Day trip to Florence (from Rome)

[Scottee25]

We are staying in Rome for 8 nights post cruise this upcoming May. One of those days we are planning a day trip to Florence. I have a handful of questions that I am hoping some of you can help answer.

 

We are planning to make this day trip on Friday, May 13, 2022. I have reviewed the train schedule for Trenitalia and we plan to take the earliest train to Florence and the latest train back to Rome. How punctual are the high speed trains in Italy? The earliest train is scheduled to leave Roma Termini at 5:35AM and arrive in Florence at 7:10AM. We plan to climb the dome first and would prefer to purchase the 8:15-9AM time slot. The walk from the station to the cathedral looks to be 10-15 minutes so not far at all. This seems quite doable but but would love to know your thoughts.

 

As far as the time slots for Brunelleschi’s Dome, what exactly does that time slot signify? For instance, with the 8:15-9AM time slot, does that mean that I can show up anytime in that range? Or does it mean I only have that 45 minute range to visit the dome? The former, rather than the latter, seems like the more logical choice but the last time I did the dome climb was in 2003 and tickets did not need to be purchased ahead of time. You simply just waited in line. If we have until 9AM to get in line, then my first question about trains being on time really won't be as important.

 

There are a few other places we plan to visit while in Florence, most notably Accademia. Due to the time of year we will be visiting, is there really a need to pre-purchase our tickets? I would prefer not to since I don't know what time we will be done at the dome and don't want to run the risk of missing our time slot or rushing and cutting our visit of the dome short in order to make our time slot. When I look on the sites I know that list what ships are in port on a given day, I don't show any ships in port in either Livorno nor La Spezia so we wouldn't have to contend with cruise passengers. Do you think we should be ok just buying our tickets to Accademia once we arrive there?

 

We are also looking to have dinner in Florence before taking the train back to Rome. We are currently considering a few places to get some Florentine steak. It looks like some places don't open until 6 or 7PM. The last train to Rome leaves at 9:10PM. What should our expectations be for how long dinner should take? Is it realistic to think we can get dinner at 6 or 7 and still make the 9:10PM train?

[cruisemom42]

I can't answer all of your questions, but can help with a few of them.

 

The fast trains in general are very much run on schedule. Of course they may be the odd few minutes behind but in general are quite dependable.

 

I haven't ever climbed the dome because I am a bit claustrophobic. However, I always thought that the time slot was for the entire experience and that everyone goes up in a group, like at the leaning tower in Pisa. I know I've read that you should arrive in advance of your scheduled time and be ready to go.

 

I hate to be discouraging, but May in Florence is already going to be quite crowded. Just as a point of reference, the most recent time I was there was the last week of November 2018. My son and I bought the Firenze card (http://www.firenzecard.it/en) and I know for certain that we were able to skip a LONG line of folks waiting at the Accademia for entrance. However, I don't know if you'd get enough use out of it in a single day, and also I believe the card is still "on pause" due to COVID.

 

If you can manage to find a restaurant that opens at 6pm, you shouldn't have a problem with your return. But I can't think of a single restaurant I've eaten at in Florence that opens before 7:00 pm or even 7:30 pm. And I think that would be a stretch. Dining in Italy tends to be a leisurely affair. It would be terrible if you couldn't relax and enjoy your dinner because you had to keep an eye on the clock the entire time....

 

Do you have any restaurants in mind?

 

[euro cruiser]

Where are you getting your train schedules?  I see the last return on Trenitalia from S.M.Novella to Termini departing at 22:14 (10:14 PM) and arriving at 23:49 (Frecciarossa 9567).

 

Check Italotreno as well as Trenitalia.  It doesn't help with time (first train is at 5:40, arriving 7:17, last return is 20:40, arriving 22:17) but you might get a better price on the outbound, same time train.  There is no benefit to purchasing both directions from one supplier and each offer the same service.

 

Sorry I can't help with the Duomo question, I've climbed it several times but all before the current time slot process was set up.

 

Believe it or not, cruise ships are such a small drop in the bucket of daily visitors to Florence that I think you'd have a hard time noticing the difference.  It will be heaving with people regardless.  I would allow a couple of hours after your duomo cupola time before a reservation at the Accademia.  You won't need all of that for the dome but it provides pad and you can use that time to visit the Duomo, check out the doors of the Baptistry, etc.

[Scottee25]

10 hours ago, euro cruiser said:

Where are you getting your train schedules?  I see the last return on Trenitalia from S.M.Novella to Termini departing at 22:14 (10:14 PM) and arriving at 23:49 (Frecciarossa 9567).

 

Check Italotreno as well as Trenitalia.  It doesn't help with time (first train is at 5:40, arriving 7:17, last return is 20:40, arriving 22:17) but you might get a better price on the outbound, same time train.  There is no benefit to purchasing both directions from one supplier and each offer the same service.

 

I made a mistake on the return train. Turns out I was looking at the last train from Rome to Florence rather than vice versa. I see the later return train and have updated my documentation with that later train. I have also looked at Italotreno. I have both their app and Trenitalia's app installed on my phone. We aren't so much concerned with cost as we will most likely be booking Business Class on the trains for the larger, more comfortable seating where my girlfriend and I can sit across from one another without having to sit next to anyone else. In the end, we'll book whichever works best for us.

 

10 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

If you can manage to find a restaurant that opens at 6pm, you shouldn't have a problem with your return. But I can't think of a single restaurant I've eaten at in Florence that opens before 7:00 pm or even 7:30 pm. And I think that would be a stretch. Dining in Italy tends to be a leisurely affair. It would be terrible if you couldn't relax and enjoy your dinner because you had to keep an eye on the clock the entire time....

 

Do you have any restaurants in mind?

 

 

I pretty much just Googled "Florentine steak in Florence" and started looking through the results.  The first two that come up are l'Tuscani 2 (opens at 6PM) and l'Tuscani Dante  (Opens at 7PM). Both have really reviews. My girlfriend is the one who follows people on Instagram who live in the city so she'll see if they have recommended any places. Based on Euro Cruiser pointing out I was looking at the wrong return train, we can actually stay until later. I was pretty much under the impression that dining in Florence would be a lot different than what I am used to here in the states and would need a bit more time 🙂 Hoping with this extra hour, we are able to enjoy the experience before taking the train back to Rome.

 

I'll heed the advice from both of you regarding how busy it will be and buy tickets to other locations with a time slot beforehand giving ourselves more buffer time to ensure we get to enjoy each place we visit.

 

This does lead me to another question, however. Taking the 10:14PM train back to Rome, we won't arrive in Rome until close to midnight. Should it there still be taxis at Roma Termini that time of night?

[cruisemom42]

7 minutes ago, Scottee25 said:

This does lead me to another question, however. Taking the 10:14PM train back to Rome, we won't arrive in Rome until close to midnight. Should it there still be taxis at Roma Termini that time of night?

 

Yes, definitely. I arrived back from Ravenna at about that time a couple of years ago and there were plenty of taxis waiting.  (And more of a line waiting for them than I would have thought at that time of night...)

 

 

[Scottee25]

40 minutes ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Yes, definitely. I arrived back from Ravenna at about that time a couple of years ago and there were plenty of taxis waiting.  (And more of a line waiting for them than I would have thought at that time of night...)

 

 

 

Thank you very much! As always you all here are so very helpful! 

[slidergirl]

Hmmm.  You can try and get a reservation at Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco - according to their page, they open for dinner at 6:30pm.  The other places I was thinking of open at 7:30 (Sostanza) or 7 (Trattoria Mario).   You absolutely need a reservation at Sostanza as they only do 2 seatings in the evening.  

[Scottee25]

5 hours ago, slidergirl said:

Hmmm.  You can try and get a reservation at Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco - according to their page, they open for dinner at 6:30pm.  The other places I was thinking of open at 7:30 (Sostanza) or 7 (Trattoria Mario).   You absolutely need a reservation at Sostanza as they only do 2 seatings in the evening.  

 

Thank you for the recommendations. I will definitely send them to my girlfriend as she is the foodie. I am more of the type that if you bring me part of a dead animal and a starch, I am good to go 🙂 Looking through these places, Sostanza may not be the best choice for us as it appears, based on the pictures on Google, that they don't take credit cards. I didn't want to carry a ton of cash on me if I don't need to. We still have almost 5 weeks before we will be in Florence so that gives her some time to find a place.

[cruisemom42]

13 hours ago, Scottee25 said:

 

Thank you for the recommendations. I will definitely send them to my girlfriend as she is the foodie. I am more of the type that if you bring me part of a dead animal and a starch, I am good to go 🙂 Looking through these places, Sostanza may not be the best choice for us as it appears, based on the pictures on Google, that they don't take credit cards. I didn't want to carry a ton of cash on me if I don't need to. We still have almost 5 weeks before we will be in Florence so that gives her some time to find a place.

 

Whatever you do, don't go to Tripadvisor for restaurant suggestions, they are the worst!

 

Chowhound used to offer good suggestions -- I remember several long and detailed threads on Florence. But unfortunately they are getting rather dated....

 

[Scottee25]

40 minutes ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Whatever you do, don't go to Tripadvisor for restaurant suggestions, they are the worst!

 

Chowhound used to offer good suggestions -- I remember several long and detailed threads on Florence. But unfortunately they are getting rather dated....

 

Ironically one of the places that had good reviews on Google also had a Tripadvisor award. What makes Tripadvisor bad for the restaurant suggestions? Is it the reviews people leave? We know we may have to go to a place that caters more to tourists based on our time constraints but still want to get the experience 🙂 I am not familiar with Chowhound. I'll definitely pass that suggestion onto my girlfriend. Thank you!

[cruisemom42]

2 hours ago, Scottee25 said:

Ironically one of the places that had good reviews on Google also had a Tripadvisor award. What makes Tripadvisor bad for the restaurant suggestions? Is it the reviews people leave? We know we may have to go to a place that caters more to tourists based on our time constraints but still want to get the experience 🙂 I am not familiar with Chowhound. I'll definitely pass that suggestion onto my girlfriend. Thank you!

 

It's just my own experience maybe, but a lot of the reviews on Tripadvisor aren't provided by locals but by tourists who have spent limited time in the destination place and have little sense of how the place they are rating compares with what else is available. 

 

One issue I have with TA is language -- they tend to show you only results in your own native language, which makes sense. But with Google translate so easy to use, one can also easily read through recommendations from more locals -- and often the two sets of comments are radically different.

 

For example there is a restaurant that many posters (on this very board but also on TA) rave about where a particular tour company tends to bring people for lunch on their Amalfi Coast excursions. The tourists/passengers often rave about it. But if you go in and read reviews from locals, or at least from those of the same nationality who are staying in the area, the reviews for this restaurant are much more average...

 

For further proof, check out a 'foodie' guide such as Eater and see how their suggestions for top restaurants in Florence have very little correspondence with TripAdvisor's top listings:

 

The 36 Essential Florence Restaurants (eater.com)

 

(I'd trust Eater FAR more...)

[slidergirl]

4 hours ago, cruisemom42 said:

 

Whatever you do, don't go to Tripadvisor for restaurant suggestions, they are the worst!

 

Chowhound used to offer good suggestions -- I remember several long and detailed threads on Florence. But unfortunately they are getting rather dated....

 

And more unfortunately, Chowhound is no more.  I just found that out yesterday 😢

Yep, Sostanza is cash-only.   If you GF is a foodie, definitely try for Cinghale Bianco.  My friends wanted to take me the last time we were in Florence, but it was closed that day.   I'm absolutely going to it in July when I'm there.   I know that Cinghale Bianco is getting hoards of people having watched it on Stanley Tucci's show now.  But, I knew about it years before that and I still want to go. 

Tripadvisor is mass-consumption recommendations of usually tourist-quality food.  If you want a restaurant that is crowded with tourists, look there.    I did find a good sandwich/charcuterie from TA - La Proscuitteria.  Not a restaurant (they make that clear), but a "deli" that makes yummy sandwiches and really good charcuterie boards that you can enjoy with a glass of wine.  since it's not a restaurant, there is like 1 table and a wall shelf where you can put your food as you eat.  I'll go there again for a pick-me-up.   I'll use TA for little places, but not for dining.  And, from experience, TA will edit reviews.  Some less-than-ethical places (hotels and restaurants) will have their employees post "reviews."  

I looked at some sites of people I've trusted in the past and some sites I've learned about and it's hard to find something open before 7pm if you don't want lunch, but here is a few for you to research:

 

Trattoria Camillo

Trattoria Marione

 

If you want a nice place to go have a evening drink before leaving, go to the Westin and up to it's rooftop bar, SE STO.  Not cheap drinks, but a fantastic view.  

 

Instead of looking at TA, go a Google search for "best restaurants in Florence" and then research from there.  

Edited April 11, 2022 by slidergirl

[cruisemom42]

1 hour ago, slidergirl said:

Tripadvisor is mass-consumption recommendations of usually tourist-quality food.  If you want a restaurant that is crowded with tourists, look there.   

 

1 hour ago, slidergirl said:

Instead of looking at TA, go a Google search for "best restaurants in Florence" and then research from there.  

 

Looks like we were posting at the same time but also same messaging. 😃

[euro cruiser]

Or limit your TA reviews to only the Italian language responses.

[marazul]

I agree about the TA reviews.  They are definitely tourist oriented.  For example, in Nice the top one is usually a gelateria and it ignores the many wonderful bistros in the area.

For Italy I like to look in the Gambero Rosso (red shrimp) website and look for its awards and selections.  It is the equivalent of the Michelin Guide. 

BTW, Trattoria Camillo and Buca dell'Orafo have been two of our favorites for years.

Edited April 11, 2022 by marazul

[slidergirl]

2 hours ago, marazul said:

I agree about the TA reviews.  They are definitely tourist oriented.  For example, in Nice the top one is usually a gelateria and it ignores the many wonderful bistros in the area.

For Italy I like to look in the Gambero Rosso (red shrimp) website and look for its awards and selections.  It is the equivalent of the Michelin Guide. 

BTW, Trattoria Camillo and Buca dell'Orafo have been two of our favorites for years.

I totally forgot about Gambero Rosso!!!  

I may have to put those on my "must eat" places this time.    I feel like I have to add another 2 weeks to my trip!!!  My grand-niece would be a little peeved that I was blowing off her wedding to eat food in Florence, though. 🙀

[Scottee25]

5 hours ago, slidergirl said:

Instead of looking at TA, go a Google search for "best restaurants in Florence" and then research from there. 

 

All my searching up to now has been on Google. I only mentioned Tripadvisor because Cruisemom brought it up. I have passed the link to this thread onto my girlfriend so she can pursue the search. Like I said... dead animal + starch = happy me 🙂 I am sure she will definitely look into something featured on Stanley Tucci's show since she is a fan. Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions!

[iancal]

We have travelled by train in Italy numerous times over the year.  You can rely on the scheds.  Sure, there are occasional strikes but these are few, far between, an usually well know two day ahead of time.

 

We always make reservations if we are going to the museums.  Why not?

 

We really enjoy Florence in the evening as the sun sets.  Seems like the city slows down a little. We have had a few meals in Fiesole, a small town overlooking Florence, at sunset.  It is a short ride on the public bus or by taxi.

 

Like many places...stay long enough to enjoy the city after the day trippers have left.  We find it to be a different environment after that.

Edited April 13, 2022 by iancal

[Scottee25]

15 hours ago, iancal said:

We always make reservations if we are going to the museums.  Why not?

 

With limited time in the city that day, the concern was that we would get done with one activity sooner than we expect and then would had a significant time to wait before entry into the next place. Totally understand we can simply walk around and admire the sites but want to make best use of our time. As a result, we have scheduled a few events in the morning with timed entrances and then will play the afternoon by ear.

 

15 hours ago, iancal said:

We really enjoy Florence in the evening as the sun sets.  Seems like the city slows down a little. We have had a few meals in Fiesole, a small town overlooking Florence, at sunset.  It is a short ride on the public bus or by taxi.

 

Like many places...stay long enough to enjoy the city after the day trippers have left.  We find it to be a different environment after that.

 

We will be one of those day trippers. We have a hotel booked in Rome and a majority of our time will be spent there. We decided to take day trips to Naples and Florence when our Rome stay extended from 6 nights to 8 nights. I have been to all 3 cities before but my girlfriend has not. So we made a compromise... we would see a few of the key "must see" sites, as well as, a few things I wanted to see the last time I was there but didn't get a chance to see. 

[iancal]

1 minute ago, Scottee25 said:

 

With limited time in the city that day, the concern was that we would get done with one activity sooner than we expect and then would had a significant time to wait before entry into the next place. Totally understand we can simply walk around and admire the sites but want to make best use of our time. As a result, we have scheduled a few events in the morning with timed entrances and then will play the afternoon by ear.

 

 

We will be one of those day trippers. We have a hotel booked in Rome and a majority of our time will be spent there. We decided to take day trips to Naples and Florence when our Rome stay extended from 6 nights to 8 nights. I have been to all 3 cities before but my girlfriend has not. So we made a compromise... we would see a few of the key "must see" sites, as well as, a few things I wanted to see the last time I was there but didn't get a chance to see. 

Take the last or second last train back to Rome!  

 

If we are going to the museums we always reserve ahead of time. Even if we are there for several days.   It can save lining up for an hour or two.

Edited April 13, 2022 by iancal

[Scottee25]

59 minutes ago, iancal said:

Take the last or second last train back to Rome!  

 

If we are going to the museums we always reserve ahead of time. Even if we are there for several days.   It can save lining up for an hour or two.

 

I have already purchased our tickets on the last train back to Rome leaving at approx 10:15 🙂 

[iancal]

8 minutes ago, Scottee25 said:

 

I have already purchased our tickets on the last train back to Rome leaving at approx 10:15 🙂 

Bravo.  You will have, what we consider to be, the most enjoyable part of the day in Florence.   After 4:30 or so when we stop for a glass of the grape,  and 9:30 or so.  Crowds are down,  lighting is incredibly soft, and the the city seems to slow down.  Sidewalk dining  around  8ish  people watching.  Wonderful.

Edited April 13, 2022 by iancal