Nautica Impressions HKG to ATH

[esther e]

Jack, I just have to jump in and tell you how much I'm enjoying your journal. You're in a part of the world I'll never get to, and yet I feel I'm there with every sentence. Please continue. This is a pleasure to read and I'm enjoying each experience.

 

My best wishes to Ty. I pray it's not serious.

 

Esther

[Toranut97]

Jack, your writing is so eloquent! You are wonderful with your portrayal of images. When I read the account of your conversation with Frank at the home of Gandhi, I felt like I had reached a fascinating plot twist ina novel -- isn't life amazing!!? A fiction author could hardly dream some of the stuff that happens in everyday life!

 

Your contribution to the cruise devotees here -- and your fine account of the joys and oys of Oceania travel (mostly joys!) --- are marvelous. I look forward to your installments. I think FDR should purchase the reprint rights and have a copy placed in the Nautica library!

 

Happy cruising,

 

Donna

[KIWP]

Hi Jack - just got back from a quick trip to London, Milan and Dubai (all personal to see friends and family) and could not wait to catch up on oyur most wonderful wtiting. I totally agree with your list of the "areas for improvement" at Oceania and hope that some attention is paid to your suggestions. Over our numerous cruises with "O" (and it is still our favorite of all) we have also mentioned the same categories.

 

I see that you did not go to Agra, and I'm sorry that you missed an amazing sight. Sunrise & Sunset there are as special as seeing the Pyramids, looking down from Mt. Kilimanjaro, and seing the world in the same lights. Franky I could go on and on (actually we are to Tibet) I could go on and on. Hopefully you will take other opportunities to go back. Please don't miss Petra, or the trip to Luxor. The only challenge is trying to get to Cairo in one day. We've spent 10 days there and explored every corner of the city and still think we missed a few things. But a quick glimpse of the Pyramids is better than not seeing them at all.

 

I hope that Ty is well and will keep our fingers crossed that all turns out well.

 

Robert is a terrific Concierge. Not only is he knowledgeable but also a great guy.

 

Who is playing piano in the Martini Lounge?

 

Please keep writing, andI perhaps consider a compilation of your diary for publication. You have a great style of presenting your views. As long as people travel and take opportunities to expose themselves to other cultures then they will definitely broaden their perpective of the world and all that it offers.

[Twiga]

Jack, I loved reading about your visit to Mumbai. I spent a month in India, including almost a week in Bombay (Mumbai), many years ago. Your descriptions of the city, the traffic, and the people were marvelous. I could hear the car horns honking and smell the scent of India as I read your words. Thanks so much for sharing with us!

[tallship]

Thank you for your insightful commentary.

 

Emdee,

 

Our paths recently crossed via your 22 yr old. Pls private message on the other board.

[merryecho]

 

I have a better idea. Jack's journal has inspired me to sign up for the Oceania cruise Jack has been describing. I think it would be great advertising to give Jack and Ty free trips on Oceania in exchange for Jack writing a journal on each journey!

[raffeer]

Jack-

Thank you so much for making it possible for me to travel this route with you. Many memories and much longing for the day when I can dispense with vicarious travel and dust off my passport.

Good thoughts for Ty. The waiting is not fun.

 

Merryecho-

What a brilliant idea! Ty and Jack can taste all the routes and report back.

What better sales force could Oceania have?

On second thought maybe not such a good idea. Booking would end up being 18 - 24 months out.

Beatrice

[JackfromWA]

I asked my Mom to share some of her thoughts about Ocenia, Oman and cruising together. I'll write my entry on Oman sometime in the next few days (we have four sea days ahead, just left Salalah, Oman enroute to Safaga/Luxor). I hope you all enjoy a different voice for a day and my mom's impressions.

 

A POST FROM ANN

 

Today you will hear another voice. This is Jack’s mom. Like all of you who are reading his thread, I am a big fan of Jack’s writing. He has done a beautiful job capturing the spirit of the many places we have been. As you can imagine, he is funny, talented and a blast to travel with. He suggested that I give some input to his narrative and I agreed.

 

This cruise has been a wonderful experience for us. The best thing has been the amount of time we have been able to spend with Jack. Not every parent is fortunate enough to be able to take a long vacation with a grown child. The memories and the fun we have had together will stay with us all of our lives. This is truly a great cruise line. The food is delicious, the crew are extremely friendly and personable and the activities are fun and educational. We have had wonderful interaction with various crew members as well as other passengers. That being said, there is always a wish list of changes for any cruise line but in this case I think they are minimal. I would like to have more laundry facilities and I would like to see a few changes in the gym. We use the treadmill almost daily and it is first come first serve with a 20-minute limit if people are waiting. We have learned to go a little later in the day so we can spend longer on the machines. I personally prefer ships that have sign up sheets for the treadmill and allow you 30 minutes on the machines. It eliminates waiting around for someone to finish up. But the positives on this ship so far outweigh the negatives that I hesitate to even mention them. We are experienced cruisers and this is probably the nicest cruise we have ever taken. I would not hesitate to recommend this line to my friends.

 

Today we arrived in Salalah, Oman. It is not as exciting as most of the ports we have visited but we were curious about the country and the culture. We got off the ship and unlike all our other ports, there were no taxis and only one small stand with a couple of vendors. We were told that due to local regulations, guests were not permitted to walk in the port area so a shuttle bus service was provided to transport us from the gangway to the port gate. At the port gate there were numerous taxis. After a bit of haggling, we found a taxi to take us into the town for $30. Jack offered him $55 if he would take us round trip. At first he said no and then he realized we did not expect him to wait but to return at an appointed time. The fare quickly moved from acceptable to desirable and he was eager to come back for us. Pete suggested 4:00 p.m. (It was 10:30 a.m.) and Jack and I looked at each other and wondered what we would be doing all day. We suggested we wait and see the town and then decide on a time. The Omani official who had boarded the ship had written down an address where we could shop and where the men could get haircuts. When we arrived we saw sand, a few buildings and a barbershop. We asked about the market and the driver said “oh sure, there are fruits and vegetables here.” With all we have to eat on the ship, that is the last type of market we wanted to see. We finally got to the market street where there were many small shops with a variety of souvenirs. Jack had already decided to have a haircutting experience in Oman so our first quest was to find a barbershop. He found one he liked and asked for the works. The barber was friendly and did a pretty good job with the scissors. Next came a shave with lots of lather and a straight razor. The final touch was a head massage for about 20 minutes. I took several pictures of the process. The bill for this elaborate treatment was $2.50. Pete had a haircut and massage but no shave and his bill was $1.25. Needless to say, they were happy campers.

 

While the men were getting their beauty treatments, I walked to the market area. On the way I saw more tailor shops than I have ever seen in my life. On one street alone there were twenty. Most of them were for men but I saw three for women. I went to the windows to investigate and felt like I was peeking into a dressing room for a harem. The dresses were in bright colors, often sheer and with lots of sparkles and spangles. This was in total contrast to the women I saw in the shops in plain black dresses, and often with veiled faces. I did see two or three women wearing colorful silk scarves, which covered every speck of hair. I’m sure the fancy dresses were for husband’s eyes only. Although I looked at clothing, I bought only one top and a few scarves for gifts. When the shopkeepers showed me the long dresses that the women wear on the street, I politely said “No, thank you” but in my heart I knew I could never wear one of those dresses. We saw very few women. I think they must stay home most of the time. When a friend of mine asked a woman if she could take her picture, the woman first got permission from her husband. That is so foreign to my thinking that I can barely comprehend it. My heart goes out to women all over the world who live in societies that dictate how they dress and what they can and can’t do. I know that it is embraced by some and that is their choice. Throughout this trip I have had so many occasions to ponder the wonderful circumstances in which we live at home. I hope I never take our freedom for granted.

[tak2]

 

I have a better idea. Jack's journal has inspired me to sign up for the Oceania cruise Jack has been describing. I think it would be great advertising to give Jack and Ty free trips on Oceania in exchange for Jack writing a journal on each journey!

 

If O is reading this, will you consider a new ship for this route? With the 35 days it'll be nice to have the 50% larger staterooms, and the demand generated by Jack & Ann's journal, we also need extra cabins to fill the need.

[scdreamer]

I asked my Mom to share some of her thoughts about Ocenia, Oman and cruising together. I'll write my entry on Oman sometime in the next few days (we have four sea days ahead, just left Salalah, Oman enroute to Safaga/Luxor). I hope you all enjoy a different voice for a day and my mom's impressions.

 

A POST FROM ANN

 

Today you will hear another voice. This is Jack’s mom. Like all of you who are reading his thread, I am a big fan of Jack’s writing. He has done a beautiful job capturing the spirit of the many places we have been. As you can imagine, he is funny, talented and a blast to travel with. He suggested that I give some input to his narrative and I agreed.

 

 

Now we all know where Jack's wonderful writing skills and his observant and compassionate manners come from. Thank you, Ann, for your post ... and also for doing a superb job in raising your son, Jack! Wonderful read ...

 

Leslie & Wayne

[KIWP]

Take this trip and any other you can on any of the "O" ships. We've done this one and others (6 so far and have 3 more booked). We will re-do this trip in '09. Definitely a must for anyone whether a newbie to the area, or just a lover of the world as we are.

[KIWP]

Well now we know from whom Jack gets his creativity. Thank you for your addition.

I agree Salalah is not much. Should you have a chance, to see Muscat and parts of the north you would see more, but Oman is truly subdued compared to the various Emirates of the UAE (especially Dubai and Abu Dhabi), Egypt, or Jordan.

 

I am a transplanted European who has lived in the US for many years, and other parts of the world and have often been to the Middle East. I agree that the western mind (especially for us women) it is most difficult to observe the very definitive separation between the sexes. But the cultures are so amazing and rich that there are other aspects to be gained from being there.

 

I hope you go to Petra, and would love to hear your further impressions as you explore. We did this cruise in '06 and loved it so much we wil repeat it in '09, even though we've been to all the destinations numerous times.

 

I wish you a most enjoyable rest of the trip, and please keep writing.

[PennyAgain]

I, too, have been enjoying your postings, Jack. I have been a "lurker" but now that you are at the half-way point I must come out in the open and say "Great writing!" I am eagerly awaiting the next installment. I love Goa and all of India. It has been quite awhile since I have been there, so I can't wait to read about your experiences in India.

 

I also want to says "Thanks!" to Mr. Del Rio for reading these message boards and responding to the comments made, both good and not so good, by Cruise Critics members. I am booked on the Nautica in September. It will be my first time on Oceania. I know I will become an Oceania convert. Until my cruise, I am enjoying my virtual cruise with you, Jack, and your parents. They sound like wonderful people and terrific cruise buddies. Thanks for sharing your cruise with all of us!

 

Absolutely fantastic thread. Truly my favorite on CC as well!

 

A pleasure and treasure!

[Wadadli1]

Now we all know where Jack's wonderful writing skills and his observant and compassionate manners come from. Thank you, Ann, for your post ... and also for doing a superb job in raising your son, Jack! Wonderful read ...

Leslie & Wayne

 

Do you reckon Jack also got his Prickly Heat Powder application technique from Ann? :p

[JackfromWA]

A FEW RESPONSES:

 

DrukeI, thanks for your encouragement and information about the cabs. I forgot to mention the meters attached outside the cab, I had never seen that before.

 

Emdee, I love Kenya. To this day I don’t think I’ve enjoyed any day more then one spent watching lion cubs’ play while seated in a Governor’s camp Land Rover in the heart of the Masai Mara. Have a great time when you take your safari.

 

Meow! I’m not informed enough to even have an opinion of what is best to control population in India. I do think Dr. Jeffery Sach’s book ‘The End of Poverty: Economic Possibilities for Our Time’ is chock-full of the best ideas I have heard on solving the problem of 20% of the world’s population living in extreme poverty. Dr. Sach’s work formed the basis for the successful global ONE campaign (Bono is the lead spokesperson) and is truly compelling. I highly recommend reading it.

 

AussieGal, I spoke to several friends and the accommodations (this year Oceania used the Taj View hotel which—not surprisingly— has a view of the Taj Mahal) and is definitely up to snuff. I asked Cinthya, the excursion manager, for you and they will use the Taj View hotel again next year. Everyone I spoke to who went to Agra felt that the time given for the Taj was sufficient—they didn’t feel rushed. You should probably book from home as the Taj excursion quickly sold out and several people on the waiting list couldn’t go. Also watch what you eat in Agra; there have been some passengers with diarrhea and upset tummies (my cabin is on Deck Four directly across from the ship’s medical center, so between that and being socially active, I see and hear quite a bit about medical problems) from some of the passengers who went to Agra. You can’t be too careful and no one wants to suffer from digestive problems while taking a 35-day cruise. Please don’t be afraid to go, just brush your teeth with bottled water, don’t eat salad, etc.

 

Esther E, thanks for the well wishes for Ty’s good health and for your encouragement to keep writing.

 

Kiwp, as you know I will go to Agra next time and won’t miss Petra, Luxor of the brief glimpse of the Giza pyramids. As always, thanks for sharing your experience and offering excellent suggestions.

 

Raffeer, Twiga, PennyAgain and TallShip, thank you for the kind words and encouragement to write.

 

Merryecho, glad you can take this trip next year. You will have a great time; it is a fabulous, exciting itinerary.

 

Tak2, SCDreamer, KIWP, I made sure my mom read your replies and compliments. She and my dada are great parents and did a wonderful job raising my two brothers, my sister and I.

 

SALALAH

 

My research on Oman revealed little of interest in the port of Salalah. I checked the internet, read through travel forums and with the possible exception of the Sultan’s Salalah residence and the historical and biblical significance of Job’s footprint and tomb—I was skeptical that the footprint even belonged to Job, if all the fragments of Jesus Christ’s cross I had been shown in cathedrals and monasteries across Europe were genuine, his cross would be larger than the tallest Redwood tree in California—there wasn’t much that drew my attention.

 

Maybe I’m missing something, I thought, but after talking to Cinthya, the excursion manager and Robert, the concierge, I decided that Salalah didn’t have too much outside of beautiful beaches, the Hilton Hotel, and a taste of everyday life in Oman that piqued my curiosity. Since sightseeing choices were limited, I decided to get a shave and haircut from an Omani barber.

 

“That’s an excellent idea,” Robert exclaimed. “After they cut your hair, the barber will take little strings and roll them across your cheekbone and ears to pluck any stray hairs, then you will get a wonderful little scalp massage. I am going to do the same thing in Port Safaga, I have never gotten a haircut in Salalah but I am sure it is very similar.”

 

With a plan in place I began to look forward to going ashore. The excursion desk had a handout on visiting Oman which covered tourist points of interest (not many), appropriate attire (strongly advised for men and women), etiquette, heritage and shopping. Like most ships the headline of our daily program is usually either historical information about the current ports of call or information about the sea being navigated (today is ‘Cruising the Gulf of Aden’), but in addition the excursion desks distributes free handouts tailored to the local port. I have found them quite useful in planning my day and gaining a bit more insight into our destinations. Between my Frommer’s guides, Lonely Planet guides, Rough guides and the ship handouts I have covered my reading bases on our ports-of-call.

 

The Salalah handout had half a page on male Omani fashion. The section described traditional Middle Eastern garb. The photo of a man in a dish-dash-ah (the robe) and ogal (the headdress) looked exactly like Arabs in US television news broadcasts. I decided I’d like to purchase a dish-dash-ah and ogal to take home. It might be comfortable to wear and if I needed a costume for a holiday or special occasion I’d have a unique one—I have never seen any of friend dressed as an Arab at a party or for Halloween.

 

The Salalah representative on board—in every port a local representative has come aboard for three or four hours, and sat at a table on Deck Four near the excursion desk to answer guest’s questions—advised I could easily find a barber and a dish-dash-ah at the local market. We took a short, free shuttle ride from the ship’s dock to the pier gate, and negotiated a taxi for 11 rial (about $30) to take us on the twenty-minute drive to town. Our Omani driver, and many of the people we met in Oman speak a little English, so on our way into Salalah I had him stop at an ATM. I withdrew 75 rial—I always prefer to shop in local money, but in Salalah it wasn’t necessary, US dollars were accepted everywhere—and arranged to meet our taxi a few hours later.

 

Salalah is desert country. All the buildings reflect the deep tan color of desert sand, and during our visit I didn’t see any trees, shrubs or greenery except where man had irrigated to create artificial lush oases. I live in the far Northwest of the Pacific Northwest (Ty and I live eight miles from Bellingham, Washington on five secluded forested acres with a large lawn and a salmon creek cutting across the back corner of our property—it’s like living in a park) and I take large, medium and small lakes and ponds, babbling creeks, rivers with strong currents (and inevitable annual flood alerts), tall evergreen trees, pine cones and needles, snowcapped mountains and rugged coastlines for granted. If my home has a geographic and religious opposite it might be Salalah.

 

We left the central market area and started searching for a barber. After wandering several blocks from the market hub, and passing at least fifty or sixty small tailor shops—it seemed every tailor shop was about fifteen feet wide, twenty feet deep and was filled with mostly white bolts of fabric to make dish-dash-ah robes—I spotted a sign that said HAIRDRESSER in English and Arabic. The business signs are easy to see as the vivid red, green and blue colors used to advertise stand in start contrast to the sand color of the buildings.

 

“That one looks good to me Dad, let’s go in and check it out.” I said.

 

“Alright but I want to come in and see how long it is going to take,” my mom said.

 

“That’s fine. I probably want to have a few pictures and it’d be great if you could take them,” I replied.

 

We entered the barbershop and the familiar interior reminded me of a traditional small town barbershop in America. Two dark skinned men were quietly chatting as a television blared Arabic music and videos in the background. They looked up, surprised to see us.

 

“Can I get a haircut and a shave?” I asked as I made pantomime scissor motions with my fingers and a cutting motion on my chin.

 

Despite their initial shock they seemed happy to have customers and I was quickly motioned to the chair. Uh-oh I thought. I better set a price before this starts.

 

“How much will this cost?” I asked, pointing to my money.

 

“One rial,” the barber replied. He pointed his index finger skyward to make certain I understood he meant one. Seemed like a great deal to me—one rial is two dollars and fifty cents.

 

“OK,” I said and my haircut began. I only needed a trim as I tend to keep my hair short. With two more weeks before I fly home, any misgiving I had about a bad haircut were nullified by the knowledge that any damage done was likely to be gone by the time I reached Athens.

 

To my delight the haircut was great. I have very straight hair and the barber seemed quite adept at dealing with it. I always like to get a haircut in Hong Kong, as the barber’s in China are familiar with straight hair. My mom snapped a few photos and my dad stepped outside to look around. It was at least ninety degrees outside so my dad quickly returned to the air-conditioned shop, and my mom decided to return to the main market and meet us at noon.

 

My barber, in an apparent effort to make me comfortable, kept changing the TV to find an English-speaking station. Unfortunately he found a Christian fundraising channel based in Florida, so out of politeness I was forced to listen to a plea to send money to help missionary efforts and hungry children. Whatever their problem is it can’t be any worse than the poverty in Mumbai, I thought. Since I paid no attention whatsoever to the television, the barber eventually changed the channel back to the much more interesting Arabic music station.

 

Since we had a bit of a language barrier I wasn’t sure if I was actually going to get a shave. I have never been shaved in a barber chair in my life, but when the haircut was done, my scalp cleaned, and all errant hair removed, he applied the first of many layers of lotion to my face and my first barbershop shave began. After all the lather was applied the barber asked, “Where are you from?”

 

“USA, near Seattle,” I replied.

 

“Oh,” was all he said. I liked him, he seemed nice enough, but I wondered what he thought about Americans. He had a well coiffed American in his barber chair, with my head leaned back and my neck fully exposed, while he held a long, sharp razor just under my chin. Though I was never frightened—if I had been I would have abruptly left—this was my first time in an Arabic, Muslim country and I couldn’t imagine the United States is currently held in high regard in Oman. I received a good, close shave, a long, invigorating and relaxing head, scalp and shoulder massage—the massage alone was worth $5 to me—and then got up so my dad could get his haircut.

 

My father is mostly bald, but I think the reason his haircut cost one half a rial is he didn’t have a shave. While my dad’s haircut was going on the barber’s two young sons arrived. I think a phone call was made and the children were invited to come view the unusual sight of Americans in the barber chair. The boys appeared to be about six and ten years old. I overheard the dad say USA to them, but of course couldn’t understand they rest of what he told them about his surprise customers. The children watched me intently. I wish I had brought the kids some of the Oceania chocolates they place on my pillow every night; I have a drawer full of them and I’m not going to eat them all before the end of the cruise. My dad’s small backpack was sitting next to me, he loves candy and usually has some, sure enough there was a yellow bag of peanut M&M’s. I ate a few, offered some to the two boys and they happily accepted and started munching them.

 

“So you are from the USA,” the ten-year old asked me in perfect English

 

“Yes, I am,” I replied. He thought about that for a minute.

 

“I like Pirates of the Caribbean,” he finally said.

 

“Me to. Jack Sparrow!” I exclaimed swishing my hand like a pirate wielding a sword.

 

He laughed and his younger brother shyly smiled. Their father seemed pleased by our small conversation and his son’s proficient English. Soon he and his brother left, sure to tell about meeting the Pirates-of-the Caribbean-loving Americans encountered at the barbershop. I took a few more photos of my dad getting a haircut, tipped the barber handsomely (I gave him double the price of the haircuts; our net cost with tip for two haircuts, two massages, one shave and a great tip was $7.50), and left the comfort of the barbershop for the heat of the Salalah streets. As we proceeded back to the central market to meet my mom a loud sound interrupted the silence. It was a deep male Arabic voice and sounded almost as loud as the PA system at the Seattle Seahawks home stadium, Qwest Field.

 

“Is that…” I questioned my dad.

 

“Yep, that’s the call for Muslims to pray. The announcement is coming from the Mosque. You haven’t ever heard that before?” he asked.

 

I hadn’t. It was my first time. My parents have traveled to Istanbul and other places where they have heard the loud, public exhortations to pray, but I never had. At first it made me feel uncomfortable. Why was a religious action broadcast so loudly to the entire town? As I thought more about it, I recalled the bells of the Assumption Catholic Church loudly ringing every Sunday morning through my bedroom window as I tried to sleep after finishing my early morning paper route. Growing up the bells announcing mass seemed normal to me—and I am sure the call to pray broadcast five times a day in Salalah didn’t bother most residents any more than the bells from the Catholic church bothered me as a child.

 

As we approached the market, merchants warmly, genuinely greeted us. Unlike many of our previous ports, and though the greeting were subtle invitations to enter their stores, they did not pressure us. Almost every man was clad in traditional garb; dish-dash-ah robe and hat. The few women I saw were covered in black and their faces and bodes were concealed from view. The only two children I saw were the boys in the barbershop dressed in t-shirts, long pants and sandals.

 

Salalah appears to be a traditional, conservative Arab county. Because of the war in Iraq I expected to encounter hostility as a visiting citizen of the United States. My experience was the opposite. When a merchant overheard me asking my dad about a toilet, he interrupted and offered me his bathroom and expected nothing in return. When I was asked where I was from and I answered “USA”, eyes lit up in pleasant surprise and I was warmly welcomed.

 

I am starting to think that extremist Muslim terrorists bear no more relationship to the traditional Muslims I encountered in Salalah than the extremist use-the-bible-to-justify-their-behavior Ku Klux Klan terrorists bore to traditional American Christians a hundred years ago in the United States. My expectations of how I would be greeted in an Arabic country were largely formed from watching the NBC evening news and reading the daily papers. My reality was very different, and I found the residents of Salalah friendly, interesting and polite. After the poverty, begging and hassles of Mumbai, the calm roads and friendly residents of Salalah were a pleasant respite.

 

As a tourist port Salalah was fairly boring. According to a handout Nautica gave us the first week of the cruise we use 22,000 gallons of fuel daily if traveling our maximum speed of 20 knots. According to my calculations we use roughly 45 gallons of fuel to travel a mile (we get 45 gallons to the mile so to speak), so a significant portion of our ticket cost is used to pay for diesel fuel. (45 gallons times approximately 6,500 miles from Hong Kong to Athens is 292,500 gallons for this entire trip. At an average cost of $2 per gallon, total fuel is about $600,000. There are close to 700 passengers aboard so each ticket contributes a little less than $1,000—$600,000 for total fuel divided by 700 passengers—toward fuel costs).

 

I think the primary reason so many ships repositioning from Asia to Europe stop here is Salalah has cheap fuel and cheap berthing. Oceania, like all other cruise lines, is a for-profit company, and in the economics of cruising, berthing at a port like Venice probably costs ten times as much as berthing in a port like Salalah. It increases profitability for a cruise line to include some inexpensive ports like Salalah along with more expensive ports like Hong Kong or Singapore. I’m not sorry we came to Salalah, I personally found it very interesting, but unlike Ho Chih Minh City, Bangkok or even Mumbai, I don’t have a desire to ever bring Ty here to show him the “beauty and mystery” of exotic Salalah.

 

With our haircuts under our belts it was time to buy my dish-dash-ah and hat. There were so many shops the problem wasn’t finding one; it was choosing which one to shop. I selected a store at random, proceeded inside, and with words and pantomime explained to the shopkeeper what I wanted. Although I am a large American, dish-dash-ah robes are very forgiving. For the first time since Hong Kong I purchased clothing that I knew would fit me. The young shopkeeper showed me how to tie my shumagg (the scarf-like headdress). It looked great when he tied it, but I didn’t devote the time to learn how to properly fasten it. In Oman they also wear a headpiece that is a cross between a Fez and the style hat you see a 1950’s-era movie usher wearing. I purchased one of those along with my shumagg. I knew if I couldn’t tie the shumagg I could always just wear the hat.

 

After a few more souvenir purchases from the souk, my parents were ready to leave as well. Our driver had been loitering in the market to get our fare back to the ship, so we entered his cool cab and returned to Nautica. As we approached the cargo container port about fifteen miles from town, I caught a view of Nautica rising over the top of containers and sand dunes. The pure white paint of her smokestack appeared out of place against the muted sun-bleached containers, cranes and sand colored port buildings. To me, Nautica appeared an oasis in the desert of Oman, and I couldn’t wait to get aboard and loll around in the lush, comfortable confines of my traveling home.

 

After twenty-four days aboard, Nautica felt like home and all the passengers and crew were beginning to feel like my neighbors and friends. It is a good home, and with the exception of the absence of Ty, Rusty (our beloved Wheaten terrier) and Stewart (our kind of beloved cat), it was a home I would be content and happy to live in for a long time.

 

Ray Solaire (his true last name is Hook, but his stage name and thus his Cruise Director surname on Nautica is Solaire) had invited my mom, dad, Sukey and I for dinner. I decided to wear my new dish-dash-ah and hat. It was great fun. I took photos with Robert the concierge, Raquel and Rosie from reception and garnered many amused looks in the dining room. Someone warned me not to wear my dish-dash-ah home on American Airlines, and though they are correct that wearing this would cause some concern on a US bound flight, if more overweight American men tried wearing a dish-dash-ah they could become very popular very quickly; you don’t have to wear a belt, and after I discovered it contained a pocket for my room key I wore nothing but a t-shirt, undergarments and sandals underneath. The whole outfit looks quite imposing while feeling light and comfortable. I told my mom the next time I am on a cruise line with a formal night I am taking my dish-dash-ah.

 

At dinner Ray regaled us with wonderful stores of his 39 years at sea. He is actually retired, makes his home in the lake district of England, and is working part time for Oceania to balance his retirement with his love and talent for being a cruise director at sea. Ray is a living legend of cruising and embodies everything a cruise director should be: imminently approachable, exceedingly friendly, extremely talented (he sings, dances, conducts, organizes, plans, is a published author, quickly adapts and is one of the world’s foremost puppeteers) and vastly experienced with creating content passengers. Like so many of the top staff on Nautica including ship manager Michael Coghlan, executive chef Wolfgang Maier, concierge Robert Kinkhorst and excursion manager Cinthya Pavin, Ray previously worked for Silverseas and brings a Four Seasons level of service and proficiency to Oceania. I love getting Silverseas service for Oceania prices.

 

We are currently in the middle of four days at sea. Yesterday was the dreaded day when the disembarkation questionnaires were distributed and I had to tell the ship when and how I was leaving. In bold letters I was informed I had to be off Nautica by 9 a.m. Unfortunately none of the options on the questionnaire included the choice of staying aboard! Along with the questionnaire each stateroom received a preliminary summary of charges—they were smart enough to hit us with all the bad news at once—mine wasn’t too bad (under $1,000) as I purchased the Cairo and Luxor excursions and Cabana rental over the internet from home. While it is a necessary evil, seeing the first telltale sign that soon this trip will end wasn’t enjoyable, and though I long to get home to see Ty, I don’t look forward to talking my last walk down Nautica’s gangplank. Fortunately the sightseeing highlights for my parents and I remain ahead of us, and there are still eleven nights and twelve days in front of us.

 

Ray has cancelled trivia today and the staff are converting the pool deck into an Olde English Country Faire—the pool deck is closed from 3 p.m. to 4:30 to accommodate the transition—and this ship is abuzz about what will happen at the fair. Ray promised some unusual exciting activities for the remainder of our trip, “On a cruise this long you have to hold back some of the most exciting things until close to the end,” he said at dinner, and I am looking forward to seeing what he and the rest of the crew have in store for us today.

 

As I have repeated often, this has been a wonderful journey—it feels too long to call it a vacation—and as we begin to enter the last laps I am excited to enjoy watching the remainder of our trip unfold.

 

Next stop Luxor—our first time in Egypt—but in between there are still a few more wonderful, relaxing sea days to enjoy.

[lahore]

Hi Jack, thanks for yet another fabulous report. I am quite looking forward to Salalah, we have booked a taxi driver (through a backpacker e-friend who recommended him) and were thinking of going down the sea road a little to the next little town which is apparently a picturesque fishing village. Do you know if anyone did that? Or did anyone go driving anywhere out of Salalah - and if so what were there impressions? Thanks, the cheek thing with the string is called 'threading' by the way; and is commonly used by Asian women. It is remarkably efficient and the skill required is unique; they hold one end of the thread in their mouth and deftly ensnare the errant hair with the other end and rip it out by the roots. My Indian girlfriends said "oh good, you haven't tried threading, let's go, our shout"" - they just wanted to see me suffer - it hurts. Did they do that to you? Maybe I'll get them back with a Brazillian when they come to visit next year;) Keep on enjoying...we all are, vicariously.

[magicnelly]

I am so enjoying reading your wonderful journal! Thank you so much for sharing it.

 

We are booked on a back-to-back in May and have booked a Cabana for the entire time. I am anxiously awaiting your review of these controversial spaces!

 

In my imagination, they shall be little havens to escape to after a long day in port.....after changing into something cool and relaxing, slipping off the "functional" shoes and settling down to sip a much needed adult beverage with my DH while sharing our thoughts on the day!

 

An in-depth, honest review of these written in your wonderful style would be a treat!

[meow!]

JackfromWA:

Thank you kindly for continuing to post. This has become my "daily reading". I especially appreciate your effort in replying to all questions posted to you from everyone, you are truly thorough and responsive!

[Saga Ruby]

Jack, many thanks for writing this most marvelous travel diary. The elements of your writing are as layered as a croissant - delectable, fresh, insightful, amusing, and touching.

 

I would like to take this opportunity to echo your sentiments about Arab hospitality, especially the barbershop in Salalah. As a single white woman traveling alone, I didn’t know what to expect on our Nautica repo from Istanbul to Singapore last year. I am always a solo traveler, never took a group tour off the ship, so I was on my own with admittedly a bit of trepidation for Islamic countries.

 

But the Turks in Istanbul, at all levels, were so very accommodating and truly happy to welcome me, give me directions, assist me. I had a young driver for 5 days in Istanbul who was leaving shortly to enter military service. Although Mehmet spoke very little English, he understood what I was saying, just couldn’t reply very well. We were able to make a connection and his openness to driving a single woman all over both sides of the Bosporus encouraged me about the other Arab countries on our Nautica itinerary. With the wonderful Turkish people in mind, I sailed off on Nautica and looked forward to the adventures ahead.

 

When I walked down the gangway in Muscat, Oman, I didn’t know what to expect from the Arab men. I was dressed properly for a Muslim country in a long, cotton broomstick skirt and long-sleeved blouse, but my head was not covered. I felt silent approval from the Arabic men - mostly taxi drivers and hotel staff - and had a marvelous day in Muscat which I have discussed in another Oceania thread.

 

I would like to take this occasion to relate that I left the States with a mental chip on my shoulder toward Muslims because I am tired of being regarded as "The Great Satan." However, as a single woman, 100% of the time I was welcomed in Arabic countries with true hospitality and a "hands across the borders" attitude. I was wrong about the believers of Islam. As an Egyptian businessman told me at dinner in Luxor, 95% of Muslims are good people, 3% are not believers, and the remainder are fanatics.

I encourage everyone reading Jack’s thread to discover Arabic lands with an open heart, to enjoy their fine hospitality, and to learn the joys of travel in Muslim countries.

 

An editorial comment - for my 25-day cruise, I carried two mystery novels, copies of Smithsonian, and bought English-language newspapers along the way in Muscat and Phuket. The Nautica concierge, Bruno, and I had a deal that I would put the books and newspapers in his chair and he would pass them along to crew members. The superb Library onboard supplemented any reading needs I had, but the reading materials I left with Bruno seemed to be warmly welcomed by the crew. I would encourage other passengers to consider doing the same.

 

One day I hope to find a bound copy of "Travels with Jack" in The Library of all Oceania’s ships.

 

Ruby

[meow!]

While I remember, I have a little suggestion: perhaps on such a long cruise, Oceania can provide those interested on board a "bridge tour". Silversea has bridge tours for most voyages. I understand that the current Oceania ships have twice the number of passengers as Silversea. However, for a 35 day voyage, at no cost to the cruise line and just a little extra work, organizing a bridge tour should not be too much to ask for. After spending so many days together on the ship, "security risks" for letting passengers see the bridge should be minimal, especially on those long sea days. Perhaps Jack and his parents can have a picture taken with the captain, the hotel director, the chef and whoever is important to him on the bridge and post it here later. (That can be a nice addition if Jack is going to compile this thread into a booklet some day.)

 

I remember in April, 2001, on our return flight from Sydney, the purser was so kind as to invite the male and female cats (the two of us) into the cockpit and took our picture with the captain and co-pilot. That was the first and probably last time we were in an aeroplane cockpit. Five months later, there was the 9-11 tragedy, and such opportunities became a thing of the past! That picture has been a well treasured souvenir for us.

[Aussie Gal]

Jack,

 

Thanks so much for finding out for me all the info re Agra. We will certainly book on line as soon as the excursion is released.

 

We have travelled extensively through Asia going back to the 70's and know not to eat anything that has been washed eg salads, or anything that you cannot peel or cook and only to drink water that comes out of bottles with a special top so that they have not been refilled.

 

We took our children away at an early age and were particularly careful with them so the consequence is that we have never been ill in any third world country.

 

I have now printed out Episode 13 of your travels and have enjoyed each and every one. Please pass my compliments on to your Ann for a woman's perspective of Oman.

 

Jennie

[KIWP]

NO "O" please don't use the new ships on this routing. Please use them in the Caribbean, Trans-Canal and the Med. Please leave this itin on the Nautica. We've done it and it is ideal (but I have to admit that we always take PH cabins).

 

However I would drop Salalah and opt for Muscat, or other ports in the area; or add 1 more day in Jordan and perhaps 2 more in Egypt when going to Port Said.

[KIWP]

NO "O" please don't use the new ships on this routing. Please use them in the Caribbean, Trans-Canal and the Med. Please leave this itin on the Nautica. We've done it and it is ideal (but I have to admit that we always take PH cabins).

 

However I would drop Salalah and opt for Muscat, or other ports in the area; or add 1 more day in Jordan and perhaps 2 more in Egypt when going to Port Said.:)

[JackfromWA]

A FEW RESPONSES:

 

KIWP, Jerry Blaine is playing the piano.

 

LAHORE, I didn’t hear of anyone leaving Salalah, but assuming you have plenty to time to return to the ship I would do it. I am sure you would enjoy something unique by leaving Salalah for the fishing village your friend recommended.

 

MAGICNELLY, a short cabana review is part of the entry below. Something I forgot to mention is the closest bathroom to the cabanas is two decks below on Deck Nine.

 

SAGA RUBY, I loved reading your post and I was pleased to learn my impressions in Oman weren’t unique to me. I do envy that you were able to visit Muscat; uniformly I have been told it is a better tourist port than Salalah.

 

MEOW! I remember the Silverseas bridge tours. In years past I understand some small lines maintained an open bridge policy. I also toured the Silver Winds engine room. It was immaculate. The bridge of a ship is special, especially at night when the glow of the instruments panels and radar dimly light the helm and navigation stations, and the sea appears dark and mysterious through the bridge window.

 

AUSSIE GAL, I passed your comments on to my mom, and she was delighted someone appreciated her perspective as a woman in Salalah.

 

FOUR MORE SEA DAYS

 

Today marks the end of four wonderful days at sea. Other than one night the first week, the seas have been calm and pleasant every day since leaving Hong Kong. Though the weather has been hot (over 90) and humid at times, we have only had one rainy sea day. Every port day has been sunny, warm and dry—today is a balmy 80 degrees—the light breeze makes it feel cooler—and shortly I’ll head to my cabana, put on my ipod and gaze across the sea and cloudless sky.

 

Tomorrow four hundred passengers disembark for an overnight shore excursion to Luxor. My parents and I are part of the group, and we are excited to finally see the cradle of human civilization firsthand. The day after we return from Luxor we arrive in Aqaba, Jordan, the gateway to Petra and Wadi Rum. My parents and I are taking the ship tour, which includes Petra, Wadi Rum and a Bedouin dinner with belly dancing in the desert. After the laziness of four sea days filled with Bridge, reading, shows, meals, naps, sun bathing, Team Trivia and conversation, the next three days almost sound like work—but seeing the unequaled sights of Egypt and Jordan for the first time are something I’ll remember long after the memories of these sea days has faded.

 

Today at Bridge class I was fortunate enough to play with three very experienced ladies, including Ambassador Tallboy’s wife Margaret. If I were casting a film with a role for a British Ambassador’s wife, Margaret would be the perfect choice. Her upper-class accent, impeccable manners and slight eccentricities make her delightful to converse and play games with. All three women generously encouraged me to play every hand to further my Bridge education, whether it was my turn or not, so I exchanged seats after each Bridge auction to play out the winning hand. After we finished all three encouraged me to keep playing and enthusiastically assured me I have a future in Bridge. Between Jean’s excellent tutelage, and a natural affinity for counting, structure, rules (I like knowing what the rules are as I can’t bend them until I know them) and competition, I hope to find a way to continue playing at home. I never anticipated learning a new skill onboard Nautica, but attending every beginners class is paying off, and I am having fun with an exciting new card game. Bridge makes my friendly poker games look easy—it reminds me of the difference between snorkeling and scuba diving.

 

The mood on the ship is enthusiastic for our three exciting ports-of-call, but interspersed with the excitement are conversations about airline routing home, baggage allowances and shipboard account balances. Earlier today I saw one woman with a calculator borrowed from the purser’s desk sitting in the reception lobby adding up, and then disputing, the total of her fifteen or twenty page stateroom bill. I saw another man angrily and rudely refuse to sign something at the reception desk. I don’t know what the circumstances were, or if his refusal to sign was valid, regardless his rude, angry behavior was inexcusable and his poor wife or traveling companion was clearly mortified. Some nerves are a little frayed as the reality and anxiety of going home sets in—pretty soon it will be midnight-for-Cinderella; the chariots turn to pumpkins, the ball gown turns to rags, and my piping hot savory French Onion soup in the cabin turns to Lipton Cup-Of-Noodle soup at home, and the closest I get to eating Crème Brule is a refrigerated Jell-O pudding. My desire to see Ty pulls me toward home, but I will sorely miss the artificial luxurious world as I am happily ensconced in on Nautica.

 

A reader asked me to comment about the cabanas. To be brutally honest I have mixed feelings. Initially, I thought the cabana was the wisest choice I made. Especially since neither my mom, dad or I have a veranda. I envisioned using the cabana daily, enjoying attentive service, receiving chair massages, and watching the world sail by from my birds-eye-view. On this itinerary, it has been so hot and humid that I have only used the cabana a fraction of the time I hoped to, and the short chair massages included are only offered on port days, and of course on port days I am off the ship. It doesn’t help that it is hard to type in the cabana due to the glare of the sun reflecting off my laptop screen, so despite the fact I am typing this from Nautica’s Saint Bart’s cabana (each of the eight cabanas has an exotic name) nestled high atop Deck Eleven, in general I don’t write here. Yesterday was very hot, about 95 degrees, and after ten minutes I left the cabana for the air-conditioned comfort of my cabin. Later in the afternoon, my parents came to the cabana, and as the sunset and temperature fell, they lay on their Balinese daybed for two and loved watching the ocean and sky at sundown and nightfall. “It was the best time we had in the cabana the entire cruise,” my mom said later that night at dinner. In hindsight I would probably take the cabana again since between my parents and I we have two cabins without verandahs, and we all use the cabana as a private spot to enjoy being outside. If I were here with Ty I would probably rather have a veranda. I think I would use it more often than the cabana as the balcony is connected to the stateroom—and I could easily sit on it at night or as I drink my room service delivered strong morning cappuccino. On an itinerary with more moderate climates, or if you really enjoy heat, the cabana has its benefits—in fact as I just typed this sentence the attentive, young, attractive Indonesian deck steward brought me a plate of fruit skewers. I told him I didn’t need anything, but he has been watching me for almost a month and knew if he brought fresh pineapple, watermelon, cantaloupe and strawberries accompanied by a tart berry sauce for dipping, that I would eat at least some of it. The service on this ship is like that across the board—desires are anticipated—and after four weeks the crew has learned my tastes.

 

Last night’s entertainment was a fantastically funny variety show. In a sense it was a “leftovers” show since each act was comprised of previously seen performers, but the acts and arrangements were so enjoyable, in many cases last nights “leftovers” were tastier than the original meal. Tonight, for one night only, we are being treated to an original play written by Ray Solaire entitled ‘Last Tango in Little Grimly: A Sex Comedy in Four Short Acts.’ The Nautica Lounge has been closed much of the day for rehearsals, and if Ray’s original play is as good as his original Olde English Country Faire held a few days ago, we are in for a treat. The fair was held for an hour in the late afternoon and hundreds of passengers turned out. Scattered about the Pool Deck were twelve or fifteen stands, everything from fishing (held in the Jacuzzi of course) to darts. Several of the events involved getting coated with whipped cream or flour and I saw lots of crew and guests laughing, pointing, taking photos and having a rollicking good time despite the heat and overcrowded pool deck—to a small degree the fair was a victim of its own success. Each passenger received ten Nautica dollars to play the games—each game had a small, usually one-dollar entry fee—and prizes were awarded to the guest who won the most money. The winner earned $124, Second Place earned $110, Third Place earned $104 and my mother earned $99. She did extremely well!

 

A hallmark of a trip of this length on Nautica is the innovative entertainment. It seems the longer I am aboard the more interesting the entertainment gets—whether it is actually improving or I am more easily amused is an open question—but rather than being bored by the sea days I am enjoying them more than ever. The past four sea days flew by, and I am sad that the long stream of days at sea is behind us now.

 

We have had six or seven time changes on this itinerary. There would have been less, but when we left Saigon we had to move an hour forward for Singapore time. All the other time changes we have turned our watches and clocks back, so we have had at least seven twenty-five hour days, which is very pleasant for sleeping in. For some bizarre reason the time change to India time was thirty minutes rather than an hour, so the day we left India we set the time back one hour, and the next day we set the time back an additional thirty minutes. Apparently last year the ship attempted to set the clock back a half hour at midday, but the change was so confusing this year we had two time changes on consecutive nights. I don’t know why we couldn’t just go back ninety minutes, but I heard that was too confusing for some passengers. In any case, for one day we were on a unique “Nautica Time Zone” as according to my Apple Macbook Pro no known time zone in the world matched ours.

 

I am a little stressed about finding enough time to write about Egypt and Petra—there is so much to see, and I anticipate so much to write about there, that between my Bridge play, quality time with my parents, meals, Team Trivia and social dinners not much free time will be left for writing—not if I want to sleep anyway—but I am sure it will work out. Throughout each day the ship continuously broadcasts Cinthya’s shore excursion lectures, thank goodness they do or I wouldn’t have learned anything about the specific tours I am taking as I have been busy every time her live lectures are held. I love waking up in my cabin, wearing my Oceania bathrobe, drinking a hot cappuccino and catching up on the port lectures over the stateroom TV set.

 

Last night was probably my final meal at Toscana. Over the course of this trip I managed to sample each pasta on their extensive menu. My favorite is the Fettuccini Carbonara; it’s as good as any I’ve ever had. All the pastas, entrees and appetizers are excellent there. My only complaint is their portions are often too large, unlike the Grand Dining Room, and it is challenging to even make a half-hearted effort to eat lightly.

 

All in all, as my mother said this is probably the best cruise we have ever taken. In fact, I know it is the best cruise I have ever taken—the itinerary alone assured that—but more than the destinations the level of genuine, friendly, competent service tailored to my likes and dislikes, the superb cuisine, the surprisingly enjoyable entertainment and the educational opportunities in the form of Bridge classes and enrichment lectures and most importantly spending 35 relaxed, placid, unhurried days with my parents has made this my best cruise. I would happily take a self-serve car ferry to see Luxor, Petra and Cairo, but having the luxury of one of the best cruise ships in the world escorting me to the three upcoming exotic locations is incredibly exciting, and arouses feelings of deep gratitude for this unique opportunity.

 

I overheard someone on the ship talking about reading some of these posts. It seems word is getting around that a passenger is posting on Cruise Critic about this journey. It is strange to hear people talk about what they read and they don’t know I am the author. It has been an honor and privilege to share my thoughts, observations and feelings with each of you, and the encouragement so many of you have generously given me to pursue writing is one of the memories that will always stay with me—a part of me has always wanted to write, but like so many things I have never done, I doubted my ability to do it. Knowing that I have successfully shared some of this cruise-of-a-lifetime experience with so many of you, with just the help of my keyboard and the power of the internet, has far exceeded anything I expected when I began this simple thread. Although I look forward to finishing—every story needs an ending—it won’t be just Nautica I miss when I get back home; it will be the time I have spent in all your living rooms, kitchens, bedrooms and computer screens as we shared the opportunity of virtually traveling together in this unique 21st style. Just as you imagine me on the ship and ports-of-call, I imagine you reading this at home, and somewhere in between I like to believe we make a connection.

 

Thanks everyone for reading, and a special thanks to those readers who have taken the time to interact through the message board or privately e-mailed with your kind thoughts for Ty’s good health (still no news yet) and warm encouragement to keep writing. Nothing motivates my writing more than knowing you want to read it.

 

Next stop Luxor.

[tak2]

Hi Jack and Hi Everyone:

.......I understand your point of ..."if money were no object"... But that is why Oceania is so popular, you just can't beat the COMBINATION of high quality (cuisine, service, ship decor etc) and reasonable prices........

 

FDR

 

Just a short response to KIWP: Not everyone can afford a PH cabin , and even if many can, there are only 62 cabins of PH or larger size. To make this wonderful itinerary available to more people and in a more spacious stateroom for the longest cruise O offers, I think it fits in the philosophy of what FDR has stated in an earlier post.