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Nautica Impressions HKG to ATH


JackfromWA

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I am so glad to hear a positive experience from te Princess. Enjoy.

 

We are taking the Diamond Princess in September from Vancouver, through Alaska and then across to Vladivostok, many Asian ports and finishing in Bangkok. After that we're going to Angkor Wat on our own. Have been to most places before and the Laotian Highlands are "heavenly", but this will be the first time in Cambodia.

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Happy Belated Birthday, and I hope you feel better. You are having much too much fun to be uncomfortable. Besides, I'm sure I speak for all who are reading your reports, that they are wonderful and we're loving your narative.

 

Try Toscana too. Very different from Polo, and most enjoyable.

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We usually take taxi tours in the cities we visit. It is convenient, private, comfortable and flexible, that is as long as you can easily get one. The prices ranged from 60 euros per hour in Monaco to 50 euros in France to 30 euros in Italy (200+ euros for the whole day) a few years ago. In Australia and New Zealand, it was A$50 and NZ$50 respectively. Even in Mexico, it was US$30 per hour. So the price of US$10 per hour in Vietnam is amazing.

 

There is the question of safety though. In some countries, it just may not be safe to haul down a taxi and ride in it. There is the chance of your being taken to some back alley and robbed, or worse. Is there any such concerns in the countries of your voyage?

 

Another thing is the local food. Is it safe to eat, as sanitary standards are not the same as ours. Of course, you should take the necessary shots before you leave home. Consideration of safety and security is one reason that for the more exotic destinations, taking a cruise may be more desirable than a land trip. You can always eat on the ship, take bottled water from the ship with you when you land, and if necessary follow the ship's tour. Indeed, several postings in the past recommended just that for St. Petersburg, for example. How about the Southeast Asian ports?

 

This narrative has been very interesting, no less than reading "The Adventures of Tom Sawyer". I am sure it is very helpful to those planning on trips to that area of the world. Thank you kindly for your effort.

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Hi all,

Jack..glad you liked the massage..I didnt get a guy doing that to me..LOL

I love reading your reports..I compare them to my experiences..Yesterday we too a car ,driver and guide..the guide works at the Rex part time and goes to college part time to learn the hospitality industry..We had a short day as it was so hot and Stu tends to get tired..Andy (guide) took us to the Laquer factory at our request and we spent hours there picking out gifts..they have the most beautiful things all hand made..Next we went to the flower market..I think we were the only Americans to ever set foot there..and Stu and I bought 2 dozen red roses in a beautiful arrangement for $2..the prices are absolutely amazing. I love Vietnam and hope to get back again some day for a longer time!!Today is at sea and the laundry room is a zoo..so I guess I will wait for a day or two..Today there is a brunch from 10am to 1pm with Pancakes waffles etc. since I am TRYING to watch my weight we will pass..Stu is at a cooking demonstration that our friend Wolfgang is giving..so I am sure he will try it out on me wheen we return home!! I am off to the pool are to read..hi to all..

Mike say hi to Carol for me and I look forward to seeing you on our return to the desert..

Jan

*****

CCC

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Wow, you live in Marbella in the summer! It's pretty darned hot there too, but I guess you don't miss the humidity! How is Marbella these days? I had the pleasure of living there for about 6 weeks in 1971, and it was beginning to be a jet-set resort even there (the Marbella Club.) Is the old town still intact and lovely? I had a chance to go back last summer, and decided to go to Granada instead, maybe next time.

 

 

 

 

 

The 70's WERE an amazing decade in Marbella,now very different though still considerably more upmarket than many other resort towns in Spain and the Old Town/Orange Square are still unspoilt,also the yacht harbour Jose Banus is quite an attraction.

 

You are correct the dry heat is great after Phuket's sometime sauna like temparatures.

 

Sawasdee and adios !

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Mike say hi to Carol for me and I look forward to seeing you on our return to the desert..

Jan

*****

CCC

 

Sounds great, Jan - please call, as I would love to discuss my CruiseOne venture with you. I leave for training in Ft. Lauderdale on May 3.

 

And .. Did Stu recite the 4 questions;)

 

Mike

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What a day today..it is 6:00pm and I am in the business center of the Shangra La Hotel..last night and this am no internet on board ship..At 9 am had a driver (great guy named Nick) pick 4 of us up in a 7 passenger van..TV set, cooler with water,cokes iced tea etc..2 hour drive from Laem Chabang to Bangkok and we went immediately to the weekend market..after being there 2 hours Nick picked us up and as we crawled in the van prostrate from the heat he reached in his cooler and pulled out ice cold wash cloths..what a dream he is..off to the Shangri La hotel and went for lunch in their lovely restaurant.... after a leisurely lunch of Thai food, Stu and I walked out and shopped on the street..bought a few more shirts and pants..then across the street was a wonderful place that gave 1 hour foot massages for 200 Baht and a change of polish for 150 baht..total 550 and that is about 14 dollars for both of us..bring me to Thailand and Vietnam more often!!..

We are back at the hotel where we will sit out by the pool and have a drink for about an hour and Nick will be here at 8pm to take us back to the ship..(another 2 hours)

All in all a wonderful day..perfect for us..

Regards,

Jan

*****

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This is, by my reckoning, the best thread I've ever read on CC:

 

It brings back some fond memories of trips to SE Asia, especially to BKK.

It has prompted me to book another O cruise. Jack and Jan are O's best sales representatives.

 

Now with tongue planted firmly in cheek, I ask that J & J adjust their daily schedules so we wait less for the next chapter in their wonderful serials!

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OK..I did it again, when we returned to the ship at 10pm, I went into the shop in the terminal..(yep, still open) and saw some copies of the Mary Frances purses..(ladies I am sure you know the ones I mean) I talked myself out of it because it was $16 and now this am I am kicking myself..and hoping I will see them again in Phuket..

Today we are at sea and I think every woman on the ship is in the laundry room..so I will try after lunch!! By the way before I forget..the berries on Nautica are fabulous and since there was so much discussion about them..they are my breakfast every morning..

Have a great day..

Jan

*****

P.S. Glad you are enjoying my notes..my kids are also..

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Jan,

 

I know exactly how you feel regarding the purse.

 

I learnt a valuable lesson many years ago, way back in 1978, when we first visited the Philippines. I saw some beautiful pearls and couldn't decide whether to buy them or not. I didn't and from the moment we left that country until this day I have always been sorry.

 

I decided after that experience, that if I ever see something I really like when I am overseas, I will buy it, as you do not know when and if you will ever return that way again.

 

Jennie

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Thanks to everyone for all the positive encouragement. It makes the difference when torn between vegging out watching a movie and keeping my goal of writing every day. I’ll reply to questions next time. Here is the new dispatch:

 

 

TOSCANA & BANGKOK (Laem Chabang)

 

From the moment I set foot in Toscana I felt the warm, enthusiasm of Italian hospitality. Paolo the Maitre d’ is a convivial Italian host, and the Thai and Eastern European servers effectively transformed into authentic Italian servers. Paolo explained there are two fat Italian chefs working in the kitchen and all our dishes would be prepared as we ordered them. Sukey graciously joined us for dinner so with four at our table I was able to see and sample much of Toscana’s cuisine.

 

My mom’s shrimp wrapped in prosciotto appetizer was the best prepared giant prawn I have ever eaten. I am going back just to order my own. The buffalo mozzarella cheese and calamari were also excellent. The breads served are similar to those served in the other dining rooms but are prepared with more garlic and herbs. While I am sure butter is available, everyone has his or her own oil and balsamic vinegar bowl. There are six different olive oils and three different vinegars to choose from—selecting our individual concoctions was almost as much fun as trying to choose from the menu where every choice was compelling.

 

We all enjoyed Caesar salad prepared tableside—with or without anchovy strips at your discretion—and my father tired the Tuscany bean peasant soup. When the salad was prepared I mentioned I liked Parmesan cheese. The salad has a perfect amount of aged slices and apparently another server overheard me and brought a dessert sized plate filled with large pieces of aged, fragrant, crumbly Parmesan carved out of a massive cheese wheel on display as we entered. I have found little gestures like this ubiquitous on Nautica. Staff genuinely discerns what you want and try to accomplish it. This phenomenon is replicated in the dining rooms, public rooms, staterooms and guest services. Management clearly have ingrained this ethic into ship’s staff.

 

The pasta course was so good I wanted to decline my Osso Bucco entrée and enjoy another pasta. I had the Tuscany trio, which included spaghetti carbonara, gnocchi in pesto and a light risotto. All three were extraordinary. Although I have successfully eaten fairly healthy since boarding, all bets were off tonight—the food was too good and the opportunity too savory to resist. Admittedly when my Osso Bucco arrived I only ate half of it—even though it crumbled deliciously off the bone—as I wanted to have dessert and didn’t want to leave the meal feeling uncomfortably full; something that would have been easy to do since the food was so alluring. My mom had the filet with mozzarella, Sukey had the veal al limon and my dad also tried the Osso Bucco. Everyone loved his or her entrée. My mom described her filet as the best steak she’d had aboard.

 

Dessert lived up to the promise of the previous courses. I enjoyed the chocolate lasagna. It was light, rich, sweet and delectable. My mother had the dessert sampler, which afforded the opportunity to try five or six small tastings selected from the dessert menu. I finally looked at my watch and realized over two and half hours had passed. Between the extraordinary meal and Sukey regaling us with her extraordinary shore side experience in Vietnam the time slipped into the night.

 

Wolfgang Maier the ship’s executive chef came to our table just before dessert and visited for five or ten minutes. He is from a small town in southern Austria and my father speaks fluent German and knows some Austrian dialect. They chatted a little and we all had an interesting conversation Wolfgang described his early days as a chef at sea serving on all four Silverseas vessels. He proudly mentioned every day that Nautica serves over 150 prepared-by-order menu items and that very few five star land resorts offer this much variety.

 

My mother inquired about galley tours and Wolfgang replied, “I will not do galley tours. I told them (meaning Oceania management) if they must have galley tours they must hire a new chef. Several years ago there was an accident and I will not ever take a chance with passengers in my galley again.” We never did learn what ill fate befell the passenger injured touring the galley as Wolfgang’s pager beeped and he politely returned to work.

 

Toscana was as good as any experience dining I’ve had on any ship—including the Cordon Bleu restaurant on Regent, SS United States on Celebrity and specialty night on Silverseas. To fully experience the cuisine I think the meal must be served in Toscana. Having the same food delivered to a stateroom (which I believe suite passengers can do on Nautica) wouldn’t have the same impact. Something magical happens when superior service, intimate ambience and exquisitely prepared food combine. I highly recommend Toscana and enthusiastically look forward to dining there later this cruise.

 

BANGKOK (Laem Chabang)

 

Initially I booked a room at the Sheraton in Pattaya and planned to avoid going into the city. Nautica berths at a container ship port, Laem Chabang, two hours from Bangkok. After discussing my plans with Robert, the ships concierge, I cancelled the hotel and my mom, dad and I purchased Bangkok-On-Your-Own tickets from the shore excursion desk. Following both Robert and Frommer Guide’s suggestions we decided to take a long boat from the Shangri-la Hotel along the Chao Phyaya River to the Grand Palace, tour the palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha, cross the river and tour Wat Arun, cross back over, shop a little and return to the Shangri-la hotel, the drop-off and pick-up point for our bus by 5:30 p.m. We were scheduled to arrive about noon so our itinerary was aggressive for a little over five hours, especially since none of has had ever been to Thailand.

 

Our tour tickets directed us to the Nautica lounge where we waited in line to receive our bus and guide assignments. One of my much-loved tricks on ship shore excursions is to get my bus assigned last, and then board the bus first and set toward the back. My goal is to have the seat next to me vacant. I asked the excursion staff if my bus was full, and to my delight learned not only was it forty percent empty, Oceania as a policy tries to leave between ten and twenty percent of each tour bus vacant, especially on long tours. This is a great practice for passenger comfort and was reminiscent of Silverseas shore excursion policies. I boarded the bus, sat at the back and began to settle in.

 

Unfortunately a fellow passenger spotted me and came toward the back of the bus to join me. I had briefly met this man coming back on the ship shuttle from the Rex Hotel in Vietnam. He noticed I had a good Nikon Camera and a detachable lens (18 to 200mm for any camera buffs) and wanted to know how to use his brand-new Nikon camera. Apparently he had spent several thousand dollars on a Nikon body, lens, etc. and no one had taught him how to use it. Needless to say the instruction book is horribly complicated. I bought a supplementary book just to help understand how to use mine. The camera salesman really laid him away—he should have been sold a good $300 fixed lens digital Canon, Nikon or Olympus camera since he didn’t want to invest time in learning a more advanced model. I had politely offered to help show him how to put everything on automatic but didn’t really want to become his camera technician for the cruise—and it felt like that was what he was looking for.

 

Fortunately my mom recognized what was happening and as he approached said, “Why don’t you sit by your father,” and swapped seats with me, which forced him to sit out of earshot. I could have kissed her as the prospect of two hours on the bus to Bangkok talking about digital cameras was about as appealing as drinking tap water in Vietnam. Our bus left the port and our guide Ses gave a wonderful lecture on the history, future and current state of Thailand affairs. I didn’t hear a word of it as I immediately turned on my ipod shuffle and listened to Neil Young, Coldplay, Pink Floyd and The Beatles as we made our way to Bangkok. I love listening to music as the countryside rolls by outside the window.

 

Even though our tour was Bangkok-On-Your-Own the guide showed us where to rent the long boat. For 1,200 Baht ($40) we had our own boat, which plied the main river and canals offering fleeting glimpses of daily life in Bangkok. Shortly after we departed our boat slowed down and I noticed a smaller boat rowing out to meet us. A smiling young man had brought the floating-boat-store right to us. Despite his best efforts we resisted the Buddha’s, postcards, toys and figurines. He finally broke out a cold beer cooler, but I am a recovering addict active in a Twelve Step program and my mom and dad are Mormon, so he really struck out. He paid our pilot a small bottle of a foul looking drink for stopping and off we went. We finally arrived, paid our tip and exited. Somehow it just didn’t look right. Instead of gold-gilt imperial palaces I saw bad paintings of snakes and an advertisement for an alligator farm. After a minute or two we realized we had been manipulated into a bad roadside attraction Thai river style, and refused to pay entrance for the alligator and snake farm. We went back on our boat, our pilot smiled as if she had been caught and off we went to our real destination.

 

Hopefully most of you have seen or someday will see the grounds of the Thai Grand Palace. I won’t write much about them as there are far better descriptions and books in print then what I can attempt her. Every vision I had as a child as to what Siam or Asia should look like is captured in the palace. It rivals Versailles or any of the great palace’s I’ve ever seen. Although the heat and humidity were oppressive we thoroughly enjoyed the overwhelming spectacle of gold-gilt surfaces, traditional architecture and many large and small statues interspersed with radiant colors and intricate designs. The complex deserves hours to really appreciate the millions of tiny details. I left wanting to go back. I also found it ironic that on Easter Sunday the closest we got to a church was visiting the Temple of the Emerald Buddha arguably Thailand’s holiest site.

 

Wat Arun was similarly impressive although the colors were muted. The gold of the palace was replaced with more subdued indigo blue, white and yellow ceramics. I sat alone for fifteen or twenty minutes on small legs of Wat Arun trying to take in a small piece of the vast creation before me. Occasionally an orange robe clad monk walked by and I caught a glimpse of the peace and serenity that some find serving here.

 

When we arrived back to the Shangri-la we had forty-five minutes before the bus departed, so we went shopping. Prior to our trip I purchased a new carry-on due to restrictions at London Heathrow Airport. My old roll aboard bag was too large for the new British requirements so I purchased a 20” Travelpro at Fred Meyer, a Northwest store, for about $85. It was 50% off and I encouraged my parents to get one. They bought one but my dad decided it was too expensive and returned it. He carried a bag without wheels on our outbound flight to Hong Kong. I teased him every chance I got as I wheeled my Travelpro while he schlepped his bag. He told me he would find a better deal along our journey and I replied, “Maybe, but I doubt it, and you certainly won’t get a Travelpro.”

 

Lo and behold immediately outside the Shangri-La was a Thai luggage store and right up front was a beautiful 20” Travelpro roll aboard. After the obligatory bargaining Dad got his new luggage for about $30—about a third of what I had paid at home. In all fairness I should have bought it for him as I’d teased him rather mercilessly all during our travels. I was actually happy for him for proven me wrong, and he won’t have to endure any more teasing about his choice to return the bag he thought was too expensive.

 

On the bus back the five empty back seats looked inviting. I was tired and briefly considered lying down and told my dad, “That looks like a good place to take a nap.”

 

“I did that once and got in trouble,” he replied. I wondered where it had happened—maybe Germany where they get uptight if your feet touch the cushions, I thought.

 

“Where did that happen?” I asked.

 

“I was coming to Uncle Jake’s in California and I was in Little Rock, Arkansas. I had just gotten off the Queen Mary, hadn’t slept in four days and those seats looked like a good place to take a nap,” he replied while indicating the five empty seats along the last row of the bus.

 

My father was born in Holland in 1931. His mother’s uncle, Jacob Dekker, had invited him to immigrate shortly after World War II ended. So when he was 18 he took his first cruise in steerage, six passengers to a cabin, bunks three high on each side, on the Queen Mary. Uncle Jake owned a large ranch in Malibu and had made a good living in the wholesale flower business. After my Uncle Jake got to know my father and realized he was intelligent, hard working and deserving of a hand-up he helped him. Between my dad’s hard work, and my Uncle Jake’s help, my dad earned his education and eventually graduated with a PhD from Stanford. I’ve always admired the discipline, responsibility and commitment it took for him to make the transition from non-English speaking immigrant to University Professor, with a doctorate from Stanford, in about fifteen years. I was born here and didn’t complete college. I was in my twenties before I realized what a difficult and noteworthy accomplishment my dad made, and what a great example he set for his children and grandchildren.

 

“The bus driver came back, shook me hard and said I was breaking the law. I couldn’t figure out why sleeping on vacant bus seats broke the law, but I had only been in America a few days, my English wasn’t very good and I didn’t want to get in trouble.

 

“When the bus stopped and I was using the bathroom I noticed people were staring at me funny. There was a sign on the door that said “COLORED” but as far as I know that just meant lots of different colors. It was a long time later when my grasp of English improved that I realized I had tried to sit in the back of the bus in the South and I had used restrooms meant only for black people. The first black person I had ever seen was an American solider with the liberation forces in Holland and I didn’t understand the discrimination in the US.”

 

My 75 year old dad quietly reminiscing on a bus from Bangkok and sharing with me his experience with discrimination in the South as a teenaged newly landed immigrant to the USA is exactly why I took this vacation now—even though my business and other affairs at home would have been better served by choosing to stay home. For me, the best of cruising is sharing new experiences with people I love while widening the intimacy and knowledge we have with each other—it is about the journey and who is there with you. The great meals, exotic ports and entertaining shows are frosting on the cake. Long after I’ve forgotten how delicious my Osso Bucco tasted in Toscana, I’ll carry the vision of my father, a long way from home, scared, in a new county with little money, a poor grasp of English, and trying to make sense of something that never would make sense no matter how well he understood it.

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Hi Jack -

 

When you get tired of the tiny shower in your room, try the one in the spa. Either walk past the spa attendant, or use the last door on the left in the gym that will take you to the spa changing room. It is wonderful. About 6 shower heads.

 

Nancy and I were on last year's cruise from HK to Athens and enjoyed it immensely. Thanks for bringing back some of the memories.

 

Rick

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JackfromWA - just found your articles and am highly impressed that another Aries - particularly one born on the same day:cool: (different year) as me and in a country many miles apart (I was born in England the same year as the war in Europe started) should produce such a wonderful travelogue. MANY thanks. The trip up the Chao Prai river brought back happy memories to us. We stayed at the Peninsular across the river from the Shangri-La and even know the luggage store your father patronised. Unfortunately the suitcase we purchased there (needed due to some excessive shopping by my better half - female side) only survived two air trips - down to Phuket and then back to Hong Kong. Such is the ability of Thai International to (mis)handle baggage gently!:mad:

 

Looking forward to your next episode.

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Jack- you really should consider offering your journal to the Bellingham Herald- they are too enjoyable for this little audience to keep to ourselves. I loved your delicate handling of your feelings about the US involvement in Viet Nam and elsewhere, and most of all your story about your growing appreciation of your Dad. Should have gone to the snake farm though- I think every tourist boat stops at one- I too ended up there by 'accident', and bought my favorite souvinier t shirt of all time.

Jan- do you still plan to recommend the Rex hotel massages? Hope you mention the 'rest of the story,' in earshot of wives, if you do...

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Hi Everyone..we woke up in Singapore and docked right next to us is a Japanese ship Akura 2 which was the Crystal Harmony..she looks a little worse for wear and it was funny listening to all her announcements in Japanese....we are just getting ready to disembark..will be back later with a full report..

Jan

*****

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Hi Jan

 

Where did the ship dock? On our Nautica cruise in February, it docked in an industrial port and we had to take a bus about 2 miles away to the passenger terminal; from there we boarded the fantastic Singapore metro that took us to all of the sights we wanted to see.

 

Mike

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Hi, I just discovered this thread and now will have to print off all the wonderful posts and read in bed at night. We are doing Rome to Singapore this year so am eagerly waiting to hear about the Indian and the Middle Eastern ports. Keep on having fun everyone.

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JackfromWA:

 

I was trying to wait until the end to say this but I cannot: With most sincerety, I hope you get paid to write. (I don't mean here, I mean in your life.) Your observations and descriptive narrative are brilliant. I get so lost in your posts and can picture the entire atmosphere.

 

It's a thrill to me to read that written by someone who really knows how to write...your posts have been an absolute pleasure.

 

I'm so glad you're on a long trip....that means we get more! (She says, greedily.)

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Hi Mike,

We docked right in the downtown terminal..like it was in Hong Kong..lots of shops..(I even bought another pair of shoes)

 

Singapore:

 

In the morning it was pouring rain so Stu and I stayed inside the terminal and wandered around..lots of security and checkpoints when you get off the ship..only port so far we had to pick up our passports and have them with us..

After lunch it had stopped raining and we went off on the Raffles and Trishaw adventure from the ship..First stop was a Bumboat ride on the Singapore River..

it is amazing all the land they are reclaiming from the sea..there are so many new builings being built..even the Sands is building a casino here!!

Our guide told us 15,000 Singapores would fit in the USA..I found that really surprising..

After a 1/2 hour boat ride we were back on the bus to get our trishaws..they were really fun with the driver playing all American music on the radio and pedaling along..(with the weight we must have gained, I felt sorry for this skinny little guy)

On to Raffles Long Bar for the famous Singapore Sling..actually even having been in Singapore many times I had never had one..it was pretty good tho very sweet..I asked to have vodka instead of gin as gin gives me a horrible headache..Long Bar is really attractive with the old time fans shaped like leaves going back and forth..Peanuts on each table and you must throw the shells on the floor..(according to custom)

 

Got back to the ship about 5pm and was glad to get in the shower to cool off..it is really hot in each port..

 

I am delighted at the quality of the tours we have taken and have heard many people praising destination services and saying how much improved they are and I heartily agree!!!!

 

Jerry Blaine was the entertainment and since we have seen him before..we just stayed talking to some of the other guests..

Today we are at sea..and after a lovely rain this am it is really a perfect day to sit at the pool..

Tomorrow Phuket..

Jan

*****

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QUESTIONS:

 

Meow, I have felt safe everywhere. However I have used common sense and when out in Vietnam at night traveled in a group and left the expensive jewelry back in the ship safe. I haven’t eaten on shore (I am sadly overly sensitive to foods from difference places and I am trying to keep my system at 100%, if you know what I mean), but places like the Peninsula in Bangkok or almost anywhere in Singapore are probably fine.

 

Merryecho, they did have a get together for veterans and I have spoken to a few who were here in Vietnam. My partner Ty’s father was a marine during the Vietnam War and I bought him an aged lighter inscribed with ‘The marines are a pimple on the ass of my sanity.” It was the only US marine item I could find and I think he’ll like it.

 

Ricktalcott, Thank you! I loved the shower. Great tip to use the shower in Nautica’s men’s changing area. It is fabulous.

 

Dianancolin, Happy Birthday! Hope yours was as delightful as mine.

 

I can’t remember who asked (and I am offline and can’t find the post right now) but the name of the casino manager is Nick.

 

JanCruz1, Meow, Fetchpeople, Merryecho, AussieGal, Dianaancolin, Lahore, CruisingSerenity, anyone I’ve left out, and most-of-all “Tyrel J” my partner—keeping everything together back home so I can be here— thank you for your kind words, compliments and encouragement. I’ve never written this much consistently. In my profession (non-travel, cruise related…. I run a small company) I write letters, and for a time kept a journal, but I have never carved the hours out of a day necessary to write this much. I’ve been enjoying it, but it is so much more encouraging to know that someone else is interested in reading what I write. Articles, blogs and books are like food—not everything appeals to everyone—but just knowing the little account I am writing actually has a few interested readers is a sensational feeling. So I thank each of you, sincerely, for offering that encouragement and taking time from your busy lives so we can meet on these pages.

 

SINGAPORE

 

Nautica docked in the Singapore Cruise Center about 8:00 a.m. Unfortunately another ship, the Akura II—formerly the Crystal Harmony—arrived almost simultaneously. I made arrangements through a link on the Singapore Tourism Authority website to hire an air-conditioned seven passenger Mercedes van for my mom, dad and I to take a six hour tour. The price was US$160 for the tour with additional hours available for $20 each. Our driver, Pharis Saleem, was supposed to wait for us with our name on a sign immediately past the immigration and customs exit.

 

We left the ship at 9:10 since we didn’t want to be late. As we followed the long jetway like passage toward immigration we observed a large, unyielding crowd ahead. Apparently the surge of Japanese passengers from Akura II combined with the Nautica passengers overwhelmed the capacity of the cruise terminal customs and immigration staff. Forty-five minutes and after listening to many disgruntled passenger and frenzied ship excursion staff conversations later, we were officially approved to enter Singapore. Our driver was right where we expected him to be, holding our name up on a large placard.

 

As we approached the van the rain started. Quickly it became a torrential downpour. Pharis advised we look around downtown Singapore and do some indoor sightseeing until the rain lifted. We headed to Raffles and got our obligatory photographs. I spent a little too much in the gift store—it isn’t cheap but I wanted Raffles souvenirs for my partner Ty back home—and we wandered around Singapore, perhaps southeast Asia’s most famous hotel.

 

After Raffles we drove through Little India, Arab Street, China Town and stopped to take photos at the Merlion. For those of you who haven’t been there, Singapore’s mascot is a Lion’s head and torso attached to a mermaid’s fins. I like the Venetian winged lion better (if I were inventing mythical beasts as symbols I’d rather have a lion that could fly than a lion that could swim) but the Merlion is impressive and I’d never seen it until today.

 

The Merlion park is in the heart of town, directly across from five of Singapore’s finest hotels, and it is a great place to take a few photos of the Merlion fountain. Singapore is building the world’s largest Ferris wheel—although both my mom and I recall the London eye as seeming larger—and it should be open next spring.

 

Our guide spoke impeccable English and had a great sense of humor. When we passed the Parkview Square office tower I commented on how much I like the building’s great art-deco design.

 

“Yes, it is just like Gotham City in Batman,” Pharis replied with a smile. Then he explained that all Singapore males serve two years in the Army, Navy, Air Force, Police or Civil Defense from age eighteen to twenty. Following two years of active duty they train in the reserves for ten more years. At age 40 they are released from all military commitment. I admired Singapore’s cleanliness, friendliness, high standard of living and overall infrastructure. Unfortunately I am afraid it comes at a high price.

 

“In Singapore if you are charged with a crime you are guilty unless you can prove your innocence.” Pharis told us. I was shocked.

 

“You mean if a policeman charges you with a crime you have to prove you are innocent or you will be convicted?” I incredulously asked.

 

“Oh yes. In Singapore you have to prove you are innocent.” It was clear from his tone that Pharis approved of his country’s judicial system.

 

I was abhorred by it. This is a county where your immigration entry card says in large bold letters “DRUG SMUGGLING IS PUNISHABLE BY DEATH.” Singapore has the highest per-capita capital punishment rate in the world, and under their legal system a charge is a conviction unless the accused can prove his or her innocence. Not for me thank you. As inequitable as the United State’s justice may be at times I fervently believe in the concept of guilty until proven innocent. I don’t want a policemen deciding I am guilty and then have to prove my innocence—I want a jury of my peers and a prosecutorial burden of proving I did it. I truly believe it is “better a guilty man goes free than an innocent man be convicted.”

 

Out of politeness and deference to Pharis I nodded my head as if Singapore’s judicial system was the best invention since the telephone and continued to listen as Pharis shared many more interesting facts and tidbits of information about his country.

 

Eventually we made our way to Changi prison and toured the excellent museum. All of us had read ‘King Rat’ and seeing the photos, mementos, letters from prisoners written home and physical lay out of actual cells brought the book to life. After Changi we went to the Kanji War Cemetery and memorial. If I understood correctly the British maintain it. It is a serene and peaceful place. It has been interesting going to these WWII sites with my father. He lived through the war as a young teenager in the Netherlands and has never talked much about that time. It was obvious by the way he carefully read the descriptions of the photos and displays and captured the words inscribed on several large memorials with his camera so he could read them again later, that seeing all this was bringing back memories.

 

We drove through Changi village, passed through the agricultural and fish farm area where Koi and other precious fish are raised for international export, saw orchid and palm farms and finally made our way back to town.

 

We stopped at a grocery store and purchased some Diet Coke and water. A one-liter bottle of Evian on the ship is overpriced at $3.50. At the store it was $1.25. Diet Coke on the ship is $2.00 and we paid about the same at a Singapore grocery store as we would at home—about 40¢ a can. The rain began again; our excursion was sandwiched by torrential rain, and we returned to the ship.

 

We sadly said goodbye to Pharis, he was a superb, friendly, knowledgeable guide and boarded the ship about 4 p.m. Since we didn’t depart until 8 p.m. I parted ways with my mom and dad and we separately left the ship and shopped in the mall adjacent to where Nautica berthed for the day. The mall has a good international grocery store, drug store and almost everything else you would find in a good mall in the US. I went to Starbucks for an hour and used some free, fast wireless internet access. My mom thoughtfully purchased ‘King Rat’ for me (I haven’t read it in fifteen years of more), so I know what is next on my onboard reading list.

 

Singapore was a wonderful stop. I found it a beautiful country and I particularly admired how the Muslim, Chinese, English and Indian populations peacefully coexist. They appear to have an excellent social services support system and public housing is clean and readily available to all. Despite all that something about the place bugged me. Singapore strikes me as too good to be true, and I believe if I really started scratching the surface all the wonderful social qualities Singapore appears to have probably come at a pretty high price. I don’t know what the value of free speech and the right to face and challenge accusers is worth, but I know it is priceless to me—and I know I wouldn’t give them up to live in Singapore.

 

Tomorrow we arrive in Phuket. I have a day room at the Banyan Tree and my mom, dad and I will get to enjoy one of the world’s finest resorts and spas for the day. I have been looking forward to this for months and I’m really excited to experience the Banyan Tree firsthand.

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Jack

I have never posted on these boards before. I have been reading them for the last few months as my husband and I are taking our first cruise on Regatta in the Med later this year.

Reading them has been an interesting experience for a NZer and apart from the enormous amount of cruise information I have garnered that will make our cruise that much more enjoyable I have been impressed by peoples willingness to take the time to share their knowledge (and of course opinions.)

But I had to write and tell you how much our family enjoyed in particular the portion on your father's early experieces in the USA. Not really because of the story (which was excellent. my daughter has a PHD in English Lit and Philosophy, she lectures at university here and she said to tell you she gives you an A+ and wants to know why you are not writing a book) but because of the love and pride for your parents that shines through and illuminates what is often these days a sad world.

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Jack,

 

I have now printed out chapter 6 of your wonderful travelogue. It is such interesting reading plus it will keep me going throughout this coming year when I will be wishing that our cruise was only a few weeks away instead of months!

 

Jennie

Jennie

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