Grand Canal, where they appeared to be giving out "awards for finishing" or such.  We knew about the more formal race at a different time of year, and still hope to go back for that.  But we've stumbled across a wonderful variety of unexpected things/events, and we feel very fortunate.  FUN!]

 

We saw the Northern Lights, sort of.  Do keep in mind that usually, "what people see with naked eyes" is NOT what the photos show.  Cameras pick up much, MUCH more in terms of the vivid colors, etc.  We were very glad we were prepared for that, so we were delighted to see what we did see, rather than being disappointed.

 

We took a special "Astronomy" cruise, where there was an astonomer on board, and he was a terrific speaker.

 

About on deck at night looking at the Lights?  No matter how much we had read, we were NOT prepared for the absolute COLD including the wind while sailing.  It was BRUTAL.  I had a new super-ultra-deluxe-extra-heavy-duty (you get the idea) expedition parka.  But we heard there were "LIGHTS" and we didn't waste time putting on our water/wind proof/resistant pants over our regular pants.  Big mistake.  Huge!  It didn't take long at all for my legs to start feeling unbelievably cold.  Really!  (When younger, I camped out in winter/snow conditions in a pup tent. This was not that!  Not even close.)

Fortunately, we had an aft balcony.  So instead of piling on more clothing, we realized that the position of the lights and the ship was such that we could see them from our own balcony, so down we headed.  We were almost totally protected from the wind, and it was glorious.

 

If this dratted 'plague'(!!) will ever end, we can't wait to get back to cruising and traveling more generally.  (We are older and very high risk, so we are still hunkered down at home, alas.)

We do want to take this cruise again.  The northbound and southbound directions pretty much alternate day/night in the same ports at spring/fall times.  We'd love to experience Arctic summer, but... the snow in the scenery was soooo beautiful.

 

Enjoy!

 

GC

[Flyinby]

A very late but huge "thanks" for your detailed reply, which I missed earlier.  It will be a great help in what we can expect, assuming all goes well, and the tips on the train ride are great.

 

With the ups and downs Havila has had with their ships, I was somewhat concerned, but fortunately we booked so far ahead it seems to have worked itself out.  With a bit over 6 months to go, we have some extra time to stock up on warm clothes and layers, after reading your post.  Kind of exciting to be on the new/newer ships also...I know the Capella is their "oldest" one, but they look great, at least on the website.

 

Re the northern lights not being quite as vivid as photos show them, I didn't know that, but when I used to go each year to Yosemite for the moonbow, it was the same situation.  The photos were far more vivid than we'd see with the naked eye, but now, in the memories, the bright vivid moonbow in the photos are what we 'remember' seeing.

 

Thanks again for your great response and the tips on the trip...we're looking forward to it!

[grayjay]

And we'll all be waiting for a review.....😉 It would be great to read about your experiences.

On a German forum I read quite often there were very favourable reviews of the new Havila ships regarding accommodation and food.

So we decided to book the coastal journey for the fall months of 2023...

Have a great trip, Flyinby!

[Flyinby]

On 1/18/2023 at 10:35 AM, grayjay said:

And we'll all be waiting for a review.....😉 It would be great to read about your experiences.

On a German forum I read quite often there were very favourable reviews of the new Havila ships regarding accommodation and food.

So we decided to book the coastal journey for the fall months of 2023...

Have a great trip, Flyinby!

Thanks, we're really looking forward to and getting excited about the trip...now only about 2 weeks before we leave for Oslo.

 

Having booked nearly a year ago, we've had plenty of time to prepare for the winter in Norway...now we just have to sort what to actually take.  If we took and wore all the layers we've accumulated, we'd be rolling around the ship like balls 8^)

 

We did find a porter service to pick up our luggage in Oslo and deliver it to our Bergen hotel...we're taking the train to Flam, spending a night, then continuing to Bergen, and so will only need the carry-on for that.  With everything booked now in advance, I won't have to be sticking my nose in a laptop or phone much on the trip...except maybe to translate or find our way around.  With a half dozen excursions, I don't think we'll be bored, but hated to pass up this opportunity.  Gondolas, dog sleds, North Cape, Russian border etc., should be fun.

 

Will definitely report back as soon as I can after we return.

[hallasm]

Thank you for your update. Enjoy the train, Flåm, Bergen and the coastal voyage.

[grayjay]

13 hours ago, Flyinby said:

We did find a porter service to pick up our luggage in Oslo and deliver it to our Bergen hotel...

Would you mind sharing this porter service? I'm afraid of shlepping all that luggage ourselves - we have booked a hotel in Oslo before boarding the train to Bergen but won't stay in a hotel in Bergen before starting on our Havila experience in September.

And - most important - best wishes for a grand experience with lots of fun, enjoyable meals and trips, northern lights every night.

[Flyinby]

15 minutes ago, grayjay said:

Would you mind sharing this porter service? I'm afraid of shlepping all that luggage ourselves - we have booked a hotel in Oslo before boarding the train to Bergen but won't stay in a hotel in Bergen before starting on our Havila experience in September.

And - most important - best wishes for a grand experience with lots of fun, enjoyable meals and trips, northern lights every night.

The porter service is https://porterservice.frb.io/ or email at porter@porterservice.no .

Sounds like they've been around for some time, and they replied promptly...picking up our luggage both from and back to Oslo, in the morning at the hotel before we leave on the train.  The site does say they can deliver to private apartments or airb&b's, so possibly they can take your luggage directly to Havila (?).  The cost seems fair enough, considering what they do and how much it will make things easier.

[oakridger]

I am going to travel on Havila also but not until June of 2024.  I like planning ahead!  @Flyinbyanswered my question yesterday on the "Other Cruise Lines" forum in a thread titled "Havila Capella".  I'm deciding on my cabin location.  

 

I appreciate everyone sharing their personal experience here on Cruise Critic since there is very little information online and YouTube about Havila yet.  All of the previous info about the port stops and Norway in general on this Hurtigruten forum is very helpful as well (kudos especially to @hallasm).  I loved Hurtigruten way back in 2005 and would happily travel with them again but wanted to give the new ships a try this time!! 

 

I'm looking forward to hearing all your experiences.

 

~Nancy

[hallasm]

7 hours ago, oakridger said:

I loved Hurtigruten way back in 2005 and would happily travel with them again but wanted to give the new ships a try this time!!

I had planned a trip with Havila myself, but due to Corona and Havila's start-up problems and delays, I have not yet traveled with them.  
Unfortunately not much information yet about Havila ships but these are brand new ships and the crews come from Hurtigruten, so my expectations will be high.

[grayjay]

On 1/23/2023 at 7:53 PM, Flyinby said:

The porter service is https://porterservice.frb.io

Thank you for the address!

Unfortunately I don't know if there are any reviews for Havila ships yet on English-speaking sites, and I don't use Facebook etc. either.

There is a German cruise forum hurtigforum dot de that has quite a lot of very positive reviews on the new ships and the coastal journey, they also offer English as a language on the homepage but I haven't tried it , yet.

[oakridger]

Thank you @grayjay.  I'll access the handy Google Translate function and look at the German site.

 

~Nancy

[Flyinby]

On 1/24/2023 at 12:08 PM, grayjay said:

There is a German cruise forum hurtigforum dot de that has quite a lot of very positive reviews on the new ships and the coastal journey, they also offer English as a language on the homepage but I haven't tried it , yet.

Thanks, Grayjay for the hurtigforum suggestion, I had never heard of it, but there's lots of good information and reviews with photos.

 

The site does offer English as an alternative, but that doesn't make the forum posts in English, only the web page itself.  Though I speak some German, I keep running into words I don't know, but I tried Google translate, and it does a pretty decent job of translating the entire pages.  There are some limitations, but not bad.  I kept wondering why they kept referring to "mountains" as though it were a location (as in "I went from Mountains to Oslo...") until I thought about it...Bergen, German for mountains...no wonder 8^).

 

And, you do have to switch back to the original German to view the photos, or follow links, but that's not so bad, and the members there are definitely well-experienced on the route and also with Havila.  Thanks again.

[grayjay]

You're very welcome!