SD II: May 23 - June 5, 2010

[frequent traveler]

pjs are monogrammed - and just our first names on it. One of these days we will think ahead far enough to request FT and ZQ Vol on them.

 

DJ, I will see if some reminders will get a sunset or two photo up here.

 

Just cleaned out the work e-mail on the Crackberry- amazing that Verizon has worked all the time here. We're sailing into Kusadasi and ZQ Vol has gone top side. looks like we are going to have another beautiful day. Several of the crew members have mentioned the bad weather they had for the voyage before us and how this one is so much better. Jaime and his fiance Elena (works at the concierge desk) enjoyed a motorbike ride yesterday on Mykonos. Unfortunately, his and her contract time off the ship don't match. He's leaving next week with us.

 

We heard last night from Zoltan that Overwurked was in route to Istanbul and should be there or almost there by now. Looking forward to seeing her and the rest of the new arrivals on Saturday (keep forgetting its not a Sunday change this time).

 

more later -

 

FT

[DisneyJen]

Now you have DJ's DH thinking that he might have a crackberry signal on the crossing:p

 

Why don't you see if you can get your CC name on the PJs for next week? If I remember correctly it is done right on the ship by one of the housekeepers.

 

Please ask zqvol to post a photo or two! Inquiring minds need to see:D

 

Glad the weather is cooperating. Sounds like the seas are nothing like we had in the Caribbean in March '09.

 

Did you have your CC party yet? How did it go?

[frequent traveler]

just a quick note before cleaning up for cocktails and dinner -

crackberry needs a signal to work - and since we are at an island every day, duh - isn't that a bit different from the middle of the ocean?

 

We've been docked next to a Windstar ship all day - interesting to compare deck plans this morning.

 

don't think CC party is going to happen. Despite best intentions, parties spend most of the days - including pre dinner hours off ship. Its just too hectic in the Med.

 

all kinds of details about today - what a great day -- exhausting. My feet were greatful for another Minty Foot Massage after Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary, the Church of St. John, the Temple of Artemis and other assorted stops (didn't buy a rug but met a seller who's married to a NC Greek from Asheville and offered a wholesale price and gave us a bottle of Turkish wine)

 

But Jen - Osso bucco is on the menu for tonight. Another al fresco dinner. And is looks like cocktail hour will have a Mexican theme. Saw the bottle of tequila and sombrero going on the table as I left the pool area. Stay tuned -- you have to hear about the brothel across from the library.

 

FT

[Jim Avery]

Brothel? Did you say brothel? Talk about your full service cruise line! Is it also all inclusive or more like the spa?

[frequent traveler]

Jim, where is your mind :eek:-- the brothel is across from the magnificent library at Ephesus;) Just down the street from the Terrace Houses in the "nice part" of town.

 

P.S. are you sure that they will allow you on that "other" cruise line?

[CDreamer]

Hi FT... Vandrefalk's friend CDreamer here. :)

 

Just chiming in here to say how much Mr. CDreamer and I are enjoying your "live" posts from the ship!

 

We're looking forward to our 5th SD cruise next month and your updates have not only been helpful but also a lot of fun to read.

 

We were in Greece last year (on our own) and loved it, so are really looking forward to going back - this time on SD - and visiting some new places this time.

 

As for the sunsets there.... you are so right - they ARE really spectacular!!

 

Hope you continue to have a wonderful time on your trip (how can you not on SD?!), and please know that your posts are so appreciated, even by those of us who don't always post here that often.

 

CDreamer

[DisneyJen]

just a quick note before cleaning up for cocktails and dinner -

crackberry needs a signal to work - and since we are at an island every day, duh - isn't that a bit different from the middle of the ocean?

 

We've been docked next to a Windstar ship all day - interesting to compare deck plans this morning.

 

don't think CC party is going to happen. Despite best intentions, parties spend most of the days - including pre dinner hours off ship. Its just too hectic in the Med.

 

all kinds of details about today - what a great day -- exhausting. My feet were greatful for another Minty Foot Massage after Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary, the Church of St. John, the Temple of Artemis and other assorted stops (didn't buy a rug but met a seller who's married to a NC Greek from Asheville and offered a wholesale price and gave us a bottle of Turkish wine)

 

But Jen - Osso bucco is on the menu for tonight. Another al fresco dinner. And is looks like cocktail hour will have a Mexican theme. Saw the bottle of tequila and sombrero going on the table as I left the pool area. Stay tuned -- you have to hear about the brothel across from the library.

 

FT

 

FT ... it is a running joke in our house about there being no land

(including islands) involved with the crossing. I maybe blonde ... ;)

 

Osso bucco ... yummy!! Al fresco makes it even yummier:D

 

A brothel across from the library? Inquiring minds need to know!!

[Jim Avery]

Sorry to take so long but some of us have to work sometimes.:D Oh, thaaaat brothel. Across from that library. You made it sound like SeaDream had come up with a more profitable use of the Admiral's Suite.:eek: Glad you are having such a good time. keep those reports coming.

Jim.

[Jim Avery]

As far as that "other cruise line", there has been some talk about a background check. Also, we are traveling with Ganttc and company so it is a tossup if they are going to let the Blue Boat Group through their security.:eek:

J.

[frequent traveler]

Hi FT... Vandrefalk's friend CDreamer here. :)

 

Just chiming in here to say how much Mr. CDreamer and I are enjoying your "live" posts from the ship!

 

 

Hope you continue to have a wonderful time on your trip (how can you not on SD?!), and please know that your posts are so appreciated, even by those of us who don't always post here that often.

 

CDreamer

 

We are having a wonderfull time and thanks so much.

 

This is going to be a long one . . . so sit back and hope you have a nice drink. . . I've had a few. Didn't start until dinner, but the never empty glass of champagne of course, didn't stay empty, thanks to Sean, Chris, Peter, Colin, Zoltan, Frank, Clint and who knows who else served us tonight. :D

 

First, have to say, what a treat to watch the Captain pull right up to the dock in Kusadasi (the first s in Kusadasi is pronounced "SH" by the way). Our bridge looked straight across to the Windstar bridge. Our captain was standing outside in his uniform white. their captain was standing outside in his uniform whites. I wondered if a duel was about to occur - but nothing happened! By the way Windstar's deck chairs are hum hum . .. plastic and their pool could be our jacuzzi .. . . it's that small, in case you are interested.

 

Heard great things today about the SD's tour guides at Ephesus - apparently he made all the SD guests sit on the ancient public toilets before they knew what they were sitting on (haven't functioned for thousands of years). We had our own guide who added a stop beyond those on the SD tour - St. John's Basilica. I would definitely recommend going there. In addition to the tomb of St. John and the original castle settlement of Ephesus, there is a bias map that shows all the four settlements of Ephesus and how the river silt filled in the ocean and changed the geography of the region. Plus many of the columns of the Artemis Temple (one of the 8th wonders of the ancient world) have been relocated and reused there.

 

Definitely recommend excursions going to the House of the Virgin Mary - I never considered myself particularly devout, but I got chills standing before the altar - even surrounded by the hordes of Italian tourists. And you know you will go to Ephesus - but get there as soon as you can in the morning. Its unbelievable. And I wasn't kidding in an earlier post - the brothel is across the street from the library - a magnificent structure. Two ampitheatres - one for the masses (uncovered - looks like Neyland Stadium in Knoxville before they closed in the South end) and one for the elite - with a roof. With marble streets, shopping malls, and wholesales centers (think Costco for the Romans), public bathhouses based on social standing you could spend weeks here and not see everything.

 

(By the way - just found card on the bed that said as "guests in transit" we are entitled to a 2nd pair of PJ's and what would we like them embroidered with -- limited to 10 letters each. - So there will be a ZQ Vol and F Traveler running around next week).

 

After finishing our historic hiking - and being accosted by numberous vendors at each site, we had a lovely lunch at a little restaurant, meatballs and salad. Very familiar to ZQ Vol whose grandmother was born in Istanbul - oops I mean Constantinople. During which we watched a procession of young people carrying beer, waving flags, and blowing musical instruments march down the street. Our guide said they were celebrating a wedding to occur in the next couple of days. What was interesting was a boy of ten or twelve was carrying two beers, one in each hand. Wouldn't have thought that in Turkey.

 

Went to a rug "co-op" - Not the one the people on the SD tour went to at the end of their tour . No pressure to buy. Just very interesting explanation of the process and how the rugs are made. How patterns are used by the family, how long a rug can take (3 yrs for a large one), cotton v. wool v. silk, etc. Did you know a large silk rug can cost $65,000. They are gorgeous works of art. 3M shared pictures of his successful rug trip -- expect to see and hear details here when he gets back home.

 

On to dinner tonight. Loved the beef carpacchio, tomato and mozzarella salad, and shrimp and risotto. Talked our friend Francisco from Spain into having a Mrs. Toybar moment - two desserts. Simply adore Peter, Jamie and Sean arranging for me to have a SD special chocolate dessert tonight even though it wasn't on the menu. Since we are dining out doors, Chef Joss and his talented team have to change up the menu standards - for example - no souflles since day one, since not enough ovens available on Deck 5 as opposed to when the dining room is used. While I only ordered one dessert, since Francisco and ZQ Vol each ordered two and the kitchen decided to send out an extra of my dessert, our table looked like we were feeding a small army. Cameras were flashing and the Australian ladies at the table next to us didn't stop laughing for at least 10 minutes. Now that we are all in sugar high . . . no dessert until at least Sunday . . . .unless its chocolate.

 

 

Tomorrow is the degustation menu. Heard there have been some changes in the dishes.

 

Tomorrow is also Mytilini, Lesvos - we are only there until 12:30 when we set sail for Istanbul. No stop this week or next in Molyvos - apparently, we can't clear customs or other international security/waters to sail for Turkey and don't have the time to come back to Mytilini. So that was an error in the published itinerary.

 

by the way - found the gym this morning. Don't know when it happened but there's a big piece of weight equpment in there that's different from the machine of a couple of years ago. Wouldn't dare to try to use it. Maybe on the fall crossing.

 

skipping kareoke tonight. someone was murdering piano man when I came down from dinner. Tomorrow we actually have half an "at sea' day -- they've promised a SD market in the salon from 2 to 4 or so - boutique goods, as well as goodies from the kitchen and spa. At the cocktail party tonight, Daniel (the Activities manager) was quite huffy at having lost the long drive golf competiton by one yard to a guest but awarded certificates for that and the closest to the pin putting competion also. Tomorrow Amy is leading a walk and hike - who says life at sea is boring -- not on SD II.

 

Will be sailing through the Dardenelles tomorrow evening.

 

FT

 

and tonight's gift was the little box of mints.

[jbcjtc]

Love your posts! Glad you all are having a wonderful time!

[swassbac]

Realized I hadn’t mentioned a few things.

 

First – id cards now have a “new and improved” case – instead of the cheap black plastic, its now a beige canvas/trimmed with navy blue card holder. Matches the folder the travel documents come in.

 

As for the “gifts” left in your cabin at night, first night was pajamas as usual. Second night was the rose in a vase. Third night however was something new - along with usual sales brochure – a CD entitled “Dream” with music from artists such as Marc Broussard, Samantha James, and Bossa Nostra. Tonight was the standard coated strawberries – however these were in white chocolate, not the dark chocolate. Hopefully, ZQ Vol will enjoy as I can’t.

 

I know you faithful readers – all four of you – will get tired of hearing this, but tonight’s sunset was the best – really and truly the most fantastic and when ZQ Vol posts pictures, you will see (he only took more than 500 today). We had the primo table again tonight (I’m sure others thought their table was also the best – there was no bad view). Sushi was served at the cocktail reception. For dinner, appetizer was foi gras. ZQ Vol had the vol de vent. I had the vegetable soup and then instead of an entrée, I had the lettuce with goat cheese salad (of course the kitchen could not leave as a salad course size – but had to make as an entre portion –so much for being good). ZQ Vol had the halibut with white asparagus. Jose is the new pastry chef and loves to couple chocolate desserts with nuts. However, he made a special exception tonight and Peter and Jaime arranged for me to have the chocolate tart without the nut crust – it was delicious. No petit fours for me tonight.

 

Tonight is an Ellen Page concert. Tomorrow night – is Kareoke night. Apparently disco went over very well. We have a long day at Ephesus – have hired our own guide – trying to pack more in than the SD tours will do. Will let you know how it works out. Rough seas tonight – all of 1 meter! After last year in the Caribbean, this is wonderful.

 

Heard from 3M also that the guided tour to Delos was fantastic – guides here have to go to a 3 yr college course before deciding what region they want to specialize in. Got interesting details about the anatomically correct statutes in front of the museum which the Christians destroyed in the name of editorial correctness hundreds of years ago. Wow, thought Political Correctness was unique to the US 20th and 21st century (along with the Victorians).

 

we're enroute to Kusadasi and ephesus - have a great day. Is anyone out there - it gets pretty boring just posting day after day with no interaction.

 

FT

 

Yes - we are out here and enjoying your posts even though you appear to be UT fans - at least it's an SEC school. We Gators are in Istanbul now and will be joining you on Saturday.

[frequent traveler]

Yes - we are out here and enjoying your posts even though you appear to be UT fans - at least it's an SEC school. We Gators are in Istanbul now and will be joining you on Saturday.

 

 

There are some very nice Bama fans on board - they have the cabin next to us. My brother is a Gator and I have family in Orlando . .. We tend to be "tolerant" UT fans - don't sing Rocky Top (why would we, since we haven't won the big one in football since the late 90's . . . ). Looking foward to meeting you on Saturday. Is that tomorrow? It must be since today is Lesbos - that means tomorrow is Istanbul.

 

FT

[Jim Avery]

There are some very nice Bama fans on board - they have the cabin next to us. My brother is a Gator and I have family in Orlando . .. We tend to be "tolerant" UT fans - don't sing Rocky Top (why would we, since we haven't won the big one in football since the late 90's . . . ). Looking foward to meeting you on Saturday. Is that tomorrow? It must be since today is Lesbos - that means tomorrow is Istanbul.

 

FT

 

You have sailed with very nice Bama fans before.:D

J & L.

[frequent traveler]

You have sailed with very nice Bama fans before.:D

J & L.

We think Lois is one of the nicest Bama fans we've ever met.;)

 

now on to the news . .. .

 

Today is a mixed day – first it was a great day at port and at sea – but it’s also sad as we are preparing to bid adieu to some new friends who must disembark in Istanbul. Got a rude shock this morning when we opened our door and saw our neighbors' suitcases lined up outside their cabins. . .a reminder that disembarkation is looming for some, but not for us . . . at least not this week. . . now next week, I’ll be crying a different story.

 

Sailing into Mytilene was quite beautiful this morning. Another day with calm seas and I really enjoyed the precise manoevering of the yacht to the dock – around the various small craft that came a lot closer than we are used to seeing in the US and Caribbean. Sat down to breakfast and before I could unfold my napkin, Sean had delivered a cappuccino to the table for me and fresh oj for ZQ Vol. I’ve skipped breakfast a couple times this week, so I might have missed the eggs benedict. Today’s special – enjoyed by a new friend from Scottsdale, Arizona was a waffle with strawberries and cream. Being good, he substituted yogurt for the cream.

 

Mytilene is a “real” Greek town – not a tourist city. Beware the motor scooters. There is no such thing as pedestrian rights in this city. However, we can’t wait to return in a couple of days and finish exploring. ZQ Vol visited the ouzo factory! I went for a walk by the harbor and found the most beautiful coffee shop/restaurant – 25 ft ceilings, hardwood floors and columns, magnificent furniture, but didn’t have time to stop. Had to be back for Amy’s walk – to the Greek Statute of Liberty, and two archeological museums and the “castle”.. DO NOT MISS THIS EXCURSION. Do it on your own if you don’t like groups (I just walked ahead to get a bit aerobic).

 

The two museums are interesting. Saw a couple of gold leaf diadems that were unbelievable. Hadn’t seen anything like that in Athens or at other stops. Didn’t realize how important Lesvos was in the history of the Ottomon/Greek empires and how many wars were fought by the citizens. But the Castle – which only costs 2 Euros for admittance if you go on your own, is one of the most under rated attractions to date. Covering 6 hectares – with beautiful red poppies, lavender, fig and olive trees, it has a cistern and dungeon, an armory and gunpowder storage, 3 gates with original entrances, a Byzantine seminary and several other ruins. Its stunning. (by the way, I don’t have a clue how big 6 hectares is – but I had to rush to go through it all in just over an hour to make it back to the ship in time for departure – and we were late due to two guests not returning in time) So no, the ship doesn’t leave you if you get lost for 15 minutes – or at least we didn’t today.

 

Currently sailing to Istanbul. Had a great lunch – had two soups, the great tomato basil along with a fish soup. Then had to have a small ceasar – thank you Louie for making the chef keep it small, and a half order of the four cheese pasta, which I am proud to say, I only had a few bites. It was wonderful – but more than a few bites and clothes would be even snugger . . . and with another week to go, can’t afford a new wardrobe to go home. Did miss the Sea Dream Market Day – was lounging pool side, so will try to fish out details this pm – and have a massage before dinner. Will be sailing through the Dardenelles during daylight – at least the early part. Have a table outside since ZQ Vol’s grandfather was from this region. Will try to post an update after dinner. So much to do and so little time. Where does it go?

 

 

Just realized its Memorial Day weekend – hope everyone has a great one.

 

FT

[Jim Avery]

"We think Lois is one of the nicest Bama fans we've ever met."

 

You are so bad.:eek: But so good at taking us along vicariously. Another great report. I can almost taste the food and am starving. Your reports reminded us of the difference in the Med over the Caribbean. Most days are very shore intensive with much walking. In the Caribbean, it is mostly walking from the beach bar to the ocean for a dip. Both fun but ancient Europe is fascinating. It has really been a fast week. I can only imagine how happy you are to be staying aboard. Looking forward to another good week. By the way, 6 hectares = 14.83 acres.:D Roll Tide.

Jim.

[rolltide1]

Hello FT: I continue to enjoy your descriptive posts, and please keep them coming! From the itinerary, it looks like SDI and SDII will be together next week in Santorini. I imagine that will be quite a beautiful sight. Along with everyone else, I can't wait to see the photos coming from this trip!

[Jim Avery]

Ellen,

Love your beautiful shot of sunset at St. Barths.

Jim.

[frequent traveler]

" I can almost taste the food and am starving.

 

Get ready to really starve Jim when you read about dinner tonight!:D

 

All I can say is Earl Grey Souffle. :D Chef Joss has done it again. Another twist on the menu. Great finish to a wonderful menu but first . . . .

 

Sailing through the Dardenelles at sunset was beautiful. Being on the dividing line between Europe and Asia and seeing the amazing World War I monuments is another bucket list moment. Then watching the full moon rising – orange and glowing on the waves. I keep nagging ZQ Vol about pictures .. . but you see how much success I’ve had so far. . . he keeps muttering something about not enough memory … whatever that means.

 

I can’t thank Jaime and Peter enough for the table tonight. With Zoltan pouring the Turkey champagne (really the house Germaine label) and Jasper assisting, it was a perfect evening. We had one last dinner with our new friend Francisco from Spain and worked our way through the tasting menu. Lovely caviar in egg surprise started. ZQ Vol is not a caviar fan – and lo and behold he got something special – an artichocke guacamole. So delicious he would have licked the plate had we not been in public. Then on to rare tuna and scallop appetizer, pumpkin bisque (we saw the pumpkin delivered today), peach champagne sorbet (not my favorite – just because I don’t like peach but my two dinner companions absorbed every drop); main course of either sea bass or lamb (three cuts – mine was still baaing and delicious), a cheese course – topped with honey on nut bread; the unbelievably fantastic Earl Grey Souffle and finally, petit fours. And Chef Josselyn came by our table. What a magical night. Chef indicated he had not been able to get mussels for the famous SD Lunch last week but would try next week. My fingers are crossed.;)

 

Disembarking at 8:30 tomorrow for our mad dash around Istanbul (oops, I mean Constantinople – if we can avoid the Formula 1 crowd). Back tomorrow evening to start our return voyage and meet our fellow travelers, including Overwurked.

 

FT

[Jim Avery]

Ok FT, your mission, if you decide to accept it, is get the Artichoke Guacamole recipe! You are killin us here!:D

[frequent traveler]

Ok FT, your mission, if you decide to accept it, is get the Artichoke Guacamole recipe! You are killin us here!:D

 

I will do my darndest - by the way, I got in the pool today. Since it was filled with sea water, I assume this will count as getting in the Med? Jeepers, it was not the same as Miami in August. :eek:

 

FT

[Reunionmama]

*emerging from lurking*

 

Doing the same itinerary in June on SD1. Can you talk more about why Amy's walk on Mytilene is not to be missed?

[rolltide1]

Ellen,

Love your beautiful shot of sunset at St. Barths.

Jim.

Thank you, Jim...you can sort of see Mr. RollTide just in front of the small boat, waving. You have, I noticed a while back, a "dueling camera" shot of the exact same moment that same day at sunset. Unforgetable.

[Archipelago]

Here is another person enjoying reading your posts !!!:D Thanks for sharing !!!!!!

[frequent traveler]

*emerging from lurking*

 

Doing the same itinerary in June on SD1. Can you talk more about why Amy's walk on Mytilene is not to be missed?

You mean my description of the Castle above wasn't enough?

 

Don't get me wrong, There is a separate excursion - The Pictures of Lesvos - Picasso, Matisse & Chagall, which our friends from Scottsdale went on - to a village outside the city. they enjoyed this excursion - more than they expected. Especially the baclava - which they said was like no other they had ever had before.

 

Yesterday's stop in Mytilene was a short one - only from 8:30 to 12:30 becasue of the long sail to Istanbul - so we only had a short amount of time to see a bit of the island. If you want to absorb a bit of the history - going to the Castle - whether you do it on your own or as part of Amy's walk, should not be missed. I'm a bit of gardening fan, and the vista of poppies, lavender, and other blooming plants was breathtaking - plus the view of the rest of the island was amazing. With the ruins from the Ottomon, Greek, Venetian and other rulers - and well described markers, the Castle is very interesting and beautiful historical stop. If you go with Amy - SD pays the entrance fees, total of 4 Euro, at the museums and the castle (or at least they did yesterday - hope I don't spoil this surprise). So do what I did - get off the ship at 8"30 - walk around the waterfront - visit the ouzo factory and the magnificient Greek cathedral (ZQ Vol says its the best he's seen on this trip, and believe me the man knows his Greek churchs) and meet Amy for the walk.

 

almost at Constantinople.

 

more later.

 

FT

 

p.s. I have it on very good authority that some new itineraries are being developed for 2012, both winter and summer.